Are you able to show the process of jacking the car, i know it's something i should know or be relatively simple, but I want to make sure i do everything the right way. Appreciate it
Yes, I plan on doing this when I do my rotor replacement video. I’ll show how to lift the car with a pinch weld adapter and where to place jack stands without lift pads
@TheMonSSter25 no doubt. I have a set of ramps, but we were doing a full track prep on the car and a few other things that required the entire car be up in the air.
I typically follow the track use change guide, which is: Engine Oil: 4 Hours of Track Use Transmission Fluid: 15 Hours of Track Use Rear Differential Oil: 24 Hours of Track Use Brake Fluid: Before Track Event or 1 Mo. Old
The most important aspect of this oil change was neglected. If one needs a video on where the pan plug and filter are they should take their car somewhere. Prop for mentioning factory PF64. What oil was used and why. What viscosity and Dexos rating. My manual states 0w-40 Dexos2 or 5w-30 Dexos1. I don't track so I'm cleared to use the 5w-30 D1, however, would like to consider 5w-40 D2. Nice cars and tutorial but oil type is critical.
Thanks! You may be interested in this video, where I cover oil types: The Great LT1 & LT4 Oil Confusion // When to Use Which Oil & Filter // Breaking It All Down ua-cam.com/video/1IkFYjPDrtY/v-deo.html
I have learned that 10 QT is not enough to make it to at least the halfway point of the stick marker! I do let the oil drain for about 30 min to make sure is all out! I owen a 2019 ZL1 1LE
That is not normal for the LT4. Even though it is technically in the safe range, it should be at least to the halfway point of the dipstick safe range.
@FollowMyLine17 I make sure that I stop at 10 QT then run the engine for about 2 to 4 mins then check the stick and it doesn't have a sign of getting to the first mark on the dipstick. Smh
@@Papito24 sounds like you aren’t checking the oil level properly. Engine needs to be cold. To get an accurate reading, park the vehicle on level ground. Check the engine oil level after the engine has been off for at least two hours. Accuracy improves when checking a cold engine prior to starting. Remove the dipstick and check the level. If unable to wait two hours, the engine must be off for at least 15 minutes if the engine is warm, or at least 30 minutes if the engine is not warm.
@FollowMyLine17 Well about this! I am so OCD that I will do my oil change first thing g in the am when the vehicle has not run through at least 12 hrs! Also I do it in level grounds! I would love someone to prove me wrong but why do I need the hole 12 QTs?
You should absolutely not need 12 quarts. The GM Small block team doesn’t even recommend overfilling these engines for track use. Something isn’t right.
Great question! You can reuse the one you have, however I strongly suggest the magnetic one I have listed in the links in the description. It’ll pick up small metal shavings and is worth it for a few bucks. amzn.to/3KKkElo
Valvoline and Pennzoil do not make anything that is Dexos 2 or Dexos R compliant, not in a 0W-40 anyway. Castrol and Havoline make a 5W-40 that are Dexos 2 compliant though.
What you need is a long 90° or 45° angle pick tool. The tab that locked is going to be at the bottom towards the ground. Just need to lift that tab up and twist it back to the left, then break that tab off permanently. You can still drive the car in the meantime, just put the oil cap on the angle neck.
Any info on the eurospec oil vs supercar? Would be nice so save some pennies but it seems like supercar is the go to. Planning on doing an autox season and dd with my ss 1le
The older Euro formula had much higher levels of calcium and wasn’t great for direct injection engines (LT1/LT4 are DI) but since the Supercar formulas have been released, Mobil 1 changed the formulation on the Euro ESP to meet Dexos 2, so it’ll work. I would personally stick to the Supercar formula, but that is just my personal opinion.
Hello, I have a 5° slant in my parking spot from right to left. Is it ok to jack the car with that angle or the jack stand will move or not get be balanced? Or what are some tips to doing it on a side slope?
A 5° slope shouldn’t be a big issue. In fact, the 5° slant can aid the oil getting out if you position the passenger side on the lower side. You can also use ramps if it’s just for the oil change, which can be more stable.
@@FollowMyLine17 thanks. Oh should I jack up the high side first? I have jack stands I’ll throw my tires under it then too. Need to rotate them anyways.
@@VioletTheCamaro you can do either side first, but as always, use caution. The tires/wheels under the car is typically where I store them too, and acts as an extra buffer. Replacing a wheel and tire is far cheaper than any damage the car might take, or worse, any injury you may incur.
Amazon’s fit guide is terribly inaccurate. There was a redesign on the angled filler neck at some point that included a locking tab which forces it to lock into place facing the firewall. Just break the tab off and you’ll be fine. If it DOES get locked in place, just use a pick tool to pry it up and remove it.
@@VioletTheCamaro you’re welcome! I’m originally from the Motor City but been here in MN for over 5 years now. Feel free to check out the channel and ask any questions you may have.
Hi! All of the links are in the description, but here they are for you: GM Angled Oil Fill Adapter: amzn.to/3zKJ7Az **This adapter has a revision. It has a tab that needs to be removed before using, otherwise it can lock into the valve cover. If that happens, you can remove it by using a pick tool to lift the tab.** Motivx Tools Engine Oil Funnel for Most GM Vehicles: amzn.to/3zRdLIw Dorman Magnetic Oil Drain Plug - M12-1.75, Head Size 15mm: amzn.to/3KKkElo
Interesting thing I emailed amsoil and asked them if their signature series motor oil 0w40 meets the specifications of the DexosR 0w40 motor oil and they emailed me back and said yes their oil does meet their specifications. I find it's interesting because I've been thinking about using either this mobile DexosR are the amsoil signature series. I really like amsoil motor oil and trust me I'm not one of those guys that changes it out every 25,000 mi I do it every 5 to 7500 miles
Yes, their oil does. I don’t really buy into the Amsoil hype, to be honest. Plus, with a 10 quart pan, Amsoil would be exponentially more expensive considering you can get 10 qts. of the Supercar oil for about $110.
Oh yeah that's true I'll just go with mobile I mean it's a sure bet and I'm not going to be racing in an attract all the time if you know what I mean but liking your videos man keep it up!
Hi! Great question. The factory recommended fill is 0W-40 but for added protection on track I use the Dexos R 5W-50 introduced with the C8 Z06. I give a full explanation in this video here: The Great LT1 & LT4 Oil Confusion // When to Use Which Oil & Filter // Breaking It All Down ua-cam.com/video/1IkFYjPDrtY/v-deo.html
@@FollowMyLine17 thanks for the reply, it is what I figured. Just wanted to hear it from you. It show you really know what you are talking about. Great videos. Thanks again.
You should probably mention not to lock that angled oil filler tube into place… just push it in and leave it pointed straight up. If you do happen to turn it and it locks into place (like I did... whoopsie!)… Use a screwdriver to push the tab from the inside so that you can turn it back and remove it. I was so frustrated with it that I used a screwdriver to break that tab off so that it never locks in again 😂
I do mention it in the description, and I have a card that pops up in the upper right corner that tells you to break the tab. A long pick tool is what I recommend using if it gets locked. Glad you were able to remove it!
@@FollowMyLine17 Oh dang, I missed that! Sorry. I was able to use a long flat blade screwdriver and it came right off. The tab was gone 2 seconds later 😂 BTW, Steelankles says "Hi!". He lives 15 minutes from me 🙂
@@FollowMyLine17 Heck ya man! I know it's a long drive, but there are some AMAZING tracks down here.. Road Atlanta and VIR are the 2 best in this area.
@srhatfield I’ve been to Road Atlanta. One of my favorite tracks. My goal is Road Atlanta in 2025 and COTA in 2026, for my “long-distance” tracks. Would like to get back to NCM again, too.
They would both work fine, 0w-40 was developed after the LT1 already came out which is why some oil caps for LT1 motors will say either 5w-30 or 0w-40. Dexos2 or DexosR is what i would get. Mobil 1 0W-40 SUPERCAR is the new name for the ESP formula, that is what i would recommend, they changed the name and bottle color from green to orange when the C8 came out.
Yeah ah if your tracking those engines with those temps do yourselves a favor use Amsoil Dominator oil it holds up better viscosity wise and had a better film and shear strength because unlike the dexos spec Its a group 3 ground petroleum where Amsoil is a true Synthetic it doesn't come from the ground it's base stocks are chemically manufactured group 4 polyaolfins and group 5 Esters base stocks. They hold up better and last up to 2 to 6 times longer. What people misunderstand is Dexos is a MINIMUM SPEC. There is much better out there.
You bring up some good points, but the Supercar oil doesn’t meet the “minimum” and has some amazing levels of additives and zinc for the price. I’d love to see the PPM data on the Amsoil Phosphorus and Zinc levels, if you can point me that way.
@@FollowMyLine17 it's called oil analysis and look up how it's made Banks did a video series. It was common to blow rear ends out a pikes peak on a run. Until a racer went with Amsoil gear oil and was able to go through practicing qualifying and the race with out destroying his rear end. Racers in nascar sponsored by shell Quaker State Valvoline switching the oil out in there sponsors container for Amsoil instead because engines lasted longer. Then my experiences with 100's of thousands of miles on original powertrains no rebuild or replacement needed up to 600k and 700k. Witness to other peoples vehicles doing the same. The info is out there the question are you willing to seek it out because if you are you will justify and understand its price point and realize any one making anything close to Amsoil quality and type has a price point just as high or more. Amsoil was the first API certified 100% Synthetic oil I think it was 1971 and has lead the game since. Don't listen to me inform and educate yourself.
@@Jon-O. awfully defensive, considering I said you brought up some good points. I was simply asking if there was a specific area on Amsoil’s site with that data, for example. I am familiar with oil analysis, and the 5W-50 Supercar oil was sent out to SPEEDiagnostix and analyzed by Lake Speed Jr. with raving reviews. I couldn’t find the levels of phosphorus or zinc for Amsoil on any of their data sheets, so I was hoping you could point me to the data. I’d love to compare and “do the research” myself.
Great tip on the angled oil adapter. Wish I had found your channel a year ago!
Thanks! Well, I’m glad you found it now.
Can you do a proper jack stand (frame) placement front and rear on the gen 6 camaro ,other then the pinch welds video ?
I absolutely could! I will add it to my list.
Are you able to show the process of jacking the car, i know it's something i should know or be relatively simple, but I want to make sure i do everything the right way.
Appreciate it
Yes, I plan on doing this when I do my rotor replacement video. I’ll show how to lift the car with a pinch weld adapter and where to place jack stands without lift pads
@@FollowMyLine17 I appreciate you 🙏
Its a whole lot less work, and imo a little safer to get a cheap set of Ramps for an oil change. I have to change 6 cars, lol.
@TheMonSSter25 no doubt. I have a set of ramps, but we were doing a full track prep on the car and a few other things that required the entire car be up in the air.
Excellent vids, well filmed and informative 👍🏼
Thank you!
At what level do you like to change your oil level based on the digital sensor on the dash? 10-30% or that’s too low? Not including track days.
I typically follow the track use change guide, which is:
Engine Oil: 4 Hours of Track Use
Transmission Fluid: 15 Hours of Track Use
Rear Differential Oil: 24 Hours of Track Use
Brake Fluid: Before Track Event or 1 Mo. Old
The most important aspect of this oil change was neglected. If one needs a video on where the pan plug and filter are they should take their car somewhere. Prop for mentioning factory PF64. What oil was used and why. What viscosity and Dexos rating. My manual states 0w-40 Dexos2 or 5w-30 Dexos1. I don't track so I'm cleared to use the 5w-30 D1, however, would like to consider 5w-40 D2. Nice cars and tutorial but oil type is critical.
Thanks! You may be interested in this video, where I cover oil types:
The Great LT1 & LT4 Oil Confusion // When to Use Which Oil & Filter // Breaking It All Down
ua-cam.com/video/1IkFYjPDrtY/v-deo.html
I have learned that 10 QT is not enough to make it to at least the halfway point of the stick marker! I do let the oil drain for about 30 min to make sure is all out! I owen a 2019 ZL1 1LE
That is not normal for the LT4. Even though it is technically in the safe range, it should be at least to the halfway point of the dipstick safe range.
@FollowMyLine17 I make sure that I stop at 10 QT then run the engine for about 2 to 4 mins then check the stick and it doesn't have a sign of getting to the first mark on the dipstick. Smh
@@Papito24 sounds like you aren’t checking the oil level properly. Engine needs to be cold.
To get an accurate reading, park the vehicle on level ground. Check the engine oil level after the engine has been off for at least two hours. Accuracy improves when checking a cold engine prior to starting. Remove the dipstick and check the level. If unable to wait two hours, the engine must be off for at least 15 minutes if the engine is warm, or at least 30 minutes if the engine is not warm.
@FollowMyLine17 Well about this! I am so OCD that I will do my oil change first thing g in the am when the vehicle has not run through at least 12 hrs! Also I do it in level grounds! I would love someone to prove me wrong but why do I need the hole 12 QTs?
You should absolutely not need 12 quarts. The GM Small block team doesn’t even recommend overfilling these engines for track use. Something isn’t right.
quick question, do you need a new oil drain plug when you do your oil change? or can i use the one already on the car?
Great question! You can reuse the one you have, however I strongly suggest the magnetic one I have listed in the links in the description. It’ll pick up small metal shavings and is worth it for a few bucks.
amzn.to/3KKkElo
Does Valvoline or penzoil make a suitable product for the ZL1 ?
Valvoline and Pennzoil do not make anything that is Dexos 2 or Dexos R compliant, not in a 0W-40 anyway. Castrol and Havoline make a 5W-40 that are Dexos 2 compliant though.
@@FollowMyLine17 was looking. For something better
Great video. Gonna save…. Does the oil you put in the filter count as part of the ten quarts?
Yes, it does.
@@FollowMyLine17awesome. Good to know. Thank you for the info and for replying. Have a great day!!!!!!
The first adapter got lock how in the hell do I removed now. If you can show in a video or recommend me one
What you need is a long 90° or 45° angle pick tool. The tab that locked is going to be at the bottom towards the ground. Just need to lift that tab up and twist it back to the left, then break that tab off permanently. You can still drive the car in the meantime, just put the oil cap on the angle neck.
Any info on the eurospec oil vs supercar? Would be nice so save some pennies but it seems like supercar is the go to. Planning on doing an autox season and dd with my ss
1le
The older Euro formula had much higher levels of calcium and wasn’t great for direct injection engines (LT1/LT4 are DI) but since the Supercar formulas have been released, Mobil 1 changed the formulation on the Euro ESP to meet Dexos 2, so it’ll work. I would personally stick to the Supercar formula, but that is just my personal opinion.
@@FollowMyLine17 thanks! I ended up just going for the supercar just for a peace of mind.
Hello, I have a 5° slant in my parking spot from right to left. Is it ok to jack the car with that angle or the jack stand will move or not get be balanced? Or what are some tips to doing it on a side slope?
A 5° slope shouldn’t be a big issue. In fact, the 5° slant can aid the oil getting out if you position the passenger side on the lower side. You can also use ramps if it’s just for the oil change, which can be more stable.
@@FollowMyLine17 thanks. Oh should I jack up the high side first? I have jack stands I’ll throw my tires under it then too. Need to rotate them anyways.
@@VioletTheCamaro you can do either side first, but as always, use caution. The tires/wheels under the car is typically where I store them too, and acts as an extra buffer. Replacing a wheel and tire is far cheaper than any damage the car might take, or worse, any injury you may incur.
Is there a reason why you using 5w-50 instead of 0-w40
Yes, it’s a better oil for track use than 0W-40, and the oil pump can handle the 50 weight oil. That is the most basic way I can break it down.
For the filler neck (#12609623 Oil Filler Tube) does this part fit or needs a mod? Amazon says it doesn't fit the LT4. Which I see yours does.
Amazon’s fit guide is terribly inaccurate. There was a redesign on the angled filler neck at some point that included a locking tab which forces it to lock into place facing the firewall. Just break the tab off and you’ll be fine. If it DOES get locked in place, just use a pick tool to pry it up and remove it.
The oil fill threads are different for the LT1 and LT4 motors? The angled oil fill says doesn’t fit my SS. Is this true?
They are not different. I’ve used the same angled adapter on both the LT4 ZL1 and my SS 1LE features in my videos.
Amazon’s “fit guide” is awful, btw. Usually not accurate when it says it won’t fit your vehicle.
@@FollowMyLine17 thanks man. That’s what I thought. I’m super new. Plus was raised in MPLS 👍
@@VioletTheCamaro you’re welcome! I’m originally from the Motor City but been here in MN for over 5 years now. Feel free to check out the channel and ask any questions you may have.
Are those rubber drain plug washers required? Never had a car use anything but a metal drain plug crush washer. Interesting.
Yes, they are required.
Do you replace those every oil change?
@@wadewilson5681 no, I replace them maybe once every 4 or 5 oil changes. Not a high-wear item.
I’m about to do my break in oil change tomorrow if it doesn’t have one from the factory should I put one on it?
@@wadewilson5681 there will be one on the factory plug, you should have no issues.
Great video. The link to the oil pan isn’t valid anymore.
Thank you, and thanks for the heads up. Here is the same oil container made by Hyper Tough:
amzn.to/3sNGOgt
I use an extraction pump first. Eight plus quarts is mess to deal with.
That’s a really good tip!
Where can i get the oil plug adapter and that funnel? Do you have the gm PN#?
Hi! All of the links are in the description, but here they are for you:
GM Angled Oil Fill Adapter:
amzn.to/3zKJ7Az
**This adapter has a revision. It has a tab that needs to be removed before using, otherwise it can lock into the valve cover. If that happens, you can remove it by using a pick tool to lift the tab.**
Motivx Tools Engine Oil Funnel for Most GM
Vehicles:
amzn.to/3zRdLIw
Dorman Magnetic Oil Drain Plug - M12-1.75, Head
Size 15mm:
amzn.to/3KKkElo
@@FollowMyLine17 thsnk you I must have missed it in the description.
Interesting thing I emailed amsoil and asked them if their signature series motor oil 0w40 meets the specifications of the DexosR 0w40 motor oil and they emailed me back and said yes their oil does meet their specifications. I find it's interesting because I've been thinking about using either this mobile DexosR are the amsoil signature series. I really like amsoil motor oil and trust me I'm not one of those guys that changes it out every 25,000 mi I do it every 5 to 7500 miles
Yes, their oil does. I don’t really buy into the Amsoil hype, to be honest. Plus, with a 10 quart pan, Amsoil would be exponentially more expensive considering you can get 10 qts. of the Supercar oil for about $110.
Oh yeah that's true I'll just go with mobile I mean it's a sure bet and I'm not going to be racing in an attract all the time if you know what I mean but liking your videos man keep it up!
@Jeff-wm3qn thank you! I appreciate that very much!
1 comment, my 2023 service manual recommends Mobil 1 Full synth 0w40 DexosR. Is there a reason you use 5w50?
Hi! Great question. The factory recommended fill is 0W-40 but for added protection on track I use the Dexos R 5W-50 introduced with the C8 Z06. I give a full explanation in this video here:
The Great LT1 & LT4 Oil Confusion // When to Use Which Oil & Filter // Breaking It All Down
ua-cam.com/video/1IkFYjPDrtY/v-deo.html
@@FollowMyLine17 thanks for the reply, it is what I figured. Just wanted to hear it from you. It show you really know what you are talking about. Great videos. Thanks again.
Thank you! I appreciate that very much.
What are your thoughts on using Royal Purple?
Ive used royal purple before for other fluids, but not oil. I know a lot of development went into the Supercar oil so I stick to that.
Amsoil is way better!
You should probably mention not to lock that angled oil filler tube into place… just push it in and leave it pointed straight up. If you do happen to turn it and it locks into place (like I did... whoopsie!)… Use a screwdriver to push the tab from the inside so that you can turn it back and remove it. I was so frustrated with it that I used a screwdriver to break that tab off so that it never locks in again 😂
I do mention it in the description, and I have a card that pops up in the upper right corner that tells you to break the tab. A long pick tool is what I recommend using if it gets locked. Glad you were able to remove it!
@@FollowMyLine17 Oh dang, I missed that! Sorry. I was able to use a long flat blade screwdriver and it came right off. The tab was gone 2 seconds later 😂
BTW, Steelankles says "Hi!". He lives 15 minutes from me 🙂
@srhatfield tell @steelankles I said hello! Great guy! I need to get down to your neck. of the woods for some track days.
@@FollowMyLine17 Heck ya man! I know it's a long drive, but there are some AMAZING tracks down here.. Road Atlanta and VIR are the 2 best in this area.
@srhatfield I’ve been to Road Atlanta. One of my favorite tracks. My goal is Road Atlanta in 2025 and COTA in 2026, for my “long-distance” tracks. Would like to get back to NCM again, too.
What are you using 5w 50?
Yes, 5W-50. Did you mean to ask why?
so can I use the 0w-40 supercar ? Or why did u use the 0w-50
All of this is covered in the video
Double check your chapters. Something is funky.
Thanks! I’ll get it fixed this week. I appreciate that.
I have an lt1 what oil do I use ? 5w-30 or 0w-40 and which one dexos1 dexos 2 or dexosR
They would both work fine, 0w-40 was developed after the LT1 already came out which is why some oil caps for LT1 motors will say either 5w-30 or 0w-40. Dexos2 or DexosR is what i would get. Mobil 1 0W-40 SUPERCAR is the new name for the ESP formula, that is what i would recommend, they changed the name and bottle color from green to orange when the C8 came out.
As GhostKiller mentioned, they both work fine but I would use 0W-40.
Forget mobil 1! Go with AMSOIL!
Not a big fan of Amsoil and the pyramid scheme-type marketing. I’ll stick to Mobil 1.
@@FollowMyLine17 bro what 😭 what period scheme marketing? If their oils known for being good it’s good
Yeah ah if your tracking those engines with those temps do yourselves a favor use Amsoil Dominator oil it holds up better viscosity wise and had a better film and shear strength because unlike the dexos spec Its a group 3 ground petroleum where Amsoil is a true Synthetic it doesn't come from the ground it's base stocks are chemically manufactured group 4 polyaolfins and group 5 Esters base stocks. They hold up better and last up to 2 to 6 times longer. What people misunderstand is Dexos is a MINIMUM SPEC. There is much better out there.
You bring up some good points, but the Supercar oil doesn’t meet the “minimum” and has some amazing levels of additives and zinc for the price. I’d love to see the PPM data on the Amsoil Phosphorus and Zinc levels, if you can point me that way.
@@FollowMyLine17 it's called oil analysis and look up how it's made Banks did a video series. It was common to blow rear ends out a pikes peak on a run. Until a racer went with Amsoil gear oil and was able to go through practicing qualifying and the race with out destroying his rear end. Racers in nascar sponsored by shell Quaker State Valvoline switching the oil out in there sponsors container for Amsoil instead because engines lasted longer. Then my experiences with 100's of thousands of miles on original powertrains no rebuild or replacement needed up to 600k and 700k. Witness to other peoples vehicles doing the same. The info is out there the question are you willing to seek it out because if you are you will justify and understand its price point and realize any one making anything close to Amsoil quality and type has a price point just as high or more. Amsoil was the first API certified 100% Synthetic oil I think it was 1971 and has lead the game since. Don't listen to me inform and educate yourself.
@@Jon-O. awfully defensive, considering I said you brought up some good points. I was simply asking if there was a specific area on Amsoil’s site with that data, for example. I am familiar with oil analysis, and the 5W-50 Supercar oil was sent out to SPEEDiagnostix and analyzed by Lake Speed Jr. with raving reviews. I couldn’t find the levels of phosphorus or zinc for Amsoil on any of their data sheets, so I was hoping you could point me to the data. I’d love to compare and “do the research” myself.