Firmer hydraulic road brakes in 5 minutes | Syd Fixes Bikes
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- Lever bleeds are quick and surprisingly easy and make a huge difference in how your brakes feel. Doing it yourself will also save you a lot of money!
What you'll need:
Allen keys: bit.ly/34o380i
Shimano hydraulic mineral oil: bit.ly/3oXmMti
Bleeding funnel: bit.ly/2SzuYnL
Funnel adapter: bit.ly/3yG7o9f
Other things in the shed:
Our toolkit: bit.ly/337LfDf
Work stand: bit.ly/3mTXStc
Tool pegboard: amzn.to/3mTYlLY
Syd's apron: amzn.to/345MbHz
Paint pens: amzn.to/2TpCL4u
00:00 Intro
00:27 What you'll need
00:47 Why should you do this?
03:00 How to lever bleed road brakes
12:16 How to lever bleed road brakes in one minute
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Followed this technique on my Campagnolo hydraulic brakes and had the same results. I used the Campagnolo bleeding kit, opening only the lever bleed port, screwing in the syringe (finger tight) and adding a bit of mineral oil. Alternated short lever throws, long pauses, longer lever throws, until I was satisfied with the brake feel and I couldn’t see more bubbled coming up. Got the lever feeling I was looking for. Also, as you pointed out, I didn’t use the bleeding block - I installed new pads and followed this procedure (naturally, wheel on). The internet seems full of Shimano and SRAM content - so I hope Campy users out there know they can do this too.
Well done Syd and Macky. Another great tutorial.
You're videos are awesome. I don't know much about my bike but your videos give me the confidence to do repairs and maintenance on it myself.
I just bought my first bike with hydraulic brakes. I thought I would probably have to take the bike to the shop anytime I have brake issues. Your channel brakes down your presentations so even I can do it. Thanks for what you do.
Cool, that’s how I do my drop handlebar bikes. I feel validated!
Awesome seeing you walk through this maintenance. Hope it’s as easy when I try to do it 😂😂
Best thing on UA-cam!
I like how this feels like an oral recitation exam when Macky ask you a question and you starts to explain😆 I remembered my face to face class🤣
U R awesome, You've made knowledge so fun! Thank You Madamme.
Like the "whoop" sound effect!
but griII usually dont fix their own bike tho
If you lossen the stem and tilt the bars up and down while pumping the lever you'll get all of the air bubbles out.
Please get a SRAM equipped bikes so you can show me how to bleed SRAM. Your videos are the best I have found out there. Some great Shimano mech top tips also. Well done guys
Yes! But soon to be irrelevant as Im grtting 12spd di2 😁🤣
Great channel! Can you make a video explaining your air compressor setup?
It would be helpful to have a video to watch to review for us northern people stuck in winter for 7 months. It seems like I forget most things when I start riding every spring.
Have always figured a lever bleed is to account for pad wear. When changing pads, reset with the bleed block and start the cycle again. :)
A bit late. But yes, it works for that, too.
Generally speaking, the system isn't 100% airtight (and therefore not fluid tight). That's by design, as you'd otherwise get issues with the reservoir (in the lever).
For brakes that use actual brake fluid (DOT) instead of mineral oil, there's also the issue that ones it comes into contact with air, it absorbs some water. That water evaporates eventually, or even boils out if you brake hard and long enough, so there's nothing to replace the volume, but air.
90% of the time a lever bleed fixes it. Having to do a full bleed is a rare occasion, and usually is only necessary if something cataatrophic happens. Like ripping a brake hose on the lower part of the system, or, as a customer did thinking "huh, what does that screw do?"
Another case for a full bleed is when you attempt a lever bleed, and loads of gunk comes up. We had shimano brakes in the shop where the fluid was literally black rather than pink, and, so far only older Magura rim brakes where the fluid turned green and smelled seriously foul. The full bleed does two things in such cases: it flushes the system, and replaces old fluid. Though, in such cases, don't try to push the old fluid up, just let the system drain, then push new fluid through a couple of times.
I can't say much about the performance of a dirty brake system, but personally, I feel better when things are close to new
o.M.g a girl fixing bikes. Finally, someone else!,,, what a relief
Can confirm. On my 105 R7000 hydro levers the port is accessed by peeling back the top of the hoods, like on mechanical GRX.
Thanks for confirming!
Im going to do a lever bleed (very soft rear brakes) right now after watching your great video. I installed the whole system but now its not again...Thanx
I like to dab at the pool of oil at the top of the reservoir with a clean rag to take away a few drops of oil, until the oil level is at the insertion level of the cover screw, and then put the screw back. Seems to keep it cleaner than trying to catch the oil as it gets squozen out.
So how’d you finally get the widget out?!? Viewers want to know!
Didn't, that's it's new home until we empty that bottle of oil 😁 Fortunately we have other ones.
@@sydfixesbikes no chopsticks laying around?
I was just thinking about buying the bleeding set coz my breaks were getting squishy and UA-cam suggested this video. Coincidence? I think not.
Mechanical finger will get the widget out💯🇺🇸
I did this technique for my 105 shifter, but after the first ride, I noticed that mineral oil started leaking from the relief valve on the inside of the shifter, and the braking has gone spongy again. I think I might have lost all the oil that I just added. Do you know why this happens, and how to solve it? Thx!
thanks for vid. would this work for sram road using sram syringe you think? work the lever a bit?
also why do hydro brake manufacturer's all have quite different bleed techniques in service manual? I think on cars and motorcycles procedure is more or less same for all brake brands and models. 🤷🏿♀️
We don't have any SRAM, so aren't as familiar with the bleeding process, but my understanding is that SRAM brakes require using the syringe because the fluid needs to be under pressure while Shimano brakes do not, which is why you can gravity bleed Shimano, but not SRAM
My hydraulic Utregra brakes feel solid, not spongy at all. But they pull pretty far before engaging. Would a lever bleed add fluid into the reservoir the way you do it? OR do I need to do a full bleed to add more fluid? Or is it something else. Thanks.
There may be a free stroke adjustment on the Ultegra levers that would allow you to adjust the pad contact point. If you tightened that, it wouldn't pull as far. There's also a reach adjustment you could experiment with if the levers aren't too far away...
I have a question unrelated to this video.
I have a motorized bike that has eaten through a few traditional inner tubes. Would that Air foam liner thing be a good option for the tire instead of a tube?
Motorized meaning e-bike or motorcycle? Assuming e-bike, going tubeless would be a good option. You could also install an Air-liner, but most likely just going tubeless would be your solution.
@@sydfixesbikes it's a pedal bike with a little 90cc motor on it. Goes roughly 45, and my terrain would be mostly asphalt.
Thank you for your speedy reply!!
Formula 409 is great for cleaning bar tape with no residue
Do I need to fully extend my levers before doing the lever bleed? If that make sense
Nope
well just like break on a car, as they wear they pedal goes further to the floor, or bikes closer to handlebar and take greater distance to travel of bedal before the breaks engage.
so if you were to replace pads as well, you would push pistons back, insert new "thicker" pads, then do the bleed?
Correct! We recommend connecting the funnel before pushing the pistons out though.
farting in a hot tub, gotcha
Disk brake make noise when they break what to do
Widget has a hole in it. A properly bent coat hanger should do the trick.
My mtb m9120, bite point is very close to grips, the calipers is very close to the rotors, infact it's slightly rubbing, I tried 1 way bleeding, or pump oil thru the calipers bleed port, still can't fix the issue
Make sure you center the caliper first (ua-cam.com/video/xWmlK5Qbt_U/v-deo.html) then do a lever bleed. If that doesn't work, try resetting the pistons (ua-cam.com/video/o-YvMRJunwo/v-deo.html) then lever bleed.
Syd, what kind of bike stand do you have?
It's the Feedback Sports Pro Elite (link in description).
Thanks I should have checked their first!
I spotted a gravel bike with a fox fork! You wanna elaborate on that ;)
Niner gravel bike
Jess is correct. It's the Niner MCR. Here's our video on it on our other channel: ua-cam.com/video/NngCWqJd2d8/v-deo.html
@@sydfixesbikes awesome!
I will not post "Pls."
Have you ever had a bent pushrod or bad pushrod seal in your brake lever? Repairable? (I know lever replacement is an option)
We have had that issue and from what we've heard, it is unfortunately not repairable. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
12" tweezers work wonders....
Syd pls
Gotcha to much boop not enough woop
Deep down, Mackey knows he's wrong about his gross ass bar tape, and knows he owes his bike better. Furthermore he knows he knows better, and is ignoring his inner voice, straying farther from the path.....
I use dexron 2 as an equivalent to crazy overpriced shimano oil.
Pls
"five minutes" *posts 13 min video*
The process takes 5 minutes or less, thus the title
And you kind sir have no fun nor chill😶🤣
Should be more aggressive petting in every video
First
"Step 2: Doesn't Exist" 🤣😂🤣
Pls