Thank God I found a video where the person is actually talking & talking in English I can understand! Not to mention that you did an excellent & thorough demonstration of this drill. Thank you!!!!!!
F#*kin awesome mate. Been waiting for ages for this vs video. Really glad you was the first person I seen reviewing the drill. Brilliant video as ever mate!! 💪🏴. Stay safe. And keep filming. Now where my credit card 😃
Just want to add on the locking chuck mechanism that they actually lock. After the final ratcheting of the chuck, if you turn the sleeve back one click you will here a slightly different clicking sound and the chuck will lock. (I only found this out recently and feel as though I need to tell everyone haha)
@@LiamBehan-mi8kr I've tried it on my 18v Makita, M18 and M12 Milwaukee drills and they all do it. Also tried it on a colleagues old Bosch and it did too
That 40v appears to be a winner. Nice that it doesn’t make an auditory beep when the electronic clutch engages. Trust me, it can be annoying on the other brands. Looking forward to an update in a couple of months since you share my observation that the chuck on the 18v model is a bit....unpleasant at times. Bit of a shame they put a big mechanical selector ring on there. Perhaps it’s surrounding the hammer drill mechanism, though.
I’m definitely getting one when they release here in the states I have the regular 18v drill and it’s a beast I mix thinset,dry pack it does everything.
I don't even have the bigger old one, lol - but as I had some problems with a smaller 18v, I just bought an old 18v rotary hammer to drill holes in mansory walls, and it worked. I think it's cool the 'flagships' (these bigger 1/2" ones), but they're heavy. To everyday stuff, I just like to use the smaller ones. overall, very nice review. You just showed every single thing this drill can do, and thanks for that.
I have the 36v rotary in hammer drill, that i rarely use. The smaller Makita HR166 10,8v has been my go to. It's just so light. It's a bit slower, but i can hold it above my head the whole day.
If you don't need the hammer drill function, go for the DF001 instead of the HP001. The DF has no hammer drill just the driver and drill function. Keep the reviews coming. 👍
Damn it. You not helping. All these 40v tools seem way better. Expected when alongside 18v but even the old 2x18V. These new 21700 batteries just punch way harder than any 18650 can. Great reviews as always mate.
I'm not as impressed with the next review coming... but often when I watch the footage I see something was much quicker, for instance, than it felt while I was using it.
My only thinking could be money, they either don't want to invest in new tooling for the 18v battery line or they think they'll make more having both lines. People also mention the 18x2 stuff not having the space on between batteries but they should do it anyway. If you can use them, great, if not then you've not missed out anyway.
Great video, Thank you! The only problem with Makita 40v is your basically investing in a new tool platform! It’s just to bad that the batteries aren’t interchangeable with 18v tools like Dewalt has done with their FlexVolt batteries so your not that hesitant to buy a FlexVolt tool with a battery. If your just starting to buy tools then go for the Makita 40v system, but if you have a lot invested in Makita 18v tools it might not be worth the new investment. 👍🏻👍🏻
I am a huge fan of your channel and content. I’m a plumber and commonly uses hole saws. I would to see a video how the 40v holds up against different size hole saws through 2x4. I recently received a makita 40v reciprocating saw and I have had bad luck with the 18v makita hammer drill. (The 172D is the my favorite tool ever). I’m trying to research the 40v drill and if it’s worth getting a new hammer drill in the 40v platform and I’m very hesitant to buy one since I don’t have good things to say about the 18v. My dewalt blew up last week and need to make a decision soon. Thanks again for the amazing videos!
Holy shit what an amazing review mate. I could listen to you all day. Would you ever review the makita impact wrench DTW1002Z 18v with its 40v brother?
Just bought the older model on close out here in the states. Just thought I could say I got it for less money than a Ryobi. Because it was bargain basement I reckon I will enjoy it with no regrets. Just a thought on the newer model the digital settings built-in may go wonky on the jobsite and old reliable analogue Chuckie model may save the day. Just a thought. Great review.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Well, I saw those manual clutches fail as well. Personally, I think they found a pretty elegant solution with that encoder there. Much better than button pushing or fiddling with an app. If done right, those industrial, stepped encoders will last forever. That's the reason why you find that stuff in airplanes and such.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 That's actually the beauty of the new system. There is no clutch, there actually are LESS moving parts that can fail. It simply uses components that are already there. So there actually is less risk of failure.
I’ve been using various drills with electronic chucks for ages (a decade for the first one). The brains are all tied to the control board, which all of the brushless drills have anyway. The dial encoders on most of them are the same cheap parts used as speed setting selectors. Being more fragile and exposed than other parts on the drill, I wouldn’t disagree with them at least appearing be a hypothetical liability. Murphy’s Law. That said, they normally don’t fail and a mechanical chuck definitely has less mileage than an electronic one. It’s a major plastic-toothed wear and tear part. That said, Makita provides the whole assembled business end (chuck w/clutch) as a replacement part and that does indeed make it easier to troubleshoot and repair than replacing the electronics end. So, I think you’re all correct. Makita, particularly, over any other tool I’ve repaired, just has the loveliest cleanest and most serviceable designs. Well, except the part where they’re the only manufacturer that doesn’t use torx screws. I laughed at the recent youtube trend of everyone talking about JIS since they don’t use those screws anymore...and then I discovered the Makitas use the new JIS - a hybrid of the former JIS cross recess and the Phillips. Son of a diddly.
Great informative review! As a makita guy myself I wasn’t really impressed with the dhp481 mine had to go back to makita twice after the 3rd time it just got chucked in my garage an bought a dewalt dcs997 so might be able to switch back to makita now
Nice review as allways. Do you know something about the new combi/hammer drill that's out in America. The model there is called XPH14. Is it out in New Zealand or Europe?
At 7:50 you talked about the Chuck clicking. Would you mind explaining why that is a “feature”? I bought a Dewalt 996 that did that and I thought it was broken.
My only gripe is that you have to buy all new batteries and chargers. Dewalt has their flex volt and milwaukee figured out how to make big power using big 18v batteries. Neither of those require you to switch to a new battery platform
Hilti new brushless hammerdrill is the king (sf6h a22) .i am not impressed with 40v at all ,ok its a little bit stronger but only 4ah is with 21700 .but anyway you have a great channel and we watching you ;) GOOD JOB BROTHA
It's too bad you can't limit the speed in drill mode with that knob. That would be great for dialing in the proper speed for various drill and hole saw diameters in steel.
Hey Tools & Stuff! just got the xgt hammer drill XPH01 today. When drilling into some galvanized steel i noticed the drill bit would getting jammed a bit and then without rotating the motor would keep going. Tested the LXT to see if it was just too much to handle and the lxt did not have a problem although it was slower. It was pretty annoying. I’m wondering if you have experienced something similar?
we're using the 481 at work to screw large bolts into the back of wind turbine blades but they lack torque. Any ideas what the best drill would be to upgrade to? was looking at this 40v
This drill is fatastic. I have most of the 40v kit. Just the circular saw and the impact wrench which we don't have here in Britain. Just deciding whether I should get the circular saw with a track or without.
Hey tools & stuff, do you know something about the new drill driver that's out in north america xph14, what is the name for europe and when it will be released?
Just got my 40v drill/driver and is it just my specimen or is the trigger suposed to be this sensitive? I have to squeeze the trugger VERY gently or it is more like an on/off switch.
They look nice but are definitely a pro tool. I’ve almost broken my wrist a couple of times (slow learner) with an 18 volt version when my bit caught a knot drilling over my head through 2x for wiring my garage.
20 years ago they weren't powerful enough to break your wrist (not when compared to these 2 drills), most 18v drills don't need handles as they just jam and cut out.
Why do you need 41 settings? Your either using it to push in small screws where you want it nice and slow or using it on big screws or to punch through brick/stone in which case you want max speed and power. You need 5 settings max.
Because you can.... :) Electronic clutch, auto stop and the great repeatability of the electronic settings, makes it behave almost like a poor man's cordless assembly torque driver. If you have many of exactly the same screws to drill into exactly the same work: Take some time in the begining to find the setting which sets the screw "perfect." Then you can "go to sleep," while the tool ensures the rest are set equally perfect. Not sure if anyone has tested tool to tool consistency, but you may even be able to share settings with others. Saving even more time, as well as ensuring "apprentices" aren't being sloppy, inconsistent or just have a different standard for proper set than you. It does seem Makita have invested more than the usual amount of effort into making this particular tool high end and consistent. Some people may have enough feel, focus and coordination to always stop at the right time by just leaving it in drill. Or even with an impact set on high. But many others, would benefit from the sort of repeatability this allows, if one is willing to do a bit of initial setup.
Vivo en Chile y compre este modelo de 40vlt pero no trae la función de rotomartillo, y busque en otros video y en algunos video tan poco trae esa función y en algunos si, k alguien me diga k es lo k pasa con este modelo xk en algunos paices cambian la función del taladro
The only thing I don't understand about the new 40v drill by makita is, why do they bother to make a hammer drill and also a driver drill? You can make only the hammer drill and use the hammer mode only if you want to.
Are you referring to making it act like a rotary hammer, where you can have just hammer, hammer and spinning, and spinning with no hammer? Yeah, those actually have a weighted hammer in them. These drills just use 2 ramped discs that creates a bit of inertia from the tool itself to make a hammer effect, so they need to be spinning to work.
@@timramich no, I am referring that they bother to make a 40v drill and a 40v hammer drill... They could just have made the hammer drill and have both worlds... If you want you use the hammer but if you don't you just use it like a drill.
@@alexc.239 My guess is that it would appeal to those who don't want to spend as much money, as the whole thing is then simplified. It may last longer as a drill, if they are able to possibly make the gears larger because of having no hammer parts.
I'd be interested in seeing if the metal where the handle locks on is beefed up on the 40v. The metal actually cracked on my 18v after binding up a couple times. Now if it gets bound up it's 50/50 if the handle is going to pop off.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL You commented on the handle. I was referring to the metal section on the drill. Can't really determine if its been improved without taking the drill apart.
I use the dhp for a few years now. It's a great choice. Biggest challenge we're 10x560 screws with fully threading. Only the head didn't get in. And we had to use 750 of these monsters. I would like to get the HP. But what in the ass is this crap with the clutch settings??? I'm a professionel woodworker/carpenter and work on construction sites for years. I' ve never seen anybody using this crappy settings. And now they build more digital/electrical error possibilities in a machine which could cost half as much without? Why??? Give me a power gear and a speed gear. That's all i need.
How does it compare to the Milwaukee 18v? As I note that both the impact driver and SDS 18V drill from Milwaukee is more powerful and drills/sinks screws faster than the 40V Makitas?
Truth be told, Milwaukee is shit, i mean 2804 and 2853. 2853 is absoulutely dumb, it doesn't have so more flexibility, so...you can't work with small screws. so more power it doesn't enough. 2804 has issue with reablility, I mean mosfets ( power transistors), issues with design.
the 40v stuff is way too expensive to justify upgrading with no backwards compatibility for batteries. I paid $800 Canadian for my 6 piece makita kit in 2014, . The 6 piece 40v kit is about 2300 CAD (I can only find it on Australian websites as of now but our dollars are similar). I'll give it a few years before making the switch.
XGT = xtra gold taken! Great review. The thing that has kept me away from 18 volt Makita drills has always been their chucks when drilling with things like spade bits they tend to drop out while drilling. (Even when you lock the chuck) Have you noticed this would be 18 volt is it fixed with be 40 volt?
Xtra Great Transaction! I know what you mean with the chucks, although I have had this problem more with other chucks such as Jacobs. The chucks on both of these tools are Yukiwa, but are slightly different. I haven't used the 40v enough yet to see if it is a problem. What I have found is that one handed chucks often undo when used at high speeds, so the gruntier drills tend to do it more due to the sudden stop at high rotation by the brake.
Guys, Have you tried knocking the chuck one click backwards once tightened to lock the chuck? I used to experience drill bits falling out even after reefing hard on the chuck to tighten it to the max. I was unaware some chucks have this "locking" feature designed into the keyless chucks where after tightening you turn the chuck backwards to the first click as if untightening.
makita quite pricey for myself.....i was gifted a few brand new 40v batteries with dual charger & i just do diy around home but i want to buy a kick ass combi drill which this seems to be....do i need to purchase an impact driver if this hammer drill can do what impact driver does....going by the tests you did in this clip ? cheers
I just bought an Makita XPH14 2 days ago. Is it normal for a Makita chuck to push in and out like it’s on a spring? If you push on the chuck pushing towards the rear it pushes in and it pushes itself back out? Thank You!
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL thank you! I didn’t know if I had an issue. My Milwaukee barely does it and my Dewalt doesn’t do it at all. I appreciate it, Thank you!
Can the 40V tool be used with an 18V battery? (obviously i know it wouldn be as effective) going to replace my 18V dont wanto buy 40V battiers aswell just yet(cost)
No... but I am going to make mine do that hopefully as an experiment, which if it works will be easy for most people who buy the 40v stuff... stay tuned...
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL thanks for the reply, thatll be interesting for sure. Its expensive to replace a whole kit due to a simple upgrade, lets hope it works
Thank God I found a video where the person is actually talking & talking in English I can understand! Not to mention that you did an excellent & thorough demonstration of this drill. Thank you!!!!!!
F#*kin awesome mate. Been waiting for ages for this vs video. Really glad you was the first person I seen reviewing the drill.
Brilliant video as ever mate!! 💪🏴. Stay safe. And keep filming.
Now where my credit card 😃
Just want to add on the locking chuck mechanism that they actually lock. After the final ratcheting of the chuck, if you turn the sleeve back one click you will here a slightly different clicking sound and the chuck will lock.
(I only found this out recently and feel as though I need to tell everyone haha)
Did NOT know this! Gonna go check that with my drill... sounds very cool.
It that the 18v?
@@LiamBehan-mi8kr I've tried it on my 18v Makita, M18 and M12 Milwaukee drills and they all do it. Also tried it on a colleagues old Bosch and it did too
aye not many know about this feature. i find myself pointing it out to lots of people that have problems with the chuck letting go of bits
"99% don't know"...
That 40v appears to be a winner. Nice that it doesn’t make an auditory beep when the electronic clutch engages. Trust me, it can be annoying on the other brands. Looking forward to an update in a couple of months since you share my observation that the chuck on the 18v model is a bit....unpleasant at times. Bit of a shame they put a big mechanical selector ring on there. Perhaps it’s surrounding the hammer drill mechanism, though.
The electronic clutch is amazing.
I’m definitely getting one when they release here in the states I have the regular 18v drill and it’s a beast I mix thinset,dry pack it does everything.
I don't even have the bigger old one, lol - but as I had some problems with a smaller 18v, I just bought an old 18v rotary hammer to drill holes in mansory walls, and it worked.
I think it's cool the 'flagships' (these bigger 1/2" ones), but they're heavy. To everyday stuff, I just like to use the smaller ones.
overall, very nice review. You just showed every single thing this drill can do, and thanks for that.
I have the 36v rotary in hammer drill, that i rarely use.
The smaller Makita HR166 10,8v has been my go to. It's just so light.
It's a bit slower, but i can hold it above my head the whole day.
Excellent review answered all my questions, great video & looking forward to more.
Lot's more on the way!
If you don't need the hammer drill function, go for the DF001 instead of the HP001. The DF has no hammer drill just the driver and drill function.
Keep the reviews coming.
👍
Same price so why dont get the HP001 one?
@@peterf4805 10 months ago was a different story. At least here in Europe. 😉
Loved your review, excellent drill. Time to jump to the 40 volt tools.
The drill is smaller than 18v. And the 2.5Ah battery is basically the same size as the 18v batteries.
Awesome match. The XGT is a clear beast!!! Can't wait to see the impact in action against the 18v.
Coming soon...
Damn it. You not helping. All these 40v tools seem way better. Expected when alongside 18v but even the old 2x18V. These new 21700 batteries just punch way harder than any 18650 can. Great reviews as always mate.
I'm not as impressed with the next review coming... but often when I watch the footage I see something was much quicker, for instance, than it felt while I was using it.
I got to use these the other compared to the 18v. Definitely a good uograde👌
Awesome review and ill be buying the 40v kit however I don't see why makita won't bring out 18v batteries with new cell technology
My only thinking could be money, they either don't want to invest in new tooling for the 18v battery line or they think they'll make more having both lines. People also mention the 18x2 stuff not having the space on between batteries but they should do it anyway. If you can use them, great, if not then you've not missed out anyway.
@@SammyInnit 2.5Ah 40V batteries have same size cells as LXT. 4Ah 40V has newer cells that are bigger and used by DeWalt, Milwaukee too
@@MrHotpl4te Yes I'm well aware.
I'd say they may end up too big to fit into alot of the 18v tools
Great video, Thank you!
The only problem with Makita 40v is your basically investing in a new tool platform! It’s just to bad that the batteries aren’t interchangeable with 18v tools like Dewalt has done with their FlexVolt batteries so your not that hesitant to buy a FlexVolt tool with a battery. If your just starting to buy tools then go for the Makita 40v system, but if you have a lot invested in Makita 18v tools it might not be worth the new investment.
👍🏻👍🏻
I have the 18v and it was still worth upgrading
It is interchangeable they supply a adaptor so you can charge your 18v batteries.
@@pumpkinlegend-vr I purchased the 40v hammer drill and impact driver, it’s all I use now. Very comfortable and the batteries last extremely long.
Is this guy the new number one tool reviewer on UA-cam?
That would be nice.
I am a huge fan of your channel and content. I’m a plumber and commonly uses hole saws. I would to see a video how the 40v holds up against different size hole saws through 2x4. I recently received a makita 40v reciprocating saw and I have had bad luck with the 18v makita hammer drill. (The 172D is the my favorite tool ever). I’m trying to research the 40v drill and if it’s worth getting a new hammer drill in the 40v platform and I’m very hesitant to buy one since I don’t have good things to say about the 18v. My dewalt blew up last week and need to make a decision soon. Thanks again for the amazing videos!
great video man! look forward to the next one. stay safe
Holy shit what an amazing review mate. I could listen to you all day. Would you ever review the makita impact wrench DTW1002Z 18v with its 40v brother?
Possibly, but not scheduled at this stage. The 40v Wrench isn't available here yet, but should be out next month.
Just bought the older model on close out here in the states.
Just thought I could say I got it for less money than a Ryobi.
Because it was bargain basement I reckon I will enjoy it with no regrets.
Just a thought on the newer model the digital settings built-in may go wonky on the jobsite and old reliable analogue Chuckie model may save the day. Just a thought.
Great review.
Any Makita cheaper than a ryobi is worth purchasing. As for your last comment... I agree 100%
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL Well, I saw those manual clutches fail as well. Personally, I think they found a pretty elegant solution with that encoder there. Much better than button pushing or fiddling with an app. If done right, those industrial, stepped encoders will last forever. That's the reason why you find that stuff in airplanes and such.
@@evictioncarpentry2628 That's actually the beauty of the new system. There is no clutch, there actually are LESS moving parts that can fail. It simply uses components that are already there. So there actually is less risk of failure.
I’ve been using various drills with electronic chucks for ages (a decade for the first one). The brains are all tied to the control board, which all of the brushless drills have anyway. The dial encoders on most of them are the same cheap parts used as speed setting selectors. Being more fragile and exposed than other parts on the drill, I wouldn’t disagree with them at least appearing be a hypothetical liability. Murphy’s Law. That said, they normally don’t fail and a mechanical chuck definitely has less mileage than an electronic one. It’s a major plastic-toothed wear and tear part. That said, Makita provides the whole assembled business end (chuck w/clutch) as a replacement part and that does indeed make it easier to troubleshoot and repair than replacing the electronics end. So, I think you’re all correct. Makita, particularly, over any other tool I’ve repaired, just has the loveliest cleanest and most serviceable designs. Well, except the part where they’re the only manufacturer that doesn’t use torx screws. I laughed at the recent youtube trend of everyone talking about JIS since they don’t use those screws anymore...and then I discovered the Makitas use the new JIS - a hybrid of the former JIS cross recess and the Phillips. Son of a diddly.
I got the 40V hammerdril. It is a Damn Monster. Best purchase
Here we are in March ‘21 and Makita USA threw us a bone: XPH14z. No electronic clutch. 😫
Great informative review! As a makita guy myself I wasn’t really impressed with the dhp481 mine had to go back to makita twice after the 3rd time it just got chucked in my garage an bought a dewalt dcs997 so might be able to switch back to makita now
Hes keeping the "best" for last... the impacts ^^
We are still waiting for the impacts, please and thank you 😁
Patience my friend... soon...
Was hoping that one day you could do an electronic clutch comparison with other drills.
How about to put against 40v newer DHP486Z 18V BL Combi Drill LXT / XPH14 in USA. Its been around for some time?
That electronic clutch is such cool technology.
Man I have trouble using my TV remote I would be stuffed in trying to change some of the features on this drill!!
Time to campare 40v with DHP486 (XPH14)
Nice review as allways. Do you know something about the new combi/hammer drill that's out in America. The model there is called XPH14. Is it out in New Zealand or Europe?
At 7:50 you talked about the Chuck clicking. Would you mind explaining why that is a “feature”? I bought a Dewalt 996 that did that and I thought it was broken.
My only gripe is that you have to buy all new batteries and chargers. Dewalt has their flex volt and milwaukee figured out how to make big power using big 18v batteries. Neither of those require you to switch to a new battery platform
You still have to buy new batteries, the charger is the only difference.
Like to see this 40V vs the newer XPH14 (latest hammer drill 18V).
Hilti new brushless hammerdrill is the king (sf6h a22) .i am not impressed with 40v at all ,ok its a little bit stronger but only 4ah is with 21700 .but anyway you have a great channel and we watching you ;) GOOD JOB BROTHA
lol hilti! its got the same power as makita did , like 8 years ago...its a joke compared to this beast
the hog thats why last longer my friend .hilti is strong but not so fast compare to other brands .and hilti its a healthy tools (no issues)
It's too bad you can't limit the speed in drill mode with that knob. That would be great for dialing in the proper speed for various drill and hole saw diameters in steel.
Guess I found my new drill 👍
I really need to get me 1 of those 40 volt hammer drill in my life
Hey Tools & Stuff! just got the xgt hammer drill XPH01 today. When drilling into some galvanized steel i noticed the drill bit would getting jammed a bit and then without rotating the motor would keep going. Tested the LXT to see if it was just too much to handle and the lxt did not have a problem although it was slower. It was pretty annoying. I’m wondering if you have experienced something similar?
we're using the 481 at work to screw large bolts into the back of wind turbine blades but they lack torque. Any ideas what the best drill would be to upgrade to? was looking at this 40v
Have you got the hp002gz? Wondering how it compares to the hp001g? And the 18v ... 002 is a bit lighter and a more compact
This drill is fatastic. I have most of the 40v kit. Just the circular saw and the impact wrench which we don't have here in Britain. Just deciding whether I should get the circular saw with a track or without.
Did you try the 280mm landscaping screw with the 18V? Real curious to see how far you could get it in.
Is there difference between the drill driver and "hammer" drill driver?
Hey tools & stuff, do you know something about the new drill driver that's out in north america xph14, what is the name for europe and when it will be released?
Guys hope you doing good, i want to buy one for all use even concrete what do you suggest for me!!?
Just got my 40v drill/driver and is it just my specimen or is the trigger suposed to be this sensitive? I have to squeeze the trugger VERY gently or it is more like an on/off switch.
Good video, nice test, thanks!
Once you tighten the chuck you turn it the other way till you hear a click then the chuck is locked.
Really love your videos, and love that 40 volt hammer drill
Cheers!
It's a great drill.
They look nice but are definitely a pro tool. I’ve almost broken my wrist a couple of times (slow learner) with an 18 volt version when my bit caught a knot drilling over my head through 2x for wiring my garage.
You definitely need the side handle for large bits with these drills.
Totally agree. 20 years ago they weren’t an option though.
20 years ago they weren't powerful enough to break your wrist (not when compared to these 2 drills), most 18v drills don't need handles as they just jam and cut out.
And good drills still had side handles 20 years ago, but we hardly needed them as the drills weren't that powerful.
It was a Makita 18v Nickel metal hydride model. I can’t remember if side handles were an opt. It certainly was as strong as either of my current
I wonder how it would compare vs DeWalt DCD998 Power detect, and yet to be officially announced DeWalt FlexVolt Advantage DCD999.
Can we see it vs the AEG FUSION ??
Great design from makita I love makita tools
Do you think is worth upgrading
Is AFT system not working on these drills? Have you experienced some AFT feedback?
Why do you need 41 settings? Your either using it to push in small screws where you want it nice and slow or using it on big screws or to punch through brick/stone in which case you want max speed and power. You need 5 settings max.
Because you can.... :)
Electronic clutch, auto stop and the great repeatability of the electronic settings, makes it behave almost like a poor man's cordless assembly torque driver. If you have many of exactly the same screws to drill into exactly the same work: Take some time in the begining to find the setting which sets the screw "perfect." Then you can "go to sleep," while the tool ensures the rest are set equally perfect. Not sure if anyone has tested tool to tool consistency, but you may even be able to share settings with others. Saving even more time, as well as ensuring "apprentices" aren't being sloppy, inconsistent or just have a different standard for proper set than you. It does seem Makita have invested more than the usual amount of effort into making this particular tool high end and consistent.
Some people may have enough feel, focus and coordination to always stop at the right time by just leaving it in drill. Or even with an impact set on high. But many others, would benefit from the sort of repeatability this allows, if one is willing to do a bit of initial setup.
You should make another video drilling in to bricks and blocks with 1 drill in each hand
Vivo en Chile y compre este modelo de 40vlt pero no trae la función de rotomartillo, y busque en otros video y en algunos video tan poco trae esa función y en algunos si, k alguien me diga k es lo k pasa con este modelo xk en algunos paices cambian la función del taladro
Great testing! 👍
Cheers
Why is there no difference between clutches 16-21 ?
How's this video not having 10k likes???? 🤔🤨🤔🤨
Love teh safety sandals
The only thing I don't understand about the new 40v drill by makita is, why do they bother to make a hammer drill and also a driver drill? You can make only the hammer drill and use the hammer mode only if you want to.
Are you referring to making it act like a rotary hammer, where you can have just hammer, hammer and spinning, and spinning with no hammer? Yeah, those actually have a weighted hammer in them. These drills just use 2 ramped discs that creates a bit of inertia from the tool itself to make a hammer effect, so they need to be spinning to work.
@@timramich no, I am referring that they bother to make a 40v drill and a 40v hammer drill... They could just have made the hammer drill and have both worlds... If you want you use the hammer but if you don't you just use it like a drill.
@@alexc.239 My guess is that it would appeal to those who don't want to spend as much money, as the whole thing is then simplified. It may last longer as a drill, if they are able to possibly make the gears larger because of having no hammer parts.
I love it, but I can see a lot of people hating the electronics
Thx Englishman. It is a great video. I can buy a 2d-Hand, 18V Makita, but it still cost an African Arm and Leg. Dankie/ Merci!
Excellent video, answered all my questions. Subbed! Thank you.
Cheers
Very nice video :) thank you soo much !!! And on 29th minute looks like you drill anticlockwise to the left haha
Shutter speed dude.
Which model nummber for 40v?
I'd be interested in seeing if the metal where the handle locks on is beefed up on the 40v. The metal actually cracked on my 18v after binding up a couple times. Now if it gets bound up it's 50/50 if the handle is going to pop off.
Should have watched the video before commenting.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL You commented on the handle. I was referring to the metal section on the drill. Can't really determine if its been improved without taking the drill apart.
Oh I see. I might pull it apart to check. If I do I will probably put a short vid on my other channel.
I use the dhp for a few years now.
It's a great choice. Biggest challenge we're 10x560 screws with fully threading. Only the head didn't get in. And we had to use 750 of these monsters.
I would like to get the HP. But what in the ass is this crap with the clutch settings???
I'm a professionel woodworker/carpenter and work on construction sites for years. I' ve never seen anybody using this crappy settings.
And now they build more digital/electrical error possibilities in a machine which could cost half as much without? Why???
Give me a power gear and a speed gear. That's all i need.
What about the dhp458z 18v is that uk version of the 18v in video
Dhp481
Si 40v is more industrial type?
Nice deck and stairs there lad
Chur
How does it compare to the Milwaukee 18v? As I note that both the impact driver and SDS 18V drill from Milwaukee is more powerful and drills/sinks screws faster than the 40V Makitas?
Truth be told, Milwaukee is shit, i mean 2804 and 2853. 2853 is absoulutely dumb, it doesn't have so more flexibility, so...you can't work with small screws. so more power it doesn't enough. 2804 has issue with reablility, I mean mosfets ( power transistors), issues with design.
the 40v stuff is way too expensive to justify upgrading with no backwards compatibility for batteries. I paid $800 Canadian for my 6 piece makita kit in 2014, . The 6 piece 40v kit is about 2300 CAD (I can only find it on Australian websites as of now but our dollars are similar). I'll give it a few years before making the switch.
Good video, thanks
Can you take the new XGT battery and put it on the old makita tools?
ua-cam.com/video/pPiGmHdi3EQ/v-deo.html
XGT = xtra gold taken!
Great review.
The thing that has kept me away from 18 volt Makita drills has always been their chucks when drilling with things like spade bits they tend to drop out while drilling. (Even when you lock the chuck) Have you noticed this would be 18 volt is it fixed with be 40 volt?
Xtra Great Transaction!
I know what you mean with the chucks, although I have had this problem more with other chucks such as Jacobs. The chucks on both of these tools are Yukiwa, but are slightly different. I haven't used the 40v enough yet to see if it is a problem. What I have found is that one handed chucks often undo when used at high speeds, so the gruntier drills tend to do it more due to the sudden stop at high rotation by the brake.
Guys,
Have you tried knocking the chuck one click backwards once tightened to lock the chuck? I used to experience drill bits falling out even after reefing hard on the chuck to tighten it to the max. I was unaware some chucks have this "locking" feature designed into the keyless chucks where after tightening you turn the chuck backwards to the first click as if untightening.
@@kris7791 yes i am familiar with this.
This has also been discussed in another comment thread on this video.
_can u just give me d old one mate? Id b happy to keep and use it..
Flipflops n socks is an essential item in some parts of NZ
Industrial Safety Jandals (ISJ's)
in mississippi we wear shorts and boots
Nothing wrong with that!
Man that drill is sweeeeet
makita quite pricey for myself.....i was gifted a few brand new 40v batteries with dual charger & i just do diy around home but i want to buy a kick ass combi drill which this seems to be....do i need to purchase an impact driver if this hammer drill can do what impact driver does....going by the tests you did in this clip ? cheers
For DIY around the house you could get away with just the drill.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL thanks for reply....love the channel
I just bought an Makita XPH14 2 days ago. Is it normal for a Makita chuck to push in and out like it’s on a spring? If you push on the chuck pushing towards the rear it pushes in and it pushes itself back out?
Thank You!
Chucks on hammer drills are designed to move back and forward when drilling into concrete.
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL thank you! I didn’t know if I had an issue. My Milwaukee barely does it and my Dewalt doesn’t do it at all.
I appreciate it, Thank you!
Have a question does the 40V battery fit on the type DHP481? (good video by the way)
I'm guessing you didn't actually watch the video.
Can we see it vs AEG FUSION!
Not on this channel
Can the 40V tool be used with an 18V battery? (obviously i know it wouldn be as effective) going to replace my 18V dont wanto buy 40V battiers aswell just yet(cost)
No... but I am going to make mine do that hopefully as an experiment, which if it works will be easy for most people who buy the 40v stuff... stay tuned...
@@ToolsAndStuffOFFICIAL thanks for the reply, thatll be interesting for sure.
Its expensive to replace a whole kit due to a simple upgrade, lets hope it works
Makita needs to make all tools black(primary color) and white(lettering) with just a hint of teal blue for all their tools.
fucking awesome
Hahahahahah! love it when he says “piece of piss” hahahah! im sold man...where can we donate?
On my channel banner, bottom right. ;)
Price plz
Does it have a variable trigger?
Yes
We don't have the 40v range in South Africa yet. 😡
Not many countries have them yet. Just Japan, Australia, New Zealand, UK and a handful of European countries.
It was so painful to watch U with slippers and socks (14:29)😉
Nice review👍
I do it just to see who will comment.
For me not significant between the different 18 v abd 40 v.
the significant difference I am seeing is in price.
you kidding it's loads better.
Use the same wh battery (18V 4Ah = 40V 2Ah)
then compare power
Impossible to test something that didn't exist at the time.
I burned the 18v right out the box i nee sd to dril 40mm holes 150mm deep constantly like 100 in an houer thats not wat they make for
Yeah the socks and jandals. Winter attire
Had to take the socks off at one point today... spring is on the way...
They are not flip flops, they are Industrial Safety Jandals or ISJ's
Good
Now that you don't need your 18V one you might as well just send it to me
I don't have your address...
Xtra Granted Torque