Hi Edgar! Thank you for another video! Looking forward for an adjustment for a weak A string on a violin (perpetual steel core string helped a little bit). I also bought these titanium bridge inlays from Stradpet. Unfortunately, I did not found them useful: they lowered the string on the existing bridge and damaged the wound of the steel core A and E strings. I think ebony or ivory inlay is much better and is not harder to do than a parchment (if one have a small Japanise saw and a soft file).
Mr. Russ; Thank you for your fine violin making series... When it comes to string instrument response, I might suggest sampling the tap tone frequency at the string bar of the tailpiece where each string touches. Compart the tap tone of the very responsive string to those not as responsive. My experience is that all the strings with the good response have the same tap tone (on either side of the string contact area). By slight wood shape adjustments on the slow response strings (top slightly lover to lower tap tone and filing slight amounts from both sides of string bar to raise) to make all strings have equal response. {I mention this only after 22 years of violin acoustical research}.
Edgar, it looked you pushed only on the top end of the sound post. Doesn’t the bottom end need to be moved as well. I thought it was best to place it more or less perpendicular to the top and bottom plates, no? Well it certainly DOES sound noticeably better and I know that you KNOW what you’re doing, I just want to fully understand. I so much wish I could play as well as Lena Yokoyama does. Great tone, intonation is right on. I will keep working on it. Maybe in another 1000 years I will get there.
If you push just right you end up pushing the entire sound post evenly. It looks like he pushed the ruler down to kind of hit the middle part of the soundpost making it move evenly of course only a master Luthier would be able to do it and make it look so easy.
Hello Edgar, I was wondering if I could get your input on something. I'm currently making a less-than-traditional Talharpa: A 14th Century Scandinavian bowed lyre, and I had a question regarding bass-bar material, the correct grain direction, and an unrelated bridge question. I've chosen Bolivian Rosewood for the top and Maple for the body, with the intent to use Spruce for the sound post and bass-bar. Would that be a good idea or is there a rule where the bass-bar wood should match the top so that they expand/contract at the same rate? Regarding grain direction: Is it correct that looking down onto the bass-bar, the straight grain lines should be running along the length of the bar?(As opposed to along the sides of the bar) And finally, have you ever heard of someone using an entirely Ebony bridge? If so, what was the resulting tone like? Thank you so much for your time and keep up the wonderful work. I've really enjoyed discovering your channel :)
Adam, too much to answer here! Sign up to my Patreon Channel and you will get all your answers live during my monthly Q&A. Less than 4€ and you can participate tomorrow at 14:00.( Or watch it later on) Good night! Edgar
Però, visto che Vive in Italia, lavora in Italia, parla ( a quanto pare..) bene italiano, perché non fare i video in italiano? Penso che sicuramente farebbe contenti molti che la seguono ma che hanno difficoltà con la lingua inglese, e oltretutto allargherebbe ancora di più la sua clientela Italiana.
Thank you so much for sharing your skill, Edgar. I find your videos enlightening AND entertaining!
Thank you so much for you nice comment, Glen!
All the best from Cremona
Edgar
Hi Edgar!
Thank you for another video!
Looking forward for an adjustment for a weak A string on a violin (perpetual steel core string helped a little bit).
I also bought these titanium bridge inlays from Stradpet. Unfortunately, I did not found them useful: they lowered the string on the existing bridge and damaged the wound of the steel core A and E strings.
I think ebony or ivory inlay is much better and is not harder to do than a parchment (if one have a small Japanise saw and a soft file).
Thanks Lena, thanks Edgar.
The explanation of the sound post adjustment is very insightful. The difference is noticeable.
Mr. Russ; Thank you for your fine violin making series... When it comes to string instrument response, I might suggest sampling the tap tone
frequency at the string bar of the tailpiece where each string touches. Compart the tap tone of the very responsive string to those not as responsive.
My experience is that all the strings with the good response have the same tap tone (on either side of the string contact area). By slight wood
shape adjustments on the slow response strings (top slightly lover to lower tap tone and filing slight amounts from both sides of string bar to raise)
to make all strings have equal response. {I mention this only after 22 years of violin acoustical research}.
Great Master!
omg thank you sir
perfetto!
Thanks for uploading this precious knowledge.I wonder the same principle(the distance of sound post and bassbar)is working with also Viola ?
Edgar, it looked you pushed only on the top end of the sound post.
Doesn’t the bottom end need to be moved as well.
I thought it was best to place it more or less perpendicular to the top and bottom plates, no?
Well it certainly DOES sound noticeably better and I know that you KNOW what you’re doing, I just want to fully understand.
I so much wish I could play as well as Lena Yokoyama does. Great tone, intonation is right on.
I will keep working on it.
Maybe in another 1000 years I will get there.
If you push just right you end up pushing the entire sound post evenly. It looks like he pushed the ruler down to kind of hit the middle part of the soundpost making it move evenly of course only a master Luthier would be able to do it and make it look so easy.
*mamamiya I love that vocabulary 😂❤️
😂
Ebony part at E string? Will Make first string sharper? or louder??
Hi Vladimir! Actually it doesn’t influence the sound; but it makes the bridge last much longer!
Hope that helps!
All the best
Interesting, it sounded a bit more open after the adjustment as well.
Damn, that top looks beautiful
Thanks!
If the finish on my ukulele looked like that, I’d cry.
Hello Edgar, I was wondering if I could get your input on something. I'm currently making a less-than-traditional Talharpa: A 14th Century Scandinavian bowed lyre, and I had a question regarding bass-bar material, the correct grain direction, and an unrelated bridge question. I've chosen Bolivian Rosewood for the top and Maple for the body, with the intent to use Spruce for the sound post and bass-bar. Would that be a good idea or is there a rule where the bass-bar wood should match the top so that they expand/contract at the same rate? Regarding grain direction: Is it correct that looking down onto the bass-bar, the straight grain lines should be running along the length of the bar?(As opposed to along the sides of the bar) And finally, have you ever heard of someone using an entirely Ebony bridge? If so, what was the resulting tone like? Thank you so much for your time and keep up the wonderful work. I've really enjoyed discovering your channel :)
Adam, too much to answer here!
Sign up to my Patreon Channel and you will get all your answers live during my monthly Q&A.
Less than 4€ and you can participate tomorrow at 14:00.( Or watch it later on)
Good night!
Edgar
I have just measured the distance from the bridge to the front of the top plate as 19.3cm instead of your recommended 19.6cm. What do I do?
I noticed that the squeak disappeared!
Wow, she is ripping "Winter"!
Summer
@@ramram4754 Heh Heh ... it is Summer. Been a while playing for me.
For someone who is so careful about sound you could take the effort to set up your microphones levels properly.
Però, visto che Vive in Italia, lavora in Italia, parla ( a quanto pare..) bene italiano, perché non fare i video in italiano? Penso che sicuramente farebbe contenti molti che la seguono ma che hanno difficoltà con la lingua inglese, e oltretutto allargherebbe ancora di più la sua clientela Italiana.
What a gorgeous women!