I also have a 2017 Ioniq with more than 150000km. Brillant car. I also had to change the rear assembly wheel hub (at 90000km), not for the ABS sensor but for the bearing. I also had the motor changed under warranty because of a factory defect which killed a bearing. The battery is still like new, most of the car is still looking new also and I like to compare it to a camel because it is using so little energy compared to other EVs. I drove a few EVs (Citroen C-zero, MG ZS2 and MG4) and the Ioniq is one of the best EVs out there. By the way, we can see now a Ioniq 28 with more than 500000km !! with only 10% battery degradation.
I currently thinking of buying a pre used car sitting at 200k kms do you think its worth it. That the battery hasn’t been done for yet. Also whats your car mileage rn
had my 69 plate since March and done 10k miles, I've done many 70 mile days at 6.2 miles per kWh, charging at home overnight with a cost at 7.5p per kWh so almost 1 p per mile driving. Great reliable cruise control on the motorways and 66 kWh rapid charging up to 80% means a 10 - 80 % charge take s18 minutes. Most efficient EV to date!
These are starting to come through second hand in Australia now that the Dolphin , MG4 and Ora Cat are for sale under $40k Australian. However, I think a lot of people are scared off by horror stories of Hyundai quoting $29,000 to change the battery when that is the same price as the car itself! So there are quite a few sitting on websites unsold. People are worried about buying this car.
Your videos have really helped me feel that I've made the right choice as I've just purchased a 2018 Ionic, with only 19k miles! First electric car I've owned and I love it.
95,000m/130m range = 730.7 recharge cycles. I would expect 1500 charge cycles to 80% soh. So only another 95,000 miles to go then 🤣. And after 80% degradation the curve becomes even shallower. The next 10% might take twice as long 100 to 80 about 200k 80 to 70 the same Basically degradation flattens off to almost level after 80%
We have been loyal Toyota owners for the most part over the years (some Hondas, a few Fords, etc.,) and all of our vehicles ended up with a minimum 300,000km on them before we send them down the road. Both my wife and I put on 60 - 75,000 KM a year in work (I am now retired and wife retires in about 8 months). We just purchased a Kona EV at end of August and have 7500km on it already and are leaving on a 4400km trip in November. We fully expect to pile many miles on this vehicle...it seems very well built and we absolutely love having an EV. If the Ionic is as good a vehicle as it sounds and the Kona shares that build quality I suspect we will be very well pleased with the Kona! Thank you Mike 🇨🇦
My next door neighbour has one, and charges by solar panels. He loves it. On the first service, they tweaked the computer, and he says he now gets better range. I talked t a guy in a parking lot yesterday with the same car, it being a 2019, and asked him how he liked it. He said he's had no issues at all.
I’ve got one of these. 68 Reg , just gone over to 30k miles, just Services , 2x recalls and a pair of tailgate struts…. I can get 152 miles after a charge (summer) and usually get 6.something M/kWh . Just had to remove those standard fit aquaplane tyres that it came with to keep safe , delighted with this car 😊
I’m a driving instructor and use my 38 kWh for driving tuition and it’s a remarkable car, crazy efficient. Your earlier videos helped me choosing to buy my Ioniq, so thanks for the content. I’ve had a few build quality issues, specifically a front passenger seat that squeaked constantly when in use and took 12 months for Hyundai to admit defeat and replace under warranty. I’ve rattles from the back, and I need to delve deeper into where it’s coming from, it’s either rear seat or boot area. Biggest gripe is the inaccuracy of the speedo and TPS. The speedo is way off, 3mph up to about 50mph and then close to 5mph at 70mph. So, my pupils who think it’s ok driving at 28mph in a 30 zone, are in reality doing 25mph, that’s ok but it encourages tailgating. My previous BMW 1 Series was bang on accurate and it’s hard to adjust to the difference. The TPS is just pointless, at 36 psi the display reads 39/40 psi, which is a safety concern as some drivers would have under inflated tyres if they just used the car for tyre pressures.
The speedo being 3-5mph out is a common thing and I've found all my vehicles do this (I've had about 30 cars). Its something I don't notice on more modern cars as I don't have a separate Tomtom running where I can see the real speed. However, I have found my Tesla Model S is accurate and its the first vehicle that I've noticed this to be the case.
3-5km is super common. Am surprised you haven’t experienced this before. Only some euro has exact and most jap/korean cars has this contingency. Also squeak n all must be previous owner or urs being lemon. We bought few for our fleet - all r just as good as my bmw. Ofcourse material quality is not in same league but very well put together
I am leasing a series 2 38kWh Ioniq, utterly brilliant and reliable car! Just a pity the Ioniq is being discontinued as I would certainly have leased another when my current lease runs out in 2024.
@@rimgaudastamulevicius8614 The Ioniq 6 is much pricier (and beautiful), hoping for a true replacement when they do an Ioniq 3 or 4 maybe. Nothing on the market can replace my facelifted 38KWh model.
I have a 28kWh Ioniq. Without using some magic ecu reader my car has a predicted range of about 145 miles in summer when fully charged. The display says that it is fully charged. I have no problems with mine. I wish it had better clearance under the battery pack but still.. love the car. Don't see a reason to change it, even for a 38kWh one. Oh and mine os the gold colour which stands out in the supermarket car parks!
Yes, I agree in general degradation is minimal on most EVs, but the Leaf has really given that notion a black eye. You like in (usually) mild UK, which has a major impact on batteries in cars with no thermal management, like my car, e-Golf, Leaf, and others. Keeping car at 100% SoC for long periods is also bad.
Mine has done 5+ years 71 k miles. Rear brakes changed at 65k miles and front multifunction camera failed (used for front collision warning and LKA) cost £1500 at 68k miles. Still like new!
My 2017, 80.000km, rear disks and pads were replaced because they were rusted from too little driving during Covid. Also the 12v battery failed at about 5 years. That's about it.
I have similar issue with those warning lights that shows up and thanks goodness it’s under warranty they have replaced my Handbrake control system with brand new. So far so good it’s doing great. I have over 110000 km
Batteries do degrade over time, but it's not like it was in the days of the G Wiz, battery technology has advanced so much, I would buy an electric vehicle but infrastructure in the area where I live is very poor and I'm unable to have a home chargepoint so I would be solely reliant on public chargepoints, which, for the few we have locally, even with diesel prices being what they are today, it's still cheaper to run my little Smart ForTwo diesel than paying for charging and parking fees
Yes part available next day, but very expensive as they don't sell just the sensor for the rear wheels, like they do on the front. On the rear, the sensor is integrated into the whole wheel hub & bearing....as I showed at the end of this video. But maybe you missed it...not many watch all the way through. Another video is coming on this soon about the wheel hub.
We have a 2019 28kw Ioniq with 91,000 miles. similar story with car being very low maintenance, but I feel probably some degradation is there. According to the car I get c. 120 miles in UK winter and c. 135 in UK summer. That's fairly gentle driving with max BER. I think that's a bit less than expected, but pretty good on the whole and good enough for me... however, during the drive if you take note of miles driven the miles left falls quicker than the distance travelled. To the point where I'll have 30 miles left to travel and 60 left in the car range, I'll get to 25 miles left to travel but only 52 in range and so on, then by the time I'm at 20 I might only have 30 left. I'm always aware of my range, to the point of range anxiety due to this, so will end up dropping speed further and turn off android auto, etc to try and preserve range but it always seems to tick down faster than distance travelled.
It has to be with ur driving. I have same one since new and 5 years & 84,000km later i get 300km on full charge. Way more than factory estimates and i taught few ppl how to get same. Best to look up videos on youtube how to drive prius efficiently- learn smooth take off & breaking, gliding and understanding road ahead also use fan and intermittent ac/heater so it gives u max km I have done 263km long trip at 100 - 110 km/h combination of hill n flat roads and cale home with 27km
Hi Matt. Excellent video helping to dispel the myth about EV battery degradation. Your Hyundai Ioniq has clearly stood the test of time and the battery pack in particular seems to be performing superbly well. I'm a relative newcomer to EV's and drive a 1-year old Hyundai Kona with a 64 kWh battery pack. I've only done just over 10,000 miles but do remember reading that the number of charge/discharge cycles can affect battery degradation. The small battery pack in your Ioniq must have been through thousands of charge/discharge cycles during the 95,017 miles covered to date. Is your test equipment able to analyse if this has caused any issues with the battery pack?
I've done plenty of videos on Ioniq battery life. Such as this one ua-cam.com/video/lE7QgYLN3Dc/v-deo.html and others here ua-cam.com/users/GoGreenAutossearch?query=ioniq
Had my hyundai ioniq 28kwh for roughly 2 months. Never go back to ICE. I've been driving it everywhere because its so cheap to run. I think I have an issue with my handbrake button. I have to firmly pull of the switch to engage the handbrake. Feels like the outer switch is not contacting the inner switch properly. It should be warranty job. Will sort it out when it gets serviced.
My 30 month old 40 kWh Nissan with 16k miles has only lost 3.8% state of health admittedly I only rapid charge a few times a year, mainly 7kW or granny charge.
@acizko92 I never got a statement of the cause but I believe the seal got compromised so fluid was lost over the time. I drove it in extreme cold climate extensively. Still the transmission lasted until August when it finally failed. The 2nd is a bit noisy but I learned how to change the oil on my own so it isn't detoriating. I think it must have been a bad piece it started grinding right after 30k. Just don't play with the car the motor is eating the gearbox when pushed.
actually, rapid charging every once in a while might be a good thing. rapid charging multiple times in a row frequently might degrade the battery, specially if the thermal management isn't keeping up with it. btw, given that an EV is used mostly for short trips, 100 000 miles might just mean it outlived an ICE car that is used in the same way. the last 3 cars my family owned didn't really reach 100 000 miles before being uneconomical to repair. the issue is that we live 3 miles away from the town(workplace, shops...) so in winter, engines in ICE cars have problems getting to operating temperatures. most mechanics will tell you that this type of use causes far more wear than doing long distances crusing down the highway.
About £8K difference in price though. I would say that the Ioniq is probably a better built and a more reliable vehicle, but that said MGs are good too and have a long warranty. A hard choice if its not about the cost. The MG will probably be more desirable in years to come when you come to sell it, due to being newer with a larger battery, so will have low depreciation. But that said, the Ioniq holds its value extremely well too.
Brilliant review. Contemplating going back to ioniq 28 from my 30 leaf. But also looking at ioniq 38. Do you know if their battery is as efficient as the 28 ioniq ?
They’re pretty much just as efficient but the rapid charging isn’t as good. 10-80% in the 38kWh model will take 50-60 mins. They top out at 50kW and start to taper at ~50% and by 75% it’ll only be pulling about 15kW
Fossil egines also degrades. 1000 mechanical parts moving around. Some of them very flimsy. But no one talks about it. Because you can't measure it in an easy way and you can't pinpoint on a single part because there are so much.
There are later videos on the channel about this car. As for the number of rapid charges, the previous owner would have done a fair few to clock up these miles. We've owned it since 70,000-102,000 miles and do very few DC charges. It is AC charged every night to 100% and we rarely require any further charging.
Matt. Am I correct in saying that the Ioniq doesn’t have thermal management either? I thought it takes air in from under the rear bench and utilises that recycled air to cool the battery much like the Leaf does? This is a question from an Ioniq 28kWh owner. Thanks.
Yes it does have thermal management. The battery is actively air cooled by a fan drawing air from the cabin. The Leaf is only passively air cooled, no fan, which is what leads to the ‘rapid gate’ problems.
I have a 2020 Ioniq phev that’s been awesome. I drive 100 miles round trip a day to/from work. Looking to go full EV and looking at this Ioniq. I live in Phoenix and thus for several months a year the heat concerns me for the range. Can anyone comment on if there is a cooling system for the battery and motor to help keep the range? I notice my regen stops when it gets hot out and has been used for most of the 50 mile trip home.
@@GoGreenAutos but how will the heat affect the range? Is there a battery/motor cooling to help maintain the range or will I lose some of it in the heat?
@@jcstreck74 I can't comment on temperatures outside of the UK as I have no experience of them. But generally EVs are not effected by heat. They all have water cooling on the motor and other electronics (charger, inverter etc) and then water or air cooling on the battery pack in various forms of complexity and effectiveness. You can't compare an EV to a PHEV as the electric powertrains are completely different.
Hope you can post a video of that rear wheel sensor replacement Was the state of the 12v battery checked when you had the errors coming up ? Only that it has a 3 year warranty and you reported that its a 5 year old vehicle
@@GoGreenAutos Sorry Matt for my earlier comment about the 12v battery warranty While on the subject of warranty You'd got some paperwork in hand did that relate to the latest recall ? The one that you had no idea what had been done I challenged my dealership for lack of documentation regarding the recall which was met with a very blunt No we don't issue paperwork regarding recall work Should I threaten them with a freedom of information rites regarding my own vehicle or just report them to Hyundai
The Ioniq does not report its true capacity, the Ioniq reports 28kw.hr capacity while the true capacity started at 31kw.hr when new, this way it can report 100% capacity and appear to have zero degradation The degradation is slow, a few % per 100,000km
Not much. Not much to service on an EV. Its just a check over and a cabin filter replacement and occasionally change the brake fluid (which is normally doesn't need changing anyway).
@@karimbenallal4454 Never as not part of the service schedule at Hyundai. But I advise to change it every 60,000 miles or so. See ua-cam.com/video/uiORQnQv_x4/v-deo.html
The official range (using the NEDC test cycle) is 174 miles. However in the real world, it is around 140 miles in the summer, but with efficient driving you can get more and some drivers have even achieved the NEDC figure with very careful driving. Range is always less in the winter due to colder temperatures and heating use and can be up to 20% less. The range you can achieve with a full battery at different average driving economies is: 6.0 mpkWh (super efficient city driving) = 168 miles 5.5 mpkWh (efficient summer driving) = 154 miles 4.5 mpkWh (average driving) = 126 miles 4.0 mpkWh (efficient winter driving) = 112 miles 3.5 mpkWh (very cold winter driving) = 98 miles
100% State of Healthy after 95000 miles seems really weird. Does the battery have some buffer that is hidden that masks the degradation? All batteries should degrade at least like 10%, its natural.
@@GoGreenAutos most batteries have buffers but some manufacturers show degradation across the whole battery. I think its the correct way of presenting it since the buffer degrades with your battery equally.
Bit late to the party, but just bought a 2018 second hand car. Opening the passenger door and the handle broke. The build quality seems quite poor 'behind the scenes' - its a simple bit of plastic that has broken. :( Shame too the user can't see the battery health, and can only be accessed via secret black box devices. Should be accessible to the driver .. even if behind an 'advanced' menu.
Handles breaking is fairly common. I did a video on this issue, see ua-cam.com/video/Jdi9kXtb2TQ/v-deo.htmlsi=cdMDzXZNmzNulfzv I then superglued the handle back and that was over 1.5 years and they've been fine since.
Is that around 2/3 charge but scanner is showing 3.7v for cells? Normally 3.7v is 50% charge. May be Hyundai have decided people will more likely to keep the car topped up, so have a HUGE top buffer. Also, is that winter or all-season tyres?
Normally lithium cells have a nominal rated voltage of 3,75V. Rated voltage is about 90% SoC, not 50%. For cells, you can calculate with 3,0V as empty, 3,7V as nominal, and 4,2V as absolute maximum for safe use. You can over charge to about 4,5-4,7V, which is degrading the cell. In this case they're probably using 3,3V-4,0V for 0% to 100%, which is very good for the cells.
I got all the lights on and all it was. was dirt on the sensor. so 1st step is to clean all car sensors and drive as it does not clear off straight away. I got the recall for some earth cable problem thing which they fixed for free. on battery does it have info on amount of charging at 7kw and 50kw charging amounts you forgot to wash the car there are dead flies on the front hehehe
@@barryw9473 Battery still takes a full 28kWh back into the pack, even allowing for losses from the charging system. Plenty of Ioniq videos on the channel if you want to see more ua-cam.com/users/GoGreenAutossearch?query=ioniq
Yep and Ford just issued a safety bulletin about not parking your ICE vehicle in a garage or near other property due to a fire risk...affects about 300,000 iirc. So your point is what? Have a good day! Mike 🇨🇦
5 years for a petrol car is still new for us in the developing world lol. I bought my car 13 years old! Do you think an EV will still work after 13 years at all?
If my 14 year old 2008 Toyota Prius Hybrid (140k miles) is still running on its original traction battery (the vehicle WILL NOT RUN without it working) then there’s no reason why an EV’s superior battery technology shouldn’t last as long as my ancient daily commuter Prius. Some earlier EV’s had thermal management issues with their traction battery design (looking at you Nissan Leaf 1st Generation), but subsequent EV designers have gone to great lengths to avoid similar problems occurring - and they simply no longer occur. The Honda Civic Hybrid of the same era as my Prius Tspirit also had major battery degradation issues and may have been the catalyst for myths about premature battery failures in EVs. We live in a temperate climate zone where an EV’s batteries are less likely to encounter premature failure due to thermal cooling issues.
EVs are very long lasting and have lower running costs, so they become more cost effective as they get older. I expect to see older EVs being popular in developing countries. Many drivers in urban areas of developing countries will accept reduced range from an old battery. When a battery pack eventually needs to be replaced, it takes many hours of labour, so that will be more economical in a developing country. Battery cells mass produced by BYD and CATL in China are getting less expensive, so replacing the battery will get less expensive. With all these factors combined, I expect that supply of old EVs in developed countries and demand for affordable driving in developing countries will lead to a natural business opportunity.
@@thelovertunisia you clearly aren't checking countries like india which already have affordable EVs Not to forget that China has a lot of affordable options
My battery is gone at 38000 miles on 2019 model. Same car. I wouldn’t recommend this trash. Even it’s cheap but it’s too much headache and many errors along the way. Get a Tesla if you want top service better peace of mind.
I also have a 2017 Ioniq with more than 150000km. Brillant car.
I also had to change the rear assembly wheel hub (at 90000km), not for the ABS sensor but for the bearing.
I also had the motor changed under warranty because of a factory defect which killed a bearing.
The battery is still like new, most of the car is still looking new also and I like to compare it to a camel because it is using so little energy compared to other EVs.
I drove a few EVs (Citroen C-zero, MG ZS2 and MG4) and the Ioniq is one of the best EVs out there.
By the way, we can see now a Ioniq 28 with more than 500000km !! with only 10% battery degradation.
I currently thinking of buying a pre used car sitting at 200k kms do you think its worth it. That the battery hasn’t been done for yet. Also whats your car mileage rn
My 2018 model is coming up on 68k (63k as a taxi) and still getting the same miles per kWh as I did when I bought it. Best purchase I ever made.
Is there a difference in range in summer and winter if you don't mind me asking?
@@khurramshehzad7311 About 130 in winter and 150 in summer.
@@khurramshehzad7311 Every single EV on this planet loses range in winter time
Yes. Like every goddamn car@@khurramshehzad7311
I love my Hyundai 28 kWh ‘Wind Knife’!
had my 69 plate since March and done 10k miles, I've done many 70 mile days at 6.2 miles per kWh, charging at home overnight with a cost at 7.5p per kWh so almost 1 p per mile driving. Great reliable cruise control on the motorways and 66 kWh rapid charging up to 80% means a 10 - 80 % charge take s18 minutes. Most efficient EV to date!
I have the same car and I must say it has be a dream to own.
We have this car as well, nothing ever needs fixing, absolutely amazing. And we live in rural Sweden so often unpaved roads.
These are starting to come through second hand in Australia now that the Dolphin , MG4 and Ora Cat are for sale under $40k Australian. However, I think a lot of people are scared off by horror stories of Hyundai quoting $29,000 to change the battery when that is the same price as the car itself! So there are quite a few sitting on websites unsold. People are worried about buying this car.
Those second ev’s prices need to fall due to newer better design and build on the market
Your videos have really helped me feel that I've made the right choice as I've just purchased a 2018 Ionic, with only 19k miles! First electric car I've owned and I love it.
Probably the most reliable EV available.
How much was it?
Excellent. It leaves you thinking this car would do another 95'0000 miles....
I think it would quite easily. We have no plans to replace it and Mel is doing 13,000 miles a year in it.
95,000m/130m range = 730.7 recharge cycles. I would expect 1500 charge cycles to 80% soh. So only another 95,000 miles to go then 🤣.
And after 80% degradation the curve becomes even shallower. The next 10% might take twice as long
100 to 80 about 200k
80 to 70 the same
Basically degradation flattens off to almost level after 80%
We have been loyal Toyota owners for the most part over the years (some Hondas, a few Fords, etc.,) and all of our vehicles ended up with a minimum 300,000km on them before we send them down the road. Both my wife and I put on 60 - 75,000 KM a year in work (I am now retired and wife retires in about 8 months). We just purchased a Kona EV at end of August and have 7500km on it already and are leaving on a 4400km trip in November. We fully expect to pile many miles on this vehicle...it seems very well built and we absolutely love having an EV. If the Ionic is as good a vehicle as it sounds and the Kona shares that build quality I suspect we will be very well pleased with the Kona!
Thank you
Mike 🇨🇦
Thank you Matt. I'm impressed with the Ioniq's reliability. I would seriously consider one as a replacement for my Zoe.
Love that car. The blue looks glorious in the sunshine. Would have been happy to watch you replace the part too, Matt. 👍 😊
My next door neighbour has one, and charges by solar panels. He loves it. On the first service, they tweaked the computer, and he says he now gets better range. I talked t a guy in a parking lot yesterday with the same car, it being a 2019, and asked him how he liked it. He said he's had no issues at all.
I’ve got one of these. 68 Reg , just gone over to 30k miles, just Services , 2x recalls and a pair of tailgate struts…. I can get 152 miles after a charge (summer) and usually get 6.something M/kWh . Just had to remove those standard fit aquaplane tyres that it came with to keep safe , delighted with this car 😊
I’m a driving instructor and use my 38 kWh for driving tuition and it’s a remarkable car, crazy efficient. Your earlier videos helped me choosing to buy my Ioniq, so thanks for the content.
I’ve had a few build quality issues, specifically a front passenger seat that squeaked constantly when in use and took 12 months for Hyundai to admit defeat and replace under warranty. I’ve rattles from the back, and I need to delve deeper into where it’s coming from, it’s either rear seat or boot area.
Biggest gripe is the inaccuracy of the speedo and TPS. The speedo is way off, 3mph up to about 50mph and then close to 5mph at 70mph. So, my pupils who think it’s ok driving at 28mph in a 30 zone, are in reality doing 25mph, that’s ok but it encourages tailgating. My previous BMW 1 Series was bang on accurate and it’s hard to adjust to the difference. The TPS is just pointless, at 36 psi the display reads 39/40 psi, which is a safety concern as some drivers would have under inflated tyres if they just used the car for tyre pressures.
The speedo being 3-5mph out is a common thing and I've found all my vehicles do this (I've had about 30 cars). Its something I don't notice on more modern cars as I don't have a separate Tomtom running where I can see the real speed. However, I have found my Tesla Model S is accurate and its the first vehicle that I've noticed this to be the case.
3-5km is super common. Am surprised you haven’t experienced this before. Only some euro has exact and most jap/korean cars has this contingency. Also squeak n all must be previous owner or urs being lemon. We bought few for our fleet - all r just as good as my bmw. Ofcourse material quality is not in same league but very well put together
Another excellent video - keep it up!
I am leasing a series 2 38kWh Ioniq, utterly brilliant and reliable car! Just a pity the Ioniq is being discontinued as I would certainly have leased another when my current lease runs out in 2024.
You can extend it I think. I'll probably do that with mine in 2024. Hopefully car price insanity will have subsided then
Ioniq is being replaced with Ioniq 6, it does not make much sense to have 2 sedans
@@rimgaudastamulevicius8614 The Ioniq 6 is much pricier (and beautiful), hoping for a true replacement when they do an Ioniq 3 or 4 maybe. Nothing on the market can replace my facelifted 38KWh model.
I have a 28kWh Ioniq. Without using some magic ecu reader my car has a predicted range of about 145 miles in summer when fully charged. The display says that it is fully charged. I have no problems with mine. I wish it had better clearance under the battery pack but still.. love the car. Don't see a reason to change it, even for a 38kWh one. Oh and mine os the gold colour which stands out in the supermarket car parks!
The yellow is my favourite colour.
Best colour!
Yes, I agree in general degradation is minimal on most EVs, but the Leaf has really given that notion a black eye. You like in (usually) mild UK, which has a major impact on batteries in cars with no thermal management, like my car, e-Golf, Leaf, and others. Keeping car at 100% SoC for long periods is also bad.
Mine has done 5+ years 71 k miles. Rear brakes changed at 65k miles and front multifunction camera failed (used for front collision warning and LKA) cost £1500 at 68k miles. Still like new!
Great video, Ed! I am looking forward to rolling around in my "new" 2019 Ioniq.
Very good news for EV's. Value for money driving. thanks for the video.
Thanks for this.
My 2017, 80.000km, rear disks and pads were replaced because they were rusted from too little driving during Covid. Also the 12v battery failed at about 5 years. That's about it.
I have similar issue with those warning lights that shows up and thanks goodness it’s under warranty they have replaced my Handbrake control system with brand new. So far so good it’s doing great. I have over 110000 km
Great video
Great video. Must have a big top buffer if it shows no degradation.
Batteries do degrade over time, but it's not like it was in the days of the G Wiz, battery technology has advanced so much, I would buy an electric vehicle but infrastructure in the area where I live is very poor and I'm unable to have a home chargepoint so I would be solely reliant on public chargepoints, which, for the few we have locally, even with diesel prices being what they are today, it's still cheaper to run my little Smart ForTwo diesel than paying for charging and parking fees
Good Info on the quality of the Ionic. Hope the part was easily available and reasonable priced.
Yes part available next day, but very expensive as they don't sell just the sensor for the rear wheels, like they do on the front. On the rear, the sensor is integrated into the whole wheel hub & bearing....as I showed at the end of this video. But maybe you missed it...not many watch all the way through. Another video is coming on this soon about the wheel hub.
We have a 2019 28kw Ioniq with 91,000 miles. similar story with car being very low maintenance, but I feel probably some degradation is there. According to the car I get c. 120 miles in UK winter and c. 135 in UK summer. That's fairly gentle driving with max BER. I think that's a bit less than expected, but pretty good on the whole and good enough for me... however, during the drive if you take note of miles driven the miles left falls quicker than the distance travelled. To the point where I'll have 30 miles left to travel and 60 left in the car range, I'll get to 25 miles left to travel but only 52 in range and so on, then by the time I'm at 20 I might only have 30 left. I'm always aware of my range, to the point of range anxiety due to this, so will end up dropping speed further and turn off android auto, etc to try and preserve range but it always seems to tick down faster than distance travelled.
It has to be with ur driving. I have same one since new and 5 years & 84,000km later i get 300km on full charge. Way more than factory estimates and i taught few ppl how to get same. Best to look up videos on youtube how to drive prius efficiently- learn smooth take off & breaking, gliding and understanding road ahead also use fan and intermittent ac/heater so it gives u max km
I have done 263km long trip at 100 - 110 km/h combination of hill n flat roads and cale home with 27km
Hi Matt. Excellent video helping to dispel the myth about EV battery degradation.
Your Hyundai Ioniq has clearly stood the test of time and the battery pack in particular seems to be performing superbly well.
I'm a relative newcomer to EV's and drive a 1-year old Hyundai Kona with a 64 kWh battery pack. I've only done just over 10,000 miles but do remember reading that the number of charge/discharge cycles can affect battery degradation.
The small battery pack in your Ioniq must have been through thousands of charge/discharge cycles during the 95,017 miles covered to date. Is your test equipment able to analyse if this has caused any issues with the battery pack?
I've done plenty of videos on Ioniq battery life. Such as this one ua-cam.com/video/lE7QgYLN3Dc/v-deo.html and others here ua-cam.com/users/GoGreenAutossearch?query=ioniq
My 2017 ioniq hybrid reach 92,000 miles and only issue is my power steering noise when turning left. It gets 48-50mpg
I love my Ioniq electric....! 😃
Had my hyundai ioniq 28kwh for roughly 2 months. Never go back to ICE. I've been driving it everywhere because its so cheap to run. I think I have an issue with my handbrake button. I have to firmly pull of the switch to engage the handbrake. Feels like the outer switch is not contacting the inner switch properly. It should be warranty job. Will sort it out when it gets serviced.
My 30 month old 40 kWh Nissan with 16k miles has only lost 3.8% state of health admittedly I only rapid charge a few times a year, mainly 7kW or granny charge.
199k 2 gearbox changes at 110k and next when it fails again it is already grinding trough. Rear brakes seized due to rust and unused at 160k.
Please email me on matt@gogreenautos.co.uk as I'd love to hear more about this and have questions to ask you.
Really? What happened with the gearbox? Is there a known weakness on these cars? I have a 2019 ioniq with 29k km
@acizko92 I never got a statement of the cause but I believe the seal got compromised so fluid was lost over the time. I drove it in extreme cold climate extensively. Still the transmission lasted until August when it finally failed. The 2nd is a bit noisy but I learned how to change the oil on my own so it isn't detoriating. I think it must have been a bad piece it started grinding right after 30k. Just don't play with the car the motor is eating the gearbox when pushed.
actually, rapid charging every once in a while might be a good thing. rapid charging multiple times in a row frequently might degrade the battery, specially if the thermal management isn't keeping up with it. btw, given that an EV is used mostly for short trips, 100 000 miles might just mean it outlived an ICE car that is used in the same way. the last 3 cars my family owned didn't really reach 100 000 miles before being uneconomical to repair. the issue is that we live 3 miles away from the town(workplace, shops...) so in winter, engines in ICE cars have problems getting to operating temperatures. most mechanics will tell you that this type of use causes far more wear than doing long distances crusing down the highway.
Good information 👍. Would like to see you replace the bearing/abs sensor assembly. What was the cost of the assembly?
The list price is £158+VAT.
@Macmonkey1000 Yes, it certainly felt like that.
I have a recall...I was told I would receive something in the mail when I bought it from carvana but it's been two months and nothing 👀
Between a second hand Ioniq 28Kwh and a new MG4 51Kwh , I'm still wondering which one I would choose....
About £8K difference in price though. I would say that the Ioniq is probably a better built and a more reliable vehicle, but that said MGs are good too and have a long warranty. A hard choice if its not about the cost. The MG will probably be more desirable in years to come when you come to sell it, due to being newer with a larger battery, so will have low depreciation. But that said, the Ioniq holds its value extremely well too.
Thank you for that information could you tell us all how much you paid for that wheel bearing in the sensor Thank you.
In a future video coming shortly...
The list price is £158+VAT
@@GoGreenAutos Thanks 👍🏿
Brilliant review. Contemplating going back to ioniq 28 from my 30 leaf. But also looking at ioniq 38. Do you know if their battery is as efficient as the 28 ioniq ?
They’re pretty much just as efficient but the rapid charging isn’t as good. 10-80% in the 38kWh model will take 50-60 mins. They top out at 50kW and start to taper at ~50% and by 75% it’ll only be pulling about 15kW
Just as expected, petrol powered Hyundai's are reliable, and this electric contain even fewer parts that can go wrong.
how much range do you get?
Typically about 150 miles. If you put some effort into driving very efficiently, you can get over 170 miles. In the winter, about 120-130 miles.
@@GoGreenAutosin km's that 190 to 240km, impressive for a 28kwh battery.
What type of driving is that, city, highway or a combination?
Fossil egines also degrades. 1000 mechanical parts moving around. Some of them very flimsy. But no one talks about it. Because you can't measure it in an easy way and you can't pinpoint on a single part because there are so much.
Amazing stats on the battery. How often did you use fast charge during these 95000 miles?
There are later videos on the channel about this car. As for the number of rapid charges, the previous owner would have done a fair few to clock up these miles. We've owned it since 70,000-102,000 miles and do very few DC charges. It is AC charged every night to 100% and we rarely require any further charging.
Matt. Am I correct in saying that the Ioniq doesn’t have thermal management either? I thought it takes air in from under the rear bench and utilises that recycled air to cool the battery much like the Leaf does?
This is a question from an Ioniq 28kWh owner. Thanks.
Yes it has a fan that kicks in if the battery temp rises (typically toward the end of a fast charge on a hot day) after some longer journeys.
Yes it does have thermal management. The battery is actively air cooled by a fan drawing air from the cabin. The Leaf is only passively air cooled, no fan, which is what leads to the ‘rapid gate’ problems.
First version air cooled second version liquid cooled
I have a 2020 Ioniq phev that’s been awesome. I drive 100 miles round trip a day to/from work. Looking to go full EV and looking at this Ioniq. I live in Phoenix and thus for several months a year the heat concerns me for the range. Can anyone comment on if there is a cooling system for the battery and motor to help keep the range? I notice my regen stops when it gets hot out and has been used for most of the 50 mile trip home.
The electric side of your PHEV powertrain is nothing like a pure EV powertrain, so don't let the shortcomings of the PHEV guide you.
@@GoGreenAutos but how will the heat affect the range? Is there a battery/motor cooling to help maintain the range or will I lose some of it in the heat?
@@jcstreck74 I can't comment on temperatures outside of the UK as I have no experience of them. But generally EVs are not effected by heat. They all have water cooling on the motor and other electronics (charger, inverter etc) and then water or air cooling on the battery pack in various forms of complexity and effectiveness. You can't compare an EV to a PHEV as the electric powertrains are completely different.
Hope you can post a video of that rear wheel sensor replacement
Was the state of the 12v battery checked when you had the errors coming up ?
Only that it has a 3 year warranty and you reported that its a 5 year old vehicle
🤔 The 28 doesn't seem to suffer the same sort of 12v issues as the 38.
In the UK, these have a 5 year warranty.
12V battery is fine too. I've never had issues with the 12V.
@@GoGreenAutos Sorry Matt for my earlier comment about the 12v battery warranty
While on the subject of warranty
You'd got some paperwork in hand did that relate to the latest recall ?
The one that you had no idea what had been done
I challenged my dealership for lack of documentation regarding the recall which was met with a very blunt No we don't issue paperwork regarding recall work
Should I threaten them with a freedom of information rites regarding my own vehicle or just report them to Hyundai
How did he know that the engine is warm when the glovebox noise appears?
There is no engine temperature indicator.
The Ioniq does not report its true capacity, the Ioniq reports 28kw.hr capacity while the true capacity started at 31kw.hr when new, this way it can report 100% capacity and appear to have zero degradation
The degradation is slow, a few % per 100,000km
Yep I thought so. Kinda sneaky and wrong way of measuring the degradation if it eats up the top and bottom buffer of the battery.
I'm struggling to find what hyundai do for servicing. Would be nice to know what they actually do as there is no engine
Not much. Not much to service on an EV. Its just a check over and a cabin filter replacement and occasionally change the brake fluid (which is normally doesn't need changing anyway).
@@GoGreenAutos I know theres a reduction gear oil. How often does that get replaced?
@@karimbenallal4454 Never as not part of the service schedule at Hyundai. But I advise to change it every 60,000 miles or so. See ua-cam.com/video/uiORQnQv_x4/v-deo.html
Does this version come with the hyundai app ?
No
I've been offered a 2016 model 28kwh version with 132000 miles , fsh for £6k what's your thoughts, what's it's range likely to be,
The official range (using the NEDC test cycle) is 174 miles. However in the real world, it is around 140 miles in the summer, but with efficient driving you can get more and some drivers have even achieved the NEDC figure with very careful driving. Range is always less in the winter due to colder temperatures and heating use and can be up to 20% less.
The range you can achieve with a full battery at different average driving economies is:
6.0 mpkWh (super efficient city driving) = 168 miles
5.5 mpkWh (efficient summer driving) = 154 miles
4.5 mpkWh (average driving) = 126 miles
4.0 mpkWh (efficient winter driving) = 112 miles
3.5 mpkWh (very cold winter driving) = 98 miles
How much time you need to charget battery on ioniq 28KW?
One more question please- year of producet this car is?
From fully empty to fully charged it takes about 4.5 hours on a 7kw charger. On a rapid charger it’s about 20-30 minutes.
So, the range is 100 km or ~10 % of a tank of diesel?
Not even close 😂
95,000m/130m range = 730.7 recharge cycles. I would expect 1500 charge cycles to 80% dod. So only another 95,000 miles to go then 🤣
Not mentioning a price of the sensor assembly is a crime ;D
Covered in detail in ua-cam.com/video/wf43CwP2TVw/v-deo.html and ua-cam.com/video/PhM4rZc3IG4/v-deo.html
100% State of Healthy after 95000 miles seems really weird. Does the battery have some buffer that is hidden that masks the degradation? All batteries should degrade at least like 10%, its natural.
Yes, it has buffers. The usable capacity hasn't changed.
@@GoGreenAutos most batteries have buffers but some manufacturers show degradation across the whole battery. I think its the correct way of presenting it since the buffer degrades with your battery equally.
Bit late to the party, but just bought a 2018 second hand car. Opening the passenger door and the handle broke. The build quality seems quite poor 'behind the scenes' - its a simple bit of plastic that has broken. :(
Shame too the user can't see the battery health, and can only be accessed via secret black box devices. Should be accessible to the driver .. even if behind an 'advanced' menu.
Handles breaking is fairly common. I did a video on this issue, see ua-cam.com/video/Jdi9kXtb2TQ/v-deo.htmlsi=cdMDzXZNmzNulfzv
I then superglued the handle back and that was over 1.5 years and they've been fine since.
Excellent, thanks. Will check that video out. :)
Is that around 2/3 charge but scanner is showing 3.7v for cells? Normally 3.7v is 50% charge. May be Hyundai have decided people will more likely to keep the car topped up, so have a HUGE top buffer.
Also, is that winter or all-season tyres?
All season tyres. See them here ua-cam.com/video/0BSYv5YlRC8/v-deo.html
Normally lithium cells have a nominal rated voltage of 3,75V. Rated voltage is about 90% SoC, not 50%. For cells, you can calculate with 3,0V as empty, 3,7V as nominal, and 4,2V as absolute maximum for safe use. You can over charge to about 4,5-4,7V, which is degrading the cell.
In this case they're probably using 3,3V-4,0V for 0% to 100%, which is very good for the cells.
I got all the lights on and all it was. was dirt on the sensor. so 1st step is to clean all car sensors and drive as it does not clear off straight away.
I got the recall for some earth cable problem thing which they fixed for free.
on battery does it have info on amount of charging at 7kw and 50kw charging amounts
you forgot to wash the car there are dead flies on the front hehehe
👍
Hey no offense, but zero degradation?
I don't know how that's possible, but a minimum of 5-7% has to be the case after 95k mi.
No degradation of the usable capacity.
@@GoGreenAutos according to the computer, yes, but have you performed a range test to verify?
@@barryw9473 Oh yes. And a full recharge, measuring how many kWh go back in to the pack.
@@GoGreenAutos And what was the measurement?
@@barryw9473 Battery still takes a full 28kWh back into the pack, even allowing for losses from the charging system.
Plenty of Ioniq videos on the channel if you want to see more ua-cam.com/users/GoGreenAutossearch?query=ioniq
If you ever want to sell the car please let me know!!
Not a chance lol.I guess 15-30% degrade
You guess wrong. Plenty of videos on that subject on this channel. Here's one on this same EV, see ua-cam.com/video/lE7QgYLN3Dc/v-deo.html
never let facts get in the way of a strong opinion......
six safety recalls including fire.
150'000+ ICE car fires each year in the US. How many of those get recalled for fire risk?
Yep and Ford just issued a safety bulletin about not parking your ICE vehicle in a garage or near other property due to a fire risk...affects about 300,000 iirc.
So your point is what?
Have a good day!
Mike 🇨🇦
5 years for a petrol car is still new for us in the developing world lol. I bought my car 13 years old! Do you think an EV will still work after 13 years at all?
If my 14 year old 2008 Toyota Prius Hybrid (140k miles) is still running on its original traction battery (the vehicle WILL NOT RUN without it working) then there’s no reason why an EV’s superior battery technology shouldn’t last as long as my ancient daily commuter Prius.
Some earlier EV’s had thermal management issues with their traction battery design (looking at you Nissan Leaf 1st Generation), but subsequent EV designers have gone to great lengths to avoid similar problems occurring - and they simply no longer occur.
The Honda Civic Hybrid of the same era as my Prius Tspirit also had major battery degradation issues and may have been the catalyst for myths about premature battery failures in EVs. We live in a temperate climate zone where an EV’s batteries are less likely to encounter premature failure due to thermal cooling issues.
@@datathunderstorm Do you think there will ever be affordable EVs.? Like really affordable for poorer countries?
EVs are very long lasting and have lower running costs, so they become more cost effective as they get older. I expect to see older EVs being popular in developing countries. Many drivers in urban areas of developing countries will accept reduced range from an old battery. When a battery pack eventually needs to be replaced, it takes many hours of labour, so that will be more economical in a developing country. Battery cells mass produced by BYD and CATL in China are getting less expensive, so replacing the battery will get less expensive. With all these factors combined, I expect that supply of old EVs in developed countries and demand for affordable driving in developing countries will lead to a natural business opportunity.
@@thelovertunisia you clearly aren't checking countries like india which already have affordable EVs
Not to forget that China has a lot of affordable options
@@nujjigram Yes but they don't allow us to import them here because of so called "EU" norms!
So this utterly reliable and loyal car has seen you flirting with a Tesla and has had a hissy fit? Shame on you!
My battery is gone at 38000 miles on 2019 model. Same car. I wouldn’t recommend this trash. Even it’s cheap but it’s too much headache and many errors along the way. Get a Tesla if you want top service better peace of mind.
Fake comment
It is CRAP... just like the 38 kWh its successor. All e.v's are CRAP period.
good to see you are keeping an open mind