Thought that this should have an update. I have been using this type of jig for just over 2 years now and I cannot fault it. I have built other jigs where the router moves from side to side on a sled but I actually found this fixed router jig to be better. I still can’t get my head around the negative comments from the naysayers but I suppose it strengthens the argument that it is impossible to educate pond life! A belated thank you for a brilliant but simple idea.
You have NO IDEA how amazing it was to find this video. After spending way too much time creating a sled (that was too small, I might add) and attempting to plane larger wood cookies. I quickly realized why peoe suggest using a jointer first. Had I found this video first, I could have saved myself a ton of frustration and time. Can't wait to try this on the rest of my slabs! THANK YOU! A MILLION TIMES, THANK YOU!😍
I’ve built my own version recently but have struggled to come up with a system to hold the workpiece (in my case guitar bodies) firmly but temporarily in place. Your hot glue method works extremely well. Genius solution! Thank you. 👍🏻🏴
I think his name is Matthias hornbrenner, something like that, he just built a $10,000 bed so you can find his channel that way but my point is, he has a video on hold fast that rotates to lock, I would look into those or just try wedges
This approach is a little different than most in that the router is fixed to the support, and the support is moved back and forth. The other DIY router-planers have the router moving freely along a slot cut in the support. Your setup has the benefit of less vibration sent to your hands, and the router stays vertical. The hot glue and not cutting on the return stroke are good tips. Thanks!
if you're going to use mdf, add some vertical pieces to your gantry to prevent any flexing or sagging. and going forward and back instead of left and right will be easier on your back and arms.
This is the best method I've seen and used. To me the control is absolute. The only thing I use to stabilize are wooden wedges instead of glue. He didn't take off a lot, but you can remove up to an eighth of an inch without losing control or decrease quality of work... any thicker depends on tool and securing to jig.
I'm using a shelf attached to my bench and a top bearing router bit, but your rig looks much better. For one, you don't have to slide my lumber through after each pass, and can also use a more suitable bit. I'll definitely make a rig like yours if I need to flatten more boards out in future.
Could I build a lower frame around the board and screw it down. This would stop left, right, forward, and backward movements. Do I need to worry about surface moving up and dow ?
Solid suggestion, and allows use of on-hand materials. I think I would make the gantry out of t-slotted aluminum extrusions, for three reasons. a) I think it would make it more rigid b) I think it would give greater visibility and control of your work. c) It could be made adjustable, so that it would be useful on more than one project. Then, I would leave a router base installed on the gantry, and just move the motor from that base to a different base when I needed it for another kind of project, or to clean up the shop. . Otherwise, very helpful for someone who had not seen such a router idea before. Very familiar to me from working with Solid Surface countertops (like Corian), and preparing undermount sink mounts... another place where this kind of jig is very helpful. I hope the comment is helpful to your other viewers.
You're taking off so little. Would it be easier to just sand or does this ensure the entire piece is perfectly level and flat (I'm a beginner woodworker)
Fair question, and this isn't a recommended procedure for most flattening needs. If you're sanding, you're only maintaining accurate flatness at the point of the sanding pad (assuming a random orbit sander). Every time you move the sander to a new section/location you introduce motion with your hand and that can add ripples and dips along the surface. The referencing frame used with the router at least introduces a stable height to ensure flat across the whole surface.
I believe that the issue with using any sort of sander is that you may not end up with a fully flat, true, even surface, whereas with the router you can. The good thing about this process when compared to hand sanding is that the moving MDF parts are both factory-flat. Because the movement of the router along the up-down axis is limited by the plane on which those two MDF parts are sliding against one another there’s no opportunity for the router to accidentally cut any deeper than the max depth that the woodworker has set the bit to. With a sander, you might get a totally smooth surface, but with no control set on your Z axis it’s very likely that you’ll end up with an uneven surface all the same. At least that how I understand the advantage of this jig compared to using only a sander. It’s possible that there’s a way to get fully true surfaces on both sides of a piece of wood using only a sander though. I think that it would need to be very good to convince me to use it over this method! But it’s probably out there.
You could use that, but we recommend a bit designed for surfacing instead. There are a wide number of choices out here, but here's on example: ballewsaw.com/whiteside-6210-1-cnc-spoilboard-surfacing.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpdjFro3c4QIVFLbACh3aqw5aEAQYBCABEgIuuPD_BwE
So-so... I think it would be much better to keep the board with angle of 90 to sides at start. This way wouldn't guarantee the correct angle after finishing.
Олександр Шкурат in this process you are simply making the top and bottom coplaner to one another. once the two sides are both parrellell and flat milling of the perimeter is done. this is evidenced by the fact that the cutting board still has all of the waste wood attached. this process gives a better overall surface and would ensure a 90 degree corner from face to side (or any angle so desired for the project). You could also use a sled on a table saw to make sure the edges are also 90 degrees to one another.
OK, let's assume that planks on both top and bottom at one side are protruding a little. So, in this case you wouldn't get 90 degrees angle. What solution can you offer for such a situation? Thank you in advance!
Олександр Шкурат I'm a little lost on your question but if I think that I addressed the squared edges question already. if you were asking about a piece of the end grain being longer so the piece does not lay flat you can shim the work initially. if it is in regard to the edges you can clean them up with a table saw later. I guess I'm lost if it's more in depth of a question than that.
Complicated? Dude, this is seriously the best, most accurate, cost effective, quickest, scale-able, safest way to co-plane two sides. You are definitely not a master woodworker if this is too complicated for you. There is a better design for the sled itself but rest assured, this is a great way to plane cutting boards all the way up to full size, live edge table tops.
![planing wide boards perfectly with electric hand planer / amazing way of planing [woodworking]](/img/n.gif)
Thought that this should have an update. I have been using this type of jig for just over 2 years now and I cannot fault it. I have built other jigs where the router moves from side to side on a sled but I actually found this fixed router jig to be better. I still can’t get my head around the negative comments from the naysayers but I suppose it strengthens the argument that it is impossible to educate pond life! A belated thank you for a brilliant but simple idea.
Thanks for posting your opinion. It is enlightening for a beginner
You have NO IDEA how amazing it was to find this video. After spending way too much time creating a sled (that was too small, I might add) and attempting to plane larger wood cookies. I quickly realized why peoe suggest using a jointer first. Had I found this video first, I could have saved myself a ton of frustration and time. Can't wait to try this on the rest of my slabs! THANK YOU! A MILLION TIMES, THANK YOU!😍
what a wonderful teacher. Thank you for this lesson. very cool. Can't wait to use this method.
I’m wondering if a router could be used to flatten a 60” round table top
I have watched alot of similar videos. This is 1 of the best. Clear instruction, step bt step. Thanks Tim!
Use double-sided turning tape and avoid the sticky mess of hot glue.
Great idea
I’ve built my own version recently but have struggled to come up with a system to hold the workpiece (in my case guitar bodies) firmly but temporarily in place. Your hot glue method works extremely well. Genius solution! Thank you. 👍🏻🏴
I think his name is Matthias hornbrenner, something like that, he just built a $10,000 bed so you can find his channel that way but my point is, he has a video on hold fast that rotates to lock, I would look into those or just try wedges
Have you tried heavy duty double sided tape? That's what I use on mine and it works great and comes away and cleans up easily
This approach is a little different than most in that the router is fixed to the support, and the support is moved back and forth. The other DIY router-planers have the router moving freely along a slot cut in the support. Your setup has the benefit of less vibration sent to your hands, and the router stays vertical.
The hot glue and not cutting on the return stroke are good tips. Thanks!
Thank you for this demo. It worked perfectly for me and solved a perplexing problem.
if you're going to use mdf, add some vertical pieces to your gantry to prevent any flexing or sagging. and going forward and back instead of left and right will be easier on your back and arms.
I will try that
I love it, so practical and simple.
I can't justify a planer right now, but I do have a router.
This will allow me to do so many new projects, thanks!
This is the best method I've seen and used. To me the control is absolute. The only thing I use to stabilize are wooden wedges instead of glue. He didn't take off a lot, but you can remove up to an eighth of an inch without losing control or decrease quality of work... any thicker depends on tool and securing to jig.
Thank you! Just what I was looking for.
I'm using a shelf attached to my bench and a top bearing router bit, but your rig looks much better. For one, you don't have to slide my lumber through after each pass, and can also use a more suitable bit. I'll definitely make a rig like yours if I need to flatten more boards out in future.
I wonder if the gantry is superior to a sled that has a hole in it. It looks like it might be easier to control.
Could I build a lower frame around the board and screw it down. This would stop left, right, forward, and backward movements. Do I need to worry about surface moving up and dow ?
Best ease router jig solution yet! Needed a simple way flattening a small table top. Thanks!
Solid suggestion, and allows use of on-hand materials.
I think I would make the gantry out of t-slotted aluminum extrusions,
for three reasons.
a) I think it would make it more rigid
b) I think it would give greater visibility and control of your work.
c) It could be made adjustable, so that it would be useful on more than one project.
Then, I would leave a router base installed on the gantry,
and just move the motor from that base to a different base
when I needed it for another kind of project, or to clean up the shop.
.
Otherwise, very helpful for someone who had not seen such a router idea before.
Very familiar to me
from working with Solid Surface countertops (like Corian),
and preparing undermount sink mounts...
another place where this kind of jig is very helpful.
I hope the comment is helpful to your other viewers.
Thank you for your teachings... I appreciate this viseo very much
Very cool! Gonna give it a go!
Very simple and good idea
Beni from Brazil
This is the best and easiest ever . I’m going to make it now
Very practical! Thank you.
What a great tip! Thanks for sharing!
What bit?
You're taking off so little. Would it be easier to just sand or does this ensure the entire piece is perfectly level and flat (I'm a beginner woodworker)
Fair question, and this isn't a recommended procedure for most flattening needs. If you're sanding, you're only maintaining accurate flatness at the point of the sanding pad (assuming a random orbit sander). Every time you move the sander to a new section/location you introduce motion with your hand and that can add ripples and dips along the surface. The referencing frame used with the router at least introduces a stable height to ensure flat across the whole surface.
Also, with end grain like that, sanding takes a looooooong time.
@@popularwoodworking what about a belt sander? would it at least be better than an orbital?
I believe that the issue with using any sort of sander is that you may not end up with a fully flat, true, even surface, whereas with the router you can.
The good thing about this process when compared to hand sanding is that the moving MDF parts are both factory-flat. Because the movement of the router along the up-down axis is limited by the plane on which those two MDF parts are sliding against one another there’s no opportunity for the router to accidentally cut any deeper than the max depth that the woodworker has set the bit to.
With a sander, you might get a totally smooth surface, but with no control set on your Z axis it’s very likely that you’ll end up with an uneven surface all the same.
At least that how I understand the advantage of this jig compared to using only a sander. It’s possible that there’s a way to get fully true surfaces on both sides of a piece of wood using only a sander though. I think that it would need to be very good to convince me to use it over this method! But it’s probably out there.
Is it just a straight type bit that you use for a dado
You could use that, but we recommend a bit designed for surfacing instead. There are a wide number of choices out here, but here's on example: ballewsaw.com/whiteside-6210-1-cnc-spoilboard-surfacing.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpdjFro3c4QIVFLbACh3aqw5aEAQYBCABEgIuuPD_BwE
Great video, thank you so much
Thank you
Very interesting that you John
P.S. I forgot to mention how your tip about adhering the work piece down with hot glue was an ABSOLUTE GAME CHANGER!
That tip with fasten piece with hot glue was actually pretty useful, thanks
back hurts watching this already
Not sure what all the hate is about. I think it's a great tip, especially for us that don't own a planer because we'd rarely need one.
Great idea. Simple and practical. Gonna try it but I hope I'm a little better with the glue gun. LOL
So-so... I think it would be much better to keep the board with angle of 90 to sides at start. This way wouldn't guarantee the correct angle after finishing.
Олександр Шкурат in this process you are simply making the top and bottom coplaner to one another. once the two sides are both parrellell and flat milling of the perimeter is done. this is evidenced by the fact that the cutting board still has all of the waste wood attached. this process gives a better overall surface and would ensure a 90 degree corner from face to side (or any angle so desired for the project). You could also use a sled on a table saw to make sure the edges are also 90 degrees to one another.
OK, let's assume that planks on both top and bottom at one side are protruding a little. So, in this case you wouldn't get 90 degrees angle. What solution can you offer for such a situation? Thank you in advance!
Олександр Шкурат I'm a little lost on your question but if I think that I addressed the squared edges question already. if you were asking about a piece of the end grain being longer so the piece does not lay flat you can shim the work initially. if it is in regard to the edges you can clean them up with a table saw later. I guess I'm lost if it's more in depth of a question than that.
Never mind. I'm sorry for bothering you. I'll think it over by myself.
@@oleksandr4685 i think when you flip it over, and do the other side, it will then make the two sides "even" or co-planar like tim said.
Thank you Sir :-)
Say goodbye to your back...
lol why? build it and place it on your workbench. problem solved. ...come on man.
The video should be called "the most complicated way to flatten"!
The simplicity escapes you? You should not be allowed to handle even the simplest of tools. You would be a danger to all.
MrBonners hahaha!! Ok you maybe right. I must to say “the WROST way to faltten!! Ah! Im a Mexican Master Woodworker. When do you want I can teach you.
Is there a better way to do this within the same price range? This option looks good to me because I don't own a planer. Am I missing anything?
Complicated? Dude, this is seriously the best, most accurate, cost effective, quickest, scale-able, safest way to co-plane two sides. You are definitely not a master woodworker if this is too complicated for you. There is a better design for the sled itself but rest assured, this is a great way to plane cutting boards all the way up to full size, live edge table tops.