Piaggio Moped Engine Tuning
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2024
- I'll show you how to enlarge the intake for a 13 mm Dellorto SHA, adjust the transfer and boost ports and adjust the inlet timing on the crankshaft.
Degreewheel and software can be found on my homepage:
12v.dk/piaggio-...
The video for rebuilding the engine can be found here:
• Piaggio Moped Engine R...
this is excellent! I wish you made this video before I started building my Ciao engine. it would've saved me lots of research and second guessing when trying to translate the Netherland forums!
I have the 43mm Malossi kit and the specs say to cut the crank 10mm open and 5mm close, so I did. my results are: inlet duration 186°, transfer 128°, exhaust 171°. the low end suffered quite a bit, although I am using single speed and decreased the rear pulley to 70mm. my top speed is about 43mph, I was hoping for 50 but it seems the techno circuit pipe isn't good for high end.
very very good info in this video and it's laid out very clearly. even people with little mechanical knowledge would be able to follow this. and I'm glad it's in English.
good job and keep it up! I'd like to see more moped videos from you.
Sir Charles thanks for the nice comment. You can regain a lot of the bottom end with clutch tuning. I like to lighten each shoe with two 8 mm holes and then use the black Malossi springs.
The Techno Circuit isn't a good pipe, what I hear. Better take the Proma Circuit or even a Giannelli Original Power.
43 mph is allright for this setup, maybe you can gain a bit with a better exhaust, but don't expect 50 mph. That takes a larger gear ratio and will hurt the acceleration even more.
Carsten Lorenzen thanks for your reply! yes I tried clutch tuning as well, but even with the weakest Malossi spring it doesn't rev fast enough to work properly. it just keeps slipping and takes very long to grab, acceleration is worse than the stock clutch springs.
I don't know why it is so weak on the take off. I feel it must be timing or ignition because I've fixed the air leaks. could a weak spark cause bad acceleration? I saw your other video, so I will check my coils. but I've already replaced the points, condenser, and external/secondary coil so I think the primary internal coil is not so good.
also it starts ok from cold, but after warm up if I stop and go in a store, 15 min later it becomes very hard to start. I have to hold wide open to try starting and I get some backfire too, I don't know if it's from exhaust or carb though.
Could be an ignition problem, my Piaggios start at the first engine rotation every time, hot and cold. I've never seen an internal coil fail, but have seen new and defective condensors and external coils. Only use the original blue Piaggio coil for the external one. I've only had problems with the remake ones.
What jet and airfilter are you running?
Carsten Lorenzen my Ciao is a completely rigid 1971 base model and it has a brown/tan coil. the jet is a 69, and I have no air filter, just a thin screen. I replaced the original coil because the wire broke off right at the base and there is no way to replace the wire on that type.
so I am thinking there may be a timing problem because of the backfires when trying to start. but if it actually is blowing out of the carb instead of the exhaust, could that be because the crank was cut too much?
I really enjoy watching your videos. Keep up the good work.
Very nice and inspiring video.
I where on youtube looking for information about ignition but ended up doing all modifications from your video
on my Ciao with a 60cc Malossi kit. Using 186 degree duration. Of course I milled a hole in the side of the engine. It was possible to solder with a blow torch and zink.
Had some problems with missfiring. That was solved by changeing the "no name" ignition coil to original blue one.
The engine runns well and revs like crazy. Will try with stiffer clutch springs to improve low speed power.
Thank you Carsten.
Worldclass video :-)
Thx Carsten.
Fantastic and well-done tuning how-to-do-it safely! A big THANK to you, sir! Excellent video!
I dont mean to be off topic but does anybody know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid forgot my account password. I would appreciate any assistance you can offer me!
@Alfred Ernesto Instablaster :)
@Stetson Brett Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Stetson Brett it worked and I actually got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much, you saved my ass !
@Alfred Ernesto Happy to help =)
I like your videos very much! Very well explained. Thank you!
Thank you so much for this Carsten! I agree with many others, a job really well done. It is just my opinion, it would have been so nice tohear it, or see it when it is done! Do you think, you can make a little add on to your video? Lastly, I think your friend (Kim?) is very lucky to have you. Be well.
YES IT WOULD BE GREAT TO HEAR THE SOUND OF THE ENGINE
Würdest du das Video nochmal deutsch synchronisieren? Wäre mega cool!
Die Zeit dazu fehlt mir momentan :)
Carsten Lorenzen Eine genaue Erklärung für die Berechnung würde schon langen.
This is incredibly helpful, thank you.
Thanks for the vid, I opened up the flow path in my Kinetic moped as you show, except I went with a 12mm carb opening, for some more strength in that tube, (looking for a bit more umph) after making a twin muffled expansion pipe (the pipe added 5 mph) and going with a 13;13 carb.
I was curious if the porting would add anything to the low end- it did nothing there, but added some power to the goal of a 30 to 35 mph range. Mike
Hallo erstmal sehr gut erklärt hätte es gerne auf Deutsch gehört aber okay!!! Ich hab mal ne Frage würdest du mich mir eine solch ein Motor fertig feilen würde dich natürlich bezahlen dafür!!! Gruß und hoffe auf Antwort Danke!!!
Hey Carsten. Sorry to bother. I slipped with my Dremel on the part that I wasn't supposed to grind in the rectangular intake in the crankcase side of the Ciao engine. Just made a small scratch but I can feel it with my nail. You reckon I can fill it with epoxy resin? According to the Malossi manual I found online it is very likely that my engine is screwed. Thoughts? Kind regards.
Hi, fill it with a good liquid metal, i use JB Weld. I've repaired very bad intakes with it, with success so far.
Does the engine have to be removed in order to adjust points gap?
No, just remove the clutch/vario, and then you have access to the window in the flywheel.
hi also ich hab ein olympia 43mm zylinder und ich muss ich die transferport herausfinden welches port muss ich nehmen? wie kann ich festellen welches port für was dient?
Transfer sind die seitlichen Überströmer, die bis ins Kurbelwellengehäuse ragen.
welche genau brauche hilfe
also die beim zylinder oben 2 einrisse?
Carsten Lorenzen muss ich vom boden zum auslass messen oder zu denn andere ports
@@baboxh9834 nein, die anderen die bis "nach hinten" zum Fuß offen sind.
I’ve got a question: Why are you adding 10° on minute 27:14.
Hi, it's a overlap that has been determined by two stroke racing teams, to maximize inlet opening and driveability. High revving engines can have even more overlap.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Thanks,
Hallo , sehe das du das Video schon vor längerer Zeit eingestellt hast ! Läuft der Motor eigenlich immer noch oder hat sich das Lager der Kurbelwelle verabschiedet ? Du hast an der einen Scheibe der Kurbelwelle etwas weg geschliffen .... was ist mit der anderen Seite ? Normalerweise sind die beiden Scheiben so hergestellt das sie gleich schwer sind !Wenn du nur die eine Seite schleift bekommst du eine Unwucht ! Der Motor sollte dann nicht so lange halten Besser wäre eine Racing Kurbelwelle zu kaufen .....
Hej Carsten, fantastiske videoer du har lagt op!
Kan du anbefale nogle modifikationer, så jeg kan få min Ciao til at trækker mig op af bakkerne?
Når vi er afsted i klubben er jeg altid sidste mand på toppen af de små bakker. Jeg behøves ikke meget mere topfart end 30-35.
Jeg overvejer selv et hak i stemplet. Giver det mere at bore i indsugingshullet, samt større karburator/dyse?
På forhånd tak.
Lasse Kristensen Hej, Ciaoen er begrænset med en plumbe eller kun 7 mm hul i studsen, dertil en krumtap med anden åbning.
For at man kan gøre noget ved det, skal motoren åbnes. Studs og vinduet gøres større, karburatoren kan nemt slibes/bores til 10-12 mm. Luftfilter skal have nogle ekstra huller, eller skift til filteret fra 50 km/t modellen. Og så lige en inddysning.
Hvis du ikke piller ved gearingen bliver den meget stærkere op ad bakker.
En diskret tunudstødning hjælper også, Giannelli Original Power eller Sito Plus f.eks.
Der er desværre ingen nem løsning på Ciao motoren. Hak i stemplet hjælper intet, den fødes via den i krumtappen integrerede drejeventil.
Carsten Lorenzen tusinde tak for at du tog dig tid til at svare.
Jeg vil give den en overhaling, så er jeg spændt på hvordan den kører :-)
Great video!
If You plan to make more episodes like these, would it be possible to make clips of before and after the modification?
Thanks and greetings from Sweden!
IS IT IMOPORTANT TO GRIND CRANKSHAFT OR NOT?
janTHEone it is
Very nice! Are you sale Dome Motors like This?
Thanks! No i can only help with the video instructions 🙂
Moin Carsten,
Ich hab hier einen Mopedmotor mit bearbeitetem Einlass(13mm) und 63ccm DR Zylinder und Mopedkurbelwelle, sonst alles unbearbeitet
Macht das Sinn noch mehr daran zu bearbeiten ?
Außerdem hab ich noch nen Simonini Calibrata und nen Sito Plus hier liegen
Für den Calibrata ist das Setup wahrscheinlich zu schwach oder ?
Oder würde der gehen wenn man die Überströmer und die Kurbelwelle noch anpasst ?
Gruss Maxi
Moin! Die Kurbelwellenbearbeitung bringt einiges, die anpassung der Überströmer bringt nur gering. Ich mache nur eine leichte anpassung, damit der Gasstrom keine scharfen Kanten trifft. Aufpassen beim ÜS fräsen, da ist nicht viel Material!
Calibrata bringt viel Leistung obenrum, ist aber schwach untenrum und in der mitte, den würde ich nur mit Vario fahren. Bei Mono definitiv den Sito Plus, und der geht auch sehr gut über den gesamten Drehzahlbereich.
Wenn du die Kurbelwelle nicht selben fräsen möchtest, nimm die Rennwellen von Mazzucchelli, die gibt es in 10 und 12 mm und passen perfekt für den DR in einem aufgemachtem original Gehäuse.
kannst du mir auf deutsch erklären wie man die kurbewelle rechnet
Dafür finde ich leider nicht die Zeit. Schau evt im Piaggio Mofa Technik forum (Google). Da gibt es irgendwo eine Anleitung.
fed video meget hjælpsom! hvor hurtig køre den?
Frederik Hjort den toppede på 73 km/t hvis jeg husker ret.
a real engineer
Misst der Pleuel bei Piaggio nicht 90mm?
Nein 87 mm, schau mal hier:
www.nuovamazzucchelli.com/bielle/piaggio.pdf
wo findet man die gradscheibe?
Link oben rechts oder info/i auf dem telefon drücken. Da ist diese Verknüpfung hinterlegt : 12v.dk/piaggio-moped-engine-tuning/
How is the Athena kit? I have been using the Malossi 43mm cylinder for a couple years now and it still runs fine, but is getting weaker and still bad low end power.
So maybe a good time to try a different kit. I've been thinking maybe a DR or Polini, it has to be 43mm as I have no access to mill the case wider.
It's fine, but in the expensive end. The DR is hard to ignore, one of the best performers and the cheapest.
You should have ok bottom end with a malossi 43 mm. Unless you run an expansion pipe exhaust?
I only recommend the original style exhausts for single speed setups, like the Giannelli Original Power or Sito Plus. Though, that might have something to do with my weight also. :-)
@@CarstenLorenzen12V maybe I'll try the DR next, I hear it has a lot of potential for porting too. But I already port matched my case to the Malossi, so there might be an issue if I use a different cylinder and they don't match closely.
I have the Techno Circuit pipe, yeah I know it's not so good, but it's cheap and circuit pipes are said to have better low end anyway. I ride in a lot of city traffic so I need good acceleration off the line.
Wenn ich nur ne normale Mofa Welle hab also nicht die Moped Welle das die mit nem 65ccm Satz klar kommt oder ehr ne renn Welle?
Wenn sie noch gut ist, "einfach" bearbeiten wie ich es im Video zeige. Dann ist es egal ob sie vorher Mofa oder Moped war.
Wenn du eine Rennwelle kaufst, nimm die von Mazzucchelli, viele andere Marken brechen.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Ok danke :D
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Die Steuerzeiten von ner Renn Welle sind ja nicht anders als von der ori oder?
@@dennis4bl120 die rennwellen haben den Einlass länger offen, so ca 30 Grad mehr. Passt ganz gut ins originale Gehäuse mit aufgemachten Einlass.
Die originale Welle ist aber super stabil, besser geht's fast nicht.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Also wenn meine Welle hin is brwuch ich die renn welle nicht nach bearbeiten?
are u going to film it driving?
I hope to testdrive it after all adjustments before my friend takes it home, then i will shoot a video.
nice keep it upp
can i make boostports for 63ccm polini
Yes it has boostports too, but they are pretty well fed through the piston.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V can i dm you on instagram i have to show you some pictures
@@JasJJ69 I'm not on Instagram, sorry. Try some kind of public host and share a link here.
Because of tuning i loose my grandfather moped rip😭😭
Hallo
warum als Deutschsprachiger ein englischer Beitrag produziert wird verstehe ich nicht. Wenn es Französich wäre würde ich es schon nachvollziehen können. Man muß den Verbreitungsraum betrachten, wo diese Fahrzeuge gefahren werden...da erübrigt sich die Frage...Schade für so wenig Selbstbewustsein
Hallo Peter, ich bin Däne. Deutsch und Englisch kann ich beides, ich schaue halt gerne über die Landesgrenzen rüber, ich denke der Rest der Welt freut sich über mein englisches Video. Meine Landsleute würden es auf deutsch auf jeden Fall nicht verstehen 😉
Jeg udvidede motorblokken så den passede med en 46mm cylinder og gjorde boosterhullerne mere åbne , var lidt sløv i optrækket fra o men udover dét så kørte den næsten 80km/t men bremserne var mildest talt spændende wup wup , overlevede dog
Are you german😂
Danish
Thanks for the video. How do I know how much oil to put into my mix once I tuned the engine? I heard some people usually put 3% oil. What do you think? Cheers
I only use 2% in all my mopeds, full synthetic.
Nice ;)
Hmm i think this is the only video that shows that the small ports need to be dremelled all the way.
Everyone else just makes a small dent that I do not think makes any difference.
@@titusm9837 i rarely make them all the way. Depends on how well they are fed trough the piston. On the Athena kits, only the middle two are open trough the piston, so i made channels.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V in my case i have a polini 65. It seems that all the extra openings are used by the piston (also they made some sort of M that connects all the small ones together).
Should i in this case port for this other openings?
I have not seen anyone do this until your videos.
It kind of makes sense because the piston has some extra compression i guess?
Interesting that i have not seen any manufacturer recommending porting for this openings.
@@titusm9837 i like to make a little "pocket" as deep as the opening in the cylinder skirts. This gives a nice channel to feed the booster ports, without any sharp 90 degree corners.
Hvordan fjerner man plumpen?
I'm at a loss and need help please. I was convicted by others to upgrade my 49cc vespa piaggio grande to a higher Bore: 46 Stroke: 43 Displacement: 72. So I honed out the case. Fits rather well. Then I try and do the computation for inlet timing and nothing computer leading me to believe I've been talked into something impossible. Is there anything I can do at this point?
You could try the easy way, take the Malossi or Polini cylinder manual. It was crankshaft grinding recommendations with how many mm you need to take of the opening and closing edges.
@CarstenLorenzen12V Many thanks ill look it up there :)
@@CarstenLorenzen12VI want to do this in „easy way”, but i have a question - when you cut crankshaft just like that, isn’t there a problem with unbalancing it? When U make things like that in car, you have to balance crankshaft in special workshop. Doesn’t the engine start to vibrate or something?
@@piotrjanczar a single cylinder engine without counter balance shaft, will always have vibrations somewhere in the rev range. Yes you change the balance a bit, so the vibrations can become a little stronger and shift to another rpm range.
Piaggio has made the flywheel out of balance, to counter for this cutout. Changing the opening a little, doesn't have a huge effect.
A Ciao engine vibrates no matter what 😅
@@CarstenLorenzen12Vthank you very much for really fast answer! Have a nice day ❤
väldigt lärorikt. jag försöker att få min ciao att gå som den ska, startar jättelätt men helt orkeslös.
79 piaggio Caio primary internal coil puts out 7.4 volts ac,external coil checks out, compression is low 85psi, but engine will not ignite a fuel mixture?
85 psi isn't enough. A stock one does about 9 bar, that's about 130 psi.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V not enough to run,but not enough for engine to backfire once?
@@davidscalf6417 maybe, maybe not 😉 Try to take the sparkplug and cap of the cable, take a little isolation of. Hold the wire 5+ mm from the cylinder head or other metal part of the engine. Turn the engine, and you should have a spark over that distance. If not, your ignition is too weak.
Thank you,my ignition is to weak, the only thing I have not replaced is the condenser.
Hej Carsten jeg ville bare vide om stellet på hele knallerten kan holde til al den ekstra kraft fra en 74cc cylinder
@@kristofferjacobsen1555 ja det går fint. Bravo motorbro og bunden af Ciao stellet er de svageste, du skal ikke køre cross uden forstærkninger. Rust kan også være hårdt ved dem.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V jamen det er bare til at køre rundt med gutterne så ikke noget vild vild kørsel. Men tjekker lige for rust
Hejsa jeg er i gang med at lave en piaggio bravo der forhåbenligt kommer til at køre 50 60 men er lidt i tvivl med karburator tror du at 15 mm er for meget
Make one video on Luna tfr engine petrol shet
Bliv ved med det!
Do boost ports lower fuel efficiency? I understand in making more power one would use more fuel but is there a penalty at more *regular* speeds.
I have no scientific measurements on this subject. What I've noticed is that my tuned mopeds run nearly the same km/l as the slow ones. They run a longer gear ratio, and i can drive the same speed with only a little throttle open.
HI Carsten - thx for superb instruction videos. I do have a few questions though...
1. Is the 1993 ciao piaggio stock crankcase(with enlarged inled) able to fit any of the bigger cylinders offered on the market or limited by size?... says some of the bigger cylinders demands modification of cranckhouse as you mention, but will the "cylinder skirt" from ex BigDep fit? They look to big but are so temting hahaha.
2. When grinding the "plompe" away, how will I know wich carb to choose, many recoments the SHA13/13...
3.På dansk... Husk at motorblokken skal fræses, ved montering i en standard motorblok.... - når der skrives dette om de store cylindere over 43 millimeter, er det så nok at fjerne plomben? Hvis jeg nøjes med 43 millimeter cyl, kan jeg vist genbruge original topstykke korrekt? og kan man vinde lidt kompression ved at plane det lidt, det fik lidt ridser da det skulle afmonteres fra cyl. Det med at tilpasse skyllekanalerne til krankhus pakningstrik kan man jo først når man har cylinderen. Hvor nøjagtigt skal "inled" være, bare som på videoen eller bare nogenlunde som på videoen haha :-) hvad er forskellen egentlig på 10/10 12/12 el. SHA 13/13
Hej igen :-)
1. I standard blokken kan du montere alle 43 mm cylindre. Hele blokken skal fræses op hvis du vil have større på. Men en DR 43 mm gør det meget godt.
2. Det er diameteren, studsen kan max fræses til 13 mm, så tag en 13.13.
3. Du kan godt bruge standard topstykket, men plan det max 1 mm, ellers kommer dekompressions kanalen tæt på forbrændings kammeret.
Det er i småtings afdelingen, hvis du tilpasser overgangen til skyllekanalerne. Under en håndfuld km/t. Men ved sådan en tuning er der gemt en lille smule, forskellige steder. Tager man dem alle med, er summen ofte tydelig at mærke :-)
Hast du mal das Boostportfenster im Athena Kolben erweitert ? Ich wollte das machen, so 2 Milimeter nach links und rechts, ebenso nach unten. Ich habe nur etwas Sorge dass der Kolben im Betrieb brechen könnte...
Ja bei meinem 38er hab ich das gemacht, auf meiner Cross bravo. Und dazu noch die booster im Zylinder Fuß geöffnet. Die sind ja leider manchmal geschlossen bei den neueren.
og hvad med drev-hjul, der sidder originalt på 9,5 cm i diameter.... men skal vel ned i 6-7 cm ikk?... og med rem der passer til.... men kan man ikke osse skifte i den anden ende af drevet ved koblingen? hvis, skal den vel modsat være større i diameter? men passer remmen så?... altså hvis større diameter drev på kobling
Der findes en kobling med stor og lille remhjul. Det lille er mest udbredt. Dertil et 60-65 mm hjul bagerst. Har du den store kobling, så et 80 mm bagerst.
Til den lille kombination, mener jeg en ca 912 mm rem, til den store 962 mm. Hvis mine notater er korrekt.
Hi. Welche einlasszeit würdest du denn für einen Monobetrieb empfehlen? Habe mal gehört dass die für Mono nicht zu lang sein sollten. ;-)
Ich fahre 190 bei mono und vario. Ein guter Mittelwert für beides, dann kann mann auch besser hin und her wechseln 😉
Dank dir. Das versuche ich auch mal mit dr. ;-) der ist schon bissel tricky zu fräsen, oder!?
@@n.d.4378 Geduld und gutes Werkzeug 😉
@@CarstenLorenzen12V ach noch kurz, sorry! Warum sollte man nicht weiter als 18mm in den Einlass? Wenn man kein Durchbruch produziert und die drehschieberfläche nicht zerstört wird, könnte man die Übergänge doch noch bissel optimieren, oder muss der ansaugstutzen durchgängig 13mm haben? Danke nochmal für die super Anleitung.
@@n.d.4378 Der Einlass geht von zylindrisch bis Rechteck Trichter form. Da kann man nicht den ganzen Weg bohren, sonst bricht man seitlich raus.
20 mm tief geht auch noch 😉
Ce bn era daca vb română
Can I have a copy of that engine?😏😂
Yes just follow the instructions 😜
How much of a difference does the "new" inlet timing make?
Depends on what basis you have, there are restricted models, and others that already have over 160 degrees opening from the factory. Anything between 5-15 km/h.
Hello,
i have DR EVO, i make it like video and will it be great?
maybe some thought?
Yes, this guide works for all kinds of cylinders. I have an DR 43 mm engine also, and did it with the same calculations etc. Just follow every step carefully and you will have a very strong engine :)
THX
This is driving me crazy, what page of the Two Stroke tuning book by Graham Bell does it state that you can overlap the transfer open/close with the intake open/close by 10 degrees? I've reread the porting chapter 3 times and cannot find it.
If you have the "free" copy from the internet, the page is missing. Buy the book and it's included 😉 it's in the section about intakes, rotary valve.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V carsten I have a hard copy of the full book :) what page is it?
@@CarstenLorenzen12V I would presume it's somewhere in chapter 3, "porting and cylinder scavenging" right? There are no subheadings or subsections for intakes.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V I have the 2nd edition of "two stroke performance tuning" by A. Graham Bell.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V there is only one section where he even remotes touches on such a concept. On page 64 he says: "it is usual . . . To open the inlet port about 5 to 10 degrees before the transfer port closes"
Is this the part you're talking about?
Science !
i made a hole ... what do you fill it with .. thank you
Some two component epoxy liquid metal. There are lots of brands, like JB Weld, Loctite, Plastic Padding etc.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V thanks very much
I just bought a 75cc Malossi kit for the same engine as yours.
Do I need to change the crankshaft too?
I do need to mention that the stock crankshaft is in very good condition with no radial freeplay at all.
The original crankshaft is perfect, also for tuning. As long as there's no play and it runs straight. But you need to adapt the inlet timing like i did, or else you will not get full power. Beware that you need to mill the housing for the larger bore, all 43 mm kits fit on the stock engine. The larger 46-47 mm kits need to be enlarged for the cylinder skirts. The Malossi 75 cc is 46,5 mm.
Thanks for the reply!
I've milled the housing a few days ago, thanks for the heads up.
Regarding the crankshaft I don't have the courage to do what you've done. I am quite afraid that by doing this I will have to deal with strong vibrations at high RPM due to the fact that the crankshaft it's not balanced anymore. Some three experienced mechanics told me that I should change the crankshaft too, due to the increased power, otherwise it will brake in the first thousands miles.
I do need to mention that apart from the big bore kit I also changed the following :
- Delorto sha 13/13 carb
- Malossi spor air intake filter
- Giannelli Fire Sport exhaust
The original crank is one of the strongest on the market, together with the Mazzucchelli or maybe the Pinasco. And yes, you can get some vibrations. But you will experience this anyway because you change the piston from the original to the Malossi, that is part of the balancing calculation anyway.
There are good racing crankshafts on the market, Mazzucchelli and Pinasco have a model with larger inlet timing. I don't know if they have done anything to counter the changed weight.
If you have an engine case with ~160 stock timing, you can probably go pretty fast too, i've never done an A-B test on the same engine, so i can't tell you how much difference it will make.
The Giannelli Fire makes power in the upper RPM band, it would be good to have more inlet timing to match it.
What's the difference between anticipated and non-anticipated?
Considering all that was mentioned above, I've decided on buying a new crankshaft, but the Pinasco one is almost a hole 100$ more expensive than Mazzucchelli.
Pinasco:
www.ebay.com.my/itm/131116637408?ul_noapp=true
Mazzucchelli: www.ebay.com/itm/MAZZUCCHELLI-ALBERO-MOTORE-ANTICIPATO-PIAGGIO-CIAO-BRAVO-SI-SPINOTTO-10-5184-/282379166905?hash=item41bf1c24b9:g:d4cAAOSwTuJYtqB3&vxp=mtr
Is Pinasco worth almost 100$ more?
Just go with the Mazzucchelli, the one called AMT 004 for the 10 mm wrist pin. I don't know if thats the 5148 as they call it on ebay. But Anticipato means earlier/longer/advanced i think, so that must be the one with longer inlet timing.
I just checked the Mazzucchelli catalogue, the AMT 004 (racing version, 10 mm) is called "Anticipato". So it should be the right one. I've used the AMT 004 before, it's very nice and durable!
Catalogue: www.nuovamazzucchelli.com/alberi_motore/piaggio.pdf
Hei,
Nydelig video!
Har prøvd og porte blokken min etter beste evne
Har nett prøvekjørt min superbravo med polini racing 63cc cylinder kit, 13 sha malossi forgasser kit og mazzucchelli veiv. Har ikke skilt eller speedometer på den, men gikk godt. Det står nå Mallossi variator kit på den med gul fjer, og jeg har satt inn 10g variator ruller. Hva vil du anbefale av variator oppsett ? Vekt ? Fjør ?
Prøv med 7 gram, det burde passe ret godt :-)
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Takk så meget :D Jeg kjører med Giannelli standar eksos. Vil jeg merke noe særlig mer effekt med giannelli Fire ?
@@rjanvatsy1343 ca 5 km/t mere med Fire, men også en del mere larm.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Fikk prøvekjørt med Fire i dag og 7 gram. klarte rundt 65km/t på flaten. På vei hjem igjen blei motor for høyt belaste og stoppet (for varm) Kjørte med et ødlagt vifte hus. Startet og gikk fint etter på. Noe som går ann og gjøre for å forbedre kjøling ?
@@rjanvatsy1343 jeg har ingen problem med kølingen, når køle skjoldene er i orden.
Hvad dyse og luftfilter kører du med?
Hei! ødlegger man noe hvis en borer mer en 1,8 cm inn i innsuget?Veldig bra video
18 mm er på den sikre side, ved de fleste blokke kan man godt bore 20 mm. Borer du for langt, bliver den utæt til siderne, da indsugningen bliver smallere på det sted. Tak :)
Ok, da er jeg redd at jeg har boret for langt🙈 den ville ikke starte etterpå, må jeg bare få tak i ny blokk/veivhus? Har satt på Malossi trimmsett+forgasser å variator kitt fra malossi. Men etter fresing i innsug å kanaler i blokka ville den ikke starte😭
En nem test, tag motor og karburator af. Drej krumtappen så den spærrer for indsugningen. Pust i indsugningen, det skal være svært at puste luft forbi krumtappen. Der skal være en del modstand, men forvent ikke at den er helt lufttæt.
ok ,kjempe bra. da skal jeg prøve det når jeg for montert sammen motoren igjen. har akkurat frest på veiv for åpning/stenging.
Tusen takk for hjelpen, super bra (kanskje du hører fra meg igjen hvis jeg for problemer:)
Hei! Nå starter den, men det går ikke i mer en 35km/t🙈 har du noen idé på det? Er det noe blombe eller sperre?
I want to put turn signals on my ciao 2 coil 6v moped. I suppose I would need to put a battery and turn the thing into a 12v system. Is it doable?
There are models that have this from stock, with and added coil that goes over each half of the ignition and light coil. I've never worked with this, as we have no blinker models here in denmark. Try to search the net, maybe it's easiest to get a complete set with miniature battery/capacitor and blinker relay.
@@CarstenLorenzen12V Thanks for your reply Carsten
I did the same as you did but now I have no compression. What should I do now?🤔
Malossi cylinder 43mm
No compression where? In the combustion chamber? You need to check for leaks, gaskets, piston rings, decompression valve etc.
Carsten Lorenzen
How should I check these things.
I have a new piston with new piston rings and a new gasket. But an old decompression valve. What else could it be?