The B Pillars Are A ROTTEN Mess - The Schroll 32 Ford Coupe
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- Опубліковано 19 вер 2024
- Since the Schroll coupe is channeled so hard, the mounting locations are about 8" higher then they would be stock. To create a nice solid mounting location Matt is going to work on removing the old wood from the B pillars and replacing them with steel. This will help strengthen the car and give us a a perfect area to create a mounting tab.
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- Tools Used -
- Eastwood 4.5" Angle Grinder - www.eastwood.c...
- Eastwood Elite MP250i Multi Process Welder - www.eastwood.c...
- Eastwood Panoramic View True Color Helmet - www.eastwood.c...
- Music Used -
- Wasted - Ramin - Epidemic Music Library
- Nemesis In Franklin Park - DJ Williams - UA-cam Music Library
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I think about the factory workers all the time as I work on my cars, too. It's part of the "car zen" space that I love about car restoration.
I'm restoring a '35 and '37 Studebaker and every time I work on either one, I always am thinking about the guys who actually put these things together. Kinda humbling. Great work Matt.
Thank you for making this video. I have 1931 Chevy 3 window that needs the same thing done. This was helpful
Agreed. We have a 32 Chevrolet coupe we also have to do the same thing to it. 👍
Henry would be proud of you Matt!
Until you’ve replaced all the wood in one of these old coupe bodies you can’t appreciate how much time it takes. Nice repair!
Been there done that, more times then can count.
@@dieseldabz7104 Wood? Yeah, but attach with nails? It's very obvious that you need that boxed in internal structure!
I use to rebuild/restore stock model A's with my brother.
He use to do all the fabricating and restoring of the wood in the cars.
He used oak as his choice of wood to use.
Thanks, I have a 34 Pontiac I have to do. Great video.
Hey Matt
Good to see the coupe come in and get some work going on it.
Putting metal tube in where there was wood can be tricky, you are hgandling it well.
I had no doubt you could handle the job.
It is interesting to see the quality of work done back in the day compaired to what you are able to do now.
It is a pleasure to watch you working and building nice hot rods that will last for many many years.
Be Safe, Well and Warm
Doin it up right..gonna have a nice solid cab when you're done.
Many, many years ago we would just replace the wood if necessary. It seemed the easier way to go. Nowadays of course there are suppliers that provide entire wood kits for many makes and models. But, yes, steel is best for the car you're rebuilding.
Matt, as an older woodworker who considers your metal fab skills extremely impressive, I thought it amusing that for you, the hardest part was removing old wooden B pillars. The way you modified the 1"X 2" channel to fit at the bottom is something I could easily replicate with wood, but metal? Check back in a week.
Hey Matt Great job. Can't wait to see the body attached to the frame.
Even at the power levels you plan to run this car will be much more solid, and safe than it was as a race car. great work Matt. I really enjoy watching you work.
I've known about the wood inside these bodies for decades. I've also seen, from the outside, the metalworking involved in chopped tops. I never put 2 and 2 together until watching this video. What happens to the wood on chopped tops?
Perseverance pays off. Looks nice and solid.
It's fun Friday Morning
Matt that b pillar looks great!
I did something similar on my 29 Closed Cab Pickup. The difference in my case is I "traced" the wood with 3/4" square tubing, pie cutting like you did to make the tubing match the curvature of the wood. I kept all the top wood because I like the way it looks and intend to leave it exposed for that reason. On those pickups, the top is what connects the "A" and "B" pillars. So, while I left the wood in place, it's no longer "structural" and only provides mounting for the door hardware and any upholstery I will use. The pillars and windshield areas are now all connected via steel.
I was waiting for the welding to "accent" those curves. ;o)
The best way to get those timber sections out is to take the thin hardened steel blade out of a 4" wood hand plane. The steel blade will work as a thin cold chisel basically. Cut the small nails with the steel blade like you would use a chisel, and slide the timber out. It works well.
Stronger and stiffer than it was originally. Awesome! I can't believe that metal box tubing fit right in that space where the wood was. That was crazy.
Another very tedious job completed; well done! This is what made the 30s Chevy bodies such a challenge
to restore! My '37 Chevy coupe had 3x the wood structure that my '36 Ford cpe. has.....
Worked on several of these ol gems and done more metal fab, welding and even made panels that were no longer available for purchase on a '26 Model T Roadster Pickup. A customer of ours and his family own probably 30+ of these old Model T's, Model A's and we've done 5-6 complete restorations here.
Thank you for the update on the 32 Schroll coupe ! Take care , stay safe and healthy with whatever you guys maybe doing next ! Doing well here in Kansas .
Matt you make everything look easy, great video. Thanks for sharing. Kevin
It’s Friday morning, time for some, kerfs and coffee.
I did the same thing to a Model A I had. Man it was a nightmare. Repaired 1 thing changed 3 things down the line. Ron
looking forward to seeing this build come together yet retain the original 'look'
yes the wood is place in wet... also the wood expands and contacts over the year out of its original shape... making it harder to take out. I have to do this on the 31 chevy that I had for ever... dreading it.
I'm thing that drying out the wood would make it easier to get off. Wet is WAY backwards. Heat gun? Infa-red heater?
Hey Matt, really like your subframe idea, when we start on our 33-34 project we will do the same, my only question is when you separated the body & chassis I assume you made sure the body was square...doors open & close...
This is a GREAT video! Would love to see alot more of replacing original wood with steel in a coupe. We have our first 32 Chevrolet coupe we'll be replacing wood with steel. Just looking for ideas on the process. Keep them coming. Thanks for keeping it real. 😎👍
I can’t stop staring at the Delorean 32 roadster
I knew wood was used a lot in early car construction. I did not realize how it was specifically used in these particular cars. Replacing with steel is a good choice for your application.
I wouldn't have thought to use rectangular tube for the B pillar but it looks like a great solution! I replaced the wood in my '31 roadster and it wasn't easy.
Amazing job guys, great save!!
Great job Matt
Hey Matt great video of the B-Pilar replacement, will use this video for help when I need to replace my 35 Ford B-Pilars
Rotten job, but somebody had to do it! You'll bek glad for the extra strength and rigidity, Matt!
nice job matt
hi nice work the 32 wil look grate
Very good how-to Matt. I have a 36 Chevy low cab pickup. GMs are full of wood. Will have to do the same thing.
Great tip and nice job 👍
Imagine if you could sneak back in time and show the car folks this video of how you fixed that wood area- they would think it was pure science fantasy, or magic! The face protection, the incredibly bright welding.
With that metal replacing the wood, you've made an impromptu roll bar....
An elegant solution to repairing rotting wood!
Replace with new
Very well done. I am impressed.
Oh sweet ,good timing I am just about to t do the b pillars
Really nice work. Really looks solid.
Nice job 👍👍👍
Kind of crazy the care a factory worker put into these
AMAZING GOOD JOB
Nice job Matt, definitely the best way to go.
👍👍👍🇬🇧
Should make that old body much stronger,much more then wood!
Great Job Matt!!!
When you notch a tube like that take the piece you cut out and flip it around and weld it right back into the tube. You will need to make end plugs also to fully close it in. I am sure you can picture this. This maintains the integrity of the 'skin' allowing the tube to flex over it's length instead of the abrupt rupture creating a break point. Also the very ends of the tube should be boxed in with an 1/8" weep hole in the bottom. What do you think?
Art
How do you intend to attach upholstery and windlace without wood to tack to?
Let me throw a low-buck bearclaw latch conversion out there. Use the door mechanism from a 95-back Chevy G-van. I have one out I can measure, they might be too wide (side to side) for an early Ford. But they're cheap, I bought a spare in a you-pull yard for under $10. The inside uses a handle the same as the Ford does. Size isn't too bad. The only rough part is they're made to work with a push button outside handle, but maybe some kind of cam on the door handle so when you turn it it pushes the tab in would do the job.
The post on the van unscrews, you can either saw out the B-post for the guts or make your own.
And last if you want power locks they're an easy add on with more factory parts.
They'd work in any 40s-50s car for sure.
I know it's not traditional but I sure wouldn't want the doors to pop open in a wreck.
Another great video!
Thanks again for sharing
Nice. Thank you.
Great job!
I knew they used wood but never thought they used nails
Nice work
Rust never sleeps.
NEVER stop's either unless FULLY removed..Rust is exactly like Cancer keep that in mind.
Looking real killer Matt
Seeing how hard you worked to get those 2 pieces out... I think I may hire someone to do the body on my 25 buick laughs
Does welding with the rust encapsulater cause any toxic fumes? I'm guessing not...
Keep up the great work. Can't wait to see the Dad's daily going. 😁
i need to do that to my 29 mdl a tudor sedan beause iam putting in a shoulder harness OHIOhotrod
I was surprised at the amount of body wood compared to the "T" bodies. I do recall that Ford had some bodies build by different companies, Murrey, Budd, etc???
Very nice.
I hate to see the thumbs down why that’s what I say👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍from me always
Had to watch the Video 3 times for me to figure out on how to apply this to my 32 Ford 3-W B-Pillars. Wood is rotted out. But the 32 Ford 3-W Doors hang on the B-Pillars. Where as The 5-W Doors hang on the A-Pillar with 2 hinges. The 3-W Doors hang on the B-Pillar with 3 Hinges. A lot more weigh to the 3-W Doors. I'll had to take a closer look tomorrow. Any input at this time for a B-Pillar on a 3-W ? Ps, great video
Same process except you’d add threaded inserts and recesses for the hinges to sit in but can be done out of metal box tubing or bar stock to make “tubing”
No more worries about rot in dat area! Will the added rigidity affect the driving? As always, great stuff!
Fresh-thawed Schroll shell...
Why don't you blast to get rid of rust then seal?
That stuff covers the rust- not much prep needed.
Now the doors will rattle less or come open
May I ask the brand of your Tig machine?
If you put upholstery back in, what are you going to tack the wind lace to ?
Epic, Work with Epic Music!☝️😎😉💯%☝️
where do you find your project cars and what do you do about titles?
i'm in pa also and i know titles are tricky
Did you weight the two parts are any point?
Please offer those chunks of wood for subscribers. I'd buy one. Sure it might sound silly but we like your channel.
REALLY? WHAT YOU NEED MAN I'M IN MASSACHUSETTS
I would have just cut the wood up about a foot and left it because that's used to nail the interior in
just slam that metal against the floor till you get the right curve!
Don’t cut it, don’t bend it, if the metal was the same width as the wood then you would have to but it isn’t so just weld it flush with the inside edge of a post and I’m glad I don’t have to Poster it. 9:41
Matt when using the Eastwood rust encapsulator do you sand or wire wheel the area before applying it ?
Yes and that shits garbage
How good was the fit of the original wood? Working on a 29 sport coupe,
Nice! Did a '26 Roadster Pickup not long ago now and currently doing a '34 Pickup that's a restomod with a Corvette LT4 motor. Cool and fun driver..
Matt, do you track the hours you work on each car? It would be interesting know what it takes to do these builds. Cheers!
To do them correctly from ground up start to finish? Thousand hour.
@@dieseldabz7104 25 weeks at 40 hours... that's a big project. I will plan accordingly.
Are you going to have it sand blasted or?
With a complete wood kit just a phone call away why so u don't have to dick around fastening everything including interior?