Painting chrome trim on scale models
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- Опубліковано 7 лис 2021
- A quick tutorial on how I paint the chrome trim on my model cars.
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Here is a link to this item as well as the glue I use:
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After 12 min I had to hang up! Maybe he could build a model of the short bus he took to school
Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. Hopefully your next project that you try to do trim on works out well for you.
I had a 1968 Mustang GT. The trim parts on the trunk and hood, and rocker moldings were aluminum, but the drip rails and the trim around the windshield, and back glass was stainless steel.
Great, thanks for the illustration. I am currently working on a Shelby GT-500 and can use the tips. It is very helpful seeing another lefty instructing .
I'm glad this helps. I have used bare metal foil before and my problem with it is that depending on the temperature and humidity in the room it can wrinkle and distort. I also have problems cutting it quite so small. For me a paint brush is a much better alternative.
Looking good, thanks for the tips. Having restored a '68 Firebird 400, '70 LeMans Sport, '65 Mustang and a '67 Mustang, FYI, none of these cars haad Aluminum window trims (too expensive) they were all Stainless.
Thank you for watching. Yes, you are correct. I misspoke. At the time I made this video and you are 100% correct? Most of these are a stainless pot metal or stainless steel depending on which manufacturer some are much more flexible than others. I know that bare metal foil is very popular. Way to replicate all of this, but I have seen that from time to time it will wrinkle on. Define details due to changes in heat humidity, such as taking the models to a contest. I also just prefer to paint wherever I can. So I hope this was informative and helpful. It is by no means the only way to replicate the shiny bits on a project.
That glass top is a great idea. Never thought of that. Thanks.
As any good hunter can tell you, it is better to 'exhale' and hold your breathing than to take a breath and hold it. Holding an exhale keeps you steadier. 👍
I discovered the chrome pens a couple years back, and it's made a big improvement on my model cars. Wish we had this stuff in my modeling youth in the 1960s/1970s. 👍
Oh for sure. Thanks for watching
Amazing tutorial! I always use bare metal foil on window trims, side moldings etc. I’m definitely giving this liquid chrome a shot!
Thank you for the kind words. It works very well for me
Thank you for another great video. I haven't put a model together in a long while. What thing that used to help me when it came to raised letters was the eraser end of a new pencil. I'd dab the end of the eraser into the paint, dabbing off any excess and using the eraser on the raised area. Takes a little experimenting with and I doubt I explained it well. Lol
Thank you for commenting. Hopefully this tip will help in the future when you go to do chrome trim.
G'Day maddog. thanks for your time and effort . well done mate
Thanks I hope it's helpful for some people I know most folks like to use BMF.
so glad I'm getting back into scale auto building, I also haven't liked bare metal foil or the pens. I like referencing real photos of the cars I'm building whenever possible to get accurate colors.
Hey merv. Great videos great builds.
Thank you, I hope you like them and I hope there's something you can use in them.
It requires steady hands and metal foil does come in different shades of chrome. Great tutorial !
Cheers mate , will kept that in mind when I build my cars 👍🏻🇦🇺
Yeah I just want to give a option for those who struggle with bare metal foil. Thanks for watching
@@maddogmerv always a pleasure watching
I love the glass plate idea. There are a lot of good ideas and facts in the comments here as well.
What you see on my videos is just the way that I do it and the remodelers kind of different in how they approach things. Hopefully there are some methods or tools that I use that will help others. Thank you for watching
It’s nice to get to the point and show us what you do. Smaller molitow pens are a good way to start. Don’t push when you’re on the subject, push on a piece of plastic to start.
I also use molotow chrome and freehand it
But I’ve since found bare metal foil is just as quick and easy.
But I like to see you unlike some others that use far to much masking tape to do theses little jobs
Thank you for watching and I appreciate the comment. This stuff is awesome for using and so many other ways. Using it as an undercoat for a transparent paint gives a great effect.
Maddog, the window trim and drip rails are not anodized aluminum. That material is used for wheel well moldings and most body accent trim. The windshield, and all the window trim as well as the drip rails are polished stainless steel, without any top coat.ie anodizing. Bumpers and door handles are chrome. All badging is chrome plated, (also used fof some trim pieces) cast soft metals, sometimes called "pot" metal. Just thought you might want to know
Thanks Robert I appreciate it. It was what I was always told the material was called but I've had several folks tell me that that is an error. You know the stuff bands quite easily and doesn't have near the depth of shine that the pleated Chrome does.
I really do appreciate the insight. Thank you again for commenting. Without your guys's input I would never learn and grow
@@maddogmerv some of us learn and grow...other's see windbag snobbery.
Thanks for the video, i will give hand painting trim a shot
I hope it helps. While it may not be the answer to all trim issues it works really well most of the time.
I've found using Tamiya "chrome" silver bottle acrylic with a VERY fine brush and some masking tape works excellent. Then putting Tamiya gloss clear bottle acrylic with a wide brush after the silver dries seals in the silver, and it won't rub off as well as giving it a nice shine.
I cannot use lacquers or enamels because of the smells, so I'm limited to acrylics, and my home isn't amenable to an airbrush - so it's brushes. I've had good luck so far ..
Hey if it works well for you, then go with it, that's for sure. I haven't used to mia Chrome silver, but I used to use other Chrome Silvers all the time and you're right. Putting a layer of gloss coat over that works really well. I just wanted to emphasize with this video. What that these Chrome markers have a lot of different applications And put out some pretty good results. Thank you so much for watching and for commenting.
Future is quite good for protecting acrylic like that. An excellent option to do many of the duties we would use Future for is Tamiya X-22 clear acrylic which comes in jars. Future cures within hours. X-22 seems to take many days before it is unaffected by fingerprints.
Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting. I do like the x - 22 as a clear coat on a lot of my armor and aircraft projects. I'm going to try some other type of clear coat protectant for the Chrome but this worked for now.
Looking good! Certainly seems easier than masking and airbrushing Alclad etc.
Nice tutorial. You could do a bunch of model with one of those 30 ml refill bottles of the chrome paint. Great tip. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching, yes one of those refill bottles will last several years
@@maddogmerv Yeah, I was thinking you could do about 100 models with one bottle.
Nice Idea with future thx!!
*Very cool :))*
Speaking of Molotow chrome ink, I dilute it in laquer thinner and spray it with an airbrush to cover a large surfaces. To protect it I give it a coat of water based acrylic clear. AK gloss varnish.
Great video, I tape off car after a clear coat before I put the decals on and spray Alclad chrome then a layer of Alclad aqua gloss over that. Once sealed in I then do a complete clear spray over the entire model then put the glass in. Comes out gorgeous and far better than that foil nonsense.
Well, thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. One thing I have noticed with foil is depending on the temperature of the room that it's either stored in or displayed in it tends to shrink or expand a little bit. I have great pictures of some car models at different shows where the foil actually has some ripples in it due to the change in the ambient temperature. For me personally I find it much easier to use the paint than trying to use foil and a sharp knife.
I just got into modeling when I retired a year ago. I've done a couple of WW2 planes, and several Star Wars models so no need for chrome. But I built a replica of a light saber using plumbing parts and washer just like the original movie prop. I opened up a Molotow pen thinned it with lacquer and sprayed it through my air brush. I was very satisfied with the results, then I sealed it in with a lacquer clear coat. Unfortunately that turned the finish very dull. I wish I would of watched your video and found out about the pledge gloss before used the lacquer .
Thanks for the video and congrats on the painting small letters with chrome. In my personal experience if you apply Future or Pledge over the Molotow chrome it will fade the shine a little bit so if you really want the chrome finish avoid the Pledge. I think a normal clear coat such as Rustoleum or acrylic clear works better.
TY but negativo if you clear coat it it turns silver. I've tried many types of clear too
Interesting!!! I have never thoght about breathing when doing my brush work... good tips...
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment. But now that I've made that video I can't remember when I paint if it's hold the breath and then let it out as I'm doing the stroke or hold it while I'm doing the stroke. All I know is that the technique I use definitely involves proper breathing to make the stroke as smooth as possible.
Kind of like they teach in Sniper School about breath control before squeezing the trigger.
I've discovered that if you clear coat the molotow, it turns silver. I'll have to try that wax stuff. TY
What a great looking model. Nice job!😉nice lesson!👍🚗🚘✅🆓️🎬..could you use a bamboo shishkabob giant skewer as a pointer to show detailed areas? Easier for my old eyes to see where you are pointing.or the paintbrush handle pointed end. Tnxs
From what I have seen on the Barbatos Rex channel the Molotow liquid chrome can be airbrushed straight out of the bottle it seems to work fairly well. I will be experimenting with that.
Yes I have heard that as well and I am anxious to try it on a car body and then spray over that with a clear red or clear Orange. I think it will make a neat candy paint job.
@@maddogmerv Now, you have given me some ideas to experiment with as well. Try a clear Red, or Blue. Or, Maybe as a base under a metalic color.
I tried to make a video about a year ago yeah I took the frankenstude get that is out and I painted it with a bright gold color has a base and then I went over it with a clear orange and a clear red in a faded pattern. It turned out excellent. I think using the Chrome would be even better.
There's another channel that airbrushed this Chrome it came out pretty good
I do like the liquid chrome to. But it went to flat after clear coating it with a testers' rattle can 😢. I will be trying the future next time.
Yes, it is something that definitely does not like to be clear-coated unless you're using an ultra high gloss clear coat and an acrylic something like future would work pretty well.
New sub maddog merv great looking mustang ill be watching 👍✌️keith
Thank you for subscribing. As you see I do a lot more than just model cars but they really are a passion of mine. And as you can see I've always trusted painting over things like bare metal foil. Some guys get foiled to work great it just doesn't work well for me.
Very nice work. I did not know that molowto was alcohol based, I thought it was an Ink!
Thank you for watching, it might be an ink I really do not know what it's base is however I do know what rubbing alcohol and other alcohols do as far as removing it and I know that some inks I have run into in the past alcohol works well in removing them. I am finding more and more things to do with this liquid chrome! Check out some of my more recent videos I'm using it for all sorts of cool stuff.
I use a 00 brush it works for me that opti thing might help me too at 60 my eyes are not what they use to be lol
I used a similar brush and I definitely have to use my optivisor use that all the time. Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting
Great video: I'm finishing my Bobby Allison 82 Flat Nose Monte Carlo. question, the Chrome will eventually dry correct - I mean after Future coat, it will be dry to the touch?
Thank you in advance.
Best,
Greg
Yes, you can always put a clear varnish over it to protect it and that diminishes the sheen slightly but the choice is yours. It's best to never touch it after it is applied but yes eventually it does dry
If you make a mistake with the chrome and need to clean in up with rubbing alcohol, do you need to do it before the chrome dries? Do you have any problems with the rubbing alcohol dissolving the body paint?
Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. The short answer is no and no. This liquid chrome is fragile. You can chemicaly remove it whenever you like. I quite often go over the trim areas with future (brush painted) a day or so later to help protect them from being accidentally rubbed off. I use almost exclusively enamel or lacquer paints for my bodies so no the rubbing alcohol does not hurt the paint.
Interesting technique. I have a couple of questions.
1. Why don't you use masking tape to facilitate the application of this liquid chrome?
2. I understand that this liquid chrome will fall off easily with the rubbing of the hands, could a clear coat be applied on top to avoid this?
Very good questions. If you were going to use tape I would recommend using Tamia yellow tape. It is in my opinion the best tape on the market for a model building. You could get a much straighter Edge that is for sure however I do like to challenge myself and use the technique of painting it by hand that I have demonstrated on some of my other videos. Basically I hold the brush similar to a pencil and use my pinky as a stabilizer and practice breath control and trying to paint those edges and lines straight. But yes using some good masking tape would definitely yield good results. Secondly you can put something like a future floor finish over it and it will help protect it. I can't remember if I did it on this project or if I've just done it on other projects but it works very well. Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting.
Thanks! How do you find clear coats effect chrome?
It depends on the clear coat. Quite often I will use future or whatever it's called this week. It does a good job of protecting it but does alter the Chrome look just a little bit. Of course it is best not to clear coat it but if you have to experiment on a paint you will first to see what works best for you.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and insights. I'm like you, I love the pin's , they look great and all that stuff. But I just can't get them to work correctly.. And let's be honest, they cost a little bit of money. So spending the money on something that I can't get to work correctly is a big waste of money.
When it comes to the pens I definitely agree I just can never get those pens to flow like they're supposed to. So, I would always wind up taking the liquid chrome out and just using a fine tip brush which I kind of prefer anyway. Then I finally realized if I got the big refill I could use it for many different things including airbrushing large areas.
And hear we are a year later. I went out and got the refill bottle right after I read your reply. I've had that same one all this time.. I've done at least 20 kits since then , and I've hardly touched the bottom.. A drop of it goes a long way for sure.. If I were still using the pens , I would've gone through at least 4 of them .. $$$$$ Getting the refill has saved me a little bit of cash. And I've been really happy with my builds.. Just wanted to let you know that your idea was Great. Have a great New Year's.🎉@@maddogmerv
Have you tried the Molotow pens for doing your chrome trim?
I use the 1mm tip pen and it works great for me.
Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. Yes I have the problem I have found I just cannot get the pen to start and flow properly. Maybe it was the pen that I purchased but it became so frustrating for me that I wound up just taking the material out of the pen and using a fine brush. But when I first was turned on to these pens that was the Allure was having to just use it as a pen and that was a very exciting thought for me. I absolutely love this product.
@@maddogmerv, I have the Molotow pen and it's worked flawlessly for about a year and half now. Make sure you follow the instructions to get the air out of the pen and be sure to prime it properly and it should work for you. Take care.
I have the 0.7, 1.0 and 2.0 mm sizes. Most often I find the finer 0.7mm works best.
Everytime when I spray my model I get to much so how far do I hold the spray can from the model can you help me please thank you
I try to hold the can about a foot away. But it usually winds up being closer to about 8in. It kind of depends on the spray pattern you're getting and how much material is coming out. Always starts spraying a little before you get to the model and a little bit past the model that makes sense. Practice on the project isn't quite as important maybe so you can kind of figure that consistency and distance that you really need. Good luck
Moloto Chrome is an ink, not a paint. If you let it cure for several days it becomes more durable, it can be airbrushed. I thin it with grocery store alcohol.
Whiskey or gin?
@@grantharrismusic Really?
Really?@@grantharrismusic
Thank you for the video but unfortunately the audio got quieter as it went along...
Tha ks for watching. Yes, this video had a few Gremlins in it. I hope it was still helpful.
I've never known BMF to shrink with temperature... maybe the adhesive is breaking down but I'm pretty sure it's not shrinkage..
Thank you for commenting, I wish I could attach a picture here that I took at a local show of exactly what I am describing. I will have to see if I can replicate that in my shop with one of the cars I have in BMF And include it in a future show.
Most guys after they finish a build. They just put it on the shelf and the temperature doesn't fluctuate much where they usually keep them. So usually it's not a problem.
@@maddogmerv I'm debating to BMF or paint the rub rail and window trims on a 78 Monaco contest car.. I don't like applying it but never had an issue after the build.. paint is probably the safer bet though with everything considered...
Thanks for a great tip!! I've gotta get a pair of those 'magnifying glasses'!! Some nice Mustangs too. 👍🦘
Well thank you for watching. I hope this video is helpful for you.
Have u tried hydro dip,or wraps,
Not yet.
How long does the Molotow pen ink take to turn flat silver ( besides with a slight touch?) BMF still is best!
Well, we all have our favorites for sure. I haven't had good success with bare metal foil although it does have its uses, the Molotow is much more versatile than just using it for trim on cars. Lot of guys like BMF and I don't. Thank you for watching and I do appreciate your comments.
To answer your question if you go over it with a clear flat it'll turn it flat silver immediately.
I do like the liquid chrome to. I use testers enamel for my models,but when I clear coated it with testers' rattle, can the chrome goes to flat 😢 . I will be trying the future next time .
Great video,thanks. Does the pen last a while as I see they are not giving them away. Thanks George
Thanks for watching George. The pan does last quite a while however I gave up on using it because for me it's just easier to buy the 30ml refill and for a dab out on my pallet and paint with my brush.
@@maddogmerv so the 30ml refill last a good while ?
The 30ml refill last for quite a while. I have been using it to actually airbrush entire car bodies and several other projects and I still have plenty left so yes it will last quite some time.
If Molotow is easy to rub off, what do you do to protect it? OOPS. I am sure glad that I watched till the end.
Not anodized aluminum either. Dipped pot metal.
Are you an armour modeller aswell by any chance? AKs metal extra colour stuff it's fantastic but along as you use a glass black base then lay the metalizer paint over the top! The polished metal is great for just this job! It doesn't look chrome but a nice anodised alloy! Completely agree with you on that horrid looking trim just ashame the rea vehicles had it I hate anything like the fake chrome like type on vehicle's! Even if my real cars have it it's off painted matt black n stuck back on haha even a badge if it's silver nope can't stand it haha
Yes I build a lot of armor and I used to build a lot of aircraft but I also do ships so pretty much anything. It's nice because there's a lot of crossover in some of the weathering and painting techniques that can help to enhance building cars.
Here's the video of airbrushing that Chrome. ua-cam.com/video/asT9s4uL-ag/v-deo.html
Could I use oil based pens instead of paint on my model cars,for line work,headlights etc...thx
Honestly I don't know. It's not something I have ever tried. You could use an old car body and test that out and see. Thank you for watching
@maddogmerv6743 ok second question opening doors on a metal model car is it possible,the front 2 already come opened and hinged but I'd like the back to do the same??thx
I like to say anything is possible.
It would require a bit of grinding
From the backside and then probably a small packs of some sort to actually Cuts part off. You would have to make the inside parts of the door which you could easily make out of styrene plastic and use epoxy and glue it to the outer door skin. Similarly you could fashion a hinge and make it a working door. I did something similar with a trunk lid on a plastic model Mustang several years ago but I don't think I ever did a video on one. I'll have to put that on my to-do list to get a video of that put together.
You can air brush :)
Yes, I have several videos out where I use this and airbrush it on. One of them is when I built the Terminator robot, and another is I used it as an under coating for a candy colored paint job on a car. I also put it on a medallion and used a special orange wash to simulate gold.
Most old car trim was stainless steel ,to me the foil or tape has to much shine for me
Yeah that's what I found his most folks have been telling me that it was actually stainless steel. And I definitely agree with you the trim that the foiled provides is usually too shiny for me as well. I have owned several vintage muscle cars and when I say vintage I mean I never get a rotisserie restoration so trim was usually something that was original equipment to the car when I got it. And that trim was far from chrome it's shine. Thank you for watching
Merv thank you and what clear do you use on your cars?
There are several different ones that I use sometimes I will just use the future floor finish. On other projects I will use the testers gloss coat Locker and on other finishes I will use a high gloss that testers puts out in a small bottle I can't remember what the number is it's like 2543 or something like that. Anyway it really depends on the finish that I'm going after. If I'm trying to do some deep show car finish I may use the future. If I'm going after more of a factory type finish that I need to use polishing pads on then I would use the testers gloss coat. The other one that I just mentioned takes a while to dry and does give a very high gloss finish but usually does need to be wet sanded to be perfectly smooth so I don't use it as often. I think I may have used that one on the Ford Pinto project a couple of years ago there is a video up about that.
Thank you for watching roy! You have actually given me inspiration to put out a tutorial on using the different gloss coat finishes to produce the different machines that I like. Hopefully I can get that video put together by november.
@@maddogmerv that would be awesome. I am working on the Salvino NASCAR next Gen cars.
@@maddogmerv I had paint my window trims as well.
anodized aluminun OR stainless steel
id much rather use bare metal foil. too much margin for error with paint . and a much more smoother and durable with the foil . chrome paints do however have there uses. on the tiniest details dial faces emblems and such...just my opinion
I'll stick to BMF for now.
Thank you for watching and thank you for commenting. I'm glad that BMF works well for you. For some people like me I have just had nothing but issues with it.
Beg to differ , trim on older cars is anodized aluminum not paint!
Bare metal foil is aluminum, applies very easily, plus you can remove it and start over if necessary, hard to do that with paint! Miss leading for rookie builders 😎🇺🇸
Thanks for your comment Kevin. However, I beg to differ with you. Have you tried the Molotow liquid chrome paint in this manner? The liquid chrome paint is very easy to remove especially in the first few hours after it is applied.
Sorry my friend but nothing looks more realistic than Bare Metal Foil. I understand it's not for everybody and that is where the frustration usually comes in for people who can't work with it but nothing works better for realism....
Your volume is set too low and it's very hard to hear.
Thank you for letting me know. Yes I was having issues with that and couldn't get it edited properly as well as the video itself is flipped.
after all this time and still no mention of video being reversed - mirrored
I have several videos that were like that the camera I was using at the time was stuck in that mode and I couldn't get it figured out so I have several videos that are like that.
Why all the rambling on about it. Just say it.
Well, to be fair, I had to have more than 10 seconds of content saying, "Molotow is the way to go." Thank you for your comment, I appreciate all feedback. It's the only way I can make changes for the better.
nope bmf is better ...jk wat ever works 4 you m8
Thanks for watching and thanks for commenting Tommy. I've seen some really good results with BMF it just makes me want to take the exacto knife and run it across my wrist however. LOL I just don't have the patience I guess
Oh no Mad Dog your brush painting skills are much better than a lots of BMF jobs I've seen so you just do you you do great work much love Tommy TNT life
Get to the point already!!
Thanks for your input. I definitely could have made this a lot shorter of a video but then it would have been about a 30-second spot and at the time "shorts" wasn't an option.
Larmar, probably had a dinner date with his boyfriend, that he was late for.
🏍️ Spraying that stuff would probably cost five dollars per second. ⏲️
That is very true. This stuff isn't cheap. And it certainly isn't as durable as say Mission models Chrome paint.