Such meticulous work honors those that first conceived and built this. For centuries, careful and respectful people like Keith have kept this vital legacy alive. This should be in the National Archive. It's that good. Thank you Keith! SO satisfying to watch you restore this.
Long time subscriber. As I mentioned in another comment on one of your videos, I love to see old machinery and old tools restored and brought back to operation. For the record, I'm not a real wizard. I'm just self-taught in many things. My real name is Michael McCluskey.
Keith, that is one beautiful machine. Really. It wouldn't look as good if it was a different color, nor if the gold was a different color and your scraping made that machine. I really enjoy your video's! Thanks for sharing.
I do not blame you for changing the key type. An engineer designed that wedged key, and machinist are always fixing engineering designs that don't work in the field. Johnny, in a previous comment, had the same idea that I had, a ships wheel would work well on the end of the shaft to raise and lower the head. Looking forward to seeing it run.
I like the idea of the hand-crank on the main-shaft, but I'd also consider extending the secondary shaft as you did the main, allowing you to move the handle to it and use the gear reduction for really fine tuning your adjustments. Can't wait to see this thing make some chips and curly-cues!!
I agree, Keith does his homework, he even used delron to make a mock gear to make sure his machining would work out. He went in admitting that he did not know how to do it, but he did the research and learned a new skill. That is admirable and impressive.
So much fun to watch. I've always been fascinated by bevel gears. Somehow I was always certain yours would work. Love the black paint with gold letters.
Nice work. Looks good. That tapered key was interesting. I guess they thought disassembly would be a very rare occurrence. Perhaps maintenance 160 years in the future was too distant to worry about! 👍
Or ... perhaps they did things the same way then that we sometimes do now. (Only, in those days, they couldn’t assume problems could be fixed in the software).
Farm machinery used the taper key well into the 1990s maybe past 2000. I got out of repairing modern farm machinery in 2000. Now I just work on old stuff. If you have the space to do it drive the gear further onto the shaft to unlock the key, remove the key, then with a clean shaft the gear comes right off. Many times the gear will pull off by hand without even using a puller. A key removal wedge was a standard item in my service call tool box. The wedge looks a lot like a MT removal wedge. the major difference being that the key removal wedge has one edge that is ground at a slight angle off of parallel So as to lock the wedge in place. I actually prefer them to the set screw straight key. But then again I likely have done 100s of each kind of keying system.
@@Proverbhouse Good comment and explanations . with you all the way as I am old school and used the method of knocking the pulley further on the shaft when there is room to do it ,9 times out of10 it will work depending on how far and hard Buba drove the key in when fitting it.
@@Proverbhouse: I was wondering why he didn't just loosen up that small gear, then do what you suggested, drive the large gear further onto the shaft to loosen up the wedge key. Lack of experience with wedge keys, I guess.
The planer is starting to really come together now. It's looking great with all the surfaces scraped and the fancy black paint job too. Can't wait to see first chips.
Keith, if the old shaft was the same size the whole length I would of removed the set screw and gave the far end a couple of raps. As it turned out a longer shaft worked out better for you. I have enjoyed all of your work and don't think I have missed one of your videos.
Should’ve taken it to the wire feed welder and just started stacking tacks on the end of the key, that would’ve forced the key to grow length wise slightly while at the same time giving you more surface area to grab ahold of it and pull it out! Try it next time! My dad got a key out that way that three other guys had given up on. Works great!
I don't think I'll ever understand why someone would click a thumbs down on Keith restoring a piece of machinery over a hundred years old. It's less than one percent so hopefully most of them were just inattentive thumbs up or just looking for some plain metal music videos.
"Thumbs down" doesn't matter. UA-cam robots count every "up or down" as an event. The number of events is what is important to the video creator. Haters think they are doing some bad thing when they "thumb down" but in fact it is a good event to add to the total. Sorry to all of the "know it all" haters that continually bitch and complain about Keith's videos. You actually are helping the channel!
Keith I need to see this machine run! lol I'm 70 years old and I ran one one these planners for 2 years, on my first part time job, when I was 20! it was a great plainer and once you run it and got to no it , you could do some really accurate work with it ! So as my daddy or grandpa used to say! GETTER DUNE BUBBER I AIN'T GETTIN ANY YOUNGER!
Once Keith has it running it would be great for you to go to see it cutting chips. I'm sure that Keith will pick your brains out learning how to run it.
Hay, Keith, drill tap and put a screw in that key and use a slide hammer to tug it out. Well after you got it as far as you did, just pound the gear back on and the key would halv probably worked it's way out. owell making a new shaft is always fun.
You could have done a hex or square shaft on the end. So instead of the crank you could have used a ratchet with socket. The ratchet being easier and directional. Then slip it off and not need to make a new crank. Just my 2 pennies.
Nice work Keith! I love seeing these machines that helped build America being restored and used once again. Just a thought, you can purchase, or in your case make, a keyed shaft socket. My thought would be to used a socket and ratchet wrench on the shaft instead of a fixed position handle. Just a thought maybe. Keep up the nice work!!
Lots of hit-and-miss engine flywheels are held on with those tapered gib keys... I imagine that really locks things in place. Probably not so important here. Looking good, thanks for sharing.
Well done. This planner video serie makes it like Christmas when You launch a new episode. Early in the video, time 5 minutes, You start the battle to remove the gear from the shaft. Why not put the lot in the press and press out the shaft from the gear and save both parts?
All original is good, but updated with new technology to move, adjust and monitor would in my opinion get a nice touch. A DRO of sorts would be awesome. And perhaps a frequency converter for different operations. I know, that not original.....but combining different eras of technology get me going.
How about a plain hand wheel with no handle/knob about 10" dia on the end of that upper shaft ? That way you don't have to reach all the way above the shaft and can just grip the bottom rim of the wheel several times to rotate the shaft 360 degrees. If you make the wheel a couple of inches bigger than the gear you can keep your knuckles away from the gear teeth. Should be easier to adjust from floor level. Also if the shaft is powered from the other gear and flat belt there is not a handle to come around and bonk you on the head... Great work, enjoy your videos.
It would be interesting to compare the original bevel gear for fit compared to you new one. The new one seems to have a lot of play in it and from what I saw of the original, it was only a little bit of tooth that was missing from the least important end - so I'd prefer the original gear ! As for the handwheel, depending on how fast the shaft rotates, it'd be a neat idea to put a sliding key on the handle so it can be disengaged from the shaft for when the shafts spins faster - presumably under power.
I was a little surprised that you didn't get the bevel gear and support loose and try driving the key out from the back with a pin punch. Still might not have worked, but seems like it would have been easy to try.
The key is called a gib head key and are a pain if they lock on. However if you give the wheel a clout at the centre boss then they would tend to loosen the key. We then used a gib key remover. It was called a boomerang and how they were made is they had slight taper on the edge that engaged against the gib head.. This stopped the Gib head from breaking off. Gib heads where never clouted into the keyway and wheel boss but just a firm bedding tap to get the “keyed result”.
Don't worry about historical accuracy. There are already modifications made in the past, such as the tapped hole in the gear for a handle. Most old machinery has been modified to some degree for ease of operation, when it was used everyday.
To be honest. It might (will) work, but it would not if any accurate meshing was needed. The tooth profile ist just an approximation of what it should be
Hi Keith. When you started to remove the gear I was hoping you would stop and try it next video. The reason being is that 'shopdogsam' did an excellent video on removing flywheels etc held in place with those type of keys a couple of years ago. His system worked very well with a high success rate. What he did was weld an extension onto the key and the pulled the key out. Rod
maybe yes maybe no the whole head and lift assembly needs to be level and true then I guess the bevel gears will be locked and timed for proper operation
Are the leadscrews left and right hand threaded for raising the axis? Otherwise, does the bevel gear need to be on the other side? It's looking good Mr Rucker!
Look back to the shot of the original shaft, I can’t see any witness marks so the gears are in the same place as before, so you deduction seems sensible..
Is there a flat milled on that shaft for the bevel gear set screw? If one of those gears slips on the shaft, the whole head goes cockeyed and all that scraping and measuring becomes a waste of time.
You can not have flats because you need to make fine adjustments to equalize the height from one side to the other, and the torque on the shaft is only about five to ten pounds max. It is a slow turning shaft and can be turned by hand.
@@july8xx True, but it will never be possible to get the tram of those gears perfect. The variation of the clearance between the various bevel gears and the lash in the screws and nuts will mean that the head will never travel up and down in a perfect straight line. Of course this machine was never intended to cut parts to precise tolerances- this was the 19th century age of steam and it was built to whack away huge chunks of metal from big castings.
@@july8xx I would be surprised if it could get within 0.020" flatness across the width of the bed. There are too many moving parts that are operating in simple castings- not sure if the mounting brackets even have a bushing supporting the shaft- same for the verticals- each of those parts needs clearance to operate and the clearance will be different on each one. Gears by their very nature have to have clearance, and no 2 are exactly the same, so as the gears engage , one will always start to move slightly ahead or behind the other. I have some experience in this, as I once built a mini CNC machine with the same basic design and I used some very high quality bevel gears, ball screws and ball bearing supports etc. and it was an endless job of fiddling trying to coordinate the parts to get results of 0.001" repeatability. The real proof will be if at the end of this process, he slaps a 4' x 6' slab of steel on the table and planes it down and then measures it side to side and end to end.
the more i think of it i see you might run into some problems with leveling the cross slide when adjusting to different heights. both thread spindles with the bevel gear assembly need to be perfectly synchronized, meaning same pitch without wear, perfectly skimming bevel gears with the same effectve diameter and exactly the same amount of backlash. you might need to get new sets of bevel gears, don't think it's going to work properly with the old ones.
Wait... aren’t those bevel gears supposed to be on the same relative side of the columns? Otherwise one side is lowering while the other side is lifting. Unless one side has left handed threads but that doesn’t seem right. Am I wrong?
I had the same thought, so I went and checked the first video. The bevel gears was mounted mirrored there, so I guess the screws must be as well. ua-cam.com/video/wycU52BR0Oc/v-deo.html
I'm surprised those bevel gears are only held onto the shaft with a set screw and not keyed to it, I can see them slipping under load very easily and scoring up the shaft.
what about tigging to the end of the key, bolt nut anything, then let it cool. i done that with some thing not shire if it would work for something like that but maybe next time give it a try. pan
It is a gib head key. When you tried to drive the shaft out you were only making it tighter. Would like to have seen you drive the gear farther on the shaft, would have loosened the key. Even drill and tap key and pull it out with all thread.
Knowing what I know about gib keys you should have knocked the gear in a little to loosen the tension. This works most of the time but not always. Your shop and your way is what's best.
The tapered item is called a Gib head key. A real pain to remove I used a slow tapered drift between the head and the pulley boss. It was a finicky process.
Nice, as always, Keith. I am curious, though. Why didn’t you just replace the end of the shaft you cut off? Not criticizing, just curious. Great job. Thanks, John
Given that the shaft must run very true, I'm guessing it would have been a lot more work to weld a new oversized end to the mainshaft, straighten the mainshaft , and then machine the new end true. Also, no guarantees all of that would work out correctly. For modest $$ Keith just bought a new shaft & machined exactly what he needed, plus the extension for a handle.
I picked up some cast wheels the other day. They are 10 inches in diameter with a 3/4 in square hole in the center. I got one cleaned up today and it appears to be off some kind of valve. I was thinking it might work as a wheel to operate the planer head instead of a handle. If you think you can use it for that or some other project let me know at rhayden2k@hotmail.com . I would be more than happy to send one or more to you. I have been privileged to watch your videos and learned a lot from you. Thank you for your efforts and passing on the knowledge.
Hi, Keith, when you turn a long shaft like that, do you use a slide-on bushing in the back of the drive tube to maintain the stock in dead centre of the tube?
He should, but in case you didn't notice, Keith was in a hurry to get this done and correct shop practice takes a beating when machinists and other craftsmen are so inclined.
Just curious, could you have drilled a threaded hole into the key and pulled it out with a slide hammer? Our mechanics use those all the time to pull tapered pins. Btw. pushing that rod just causes the tapered key to jam even tighter. Should have been easier to push the gear back, so the key comes loose
That's just what I was going to suggest. I've pulled them before by Tig welding a cut off grade 8 bolt to the key and then threading a slide hammer on to the bolt. The residual heat from welding helps break the key loose as well.
I came here to make the same suggestion. Always more than 1 way to skin a cat. Might as well replace the old rusty pitted shaft while you are at it lol.
@@steamfan7147 I've seen that work in some freaking hard case situations - Andrew Camarata did it on some big crawler or something. I couldn't believe he pulled it off (ba dum dum!) also Marty T down in New Zealand did this a time or two.
Yeah- should have driven the gear instead of the shaft- that would have released the tension on the tapered key, then maybe weld something onto the key to get ahold of it and pull it out.
@@oldschool1993 It got too deep for that, a mushroom had stopped it earlier. The tapered pin or what was left of it got wedged in the slot tighter and tighter.
I have had good results by in place of driving the shaft out of the gear, drive the gear onto the shaft further. A pipe that is slightly larger than the shaft and key works nice as a punch. Then the key can be removed. After the key is gone, the gear usually comes off with little difficulty.
Such meticulous work honors those that first conceived and built this. For centuries, careful and respectful people like Keith have kept this vital legacy alive. This should be in the National Archive. It's that good. Thank you Keith! SO satisfying to watch you restore this.
Long time subscriber. As I mentioned in another comment on one of your videos, I love to see old machinery and old tools restored and brought back to operation. For the record, I'm not a real wizard. I'm just self-taught in many things. My real name is Michael McCluskey.
Love to watch a professional at work...love your work....
It is a pleasure to follow your videos!
Keith, that is one beautiful machine. Really. It wouldn't look as good if it was a different color, nor if the gold was a different color and your scraping made that machine. I really enjoy your video's! Thanks for sharing.
The black and gold looks great!
Thanks for the vid Keith, I'm 72 and have been dodging covid just so I can see this thing running,
I do not blame you for changing the key type. An engineer designed that wedged key, and machinist are always fixing engineering designs that don't work in the field. Johnny, in a previous comment, had the same idea that I had, a ships wheel would work well on the end of the shaft to raise and lower the head. Looking forward to seeing it run.
Of course it will work. We have faith in the Rucker-man :-)
yes we have
It's coming together nicely!
Thank you Keith for another education video. Was having withdrawal; always have to tell myself people have other things they have to do in life.
I like the idea of the hand-crank on the main-shaft, but I'd also consider extending the secondary shaft as you did the main, allowing you to move the handle to it and use the gear reduction for really fine tuning your adjustments. Can't wait to see this thing make some chips and curly-cues!!
That machine is beautiful. You are doing a great job. I can't wait to see it run.
I never doubted you.
Thanks for letting us look over your shoulder once again,I enjoy this series.😁
"...no way it was going to work... But, uh, it does."
Lol. Uncle Keith smackin' around the pesky know-it-all kids.
I agree, Keith does his homework, he even used delron to make a mock gear to make sure his machining would work out. He went in admitting that he did not know how to do it, but he did the research and learned a new skill. That is admirable and impressive.
He wasn't even surprised.
Seriously doubt kids are the ones posting know it all comments.
@@the_hate_inside1085 Boys with Beards ®
Great progress!
amazing series. thank you
So much fun to watch. I've always been fascinated by bevel gears. Somehow I was always certain yours would work. Love the black paint with gold letters.
Machining castings is my favorite thing to watch.
Nice work. Looks good. That tapered key was interesting. I guess they thought disassembly would be a very rare occurrence. Perhaps maintenance 160 years in the future was too distant to worry about! 👍
Or ... perhaps they did things the same way then that we sometimes do now. (Only, in those days, they couldn’t assume problems could be fixed in the software).
I don't suppose they offered a lifetime warranty.
Those keys normally had a lip at the end so one could (theoretically) pull it out. This one was butchered and lost its lip.
Lister used those tapered keys right up to the 1950s and they are a PAIN!!
Peter Fletcher, yes also a lot of tannery machinery of the same era in Britain/UK used them . Jib head key,
Farm machinery used the taper key well into the 1990s maybe past 2000. I got out of repairing modern farm machinery in 2000. Now I just work on old stuff. If you have the space to do it drive the gear further onto the shaft to unlock the key, remove the key, then with a clean shaft the gear comes right off. Many times the gear will pull off by hand without even using a puller. A key removal wedge was a standard item in my service call tool box. The wedge looks a lot like a MT removal wedge. the major difference being that the key removal wedge has one edge that is ground at a slight angle off of parallel So as to lock the wedge in place. I actually prefer them to the set screw straight key. But then again I likely have done 100s of each kind of keying system.
@@Proverbhouse Good comment and explanations . with you all the way as I am old school and used the method of knocking the pulley further on the shaft when there is room to do it ,9 times out of10 it will work depending on how far and hard Buba drove the key in when fitting it.
@@Proverbhouse: I was wondering why he didn't just loosen up that small gear, then do what you suggested, drive the large gear further onto the shaft to loosen up the wedge key. Lack of experience with wedge keys, I guess.
The planer is starting to really come together now. It's looking great with all the surfaces scraped and the fancy black paint job too. Can't wait to see first chips.
Getting closer Keith.. the excitement grows 👍
Keith, if the old shaft was the same size the whole length I would of removed the set screw and gave the far end a couple of raps. As it turned out a longer shaft worked out better for you. I have enjoyed all of your work and don't think I have missed one of your videos.
I really enjoy your work , makes me get motivated in my little shop . I like your positive can do attitude .
I have a visegrip plier with a shaft welded to it that I use as a slide hammer. Sometimes helps with getting parts disassembled.
A labor of love
Great job Kieth, thanks for the update
Eagerly watching your progress to see it running!
Should’ve taken it to the wire feed welder and just started stacking tacks on the end of the key, that would’ve forced the key to grow length wise slightly while at the same time giving you more surface area to grab ahold of it and pull it out! Try it next time! My dad got a key out that way that three other guys had given up on. Works great!
I don't think I'll ever understand why someone would click a thumbs down on Keith restoring a piece of machinery over a hundred years old. It's less than one percent so hopefully most of them were just inattentive thumbs up or just looking for some plain metal music videos.
"Thumbs down" doesn't matter. UA-cam robots count every "up or down" as an event. The number of events is what is important to the video creator. Haters think they are doing some bad thing when they "thumb down" but in fact it is a good event to add to the total. Sorry to all of the "know it all" haters that continually bitch and complain about Keith's videos. You actually are helping the channel!
Keith I need to see this machine run! lol I'm 70 years old and I ran one one these planners for 2 years, on my first part time job, when I was 20! it was a great plainer and once you run it and got to no it , you could do some really accurate work with it ! So as my daddy or grandpa used to say! GETTER DUNE BUBBER I AIN'T GETTIN ANY YOUNGER!
Haha me too
Once Keith has it running it would be great for you to go to see it cutting chips. I'm sure that Keith will pick your brains out learning how to run it.
He's working on it,so hold on young man. ;)
Keith is extraordinarily avuncular, Thanks
You made my day. Thanks for the video. It's appreciated.
Hay, Keith, drill tap and put a screw in that key and use a slide hammer to tug it out.
Well after you got it as far as you did, just pound the gear back on and the key would halv probably worked it's way out.
owell making a new shaft is always fun.
You could have done a hex or square shaft on the end. So instead of the crank you could have used a ratchet with socket. The ratchet being easier and directional. Then slip it off and not need to make a new crank. Just my 2 pennies.
Nice work Keith! I love seeing these machines that helped build America being restored and used once again.
Just a thought, you can purchase, or in your case make, a keyed shaft socket. My thought would be to used a socket and ratchet wrench on the shaft instead of a fixed position handle. Just a thought maybe. Keep up the nice work!!
I hope you are going to clean those parts as well just as a thank you to him for sending the parts in the first place.
Lots of hit-and-miss engine flywheels are held on with those tapered gib keys... I imagine that really locks things in place. Probably not so important here.
Looking good, thanks for sharing.
Hiya Keith
Well done. This planner video serie makes it like Christmas when You launch a new episode.
Early in the video, time 5 minutes, You start the battle to remove the gear from the shaft. Why not put the lot in the press and press out the shaft from the gear and save both parts?
06:45 Keith successfully makes a round hole out of a square peg.
Looks great
All original is good, but updated with new technology to move, adjust and monitor would in my opinion get a nice touch. A DRO of sorts would be awesome. And perhaps a frequency converter for different operations. I know, that not original.....but combining different eras of technology get me going.
A DRO on the planer. What a hoot!
No opinion on how you should have done something, I enjoy watching your work , keep it up.
How about a plain hand wheel with no handle/knob about 10" dia on the end of that upper shaft ? That way you don't have to reach all the way above the shaft and can just grip the bottom rim of the wheel several times to rotate the shaft 360 degrees. If you make the wheel a couple of inches bigger than the gear you can keep your knuckles away from the gear teeth. Should be easier to adjust from floor level. Also if the shaft is powered from the other gear and flat belt there is not a handle to come around and bonk you on the head... Great work, enjoy your videos.
Nice!!
It would be interesting to compare the original bevel gear for fit compared to you new one. The new one seems to have a lot of play in it and from what I saw of the original, it was only a little bit of tooth that was missing from the least important end - so I'd prefer the original gear ! As for the handwheel, depending on how fast the shaft rotates, it'd be a neat idea to put a sliding key on the handle so it can be disengaged from the shaft for when the shafts spins faster - presumably under power.
Good Job Keith. I think that shaft needs the same gold paint you used on the patient highlights. Just my 2 cents
Y Pop, give it a little bling!
I was a little surprised that you didn't get the bevel gear and support loose and try driving the key out from the back with a pin punch. Still might not have worked, but seems like it would have been easy to try.
Hi Keith,
I wonder how many viewers like me thought why has he left the new shaft longer... then you told us...
Take care
Paul,,
The key is called a gib head key and are a pain if they lock on. However if you give the wheel a clout at the centre boss then they would tend to loosen the key.
We then used a gib key remover. It was called a boomerang and how they were made is they had slight taper on the edge that engaged against the gib head.. This stopped the Gib head from breaking off. Gib heads where never clouted into the keyway and wheel boss but just a firm bedding tap to get the “keyed result”.
Don't worry about historical accuracy. There are already modifications made in the past, such as the tapped hole in the gear for a handle. Most old machinery has been modified to some degree for ease of operation, when it was used everyday.
"a lot of people have been telling me there's no way it'll work" -- have you been reading comments again?
"Man who say a thing cannot be done, should not interrupt man doing it"
Usually it's these guys whose tool box consists of a single screwdriver, some lint and a tampon
@@StanislavG. What would they use the tampon for? :-D
@@LambertZero nose bleeds caused by sticking their noses where they aren't wanted.... ;)
To be honest. It might (will) work, but it would not if any accurate meshing was needed. The tooth profile ist just an approximation of what it should be
Hi Keith. When you started to remove the gear I was hoping you would stop and try it next video. The reason being is that 'shopdogsam' did an excellent video on removing flywheels etc held in place with those type of keys a couple of years ago. His system worked very well with a high success rate. What he did was weld an extension onto the key and the pulled the key out. Rod
Algorithm good job as usual!
Did you put any flats on the shaft under the gear? Or did you use a drill to make a little seat for the gear set screw??
maybe yes maybe no the whole head and lift assembly needs to be level and true then I guess the bevel gears will be locked and timed for proper operation
nice work keith! love watching you do work. Maybe it's me but wasn't that spindle speed a bit high for those large drills...?
You cleaned and painted off camera? How could you? I was so hoping to watch paint dry today. :-)
Did you try knocking it back on some to see if the key would pop out
Hi Keith, why didn't you try to pull that gear off with al gear puller?
Are the leadscrews left and right hand threaded for raising the axis? Otherwise, does the bevel gear need to be on the other side? It's looking good Mr Rucker!
Look back to the shot of the original shaft, I can’t see any witness marks so the gears are in the same place as before, so you deduction seems sensible..
Is there a flat milled on that shaft for the bevel gear set screw? If one of those gears slips on the shaft, the whole head goes cockeyed and all that scraping and measuring becomes a waste of time.
You can not have flats because you need to make fine adjustments to equalize the height from one side to the other, and the torque on the shaft is only about five to ten pounds max. It is a slow turning shaft and can be turned by hand.
@@july8xx True, but it will never be possible to get the tram of those gears perfect. The variation of the clearance between the various bevel gears and the lash in the screws and nuts will mean that the head will never travel up and down in a perfect straight line. Of course this machine was never intended to cut parts to precise tolerances- this was the 19th century age of steam and it was built to whack away huge chunks of metal from big castings.
@@oldschool1993 You would be surprised at how close you can get the tram on that machine, flats would limit you and are not necessary.
@@july8xx I would be surprised if it could get within 0.020" flatness across the width of the bed. There are too many moving parts that are operating in simple castings- not sure if the mounting brackets even have a bushing supporting the shaft- same for the verticals- each of those parts needs clearance to operate and the clearance will be different on each one. Gears by their very nature have to have clearance, and no 2 are exactly the same, so as the gears engage , one will always start to move slightly ahead or behind the other. I have some experience in this, as I once built a mini CNC machine with the same basic design and I used some very high quality bevel gears, ball screws and ball bearing supports etc. and it was an endless job of fiddling trying to coordinate the parts to get results of 0.001" repeatability. The real proof will be if at the end of this process, he slaps a 4' x 6' slab of steel on the table and planes it down and then measures it side to side and end to end.
@@oldschool1993 ....You need to travel back to 1880 and show those guys how to do it.
Could you have used a sheave puller to get the gear off the shaft?
In the long term might you paint the center portion of your new shaft to keep the rust off?
I assume you will lubricate it when you are closer to operation.
the more i think of it i see you might run into some problems with leveling the cross slide when adjusting to different heights. both thread spindles with the bevel gear assembly need to be perfectly synchronized, meaning same pitch without wear, perfectly skimming bevel gears with the same effectve diameter and exactly the same amount of backlash.
you might need to get new sets of bevel gears, don't think it's going to work properly with the old ones.
Those keys are called "Gib" keys.
Wait... aren’t those bevel gears supposed to be on the same relative side of the columns? Otherwise one side is lowering while the other side is lifting. Unless one side has left handed threads but that doesn’t seem right. Am I wrong?
I had the same thought, so I went and checked the first video. The bevel gears was mounted mirrored there, so I guess the screws must be as well.
ua-cam.com/video/wycU52BR0Oc/v-deo.html
Ever heard of a taper extractor?
vintage machine, you should be using a rocker post and hss. lol
I'm surprised those bevel gears are only held onto the shaft with a set screw and not keyed to it, I can see them slipping under load very easily and scoring up the shaft.
what about tigging to the end of the key, bolt nut anything, then let it cool. i done that with some thing not shire if it would work for something like that but maybe next time give it a try.
pan
Why didn't we use a gear puller?
It is a gib head key. When you tried to drive the shaft out you were only making it tighter. Would like to have seen you drive the gear farther on the shaft, would have loosened the key. Even drill and tap key and pull it out with all thread.
Knowing what I know about gib keys you should have knocked the gear in a little to loosen the tension. This works most of the time but not always. Your shop and your way is what's best.
I missed the painting and gold lettering of the gear to make it “like new” after 140 years!
When you drilled into the key, I thought you were going to tap it and use a bolt to pull it out.
Be interesting to see how level the cross slide stays as it’s jacked up, those gears don’t seem to be as precision as the scraped ways.
all in due time
The tapered item is called a Gib head key. A real pain to remove I used a slow tapered drift between the head and the pulley boss. It was a finicky process.
shopdogsam is the man when it comes to gib keys
Nice, as always, Keith.
I am curious, though. Why didn’t you just replace the end of the shaft you cut off?
Not criticizing, just curious.
Great job.
Thanks,
John
well it is pitted anyways as he said
Given that the shaft must run very true, I'm guessing it would have been a lot more work to weld a new oversized end to the mainshaft, straighten the mainshaft , and then machine the new end true. Also, no guarantees all of that would work out correctly. For modest $$ Keith just bought a new shaft & machined exactly what he needed, plus the extension for a handle.
Possibly. I was curious about what Keith was thinking.
I always learn something from that.
Thanks,
John
when are you going to get your own press?
I wish you hadn't skipped some parts in front of Camera.
I guess, you have to make thread pin to covering that thread hole on the gear, before painting. Because that hole looks awful.
#1
Eric McRae,🏆🥇
3 jaw puller from Harbor Freight??????
You didn’t try a puller.
I picked up some cast wheels the other day. They are 10 inches in diameter with a 3/4 in square hole in the center. I got one cleaned up today and it appears to be off some kind of valve. I was thinking it might work as a wheel to operate the planer head instead of a handle. If you think you can use it for that or some other project let me know at rhayden2k@hotmail.com . I would be more than happy to send one or more to you. I have been privileged to watch your videos and learned a lot from you. Thank you for your efforts and passing on the knowledge.
Hi, Keith, when you turn a long shaft like that, do you use a slide-on bushing in the back of the drive tube to maintain the stock in dead centre of the tube?
He should, but in case you didn't notice, Keith was in a hurry to get this done and correct shop practice takes a beating when machinists and other craftsmen are so inclined.
Just curious, could you have drilled a threaded hole into the key and pulled it out with a slide hammer? Our mechanics use those all the time to pull tapered pins.
Btw. pushing that rod just causes the tapered key to jam even tighter. Should have been easier to push the gear back, so the key comes loose
That's just what I was going to suggest. I've pulled them before by Tig welding a cut off grade 8 bolt to the key and then threading a slide hammer on to the bolt. The residual heat from welding helps break the key loose as well.
Leave the man alone if he want's to make a pig's ear out of it well let him, alsp could have tried to knock the shaft from the other end
I came here to make the same suggestion. Always more than 1 way to skin a cat. Might as well replace the old rusty pitted shaft while you are at it lol.
@@steamfan7147 I've seen that work in some freaking hard case situations - Andrew Camarata did it on some big crawler or something. I couldn't believe he pulled it off (ba dum dum!) also Marty T down in New Zealand did this a time or two.
@@silasmarner7586 I've done it many times over the past 30 odd years as a machinist/fabricator, has made my life a lot easier many times.
Thank you Keith, we are all anxious to see this operational.
Knocking the gear back on might have loosened the key.
you beat me to it... usually the way to go, that and ALOT of penetrating oil...;
I wonder if Keith is going to retrieve the Steam stoker crankcase from Abom79 and do the planing on it himself.
Yeah- should have driven the gear instead of the shaft- that would have released the tension on the tapered key, then maybe weld something onto the key to get ahold of it and pull it out.
I was thinking disassemble the shaft from the brackets and bevel gears and then knocking the key out from the backside.
@@oldschool1993 It got too deep for that, a mushroom had stopped it earlier.
The tapered pin or what was left of it got wedged in the slot tighter and tighter.
I would think a ship wheel would be easier to raise and lower the head by hand than a crank handle.
Johnny, that was my exact thought.
No gear puller?
I have had good results by in place of driving the shaft out of the gear, drive the gear onto the shaft further. A pipe that is slightly larger than the shaft and key works nice as a punch. Then the key can be removed. After the key is gone, the gear usually comes off with little difficulty.
It's looking magnificent!
Your bevel gear looks and works perfectly. Great job.
It's surprising that you don't have a hydraulic press with all the machine tools that you have.
I'd love to see him build one from scratch.
JimTheSoundman, with power hydraulics!
I think the press at the museum is build by Keith.
very good video..thanks for your time