Thanks for watching - if you found this video interesting then please subscribe to our channel and click the bell to be notified of our next video! This video contains: 10 ECO-DRIVING TIPS • 1:38 Tip 1: Accelerate gently • 2:17 Tip 2: Use the most efficient gear • 3:04 Tip 3: 'Lift & Roll' to travel for free • 4:05 Tip 4: Brake early and lightly • 4:35 Tip 5: Read the road ahead • 5:06 Tip 6: Don't exceed speed limits • 6:03 Tip 7: Don't coast in neutral • 6:43 Tip 8: Switch the engine off • 7:16 Tip 9: Anticipate other traffic • 7:40 Tip 10: Only use A/C when needed + 5 EXTRA TIPS • 10:06 Tip 1: Keep your car well maintained • 10:32 Tip 2: Check the tyre pressures • 10:56 Tip 3: Remove unnecessary weight • 11:26 Tip 4: Remove roof boxes or racks • 11:45 Tip 5: Plan the journey + • 13:34 RESULTS AND COSTS COMPARISON • 14:25 SUMMARY
Reference points will vary, depending on the car being driven and the seating position of the driver. If you are learning to drive, ask your instructor to help you find your own reference point 👍🏼
watching this as an American made me realize how bad our roads are for fuel efficiency. We have so many stop signs and stop lights instead of yield signs and roundabouts that we lose a lot more momentum. Thanks for the tips!
Some good tips, however I would dispute the tip of not using the A/C where possible. You should use the A/C regularly (at least 30min a week) to keep the air-con pump and system lubricated, otherwise the seals dry out and you will end up with an expensive bill to repair.
Thank you so much for the video! I normally get about 36-38MPG in my car! I’ve done exactly the same thing on the video of how to drive better economy, I’ve went out on a 30 mile drive and I’ve got to 48mpg today and this video really helps! I got a 2001 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 GTi with 115hp engine. My insurance cost every month is really good for my age as I’m 22! It runs pretty good on fuel depending of how you drive! Thank you again for the video! Really helpful!👍
I learnt to drive on these exact roads! (Moreton/Rougham industrial park - Suffolk). It's still an 'L' plate haven by day, & a local street circuit at night. 😬
Best eco driving video on UA-cam this needs to be be shared with every driving school and added to every driver training video this should replace most of the Smith driver training as it’s more realistic and easier to do with out pissing off follow motorists
Coasting in neutral when the road has little downhill will allow you to keep the speed with minimum fuel consumption. If u stay in gear u will loose speed or need to press the gas pedal back. If downhill is very steep keeping the car in gear will make best fuel economy Keeping in gear always or always coasting in neutral aren't best savers on fuel. Depends on each situation As well as acceleration, a fast but gentle acceleration will consumpt overall less fuel than if u spend 3x times to get into desired speed. Also, always keeping engine below 2k rpm will result in problems with carbon deposits into a long-term base... Nothing is black or white, there is a wide variety of Greys...
We always prefer to keep the car in gear, as it gives the driver more control over the cars speed. Safety is more important than saving a little fuel, so we always try to avoid coasting wherever possible. We even made this video about it: ua-cam.com/video/UT9c4QwZd7c/v-deo.html :-)
Staying in the highest gear possible is the middle ground i think, you keep the safety of being in gear, and it has little resistance, although higher than what you would have with neutral. I agree with the 2000 rpm part too, sometimes a little spirited driving open up diesel particulate filters, and is recommended.
@@magnumopus9058 Highest gear possible without overdoing it. As little gas as possible. High gear but having to push the throttle with no response is a bad sign. But down a hill the hill is in charge of the gears. Steep hills needs engine braking to avoid using brakes. Most hills just requires lifting off the throttle a little. No need to really do anything for most cases. Very common that going from a 60-80km/h zone to say 40km/h I can stick in top gear letting the RPM creep down to just around 1000rpm. Heck even small but long hills in 40km/h zones is it possible to stick it into top gear. The engine braking is so weak that it cancels out the hill at 1100rpm going 40km/h. No fuel used down the hill! But really steep hills at 40km/h might need 3000rpm engine braking to avoid needing to ride brakes down it. But that is kinda extreme one might say. Trying to accelerate in such a high gear at way to low speeds are just bad for the engine and nothing is going to happen speed wise. But keeping the car in gear and not using fuel is eco driving. As is planning how you drive. If going down a hill allows it you should try and burn fuel. At that point your giving the engine the chance of a lifetime to accelerate without burning excessive amount of fuel! Slow at the top and fast at the bottom. Always the case! Unless your to heavy or smart enough to not go to fast down the hill and tip over into the ditch! But really a engine not burning fuel to accelerate is just wasted fuel. And yes the emission stuff and in general clogging of the engine is a real problem when driving like this. Why it never hurts ones in a while to keep up with traffic or just hit 3-4000rpm and get stuff moving. Also looking into the peak torque rpm for the car your in, say 2200rpm being where the engine makes the max torque? Then it really do not hurt much chaining gear at 2300rpm or better yet when going up hills try and shift into that sweet spot and really make it work at peak power where it safely can perform intensely. But peak horsepower for some engines are in the red line range. So stick with peak torque. XD Really going up steep hills you want to be in the peak torque range. Saves on fuel and the engine is going to be allot happier. Better to over rev and land the next gear in max torque range if doing something like accelerating hard or just going up a hill. The temporary extra rpm is far better then trying to force the engine to work hard at to low of a rpm. In a lorry loaded messing the gear shifts up can make the hole vehicle go into a standstill in seconds! Manual shifting a heavy lorries are down right scary as they die right on the spot if you ask it to pull with even a slight to low RPM. No real warning it just loses all power ALL at ones. If you are skilled you can ram a lower gear and save it maybe.
That's really good video. This is what is covered during our eco driving courses by our FuelGood approved trainers. It is great to observe how simple changes in how you drive can give back big savings during a space of time.
dont go too ecodrive on diesels though, they need that turbo to work or you get them clogged up with soot. be sure to perform the DPF regen when you feel them getting sluggish.
Nice and informative video. A few tips to add i use myself: If it is all about eco driving, parts cost should also come to mind. Using engine braking would help tremendously in that, also with engine braking, you are always in the gear that you can accelerate fastest, thus safest. And you are not using any gas while doing so too. Also one should look as far as one can to see redlights, as its not about getting to a stop faster. Get out of fast lane, lift off the gas pedal and slowly decerelate. Try to time getting to the redlight when it turns green, so you never completely stop. Starting from a complete stop burns so much gas, its always better to use momentum to keep the car moving if you can. Using the other cars as wind blockage is a method to increase fuel efficiency as well, and works best with trucks, but always keep your safe distance and be alert. Aside all this, high power consumption accessories also use fuel, as that power comes from the alternator, when there is higher load, its harder for the engine to turn the alternator, and the engine uses more fuel. My best example would be heated seats. A phone charger wouldnt matter, but with a laptop or a mini fridge, it matters. (It's not huge, but everything adds up to something in the long run.)
I use this driving technique all the time, consequently when I drove to Stansted Airport (UK) in July from home, a distance of 130 miles each way, I got up to 70.5 mpg at motorway speeds on the M3, M25, and M11. This was going by the in car computer which I find to be extremely accurate. I rarely get less than 55 mpg, even around the narrow country lanes where I live. Another tip I use is to push my heel further forward on the mat, thus allowing the foot to be more upright on the accelerator pedal. This I believe prevents the foot from jiggling up and down on the pedal, a small but significant effect of having the foot resting harder on the pedal. My car by the way is an Audi A4 S/line, automatic, but I do find that at lower speeds the car will hover in a lower gear, especially on a cold engine. So I tend to use the steptronic mode, changing gear upward manually.. This allows me to slip into at least one gear higher, and sometimes two, without the engine struggling.
You are not getting that level of fuel economy. The computers are not accurate. Fill up at a pump, reset your tripometer then drive until your tank is nearly empty. Then return to same pump and fill up again. Divide the mileage on your tripometer by the number of litres ( or convert to gallons first ) for the only accurate method of calculating mpg. Then never look at your computer again. Waste of time.
I disagree on 6:00. I do Neutral rolls, as apparently a car saves more fuel injecting and keeping an engine idling at idle speeds, than keeping it alive at 3200RPM (from downshifts). The engine will still inject fuel when engine braking, perhaps less than when idling, but it injects it more frequently. It can not completely cut off the fuel injection when engine braking due to emission regulations. It needs to slowly decrease fuel, not to cause pollution. For this reason, engine braking is wasting more fuel than coasting in Neutral. I hardly ever brake (only when necessary). In my car, I often accelerate pretty hard (60%) and rev high. That way I can skip gears. Eg: I go from 1st, to 2nd, and depending on the situation do 3rd and 6th, or 4th and 6th. Or occasionally I do 1, 2 revving high, and 6 (if 2 gets me to the speed I need, usually urban 30MPH speeds). I've noticed that the faster acceleration in a lower gear wastes less fuel as the engine runs more efficiently when the valves and throttle body are opened, and the acceleration phase takes less time. As soon as I'm at the desired speed, I change to the highest gear I can shift to (above 35MPH it's usually 6th gear). Another thing I don't agree on, is stopping the engine at a traffic light. That's the worst thing you can do to a car engine and starter! Most of the engine wear comes from starting and stopping. Not from driving. Start-stop devices only make your car break faster, cost you more, and there is proof that it burns more oil when doing it this way. So it's best to just leave it idling. Another thing, AC drain is higher at higher speeds than at lower speeds. And the window only works at lower speeds. At highway speeds, even a small crack in the window, causes worse MPG than the AC (not to mention, get your roof liner dirty with exhaust gasses).
3200rpm? That is when you need to up-shift after acceleration. Downshifting to get to 3000+ rpm in a car should be reserved if you need the engine to act as a brake going downhill. And at that point your doing it to avoid riding the brakes down a somewhat steep hill. So your using no fuel and no brake pads to stop acceleration down a hill. Or your about to take off in a lower gear to hit redline for fun! (downshift to speed up fast). There is never really a good reason to go into neutral and coast. Even if modern vehicles do it automatically to save the extra 0.1% fuel. But there most likely is saving to be made talking about a lorry engine pulling 50ton where MAYBE there is a saving in coasting in neutral lowering the RPM by half. Say from 1100rpm to ide 550rpm. Where the gears are so short that even a small change in elevation increase rpm and so also pump losses so fast that you might go into neutral and save fuel. Since it is very likely that a archangel is going to occurs anyways very soon. But even in that environment it is just overdoing it. IF your going down hill your better to get into as high of a gear as possible and lower the engine RPM. But still using the hill to turn the engine over. Advanced driving is going slow at the top of a hill and accelerating down the hill. And before the hill try and have as much energy as possible built up and cress the hill top in a planned way. Maybe there is a hill going down afterwords that you can plan for. At the top of a hill you should be going to slow but still not need to downshift. And at the bottom of a hill you want to brake the speed limit. :c Using the engine as efficiently as possible down the hill and if possible burn fuel at all times. Since slowing down not burning fuel means your wasting what you already burned!
Excellent video. I know most of these tips already, however, it was still enjoyable. I went out today and managed about 89 to 95 mpg going at 60 to 62 mph. However, coming back home because of some more inclines/hills I could only really hit about 69 to 75 mpg. I think that's very good. I drive a 2012 Toyota Auris 1.8 Hybrid electric.
You briefly mentioned reducing load weight by removing excessive, superfluous luggage etc which makes complete sense. If we have a filling station on our daily route and don't have to make a special journey to fill up why not only quarter fill the tank to improve fuel economy. Fill up only for long journeys. On a 48 litre tank the weight saved is around 48lbs when only a quarter full or nearly the weight of a sack of potatoes. A quick internet search has thrown up a figure of 2% increased fuel usage for every 45kg of extra load. So filling your tank to 1 quarter full roughly equates to a 1% increase in fuel usage.
Have you seen this video made with our petrol car? Flexible Gear Selection | Learn to drive: Intermediate skills ua-cam.com/video/0P2HmAC7tWU/v-deo.html
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Informative video. Regarding the "coast in gear" vs "coast in neutral" recommendation. If a driver coasts in gear there is no fuel consumption, but the vehicle will generally not coast as far as if in neutral. For example, a vehicle is coasting in gear towards a stoplight, but driver realizes the vehicle is slowing down too much in gear, and so needs to bump the throttle, thus using extra fuel. On the other hand, coasting in neutral uses some limited fuel vs coasting in gear, but the vehicle can coast further with perhaps no need to bump the throttle. Not sure if there has been any comparison test of these two scenarios?
Yes, we have seen some automatic cars have a 'sailing' function where the gearbox disconnects the drive to allow the car to roll (or coast) further. Presumably this must have some benefit to the car's efficiency - but we wouldn't try to copy this in a manual car as it would reduce our control over the car's speed.
That would probably depend on the car. Manufacturers are very focussed on getting the absolute best fuel economy possible, so we imagine they would shut down the fuel injection as soon as the throttle is lifted, at any speed. This is because the momentum of the car will keep the engine running, without any need for fuel.
i extract about 14.5 km per litre from my 2013 honda civic in india. this is a manual transmission car with a 1.8 litre engine. the fuel economy is equivalent to approximately 41 miles per gallon petrol. courtesy our driving conditions, i am forced to drive with this is with air conditioning always switched once the engine has warmed up. i hope to get more after adopting the tip on not idling in neutral, instead leaving the car in gear. fingers crossed.
Yes - as long as the car is at the right speed for that gear. Otherwise we would prefer to brake than use the gears to slow down - as brake pads are cheaper to replace than a clutch!
That would just about be possible if you went as fast as possible in 1st gear - but terrible for fuel economy! This video explains more about missing out gears: Block Gear Changing: ua-cam.com/video/oI2kN1IvNnc/v-deo.html
This is how I have been driving: 0 to 10 MPH in first gear, 10 to 20 MPH in second gear, 20 to 30 MPH in third gear, 30 to 40 MPH in fourth gear, 40 to 50 MPH in fifth gear and over 50 MPH in sixth gear. For gas mileage, I would recommend going between 55 and 60 MPH in sixth or whatever your highest gear is because anything faster than 60 MPH would only mean extra wind resistance, forcing your car to work harder to maintain those higher speeds. I do not quite think you should keep your engine RPM below 2K, but do keep your RPM below 2.5K. You do want to keep your engine RPM above 1.5K because if it gets very low, you can stall the car and you do not want that. If I find a gear that runs precisely at 1.5K RPM at my fastest speed, I will normally shift down a gear for slightly higher RPM and some wiggle room to slow down without gear change, so I will have no worries about gear hunting. This is how my car runs in high gears at 40 MPH: Fourth gear: 2.3K RPM Fifth gear: 1.5K RPM Sixth gear: N/A When going 40 MPH at fastest, the computer inside my car does not allow me to use sixth gear because according to that such computer, I am still going too slow for sixth gear. Fifth gear is rarely the fastest gear that I use. My fastest gear will normally be sixth if I am driving fast on the highway or fourth if I am only driving in town between signal lights. Would you recommend any different shifting speeds apart from the above said speeds?
It really depends on the type of engine your car has, and the gear ratios the manufacturer has chosen. In reality we rarely drive in full ‘eco mode’ as we often need extra engine power to accelerate up to speed - so will change gear much later. We made this video to try and explain further: Flexible Gear Selection: ua-cam.com/video/0P2HmAC7tWU/v-deo.html 👍🏼
Well this is even more relevant now with the current fuel crisis. And it poses an interesting question: To achieve ultimate MPG could it be that one has to lower one's driving standards? For example by coasting, not using the brakes and various other driving practices? I have to admit to driving down gentle inclines with the clutch pedal depressed, though with the gear stick still in gear, ready to snap back into "drive" at a moments notice. I'm talking about the kind of gradual downward slope where the car would lose speed on a trailing throttle but would maintain a constant speed if declutching. I suspect I'm going to get a bit of a roasting regarding this practice and only something I've taken up doing during this fuel crisis. I drive a 2009 Ford Focus 1.6 petrol btw. I remember back in the 1970's various Saab's had a freewheeling feature, engaged via a lever. Same basic principle as what I've described except it simply engaged on a trailing throttle without depressing the clutch.
On a modern car coasting with the clutch down actually wastes fuel - instead we would use the ‘lift & roll’ technique, as shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/mO4xfwDUyBs/v-deo.html 👍🏼
My average is about 4.5L/100km, the spec sheet says it's 4.5 too on mixed roads, is that good ?I feel like I can improve but I have a hard time doing 4.4 or below
I am going tomorrow on eco-driving.Company where I working has devices that calculate your eco-drive based on bunch of parameters...In most cases i have thought that my driving is excellent,because it's my job for years, but my result is average.Still can't figure out how to using gearbox and brakes to meet all criteria and that is annoying.
Apart from accelerating gently the biggest way to improve economy is to 'lift and roll' every time you need to slow down for a junction etc. There is so much momentum in the car that it will keep rolling after lifting the accelerator for ages - and this is free travel! If this is done every time before braking you can really improve your figures.
I never go above 80km/hr or 50mph in my 1.4 diesel Auris. I average around 5l/100km in mixed driving of urban/rural and motorway. Motorways I have got it down to 3.3l/100 km at the best on a 53km round trip.
We don't use L/Km but I have just done the conversion - you are getting 56mpg urban, and 85mpg on a trip. Those are excellent figures, but please make sure you keep up with the flow of traffic on faster roads. In the UK staying under 50mph on a motorway would frustrate other drivers and could lead to danger. If the road is clear we like to stay above 60mph, even though it does use more fuel.
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool We are campaigning to bring the top speed limit down to 80km/hr on all roads in an effort to cut greenhouse gas emissions and air pollution. The co - benefits are reduced fuel consumption and safer roads.
@Advance Driving School I have found as a driver that it rarely matters what speed you travel at there will always be someone behind getting frustrated. Before keeping to 80km/hr I used to drive at the top speed and very often a driver would sit on my tail flashing because he (generally it was a he, not sure I can recall it ever being a she) wanted to go faster than the limit. These are the dangerous drivers not those keeping to 80 max (or 50mph in your country.) Keeping to 80km/hr, I have in four years, not once experienced someone flashing their lights at me or getting frustrated. If you keep to the left lane there is no problem. I found this to be true in Britain also. Perhaps you could do some experiments yourself and let me know what you experience. In Ireland we got a 43% support, in a national survey, to bring down the top speed limit to 80km/hr to help cut GHG emissions, air pollution and road deaths and injuries.
about 6 seconds is needed to equate fuel to start an engine. as explained by engineering explained also practice the high gear at low rev at open roads
A question, regarding coasting. Let's assume the road I'm driving in is slightly angled down, such that if I press the clutch pedal all the way (coast), the car would maintain speed or even accelerate on its own, and on the other hand if I kept the clutch up, I would need to use the gas pedal to keep the car's speed up. Is it better to coast in this situation, and let the angle of the road accelerate the car, instead of using the gas?
I'm assuming you don't have to come to a stop or otherwise slow down significantly at the bottom of the hill. If your car can maintain speed in neutral going downhill but begins losing speed with your highest gear engaged, then it would be most fuel efficient to coast in neutral. The engine has internal friction drag that increases with rpm. The fuel injectors must continually inject fuel to keep the engine running itself just in order to not create a drag torque on the crankshaft, and probably at an rpm significantly higher than idle at freeway speeds. Therefore more fuel will be burned to keep the engine running and producing zero torque at, say 2000 rpm, than at an idle speed of, say 800 rpm. If your car actually gains speed in neutral going down the hill, then it is still more efficient to leave it in neutral. Placing the car in gear requires fuel to be burned just to maintain speed, and uses the engine very inefficiently at a very light load with maximal valvetrain flow energy loss, and robs the car of energy that could otherwise be built up in the form of increased kinetic energy and used to assist the car on the way up the next hill. However, as a disclaimer, coasting in neutral is not as safe as coasting in gear due to reduction of speed controllability.
simply superb. despite being a "fuel" saver myself, there is a tip or two that i picked up from this video. two quick questions. could you confirm if the "gallon" measure for diesel is 4.54609 litres per gallon? you also recommended switching the engine off if stopping for 30+ seconds. what is the corresponding metric for a petrol car? thank you so much for your time.
Yes, that is the correct size for a U.K. gallon. In both a petrol or diesel car we will save fuel as soon as the engine is stopped - but we are wary of stopping the engine manually too often in case it wears the starter motor prematurely. On a car with ‘start/stop’ built in there will be a heavy duty starting system fitted as standard so it isn’t a problem 👍🏼
i have a Tucson which is not fuel efficient, while it got manual and automatic gears i was wondering if i use manual gears always would it be more fuel efficient than its automatic gears? and in which rpm change gears thanks in advance for any help guys
In an automatic car the most efficient option is to leave it in fully automatic mode, and focus on your driving technique - accelerate gently, reduce hard braking etc. Manually selecting gears will give more control but also use more fuel than staying in Drive.
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool Staying in a higher gear using the manual controls can save fuel, though. Some automatic gearboxes prioritize vehicle responsiveness over fuel efficiency. Also, no automatic gearbox is able to see what's ahead of it. A driver can, and sometimes may be able to be more efficient than the gearbox programming
Advance Driving School but wasn't it supposed to be normal driving just without extra consideration. The people this is aimed at wouldn't stay in 3rd anyway
"Stop n Go" is saving fuel even at much shorter stops. If you do the numbers, i.e. calculate energy needed to recover the energy lost on cranking, stopping the engine for longer than 7-12 seconds is saving fuel. I've been an ecodriver for 30 years, and had never owned a car I couldn't drive slightly more economical in mixed average than the manufacturer's "extra urban" consumption figure. That included stopping the engine with the key whenever possible. If everyone follows your advice in this video, CO2 emission from transport would drop 30% and reduce global CO2 emission by 10%, Which is much more than even the Paris agreement is capable of. It is not American politicians changing the climate it is you and me, preferring convenience over anything else! Isn't ecodriving on the driving school curriculum in the UK?
There is no official curriculum for driving schools, we just do our best to teach new drivers all the skills they need to be a safe driver. On the driving test they do assess the driver for 'Eco-safe skills', but this doesn't affect the test result in any way. Of course, it is up to the individual to decide how they drive after they have passed, and from the low viewing figures for this video (compared to our others of the same age) you can see how few people are interested in improving their eco-driving skills. You might expect that saving 30% of their fuel bill would be an attraction, but I guess not!
With petrol engine 1.0 tsi engine my fuel consuption is 5.7-6.0 /100km on mixed roads. My town has a lot of uphills and downhills. Is that good fuel economy?
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool wv polo 1.0 tsi. In book it says 5.5l/100km(if I am not wrong) in urban but I think it is impossible because it was tasted in perfect condition. I have so many hills and downhills and lot of other cars.
My Hyundai Getz 1.4 2007 uses more gas/petrol coasting in gear than in neutral. It does not have a shutoff system. So your claim is wrong. It's enitrely dependant on the vehicle.
Very usefull, but i don't think it's ok for turbo, egr, filter particle to run under 2 000rpm. A diesel engine work in perfect condition at 2200rpm aprox. But if you change the gear at 2000 and you accelerate from 1000 it's bad for the engine. I don't care about fuel economy if I harm the engine in long term use
All the tips in this video will help - but in your car the best fuel economy possible will be far less. Look up the official figures for your car and try to beat those. Good luck!
Thats a common misconception. The most fuel efficient way to accelerate of course differs between cars but generally its around three quarters throttle while staying somewhere in the 2000 rpm range. Being too gentle with throttle decreases overall engine efficiency mostly through increased pumping losses at the throttle valve.
This car is a diesel - so has no throttle valve! Perhaps the most efficient technique will vary depending on which type (petrol / diesel / hybrid / electric) of car you are driving - however in our experience we get the best results when accelerating gently.
Keep in mind with the end prices british people might want to almost double that because of the actual new price of umm £2 a litre (far too many $ a gallon)
I don't get the claim that cruising in neutral doesn't use less fuel than lift and roll. When I cruise at 60 mph down a 2 mile motorway hill my tachometer displays 800 rpm. If I drive down the same hill at the same speed the tacho reads around 2700 or higher. Obviously that is because my throttle is closed when cruising. So how come I am using more fuel at 800rpm than at 2700rpm. If the ECU instructs the throttle to open when cruising how come my tacho doesnt record an increase in rpm from 800rpm. I have been able to put the car into 5th gear when the coasting car begins to slow without any incident I should add.
Hi beautiful voice I failed my driving test yesterday I am very disappointed I couldn't believe because I had very confedence to drive safe whatchin ur vedios help me a lot thanks
I drive a 2014 1.4 petrol Kia Rio (A different variant of the car used in the test) I usually get 38 MPG around town. I live in Milton Keynes so my driving consists of forever accelerating to 50/60/70 MPH for a mile or two, then slowing or stopping for a roundabout. Must be the worst place to live for eco driving.
Advance Driving School - If coasting in neutral wastes fuel then why modern cars with automatic transmission have got coasting mode ? ( Just in case You didn't know... coasting mode is driving in neutral :)
Modern cars with automatic gearboxes are clever enough to disconnect and even shut down the engine to actually save fuel when coasting - but in a manual car we could not safely do this ourselves. This link gives more detail: www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-explains/what-is-a-coasting-function-ph-explains/39081
I always drived petrol and "slow accelerating" technique that I was taught would usually give me poor fuel consumption. Which worked best for me is "accelerate dynamically rather than lazily and then switch to the highest gear when reached desirable speed". I think the reason is that petrol engine is throttled if the accelerator is barely pressed and also driving on too low gear (lower than 2k rpm) is not good for the engine. Does that make sense?
When accelerating, keeping the engine revs low is key to good economy - so use enough throttle to keep up with the traffic flow, but change up as early as possible without ‘lugging’ the engine. This works the same in petrol and diesel cars - but the extra torque of a diesel allows earlier up-changes.
Thank you for the tips! My mistake was listening to what someone mentioned about coasting (driving out of gear downhill etc.). Not only is it dangerous and takes longer to stop, I had no idea you are not using fuel just letting off the throttle and rolling. Since you still have revs i asssumed u still burn fuel but i guess thats not true?
The rpm is high because your wheels are rotating and the engine is connected to the tyres. So the tyres turn the engine for FREE. If you put it in neutral, then the engine is idling, which uses fuel. Having low rpm is beneficial only if you're ACCELERATING.
@@carlos.coronado Try to think of braking as wasting fuel. If you use your accelerator more precisely you won't have 'excess momentum' that needs to be wasted by using the brakes.
He is driving on the wrong side of the road - edit: I just realized that the video must be reversed. Probably so that it wont be removed due to copyright issues.
9:!5 waaaait a minute.. Staying in lower gears more of the time is NOT normal driving!! Normal driving is as high of a gear as possible, as soon as possible. You should have called it "Try to use fuel-driving".. Not "Normal driving"..
on these b roads you wont save time most of the time even if you drive like a maniac. lets say every 20 miles youll be able to be 2-3 minutes faster thats all.
Thanks for watching - if you found this video interesting then please subscribe to our channel and click the bell to be notified of our next video! This video contains:
10 ECO-DRIVING TIPS
• 1:38 Tip 1: Accelerate gently
• 2:17 Tip 2: Use the most efficient gear
• 3:04 Tip 3: 'Lift & Roll' to travel for free
• 4:05 Tip 4: Brake early and lightly
• 4:35 Tip 5: Read the road ahead
• 5:06 Tip 6: Don't exceed speed limits
• 6:03 Tip 7: Don't coast in neutral
• 6:43 Tip 8: Switch the engine off
• 7:16 Tip 9: Anticipate other traffic
• 7:40 Tip 10: Only use A/C when needed
+
5 EXTRA TIPS
• 10:06 Tip 1: Keep your car well maintained
• 10:32 Tip 2: Check the tyre pressures
• 10:56 Tip 3: Remove unnecessary weight
• 11:26 Tip 4: Remove roof boxes or racks
• 11:45 Tip 5: Plan the journey
+
• 13:34 RESULTS AND COSTS COMPARISON
• 14:25 SUMMARY
Reference points will vary, depending on the car being driven and the seating position of the driver. If you are learning to drive, ask your instructor to help you find your own reference point 👍🏼
Does this tips work with carburettor engine?
@@safwansyafiq9155 Yes, although it will never be as efficient as a similar engine that has fuel injection.
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool thank you for answering my question
watching this as an American made me realize how bad our roads are for fuel efficiency. We have so many stop signs and stop lights instead of yield signs and roundabouts that we lose a lot more momentum. Thanks for the tips!
But your roads are a lot easier to drive
Some good tips, however I would dispute the tip of not using the A/C where possible.
You should use the A/C regularly (at least 30min a week) to keep the air-con pump and system lubricated, otherwise the seals dry out and you will end up with an expensive bill to repair.
Thank you so much for the video! I normally get about 36-38MPG in my car! I’ve done exactly the same thing on the video of how to drive better economy, I’ve went out on a 30 mile drive and I’ve got to 48mpg today and this video really helps! I got a 2001 Volkswagen Golf 2.0 GTi with 115hp engine. My insurance cost every month is really good for my age as I’m 22! It runs pretty good on fuel depending of how you drive! Thank you again for the video! Really helpful!👍
I learnt to drive on these exact roads! (Moreton/Rougham industrial park - Suffolk). It's still an 'L' plate haven by day, & a local street circuit at night. 😬
Best eco driving video on UA-cam this needs to be be shared with every driving school and added to every driver training video this should replace most of the Smith driver training as it’s more realistic and easier to do with out pissing off follow motorists
Coasting in neutral when the road has little downhill will allow you to keep the speed with minimum fuel consumption.
If u stay in gear u will loose speed or need to press the gas pedal back.
If downhill is very steep keeping the car in gear will make best fuel economy
Keeping in gear always or always coasting in neutral aren't best savers on fuel. Depends on each situation
As well as acceleration, a fast but gentle acceleration will consumpt overall less fuel than if u spend 3x times to get into desired speed.
Also, always keeping engine below 2k rpm will result in problems with carbon deposits into a long-term base...
Nothing is black or white, there is a wide variety of Greys...
We always prefer to keep the car in gear, as it gives the driver more control over the cars speed. Safety is more important than saving a little fuel, so we always try to avoid coasting wherever possible. We even made this video about it: ua-cam.com/video/UT9c4QwZd7c/v-deo.html :-)
Staying in the highest gear possible is the middle ground i think, you keep the safety of being in gear, and it has little resistance, although higher than what you would have with neutral. I agree with the 2000 rpm part too, sometimes a little spirited driving open up diesel particulate filters, and is recommended.
@@magnumopus9058 Highest gear possible without overdoing it. As little gas as possible. High gear but having to push the throttle with no response is a bad sign. But down a hill the hill is in charge of the gears. Steep hills needs engine braking to avoid using brakes. Most hills just requires lifting off the throttle a little. No need to really do anything for most cases.
Very common that going from a 60-80km/h zone to say 40km/h I can stick in top gear letting the RPM creep down to just around 1000rpm. Heck even small but long hills in 40km/h zones is it possible to stick it into top gear. The engine braking is so weak that it cancels out the hill at 1100rpm going 40km/h. No fuel used down the hill! But really steep hills at 40km/h might need 3000rpm engine braking to avoid needing to ride brakes down it. But that is kinda extreme one might say.
Trying to accelerate in such a high gear at way to low speeds are just bad for the engine and nothing is going to happen speed wise. But keeping the car in gear and not using fuel is eco driving. As is planning how you drive. If going down a hill allows it you should try and burn fuel. At that point your giving the engine the chance of a lifetime to accelerate without burning excessive amount of fuel! Slow at the top and fast at the bottom. Always the case! Unless your to heavy or smart enough to not go to fast down the hill and tip over into the ditch! But really a engine not burning fuel to accelerate is just wasted fuel.
And yes the emission stuff and in general clogging of the engine is a real problem when driving like this. Why it never hurts ones in a while to keep up with traffic or just hit 3-4000rpm and get stuff moving. Also looking into the peak torque rpm for the car your in, say 2200rpm being where the engine makes the max torque? Then it really do not hurt much chaining gear at 2300rpm or better yet when going up hills try and shift into that sweet spot and really make it work at peak power where it safely can perform intensely. But peak horsepower for some engines are in the red line range. So stick with peak torque. XD Really going up steep hills you want to be in the peak torque range. Saves on fuel and the engine is going to be allot happier. Better to over rev and land the next gear in max torque range if doing something like accelerating hard or just going up a hill. The temporary extra rpm is far better then trying to force the engine to work hard at to low of a rpm. In a lorry loaded messing the gear shifts up can make the hole vehicle go into a standstill in seconds! Manual shifting a heavy lorries are down right scary as they die right on the spot if you ask it to pull with even a slight to low RPM.
No real warning it just loses all power ALL at ones. If you are skilled you can ram a lower gear and save it maybe.
That's really good video. This is what is covered during our eco driving courses by our FuelGood approved trainers. It is great to observe how simple changes in how you drive can give back big savings during a space of time.
Thanks a bunch for adding into our knowledge. Though resisting the temptation to accelerate hard in a turbo Subaru is a hard one 😅😅
We had an ‘05 Impreza STI back in the day ...👌🏼
dont go too ecodrive on diesels though, they need that turbo to work or you get them clogged up with soot. be sure to perform the DPF regen when you feel them getting sluggish.
Nice and informative video. A few tips to add i use myself:
If it is all about eco driving, parts cost should also come to mind.
Using engine braking would help tremendously in that, also with engine braking, you are always in the gear that you can accelerate fastest, thus safest. And you are not using any gas while doing so too.
Also one should look as far as one can to see redlights, as its not about getting to a stop faster.
Get out of fast lane, lift off the gas pedal and slowly decerelate. Try to time getting to the redlight when it turns green, so you never completely stop. Starting from a complete stop burns so much gas, its always better to use momentum to keep the car moving if you can.
Using the other cars as wind blockage is a method to increase fuel efficiency as well, and works best with trucks, but always keep your safe distance and be alert.
Aside all this, high power consumption accessories also use fuel, as that power comes from the alternator, when there is higher load, its harder for the engine to turn the alternator, and the engine uses more fuel. My best example would be heated seats. A phone charger wouldnt matter, but with a laptop or a mini fridge, it matters. (It's not huge, but everything adds up to something in the long run.)
Can I still do this without repositioning the steering wheel to the passenger side, or driving on the left lane?
Its imposible 😂
I use this driving technique all the time, consequently when I drove to Stansted Airport (UK) in July from home, a distance of 130 miles each way, I got up to 70.5 mpg at motorway speeds on the M3, M25, and M11. This was going by the in car computer which I find to be extremely accurate. I rarely get less than 55 mpg, even around the narrow country lanes where I live.
Another tip I use is to push my heel further forward on the mat, thus allowing the foot to be more upright on the accelerator pedal. This I believe prevents the foot from jiggling up and down on the pedal, a small but significant effect of having the foot resting harder on the pedal.
My car by the way is an Audi A4 S/line, automatic, but I do find that at lower speeds the car will hover in a lower gear, especially on a cold engine. So I tend to use the steptronic mode, changing gear upward manually.. This allows me to slip into at least one gear higher, and sometimes two, without the engine struggling.
thanks a lot, I just passed the driver's licence and I came here looking for tips. Your answer helped me, in addition to the video ^^ cheers mate
You are not getting that level of fuel economy. The computers are not accurate. Fill up at a pump, reset your tripometer then drive until your tank is nearly empty. Then return to same pump and fill up again. Divide the mileage on your tripometer by the number of litres ( or convert to gallons first ) for the only accurate method of calculating mpg. Then never look at your computer again. Waste of time.
I disagree on 6:00. I do Neutral rolls, as apparently a car saves more fuel injecting and keeping an engine idling at idle speeds, than keeping it alive at 3200RPM (from downshifts).
The engine will still inject fuel when engine braking, perhaps less than when idling, but it injects it more frequently.
It can not completely cut off the fuel injection when engine braking due to emission regulations. It needs to slowly decrease fuel, not to cause pollution.
For this reason, engine braking is wasting more fuel than coasting in Neutral.
I hardly ever brake (only when necessary).
In my car, I often accelerate pretty hard (60%) and rev high. That way I can skip gears. Eg: I go from 1st, to 2nd, and depending on the situation do 3rd and 6th, or 4th and 6th.
Or occasionally I do 1, 2 revving high, and 6 (if 2 gets me to the speed I need, usually urban 30MPH speeds).
I've noticed that the faster acceleration in a lower gear wastes less fuel as the engine runs more efficiently when the valves and throttle body are opened, and the acceleration phase takes less time.
As soon as I'm at the desired speed, I change to the highest gear I can shift to (above 35MPH it's usually 6th gear).
Another thing I don't agree on, is stopping the engine at a traffic light. That's the worst thing you can do to a car engine and starter! Most of the engine wear comes from starting and stopping. Not from driving. Start-stop devices only make your car break faster, cost you more, and there is proof that it burns more oil when doing it this way. So it's best to just leave it idling.
Another thing, AC drain is higher at higher speeds than at lower speeds. And the window only works at lower speeds. At highway speeds, even a small crack in the window, causes worse MPG than the AC (not to mention, get your roof liner dirty with exhaust gasses).
Thanx great advice 👍
3200rpm? That is when you need to up-shift after acceleration. Downshifting to get to 3000+ rpm in a car should be reserved if you need the engine to act as a brake going downhill. And at that point your doing it to avoid riding the brakes down a somewhat steep hill. So your using no fuel and no brake pads to stop acceleration down a hill. Or your about to take off in a lower gear to hit redline for fun! (downshift to speed up fast).
There is never really a good reason to go into neutral and coast. Even if modern vehicles do it automatically to save the extra 0.1% fuel. But there most likely is saving to be made talking about a lorry engine pulling 50ton where MAYBE there is a saving in coasting in neutral lowering the RPM by half.
Say from 1100rpm to ide 550rpm. Where the gears are so short that even a small change in elevation increase rpm and so also pump losses so fast that you might go into neutral and save fuel. Since it is very likely that a archangel is going to occurs anyways very soon. But even in that environment it is just overdoing it.
IF your going down hill your better to get into as high of a gear as possible and lower the engine RPM. But still using the hill to turn the engine over. Advanced driving is going slow at the top of a hill and accelerating down the hill. And before the hill try and have as much energy as possible built up and cress the hill top in a planned way. Maybe there is a hill going down afterwords that you can plan for.
At the top of a hill you should be going to slow but still not need to downshift. And at the bottom of a hill you want to brake the speed limit. :c Using the engine as efficiently as possible down the hill and if possible burn fuel at all times. Since slowing down not burning fuel means your wasting what you already burned!
one of the most easy to understand and wise tips, thank you!
All great tips, although I keep my petrol car under 2000 RPM. 3000 RPM sound like my car is turning super sayian
Thanks a lot. Have been driving for more than 20 years but this has been a great learning experience.
I have a Honda Gen 1 Insight that gives around 80mpg. Cant wait to try this and get to 100mpg!!!!
R.I.P Egr valve
Excellent video. I know most of these tips already, however, it was still enjoyable. I went out today and managed about 89 to 95 mpg going at 60 to 62 mph. However, coming back home because of some more inclines/hills I could only really hit about 69 to 75 mpg. I think that's very good. I drive a 2012 Toyota Auris 1.8 Hybrid electric.
Nice work!
You briefly mentioned reducing load weight by removing excessive, superfluous luggage etc which makes complete sense. If we have a filling station on our daily route and don't have to make a special journey to fill up why not only quarter fill the tank to improve fuel economy. Fill up only for long journeys. On a 48 litre tank the weight saved is around 48lbs when only a quarter full or nearly the weight of a sack of potatoes. A quick internet search has thrown up a figure of 2% increased fuel usage for every 45kg of extra load. So filling your tank to 1 quarter full roughly equates to a 1% increase in fuel usage.
Perhaps you have to balance the extra economy of saving weight against the extra distance driven visiting the petrol station more often.
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool not if you are driving past it anyway as I said.
Very helpful! Fun to watch you all drive on the "wrong" side! Haha!!
Very informative and well made video. And a special thumbs up for comparing the time saved over fuel saved 👍
the struggles of not being rich
Caitlyn from League of Legends taught me a lot about driving. Thank you. Also the sped part freaked me out 😂
Im more intrested in the accelectrometer on the dash, any name? Link?
i would like to see a video exactly like this but on a petrol car, to watch the revs and the gears in diferent situations!
Have you seen this video made with our petrol car? Flexible Gear Selection | Learn to drive: Intermediate skills ua-cam.com/video/0P2HmAC7tWU/v-deo.html
We have already finished our next video - and early access to all new videos is available to our Patrons! To watch the next video a week early, or find out more about our crowdfunding campaign with Patreon please click on this link: www.patreon.com/Advance Thanks!
Informative video. Regarding the "coast in gear" vs "coast in neutral" recommendation. If a driver coasts in gear there is no fuel consumption, but the vehicle will generally not coast as far as if in neutral. For example, a vehicle is coasting in gear towards a stoplight, but driver realizes the vehicle is slowing down too much in gear, and so needs to bump the throttle, thus using extra fuel. On the other hand, coasting in neutral uses some limited fuel vs coasting in gear, but the vehicle can coast further with perhaps no need to bump the throttle. Not sure if there has been any comparison test of these two scenarios?
Yes, we have seen some automatic cars have a 'sailing' function where the gearbox disconnects the drive to allow the car to roll (or coast) further. Presumably this must have some benefit to the car's efficiency - but we wouldn't try to copy this in a manual car as it would reduce our control over the car's speed.
Excellent tips to save fuel!
When coasting in gear I heard the rpms need to be above 1200 or so to cut the fuel injectors off. Is this true?
That would probably depend on the car. Manufacturers are very focussed on getting the absolute best fuel economy possible, so we imagine they would shut down the fuel injection as soon as the throttle is lifted, at any speed. This is because the momentum of the car will keep the engine running, without any need for fuel.
i extract about 14.5 km per litre from my 2013 honda civic in india. this is a manual transmission car with a 1.8 litre engine. the fuel economy is equivalent to approximately 41 miles per gallon petrol. courtesy our driving conditions, i am forced to drive with this is with air conditioning always switched once the engine has warmed up. i hope to get more after adopting the tip on not idling in neutral, instead leaving the car in gear. fingers crossed.
In the lift and roll technique, can I change down without using the brake when turning into a junction?
Yes - as long as the car is at the right speed for that gear. Otherwise we would prefer to brake than use the gears to slow down - as brake pads are cheaper to replace than a clutch!
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool Is it OK to upshift directly from 1st to 4th gear?
That would just about be possible if you went as fast as possible in 1st gear - but terrible for fuel economy! This video explains more about missing out gears: Block Gear Changing: ua-cam.com/video/oI2kN1IvNnc/v-deo.html
This is how I have been driving: 0 to 10 MPH in first gear, 10 to 20 MPH in second gear, 20 to 30 MPH in third gear, 30 to 40 MPH in fourth gear, 40 to 50 MPH in fifth gear and over 50 MPH in sixth gear. For gas mileage, I would recommend going between 55 and 60 MPH in sixth or whatever your highest gear is because anything faster than 60 MPH would only mean extra wind resistance, forcing your car to work harder to maintain those higher speeds. I do not quite think you should keep your engine RPM below 2K, but do keep your RPM below 2.5K. You do want to keep your engine RPM above 1.5K because if it gets very low, you can stall the car and you do not want that. If I find a gear that runs precisely at 1.5K RPM at my fastest speed, I will normally shift down a gear for slightly higher RPM and some wiggle room to slow down without gear change, so I will have no worries about gear hunting. This is how my car runs in high gears at 40 MPH:
Fourth gear: 2.3K RPM
Fifth gear: 1.5K RPM
Sixth gear: N/A
When going 40 MPH at fastest, the computer inside my car does not allow me to use sixth gear because according to that such computer, I am still going too slow for sixth gear. Fifth gear is rarely the fastest gear that I use. My fastest gear will normally be sixth if I am driving fast on the highway or fourth if I am only driving in town between signal lights. Would you recommend any different shifting speeds apart from the above said speeds?
It really depends on the type of engine your car has, and the gear ratios the manufacturer has chosen. In reality we rarely drive in full ‘eco mode’ as we often need extra engine power to accelerate up to speed - so will change gear much later. We made this video to try and explain further: Flexible Gear Selection: ua-cam.com/video/0P2HmAC7tWU/v-deo.html 👍🏼
This is very useful training
Well this is even more relevant now with the current fuel crisis. And it poses an interesting question: To achieve ultimate MPG could it be that one has to lower one's driving standards? For example by coasting, not using the brakes and various other driving practices? I have to admit to driving down gentle inclines with the clutch pedal depressed, though with the gear stick still in gear, ready to snap back into "drive" at a moments notice. I'm talking about the kind of gradual downward slope where the car would lose speed on a trailing throttle but would maintain a constant speed if declutching. I suspect I'm going to get a bit of a roasting regarding this practice and only something I've taken up doing during this fuel crisis. I drive a 2009 Ford Focus 1.6 petrol btw. I remember back in the 1970's various Saab's had a freewheeling feature, engaged via a lever. Same basic principle as what I've described except it simply engaged on a trailing throttle without depressing the clutch.
On a modern car coasting with the clutch down actually wastes fuel - instead we would use the ‘lift & roll’ technique, as shown in this video: ua-cam.com/video/mO4xfwDUyBs/v-deo.html 👍🏼
My average is about 4.5L/100km, the spec sheet says it's 4.5 too on mixed roads, is that good ?I feel like I can improve but I have a hard time doing 4.4 or below
We’re not used to L/km (we use MPG) but if you can match the car’s spec then you are doing well!
What is the thing on the windscreen ? Is it a G-Sensor ? Where to buy one?
It’s this: ControlPal g-force meter ua-cam.com/video/G2RTr15iwZA/v-deo.html 👍🏼
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool Thanks Just Bought one !!
I am going tomorrow on eco-driving.Company where I working has devices that calculate your eco-drive based on bunch of parameters...In most cases i have thought that my driving is excellent,because it's my job for years, but my result is average.Still can't figure out how to using gearbox and brakes to meet all criteria and that is annoying.
Apart from accelerating gently the biggest way to improve economy is to 'lift and roll' every time you need to slow down for a junction etc. There is so much momentum in the car that it will keep rolling after lifting the accelerator for ages - and this is free travel! If this is done every time before braking you can really improve your figures.
Thank you man,for the tips...appreciate it.
I never go above 80km/hr or 50mph in my 1.4 diesel Auris. I average around 5l/100km in mixed driving of urban/rural and motorway. Motorways I have got it down to 3.3l/100 km at the best on a 53km round trip.
We don't use L/Km but I have just done the conversion - you are getting 56mpg urban, and 85mpg on a trip. Those are excellent figures, but please make sure you keep up with the flow of traffic on faster roads. In the UK staying under 50mph on a motorway would frustrate other drivers and could lead to danger. If the road is clear we like to stay above 60mph, even though it does use more fuel.
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool We are campaigning to bring the top speed limit down to 80km/hr on all roads in an effort to cut greenhouse gas emissions and air pollution. The co - benefits are reduced fuel consumption and safer roads.
@Advance Driving School I have found as a driver that it rarely matters what speed you travel at there will always be someone behind getting frustrated. Before keeping to 80km/hr I used to drive at the top speed and very often a driver would sit on my tail flashing because he (generally it was a he, not sure I can recall it ever being a she) wanted to go faster than the limit. These are the dangerous drivers not those keeping to 80 max (or 50mph in your country.) Keeping to 80km/hr, I have in four years, not once experienced someone flashing their lights at me or getting frustrated. If you keep to the left lane there is no problem. I found this to be true in Britain also. Perhaps you could do some experiments yourself and let me know what you experience. In Ireland we got a 43% support, in a national survey, to bring down the top speed limit to 80km/hr to help cut GHG emissions, air pollution and road deaths and injuries.
I have a request to put a video on how to judge the left side while driving on narrow road
We are actually planning a video on how to maintain the correct road position, so keep a look out!
so how are going to do rev match if you are only using below 2,000 rpm
There is no need to rev match when eco-driving, as the gear changes should be smooth anyway.
about 6 seconds is needed to equate fuel to start an engine. as explained by engineering explained also practice the high gear at low rev at open roads
A question, regarding coasting. Let's assume the road I'm driving in is slightly angled down, such that if I press the clutch pedal all the way (coast), the car would maintain speed or even accelerate on its own, and on the other hand if I kept the clutch up, I would need to use the gas pedal to keep the car's speed up. Is it better to coast in this situation, and let the angle of the road accelerate the car, instead of using the gas?
This video might help: How To Avoid Coasting | Learning to drive: Car control skills ua-cam.com/video/UT9c4QwZd7c/v-deo.html
I'm assuming you don't have to come to a stop or otherwise slow down significantly at the bottom of the hill. If your car can maintain speed in neutral going downhill but begins losing speed with your highest gear engaged, then it would be most fuel efficient to coast in neutral. The engine has internal friction drag that increases with rpm. The fuel injectors must continually inject fuel to keep the engine running itself just in order to not create a drag torque on the crankshaft, and probably at an rpm significantly higher than idle at freeway speeds. Therefore more fuel will be burned to keep the engine running and producing zero torque at, say 2000 rpm, than at an idle speed of, say 800 rpm.
If your car actually gains speed in neutral going down the hill, then it is still more efficient to leave it in neutral. Placing the car in gear requires fuel to be burned just to maintain speed, and uses the engine very inefficiently at a very light load with maximal valvetrain flow energy loss, and robs the car of energy that could otherwise be built up in the form of increased kinetic energy and used to assist the car on the way up the next hill. However, as a disclaimer, coasting in neutral is not as safe as coasting in gear due to reduction of speed controllability.
Best tip
Never eat before drivingr
What's the accelerometer sensor that you have on the windshield in the center of the car?
Its called a ControlPal - we reviewed it here: ua-cam.com/video/G2RTr15iwZA/v-deo.html
Can I use heel-toe downshifting and double clutching when I eco drive?
If you like!
simply superb. despite being a "fuel" saver myself, there is a tip or two that i picked up from this video.
two quick questions. could you confirm if the "gallon" measure for diesel is 4.54609 litres per gallon? you also recommended switching the engine off if stopping for 30+ seconds. what is the corresponding metric for a petrol car?
thank you so much for your time.
Yes, that is the correct size for a U.K. gallon. In both a petrol or diesel car we will save fuel as soon as the engine is stopped - but we are wary of stopping the engine manually too often in case it wears the starter motor prematurely. On a car with ‘start/stop’ built in there will be a heavy duty starting system fitted as standard so it isn’t a problem 👍🏼
You can save 409 except for the fact that the fuel price will be going up as much as you're saving :)
i have a Tucson which is not fuel efficient, while it got manual and automatic gears
i was wondering if i use manual gears always would it be more fuel efficient than its automatic gears?
and in which rpm change gears
thanks in advance for any help guys
In an automatic car the most efficient option is to leave it in fully automatic mode, and focus on your driving technique - accelerate gently, reduce hard braking etc. Manually selecting gears will give more control but also use more fuel than staying in Drive.
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool Staying in a higher gear using the manual controls can save fuel, though. Some automatic gearboxes prioritize vehicle responsiveness over fuel efficiency. Also, no automatic gearbox is able to see what's ahead of it. A driver can, and sometimes may be able to be more efficient than the gearbox programming
I'm getting 70-78mpg in my petrol Toyota Aygo so I can't imagine there's much more I can do to improve it.
On the second trip I never see you go higher than 3rd gear even at 40mph, nobody does that.
Yes, exactly! I drove badly like that on purpose to show how not to drive!
Advance Driving School but wasn't it supposed to be normal driving just without extra consideration. The people this is aimed at wouldn't stay in 3rd anyway
What's that device on the dash? Is it a tilt meter or something?
It’s this: ControlPAL G-force meter | Product Review ua-cam.com/video/G2RTr15iwZA/v-deo.html 👍🏼
"Stop n Go" is saving fuel even at much shorter stops. If you do the numbers, i.e. calculate energy needed to recover the energy lost on cranking, stopping the engine for longer than 7-12 seconds is saving fuel. I've been an ecodriver for 30 years, and had never owned a car I couldn't drive slightly more economical in mixed average than the manufacturer's "extra urban" consumption figure. That included stopping the engine with the key whenever possible. If everyone follows your advice in this video, CO2 emission from transport would drop 30% and reduce global CO2 emission by 10%, Which is much more than even the Paris agreement is capable of. It is not American politicians changing the climate it is you and me, preferring convenience over anything else! Isn't ecodriving on the driving school curriculum in the UK?
There is no official curriculum for driving schools, we just do our best to teach new drivers all the skills they need to be a safe driver. On the driving test they do assess the driver for 'Eco-safe skills', but this doesn't affect the test result in any way. Of course, it is up to the individual to decide how they drive after they have passed, and from the low viewing figures for this video (compared to our others of the same age) you can see how few people are interested in improving their eco-driving skills. You might expect that saving 30% of their fuel bill would be an attraction, but I guess not!
With petrol engine 1.0 tsi engine my fuel consuption is 5.7-6.0 /100km on mixed roads.
My town has a lot of uphills and downhills.
Is that good fuel economy?
That depends on which car that engine is fitted to - look up your car’s official fuel economy figures and compare to that 👍🏼
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool wv polo 1.0 tsi.
In book it says 5.5l/100km(if I am not wrong) in urban but I think it is impossible because it was tasted in perfect condition.
I have so many hills and downhills and lot of other cars.
This is awesome thank you
My Hyundai Getz 1.4 2007 uses more gas/petrol coasting in gear than in neutral. It does not have a shutoff system. So your claim is wrong. It's enitrely dependant on the vehicle.
You shouldn't coast in neutral anyway as you have less control and no engine breaking. Coasting in neutral would fail a driving test.
Very usefull, but i don't think it's ok for turbo, egr, filter particle to run under 2 000rpm. A diesel engine work in perfect condition at 2200rpm aprox. But if you change the gear at 2000 and you accelerate from 1000 it's bad for the engine. I don't care about fuel economy if I harm the engine in long term use
It`s bad for a diesel engines because of the damage done to dual mass flywheel
what if im in an auto i just got my first car and its a 1997 toyota camry and it doesnt have very good fuel efficiency and i wanna try and save money
All the tips in this video will help - but in your car the best fuel economy possible will be far less. Look up the official figures for your car and try to beat those. Good luck!
👍 Great video! Thank u! :)
Hi what is the gadget in the middle of the screen called? circular with a cross in it...
It’s called a ControlPAL and measures G-forces to help drive more smoothly. We have reviewed it in a separate video 👍🏼
Thanks for the prompt reply!
Another question... lol . what did you use to track your location ie. the blue map that displays with the speed in the bottom left corner . 8:27 . ?
That is a function of the GoPro Hero 5 cameras we use - they record GPS data that can be used to generate the onscreen graphics 👍🏼
Thats a common misconception. The most fuel efficient way to accelerate of course differs between cars but generally its around three quarters throttle while staying somewhere in the 2000 rpm range. Being too gentle with throttle decreases overall engine efficiency mostly through increased pumping losses at the throttle valve.
This car is a diesel - so has no throttle valve! Perhaps the most efficient technique will vary depending on which type (petrol / diesel / hybrid / electric) of car you are driving - however in our experience we get the best results when accelerating gently.
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool in a diesel its fine to accelerate gently. Im talking petrol cause thats the more common engine in normal cars.
Keep in mind with the end prices british people might want to almost double that because of the actual new price of umm
£2 a litre (far too many $ a gallon)
or anyone with high prices too.
I don't get the claim that cruising in neutral doesn't use less fuel than lift and roll. When I cruise at 60 mph down a 2 mile motorway hill my tachometer displays 800 rpm. If I drive down the same hill at the same speed the tacho reads around 2700 or higher. Obviously that is because my throttle is closed when cruising. So how come I am using more fuel at 800rpm than at 2700rpm. If the ECU instructs the throttle to open when cruising how come my tacho doesnt record an increase in rpm from 800rpm. I have been able to put the car into 5th gear when the coasting car begins to slow without any incident I should add.
Can you answer that?
Is 38 mpg good for urban area driving?
That depends on the car, and how heavy the traffic is.
Hi beautiful voice I failed my driving test yesterday I am very disappointed I couldn't believe because I had very confedence to drive safe whatchin ur vedios help me a lot thanks
+Shugofa Hamdard Bad luck. Keep learning and you can pass next time hopefully!
This is amazing
I drive a 2014 1.4 petrol Kia Rio (A different variant of the car used in the test) I usually get 38 MPG around town. I live in Milton Keynes so my driving consists of forever accelerating to 50/60/70 MPH for a mile or two, then slowing or stopping for a roundabout. Must be the worst place to live for eco driving.
Do u accept international student into your driving school
Of course!
Advance Driving School - If coasting in neutral wastes fuel then why modern cars with automatic transmission have got coasting mode ? ( Just in case You didn't know... coasting mode is driving in neutral :)
Modern cars with automatic gearboxes are clever enough to disconnect and even shut down the engine to actually save fuel when coasting - but in a manual car we could not safely do this ourselves. This link gives more detail: www.pistonheads.com/news/ph-explains/what-is-a-coasting-function-ph-explains/39081
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool - So first you say it wastes fuel and now you turning it in to safety issues :)
That’s right. We even made this video about it: How To Avoid Coasting | Learn to drive: Car control skills ua-cam.com/video/UT9c4QwZd7c/v-deo.html
I always drived petrol and "slow accelerating" technique that I was taught would usually give me poor fuel consumption. Which worked best for me is "accelerate dynamically rather than lazily and then switch to the highest gear when reached desirable speed". I think the reason is that petrol engine is throttled if the accelerator is barely pressed and also driving on too low gear (lower than 2k rpm) is not good for the engine. Does that make sense?
When accelerating, keeping the engine revs low is key to good economy - so use enough throttle to keep up with the traffic flow, but change up as early as possible without ‘lugging’ the engine. This works the same in petrol and diesel cars - but the extra torque of a diesel allows earlier up-changes.
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool "extra torque of a diesel allows earlier up-changes"
What about damaging dual mass flywheel ? They don`t like very low revs
81 mpg on my Hyundai i20 2013 LOL!
78 mpg on Renault Clio 2013 ;)
100empg on my Tesla
he keep the feet on the clutch in the first place you gona burn it, the basis please!
Thank you for the tips! My mistake was listening to what someone mentioned about coasting (driving out of gear downhill etc.). Not only is it dangerous and takes longer to stop, I had no idea you are not using fuel just letting off the throttle and rolling. Since you still have revs i asssumed u still burn fuel but i guess thats not true?
You don’t burn fuel but if you lift the pedal and roll in gear the engine brakes you a bit so “your mileage may vary”
*meanwhile a Cadillac Eldorado 1966 passing by*
Tip 7: Don't coast in neutral. If that is the case then why are rpms so high where as if you coast they drop down. I ain't buying this.
The rpm is high because your wheels are rotating and the engine is connected to the tyres. So the tyres turn the engine for FREE. If you put it in neutral, then the engine is idling, which uses fuel. Having low rpm is beneficial only if you're ACCELERATING.
Coasting in neutral uses fuel to keep the engine running.
Thanks to chatgpt for showing me this video
Thank you so much can you do automatic car more vedio please 😂
Most things are the same in either car though - what would you like us to show you in the auto?
is the car wasting fuel when you pull off the accelerator? or it is the same than the manual car?
@@carlos.coronado Try to think of braking as wasting fuel. If you use your accelerator more precisely you won't have 'excess momentum' that needs to be wasted by using the brakes.
I learned lift and roll from Formula 1. Haha
The fast forward parts sound like an f1 car. Ha.
30 seconds is way to long. With a modern car you shut the engine of if you think you are idling for 10 seconds or longer.
He is driving on the wrong side of the road - edit: I just realized that the video must be reversed. Probably so that it wont be removed due to copyright issues.
No - we like to drive on the left 👍🏼
very good, shes got big feet though
I’d rather just floor it to be brutally honest.... I like sensation of being pushed back into the seat 😂
Ha ha - so do we sometimes! Have you seen our recent video where we visited a racing circuit?
@@AdvanceDrivingSchool Yes i have indeed... Was that Porsche a company car or one of ur personal ones?
That's our personal car 👍🏼
And switch the AC off if not needed!
9:!5 waaaait a minute.. Staying in lower gears more of the time is NOT normal driving!! Normal driving is as high of a gear as possible, as soon as possible.
You should have called it "Try to use fuel-driving".. Not "Normal driving"..
Not fair!! The fast forward ruined the economy 😉
By the way there is some wrong information in this video.
Lol annoying other drivers. That happens no matter what.
69
nice
Fkn hate eco-drivers
Why is that? Eco-driving doesn't mean driving slowly, so they shouldn't get in your way!
on these b roads you wont save time most of the time even if you drive like a maniac. lets say every 20 miles youll be able to be 2-3 minutes faster thats all.