Thanks for showing some diff paint jobs, at 63 I’m just getting into air brushing, I was always a rattle can guy, in fact I just used mcw lacquer yesterday in an air brush first time ever using an air brush, I’ve just been back at model building after 45 years, I have a lot to learn air brushing
Awesome to see you back on the hobby! I’m sure you will enjoy the airbrush vs the rattle cans! Lots of paint material options, feel free to reach out anytime if I can answer any questions at all!
Maaaaann, those are some slick paint jobs. Right now, here in the south, I'm fighting humidity. I run into a lot of hazing when using Duplicolor laquers.
@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds Just saw a video on someone talking about automotive laquer. Duplicolor is premixed & I'm assuming they are using a "fast" reducer. That mixed with the humidity may be giving the haze. I like to decant my laquer, but this time around, I'll mix in a "slow" reducer with it to see if it changes anything & gives it time to settle down. I like to spray thin anyway.
@@ghrobbs that is something I was thinking of doing another video on, with House of Kolors, their are 3 different reducers, fast, medium and slow, I like the medium, occasionally the fast for our general climate. Sometimes the fast reducers can bite into the plastic pretty hard.
@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds I think you are on to something. That explains a lot. Sometimes the Duplicolor primers and laquers attack the plastic as if it's too "hot"
Lots of great info Paul. Painted a 69 Grandprix Imron gold/brown when Imron first came out in the 80's I think. The painter at the Mack truck show wanted to try out the paint and I said use my car... Lol 15 years later it still shined like new when I sold it. 😁 LLAP 🖖
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds She may not have ✈ in the air but she would do 140 on the ground and I'm sure that paint made the air flow over her... 🤣 (That was on a track btw) LLAP 🖖
i know what chu mean strait laqueur over different primr= but have gotten some of the best paint jobs yours are to die for cudos and tanks fur the the tips in the archives😁🤩😅🤗
I dont have the ambition or budget to take painting to the of level science and art that you do, Paul; but I do find this very interesting. The more I learn; the easier it wil be for me to get comfortable enough with it, to try to taking paint beond the rattle can. Those are great finishes on those; I especially like the candy orange one. Is that a Pontiac Le Mans, or GTO? That Buick reminds me of a 51 Chevey deluxe an older lady that used to live behind us used to have. Great models and video, sir! Hope you guys are all having a great weekend! ☺🤙⛽🚘🏁🏆🍾
Thank you for the kind comments brother! The silver build is a the Revell 50 Olds, the orange one is the 65 Riviera, the red is the 49 Ford and the candy red is the old Chezoom curbside build. The paint on all these have their flaws, you can achieve this, airbrush and the right materials, you'll get it!
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words. I do not always use primer, or I would say I did not in the past. More so now I do, generally Tamiya primer, then hit it lightly with water and 1k-1500 prior to paint. I have shot paint right over plastic, depending on the materials being used.
@@JDsHouseofHobbies I’ve never really did the plastic spoon spray outs, I’ve used parts or stems etc I wasn’t going to use. Have a lot of friends that use the spoons though.
Interesting with the CheZoom...(Must be a HOK thing?) I've never seen a glossy candy, unless it was a tinted clear one where you add concentrate to your regular 2K clear. Ford RR with PPG was that way but RR with Axalta was traditional tinted mid-coat (transparent base coat) like every other candy I've sprayed. Same as a tri-coat pearl which is a pearl mid-coat and they need a clear over them. I would say in scale most all base coats don't need to be activated as you're not needing the extra durability and adhesion as you do on a 1:1 car that has to deal with elements, rock chips, UV. 2K is catalyzed and 1K is air dry.
Well said on all the points !, the base HOK base candy paints will not get the look of the urethane candy, which is on the Chezoom, that is simply urethane HOK Apple Red over Orion Silver. The Urethane has the hardner which will give it a slight shine compared to the base coats.
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuildsHopefully I can remember that if I ever order some! Outside of the tinted 2K the only other time was the Tamiya clears which I used on my 65 Pontiac custom and 59 El Camino which I wouldn't recommend for xustom work because of the build up they have being a clear, overall candy I think they would be fine.
@@sodakmodelcars I like to clear my urethane candies, pops rather spray the Basecoat candies. I’m leaning towards Basecoat candies the more I spray them.
Good tips. I have some mcw paint and some ammo cobra paint. Have been wondering about the proscale paint and the outlaw paint. I like the mcw, but have to keep remembering the hardener. And the same with createx.
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds I believe Matthew @modelcarvideos said something about the hardener reducing the drying/curing time a lot and making it shinier. I could be wrong,which I usually am.
@@Johnny-tt8zc Hardner will definitely reduce dry times, if it is suggested by manufacturer you’ll want to add it. If it is optional, then you can experiment with it. I’ve heard of some enamels never fully curing out, years later, still being somewhat soft. A little enamel hardner probably won’t hurt with that line
Please let me ask a question, since I’m getting back into model car building since I’m recently retired, and between my honeydew list, I wanted to ask someone that’s obviously been building models for some time. I live in the south and it’s been raining here for the last week and humidity is at least 70% right now. I don’t have a garage, basement, or dedicated room for modeling like you rich guys do, just kidding, I have to do my painting out in my shed. BTW, I use rattle cans enamel for painting. My question is, do you think if I paint outside then immediately bring the body inside that my paint jobs will turn out alright? I’ve only completed one model and the paint job was orange peeled so badly that I had to strip it down and start over. I’m not completely convinced if it was the humidity or that it was molded in red and I didn’t spray enough primer on it, but I really don’t want to have to go through stripping again. Thank you in advance for any and all help. Greatly appreciated.
Thank you for dropping by the channel here! I do all my painting in the backyard, no fancy booths or paint rooms here either. We get a lot of fog and moisture in the air out here so I have to pick and choose when I can paint. I do like to get 2-4 coats of primer down depending on the build and type of material. Different primers are heavier and lighter than others but good coverage is key. Try letting it sit for a day or so, then water sand it lightly with some 1k-1500 paper before painting. Then depending on the paint you use, you might try color sanding and polishing. If I color sand, I usually start anywhere between 1k-1500 and work down to about 6-10k depending on how much it needed. I have a video on a channel build I did here, the 37 Ford Pickup where I used Tamiya rattle cans, all came out pretty good! Happy to answer any questions I can.
@@toecutter8002 spray cans can be touchy for sure! Dupli-Color, Tamiya and Mr.Hobby work well if I’m using cans. I’ve heard Tropical Glitz is pretty nice too 🤙🏼
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice information. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for checking the video out!
Thanks for showing some diff paint jobs, at 63 I’m just getting into air brushing, I was always a rattle can guy, in fact I just used mcw lacquer yesterday in an air brush first time ever using an air brush, I’ve just been back at model building after 45 years, I have a lot to learn air brushing
Awesome to see you back on the hobby! I’m sure you will enjoy the airbrush vs the rattle cans! Lots of paint material options, feel free to reach out anytime if I can answer any questions at all!
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds thank you!
Beautiful cars
great video paul,always great to learn more!
Thank you for dropping in!
Great video paul. Thanks for sharing sir.
Thank you for checking it out! 🤙🏼
I need to save this one... thanks for sharing.
Glad you found it helpful brother!
sweet dou omg tanks for sharing 🤣😁🤩
Yes sir!! 🤙🏼
Good update Paul.
Thank you brother!
Maaaaann, those are some slick paint jobs.
Right now, here in the south, I'm fighting humidity. I run into a lot of hazing when using Duplicolor laquers.
Thank you 🙏. I can imagine lacquer would be tuff to spray out there in those conditions
@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds Just saw a video on someone talking about automotive laquer. Duplicolor is premixed & I'm assuming they are using a "fast" reducer. That mixed with the humidity may be giving the haze.
I like to decant my laquer, but this time around, I'll mix in a "slow" reducer with it to see if it changes anything & gives it time to settle down.
I like to spray thin anyway.
@@ghrobbs that is something I was thinking of doing another video on, with House of Kolors, their are 3 different reducers, fast, medium and slow, I like the medium, occasionally the fast for our general climate. Sometimes the fast reducers can bite into the plastic pretty hard.
@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds I think you are on to something. That explains a lot.
Sometimes the Duplicolor primers and laquers attack the plastic as if it's too "hot"
@@ghrobbs types of thinners and reducers can bite in hard
Lots of great info Paul. Painted a 69 Grandprix Imron gold/brown when Imron first came out in the 80's I think. The painter at the Mack truck show wanted to try out the paint and I said use my car... Lol 15 years later it still shined like new when I sold it. 😁
LLAP 🖖
Very cool! My pops sprayed a bit of that back in those days!
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds She may not have ✈ in the air but she would do 140 on the ground and I'm sure that paint made the air flow over her... 🤣 (That was on a track btw)
LLAP 🖖
Nice paint video Paul..👍
Thank you brother!!
thank you for sharing 😁those builds esp your dads were kool 🤩😘keep rockin cooter d😎
Thank you 🤙🏼
Great info Paul
Thank you brother!
i know what chu mean strait laqueur over different primr= but have gotten some of the best paint jobs yours are to die for cudos and tanks fur the the tips in the archives😁🤩😅🤗
Definitely brother!
Great tips brother that will help me with getting used to my airbrush.
Reach out any time brother! Help where I can
@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds thank you brother will do!!
Great tips Paul, really nice finishes on all those builds!
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for the video! Awesome work!
Thank you 🙏
I dont have the ambition or budget to take painting to the of level science and art that you do, Paul; but I do find this very interesting. The more I learn; the easier it wil be for me to get comfortable enough with it, to try to taking paint beond the rattle can. Those are great finishes on those; I especially like the candy orange one. Is that a Pontiac Le Mans, or GTO? That Buick reminds me of a 51 Chevey deluxe an older lady that used to live behind us used to have. Great models and video, sir! Hope you guys are all having a great weekend! ☺🤙⛽🚘🏁🏆🍾
Thank you for the kind comments brother! The silver build is a the Revell 50 Olds, the orange one is the 65 Riviera, the red is the 49 Ford and the candy red is the old Chezoom curbside build. The paint on all these have their flaws, you can achieve this, airbrush and the right materials, you'll get it!
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds You're welome! Thanks for telling me the cars yrs. And models, and all the great content, brother! ✌☺🤙
@@ToyotaGuy1971 appreciate the channel support brother, always enjoy the chats here
I've never experimented with base coats but have with primers, nice paint tips.
Thank you brother, I like Basecoats, easy to work with, cover without building up.
Cool video mate 👍
Thank you!!
also to remember to let lacquer gas out well before clearing with 2 stage clear-I use small plastic shot cups for models to measure paint
Indeed, I rarely paint with lacquer, mostly urethane or Basecoat these days 🤙🏼
Great video! Your very knowledgeable and clearly it shows through in your paintwork. Only question here is do you always prime?
Thank you, I appreciate the kind words. I do not always use primer, or I would say I did not in the past. More so now I do, generally Tamiya primer, then hit it lightly with water and 1k-1500 prior to paint. I have shot paint right over plastic, depending on the materials being used.
I'm going to do my usual practice on some plastic spoons before I spray the candy on my Desoto. Man, those models are beautiful!
Always good to do a practice shoot if you are not familiar with the materials!
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds I need to buy stock in a plastic spoon company!
@@JDsHouseofHobbies I’ve never really did the plastic spoon spray outs, I’ve used parts or stems etc I wasn’t going to use. Have a lot of friends that use the spoons though.
Very interesting video paul,always learning something new from your videos , lovely paint on those models .
Thank you!! Appreciate all the feedback and glad you enjoyed the video!
Great looking cars, definitely a California vibe to them. Subbed
Thank you!
Interesting with the CheZoom...(Must be a HOK thing?) I've never seen a glossy candy, unless it was a tinted clear one where you add concentrate to your regular 2K clear. Ford RR with PPG was that way but RR with Axalta was traditional tinted mid-coat (transparent base coat) like every other candy I've sprayed. Same as a tri-coat pearl which is a pearl mid-coat and they need a clear over them. I would say in scale most all base coats don't need to be activated as you're not needing the extra durability and adhesion as you do on a 1:1 car that has to deal with elements, rock chips, UV.
2K is catalyzed and 1K is air dry.
Well said on all the points !, the base HOK base candy paints will not get the look of the urethane candy, which is on the Chezoom, that is simply urethane HOK Apple Red over Orion Silver. The Urethane has the hardner which will give it a slight shine compared to the base coats.
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuildsHopefully I can remember that if I ever order some! Outside of the tinted 2K the only other time was the Tamiya clears which I used on my 65 Pontiac custom and 59 El Camino which I wouldn't recommend for xustom work because of the build up they have being a clear, overall candy I think they would be fine.
@@sodakmodelcars I like to clear my urethane candies, pops rather spray the Basecoat candies. I’m leaning towards Basecoat candies the more I spray them.
Sweet video. Nice info on painting.
Thank you! Cheers!
WOW! Your wife actually washes your clothes!! Man, she’s a keeper.
Haha, no, that is my daughter over doing their laundry
I appreciate your videos that are helpful like this.
Thank you Larry!
Awsome thanks for your help.
Glad to help
Good tips. I have some mcw paint and some ammo cobra paint. Have been wondering about the proscale paint and the outlaw paint.
I like the mcw, but have to keep remembering the hardener. And the same with createx.
I am going to be spraying some of the MCW Paints soon, believe people use the MR Hobby leveling thinner and hardner is optional, i believe
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds
I believe Matthew @modelcarvideos said something about the hardener reducing the drying/curing time a lot and making it shinier.
I could be wrong,which I usually am.
@@Johnny-tt8zc Hardner will definitely reduce dry times, if it is suggested by manufacturer you’ll want to add it. If it is optional, then you can experiment with it. I’ve heard of some enamels never fully curing out, years later, still being somewhat soft. A little enamel hardner probably won’t hurt with that line
Nice fifty seven chevy behind ya
Thank you 🙏
🤘🏽
Thanks for checking it out!
Please let me ask a question, since I’m getting back into model car building since I’m recently retired, and between my honeydew list, I wanted to ask someone that’s obviously been building models for some time. I live in the south and it’s been raining here for the last week and humidity is at least 70% right now. I don’t have a garage, basement, or dedicated room for modeling like you rich guys do, just kidding, I have to do my painting out in my shed. BTW, I use rattle cans enamel for painting. My question is, do you think if I paint outside then immediately bring the body inside that my paint jobs will turn out alright? I’ve only completed one model and the paint job was orange peeled so badly that I had to strip it down and start over. I’m not completely convinced if it was the humidity or that it was molded in red and I didn’t spray enough primer on it, but I really don’t want to have to go through stripping again. Thank you in advance for any and all help. Greatly appreciated.
Thank you for dropping by the channel here! I do all my painting in the backyard, no fancy booths or paint rooms here either. We get a lot of fog and moisture in the air out here so I have to pick and choose when I can paint. I do like to get 2-4 coats of primer down depending on the build and type of material. Different primers are heavier and lighter than others but good coverage is key. Try letting it sit for a day or so, then water sand it lightly with some 1k-1500 paper before painting. Then depending on the paint you use, you might try color sanding and polishing. If I color sand, I usually start anywhere between 1k-1500 and work down to about 6-10k depending on how much it needed. I have a video on a channel build I did here, the 37 Ford Pickup where I used Tamiya rattle cans, all came out pretty good! Happy to answer any questions I can.
@@LeftCoastModelCarBuilds Thanks. All help is greatly appreciated.
I never use those small spray paint cans every time I've used them they spit paint out.
@@toecutter8002 spray cans can be touchy for sure! Dupli-Color, Tamiya and Mr.Hobby work well if I’m using cans. I’ve heard Tropical Glitz is pretty nice too 🤙🏼