Thank you for the video! I’m 22 and just started working as a sheet metal. They never showed us how to aluminium prep or how to apply alodine at school so this is helping out a lot!
How sad. Don't worry your chosen profession is filled with people who have no idea what or why they do things. No need to study because your boss is going to be just as dumb as the next guy and to walk into a business saying you graduated 1st in your class embarrasses the person your going to work for because they didn't study and barely passed their exams and failed to get their IA after 3 tries. You're in a profession where 85% are morons. Get out before it's too late. Go start your own HVAC business or be a garage collector, something where the profession has class, not some moron working on PoS aircraft.
It’s surprising to me how many videos about this just have them dumping it down the drain or into their driveway. It contains hexavalent chromium, about the nastiest stuff you can put in a bottle. It’s irresponsible (and usually illegal) to dump down the drain.
Many jurisdictions prohibit wastewater containing chromate (from the Alodine 1201) going down the municipal sewers these days. It needs to be collected and taken to be neutralized first. A local metal chrome plating shop might be willing to take such wastewater for processing with their own waste.
per 1201 MSDS: "...Inhalation: Inhalation of mists of this product may cause severe irritation and burns to the respiratory tract." You should at least provide a warning in your vid about this section of the MSDS. Clearly, you cannot conduct a video wearing a respirator, but continued use of cleaner, 1201, primer, and paint ALL warrant proper PPE including respirator use.
Love your video, have the obvious follow-up questions... How does stripper affect alodine? I am talking the normal paint/adhesive stripper like automotive store aircraft stripper. It wrinkles the paint and adhesive but does it affect alodine? How should I progress from stripped untreated aluminum through alodine to paint and/or adhesive application? I am doing an interior upgrade on my aircraft and therefore stripped my seat frames and I am looking to recover them soon with new materials. I'm looking for ideas regarding how to best protect the aluminum frame parts as I adhesive the new materials to the frame. I plan alodine then zinc phosphate primer (I'm in California where zinc chromate it forbidden) before adhesive. Any advice?
I do not believe non abrasive stripping will affect the alodine, although a color change would indicate so. Anything stripper wise you can buy at an auto parts store is some weak stuff and probably won't work very well. PPGH makes the old school stripper that really works. As far as the process, that's what we showed here. Have a pic of the seat frames? Lots of ideas, but basically prep the metal, then a good topcoat would usually work fine unless your in some really bad locale which would increase the chances of corrosion. Kind of hard to be specific when I can only guess what your working with
I worked at Boeing for 26 years. Here is the process they use. 1) wet the part with water 2) squirt some Alkaline cleaner on the part. 3) use Scotch Brite on a jitterbug sander to abrade the part. 4) this is taking to much time to explain
Well the prep process is the same. When I have a piece that is too large for an immersion bath I spray and keep wet until the process completes. Obviously keeping in mind safety procedures. Ie face mask gloves and respirator.
Great video. And yes. Not much info on the web. What is the open time on the treated surface? How long do you have before you have to paint the surface? Can you alodine one day and paint days later?
@@Steve340 thanks so much for such a quick response! So I just want to be clear for my dull brain. I need to apply a number of colors side by side and a band of gold leaf in the middle of them. The paint is self priming and the gold requires a specific primer. So I need to paint a color and let it dry. Paint another color etc. then prime for the gold leaf which cannot go over the paint. Am I able to paint and gold leaf over a period of a number of days with out an adhesion problem with the alodine because the unpainted areas will be left uncoated for several days. Thank you again!
This is great, I would like to know however if the aluminum prep 33 will eat away at hard black anodizing? I have an item that has a hard black anodized area on the outside and I would really like the alodine to stick, but am afraid of the prep 33.
@@jaime3576 well. I’m not sure what you Mean by prepare. I mean the anodizing is a top coat over the aluminum. Why are you looking to prep a surface like that
@@Steve340 only the outside of the box has hard black anodizing on it, then it was machined on the inside, so the outer shell of the box is hard black anoxized and the inside is raw aluminium, we need to alodine the inside, we cannot hard anodize it on the inside, it would not be as "per drawing", we need to alodine on the inside for corossion resistance and still maintain electrical conductivity
@@jaime3576 in that case just mask off the anodized surface. Apply the alumni prep with scotch brite if cladded and rock on. Just make sure to protect the anodizing
People come on! There has been a better way than this for about a decade now. It's called Prekote. It's Chromate free and completely non-toxic. Watch their video elsewhere on UA-cam. Approved by most if not all major manufacturers. Military has already completely switched over. It got a Boeing spec in 2008. I have been in aircraft painting since 1991 and I stopped using Alodine in 2007. Prekote is very forgiving and I get fewer peel offs and failed adhesion problems then I ever did using Alodine.
That "clad" your talking about is a layer 3%-5% the total thickness of the material that is pure aluminum. It's there for corrosion protection. When you talk about removing the "clad" you're talking about removing the pure aluminum corrosion protection in order to get the alodine to chemically corrode the surface. I laugh a lot at people who do the same thing not knowing they're destroying the material's ability to resist corrosion in order to apply corrosion resistance. Then whey you try to explain what they're doing is asinine , they give you a bewildered look, like a goat chewing briars.
Actually just had this debate with a person who worked for a manufacturer. He came from the airlines and prepped a few pieces and they had a cow. The SRM’s for repairs without exception tells you to alodine. All but Saab in my experience tell you to alumaprep before alodine. Saab specifically says not to alumaprep because it removes the factory corrosion prevention. As a side note because I’m lucky enough to have a few years in aviation I still see repairs I’ve done 20 plus years ago and there isn’t a spec of corrosion on them anywhere. Thanks for the input man.
@@Steve340 Like I said - staring at me like a goat chewing briars. Go ahead, get mad at me. What GD moron ruins the pure aluminum layer that is the best corrosion protection you can get in order to put a layer of corrosion protection on? What sense does that make? And by the way It's called etch and alodine not alumaprep and alodine. Take a GD piece of AlClad and don't scratch off the pure aluminum coating and then run it through the whole process. NOTICE HOW THE PURE ALUMINUM COATING DOESN'T CORRODE LIKE THE EDGES EVEN AFTER YOU SOAK IT IN YOUR ALUMAPREP ACID BATH? I know its difficult to explain something to someone who doesn't know any better and has decades of experience around others who don't know any better. That's 85% of maintenance - people who made such poor grades in school they went on to airplane mechanic school - and then didn't pay attention there and went on into the field where they didn't pay attention there - they're just sheep following the moron in front of them.
@@FISHH00KS ignoring your obviously hostile attitude. I say this. It’s your opinion man. I go by the SRM and have to date not seen one that says leave the clad untouched. Have a good day. And go get some emotional help man.
@@FISHH00KS not mad at you man, your like a liberal, keep spouting the same information regardless what comes back at you. To show I'm not facebook, ill leave your posts up here. One more ill flush it all down.
@@Steve340 That's what people do when someone points out deficiencies. Take them down, they aren't meant for anyone else. I quit working for others as an A&P I/A because I got tired of reading the specifics and technicalities along with the background on crap only to have others just do what they "saw" someone else do. Aviation is overflowing with people not smart or motivated enough to do anything else e.g. they're mentally lazy and that's why I went out on my own.
Thank you for the video! I’m 22 and just started working as a sheet metal. They never showed us how to aluminium prep or how to apply alodine at school so this is helping out a lot!
Thank you !!@
How sad. Don't worry your chosen profession is filled with people who have no idea what or why they do things. No need to study because your boss is going to be just as dumb as the next guy and to walk into a business saying you graduated 1st in your class embarrasses the person your going to work for because they didn't study and barely passed their exams and failed to get their IA after 3 tries. You're in a profession where 85% are morons. Get out before it's too late. Go start your own HVAC business or be a garage collector, something where the profession has class, not some moron working on PoS aircraft.
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO!! There is not much info on this process on the web. Very helpful.
Your welcome !!
Very nice hands on presentation, thanks!
Introducing these products directly into the waste stream (sink drain) is also NO BUENO. This is hazardous waste and should be disposed of properly.
It’s surprising to me how many videos about this just have them dumping it down the drain or into their driveway. It contains hexavalent chromium, about the nastiest stuff you can put in a bottle. It’s irresponsible (and usually illegal) to dump down the drain.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Thank you !
Many jurisdictions prohibit wastewater containing chromate (from the Alodine 1201) going down the municipal sewers these days. It needs to be collected and taken to be neutralized first. A local metal chrome plating shop might be willing to take such wastewater for processing with their own waste.
this is a industrial hangar, all the traps and precautions are in -place.
Great video! Prepping for my A&P oral and practicals. Thanks so much.
Thank you for this information. Great job
Glad it was helpful!
per 1201 MSDS: "...Inhalation: Inhalation of mists of this product may cause severe irritation and burns to the respiratory tract."
You should at least provide a warning in your vid about this section of the MSDS. Clearly, you cannot conduct a video wearing a respirator, but continued use of cleaner, 1201, primer, and paint ALL warrant proper PPE including respirator use.
Thank you so much! I needed a refresher for my Airframe O&P :)
Thanks. good demonstration and instructions.
Thank you!
What primer was that you used ?
Is it okay to get it on glass? I have an aluminum and glass garage door I’m restoring.
I don’t believe it will affect glass. Always best to try a small area. But I think your good
Is it yellow irridite?
Is a chemical conversion.
Love your video, have the obvious follow-up questions... How does stripper affect alodine? I am talking the normal paint/adhesive stripper like automotive store aircraft stripper. It wrinkles the paint and adhesive but does it affect alodine? How should I progress from stripped untreated aluminum through alodine to paint and/or adhesive application? I am doing an interior upgrade on my aircraft and therefore stripped my seat frames and I am looking to recover them soon with new materials. I'm looking for ideas regarding how to best protect the aluminum frame parts as I adhesive the new materials to the frame. I plan alodine then zinc phosphate primer (I'm in California where zinc chromate it forbidden) before adhesive. Any advice?
I do not believe non abrasive stripping will affect the alodine, although a color change would indicate so. Anything stripper wise you can buy at an auto parts store is some weak stuff and probably won't work very well. PPGH makes the old school stripper that really works. As far as the process, that's what we showed here. Have a pic of the seat frames? Lots of ideas, but basically prep the metal, then a good topcoat would usually work fine unless your in some really bad locale which would increase the chances of corrosion. Kind of hard to be specific when I can only guess what your working with
Use Acetone To Prep Bonds Way Better
I worked at Boeing for 26 years. Here is the process they use. 1) wet the part with water 2) squirt some Alkaline cleaner on the part. 3) use Scotch Brite on a jitterbug sander to abrade the part. 4) this is taking to much time to explain
lol Gotcha!
any advice on prepping curved sheet aluminum of approx. 4 m x 2.3 m with the same process in this video.
Well the prep process is the same. When I have a piece that is too large for an immersion bath I spray and keep wet until the process completes. Obviously keeping in mind safety procedures. Ie face mask gloves and respirator.
I alodine coated a flute. When it dries, is it safe?
Great video. And yes. Not much info on the web. What is the open time on the treated surface? How long do you have before you have to paint the surface? Can you alodine one day and paint days later?
No time limit to paint. Once it’s dry it can be primed.
@@Steve340 thanks so much for such a quick response! So I just want to be clear for my dull brain.
I need to apply a number of colors side by side and a band of gold leaf in the middle of them. The paint is self priming and the gold requires a specific primer.
So I need to paint a color and let it dry. Paint another color etc. then prime for the gold leaf which cannot go over the paint.
Am I able to paint and gold leaf over a period of a number of days with out an adhesion problem with the alodine because the unpainted areas will be left uncoated for several days.
Thank you again!
@@johnemmons9087👍
This is great, I would like to know however if the aluminum prep 33 will eat away at hard black anodizing? I have an item that has a hard black anodized area on the outside and I would really like the alodine to stick, but am afraid of the prep 33.
I would expect it would.
@@Steve340 Thank you! Do you know any other substance I could use to prepare the aluminium without damaging the outer area of anodizing?
@@jaime3576 well. I’m not sure what you
Mean by prepare. I mean the anodizing is a top coat over the aluminum. Why are you looking to prep a surface like that
@@Steve340 only the outside of the box has hard black anodizing on it, then it was machined on the inside, so the outer shell of the box is hard black anoxized and the inside is raw aluminium, we need to alodine the inside, we cannot hard anodize it on the inside, it would not be as "per drawing", we need to alodine on the inside for corossion resistance and still maintain electrical conductivity
@@jaime3576 in that case just mask off the anodized surface. Apply the alumni prep with scotch brite if cladded and rock on. Just make sure to protect the anodizing
People come on! There has been a better way than this for about a decade now. It's called Prekote. It's Chromate free and completely non-toxic. Watch their video elsewhere on UA-cam. Approved by most if not all major manufacturers. Military has already completely switched over. It got a Boeing spec in 2008. I have been in aircraft painting since 1991 and I stopped using Alodine in 2007. Prekote is very forgiving and I get fewer peel offs and failed adhesion problems then I ever did using Alodine.
That gold color is too dark.
It should be a lighter gold color with Alodine 1201.
Como sabemos se foi aplicado o Bonderite 4031 incolor?
Not sure what your asking 4031 is like superglue. Low odor.
Did you use an etch primer or just primer?
Epoxy not etching
Is there a maximum time limit between alodine and primer?
I see the answer below thanks
Nope, just prep and prime whenever. Obviously cannot abrade beforehand.
how do you prepare the alodyne????
The container will have mixing instructions. Some newer versions are not even diluted.
Sheet metal or aluminum??
Obviously didn’t list the alloy. 2024t3 most common aluminum.
How can you waste so much water??????
Well, we turn the handle to the left about an inch
What's the primer?
It’s an epoxy FR primer. Don’t have the p/n handy but each manufacturer has an epoxy primer
That "clad" your talking about is a layer 3%-5% the total thickness of the material that is pure aluminum. It's there for corrosion protection. When you talk about removing the "clad" you're talking about removing the pure aluminum corrosion protection in order to get the alodine to chemically corrode the surface.
I laugh a lot at people who do the same thing not knowing they're destroying the material's ability to resist corrosion in order to apply corrosion resistance. Then whey you try to explain what they're doing is asinine , they give you a bewildered look, like a goat chewing briars.
Actually just had this debate with a person who worked for a manufacturer. He came from the airlines and prepped a few pieces and they had a cow. The SRM’s for repairs without exception tells you to alodine. All but Saab in my experience tell you to alumaprep before alodine. Saab specifically says not to alumaprep because it removes the factory corrosion prevention. As a side note because I’m lucky enough to have a few years in aviation I still see repairs I’ve done 20 plus years ago and there isn’t a spec of corrosion on them anywhere. Thanks for the input man.
@@Steve340 Like I said - staring at me like a goat chewing briars. Go ahead, get mad at me. What GD moron ruins the pure aluminum layer that is the best corrosion protection you can get in order to put a layer of corrosion protection on? What sense does that make? And by the way It's called etch and alodine not alumaprep and alodine. Take a GD piece of AlClad and don't scratch off the pure aluminum coating and then run it through the whole process. NOTICE HOW THE PURE ALUMINUM COATING DOESN'T CORRODE LIKE THE EDGES EVEN AFTER YOU SOAK IT IN YOUR ALUMAPREP ACID BATH? I know its difficult to explain something to someone who doesn't know any better and has decades of experience around others who don't know any better. That's 85% of maintenance - people who made such poor grades in school they went on to airplane mechanic school - and then didn't pay attention there and went on into the field where they didn't pay attention there - they're just sheep following the moron in front of them.
@@FISHH00KS ignoring your obviously hostile attitude. I say this. It’s your opinion man. I go by the SRM and have to date not seen one that says leave the clad untouched. Have a good day. And go get some emotional help man.
@@FISHH00KS not mad at you man, your like a liberal, keep spouting the same information regardless what comes back at you. To show I'm not facebook, ill leave your posts up here. One more ill flush it all down.
@@Steve340 That's what people do when someone points out deficiencies. Take them down, they aren't meant for anyone else. I quit working for others as an A&P I/A because I got tired of reading the specifics and technicalities along with the background on crap only to have others just do what they "saw" someone else do. Aviation is overflowing with people not smart or motivated enough to do anything else e.g. they're mentally lazy and that's why I went out on my own.
You waste to much water on this video