Nice motor. Some rust removal, nice mint green powdercoat, cleaning, greasing of the bearings, and you’d have an antique that would look and operate like brand new
That motor probably ran some long-dismantled machine for decades. And for it it spin up so easily.... They really did make great things once upon a time, didn't they?
They certainly did, it's a bit of a lost art these days. Once upon a time, a group of engineers would huddle around a table and ask "How can we make the best machine possible?". Now it's a group of middle management huddled around the table asking "How can we make the cheapest machine possible?"
Runs fine and the old babbitt bearings will last forever with a bit of lube and can be repoured with not much trouble if need be. Hope all is well and THANKS! BLESSINGS 2 U as well
That it runs is not a surprise, unless something bad had happened to the windings or the bearings these will run forever. After all, the only moving parts are the bearings. Thanks for the video.
Ive seen my father using lots of these Brooks motors for building compressors. He used to buy as many of the 3hp single phase motors ( identified by a a large cylinder on the rear of the motor and contained the capacitor centrifugal switch ) as he could find in scrapyards as they had a lot of starting torque that was ideal for compressors
That's a nice story Nick, thanks for sharing! Yes I'm sure it would be good on a compressor, maybe it even came off one back in the day. No telling now of course. I've still not done anything with this one since this video, but it's sat somewhere warm and dry and enjoying the good life.
Nothing wrong with these bearings like the other person has said, you just need to tighten the greasers regularly. My engines are not roller bearings and they are not worn out after 100 plus years.
Best to let it run while monitoring winding temperature for at least an hour to bake out moisture. Then a good cleaning and coating of any loose or suspect wire with Glytol.
Earth leakage with motors that old which have been sitting around for a long time is not uncommon, in fact its almost normal. Its a nicew one, would love a sand blast and restoration.
Ay thanks Mike. Yes a little flash-over or leakage on the first run is understandable, probably a bit of damp dust over the contacts. Once it got zapped it was alright. I agree, pulling it apart and sand-blasting the casting would give a very smart motor. Perhaps I'll get to it some day! I actually have a few much larger motors on my drive covered with a tarp, I hope to give them a go at some point, they are very old too. Thanks for stopping by!
Years late -- but no smoking, no burning, nothing. Just give it what it wants and it works, don't and it won't break! As expected of anything 100 years old, built to last.
Interesting to here someone in the UK say ground instead of earth. Also an imperial shaft size call out. Never give in! I love old quality built machinery.
by luck, my house has a three phase plug, tho, since i live in france, its either going to be 230v three phase or 380v three phase as 415 is not a standard in france, and its also gonna be 50hz. tho im lucky to have three phase to my house. finally, im about to buy a three phase siren, but two things arise : first, is it 230v or 380v for the plug, since we dont wanna run it off the wrong voltage, well, we destroy this question as the siren accepts both according to the motor label, and second, air raid sirens are meant to be run without any softstarting mechanism, which, explains their fast startup. so, no VFD or softstarter is needed too. (edit for those who dont understand why im saying this : he does not have a three phase plug in his house, but i do, so thats why i say this.)
An interesting motor but more a boat anchor because it doesn't have ball bearings and it will wear quickly under load unless lubricated frequently. I was glad when I saw the last of this type of motor used in industry.
Thanks Richyee, must admit I thought it had ball bearings, perhaps it's bushes then? As you say, important to keep them greased up. I suppose in the 1920's electric motors were still a fairly new thing and none had gotten old enough to make judgements on the best-lasting bearings. We've got another 100 years of experience since then! Still, this one is still going which is nice, but I'm not likely to use it for anything heavy. I suppose I could, with care, hone out the casting, machine the rotor and tap in roller bearings. A lot of effort though, could just buy a new one...
Hello. That’s a very interesting video, a testament to British engineering. I wonder if you could give me some advise please? I’ve just bought a 1960s Colchester master lathe, with a 3hp 440v 3 phase motor, I’d like to keep the original motor and use a vfd, like yours, as my motor is old, it cannot be configured to delta, so I need a vfd that will run a star configuration, your one seems to do this, I’m in Staines, uk. Do you have any details of where you got that vfd from and maybe any advise about compatibility? Thanks. Dave.
@@TheAmazingAdventuresOfMiles Hello. Thanks for the reply, I've just seen it. My motor has 6 wires going to it because its a 2 speed lathe and can only be in star configuration, after getting some help from a lathe Internet site, I've got it running on a rotary phase converter, that I got for £20 but it's not powerful to fun the lathe in the high speed setting, so I've ordered a 7.5 hp vfd from china, hopefully it turns up soon.
Yes you do. A 415v 3 phase supply is just three 230v phases, spaced 1/3 of a cycle apart (or 0.006r seconds). So, phase-to-neutral should read 230v, but phase-to-phase should be about 415v, as the waves positions are on opposite sides of neutral for two thirds of a cycle.
Hiya Jaeden, I can try and get a recording of the start up sound if that's what you like, although it's not a very big motor (I can pick it up, just!). Interestingly enough I've got out the back a much larger DC motor from the 1920's sat on a pallet, I saved it from the scrapy, but I've never tried to apply power to it. It's about 300kg and if it does work (and I should think that it will, with a bit of TLC) it'll probably make quite a nice electrical fzfzzzzz noise. If I get a bit of peace and quiet any time soon I'll give it a go! Thanks, Miles
After videos like that, people start thinking insulation is measured with ohmmeter, which is not true. Insulation should be measured by insulation meter. Difference between them is a much higher voltage.
Yes, as I do say this is just a basic test for shorts and such, obviously a HV flash test on a PAT machine would be the best and I'd certainly do that if this motor was going to be used in a commercial setting. But it's an antique, I just wanted to see if it worked, it was grounded and there was nothing at all unsafe about this. Many people probably wouldn't have even bothered with a resistance test at all. This is not an electrical motor maintenance training video and if people are maintaining commercial motors in live industrial applications based not on years of attending electrical engineering college but on what they saw some guy do at home on the Internet, they need evaluate their life choices and so does whoever employs them.
@@TheAmazingAdventuresOfMiles Im afraid most people using YT are learning from movies and getting completly everything as a true. Even people working as electricians at hospitals - dont ask me how I know this...
@@norbert.kiszka Wow. If an electrician working in a hospital has only learnt the trade from home videos on youTube then I guess they are in the right place for when it goes wrong. Assuming they don't burn the place down, that is. I can't speak for other countries but in the UK you cannot sell your services as an electrician unless you have a string of qualifications and assessments, nor can a customer employ someone who doesn't have them. All works done needs to follow a strict set of approved government-mandated procedures, so it's a pretty tight system that prevents have-a-go types from carrying out commercial electrical work. That said, I'm a big believer in natural selection and if someone wants to play with something dangerous when they have no idea what they are doing, they will either be good at it and survive or bad at it and die. It's just evolution doing it's thing, we shouldn't interfere too far.
@@TheAmazingAdventuresOfMiles in Poland You can literally buy qualifications on a paper. After that, people are working at hospitals. Also, they "learn" from random YT videos.
Using an Ohm meter to "check" a motor is the WORST THING u can do. Better do a HIGH VOLTAGE ISOLATION measurement - and aftter THAT, its safe for operation ^^
Hi Fellpower. Well yes a PAT test is always best, but this motor isn't being commissioned back into industrial operation on some operators machine. It's just an old motor I picked up and wanted to see if it still span, I'm perfectly happy to accept the precautions I've taken for my test purposes. It's bonded to ground, has RCD protection, and the insulation resistance is uniformly high. That's more than satisfactory for me to give it a little test for my own curiosity and I accept the negligible personal risk in doing so. But yes, if I was commissioning a motor for commercial installation into an industrial setting, it would be wise to do a full PAT test and report.
I think that for the purposes of just testing it out to see if it would spin the ohms test is a fine way to find obvious shorts. IMHO, if I was to put it to use I would probably take it apart, clean and bake-out the windings and do a shellac or cambric dip to refresh any cracked enamel insulation on the windings. A "megger" test (also called Hi-Pot) would give you the starting and finishing point for the before-during and after refurbishment. Quite often if the motor has sat in a damp basement or garage for +30 years you are going to get moisture saturation that needs to be baked out (sometimes baking in combination with a vacuum tank, that is how we maintained the big, 1.1 MegaWatt motors for oil pipeline service (1500 HP). Also, when those weren't running they had little electric heater strips beneath the windings to keep them warm and dry. (just a few hundred watts, on constantly). Things like a ground-fault detector may be tripping at 5 mA of ground-return current. Using ohms law the running resistance (at mains voltage may be less than 48 kiloOhms) (assuming 240 volts mains). The measurement difference between 9 megaOhms on a DVM and
Bonjour Cristof48! Really great to hear from you. Yes it comes from an era when manufacturers wanted to make things as good as they could, not like todays race-to-the-bottom.
Thanks Zwarst. I was wondering about using it to power my saw-bench, but I'm not sure if it's got enough grunt for that. Maybe I can put it on my eBike!
The Stator is the part of the motor windings that is static (as in, doesn't move) and Ohms are a measurement unit for electrical resistance. A Megaohm is simply a million ohms.
Nice motor. Some rust removal, nice mint green powdercoat, cleaning, greasing of the bearings, and you’d have an antique that would look and operate like brand new
*OLD IS GOLD 🥇*
That motor probably ran some long-dismantled machine for decades. And for it it spin up so easily....
They really did make great things once upon a time, didn't they?
They certainly did, it's a bit of a lost art these days. Once upon a time, a group of engineers would huddle around a table and ask "How can we make the best machine possible?". Now it's a group of middle management huddled around the table asking "How can we make the cheapest machine possible?"
Or a lift probably guessing by the size of it
Runs fine and the old babbitt bearings will last forever with a bit of lube and can be repoured with not much trouble if need be. Hope all is well and THANKS! BLESSINGS 2 U as well
That it runs is not a surprise, unless something bad had happened to the windings or the bearings these will run forever. After all, the only moving parts are the bearings.
Thanks for the video.
Thanks to Nikola Tesla for inventing the induction motor. He was a genius!
Very cool! I love the sounds that thing makes.
I’m sure in it’s heyday when it was on brutal pure 50hz mains, there was a mega hum.
Ive seen my father using lots of these Brooks motors for building compressors. He used to buy as many of the 3hp single phase motors ( identified by a a large cylinder on the rear of the motor and contained the capacitor centrifugal switch ) as he could find in scrapyards as they had a lot of starting torque that was ideal for compressors
That's a nice story Nick, thanks for sharing! Yes I'm sure it would be good on a compressor, maybe it even came off one back in the day. No telling now of course. I've still not done anything with this one since this video, but it's sat somewhere warm and dry and enjoying the good life.
Nothing wrong with these bearings like the other person has said, you just need to tighten the greasers regularly. My engines are not roller bearings and they are not worn out after 100 plus years.
Best to let it run while monitoring winding temperature for at least an hour to bake out moisture. Then a good cleaning and coating of any loose or suspect wire with Glytol.
cute ol thing! almost looks like it has a little smiling face on it! LOL Love it.
😊 thank you
Thats a Beautiful Motor.
Thank you sir :)
Incredible! You must invent something!
lol thank you. I have some ideas!
Earth leakage with motors that old which have been sitting around for a long time is not uncommon, in fact its almost normal. Its a nicew one, would love a sand blast and restoration.
Ay thanks Mike. Yes a little flash-over or leakage on the first run is understandable, probably a bit of damp dust over the contacts. Once it got zapped it was alright. I agree, pulling it apart and sand-blasting the casting would give a very smart motor. Perhaps I'll get to it some day! I actually have a few much larger motors on my drive covered with a tarp, I hope to give them a go at some point, they are very old too. Thanks for stopping by!
Years late -- but no smoking, no burning, nothing. Just give it what it wants and it works, don't and it won't break! As expected of anything 100 years old, built to last.
So jealous... 😂😂😂
That's a noice piece of history right there...
Interesting to here someone in the UK say ground instead of earth. Also an imperial shaft size call out. Never give in! I love old quality built machinery.
by luck, my house has a three phase plug, tho, since i live in france, its either going to be 230v three phase or 380v three phase as 415 is not a standard in france, and its also gonna be 50hz. tho im lucky to have three phase to my house.
finally, im about to buy a three phase siren, but two things arise : first, is it 230v or 380v for the plug, since we dont wanna run it off the wrong voltage, well, we destroy this question as the siren accepts both according to the motor label, and second, air raid sirens are meant to be run without any softstarting mechanism, which, explains their fast startup. so, no VFD or softstarter is needed too.
(edit for those who dont understand why im saying this : he does not have a three phase plug in his house, but i do, so thats why i say this.)
Beautiful piece
Thank you!
thanks for the video !
Nice kit and a interesting video.
Dang!! I have checked the resistance on modern 3 phase motors that did not have resistance values that close on their phases!
An interesting motor but more a boat anchor because it doesn't have ball bearings and it will wear quickly under load unless lubricated frequently. I was glad when I saw the last of this type of motor used in industry.
Thanks Richyee, must admit I thought it had ball bearings, perhaps it's bushes then? As you say, important to keep them greased up. I suppose in the 1920's electric motors were still a fairly new thing and none had gotten old enough to make judgements on the best-lasting bearings. We've got another 100 years of experience since then! Still, this one is still going which is nice, but I'm not likely to use it for anything heavy. I suppose I could, with care, hone out the casting, machine the rotor and tap in roller bearings. A lot of effort though, could just buy a new one...
Thats Cool !
Hello.
That’s a very interesting video, a testament to British engineering.
I wonder if you could give me some advise please?
I’ve just bought a 1960s Colchester master lathe, with a 3hp 440v 3 phase motor, I’d like to keep the original motor and use a vfd, like yours, as my motor is old, it cannot be configured to delta, so I need a vfd that will run a star configuration, your one seems to do this, I’m in Staines, uk.
Do you have any details of where you got that vfd from and maybe any advise about compatibility?
Thanks. Dave.
Hiya David
Yes that VFD is just a cheap one off ebay, I think I paid about 50 quid for it. Does your motor have the six terminal posts?
@@TheAmazingAdventuresOfMiles Hello.
Thanks for the reply, I've just seen it.
My motor has 6 wires going to it because its a 2 speed lathe and can only be in star configuration, after getting some help from a lathe Internet site, I've got it running on a rotary phase converter, that I got for £20 but it's not powerful to fun the lathe in the high speed setting, so I've ordered a 7.5 hp vfd from china, hopefully it turns up soon.
nice 😃
but you weren't getting 415v out of the drive from a 240v supply were you?
Yes you do. A 415v 3 phase supply is just three 230v phases, spaced 1/3 of a cycle apart (or 0.006r seconds). So, phase-to-neutral should read 230v, but phase-to-phase should be about 415v, as the waves positions are on opposite sides of neutral for two thirds of a cycle.
Startup sound?
Hiya Jaeden, I can try and get a recording of the start up sound if that's what you like, although it's not a very big motor (I can pick it up, just!). Interestingly enough I've got out the back a much larger DC motor from the 1920's sat on a pallet, I saved it from the scrapy, but I've never tried to apply power to it. It's about 300kg and if it does work (and I should think that it will, with a bit of TLC) it'll probably make quite a nice electrical fzfzzzzz noise. If I get a bit of peace and quiet any time soon I'll give it a go! Thanks, Miles
After videos like that, people start thinking insulation is measured with ohmmeter, which is not true. Insulation should be measured by insulation meter. Difference between them is a much higher voltage.
You are absolutely right. An ohmmeter uses very low voltage, which doesn't put dieelectric insulation breakdown to the test.
Yes, as I do say this is just a basic test for shorts and such, obviously a HV flash test on a PAT machine would be the best and I'd certainly do that if this motor was going to be used in a commercial setting. But it's an antique, I just wanted to see if it worked, it was grounded and there was nothing at all unsafe about this. Many people probably wouldn't have even bothered with a resistance test at all.
This is not an electrical motor maintenance training video and if people are maintaining commercial motors in live industrial applications based not on years of attending electrical engineering college but on what they saw some guy do at home on the Internet, they need evaluate their life choices and so does whoever employs them.
@@TheAmazingAdventuresOfMiles Im afraid most people using YT are learning from movies and getting completly everything as a true. Even people working as electricians at hospitals - dont ask me how I know this...
@@norbert.kiszka Wow. If an electrician working in a hospital has only learnt the trade from home videos on youTube then I guess they are in the right place for when it goes wrong. Assuming they don't burn the place down, that is.
I can't speak for other countries but in the UK you cannot sell your services as an electrician unless you have a string of qualifications and assessments, nor can a customer employ someone who doesn't have them. All works done needs to follow a strict set of approved government-mandated procedures, so it's a pretty tight system that prevents have-a-go types from carrying out commercial electrical work.
That said, I'm a big believer in natural selection and if someone wants to play with something dangerous when they have no idea what they are doing, they will either be good at it and survive or bad at it and die. It's just evolution doing it's thing, we shouldn't interfere too far.
@@TheAmazingAdventuresOfMiles in Poland You can literally buy qualifications on a paper. After that, people are working at hospitals. Also, they "learn" from random YT videos.
Using an Ohm meter to "check" a motor is the WORST THING u can do. Better do a HIGH VOLTAGE ISOLATION measurement - and aftter THAT, its safe for operation ^^
Hi Fellpower. Well yes a PAT test is always best, but this motor isn't being commissioned back into industrial operation on some operators machine. It's just an old motor I picked up and wanted to see if it still span, I'm perfectly happy to accept the precautions I've taken for my test purposes. It's bonded to ground, has RCD protection, and the insulation resistance is uniformly high. That's more than satisfactory for me to give it a little test for my own curiosity and I accept the negligible personal risk in doing so. But yes, if I was commissioning a motor for commercial installation into an industrial setting, it would be wise to do a full PAT test and report.
I think that for the purposes of just testing it out to see if it would spin the ohms test is a fine way to find obvious shorts.
IMHO, if I was to put it to use I would probably take it apart, clean and bake-out the windings and do a shellac or cambric dip to refresh any cracked enamel insulation on the windings. A "megger" test (also called Hi-Pot) would give you the starting and finishing point for the before-during and after refurbishment. Quite often if the motor has sat in a damp basement or garage for +30 years you are going to get moisture saturation that needs to be baked out (sometimes baking in combination with a vacuum tank, that is how we maintained the big, 1.1 MegaWatt motors for oil pipeline service (1500 HP). Also, when those weren't running they had little electric heater strips beneath the windings to keep them warm and dry. (just a few hundred watts, on constantly).
Things like a ground-fault detector may be tripping at 5 mA of ground-return current. Using ohms law the running resistance (at mains voltage may be less than 48 kiloOhms) (assuming 240 volts mains).
The measurement difference between 9 megaOhms on a DVM and
Anyone else think he sounds like Adrian Newey?
ho yes ! it will turn ! it's not a 100 year old cheap chinise one .....
Bonjour Cristof48! Really great to hear from you. Yes it comes from an era when manufacturers wanted to make things as good as they could, not like todays race-to-the-bottom.
Have you thought of something useful to do with it? Make a good grinder for an axe or boot polisher, something light & infrequent.
Thanks Zwarst. I was wondering about using it to power my saw-bench, but I'm not sure if it's got enough grunt for that. Maybe I can put it on my eBike!
What was that motor for?
On low voltage 3 phase motor 1&7, 2&8, 3&9, 456 it's ran right but which set would be nuetral. L1, L2, L3
No nuetral.
you are thinking usa motor 230/460
How much does it weigh and what’s the model/power of the vfd?
hmmm well the VFD is 2kw I think. It's just an unbranded Chinese one, nothing fancy. The motor weighs maybe 25kg? I'm only guessing.
full specs please ??
I would restore this beast
so you reverse it with rearranged the three phase from controller is it?
Yes the motor controller does it, presumably by reversing the phase sequence.
Is it made for 208 or 480 3 phase those are the two standard three-phase systems
Here in UK the phase to phase voltage at the time the motor was made was typically 415-433 volts.
UK has vastly different electrical standards and regulations then America
Hi.....i have 100year old england motor.but i don,t no how to supply?
Hello. Depends what kind of motor it is. It could be DC, single phase, or three phase. Does it have a plate on it providing identification?
I'm guessing it was used for a elevator lift 😊
Più bellino dei motori moderni, hai voglia....
Old useless inefficient thing. Just like me... Thanks for showing.
Weld it to a pedal bike 😁
That would be cool, but I think the operating voltage would be a bit of a problem. 3hp would be quite powerful for an electric bike.
000
STATTUR ??? MEGGEROHMS ??? WTF Are you Saying?
The Stator is the part of the motor windings that is static (as in, doesn't move) and Ohms are a measurement unit for electrical resistance. A Megaohm is simply a million ohms.
Pronounced Staytor and Megohms.