You do know that this video (first watched back in late 2017), drove & hounded me to one day move up from my SB 9c to a larger lathe with a tapper attachment,,,,That day came on February 6th 2021 when I found a 1941 LeBlond 17 here in TX,. Not only with a tapper attachment, but a load of tooling (@@)! Now setting in our mom & pop Hot Rod Shop, with a Big Smile on my Face
Please do not apologize for any thing!! Some folks need to try and validate themselves by nit picken. You make a living with what you do. We appreciate your time and knowledge. You are a superb machinist and teacher.
The engineering that went into those machines is mindblowing, especially when you consider it was likely done with paper, pencil, a slide ruler, and a protractor. What I find really amazing is how quiet the movement of all those big, heavy metal parts are.
Yeah, especially compared to the twig and a two by four you built for your Clausing! Hee hee, jk man...though there is a difference in design, you made yours work wonderfully. Game show, game show, game show...ding, ding, ding, ding! :D
Hee hee, I was in such a punky mood, and now I'm feeling a mixture of embarrassment and fear. Hopefully Old Tony won't take me out "fishing" and have me whacked, like his name would lead one to believe :D
Ha! Something about that made me think of Dirty Ol ... er, Grumpy Old Men II, the old gal brandishing a ladel or cast iron pan, saying "Now can I whack him???" I wouldn't worry too much about it, unless a little ninja suddenly appears with hand on shord hilt...
Hi Adam, I cut my teeth in 1956 on a big 1936 Monarch with a taper attachment just like yours. I used the attachment many times but never understood how it could move so freely while the lead screw remained stationary. Now I know the screw has to slide in a coupling somehow to allow both to be used. Thanks a ton, my 60 year old puzzle has been solved.
Having a background more in mechanics that machining, I fully understand and appreciate the Monarch more than ever. The genius of the designers of those machines was incredible.
They really did put alot into that machine, the design and engineering involved. They wanted there lathes to be the best in the world and last a lifetime.
My Springfield 280 came with a taper attachment but I've never tried to use it. I wasn't even sure if I had all the parts. After watching this video and understanding how it is supposed to work, I went and set it up and found out I do have it all and it works. Thanks Adam.
I asked a question about taper turning. You recommended looking back over your older videos, so I did, I found it, and you've explained it perfectly. Thanks again Adam.
Adam, it doesn't matter what people say about your tools. If the tool works for you then, it's perfect. The important thing is to get the job done safely and quickly. I have many tools I have made and they work for me. That's why I always say on my channel "Work smarter, not harder."
I've seen some of those comments in the past about you sanding and polishing. When the safety Nazi's come out, they get vicious. I have no idea how I survived as a kid with no covers on the electrical plugs and riding standing up next to my dad in the car. I see you have all your fingers so you must know what you're doing. May God be with your brother and I pray everything works out ok. My 15 year old grandson has Crones and it makes life challenging with the IV's and such. Thanks again for what you do for our entertainment.
Thanks for the explanation. I have a Monarch CK12. I finally found the clamp for the taper attachment to the bed. Only took 14 years. Seems like people take those off and loose them pretty regularly. I can not for the life of me figure that out. Anyway, look forward to doing some tapered parts now. So, perfect timing on these three videos. Thanks so much.
Very good video and example of machine design. I did not look forward to single point threading on the lathe until I got to work on an HLV-H which had a bit different mechanism for pulling back, but like the Monarch and other higher quality lathes made the threading process much easier. I appreciate that you get to the point where critical comments are too much. You are very careful about going over the possible consequences of techniques that you use. There are thousands of choices that must be made by a machinist and just as many factors that go along with deciding how to accomplish a task safely and efficiently. I think your judgement is excellent and while I respect the concern and opinions of others at some point there needs to be an acceptance that we are not all going to see or do things the same way.. Thanks Adam.
Excellent explanation on the taper attachment. I was keeping an eye out for one to put on my DSG but now realise the whole cross feed arrangements would need to be changed as well. Possibly saved me some money 👍 not that I’ve ever seen one for sale. Thanks Adam.
So THAT's how that works on the taper attachment, and how you can still use the crossfeed while tapering! That's an awesome piece of ingenuity and genius mechanical engineering! Cross-feed screw is anchored to the moveable bar that the taper-attachment is in control of, with as you stated, a male-female sliding shaft connection, either keyed, or more likely splined, between cross-feed screw and cross-feed handle and dial. As well built as the rest of the machine is, I'd be surprised if the sliding-shaft setup between cross-feed handle/dial and cross-feed screw isn't splined. Besides of course how this arrangement permits you to still adjust cross-slide position no matter where you are in the taper-attachment's travel, I can also see a major safety benefit as well: when turning a taper using the tapering-attachment, the cross-feed handle isn't turning. If it were turning on its own while using the tapering attachment, I'm guessing that can lead to operator confusion at times possibly and a machine crash if you accidentally engage the power cross-feed when you meant to disengage it. With the cross-feed handle not turning when using the tapering attachment, you know at a glance that the power cross-feed is off. As somebody else has said previously however on this, it would make sense if in the process of setting up the taper attachment for use, one of the setup steps by design also serves as a 'safety feature' to lock-out the power cross-feed, so the power feed for the cross-slide is disabled and cannot be engaged while the taper attachment is setup and ready to use.
thanks man! you saved me. i wasn't familiar with the taper guide and wasn't sure why it wouldn't cut the angle i set. after seeing how it's supposed to move from your video; i realized it just really needed to be taken apart and lubed up. and a couple screws on the compound needed backed off slightly.
I greatly appreciate this video. I have a 1905 lathe with a taper attachment that is missing a couple pieces. I'm fully restoring it and this video was just what I needed.
Great video. Keith Rucker has a series of videos where he restored a LeBlond lathe. He shows how the taper attachment is assembled, so it makes it really easy to understand. It isn't exactly the same because they are different machines, but the basics are similar.
Basically it is specifically designed and made for this lathe. This is not something anyone can just put together and put onto a lathe! Thanks for taking the time to show this! Edit: Looks like the 25 thou slop is in where the screw connects to the taper attachment
Those were some Smart People that Designed Machines back then. A Pencil, Some Paper, A Drafting Table, A Slide Rule, and Their Brain. No Calculator. No Computer. No CAD. No CNC. Wow, Just Amazing!
Good video. The lead screw has a keyway in the handle end which fits into a collar attached to the handle. that allows the entire screw to move under taper turning, while still allowing you to adjust the depth of cut . That big worn out nut on the end locks the slide into place when doing normal turning so the screw cannot accidentally move. Keith Rucker just did a video on assembling the cross slide and taper attachment on his Monarch for those who want to see how it all goes together.
I work in a manual machine shop with alot of old worn machines missing parts to the taper attachment, and always wondered how they worked. My dads a master and explained them, but to actually see them set up and moving makes all the difference. Shame we dont have them working, im on a job this would do wonders on speed and accuracy. Thats for the informative video!
Guess I wasn't the only one wondering how the lead screw interacted with the taper attachment, now it makes perfect sense. As always, thanks for the great explanation Adam :)
Nice writeup......I haven't run a taper attachment in over 30 years..........so it seems to have helped......that polishing tool is boss.......never seen one like it
Thanks for the inside look Adam, it was quite clear how that was possible. It's just 16 times more complicated than I could have imagined - simple, right? Obviously the guys that designed that system knew what they wanted out of a lathe long before this one was a new model, so that goes back a ways and then some. The heritage runs deep and strong in that one.
Hi Adam I have seen you use that polisher a number of times. Every time I saw it in use I thought" wow, that makes loads of sense and does a great job ". regards vic
Nice. That Monarch is a beauty. Anyone that criticizes you using the crankshaft polisher can go take a dive into molten steel. Every serious race engine shop, let alone OEM remanufacturer has one and uses them in production as well as custom engine machining. I've used them hundreds of times. A must have tool in any serious machine shop. End of rant...
Your molten steel comment took me back to Terminator 2 and the ending with the T-1000 shrieking like a stuck pig, LOL! "Come with me if you want to live"....dang, I can't believe that was 25 years ago already!
Doug Hanchard oh hi California. I hate ANY negative comments toward Adam, especially about such a unique and marvelous machine. Thanks, Adam, now maybe I can figure out my south bend taper attachment! Cschwad.
I really don't get why they get so anal about it. I mean, all it takes to protect the lathe is some wrapping paper, and you're done. I have a similar belt grinder, tho mine (through a mod) attaches to the tool post so i can power feed the grinder. Man that thing makes some sick polishing marks. :)
I'm just jealous I don't have a legit crank polisher. If you haven't polished parts then you have never needed a perfect air tight slip fit that snaps when you pull it apart. I don't own a cylindrical grinder so it has to get done some how. That aside maybe the millenials don't know how to clean up after their grinding dust. I mean they expect everything else handed to em.
Once again, and as usual a splendid tutorial.....but if I may suggest, when you have nothing better to do, a tear down and repair/update of your Monarch lathe would make for fascinating videos and I am certain that you would get many thumbs up.
Thanks for the video Adam! I've got a Clausing Colchester very similar to John Saunders and have never messed with the taper attachment because I thought I had to disconnect the cross slide like you mentioned. Watched your video, went out to the shop, and was set up to cut threads in no time.
Thank you for taking the time to explain that taper attachment Adam, it has always puzzled me how it works, my little lathe does not have that ability. BTW we all do polishing of some sort on the lathe. A quick clean up before moving on is all it takes. The type that bitch about it probably never done any machining EVER!
The monarch taper attachment works similar to the one I have on my old Pratt and Whitney model B. on mine there is a dog screw to lock the separate taper slide in the carriage. the thing I like about my taper setup over other brands is that the taper attachment hangs on its own independent machined surface on the back of the bed versus being attached to the rear top ways of the bed and doesn't ride along with the carriage when not in use.
If it's like the Colchester chipmaster, the cross slide screw is splined at the Handel end, and the other end is bolted into the taper attachment slide. This means that the screw moves as it slides down the taper attachment, taking the cross slide with it.
MattsMotorz Iḿ feeling same away about polishing on the lathe.. Throw couple old t-shirt to cover the ways and thatś that... If the camshaf from engine hav to machine out to next over size bearings. First off itś grinded and after that itś polished to size hand held emrypaper or by machine like yours adam.... It has also WAYS in it! Lathes are made to working NOT TO BABY OUT THEM!!!!!!! Ofcourse you hav to take care of them best way you can :-)
thanks for the explanation of the belt sander/polisher. I also like the taper attachment on that monarch. we've got one on our southbend. it functions fairly well but nothing to brag about.
Great share. At the beginning I thought that was an arc'ed path the taper attachment was set up for, because of the lens distortion - I thought "How neat, you can probably cut any path/shape, then." I guess that would be pretty complex to create anything but a straight taper.
Shop project alert! - make a new doohickey for your taper attachment to replace the worn out one. :) You could also put a small, rectangular magnet to replace the missing clasp (?) on the guard so it doesn't slide around like you demonstrated - just attach the magnet to the ways where the clasp was, rest the guard piece on top, and adjust the location of the magnet so the guard piece rests on it. Now affix one side with 2-part epoxy and let it set up! Keep up the good work!
thanks for all the great videos. I'm 24 from tulsa ok and i machine my ass off everyday the good old way. I realy don't know many people my age that use manual machines. everyone my age wants it to be computer drivin and pre written, but when faced with a one off problem they can't over come it. I started uploading some of my machine vids as well and hope to add many later thanks to your encouragement.
If my memory is correct, MONARCH patented their taper-turning attachment. It's generally referred to as a telescopic taper-turning attachment in order to distinguish it from the plain type.
This video is very cool and useful work Thank you Professor Adam The most beautiful thing in this video is two movements at once Yes, a lot of this video may take advantage despite the surprising at first until completed explanation. Great work really
Good little Video on the Taper attachment. I had to make a couple things for my Le Blond and then haven't had to use it. If I hadn't of made the parts I would have needed them.
Thanks Adam! Made sense once i saw that leadscrew move ;) so much quality in those machine so well thought out and designed. Again thanks for taking your time to explain - its why your a pro Cheers Troy
Abom79 @6:30 Do you use structured abrasive belts for that thing? (as very much an amateur, I built and used such a thing for polishing a toyota 7M crank, and it worked like a charm, took it down from 60.001mm to something small I dont remember now..)
Adam, that looks like a Kwik Way crankshaft polisher, depending on journal size you'd use different widths of belts. I used to help dad rebuild a lot of engines over the years and if people freak about having sanding dust on ways, they better not walk into a machine shop turning cranks or surfacing heads, blocks or flywheels, lol. I have a picture of an Offenhauser block that was rebuilt, it's in a lathe with a steady rest that is probably around 2 tons, it was used to machine the bellhousing on the block.
So the sanding dust on the ways is what people complained about? Seriously? I tried to wrap my head around why somebody would complain about that belt sander and couldn't come up with anything. I thought maybe there is some weird security thing i got no clue about. But its just dust on the ways... something that can be cleaned.
thank you, adam, for the explanation! it would be nice to see any repair on that screw and nuts if you ever decide to show it to us. thanks for the video, -toly
Best turner I've ever seen and taught me a lot of interesting things. I would recommend the szczegulną carefully watch his movies :-) Pozdrawiam z Polski
Thanks a bunch Abom, I was trying to figure out how to use the one on my monarch and for the life of me couldn't see how it was supposed to work. It's because I'm missing that locking bar. The bar was broken off but I have it, the locking piece is completely gone though so I guess I'll have to fabricate something.
Adam, Great video. Thank you. You could always try using that Frost effect paint for glass in a rattle can to cut down on the glare from the windows and still get light in the shop. I think they have a matt style with no gloss. Helps with security as well.
That is a good idea too. But then Adam would have to sit down a choose a style and color with samples. I don't see him doing that just yet. "LOL, :)" I would vote for that green used on the Monarch. I like Battleship gray color but for the floors. "Laugh" Next Episode: Interior shop design with Adam Booth :)
Taper attachment mechanics made sense, however when removed, I'm guessing there is some sort of hardware that anchors the extra slide action from moving when you don't want it to?
Thanks for sharing how it works. I purchased an old Hendey without the taper attachment. Hopefully someone has a link how the Hendey connects that slide bar to the attachment. Thanks
Good video! Regarding your old Monarch lathe,what would be the run out 1' from the chuck? I am just trying to figure out the usefulness of an older lathe I am interested in. Thanks!
Hi just watched video and it was great, came on to it after watching a similar video by "this old Tony" loved all the shots but could I just ask this one question ? You never showed you feed in and feed along at the same time. Is or was it possible to do that ie feed towards the headstock and also feed across the face ? I'm only asking as I really like the system you showed and trying to figure out the mechanism for this. I'm reminded of my Bantam feed screw's and a sliding power feed cog along a splined drive but I don't want to miss a more version. I love your channel and the work you commit to it, Mr Pete aka tublacain amongst others made me intrigued and search for your channel and you provide me with constant insight on both productivity and the most important which I hold very dear. That you cannot ever stop learning or improving. Thank you if you can respond I understand that you are very busy, but thank you for your videos they are like tublacain's a very important teaching tool. Yours thankfully Stuart Martin.
Thanks for the detailed look, Adam. I was wondering how Monarch managed the other degree of freedom on that cross slide. My little Logan lathe (which my wife blames you for) had a taper attachment most of which went missing before it came to me. It was a MUCH more limited arrangement that these machines that you grew up with.
Adam, did you notice that when you showed the cross slide backlash that the lead screw moved back and forward a little so maybe there is some slack in the mounting at the far end of the taper attachment?
Yep it is a keyed setup in the cross slide handle.......If you look closely at the 13:35-14:00 point of the video you can see the tip of the key sticking out when you are moving the cross slide back & forth. It shows right at the base of the angled slope leading down into the "nasty guts" as you called it.......kind of looks like a ski slope, and you can see the tip of the key on the shaft right at the base of the slope. The oil nipple right at the top of that slope is what feeds directly down into that key slot to keep it sliding easily. Monarch did a better job on the design of their taper attachment than ATW did on the Pacemakers in my opinion. Don't get me wrong the Pacemaker design is equally as cool, but Monarch wins on design ingenuity.
Man that Monarch is a sweet beast. Ingenious design. What about if you are doing work that requires full bed travel when not using the taper attach. Can you get the taper slide to follow the cross slide down the bed or does it need to be manually moved when you get to the end of the taper slide? (If that makes sense)
When the taper attachment is not in use you tighten the wore out bolt in the back end of the cross slide. Do you have to position the taper arm to run parallel with the bed?
You do know that this video (first watched back in late 2017), drove & hounded me to one day move up from my SB 9c to a larger lathe with a tapper attachment,,,,That day came on February 6th 2021 when I found a 1941 LeBlond 17 here in TX,. Not only with a tapper attachment, but a load of tooling (@@)! Now setting in our mom & pop Hot Rod Shop, with a Big Smile on my Face
Please do not apologize for any thing!! Some folks need to try and validate themselves by nit picken. You make a living with what you do. We appreciate your time and knowledge. You are a superb machinist and teacher.
The engineering that went into those machines is mindblowing, especially when you consider it was likely done with paper, pencil, a slide ruler, and a protractor. What I find really amazing is how quiet the movement of all those big, heavy metal parts are.
enjoyed. that's like nasa level taper attachment.
Yeah, especially compared to the twig and a two by four you built for your Clausing! Hee hee, jk man...though there is a difference in design, you made yours work wonderfully.
Game show, game show, game show...ding, ding, ding, ding! :D
twig and 2 x 4??? You know he's going to make something of that in a future video ... and I can't wait to see it!
Hee hee, I was in such a punky mood, and now I'm feeling a mixture of embarrassment and fear. Hopefully Old Tony won't take me out "fishing" and have me whacked, like his name would lead one to believe :D
Ha! Something about that made me think of Dirty Ol ... er, Grumpy Old Men II, the old gal brandishing a ladel or cast iron pan, saying "Now can I whack him???"
I wouldn't worry too much about it, unless a little ninja suddenly appears with hand on shord hilt...
It’s the kind you’d need to fix this old Tony’s tapers
You did an awesome job explaining the taper attachment setup! Thanks for sharing!
Hi Adam, I cut my teeth in 1956 on a big 1936 Monarch with a taper attachment just like yours. I used the attachment many times but never understood how it could move so freely while the lead screw remained stationary. Now I know the screw has to slide in a coupling somehow to allow both to be used. Thanks a ton, my 60 year old puzzle has been solved.
Having a background more in mechanics that machining, I fully understand and appreciate the Monarch more than ever. The genius of the designers of those machines was incredible.
They really did put alot into that machine, the design and engineering involved. They wanted there lathes to be the best in the world and last a lifetime.
Adam.. Fantastic !! You cant imagine how helpful this video is. It was driving me nuts how that whole arrangement works.
Thank you again
My Springfield 280 came with a taper attachment but I've never tried to use it. I wasn't even sure if I had all the parts. After watching this video and understanding how it is supposed to work, I went and set it up and found out I do have it all and it works. Thanks Adam.
I asked a question about taper turning.
You recommended looking back over your older videos,
so I did, I found it, and you've explained it perfectly.
Thanks again Adam.
Great!
Adam, it doesn't matter what people say about your tools. If the tool works for you then, it's perfect. The important thing is to get the job done safely and quickly. I have many tools I have made and they work for me. That's why I always say on my channel "Work smarter, not harder."
I've seen some of those comments in the past about you sanding and polishing. When the safety Nazi's come out, they get vicious. I have no idea how I survived as a kid with no covers on the electrical plugs and riding standing up next to my dad in the car. I see you have all your fingers so you must know what you're doing. May God be with your brother and I pray everything works out ok. My 15 year old grandson has Crones and it makes life challenging with the IV's and such. Thanks again for what you do for our entertainment.
Thanks for the explanation. I have a Monarch CK12. I finally found the clamp for the taper attachment to the bed. Only took 14 years. Seems like people take those off and loose them pretty regularly. I can not for the life of me figure that out. Anyway, look forward to doing some tapered parts now. So, perfect timing on these three videos. Thanks so much.
Very good video and example of machine design. I did not look forward to single point threading on the lathe until I got to work on an HLV-H which had a bit different mechanism for pulling back, but like the Monarch and other higher quality lathes made the threading process much easier. I appreciate that you get to the point where critical comments are too much. You are very careful about going over the possible consequences of techniques that you use. There are thousands of choices that must be made by a machinist and just as many factors that go along with deciding how to accomplish a task safely and efficiently. I think your judgement is excellent and while I respect the concern and opinions of others at some point there needs to be an acceptance that we are not all going to see or do things the same way.. Thanks Adam.
My dad had a saying"DO as I say NOT as I do"! Damm the safety crazies and get some work done.
I had always heard that Monarch was the Cadillac of lathes. This just reinforces it. Great ingenious designs on the mechanisms!
Excellent explanation on the taper attachment. I was keeping an eye out for one to put on my DSG but now realise the whole cross feed arrangements would need to be changed as well. Possibly saved me some money 👍 not that I’ve ever seen one for sale. Thanks Adam.
So THAT's how that works on the taper attachment, and how you can still use the crossfeed while tapering! That's an awesome piece of ingenuity and genius mechanical engineering! Cross-feed screw is anchored to the moveable bar that the taper-attachment is in control of, with as you stated, a male-female sliding shaft connection, either keyed, or more likely splined, between cross-feed screw and cross-feed handle and dial. As well built as the rest of the machine is, I'd be surprised if the sliding-shaft setup between cross-feed handle/dial and cross-feed screw isn't splined.
Besides of course how this arrangement permits you to still adjust cross-slide position no matter where you are in the taper-attachment's travel, I can also see a major safety benefit as well: when turning a taper using the tapering-attachment, the cross-feed handle isn't turning. If it were turning on its own while using the tapering attachment, I'm guessing that can lead to operator confusion at times possibly and a machine crash if you accidentally engage the power cross-feed when you meant to disengage it. With the cross-feed handle not turning when using the tapering attachment, you know at a glance that the power cross-feed is off.
As somebody else has said previously however on this, it would make sense if in the process of setting up the taper attachment for use, one of the setup steps by design also serves as a 'safety feature' to lock-out the power cross-feed, so the power feed for the cross-slide is disabled and cannot be engaged while the taper attachment is setup and ready to use.
I'm not sure how I missed this video when it came out but thanks for making and sharing, good information.
thanks man! you saved me. i wasn't familiar with the taper guide and wasn't sure why it wouldn't cut the angle i set. after seeing how it's supposed to move from your video; i realized it just really needed to be taken apart and lubed up. and a couple screws on the compound needed backed off slightly.
Such a stand up guy Adam. I just truly enjoy watching your videos. Thanks for sharing your work, work shop, and so many techniques.
I greatly appreciate this video. I have a 1905 lathe with a taper attachment that is missing a couple pieces. I'm fully restoring it and this video was just what I needed.
Great video. Keith Rucker has a series of videos where he restored a LeBlond lathe. He shows how the taper attachment is assembled, so it makes it really easy to understand. It isn't exactly the same because they are different machines, but the basics are similar.
Yeah, I've been confused about taper attachment function, never had the chance to dig into it myself, thanks once again Adam!
Thank you. Picked up a lathe with a taper attachment and haven't had time to mess with it and haven't had time to mess with it.
Basically it is specifically designed and made for this lathe. This is not something anyone can just put together and put onto a lathe!
Thanks for taking the time to show this! Edit: Looks like the 25 thou slop is in where the screw connects to the taper attachment
Those were some Smart People that Designed Machines back then.
A Pencil, Some Paper, A Drafting Table, A Slide Rule, and Their Brain.
No Calculator. No Computer. No CAD. No CNC.
Wow, Just Amazing!
Good video. The lead screw has a keyway in the handle end which fits into a collar attached to the handle. that allows the entire screw to move under taper turning, while still allowing you to adjust the depth of cut . That big worn out nut on the end locks the slide into place when doing normal turning so the screw cannot accidentally move. Keith Rucker just did a video on assembling the cross slide and taper attachment on his Monarch for those who want to see how it all goes together.
and a bit more info for those that care: patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/pdfs/020d6629d2bde6dadaef/US2299677.pdf
I'm studying for 1st year apprenticeship and I believe the taper attachment is called a Plain Taper Attachment.
Thanks for demo.
I work in a manual machine shop with alot of old worn machines missing parts to the taper attachment, and always wondered how they worked. My dads a master and explained them, but to actually see them set up and moving makes all the difference. Shame we dont have them working, im on a job this would do wonders on speed and accuracy. Thats for the informative video!
Guess I wasn't the only one wondering how the lead screw interacted with the taper attachment, now it makes perfect sense. As always, thanks for the great explanation Adam :)
Nice writeup......I haven't run a taper attachment in over 30 years..........so it seems to have helped......that polishing tool is boss.......never seen one like it
That last video on turning a taper was awesome! A highly challenging and difficult machining task executed with the precision of a Ninja!
Thank you Sir. I sure needed that. Please don’t think any detail is too small to mention.
Thanks for the inside look Adam, it was quite clear how that was possible. It's just 16 times more complicated than I could have imagined - simple, right? Obviously the guys that designed that system knew what they wanted out of a lathe long before this one was a new model, so that goes back a ways and then some. The heritage runs deep and strong in that one.
Hi Adam
I have seen you use that polisher a number of times. Every time I saw it in use I thought" wow, that makes loads of sense and does a great job ".
regards
vic
Now it makes sense. What a clever design! Thank you for taking the time to explain the mechanism.
Thanks...Reminded me of my Dad when he worked as a toolmaker in South London.
Just take a look at Keith Rucker´s current LeBlond restauration, there´s a nice video of assembling a similar taper attachment
Thanks Adam. That's very cool taper attachment. I like the belt sander too, I see you always carefully cover you ways. Thanks for sharing
I'm glad you did a video on how the taper attachment works. Mystery solved. Good job.
Thank you so much!
Nice. That Monarch is a beauty.
Anyone that criticizes you using the crankshaft polisher can go take a dive into molten steel.
Every serious race engine shop, let alone OEM remanufacturer has one and uses them in production as well as custom engine machining.
I've used them hundreds of times. A must have tool in any serious machine shop.
End of rant...
Your molten steel comment took me back to Terminator 2 and the ending with the T-1000 shrieking like a stuck pig, LOL! "Come with me if you want to live"....dang, I can't believe that was 25 years ago already!
Doug Hanchard oh hi California. I hate ANY negative comments toward Adam, especially about such a unique and marvelous machine. Thanks, Adam, now maybe I can figure out my south bend taper attachment! Cschwad.
I really don't get why they get so anal about it. I mean, all it takes to protect the lathe is some wrapping paper, and you're done. I have a similar belt grinder, tho mine (through a mod) attaches to the tool post so i can power feed the grinder. Man that thing makes some sick polishing marks. :)
I'm just jealous I don't have a legit crank polisher.
If you haven't polished parts then you have never needed a perfect air tight slip fit that snaps when you pull it apart. I don't own a cylindrical grinder so it has to get done some how.
That aside maybe the millenials don't know how to clean up after their grinding dust. I mean they expect everything else handed to em.
Thanks for all the time you put into these videos. You are a scholar and a gentleman!!
Thank you Adam. I bought a used Rockwell lathe with a taper attachment and now I think I know what is missing.
Once again, and as usual a splendid tutorial.....but if I may suggest, when you have nothing better to do, a tear down and repair/update of your Monarch lathe would make for fascinating videos and I am certain that you would get many thumbs up.
the keyway was visible in the close up shot where the female collar attaces, that's one hell of a slick setup.
Thanks for the video Adam! I've got a Clausing Colchester very similar to John Saunders and have never messed with the taper attachment because I thought I had to disconnect the cross slide like you mentioned. Watched your video, went out to the shop, and was set up to cut threads in no time.
Thank you for taking the time to explain that taper attachment Adam, it has always puzzled me how it works, my little lathe does not have that ability. BTW we all do polishing of some sort on the lathe. A quick clean up before moving on is all it takes. The type that bitch about it probably never done any machining EVER!
The monarch taper attachment works similar to the one I have on my old Pratt and Whitney model B.
on mine there is a dog screw to lock the separate taper slide in the carriage. the thing I like about my taper setup over other brands is that the taper attachment hangs on its own independent machined surface on the back of the bed versus being attached to the rear top ways of the bed and doesn't ride along with the carriage when not in use.
If it's like the Colchester chipmaster, the cross slide screw is splined at the Handel end, and the other end is bolted into the taper attachment slide. This means that the screw moves as it slides down the taper attachment, taking the cross slide with it.
I get it now! Thanks Adam! And screw those guys complaining about polishing on the lathe!
MattsMotorz Iḿ feeling same away about polishing on the lathe.. Throw couple old t-shirt to cover the ways and thatś that...
If the camshaf from engine hav to machine out to next over size bearings. First off itś grinded and after that itś polished to size hand held emrypaper or by machine like yours adam....
It has also WAYS in it!
Lathes are made to working NOT TO BABY OUT THEM!!!!!!! Ofcourse you hav to take care of them best way you can :-)
Yep, cover the ways, or once done with the polishing wipe them all down which is what I do everytime.
Amazing. Beautiful work. First time I seen how a taper was machined.
Thank you man, that was a great video! Now I'm totally understand how taper attachment works. Greetings from Hungary!
100% clear. I did not ask but was wondering too. now it makes perfect sense.
thanks for the explanation of the belt sander/polisher. I also like the taper attachment on that monarch. we've got one on our southbend. it functions fairly well but nothing to brag about.
I just got a southbend 9a with a taper attachment and this really helps me alot. Thanks.
Great share. At the beginning I thought that was an arc'ed path the taper attachment was set up for, because of the lens distortion - I thought "How neat, you can probably cut any path/shape, then." I guess that would be pretty complex to create anything but a straight taper.
Hey Adam appreciate the time you take when making your videos Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!
Aha! Thanks for turning on my light and you have a very "teachable" way of explaining everything you do. Congrats on almost 110k subscriptions.
i think a video series on refreshing the carriage of the Monarch would be a really fun watch, and maybe a good long term project.
Shop project alert! - make a new doohickey for your taper attachment to replace the worn out one. :) You could also put a small, rectangular magnet to replace the missing clasp (?) on the guard so it doesn't slide around like you demonstrated - just attach the magnet to the ways where the clasp was, rest the guard piece on top, and adjust the location of the magnet so the guard piece rests on it. Now affix one side with 2-part epoxy and let it set up! Keep up the good work!
That belt sander is definitely a crankshaft linisher, the place I used to work at had those exact ones for their large crankshaft grinding machines.
Good explanation, and I like the thumbnail, Adam!
Thanks! I thought it made for a funny thumbnail!
thanks for all the great videos. I'm 24 from tulsa ok and i machine my ass off everyday the good old way. I realy don't know many people my age that use manual machines. everyone my age wants it to be computer drivin and pre written, but when faced with a one off problem they can't over come it. I started uploading some of my machine vids as well and hope to add many later thanks to your encouragement.
Great video Adam. Thanks for clearing up those points. A Happy New Year to you and yours. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
Great explanation there Adam. I had wondered about how that worked and it was buggin me a bit. I can sleep easy now!!
Super awesome journal polisher! I use them a lot when cleaning up a crank. Super easy and simple
If my memory is correct, MONARCH patented their taper-turning attachment. It's generally referred to as a telescopic taper-turning attachment in order to distinguish it from the plain type.
Just had an idea for the use of your new aluminum handle you showed us in the last video. Use it to lock/unlock the taper attachment.
This video is very cool and useful work Thank you Professor Adam
The most beautiful thing in this video is two movements at once
Yes, a lot of this video may take advantage despite the surprising at first until completed explanation.
Great work really
Good little Video on the Taper attachment. I had to make a couple things for my Le Blond and then haven't had to use it. If I hadn't of made the parts I would have needed them.
Thanks Adam! Made sense once i saw that leadscrew move ;) so much quality in those machine so well thought out and designed.
Again thanks for taking your time to explain - its why your a pro
Cheers
Troy
Never stop showing good content because of stupid comments. Love your work man! And what such good work! Always look forward to your content.
Abom79 @6:30 Do you use structured abrasive belts for that thing? (as very much an amateur, I built and used such a thing for polishing a toyota 7M crank, and it worked like a charm, took it down from 60.001mm to something small I dont remember now..)
Adam, that looks like a Kwik Way crankshaft polisher, depending on journal size you'd use different widths of belts. I used to help dad rebuild a lot of engines over the years and if people freak about having sanding dust on ways, they better not walk into a machine shop turning cranks or surfacing heads, blocks or flywheels, lol. I have a picture of an Offenhauser block that was rebuilt, it's in a lathe with a steady rest that is probably around 2 tons, it was used to machine the bellhousing on the block.
So the sanding dust on the ways is what people complained about? Seriously?
I tried to wrap my head around why somebody would complain about that belt sander and couldn't come up with anything.
I thought maybe there is some weird security thing i got no clue about. But its just dust on the ways... something that can be cleaned.
I worked at a machine shop that specialized in large crankshafts for pumps and we used a sander just like that for polishing
thank you, adam, for the explanation!
it would be nice to see any repair on that screw and nuts if you ever decide to show it to us.
thanks for the video,
-toly
Ditto
If I ever get into the machine I will do that. I'd like to maybe one day, scrape the cross slide and gib back flat.
I enjoy watching your videos I am starting to get into lathe and mill work
Careful, you'll be hooked on Iron for life... ;)
Best turner I've ever seen and taught me a lot of interesting things.
I would recommend the szczegulną carefully watch his movies :-)
Pozdrawiam z Polski
Thanks a bunch Abom, I was trying to figure out how to use the one on my monarch and for the life of me couldn't see how it was supposed to work. It's because I'm missing that locking bar. The bar was broken off but I have it, the locking piece is completely gone though so I guess I'll have to fabricate something.
Cleared up a lot of questions for me. Thanks a ton!
Yup - she's keyed. They call it a "Telescoping" taper attachment. Great video man!
Great stuff, Adam. Very enlightening. One mystery explained!
On the shars mag base I have drilled new tighter holes 45⁰ offset and install longer screws now they don't come apart . I believe they were m2.5 pitch
Adam, Great video. Thank you. You could always try using that Frost effect paint for glass in a rattle can to cut down on the glare from the windows and still get light in the shop. I think they have a matt style with no gloss. Helps with security as well.
I was thinking some cheap blinds would do the trick. Tilt them closed when filming. Tilt them open if you want more light. Quick and easy.
That is a good idea too. But then Adam would have to sit down a choose a style and color with samples. I don't see him doing that just yet. "LOL, :)" I would vote for that green used on the Monarch. I like Battleship gray color but for the floors. "Laugh" Next Episode: Interior shop design with Adam Booth :)
Taper attachment mechanics made sense, however when removed, I'm guessing there is some sort of hardware that anchors the extra slide action from moving when you don't want it to?
Thanks for sharing how it works. I purchased an old Hendey without the taper attachment. Hopefully someone has a link how the Hendey connects that slide bar to the attachment. Thanks
Thanks for showing us how that worked. The engineer in me is smiling...
Good video! Regarding your old Monarch lathe,what would be the run out 1' from the chuck? I am just trying to figure out the usefulness of an older lathe I am interested in. Thanks!
BEST TAPER ATTACHMENT I'VE SEEN
LOL , his shop is so kool it took us half way threw the video to get to the subject lol
Guards for the taper attachment are awesome
Hi just watched video and it was great, came on to it after watching a similar video by "this old Tony" loved all the shots but could I just ask this one question ? You never showed you feed in and feed along at the same time. Is or was it possible to do that ie feed towards the headstock and also feed across the face ? I'm only asking as I really like the system you showed and trying to figure out the mechanism for this. I'm reminded of my Bantam feed screw's and a sliding power feed cog along a splined drive but I don't want to miss a more version. I love your channel and the work you commit to it, Mr Pete aka tublacain amongst others made me intrigued and search for your channel and you provide me with constant insight on both productivity and the most important which I hold very dear. That you cannot ever stop learning or improving. Thank you if you can respond I understand that you are very busy, but thank you for your videos they are like tublacain's a very important teaching tool. Yours thankfully Stuart Martin.
Thanks for the detailed look, Adam. I was wondering how Monarch managed the other degree of freedom on that cross slide. My little Logan lathe (which my wife blames you for) had a taper attachment most of which went missing before it came to me. It was a MUCH more limited arrangement that these machines that you grew up with.
Adam, did you notice that when you showed the cross slide backlash that the lead screw moved back and forward a little so maybe there is some slack in the mounting at the far end of the taper attachment?
Yep it is a keyed setup in the cross slide handle.......If you look closely at the 13:35-14:00 point of the video you can see the tip of the key sticking out when you are moving the cross slide back & forth. It shows right at the base of the angled slope leading down into the "nasty guts" as you called it.......kind of looks like a ski slope, and you can see the tip of the key on the shaft right at the base of the slope. The oil nipple right at the top of that slope is what feeds directly down into that key slot to keep it sliding easily. Monarch did a better job on the design of their taper attachment than ATW did on the Pacemakers in my opinion. Don't get me wrong the Pacemaker design is equally as cool, but Monarch wins on design ingenuity.
Man that Monarch is a sweet beast. Ingenious design. What about if you are doing work that requires full bed travel when not using the taper attach. Can you get the taper slide to follow the cross slide down the bed or does it need to be manually moved when you get to the end of the taper slide? (If that makes sense)
When the taper attachment is not in use you tighten the wore out bolt in the back end of the cross slide. Do you have to position the taper arm to run parallel with the bed?
gracias,nadie me había dicho como trabajar la conicidad entiendo poco inglés pero te entendí un 80%,gracias
Always interesting to watch your videos. Keep it up!
You have a way of teaching with out over thinking it thanks for sharing.