I got the job done using this video as the base. But didn't do everything exactly has James did. For the rest, I used some steps from other videos. 1. Getting to the petcock is really hard without unbolting the resonator from the bottom so I just did that. 2. I skipped removing the drain bolt from the engine block. 3. I drained until it stopped (about 1/2 gal), filled it up, ran the engine, repeat. Did this 3 times. Ultimately I went through 2 gals of pre-mixed coolant. I didn't flush with distilled water because once that is done and you fill the system, its now has a bunch of water to get out. Might as well flush with the stuff going back in. Yes, there will be some residual of the old stuff. But it's no different than any other fluid you drain and fill on a car.
Great video. Very informative on accessing the petcock from the engine compartment vs going underneath the car and using the lower radiator hose. I was able to turn the petcock with angle needle nose. I used the needle nose on the first turn, then finished turning it with my index and middle finger. I only had a deep socket 22 which wouldnt fit in the tight space so I had to improvise.😂😂😂.
Was it easy with the angle needle nose pliers? I tried fitting a 1/2 inch ratchet down there with a 22mm socket but couldn't get it to fit no matter what I tried.
I removed the resonater and left it off lol. Less junk in the engine bay, and its only purpose is to quiet down the intake sound. Im about to do this job next weekend. Ill be using the zerex from valvoline too. Because im a valvoline fan boy 😂.
@@JamesFixIt if you mean removing the lower resonater box, it really doesn't make any difference sound wise. I just like less in the engine bay. It really serves no purpose. Plus even though it weighs nothing, every oz helps.
@@JamesFixIt just barely finished mine. You can get to the pet cock easily from underneath. If it's the first time doing a coolant change you might need some plyers just to get it started. I didn't do the engine block. I'm just going to let the new coolant circulate for a week, then do another drain and fill. I was able to do 2 drain and fills with 1 gallon of coolant. So I figure next weekend I'll do 2 more drain and fills and should be all new coolant for the most part.
@@MoronicAcid1 really? I've never heard of that before, can you provide a link or video if possible explaining this? If it's indeed the case I'll put mine back in. I want to get a prl cold air intake, mostly for when I get ktuner, and also like I mentioned because I like more open space in the engine bay.
I absolutely could not get the drain bolt off the engine block. I don't know what it was torqued to at the factory, but it was insane. I drained from the petcock and filled again but that only got me a 1/2 gallon. I'll have to try again another day, just ran out of time.
I did have to use my breaker bar on that drain bolt, but unfortunately did not get any footage. I’ll have to do a new video on this when it comes time to change out the coolant again👌🏽
Great Tutorial. But I didn’t quite catch whether or not you were implying to go through with the process of flushing the system with distilled water in removing the excess contaminants or did you skip that process implying that sometimes with you will get leftover distilled water in the system throwing off the coolant concentrate?
Is it that easy to do it on the newer Hondas? I had a 98 accord and doing the coolant change was a pain in the ass. I now have a 2018 hatchback sport 1.5 T
Yes, there’s a chance of air in the lines, but doing a combination of squeezing the upper radiator hose and running the engine will “burp” the system to get air bubbles out. 👍🏽
James, that block drain bolt seems to be pretty high up on the block so I'm curious how much coolant really drains out of the block when you remove that bolt. Can you answer that for me, please?
Whats interesting is the napa brand bottle is identical to the zerex bottle. Even the writting underneath. However the napa brand is made by the same company that makes peak. Must just be the bottles supplier? I ended up going with NAPA aka PEAK because it was on sale. Same ratings as valvoline. Now that I know how easy it is to change the coolant im going to add it to my once a year schedule. Also anyone reading this, when was the last time you changed your pcv valve 😉? Im on a campaign to get people to change their pcv valves, no matter what they drive. Some say to change the pcv valve every 30k on the 1.5t.
Finally a vid without removing clamp n hose 👍
Yes! I did not want to deal with that hose, and seems like some out there might be doing damage with a flat head. Thanks!
I got the job done using this video as the base. But didn't do everything exactly has James did. For the rest, I used some steps from other videos.
1. Getting to the petcock is really hard without unbolting the resonator from the bottom so I just did that.
2. I skipped removing the drain bolt from the engine block.
3. I drained until it stopped (about 1/2 gal), filled it up, ran the engine, repeat. Did this 3 times.
Ultimately I went through 2 gals of pre-mixed coolant. I didn't flush with distilled water because once that is done and you fill the system, its now has a bunch of water to get out. Might as well flush with the stuff going back in. Yes, there will be some residual of the old stuff. But it's no different than any other fluid you drain and fill on a car.
👌🏽 That’s actually a great idea of 3 times running coolant drains. I always try and avoid putting in 100% distilled water.
Why didn’t you want to just remove the engine block drain plug? Asking before I decide which way I do it
@@stevenpagillo6933 I couldn't get the thing off. I had a 2 foot breaker bar and it wouldn't budge.
Intake resonator increases low end torque
Great video. Very informative on accessing the petcock from the engine compartment vs going underneath the car and using the lower radiator hose. I was able to turn the petcock with angle needle nose. I used the needle nose on the first turn, then finished turning it with my index and middle finger. I only had a deep socket 22 which wouldnt fit in the tight space so I had to improvise.😂😂😂.
Great idea on the Angled needle nose pliers! I still need to pick up a pair of those lol! Thanks
Was it easy with the angle needle nose pliers? I tried fitting a 1/2 inch ratchet down there with a 22mm socket but couldn't get it to fit no matter what I tried.
@Amcchun Yeah. Much easier bc of the limited space. It was the 45° angle pliers if memory serves me correctly.
Hope this helps
@JamesFixIt yeah I used those pliers on everything.lolol
HarborFrieght has them at a good price.
@@bryan2287 awesome thanks for the reply!
thank you so much!!!! i’ve been looking for a video where someone actually reamoves the coolant bolt from the engine block as well!!!🎉🎉🎉🎉
I removed the resonater and left it off lol. Less junk in the engine bay, and its only purpose is to quiet down the intake sound. Im about to do this job next weekend. Ill be using the zerex from valvoline too. Because im a valvoline fan boy 😂.
Interesting…and now you got me thinking 🤔 lol!
@@JamesFixIt if you mean removing the lower resonater box, it really doesn't make any difference sound wise. I just like less in the engine bay. It really serves no purpose. Plus even though it weighs nothing, every oz helps.
@@JamesFixIt just barely finished mine. You can get to the pet cock easily from underneath. If it's the first time doing a coolant change you might need some plyers just to get it started. I didn't do the engine block. I'm just going to let the new coolant circulate for a week, then do another drain and fill. I was able to do 2 drain and fills with 1 gallon of coolant. So I figure next weekend I'll do 2 more drain and fills and should be all new coolant for the most part.
The intake resonator increases low end torque.
@@MoronicAcid1 really? I've never heard of that before, can you provide a link or video if possible explaining this? If it's indeed the case I'll put mine back in. I want to get a prl cold air intake, mostly for when I get ktuner, and also like I mentioned because I like more open space in the engine bay.
I absolutely could not get the drain bolt off the engine block. I don't know what it was torqued to at the factory, but it was insane. I drained from the petcock and filled again but that only got me a 1/2 gallon. I'll have to try again another day, just ran out of time.
I did have to use my breaker bar on that drain bolt, but unfortunately did not get any footage. I’ll have to do a new video on this when it comes time to change out the coolant again👌🏽
@@JamesFixIt Ah, thank you. I do have a breaker bar. I was just so ready to move on after fighting with the bolt, I forgot I had it. LOL
Please, What’s the torque spec for the drain bolt ?
Brilliant tutorial. Have you done brake fluid as well?
Thank you! I have another bleed video on the Pilot, but I should create one for the Civic as well: ua-cam.com/video/U6z3x7F4xIk/v-deo.html 👌
Great Tutorial. But I didn’t quite catch whether or not you were implying to go through with the process of flushing the system with distilled water in removing the excess contaminants or did you skip that process implying that sometimes with you will get leftover distilled water in the system throwing off the coolant concentrate?
Is it that easy to do it on the newer Hondas? I had a 98 accord and doing the coolant change was a pain in the ass. I now have a 2018 hatchback sport 1.5 T
Yes it is! 👍🏽 my 2012 pilot is even easier, with direct access to the Petcock and engine block has a bleeder drain bolt 🙀
Is there a chance of being air in the lines? How do you avoid that and remove air? Thx
Yes, there’s a chance of air in the lines, but doing a combination of squeezing the upper radiator hose and running the engine will “burp” the system to get air bubbles out. 👍🏽
James, that block drain bolt seems to be pretty high up on the block so I'm curious how much coolant really drains out of the block when you remove that bolt. Can you answer that for me, please?
Great point, I actually did not keep track of the measurement, but will take a close look on my next coolant drain! Thanks.
@@JamesFixIt Torque spec on drain bolt please.
When do you need to change the coolant?
Around every 30,000 miles, or every two years
How many liters of engine coolant does it take?

Whats interesting is the napa brand bottle is identical to the zerex bottle. Even the writting underneath. However the napa brand is made by the same company that makes peak. Must just be the bottles supplier? I ended up going with NAPA aka PEAK because it was on sale. Same ratings as valvoline. Now that I know how easy it is to change the coolant im going to add it to my once a year schedule. Also anyone reading this, when was the last time you changed your pcv valve 😉? Im on a campaign to get people to change their pcv valves, no matter what they drive. Some say to change the pcv valve every 30k on the 1.5t.
What washer to use on the engine block? Where is that bolt too?
It's a 28mm. Here you go: amzn.to/3NXPecA
Wait . Where is that engine block bolt? You zoom in too close and I don’t get where is it😂
Sorry about that ultra-close view lol! It is located on the front side of the block, driver's side. Hope that helps!
Leave your male pets alone
Wack background music.