Engraving silver tumblers without marking spray
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- Опубліковано 29 вер 2024
- Firing up the Lasermatic MK2 to mark some tumblers without marking spray.
@rolyautomation
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lightsource.pro/
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theclackshack....
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I have heard of transparent aluminum before, but never heard of clear stainless. LOL
It’s just clear stainless…
Excellent video, thanks. I'm assuming you were using the 30w mode on your Roly rather than the 10w, correct?
I have never ran it on 10 watts… lol
Hey did change the frequency on the Roly to engrave on the stainless steel
Not on this job, you can but I ran this at the 10K frequency.
Clack, have you considered sanding the test patterns off and re-using for something not for sale? I know my xTool 40W slightly engraves at my settings, so it might not work well.
The machine removes too much material to be sanded efficiently. They only cost me $7 each
*Great video Clack!* If you want to spend more time and money testing 🤣 change the frequency to 1000 for metals to get a true anneal in one pass. $28=1000. Don't forget to set it back to 10000 when you're done!
I have been playing with it. I have macros set up to swap it out.
Hey David, i was just about to give this a go and did a test and my photo and text is backwards on the burn, but correct in the lightburn workspace. Any suggestions on what I'm doing wrong? Greg
What machine, sounds like the rotary needs to be rotated 180 degrees
Lasermatic MK2. Just like your using.
if you fill up the flasks with cold water before engraving it sucks more of the heat out.
(with a plastic bag of water if needed ?
I just try to find the right settings. Thanks though
Thank you very much.
Very welcome
Loving how helpful your videos are. I’m currently doing some 20oz Yeti tumblers. They’re too close to the laser for proper focus. I ended up mounting the removable floor to the outside of the bottom of the machine. Gave me about 5 millimeters more clearance and I can still use the locator pins.
Way to think outside the box.... get it OUTSIDE the box... great work
thanks for the great videos!! what material would you recomend for marking fruit trees outdoors? I need to mark a few hundred trees with something that can put up with sun and rain for at least a few years. I was looking at the aluminum business cards but I don't know how they'll do outdoors. anything around 4x3 inches should do. thanks again!
Look at getting some anodized aluminum dog tags or round tags. You could attach with wire.
Where did you get the black riser under the laser? Thank you.
@LSengraving... lightsource.pro
What!!!! I'm so stupid. I just realized I didn't Subscribe to your channel yet. Sorry. : ) Thumbs up and a Subscribe.
Thanks…
How did you engrave the bottom of the tumbler with ROLY MK2?
Take the bottom plate out of the enclosure.
Is polished stainless an issue? I have some bar bottle openers that have a pretty polihed surface, are reflections a problem?
I have done lots of semi reflective materials and haven't had an issue. I have seen all the talk about laser reflection damaging the machine but have not experienced it. I have ran many materials and haven't seen any burn marks on the underside of any of my modules. I have even experimented with mirror from the front.
In my opinion, if the beam were to reflect back up, it would be so out of focus that damage wouldn't be likely. If the beam was reflected at its point of focus, every mm it travels will be further and further out of focus. Also, I believe that even a fairly reflective surface would distort the beam to a degree causing further degradation.
Thanks that was very helpful. When you run a larger cup please do a video. I’d like to do a 40oz tumbler but haven’t tackled it yet because I’d lave to take the bottom plate off for it to fit I see the laser head and then how do I use the chuck
I will try to work it in.
Have you been able to test with the $28 setting at 1000? Did it change your speed/pwr settings? I Have a Lasermatic mk2 10/20. and YES, I will test, test, test.
I have tried it and it makes a bit of difference on bare stainless.
thanks. I'll start testing. @@TheClackShack
Would the process be similar using the Wecreat Vision?
Yes, but you will have to find the right settings.
amazing info - thanks so much!
You are very welcome…
you didn't mention but i assume you ran at 30 watts and not 10 thanks
Yea, needed the extra power. I will rarely use 10, I am a power addict
very helpfull, thank you for sharing sir
You are very welcome, Glad you liked it.
Can't, for the life of me, figure out how to get multi layers in the mode menu. Can you help please?
Not sure I understand what you are trying to do. Can you explain?
I noticed in your "cut settings editor" that you have multiple fills. How did you come about getting multiples? In the Cuts/Layers on the top right under mode you have the option of picking "Multi". How did you come about setting it up? I only have the option of line, fill, and fill offset.@@TheClackShack
@@guylongtin8532 right below the layer name when you expand it, hit the plus sign.
Got it!!!! Thanks so much for your help!@@TheClackShack
I am waiting on my box 1 of 2 to show up and then I will be running my 10/20 Roly
I am sure you will enjoy it...
I just got TWO Box B's delivered. No Box A. Apparently their shipping QC needs tightening up.
Great tutorial. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the video. But... If you mentioned what wattage you used... I missed it. Please remember that the LaserMatic comes in a 10W, a 10W that is switchable to a 20W, and of coarse a 10W switchable to a 30W. So... Which wattage laser did you use? Also a reminder that the switch is on the left side of the laser head so your camera angles don't ever show that side where I could just look at the physical switch. Great info. Again, thanks for the video.
It was the 30.
There is a setting on the Roly drop down menu that centers the "Y" axis perfectly, no need to center by hand , then use the "move" button to adjust the 'X'
I am used to doing it by hand. I have used it but my habit is to do it by hand.
Clack, I am getting my MK2 today so I plan on doing some testing too, but I wanted to offer what I think, not to be confused with what I know. I would think that if you increased your line intervals to .15 you would be able to mark them with less dimpling. What the low line intervals I think you run the risk of adding heat to an area for too long since there will be so much overlap, especially with the larger dot size of the 30W. I have been testing with line intervals a lot lately and I have been surprised by the results, not really what you would think in some cases. Now when I do a materials test I find the power setting for the speed I like then I run another grid comparing the power and line interval. Just a thought.
It is possible, a combination of lines, change of focus, right combination of speed and power and many others will make a difference. There are many variables that can be tweaked, I try variations until I get a look I like. There are always more possibilities.
You are correct and I have learned a lot from the time you spend testing and sharing your results, thank you. I hope my comment didn't come across as me saying "you could have done better". You just got me thinking about how to reduce the dimpling. @@TheClackShack
Hey could you do a video of setting up the Xtool S1 in lightburn? Cause the canvas and the machine don’t match up in XCS and not sure they’re going to fix it on their platform
Already out there.. Here it is. ua-cam.com/video/wNhFLbimOSo/v-deo.html
Sorry just seen that! Love your videos by the way! Just something else have you had your air hose on your air assist pop off?
Not without pulling it. I use small zip ties on lose hoses. Redneck hose clamp... lol
@@CockRoachZCnc
@@TheClackShack haha! That’s what I was thinking of using! Must be a redneck then lol
This is a common misconception. The gray area at the top of the canvas is usable area. Because the red crosshairs are mounted in front of the laser, they cannot get as far back as the laser can. Therefore, you cannot frame or mark a working area in the gray area. If you place anything to burn back in the gray, it will still burn. If you get a message about objects being out of the marked area, I can't recall, but you either say ignore or clear the marked area.