Repair Your Rider With Confidence! How To 100% Diagnose A Broken Cam Shaft in Your Briggs & Stratton
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- Опубліковано 21 жов 2024
- Does your Briggs and Stratton Single Cylinder engine not want to start or drags when you try to start it? Afraid to tear into it, to find a job to big to handle? Check out this tutorial on how to 100% diagnose with confidence, information about where to find THE BEST, step by step cam shaft repair tutorial AND how to avoid the problem from happening to you again!
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My name is Bre. I took two years of small engine repair at the local college. When I left school, I fell into a wonderful job at a local small engine shop where I worked the counter for a couple years. In 2010 my husband and I opened up our own small engine shop in central Arkansas where I am able to work alongside my family and best friends. We saw over 2,000 pieces of small engine equipment every year, and answer 1,000's of small engine questions. We specialize in brands such as Briggs and Stratton, Kohler, Echo and Shindaiwa, but work everyday on MANY other brands like Stihl, Husqvarna, Honda, Craftsman, Remington, Red Max, Troy Bilt, Scag, Bad Boy, Hustler, World Lawn, Poulan, Mantis, Etc.. Hopefully, my experience I share, will save you Time, Money and Frustration in the future!
DISCLAIMER: Links included in this description might be affiliate links. If you purchase a product or service with the links that I provide I may receive a small commission. There is no additional charge to you! Thank you for supporting my channel so I can continue to provide you with free content each week!
Although very informative, these videos are for entertainment purposes. Please use all possible safety precautions when repairing and operating your small engine equipment.
I've been a lawyer for 27 years, and watching your videos makes me regret it. The joy on your face when you get something running is priceless. Plus, I do love the smell of oil and a little gasoline. Thanks for your sage advice.
Get Kroil. yes. I use Kroil and it is an engine workers/machinists smell.
A lot of people do small engine work part time .
Aw! Thank you!
We all have our place in this world I reckon. I hope you have a beautiful day sweetheart
Not used to being talked to like that , but thank you .
By far the most gorgeous mechanic on the planet.. 😄
Past Deere dealer tech assistance here - fastest way to see if you have a compression release issue is check the compression. If the ACR is working compression will be @ 75-85 psi. If above that or for sure over 100psi - then you know you have an issue. I think they would hit around 120 pai when totally not working (broken spring). Then do as you did, check valves, etc. Great vids by the way.
It was around 20 years ago, that they started seriously reducing the amount of ZDDP - the additive they use to add zinc and phosphorous - in engine oil.
The reason? The EPA decided that they wanted the OEM car manufacturers to double the life of catalytic converters on cars, before they became clogged and needed replacement.
It turns out, that the zinc and phosphorous in the oil mist that got sucked into the intake, from the Crankcase Ventilation system, burned in the cylinders and then shoved out the exhaust, was a contributing factor in how fast the catalytic converter clogged up - the zinc and phosphorous reacting with the metals in the catalytic converter.
So the easiest and cheapest way for the OEM's to extend the life of the catalytic converters and meet the EPA regulations, was to ask the oil companies to come out with new API Grades of engine oil, with greatly reduced amounts of zinc and phosphorous, and specify their use in their new vehicles.
Any oil with an API Grade newer than the old SG/SH/SJ ratings, has reduced zinc and phosphorous in it.
And as you said in the video, older engines and flat tappet engines, that were designed to use oils with the higher levels of zinc and phosphorous, will end up wearing out faster - wearing out the engine prematurely to save that precious catalytic converter.
That's why these days, you see bottles of aftermarket ZDDP engine oil additives being sold at auto parts stores - so that people with older vehicles that need the higher levels of zinc and phosphorous, can boost those levels in today's generic engine oil, without having to spend the time and money finding boutique oils specifically made for those older engines.
Just have a look at light to heavy duty diesel engine oils...the ZDDP can come as standard in those....
been running my Kawasaki FV JD FX85 with the full flow oil filter (Baldwin car style filter) on 15w/40 diesel engine oil with standard ZDDP for the last 20 years...no problems...
but I live in a temperate climate so not hot as.....
Classic liberal solution which creates another issue. Greenies never-ever think things through.
The mower was five years old, but it might have been sitting at the big box store for two and a half years. This is why you should check the model year when you are looking to buy a new mower.
The same thing goes for buying car tires.
@@rrvancilfulone of the benefits (other than price and service) of buying car tires from either Costco (and batteries) or Discount Tire. They are both rigorous about only stocking fresh tires (and batteries at Costco).
True! It’s not unusual for them to sit for a year, maybe two! They sit long enough for the parts to rust and the battery to die! Everyone always wants the pretty new one! Every now and then, they’ll sell the old ones for a few hundred bucks, just to get rid of them!
It is the best camshaft replacement video on the entire internet. Nothing is omitted.
Except how to adjust the valves if they are out of adjustment.
We have a craftsman professional with a 24 horse motor we are having to spin it to the sweet spot like you did. It has not crossed my mind that there could be a problem with the camshaft.
Thank you for sharing.!
Video is spot on! I have had this issue for 2 yrs. To atart my machine i remove the air cleaner and hold a piece of cardboard flat aginst the carb, turn the key and as it turns over remove the cardboard. Fires every time..just cant shut it off till you get to where you want to park it.
I thank the lord theres people out there like you that are willing to help people like me.
I bought my used craftsman lawnmower about six years ago. It did about the same as what this craftsman did accept that I had the bump that she talks about. Hence, I adjust the valves and everything worked fine afterwards. Hence, I never adjusted the valves again until early this Spring. But I would suggest you do it annually like this pretty lady says because I should have done it sooner. Happy mowing everyone. 😂
Briggs and Stratton recommends adjusting valves every 250 hours. If you only put 50 hours per year on equipment, that is every 5 years, not every year. Some engines I work on have never had the valves adjusted with several hundred hours on them.
I gave up on my last rider because it was a hard crank even with a new battery and starter , I wonder if it’s just a bad cam , it’s still parked in the weeds on my property. I may check it out . Great video . Thanks
Thanks for the heads up on the zinc! I made sure I was using the proper weight big box automotive oil but never checked it for zinc!
First of all, I love your videos. Many years ago I bought a brand new LA125 John Deere riding mower. It had a 42 inch deck and a 20 horsepower motor. This mower is now over 25 years old. I have replaced the front tires several times, but now I have solid front tires. The back tires are still factory ones. Since owning it, I'm now disabild and on social security. I always did my own oil changes, resharpening the blades and the tune ups. It also has a hydro transmission. And I cut several yards in my small neighborhood. Just to make some extra spending money. Now when I do a yard, included in the price is the edging, trimming and blowing everything clean. And I do everything from the seat of my mower. But one day my motor was making a lot of noises, even though it had oil in it. I always check my oil level before starting to cut a yard. This was loud. So I contacted my local John Deere shop and they gave me a great price on a 18 house power motor, new of course. Took it there and 4 days later I picked it up. Then 3 years ago the internal bearings on the deck went out. So again I called them and they installed a brand new 42 inch deck. It's much cheaper then buying a new mower. I have one shelve in my garage with the parts that I buy at Home Depot. Lowe's only handles those electric crappy mowers. I watched your video on buying those parts which saved me a ton of money. Thank you for that video. My neighbor asked me about my mower and I told him the truth. Well he bought a orange riding mower. Now he wishes he bought a John Deere. During the slow season I take out my battery and connect it to a trickle charger. Like I said I do my oil changes plus the tune up. Spark plug, fuel filter and lube all the grease fittings and clean out the air filter. It's only been replaced twice so far. Also before the dead season I empty the gas tank and run it till it's empty. I also check my tire pressures. Thanks to you this mower will outlast me. Thank you for all your great videos. I could only wish that you was close to Jacksonville, FL. So I could buy some back tires from your collection of junk mowers. Again Thank you for what you do. Your tallest fan with one leg. I stand at 7 foot 3 inches tall
hi Bre just wanted to let you know i’m a huge fan! and i watch pretty much every single one of your videos as soon as they come out!
I've owned one of these engines in an older lt1000 craftsman. The biggest problem I've noticed is the fuel solenoid system can't hold back the fuel from gravity feeding into the cylinder and hydrolocking the engine with gasoline. Also, that gasoline filling the cylinder leaks past the piston rings, diluting the engine oil. This in turn accelerates bearing wear, and cam wear. A simple fuel shutoff valve installed in the fuel line to the carb that you shut off and let the carb consume its float bowl supply, will prevent this from happening.
I have upgraded to a John Deere LA145 that I rescued and restored, the battery and fuel tank being opposite of the craftsman tractor has been a great change. Jumpstarting is easier, and refueling is also easier.
They should come with a manual fuel cut off valve
@@philliphall5198 for sure. My tractor learned that from the previous owner.
The reason the fuel shutoff solenoid is not stopping the carb from feeding the cylinder and hydrolocking the engine and filling the crankcase with gas, is that is not its purpose and will in no way prevent the float valve from overfilling the carb leading to all your issues. The solenoid has one purpose and that is to help prevent the bang from the muffler after shutting off the engine. The proper fix is to remove, clean and repair the carb with a repair kit, and make sure the float will seal from fuel leaking.
@@ngnmech wasn't even aware of that. The fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line made the problem disappear.
@@markk3652 There is a lot of misconception over the function of that solenoid on the carb, and there are still a lot of people believe it shuts off fuel flow like a shutoff valve.
You are such a doll! I wasn't aware that you needed zinc in the oil. I looked up on Amazon and B&S oil they sell doesn't say it has zinc. I think I'll just add some to the oil. Thank you for all your videos and saving me time, money and frustration. 😊😊
We use Kendall oil that has has zinc added to the oil. Kendall will ship the cases of oil directly to your address. All of our Tractor & truck engines have flat tappet cams & lifters as well as being technically antique too. All used regularly for our farm.
@@frederickbooth7970 Cool! Thanks for the info. I'll check it out.
@@joeblow5154 I always try to help others when I can.
Never fails,I just learned something again,Thanks a Bushel Bre
Good video. Knowing the code date helps in finding the correct part since changes may happen during production.
Great video as always! I just got done yesterday replacing the bottom push rod on my dads 2009 Troy Built Pony (Briggs & Stratton 17.5hp engine). the bottom rod was bent but nothing was broke inside, thankfully! glad you posted this as i did gap each lash like you showed and the thing runs great, what i didn't know was i should be checking the gap each year so thanks for this info you're awesome!
The rod bent when it fell out of the rocker arm...because the valve lash was too loose!
Seen the same on an 18.5hp single cylinder horizontal shaft B7S engined RER mower.
New push rod, valves adjusted...up up and away again!
Hey Bre: you are tough stuff, baby...Love watching you go!
I guess you’ve trained me well. As soon as you said the customer moved the flywheel and was able to get the engine to crank over and hearing the engine cranking stall when it hit compression, I remembered how Bre described the symptoms of camshaft decompression failure. This Padawan has learned much!
thank you kind lady. have to be honest. we do not have a big lawn any more. moved to the coast . small house ,small yard . and a whole bunch of free time. but thank you.
Been watching you fo🎉r a while now before the move and after I love the way you explain it simply and to the point you are a damn good mechanic I really enjoy watching you keep up the good work young lady
I just happened across this channel while looking at reviews for a riding mower prior to just buying it recently. The tips I’ve learned from some previous videos of yours are very helpful. Things I wish I knew years ago.
The video you made on pre -mixed fuel actually saved my chainsaw and my leaf blower! they are both Stihl and haven't run this well in along time Thank You very much!👍👍
oh boy. listening to the classic sounds of a starting/cranking issue. still watching..... hoping to save myself time money and frustration maybe sunday.
I would have checked to see if there was gas in the oil. It could have initially been hydro-locked. Great videos!
Hey Bree, I tried your suggestion for spot remover on old skin and some of mine have disappeared, guess the others there is just no hope as you only get older and never younger. Thanks for the zinc tip, never even thought about it except for my classic engine in my car that has flat tappet cam and lifters but it is basically the same concept.
👍🏼 for the zinc. Didn’t know this. Now I know.
Somehow my 2009 19.5 Briggs / JD is still working at 310 hours with using just Mobi1 Synthetic and now just Pennzoil Platinum Synthetic each season. I've only used the maintenance kit 1 time, which includes the Turf Guard oil. Just adjusted the valves for the first time after replacing the head gasket (minor blow-by leak)- and they were not out of tolerance. Changing the oil at the recommend interval is probably the biggest factor that prevents that little decompression valve from breaking.
Cool vid…Although you might mention that getting camshafts could be a bit of a problem last I heard for a Briggs!
I’ve been watching for about 1 weeks now. You might see message if I’m watching past videos
I love watching your videos, I learn a lot even thought everthing small engine related I have gone all electric (I never had good luck tinking with mechanical things, I tinker on computers)
Great stuff, as usual! I use to have my cub serviced here in Benton, but they closed shop here and their other place is only in Hot Springs. If they told me that I would not have given them my business. Their location here was very convenient
Thanks for you sharing your wealth of knowledge with us
Great video explaining how and why this failure can happen. Thank you for sharing
I think it is time to get the Corvette running. It is way more fun to drive than any lawn mower, LOL
I never knew the difference between lawn mower oil and regular SAE-30. It is difficult to find regular SAE-30 these days. My mowers are both are pretty old, and I have always used SAE-30. The rider, '95 model Craftsman, w/20hp Kohler died one day just as I started it and pulled out of the garage. It turns over hard, but won't start. I had a feeling it has something to do with the valves, but never checked it out. Thanks! Now I know what to look for.
Good morning
You rock, Brie!
Thanks as always Bre !! Have a wonderful holiday weekend from ole "TIMEARL"......
Thanks for the Video...Enjoy your channel!!
I inherited a JD L100 about 3 years ago. It was pretty thrashed, but I cleaned it up, replaced the leaking fuel pump, PTO cable and spindles (needed reinforcement rings) and blades. It has an old 17hp B&S "bucket engine", while I adjusted the valve lash, I pretty sure the compression release is broken, but I turn the crank back and it starts every time and runs great. I use it to knock down the grass around my property every spring (takes about 8 hours) and I figure as long as I change the oil once a year it could last another 20 years.
Hey Bre! 👋 Good morning.
Where is she from???
Thanks for the advice and video. I have the same motor in my Toro and now I know what to do.
Thank you! I continue to learn from you!
Got the plastic welder like urs. Game changer& my new toy. Thanks 4 ur streams...
Another great video. I followed your instructions (previous video) on replacing camshaft, but from bitter experience I'd advise also replacing sump oil seal. I didn't....and oil gushed everywhere. Luckily it is easy to replace without taking the engine apart again.
Everything you described points to my lawnmower having a broken camshaft. The previous owner neglected any maintenance for 400 hours. I've done the maintenance on it now at 700 hours. Everything else on it is worn slap out. I'll ride it til it dies from a bad camshaft
I purchased the 11 Pcs Carburetor tool kit, and the Endoscope that you have listed on your amazon page. 💯👍
Its amazing what you can diagnose by removing the valve cover. I've got a big spartan in my shop with the big vanguard motor that bent and threw both pushrods on #2.
Nice job as usual Bre! Heads Up ! Taryl is thinking of closing shop!
Thank you, keep working.
Great tip about the decompression. Thanks
Always a pleasure to watch and so informative. Thank you
I found your channel and have learned so much. Thank you for your time and detailed explanation of how things work. I have been working on small engines for over 35 yrs. and always pick up a tip from you. The question I have I use only Stihl equipment. What 2 stroke oil have you found to be the best or what do you recommend? I use the Stihl HP Ultra but have heard some bad things regarding the lubrication properties. Thanks for your time.
I have a YT-3000 Craftsman
When I bought it from a yardsaler, it did not want to turn over without running down the battery. After some research I found out that if the valves were out of adjustment, the compression release would not activate. After watching a few videos on adjusting the valves, I completed that task. this has been since 2018 and the Briggs 21 horse Platinum has been running perfectly. I remove my own ethanol and add one ounce of two stroke oil per 5 gallons of fuel. This reduces carbon,improves ring sealing, and practically eliminates oil use by the engine.
Ok, adding 2 stroke oil to a 4 stroke does not, in ANY WAY, help your engine. It doesn't reduce carbon or improve ring sealing. What it does is help the engine pollute even more than it already does, but one ounce in 5 gallons isn't enough to really do anything, anyway. I have the same exact tractor with a Kohler 22hp. Big single cylinder.
@@brandonhebert5485
What it shows is an owner that cares......
I really like your videos. Lots of good info and tricks and tips. Would love to see something on a Snapper Z Rider Yard Cruiser. I have one as a project, and an a little nervous about the hydro drive trans. Great work and thank you.
Great advice on the oil girl. Mobil 1 race oil or any of the Mobil 1 apoved for Porch or Merceeds has a great chem mix for tappet style engines as well as most aviation oil or diesel oil
About the oil. While you are right about the zinc in the oil, I was told to use 10w 30 for mowers with valve covers and 30w for those w/o. Thanks for your video.
A lot of diesel engine oils (at least outside USA) come with ZDDP as standard....
been running a JD push mower (JX85 with Kawasaki FV engine) for the last 20 years on 10w40 diesel oil (ZDDP) as standard...
Another run it till it breaks deal. 👍
Hi Bre, Ive watched your videos before-very good... about to join/subscibe...I was a mechanic most of my life and did the small engine repairs for about 5 yrs total. Im in Norfolk, VA now-from CT originally. I may jump back in to being that type of mechanic agin next week-switching jobs...I did buy your suggested camera last night to see inside the motors since Im still fixing stuff on the side...I enjoy it still. Thanks!
Good morning!!! Thanks for the great content. Have a question regarding a Briggs and Stratton engine in a craftsman mower. The fresh start cartridge. Do I need to keep buying those or can I put an additive in the fuel???
All the fresh start does is drip a stabilizer into the tank. You can use your own.
Hey Bree,
I have read comments stating that you should not use lithium ion jump starters, like the one you used in this video, to start lawn tractors because they can burn out the starter on the lawn tractor.
I have the exact same jump pack that you do and love it! If you see this comment and have the time, your thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not Bre, but I'll tell you what my opinion is on that. Whoever posted about a jump pack burning up a starter doesn't know much about electronics. The starter will only draw the amount of current it needs to turn the starter. You could connect a huge truck battery to the small starter and it would not cause any harm. It would start just the same as a small mower battery. The only requirement is that the battery or jump pack, or whatever you are using, be the same voltage as the starter needs, in this case, 12 volts.
@@Bellboy40
Agreed.
If necessary I use my diesel engined 4wd's large battery to jump start everything that needs jump starting.....
it can only hurt it if you are a moron and just keep cranking on the starter...
then the starter will overheat no matter what size battery is connected to it.
I JUST LOVE THIS CHANNEL...I want to work for you!
I bought a T110 at the start of spring without knowing about the whole Briggs cam issues. Good thing is I'm mechanically inclined and take good care of my stuff. I'm no stranger to dismounting, disassembling and repairing engines, so none of this is over my head. I would like to know if the decompression trigger has ever been resolved in later builds of the engine, though.
Bre great tip for the oil with Zinc... I never realised that for small engines. I used to race and when we built a new engine we used what is called break in oil that too contained zinc.
Do all small engines require oil with zink? Everything from push mower to commercial zero turns?
@@ctfan1486 If you have a small engine with OHV for sure. The EPA had the amount of zinc reduced I think in the 80's. Many older style car engines required it and now it is playing havoc on camshafts and rocker arms by wear on start up
Very timely, my T 110 back fired this morning when I cranked it, then it started. A couple of restarts later, no spin till I moved the flywheel. About 4 years to the day from new, from Lowe’s. I’ll check the valves tomorrow. Battery is 4 weeks old. I know how to do the job, but getting up after getting down is tough and I can’t pick the engine up off the frame. I’ll call a friend for that. Fingers crossed
How did you go with the job on your T110????
Same problem?
Yes, I know about Fix a Flat. I use green slime. As for my front tire, I bought a tire already mounted on a rim. But I paid 65 dollars. But it's a solid front tire. Will never go flat. That's what the paper says.
That Craftsman T110 mower you worked on in this video was actually made by MTD Products, and I own almost the exact same riding mower myself except that it's an MTD/Huskee LT4200 and it's a year older than this Craftsman mower was -- otherwise, the exact same mower with the exact same 500cc 17½-horsepower Briggs & Stratton engine with the mechanical compression release for the exhaust valve on its camshaft that just might fail on me this year!
But at least I've taken better care of this engine in my own riding mower than the owner of your Craftsman mower did; changing its motor oil and its air and fuel filters at the end of each season -- but not its spark plug, which finally wore out to the point of complete failure last year!
Nor have I ever checked the engine's valve clearances on it, as you did on the Craftsman mower's engine in this video, a job that Briggs & Stratton states in this engine's owner's manual should be done annually -- though the engine owner's manual states, "Not required unless engine performance problems are noted."
As for Briggs & Stratton's oil recommendations for their small engines, that company's current recommendation is for synthetic oil in their engines, even ahead of its own-branded "conventional" motor oil that you featured in this video -- and if you do use "conventional" oil in that company's small engines, you should use straight 30-weight oil (API Service SJ or greater) at temperatures of 80-degrees F. or above because "10W-30" oil will thin out at higher temperatures and result in higher oil consumption.
Other maintenance items for this engine I have in my own MTD/Huskee LT4200 riding mower: Clean or replace the engine's air filter every 25 hours, change the engine oil every 50 hours, remove any accumulated debris from around the engine's muffler and cylinder area every 50 hours, and replace the spark plug and fuel filter annually -- and to better help me maintain that schedule, I put one of those "engine hour meters" on my mower, which I highly recommend. (Here's a link to one of several UA-cam videos featuring the one I installed on both my riding mower and the MTD/Bolens push mower I own: ua-cam.com/video/7p3hYXFWWnw/v-deo.html.
Good morning Bre,
Could I please ask for your opinion on a Husqvarna TS242XD lawn tractor?
I’m 70 years old and I am in great shape other than an issues with my right hip. So, as much as I love my Honda walk behind and enjoy cutting my lawn with it, it may be time for me to go with a rider.
Thank You for all that you do!
I so wish you would make a series of videos starting with riding mowers, zero turns, push, trimmers, saws, Etc of good used brands and models to look for than seem to last forever.
I have an old inexpensive murray 40" rider i converted to propane that runs on and on. Figured the tranny would have crapped by now but the only issuse is the deck rusting out needed welded again..
Thanks Bre
I have that same mower, but mine has a different motor. It has the MTD design motor...so far, so good.
Learn a lot from you. Thanks so much. 👍👍👍
I have been using Shell Rotella in my mowers for several years now more zinc in diesel oil
I enjoyed the lawyers comments thank you
Good video, I have a 25 hp Kawasaki that says on the dipstick 30w or 10w30 SJ should I be using zinc based oil? The oil I use is automotive oil.
I watch both of your videos camshaft thank you🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸😎😎💝🇺🇸💝🇺🇸
Did small engines always have a compression release, or was the starting system just beefier in older engines to crank with the higher compression? Seems like a better starter should eliminate the problem.
No , the early Briggs L head engines had a modified cam lobe that held the valve open slightly longer than it should to act as a compression release, but the engine ran on the reduced compression. The Kohler Command engines don't use compression release because of the hydraulic lifters. The Kohler Courage twin didn't either, and causes starter issues, but the replacement cam does have one. And the Courage replacement the 7000 and 7500 series does. And I believe the old K series Kohler engine did have a compression release. Don't know about the early Kawasaki or Honda engines.
Great video..i been running Motorcraft 10/30 Powerstroke Diesel oil in my 24 hp Jd with Briggs engine..says on bottle over 1000 ppm phosporus.....has 850 hrs and 18 years old....one more thing...i heard somewhere that some Kohler engines have hydralic lifters....not sure true and wonder if Kawisaki does to?
Thanks, Jack, RI, USA
Last year I waited 1 1/2 months for an OEM cam.
I had 9 on order for 3 months
I use Castrol EDGE 5W40 Synthetic VW Engine oil in my John Deere Briggs & Stratton 19.5 hp engine , been 12 years and never had any engine problems cept for the stupid head gasket which is a design flaw of the placement of the head bolts imo.
You'd be right.
There is a gap where that huge cost single head bolt was omitted by the accountants to save money...
and screw their engines and owners....
@@JohnSmith-pl2bk Ya i put gasket shellac on one side of the head gasket" Block side," but mostly only in the area where there should be a head bolt. idea is the head can still move with contracting and expand but the gasket stays put instead of blowing out into the crankcase. its been 3 going on 4 years and the head gasket is still staying in place, so far anyways lol
Holy Cow ! That is good info. Thank you!!
I use Rotella t4 10w30 in all my small engines never had any issues
Great job kid .
Great video, I put an aftermarket camshaft in and I think it’s crap, the rockers don’t seem to move as far as they should and the mower is hard to start and runs pretty crappy especially if you give it some gas, do you think it’s bad ??? It does have the bump tho.
“ FIRST “ Time watcher GREAT INFO on Maintenance & Oil an Repair’s THANKS 👍
What's your opinion of synthetic oil?
You are awesome, thank you 👍😁❤️
Zinc, thanx Bre. 😃
What brand valve cover gasket is recommended....Briggs OEM?
We have a 4-stroke emergency generator that we use for power outages. We have to start and connect our appliances manually. We "TRY TO REMEMBER" to start it once a month and run it for 15 minutes to keep the battery up and the fuel system clean. We use non ethanol gas and try to keep the tank and cans full. We use Stabil in the gas. What is the best way to store the generator and gas, or are we doing it right?
I watch all your videos. Do Kawasaki twin cylinder engines need zinc? Thanks
serious question for you. if you suspect a compression release. why would you still attempt to start it? I ask because I had a deere with a 19.5 last year that the release had broken and wedged the rod and piston which destroyed the engine. why risk something like that?
Whattt????,can’t we just have stuff that works without having to run to the repair shop every second. Btw, keep up the great work. So interesting
I had one of those engines but am glad to say I no longer do!
Does it help or is it better to have twin cylinder, or does this happen more in single cylinder
I've been using 5-30 full synthetic oil in my 18.5 HP Intek for 8 seasons, about 230 hours. I have not had a problem with the compression release so far. You mentioned using oils with zinc additive. I'm wondering if synthetic oil, which is supposedly better for wear properties, is as effective as zinc additive oils? I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks
You are amazing! Great video