This is an ALL non-sense joke! Listen people surface preparation is everything to superior bonding of anything. If possible Methyl Ethel Keytone (M.E.K.) or Acetone or Lacquer Thinner. = Hottest to Weakest. Aluminum is best grit blasted with a cheap pistol and small air compressor then solvent cleaned before applying epoxy and possibly flush riveted if necessary.. Polyester Resin (aka fiberglass resin) is also a good epoxy resin for bonding metals and if necessary it can be thickened to Vaseline consistency with Aerosil finely ground fiberglass roving. Bondo is the same thing, polyester resin with a catalyst. All epoxies are catalyst based. JB WELD IS NOT STRONGER THAN STEEL, what a roos, however after allowing to cure for a few days it does machine up very nicely. High speed machining can leave a good surface finish. It has good shear strength but not tensile strength. It can snap and break when fully cured out, however it is fairly tough stuff, more rigid and harder than ABS plastic. ABS melts like at 180 degrees. Aluminum can contain up to 50% silicon for fluidity in molten pouring and to produce heat resistance throughout it's life.. Therefore things don't stick that well, think Teflon. The surface needs to be prepped and cleaned and the bonding agent needs to be applied right when the solvent is flashing off to prevent any air moisture to establish itself on the alloy's surface, the rough grit blasting will help establish a key for the epoxy to grab onto instead of a smooth surface. Sanding would be appropriate also to roughen up the bonding surface and then cleaned with solvent. JB Weld has a pot life of around 40 minutes before it starts to catalyze and polyester is about 10-20 minutes depending how hot it's mixed, so the resin should be catalyzed ( hardener) prior to cleaning with solvent so it can be applied immediately when the solvent is flashed off. Hopes this helps someone.
Is epoxy on alu working in cold-wet conditions? I have 2 old russian mig tanks used now as raft :) and one of them has some small holes which i need do fix.
@@michaelmente1037 Maybe scribe with compass and pencil (cope & pattern) a large cardboard box to the contour of the pontoon and fit a small milk house heater in the end. If necessary the cardboard can be primed with PVA wall board primer then painted with latex to help prevent dampness. Prep your work area then get the aluminum up to temperature with your heat box. Mix and apply your patch then cover it with the heater box. At 80 F it should cure out nicely in an couple hours. Kind of a coffer dam repair. Use a small power generator if your up in the sticks. Cover with plastic or tarpaulin if needed.
This is an ALL non-sense joke!
Listen people surface preparation is everything to superior bonding of anything. If possible Methyl Ethel Keytone (M.E.K.) or Acetone or Lacquer Thinner. = Hottest to Weakest. Aluminum is best grit blasted with a cheap pistol and small air compressor then solvent cleaned before applying epoxy and possibly flush riveted if necessary.. Polyester Resin (aka fiberglass resin) is also a good epoxy resin for bonding metals and if necessary it can be thickened to Vaseline consistency with Aerosil finely ground fiberglass roving. Bondo is the same thing, polyester resin with a catalyst. All epoxies are catalyst based.
JB WELD IS NOT STRONGER THAN STEEL, what a roos, however after allowing to cure for a few days it does machine up very nicely. High speed machining can leave a good surface finish. It has good shear strength but not tensile strength. It can snap and break when fully cured out, however it is fairly tough stuff, more rigid and harder than ABS plastic. ABS melts like at 180 degrees.
Aluminum can contain up to 50% silicon for fluidity in molten pouring and to produce heat resistance throughout it's life.. Therefore things don't stick that well, think Teflon. The surface needs to be prepped and cleaned and the bonding agent needs to be applied right when the solvent is flashing off to prevent any air moisture to establish itself on the alloy's surface, the rough grit blasting will help establish a key for the epoxy to grab onto instead of a smooth surface. Sanding would be appropriate also to roughen up the bonding surface and then cleaned with solvent.
JB Weld has a pot life of around 40 minutes before it starts to catalyze and polyester is about 10-20 minutes depending how hot it's mixed, so the resin should be catalyzed ( hardener) prior to cleaning with solvent so it can be applied immediately when the solvent is flashed off.
Hopes this helps someone.
Is epoxy on alu working in cold-wet conditions? I have 2 old russian mig tanks used now as raft :) and one of them has some small holes which i need do fix.
@@michaelmente1037 Maybe scribe with compass and pencil (cope & pattern) a large cardboard box to the contour of the pontoon and fit a small milk house heater in the end. If necessary the cardboard can be primed with PVA wall board primer then painted with latex to help prevent dampness. Prep your work area then get the aluminum up to temperature with your heat box. Mix and apply your patch then cover it with the heater box. At 80 F it should cure out nicely in an couple hours. Kind of a coffer dam repair. Use a small power generator if your up in the sticks. Cover with plastic or tarpaulin if needed.
Sponsored by JB Weld
What's with the music? I want information not entertainment!
Computer voice reading the information on the product making these videos no different then the adds for the product
Really didnt show it in use...
Computer voice = FAIL
computer says no ..
Rubbish reviews