Great episode, very informative. It's always fun to see a novice succeed. It's a very positive thing to portray, and genuinely helps to advance the hobby. Kudos on a job well done John!
Thanks! I purposely chose something not too hard. We will see how I do with some of the more ambitious projects I am considering for future episodes. Thanks again for watching!
There are many things I could say about this video and the comment replies you have already posted. But I think my most pertinent comment might simply be that I applaud your courage to try new things on camera (Yes, you may count that as a 'yes' vote) and that your doing so encourages me by removing some of the fear and doubt I have about installing a decoder in a 'non-DCC' locomotive model. Thank you.
Us drummer can do anything, install decoders, get Pizza, load trucks....you did a good job. Welcome to N scale the dark side of Model Railroading. Backroads
Thanks very much for this and the other N scale dcc install videos I've enjoyed on Trainmasters TV. I'm much less apprehensive about attempting an install on N scale and have better knowledge to diagnose the dcc failures that seem to haunt N scale locomotives. Well done John and Dan!
Hello you two. Time for "Michel's Critique"... lol! John, I can tell you do not solder much. Note that you do NOT place the tip of the iron on the metal and then plop the solder on the tip of the iron and HOPE all goes well. I am surprised Dan did not point this out to you. This can lead to what is called a 'cold solder joint'. You ALWAYS heat the metal with the tip, placing the solder on the metal/joint. When it gets hot enough, the solder will flow. Apply the solder to the metal/joint. Tinning one piece of the joint, or even both, is a good idea. That way you are most likely going to get the best flow of current. But again, never place the solder on the soldering iron tip, unless you are preparing the iron after cleaning the tip of excess 'crud' that builds up. One last thing; there are little 'clips' of metal , called heat sinks, usually made of aluminum, that you can place between the joint and the plastic. This will help in keeping the heat from melting what you don't want to be ruined.
I use Acid Core solder when joining hard brass or copper for structural integrity (locomotive frames, boilers), makes for a stronger joint than rosin core, but in my experience has been a little more difficult to work with.
Thanks! I have been a trainer in previous lives and figure to just explain stuff the way it makes sense to me. If it worked for you, you must also be a genius. :)
Nice Job. I had a question that you answered for me, can I solder the motor tabs. I have an set of F7s that I installed a drop in decoder and did not seem to work, but I now believe that the little plastic tab that is supposed to hold those contact to the board are not making proper contact, so thanks guys.
I liked that. I have a lot of trepidation doing decoder installs, probably because what should have been a no brainer install on an Atlas Rs-3 burned up 2 decoders for reasons that I still don't understand. Did you figure out why there was no horn??
The horn and lights worked fine after we lifted the loco off the tracks and set it back down. I had another problem that had to be solved in my road test which will be revealed in an upcoming episode of John's Models.
It was pretty easy! I just needed to read about it, make sure I had the proper tools (especially the Kapton tape), and some time set aside to try something new.
Hey I'm getting a weird issue, decoders are installed and programmed on both my p42s. All functions well until I MU them. The lead locomotive sound will start up when addressed and shutdown once unaddressed while the trailing loco will start as soon as I turn on track power. It will stay on until I turn off track power unless I release it from consist. They will run fine otherwise together this is weird and annoying.
Interesting how the decoder in the first loco would “work” without the motor connected to it. Most decoders refuse to accept CV changes unless there’s a load on the motor connections. (I usually stick a lightbulb on temporarily.)
Right. But many apply power to the motor for a short while to acknowledge programming commands. It there’s no load, though, these decoders will not accept any programming. (They will still respond by executing all the actions, though.)
Right. All we did was to set the address as the loco number and see if the sound and lights were switching on and off. Did not actually try to change any motor control CVs. I still need to speed match these things... Probably coming soon to a "John's Models" episode near you.
It is IMPARATIVE when performing an operation like this that you wash your hands THOROUGHLY before proceeding! You do NOT want to impart the salts and oils (never mind any dirt) from your skin onto these delicate parts. Copper parts are especially vulnerable to corrosion.
Great episode, very informative. It's always fun to see a novice succeed. It's a very positive thing to portray, and genuinely helps to advance the hobby. Kudos on a job well done John!
Thanks! I purposely chose something not too hard. We will see how I do with some of the more ambitious projects I am considering for future episodes. Thanks again for watching!
Great video, just did one myself, and the soldering of the motor clips was a life saver! Thanks!
There are many things I could say about this video and the comment replies you have already posted. But I think my most pertinent comment might simply be that I applaud your courage to try new things on camera (Yes, you may count that as a 'yes' vote) and that your doing so encourages me by removing some of the fear and doubt I have about installing a decoder in a 'non-DCC' locomotive model. Thank you.
LOL! At least one other person has voted "other" already!!!
I saw that too!
Us drummer can do anything, install decoders, get Pizza, load trucks....you did a good job. Welcome to N scale the dark side of Model Railroading. Backroads
Hey Backroads you might enjoy this video from my other channel: ua-cam.com/video/zMxjoBsSbU8/v-deo.html
Thanks John I did. Backroads
Great Video John, I am glad that this is your first model to Install A DCC Decoder
Thanks again for watching!
Nicely done John! I wouldn't mind seeing another episode of John's Models.
He was so excited, it was awesome, welcome to model railroad jonh,your stuck for life....
Yeah you should see Dan's smirk when I start talking to him about the plans I have for my amazing models.
Thanks very much for this and the other N scale dcc install videos I've enjoyed on Trainmasters TV. I'm much less apprehensive about attempting an install on N scale and have better knowledge to diagnose the dcc failures that seem to haunt N scale locomotives. Well done John and Dan!
That was the whole idea! Thanks for watching!
Good job John. welcome to the brotherhood of modellers.
Thanks Roy, I will never be hardcore guy like Dan is, but I can have fun with stuff that looks and runs really good.
Excellent tutorial. Exactly what I was hoping. This is relatively simple installation.
Good job there, John. Welcome to the brotherhood of modellers.
Thanks Nate! The most important part of all this is that I'm trying new things and having fun doing it.
I want to see John weather a model, that'll be fun.
Love your shows. You two make a great team!
Thanks! We're just trying to have fun and promote the hobby in a straight forward and honest way.
Hello you two. Time for "Michel's Critique"... lol! John, I can tell you do not solder much. Note that you do NOT place the tip of the iron on the metal and then plop the solder on the tip of the iron and HOPE all goes well. I am surprised Dan did not point this out to you. This can lead to what is called a 'cold solder joint'. You ALWAYS heat the metal with the tip, placing the solder on the metal/joint. When it gets hot enough, the solder will flow. Apply the solder to the metal/joint. Tinning one piece of the joint, or even both, is a good idea. That way you are most likely going to get the best flow of current. But again, never place the solder on the soldering iron tip, unless you are preparing the iron after cleaning the tip of excess 'crud' that builds up. One last thing; there are little 'clips' of metal , called heat sinks, usually made of aluminum, that you can place between the joint and the plastic. This will help in keeping the heat from melting what you don't want to be ruined.
I also don't see small things very well. In the end it worked.
I use Acid Core solder when joining hard brass or copper for structural integrity (locomotive frames, boilers), makes for a stronger joint than rosin core, but in my experience has been a little more difficult to work with.
you are a great teacher, great job
Thanks! I have been a trainer in previous lives and figure to just explain stuff the way it makes sense to me. If it worked for you, you must also be a genius. :)
Great decoder install, John! I hope you'll soon show us all the iPhone clips of your first-ever install.
-from Tom Pilling
Great video like always
Awesome!
Dan....I mean John great installation!!!!
Thanks Nick, just wait for the road test. Oh wait I already showed you the best part. :))
Very nice. You should do a dans build and build a layout from scratch.
That is in the works... Stay tuned!
Nice Job. I had a question that you answered for me, can I solder the motor tabs. I have an set of F7s that I installed a drop in decoder and did not seem to work, but I now believe that the little plastic tab that is supposed to hold those contact to the board are not making proper contact, so thanks guys.
I liked that. I have a lot of trepidation doing decoder installs, probably because what should have been a no brainer install on an Atlas Rs-3 burned up 2 decoders for reasons that I still don't understand. Did you figure out why there was no horn??
The horn and lights worked fine after we lifted the loco off the tracks and set it back down. I had another problem that had to be solved in my road test which will be revealed in an upcoming episode of John's Models.
That looked easy!
It was pretty easy! I just needed to read about it, make sure I had the proper tools (especially the Kapton tape), and some time set aside to try something new.
Will this work with Kato E9A loco ?
If you're going to create John's models, Dan is going to start having to wear a disguise!
I want him to wear one of those giant rainbow afro wigs.
Hey I'm getting a weird issue, decoders are installed and programmed on both my p42s. All functions well until I MU them. The lead locomotive sound will start up when addressed and shutdown once unaddressed while the trailing loco will start as soon as I turn on track power. It will stay on until I turn off track power unless I release it from consist. They will run fine otherwise together this is weird and annoying.
That sounds truly bizarre! I'd call Digitrax and get some help with that!
I have an open ticket now. So when you change the address from the leader of the consist both units go silent?
Should have taken the sticker piece off the speaker and seen how it sounded, I'm curios now
Interesting how the decoder in the first loco would “work” without the motor connected to it. Most decoders refuse to accept CV changes unless there’s a load on the motor connections. (I usually stick a lightbulb on temporarily.)
That seems weird to me. The decoder has functions whether the motor is connected or not.
Right. But many apply power to the motor for a short while to acknowledge programming commands. It there’s no load, though, these decoders will not accept any programming. (They will still respond by executing all the actions, though.)
Right. All we did was to set the address as the loco number and see if the sound and lights were switching on and off. Did not actually try to change any motor control CVs. I still need to speed match these things... Probably coming soon to a "John's Models" episode near you.
Ah, makes sense then. Neat! Looking forward to seeing those.
Just a thought, you could publish your cell phone video on this month's fifth Friday if you guys are still at a loss for something to post.
I considered that but the poll seems to be overwhelmingly "yes" so the second part, which is actually the first install, will come out next time.
The poll results weren't surprising. lol
Yes, but I still needed to ask the question. :)
So the other install is scheduled for next time, then the road test comes 2 weeks after that.
Do you have any Superliners to pull behind them?
Does this same installation process work on the kato E8 or PA1?
As long as you have the right decoder, it should be very similar to this, as all Kato diesels look almost identical under the shell.
@@tsgmultimedia Thanks, got to try this. If it doesn't work I will put it in my P42.
@@Tom_4884 Just make sure you're using the right decoder for your model. If you get the wrong one, it might not fit.
It is IMPARATIVE when performing an operation like this that you wash your hands THOROUGHLY before proceeding! You do NOT want to impart the salts and oils (never mind any dirt) from your skin onto these delicate parts. Copper parts are especially vulnerable to corrosion.
Yeah johns models lol
johns layout build....
Maybe some day.