THE BEST way to prime a LS ENGINE
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- Опубліковано 28 жов 2024
- this is the absolute BEST way to FULLY prime the oiling system in your LS engine and protect it from damage on its first startup. total cost was only 22 dollars, 9 for the cheap sprayer and 11 for the m16 1.5 to 3/8 hose barb adapter. I picked up both on Amazon and had them the next day.
#lsx #ls2 #ls3 #lm7 #lsx #lsmotor #enginebuilding101 #lsxturbo #silverado #oil #engineoverhaul #hotrod #camshaft #btr #briantooleyracing #summitracing #summitlspro #lspro #oilsystem #oilprime #gearheads #racetruck #lstruck #dragsilverado #daviejoneslockr
Would u happen to have links to the actual ones you bought thanks in advance
Autobahn88 Aluminum Hose Barb Fitting - M16 P1.5 Male to OD 10mm Barb (0.4") (with O-Ring) (SILVER) a.co/d/01tGG6h
CHAPIN 20000 Garden Sprayer 1 Gallon Lawn a.co/d/5WnaPgQ
These are the two that I purchased... I see the price of the sprayer is a little higher than when I bought mine, but that's the exact link to the one I purchased. A small investment to protect thousands of dollars worth of parts, research and labor, in my personal opinion. Also..... I used valvoline VR1 10w30 because it's a conventional oil that still has high zinc. They say it's not necessary but with the bronze bushings in the trunions I figured why not.
@@DavieJones_Lockr Can you pin Danyel's comment please
@@TaenXD "say no more, fam"
Excellent cost effective solution! Listed out the parts needed and showed what needed to be done clearly. Perfect video man! I’m in a similar boat, my first junkyard 5.3 spun a rod bearing after 700 miles in the swap, so this 6.0 I’m building is getting more attention, shimmed the oil pump, measured pushrods(glad I did) and now I can effectively prime this engine that’s been sitting for 3 years since we got it, no tellin how long it was in the junkyard. You’re the goat 🤘
No problem brother. I watch the video and think It's super cringe and would redo it a lot better now I've got some practice making videos. Thanks for the attaboy
I've seen at least half a dozen of these DIY videos. This by far is the most direct and simplified one. I'm gonna do this for the new 408 LS I have. Thanks for sharing.
No prob, brother. Hey when you get it going, throw a video up. Seeing people get their projects off the ground never gets old
This is the most simple n direct step to prime an ls. compared to several other ones I've watched that bshit around.this video worked for me.thnx guys
Man, thanks for sharing this. I was prepared to spend some serious bucks for a prime pump. I don't know why I didn't think of this. This process makes sure the cam, mains and rods also have a nice prime. My create long block arrived today. After dropping a few grand on an engine (5.3) I want to make sure everything is covered. My core had a DOD collapse and I parked the truck.Other than that I would have kept going with over 300k on it. Now, I'm off to surf the net picking up a new EGR, Pressure sensor, and anything else I can think of before I drop this thing in.
Thanks again,
Cheers from Louisiana.
Excellent explanation regarding lifter fill vs. crank position that others never mentioned. Researching to prime the motor in my TPI 87 Vette L98 SBC, thats been in storage for 20yrs, due to health & life crisis. I just want to avoid having to prime it the old conventional way & pulling the distributor & using a priming tool to engage the oil pump.
I hope using the oil sending unit will work on this 350sbc, or a
( T ) it in, to use the sender to monitor oil pressure on the dash gauge.
If it's complete I'd just kill the ignition and spin it on the starter
Hi I've been searching for a straightforward method of correctly priming my LS1 engine in an '03 VY Holden SS utility. The engine has not run for thirteen years as the vehicle was accident damaged and then stored out of the weather. Now I have the time to rebuild it properly.
Thank you for your input.😊
Thank you, so simple and straightforward.
Really like this method you have here-expands on the simple side fill way.I never feel safe till the lifters are showing oil,got my new method.thx
Glad I could help. I lost a cam and lifter set on a brand new LS engine and vowed never again. Never had this issue with a 350 so I figured carry over the same priming philosophy.
What I did was the hose by itself screws into the engine block without the fitting and it works great
Just a thick walled 3/8 like a fuel injection line?
Some good advice and good teaching. I'm currently building an LS engine for my Camaro I'll make sure to follow these steps.
Good stuff! I used the garden sprayer, cut the tube, and a barb-to-NPT, using the oil pressure sender port. GM 3100 V6 and a GM 3500 LX9 V6 within the last couple weeks...V6's need oil, too. I just did two quarts in the sprayer and concluded that is probably fine. Both engines fired right up, no oil pressure lights or anything.
Yep-i do it on top,easier
Good demonstration bud. Subscribed.
Awesome, thank you!
Learn something new everyday first time iv ever seen someone prime an ls iv always wondered how or if it had to be done on a ls never see any engine builders doing this before cranking one up kool tip/trick
Yeah man, can't hurt at all, so I call it cheap insurance. This is also after I ate the first cam and cam bearings so I wanted to reduce all possibilities of a repeat situation.
@@DavieJones_Lockr I understand like I say I never built an ls but iv built plenty of older engines an u got to prime them before start up an u can watch horse power tv of any of them programs that show build’s and dyno pulls after being built an never once had I seen someone prime an ls engine
@@barryhebert5839 this is my first.... and second LS lol. Learned a lot along the way. When it ate the cam bearings and the cam, I decided I'm going to find a way to prime it. A few guys said not to worry about it but I've never put an engine together that I DIDNT prime til now and I've never lost a cam til now soo... yeah I'll prime everything for the rest of my life just like all the SBC builds in my past.
Best priming video I seen thanks
No problem. I'm actually thinking about making more videos here soon if things come together the way I want them to. Fingers crossed
@@DavieJones_Lockr sounds good, I’m trying to prime mine now but I can’t seem to see the hole for the oil pressure sensor to put the adapter fitting in. Do you know if it is behind the Powersteering pump and that it has to come off in order to get to it ?
@ShamarSkitz2.0 oil pressure sensor on mine was behind the intake manifold on top of the block where the distributor used to be on the old 350s. Only thing on the side was the fill port you see me screw that fitting into to supply oil to the system.
Just unplug the coils so it won’t fire and crack til you have pressure. For no faster than it’s rotating and no longer than it takes to build pressure it’s not going to hurt anything at all. Parts won’t even have any heat in them at that point.
It was just cheap insurance to me.
Exactly.. wtf is assembly lube for?
They spend 300$ or some crazy money on the latest assembly lube, ARP fasteners and all that jazz… then this silly pre-lube bullshit.
C’mon man enough with the craziness.
Ice job explaining everything
Thanks, brother!
Thank you!!
Thanks I’ll try it!
awesome video, definitely gonna use this method for my ls1 thx
Thanks!.... I still recommend unplugging the coils and pulling the fuse used for the fuel pump so you can spin it on the starter til pressure builds up. It'll cost you NOTHING and possibly protect a few thousand dollars you have invested. Sounds like cheap insurance to me
really good idea !!
Thanks! 🤘
nice vid and thanks for sharing !! Quick question, if i have an assembled engine on the stand, and it's buttoned up, full of oil, can I remove the spark plugs, rotate the crank by hand, would i get the same results?
YES! the top end and bottom end are completely sealed from eachother and turning the engine will turn the oil pump. I just didn't want to turn the engine dry and wait for the oil as much as get as much oil to where it could possibly get before I cranked it. That's the only reason I did what I did. It's what we used to do with the older 350s
Thank you sir, love your channel. @@DavieJones_Lockr
@bradleycrenshaw6778 thank YOU. No one has ever said that to me. It makes me want to make more videos
What would you do if the oil starts coming out of the oil line connecting spot on the engine
You mean the threaded fitting? I guess i would either hit the threads with a little white thread sealer, or tighten the hose clamp that's holding the line onto the hose barb side. Some guys are pushing a hose directly into the threads without a fitting and are having good luck with the fuel injection rated hose that has a slightly larger outside diameter than standard fuel hose. It's not the cheapest hose around but you only need a scrap length of it really. If you mean where the hard line goes into the rubber hose, I'd just use a smaller inner diameter rubber line that's tight and make sure to get all oil residue off the two surfaces that oil is seeping through. Hit it with a shot of carb clean, ya know?
Homeboy cranked that filter down. Also, rockers look crooked. Not centered on valve springs.
He hasn’t tightened them down yet. I did cringe a bit on that filter though. Looks aight.
Haha yeah it looked tighter than it actually was. If I hadn't done it so slow for the camera it wouldn't have seemed that tight. That filter was only on the engine for a short time anyways so not really long enough to get bonded on. Couple of heat cycles and I dropped that oil and cut the filter open.
Yup, no pressure on the rockers. Figured why press on the lifters I'm trying to fill.
Quick question is the oil pan empty while your priming or does it not matter.
Empty to start with
I have to laugh, Because the manufacturer doesn't even do all these pre lube tricks that everyone has come up with. Just like balancing of the crank,rods,pistons and bearings. Ive hauled GAZILLIONS of LS engine parts into the engine assembly plant and stood there and watched them take container after container of pistons and rods and feed them into the robot that assembles them into the block and attaches them to the crank. There's NO balancing of ANYTHING. Yea, I get it. A factory OEM engine isn't going to be spinning at 8-K to 10-K RPM. But it shows how well the LS is designed and how forgiving it actually is.
10 points, but like you said, that's OEM manufacturing. Those guys have engineered a system of tooling that keeps all parameters within a certain range because at the volume they are producing, any variance is super dramatic. Think about if the added 2 grams to every single piston, the material costs at every piston in every engine in every vehicle and on every parts shelf would be so much more dramatic than the initial cost projections. It's amazing how well the factory can produce quality in extreme quantities. Imagine how many millions of dollars went into the research and development of not only the engine itself, but the tooling and supply line logistics as well. Crazy
The manufacturer also doesn't care how long your engine lasts, as long as it lasts until the warranty expires. Then they'll gladly sell you another new car
Weight balancing the rods and piston is not a waste of time or money. It definitely adds to a smooth motor
@John Doe biggest no brainer in any engine I've built from stock to wild. Do I want it balanced? YES. I'll pay for it every time. Even if the parts supplier says it's already balanced I'll say balance it. Everything else we can do to an engine is give and take in terms of drivability, longevity and fuel efficiency, a balance has NO downside other than the few bucks out of your pocket.
@@DavieJones_Lockr that's what I say. Pyle81 didn't seem to think so. I also agree with pre lubing. Can't hurt. I don't prelube or pre fill lifters
How fast did the oil come up through the pressure sensor? Engine is in car. Doing my Harmonic Balancer, Cam, Springs, Push rods, Timing chain and new Melling 10295 pump.
At 3:17 you'll hear me say "oh, I forgot to open the valve.." once I snap down the pump it cuts right to when i pushed the spray button so you can see it come up in real time. There's no footage cut there. It came up that quick that I was genuinely suprised.
Most people do not know how to prime the entire engine. So called pros only fill the pump.
Yup. And I wasn't taking chances
Why not just fit a compucheck fitting so you can hook up and prime every oil change ????
It was a fresh build that had never been run before so while there was assembly lube in the bearings, the rest of the oil passages were all empty. A normal oil change doesn't drain the whole system like that, at least not on all the engine platforms I'm familiar with. You never know though, there might be some engine somewhere that needs to be re-primed after a service.
Did you have to put the flywheel bolts in? I have oil leaking out of them?
Uhh.... I didn't have that issue at all. That's a new one on me. I also had the two units married on the floor before I started the process so they were already in place.
Rear main seal leaj!?
I just take all plugs out diddconnect coils and injectors and prime with the starter
I didn't yank the plugs, but I did disconnect the coils and spin it on the starter just because it was such a simple double check. I had immediate pressure and felt really good after it. I wasn't about to risk losing another camshaft and lifter set again this time.
@@DavieJones_Lockr are you able to do this on a old school small block chevy
@familia impala on the gen 1 small block you do it a little different. You yank out the distributor and install a tool that engages the oil pump manually so you can spin it without turning the engine. So no its not the same, but YES it's the same as bypassing the ignition system to prime the oil system. Some people actually use an old distributor that's been slightly modified instead of the tool, either way they use a power drill to turn it instead of the starter motor and it works great. Good question
How long after priming should engine be started?
Once these engines are primed they will stay primed as long as your filter has an anti drain back valve. You'd be hard to find a street filter that doesn't, to be honest. It's the same reason you don't have to prime it every morning. They stay primed.
Could this work on a sbc??
I don't see why it couldn't, but usually on the SBC you manually turn the oil pump from the distributor tunnel. They make a special tool for it but most people I know cannibalize an old distributor and use a drill to spin it.