This works with lizards too. I had a full grown iguana that came to me very aggressive. After a couple months trying to mellow him out and getting bit and tail whipped, I just decided to leave his cage open and not pay any attention to him. After a couple months he started wandering around the house. Still paid him no attention. Get up occasionally and just walk by him. He'd get all puffed up, but that subsided after a while. After about six months of that he started sunning himself on the back of my easy chair. We became buds, and he started crawling down my arm to investigate what was on my dinner plate, sometimes helping himself. I never knew how old he was, but I think he eventually passed from old age. I used to run around town in my van and he loved to hang out on the dash, became a local celebrity for awhile. Good memories. Miss my old friend, Gordo.
Hopefully more people start treating reptiles like true companions and not just a hobby or collection like many people unfortunately do. They may not have quite the emotional range that mammals like cats and dogs do but, they're still intelligent animals and they deserve much better than the negative stereotypes they get. My oldest snake, a 14 year-old boa, I've had since he was two weeks old. Love him to death. He'll actually crawl out of his enclosure and onto me if I open it and just let him do his thing. He likes to drape himself around my shoulders and just sniff around and explore. He pays no mind to anything I'm doing, and has never bitten or struck at anyone. He can even recognize when I'm putting him back in his enclosure and he tries to crawl back out unless he's decided he's had enough time exploring and he just wants to go back into his hide. He also learned that he can get my attention by knocking stuff around in his enclosure to make noise. I remember he once woke me up in the middle of the night and just crawled onto me and went back to sleep. I don't really care if people try to say they're emotionless animals - I don't see it that way, and I love my noodles.
I think people make a mistake with snakes. Do they need social interaction to thrive? Except for a few social species like garter snakes, no --but basic emotions of enjoyment, trust, anxiety/fear, and aggression are all emotions that snakes very much seem to have (in fact, they are useful for survival in the wild!). Even bees were shown in a study to play for fun, indicating that they do things for enjoyment. I hope more people are willing to begin seeing that just because they have different needs doesn't mean that they don't enjoy their time with humans, if they associate those humans with good times.
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for! A lot of people just don’t respect their snake’s (or other reptile’s) emotions, instead taking them by ‘pushing through’ their fear. But that always rubbed me the wrong way. It’s so great to see someone actually implementing and validating these ideas!
This is perfect. This is the first time I have ever seen someone break this process down into practical steps.Your video makes the whole process understandable and approachable. Thank you so much - I'll be sharing this a lot, as I get lots of questions about it. And thank you for including my photos of a few of the wonderful snakes I have been working with based on your suggestions! The techniques you've taught me have vastly improved quality of life for my snakes, and have transformed the ways I spend time with them in very positive ways. Also, be sure to thank your husband for being such a great model/actor!
First time snake owner and I am proud to say most of the goes in this is what I did with my boy without knowing it. It's very easy to pick up on his body language. Today he was more antsy and not in a super social mood. I know it's bc he's hungry as he gets fed every week and this was a day before feeding. So I didn't handle him too long.
This is a great video thank you. As a family we are new reptile keepers with a corn snake, royal python plus a leopard gecko and day gecko and I have always felt uncomfortable about removing them from their enclosure against their will. Our corn snake at first was very nervous and as my daughters pet I wanted her to see and and handle so would remove hides etc and disturb her from the enclosure. It was the same for our Leo, my son wants to hold him so therefore I must remove him. Of recent weeks I have started to change my behaviour in that handling happens only when the animal wants to come out of the enclosure. Our Royal seems to just come out when she wants, we open the viv door and she is out but it has been taking time for our corn and leo to adapt to this way of engagement. The video has given us some great tips and last night my daughters corn came out, on her own accord to explore the table her enclosure is on. We had to intervene as she was about to escape behind the back but when a hand offered she investigated and climbed up my daughters arm. All tips from your video. Thanks again and looking forward to seeing how you get on with your new corn snakes.
Dave Allan Thank you, I’m so happy to hear this and know it’s helping! There are ways to do more active habituation with super shy snakes to encourage them to come out without being intrusive. It’s on my lists of videos to do!
I cannot express how happy I am I found this video. I am a first time snake owner with a beautiful little snake that I was prepared to go almost completely hands-off on. I have been taught to always respect animals and to never force interaction on them (unless absolutely necessary). But every video on how to "tame" or get your snake used to handling just absolutely obliterates this idea. So, as a beginner, I thought that hey maybe I need to go about this different than with mammals or birds. But oh no one talked about the difference in behaviour after handling. There was no doubt that my little guy would take some time before he would be comfortable being out and about if I was visible. I once lifted a hide he was in, and he never used it again (so I never did that again. Still feel awful about it). But after just a week of hands-off, he will be back to curiously investigating what I'm fixing in the terrarium or lay and observe me while I'm walking about the room. So I had my mind set on not handling him, unless necessary. I want him to feel safe, curious and brave around me. Now I finally have an approach that actually feels good. And maybe he will never come to the handling part, I think every successful step here is wonderful. Thank you so much for your content, you have a new subscriber❤
I am really happy to read this! It sounds like you had good intuition to begin with regarding how to considerately raise your snake. Be sure to watch the gradual desensitization playlist of videos as well, they are along these same line. Lori
Step by step and so easy for people to understand how the process is. Lori this was truly a wonderful video and if people follow your suggestions they will improve everything for their snakes to live a comfortable life with their human. When mine first started coming to the door by their own choice, l was over the moon, l knew l had been doing the right thing by them. Thanks for the great video Lori, very educational for people.
Thank you for this informative video! I have a very shy corn snake with whom I would like to implement this. Since she is only two and will hopefully remain in my care for many years to come, I can afford to be patient with her. I am also thinking of introducing target training. Anyway, great content- I am looking forward to future updates on this channel!
I found your channel after listening to your talk with Dillon on The Animals at Home podcast. This video is superb! Excellent advice. Your carpets are gorgeous, as is the bredli and corn snake. I look forward too watching more!
Wonderful 😊💞 I hate how people put snakes in plastic boxes like being buried alive and expect the animal to be completely sane.... I believe that the poor snakes go insane in those plastic boxes and drawers .. I think that's horrible... I'm so glad that I found your videos because you confirmed what I have always believed... Snakes are intelligent 🤓💯❤️ I have two ball pythons and I love them 💞💯
I printed out a mini version of the behavior chart to put on my snake's tub! Also going to start training soon, once I received and put my young python into a suitable environment, he livened up and his overactive feeding response started to show.
I've got a very flighty and defensive king snake that I bought in April, who remains buried in his substrate 90% of the time. His previous owners didn't handle him much at all, and he urinates and defecates on me whenever I try to handle him. I hate how much handling stresses him out and I'm really hoping that adopting this style of handling will make the difference. Even steps 1 and 2 are gonna take a long time, unfortunately. His enclosure is in my office, which is a generally quiet room that I'm in often, but he tends to hide once he notices that I've spotted him out of the soil. Thankfully he's in a bioactive enclosure, so I don't have to stress him out with a full scrub down and sanitization every few weeks.
That’s too bad, changing your approach now will still work over time. You’re correct it will be a longer process but we’ll worth it down the road. If you haven’t already watched the gradual desensitization videos those may help you as well.
Just came across your channel and I absolutely love the respect and understanding you clearly have for your animals. I'm getting my first snake since having some when I was very young. I'm getting a western/plains hognose, and many of your videos including the center stage on hognoses has helped ease my mind on many questions I've seen mixed answers on. 👍🇨🇦👍
Very well put together video, with excellent demonstrations for each step. Thank you! As a point of interest, I have recently purchased a Stimsons python after being a bird owner for years. It's my first reptile. I found myself already using some of these steps, since I approached snake handling as if it were a bird; You can't grab a parrot, they must decide to be handled. Anyhow, great content.
Hi Lori! Thanks so much for all the informative content you generously share with the public. I'm wondering if Step 3 works for snakes in top-opening enclosures and how the method may change if using something like that?
Hello! I recently got my first ever corn snake. She’s 6 months and I have her in a 40 gallon. I have done TONS of research, and unfortunately have been misguided by large groups of reptile keepers. I held my snake for the first time the other day. They told me to just find her and confidently scoop her up. I tried, and she ran, and I caught her. They told me to hold her until she gets relaxed, to which I did. But I believe the “relaxing” may have been flooding. I haven’t handled her again. I also made sure she wasn’t handled for a week and a half before I handled her. I think I really scared her. Most people say that she will be fine and to not anthropomorphize her by seemingly giving her human emotion. They say to do it again at least twice a week. Im at a loss. Did I just ruin all hope for stress-free handling that one time? She runs when she sees me but I’ve had her for almost 3 weeks now. Can I simply restart, or did I just cause irreversible damage to our relationship? I may have this snake for 25 years. What if I just ruined everything?
You can start over with choice-based interactions and no flooding! It’s a set back so it may take longer for her to trust you now but as you said, she will be with you a long time so there is no hurry. I will link some gradual desensitization videos for you.
Amazing video thank you! I was wondering how to approach this with noctural snakes? (I have a Stimson's Python), as she doesn't move as much in the daytime.
I have several clients with Antaresia and have two myself. Mine are actually pretty active anytime I’m around their enclosure but that may be because they are associating me with things they like. I do work with species who are primarily only awake and active at night and so that is when I work with them. I work with all of the animals on their schedule, when it is normal for them to be awake and active. Many adapt their wake periods over time to earlier or later depending on when they start to notice we are around. That is if they associate people with something good. If they have poor associations with people they will hide more or retreat when people are around.
Thank you Lori for replying! I’ve been following your steps and Pretzel is now more active during the day which I’m hoping is a positive association! We don’t disturb her now unless she is active and we’ve had some great results with her handling. Thank you so much for your amazing videos and for responding.
Hi Lori, it's really amazing the work you do and I greatly appreciate all your help you give us newbies.. I've been following your channel and must have seen most of the videos... I have a 10mo corn snake I got 4 months back..first month and a half I've been handling him often based on the advice from other forums that more you handle they'll learn to tolerate and become more interactive eventually..I had my doubts but followed the advice..he was always flighty and defensive...when I came across your channel and FB Adv husbandry group 2 months ago.. started following the passive habituation and target training...I need some advice or even encouragement.. He has been hiding even more... Comes out after lights are out at night...I really miss interacting with him..I haven't held him for past two months now.. please help 😊
Behavior following events is telling. If a snake (or many other animals) have found prior experiences aversive they will hide more after and exhibit increased avoidance behavior in an attempt to prevent from experiencing the events of the past (in this case forced handling). Be patient and start from square one with passive habituation, gradual desensitization, and consider target training or puzzle feeding to build his confidence. Since there are prior bad experiences with you from the snake’s perspective it will take longer to work up to him remaining visible in your presence and eventually allowing contact than if things had been different from the beginning. Just relax and have no expectations. Things will change over time if you stick to least intrusive principles and work to build positive associations.
I wish there was a channel like this, but for crested geckos. Anyone have any recommendations? I love this channel all the same, since I plan on one day keeping a snake, at least one.
You can apply the same training methods and many of the enrichment ideas to your Geckos. Here is an article you might enjoy. journal.iaabcfoundation.org/gecko-enrichment/#:~:text=Food%2DBased%20enrichment,out%2C%20leading%20to%20hunting%20behaviour.
Would this still work for smaller/faster species of snakes? I feel like many types of snakes would be able to quickly get in places you don't want them. Not all of them explore so slowly.
When working with species small and flighty, I use a safe containment area. I may place them in a large box or cloth exercise pen for dogs or a tent, something where they can be free of their enclosure or shift box but still safely contained and not loose in the entire room. If their entire enclosure (for small snakes) can be placed into a safe exercise area then you can proceed by opening the door as is shown here, if not, then I generally wait for them to be inside a hide with a bottom or something they have learned through prior association is a transport box from their habitat to the exercise space and move the box with them inside it.
How would this work for a skittish snake that doesn't really come out much? I've been working with her and she's gotten better but I think she would greatly benefit from this process. She's just terrified of everything. She can be fast though too so I worry about her getting away from me lol
Yes and if you haven’t already, watch this video on gradually desensitizing a snake to your presence and proximity. ua-cam.com/video/GWQCO7bMN8s/v-deo.html
How would you do that if the enclosure is front opening (sliding doors) and about 1m above the ground? I would be scared that the snake gets hurt if it goes out of the enclosure...
Do you mean having them shift out or come out on their own? It is actually much easier to do with sliding doors and a front opening enclosure. I have so many videos showing snakes doing this behavior, just look through some of the videos about shifting or stationing, or about activity stations and stands. You can just put a stand, platform, ladder, or anything adjacent to the enclosure opening for them to shift out onto. I showed a video recently of a snake shifting out onto an activity station from about 1.5 m up.
I picked up my new ball python from an expo on Saturday and noticed Wednesday he's got a respiratory infection. Took him to the vet Friday morning. Now he needs another shot Monday and next Friday. His enclosure is a top opening 20G long in the upper half of my Tarantula shelf. Three sides of his terrarium are blacked out. Protected also by plexiglass doors from my dogs and cats. I wish i could practice what this video tells me to do.
It is easier in a front opening terrarium but I have playlist about how to work with your snake if they live in a top opening enclosure. Get him through this medical crisis and then let him settle and start with the choice-based interactions.
@LoriTorrini thank you! I just subscribed to you yesterday after Bob from the Green Room mentioned you several times and I'm already addicted to your videos! I'm gonna try to build my own snake target stick. Pet stores around me don't sell them
This video is cool. I have one snake that I think already enjoys handling. She acts like she wants to come out. So I get her out and then when I put her back she doesn't want to go off my hand. If I try to put her on the floor she won't go...
I love this! I wonder if it would still work well with an already socialized snake? Ive had my ball python for 6 years but this past week he bit me pretty bad during feeding, so im being extra careful and id like to start implementing more choice handling. Any advice on starting this when hea already comfortable with touch and handling?
@@raydawson8236 I start every snake that arrives here this way whether it’s has been previously habituated to handling or not. We take in many species with different backgrounds and of different ages and we just start from scratch with them.
@@LoriTorrini good to know! I'll be moving soon, so I'm going to try to have a room suitable to start choice handling with him. I do have a tank that slides open from the top, rather than the side- have you noticed any difference in success with different tank types?
What's a good way to do this when you have cats and s small dog? Specifically the showing them to explore? Right now my girl is in quarantine in my bedroom, so I can work in the first pieces, but unsure about exploring outside until she's clear from quarantine?
Do you intend to have her explore other rooms? I don't allow cats and snakes to be free in the same room together so I will make sure they are in separate rooms with the doors closed. I would close your cats out of the room your snake is in now, if she is out free roaming or you're working on choice-based interactions or training. If you get to the point of allowing your snake to explore other rooms, I would put the cats in a separate room where you can close them in. Be sure to make this a good experience for the cats, a time when they get a special treat, toy, enrichment experience or their favorite food so the cats don't view this as aversive. As for the dogs, mine have learned to ignore the snake and leave them alone and the snakes do the same with the dogs but I am guessing this will depend on your individual animals so it may be that when your snake if free roaming your dogs are engage in another activity away from them, make sure it is something they like!
The cats don't have access to the quarantine room at all, neither dies the dog. I hadn't previously thought about allowing free roaming, but your videos have made it very appealing to ensure she can choose her time out. I'm thinking I'll get a pet play pen and a transition (shift?) box and work on that. I loved the target training video tok and her first feed day with me is tomorrow so will be trying that. Do you have a video about the shift box?
Yes. It’s posted as a photo on my website homepage but I’m happy to send you the electronic file via email or social media messenger. BehaviorEducation.org Or BehaviorEducationLLC@gmail.com
You are so great! Thanks for doing this. Wish we found you before we bought our snake babies! Off topic: you are super cute! Love your glasses 🥰 We have one naturally curious sweet snake, and one cranky boy. We would love some help with him. How do we become a client?
@@RacksandRoyals Thank you. I offer group and private training and consultations locally and remotely worldwide through www.Patreon.com/BehaviorEducation
This video helped me alot! I am just worried, cause I have cats, so I cant let my snake roam very freely. Should i try moving her to a different room where the cats can't go? There wont be that much activity though, atm her enclosure is in the living room, it would be a separate room then... I am really not sure how to do this the best way.
I have a couple of videos about managing cats and snakes. I usually put the cats in a separate room when I’m working with the snakes or once the snakes are shifting out I put them into or have them go into a safe place space like an exercise tent or room.
As much as I want this to work on my ball python, I am rather discouraged :/ . I think I made a few handling and trust mistakea with him at the beginning and now he is a shy and reclusive snake. When I first got him he tried to come to the glass but I didn't let him out because I thought he wanted go escape and I was afraid it would be too cold outside. Now he almost never wants to come out anymore. And when I have to remove him he is so angsty and flighty. And when he is on my hands the slightest movement of my arm and fingers frighten him and he tries to get away from me fast. If I sit in front of the enclosure he never comes out, only puts his head out slightly. I feel like he is completely afraid of me and I don't deny it might be because I made mistakes. But now I am not sure he can learn new behaviours and change. He is 7 month old now. Can you give me hope in any way that this is worth the time and effort and if this can work on a ball python?
I understand. One of the Royals we work with here is exactly the same way. He arrived at an older age, about 8-9 months old and had aversive handling prior to arrival. He is exactly as you describe and we are working on ways to help him. He has learned the first few steps of target training and will come out of his hide with with his head and the first few inches of his neck to approach the target and earn a food reinforcer. This is as far as we’ve gotten with him so far. Please email me if you want it brainstorm further or consider joining our Patreon Community for one on one coaching or group discussions. BehaviorEducationLLC@gmail.com Patreon.com/BehaviorEducation
My youngest is only two months, my second is ten months, so choice based handling is not something I've tried. However I do spend plenty of time with them in their spaces so they get the opportunity to figure me out before I pick them up. I never lunge in and grab them directly. They're a little nervous when I approach the space, but when I'm in there they have time to adjust before I pick them up. They're doing very well, and have always ended on a positive note. When they're older, I'll wait for them to come to me.
Choice -based interactions are something g you can start at any age, the younger the better. In fact young snakes are usually feel threatened more easily than older ones and demonstrating to them that you’re not going to force yourself on them is an important part of building trust. Choice-based ideally should start from the time the snakes are hatched to develop trust and clear communication with the babies which results in trusting adults.
@@LoriTorrini I do incorporate a lot of patience before handling, they have the choice to come onto my hands, and they get to come out if they do. They're doing fantastically and are nice and relaxed when held. I've never been bitten, pooped on or musked. But leaving the tank open for them to roam around at this age gives me huge anxiety, especially as they can get under the door, and I have cats.
I have 2 cornsnakes, but they where already 7 years old when i got them half a year ago, is it possible to learn this with older snakes like mine? Or is it something that has to be done from a younger age? If possible i would like to give this a try 👌
Any age! I have started target training much older snakes, including a 10 year old cornsnake who caught on very quickly. Choice-based interactions are how we manage all of our snakes of all ages when possible.
My scaless corn is almost 2 years old, and all she does is hide and on the rare occasion switch hides, at this time I feed her every 10 days. So id like to get her to come out more and to do this I want to build her confidence and also want to be handled. Up until this moment Ive done everything force based. Catching her going between hides is almost impossible so there is little opportunity to engage with choice based handling, so that just leaves target training, should I feed her more often to enforce training? Ive taken her hide with a bottom out a few times and set up in a play pen and on a desk and shes never even looked out, but these are also at times when she doesn't come out anyway. Id like to do some more training but I feel like there is little opportunity to do it.
You’re going to need to start from scratch if you’ve already been doing things force based. You will need to earn her trust and confidence. Snakes don’t like or want to be handled so that’s the last thing you will work on down the road after she trusts that you’re not going to force handling on her. The more you do that the more the will hide and the less they will come out when you’re around. Training revolves around their normal feeds if you’re using food reinforcers. You don’t feed more food or more often as that would be unhealthy. You’re going to have to let you passively habituate to your presence until she learns you’re not going to intrude into her space or force handling and eventually she should remain visible more. Watch the video that I just put out that follows up with some Choice-Based Handling tips and how to proceed with Approach and Retreat work once she’s visible.
@@LoriTorrini Thanks Lori, I will work on some puzzle feeding to build confidence and wait for her to build some confidence to come out on her own. Love the channel! Live Long and Prosper!
Hi.any tips for a 11 weeks boa imperator super shy.i took her out twice in 3 weeks.took her time to find the hot,like a lot of babys she stuck on the high ground I made for her (had to took it out) to « force her to use the hot spot but now she never move from it.she’s never aggressive but very scared...great job,great vid which confort me into some options I decided to take.take care.
maria callas I have run into this behavior with Boas before. I am working with one very shy individual boa now and target training has worked wonders to build his confidence. After 3 months of target training he will now target out of hiding and all the way out of his enclosure to receive his food reward. That’s a big step so that now, I can start more active habituation with him through limited, short handling and other exercises. He just drank and defecated for the first time. This species can be very shy and you have to be very careful to make experiences positive and not scary; and, take your time. She’s only 11 weeks and will hopefully be with you 20-30 years so you have plenty of time. There is no hurry. Take the time now to ensure a good relationship down the road.
maria callas I should have added that I started simply pairing the target with food inside the enclosure and then targeting him little by little within the enclosure and then to the edge, etc. over the past few months. It doesn’t happen overnight.
can this be done with any type of snake ? I just got a 2 months year old baby white sided rat snake a month ago and hes very defensive, aggressive, hisses and bites and hides all the time. I dont know what to do :(
Yes. I responded to your other comment as well. Behavior science and the laws of learning don’t change based on species, how you apply them may be individualized for your animal. I would stick to choice-based interactions and start target training and/or puzzle feeding. We have a couple of snakes who have started out as you describe, with time and patience they learn to be more confident and less fearful.
Thank you for your response. As of now I built him a park with trees and leaves and stuff and we have recreation time. Thank you for your work, you are amazing.@@LoriTorrini
They climb. Fill the vertical space with furnishings to help. I have a playlist with videos of snakes and top opening enclosures. You can find it here: ua-cam.com/play/PLNbZzsRecQ2bzb2j3mcaCGn88mohJAugN.html
Hello! I recently discovered this video and love the idea of it. I’m a new snake owner and have a plains Hognose snake. I’ve been doing the normal way of handling (I just scoop him up). Does choice based work with Hognose snakes as well? I’ve been handling him regularly since I’ve had him but I feel bad just reaching in there. He always seems uncomfortable with it.
Yes. We worked with a Hognose snake for 5 years using only choice-based interactions and target training. She recently passed away from cancer. ua-cam.com/video/SBpDnt_0pHY/v-deo.htmlsi=j4O3vFRMEmOEalZy
Thanks for the response. Sorry about your loss. I’m definitely considering doing this with my Hognose. Would you say target training is necessary? I just drop feed him now because feeding tongs terrify him.
I have a juvenile dumeril's boa who associates everything that moves with food. I tried the foot thing but as soon as moved my foot it became a prey item for him. Do you have any other recommendations because he's coming out to explore fine
I would use a cue to indicate when he IS going to be fed. I e used a specific target for this with several snake just to signal food. They never get fed unless they see the target first and so it has calmed inappropriate feeding responses at other times.
@@LoriTorrini oh my gosh thank you so much I will try this his first target feeding was last week and he struck at it like yours did in your python vs boa part 2 video. He's very eager
@@mrslapp9614 Pair the target directly with food the first few sessions and give him no opportunity to strike directly at the target, only the food in from of it. I have a troubleshooting guide I can email to you if you contact me via BehaviorEducationLLc@gmail.com
Thank you for this! We have a new baby ball python and are totally new snake owners -- this s a great blueprint for positive interactions! How do you handle things like enclosure cleaning where you *have* to handle them, sometimes against their will? (also, hello fellow Trek fan!! B'Elanna's lovely, and I saw a Lyta and a Tilly there too.
Thank you! Enclosure cleaning is something you don’t have to handle your snake to do. Unless there is a medical emergency or exigent circumstances like a sudden evacuation, you don’t need to ever hands your snake. It’s nice to be able to but not necessary. Enclosure disturbances are stressful so it’s best to spot clean or clean part at a time so familiar scents are always present. If the snake is in a hide I just cover the entrance while I clean around it or remove the whole hide with the snake in it and then put it back when done cleaning. Once the snake is coming out on their own or trained to shift out on cue, you can ask them to come out or wait until they come out to clean. I have videos about how to manage this as well as about studies showing that it is distressing to disturb their enclosures and clean too much too often. Yes, I’m a big Star Trek fan!
@@LoriTorrini Oh my gosh, thank you for replying! We're trying to do right by our little girl but there's so much info out there and a lot of it seems to conflict. We're going to have to take her out of the tank in the next few days -- we got some bad advice from the breeder we bought her from and are changing substrates. It'll be the first time we've handled her since we got her a week and a half ago, we've been trying to leave her alone and give her room to settle in, but her humidity isn't staying near high enough and this is the last thing we can think of to try and bump it up. She's been chilling in her coconut hide for the last few days (I think she comes out quite late at night), so I'll try gently taking her and the hide out at once and hopefully not giving her too big a scare. We haven't done any sort of habituation so she's still kind of nervous of us. I'm checking out some of your other videos on the topic of humidity, but I'm curious: what substrate/substrate mix do you use for your BPs in particular? We've been looking at coco coir plus a layer of coco husk or repti bark, maybe.
@@LoriTorrini great, thank you! I will search for the videos. I have a 6-month-old that I would love to start this with now that she has been settled in for a few months and eating great. She is not a fan of being pulled out of her egg to be socialized, but she is very sweet. Love your techniques! They are fantastic!
I stupidly thought I was chased by water snakes while kayaking and posted about it on Reddit. Ever since I've gone down a snake rabbithole and just found you lol I'm still sooooooo icked out by them. I saw a GIGANTIC garter snake on my walk today and it freaked me out! It was brown and spotted and didnt look like a young yellowish garter (you can tell i know nothing about this 😂). You snake enthusiasts are making me appreciate snakes and i want to try to stop being grossed out. They're really beautiful, but just so slithery- the thought of one slithering my ankles 🤮 i want to conquer this fear tho!!! Maybe my first step is to get comfortable picking up a baby garter Anyways, sorry for my rant just wanna say you snake people are cool. And I love the nerd lanyard! Nerds are my peoples Edit: im in MN, USA
I’m glad you’re learning from the content. Snakes are actually not slimy-feeling amphibians are as they have moist skin, but snakes and other reptiles are not. Their skin is dry.
I am at the point where he comes out when given the chance and readily explores the table where the enclosure is on. He does not mind me as long I don't do any hectic movements. My only concerns is he may fall down from the table and I am not sure if a fall from a ordinary kitchen table would do harm so I better redirect him.
You can place soemthing adjacent to the table as another step down from the table level or if you are watching him you can place your hands a few inches below him so that he falls into your hands if he loses his balance. That can be a good way to build trust, if you catch him when he falls and then set him down in a safe spot.
It depends on the individual snake. It could be a few days or weeks for a confident, well started Animal to several months or even years for an extremely shy and fearful animal or one with prior aversive experiences with humans.
Hello! 👋🏻 I consider to get myself a ball python, as I love reptiles since I was young. I love Your video, but have two questions: 1. How often should I do those sessions? Once a day, once a week? Is it the same with stages 1 and 2? 2. Do You think it would be safe to introduce to pet store snake (I want to apply to pet store and they have a snake there), of course after the acceptation of the staff? Or is it recommended only for snakes held as pets in home? (I mean introduction to handling, as letting them roam around could be seen as a hazard in the store)
Have you thoroughly researched what species of snake is best suited for your lifestyle, your expectation of it, and what you would like to do with it? Royal Pythons usually do not meet the expectations of the typical person who wants a snake for a pet. I consult on this often and when people fill out my survey they usually indicate they want a snake that is active, visible, doesn't hide a lot, and doesn't require meticulous environmental parameters. Python regius are the opposite of this. They are usually inactive, hide most of the time, and are visible usually at night and not during the day or evening. Whatever snake you decide on, please make sure you watch the Gradual Desensitization video which is a great start to choice-based handling and interactions. The snake will choose when the sessions are and how often because you should be doing this when they are naturally awake and visible. For Royal Pythons this is usually during the night. I am participating in a Royal Python behavior study now and so far the snakes have been active for a couple of hours in the middle of the night, between about 11pm and 1am, hiding all day and not visible during the day.
@@LoriTorrini thanks for responding! I've heard they are okay for beginners and I get gradually more busy with my life. I've also seen pics of ball pythons/python regius on Reddit, interacting with their owners. Actually they recommend Your videos for learning choice-based snake care and handling. I am aware that they are mostly nocturnal snakes. But I am curious about the survey. Can I access it somehow? Is it paid?
Hi Lori, I have some questions. So last night once my 10mo male BP was awake, I took the lid off, then stepped away for a sec, then I took his hide off and he bluff struck at me. After about 4 strikes I was able to distract him with one hand and grab him with the other. We spent a good, soothing hour together after that. He is very cage territorial. He’s never struck at me the 5-6 months I’ve had him! It was a sudden change in behavior. The only new thing that has changed is my girl is now in a viv next to him. Plus, last feeding I went 8 or 9 days instead of 7. I’ll stick to 7. The husbandry is perfect! Anyways, how can I make grabbing him out of his cage less stressful for him? He hissed and huffed and puffed for as I removed him. His behavior changed instantly once he was in my hands!!Around the 30 minute mark he finally relaxed his entire body. I purchased a snake hook to pet him with before grabbing, and I hope it helps. Other than that, what steps can I take to ease the process? Thank you so much again 🙏💛🐍
Jordan, Why did you remove his hide? I don’t recommend removing snakes from their hides or removing the hide from them unless it is an emergency. It is intrusive and if they’re hiding they are choosing not to engage with the outside environment. Wait until he is out of his hide on his own, visible and alert; then, open his enclosure and give him the opportunity to come out, do not reach in and grab him. Reaching in and grabbing them is intrusive and most snakes find that aversive. Choice-based handing and cooperative care uses the Least Intrusive Minimally Aversive methods to work with animals. Everything you described was force-based and intrusive. Striking is an escalation in behavior because other attempts to communicate that he wants to be left alone or finds your interactions aversive have been ignored. Usually the more the snake’s are removed from hiding and subjected to forced-handling, the more they will hide, attempt to get away, or begin more aggressive behavior to remove the aversive stimulus/perceived threat (in this case your hands). Allow the snake to choose when he comes out, forced handling will only cause his behavior to get worse or eventually produce a state of subjective helplessness in him. Please let me know if there is something you don’t understand or if this has generated more questions. Lori
Lori, do you have any recommendations for transitioning between passive and more active habituation? I've been working with a re-homed adult rosy boa for the past several months. When he's visible and active, I can sit on the floor about six feet from the enclosure and he will continue slowly exploring, but if I even look in his general direction he will freeze and won't move until I re-direct my attention away from him. We are also working on target training but that has been slow to start since he only eats every two or three weeks. Is it just a matter of time for him to become more confident with me in general, or is there anything I can do to help him realize that not only am I a non-threatening presence, but that looking at him, or having my attention focused on him, is non-threatening as well?
Time, patience, and then you could try foraging exercises inside the enclosure. Sometimes they will become so engaged in searching for their food and getting to it that they don’t worry about you being there and you’re able to slowly get closer while they engage in the activity.
@@LoriTorrini One additional question, if you'll indulge me. If a snake exits the enclosure and explores, but then does not choose to return to their enclosure after an extended time, then obviously the snake will need to be moved back. Even doing so with minimal handling, doesn't this form a negative association for the snake? Not only are you stopping them from exploring, but you're handling them (even if very gently/very briefly). If a snake is still fearful of the human (but willing to explore) then couldn't even that little bit of handling make the association that people = scary?
Yes. If a snake is not comfortable and relaxed with handling, then picking them up to put them away can end up being a distressing event. If a snake is on the extreme shy/fearful end of the temperament spectrum or has not habituated to at least tolerating minimal handling, I recommend exercise time be in a contained environment that the snake may be left in long term and wait for them to go into a shift box (hide with a bottom) that you can pick up and place inside their enclosure without actually handling them, or, you can pick an object up that they are on like a rock, log, perch, box, etc., and place the entire object inside the enclosure with them. You can remove shift boxes or objects from the enclosure later, once the snake has moved away from them. Once a snake is comfortable and relaxed or at least tolerant of some handling you can practice periodically putting them away but not closing the door, so that they can come right back out if they want. If they get used to that, it can minimize the aversive association when you must put them away and close the door. Unfortunately, no matter what we do, these animals are captives. We have taken away their freedom by bringing them into our homes and while we can try to minimize force and offer as much choice as possible, they are still in captivity. Sadly, they will never truly be free and will be subjected to control by humans to keep them and others in the household safe under captive management. All we can do is try to reduce aversive experiences as much as we can, allow as much choice and control as is safe, create environments that increase perceived control, and minimize force to keep distress down. It is not a force-free or stress-free world. We want to help them build resiliency to these things when they must experience them, even at low levels and keep the levels of force and stress low.
I’m not able to move my snake into a more trafficked area yet because her current enclosure is not cat proof. Is this something I can work on with her in my craft room as she is? I sit near her and do crafts most evenings and she is often out and about just a few feet away from me. (Texas rat snake)
I do plan to update her enclosure as she grows but she’s currently quite small and in a 40 gallon tank so it will be a year or so before I move her into her adult home.
You can do the choice-based interactions and gradual desensitization wherever she is located. Just spend more time in that room and take your work from other area of the house in there. It is no problem. It sounds like you're already doing that in the evenings.
I recommend doing this the second the snake is with you, the sooner the better. The younger they are when you start training them and habituating them through gradual desensitization the better they will adapt to life as a family member.
@@LoriTorrini thanks so much for the advice! I want to get a bredli python very soon so im super excited to get him and start getting to know eachother.
@@chronick3137 Bredl’s Pythons are my favorite snake species and I work with 34 of them here. They do so well with choice-based handling and target training. Where are you getting yours from and is it a normal or a variant?
@@LoriTorrini I live in NSW in Australia im planning on getting it from a very well known pet shop that has a massive range of reptiles to choose from. I wanted to get a male preferably a hypo.
@@chronick3137 Excellent. In my experience with ours here the stonewashed have the naturally best temperaments and the hypos tend to be reactive at first but with time and patience become more confident. Normals are pretty confident and some have great temperament but there are a couple of lines here in the States that tend to bite until they’re worked with.
Bird Shen Sometimes you can just relocate them safely within the room and allow more exploration and then finally put them away. This way they don’t think every time you pick them up they’re going back. Mix it up.
Hey, what if your enclosure is too high and you cant allow them to leave on their own terms, what is the next step to take in training? I'm trying this with a blue tongue skink. Thanks
I have many enclosures taller than me and have demonstrated various solutions for this. Ladders, rolling stands, attachments to the exterior of the enclosure for the reptile to climb out onto, etc. it’s no problem. I will link at least one here for you. ua-cam.com/video/OJzedC8MBXU/v-deo.html
@@catshietbud You can try that and see how the snake responds. This works really well for some snakes and it causes distress for others and so you need to assess how your particular snake handles it.
My snake is pretty much always in hide, I have her about 2 weeks, I want to stay near her tank to make her used to me but she's never out, Should I wait more?
Yes. You do not want to disturb her when she’s hiding. Intruding will only cause her to hide more or find a new hiding spot. 2 weeks is nothing time wise for a snake. They can take months or years to acclimate depending on their age and how shy they are or not. Babies and juveniles hide much more than adults. What kind of snake is she? I also recommend you watch the gradual desensitization video playlist.
Gradual desensitization and target training can start immediately, at any age. Choice-based interactions should be part of low-stress management from day one. These things are rhetorical way the snake is managed as a matter of practice not as a single activity that is done.
T Lang This was discussed in the video. When you need the snake to go back and they aren’t going on they’re own: use your hands, a hook or other similar tool, or a shift box to put them back.
@@LoriTorrini thanks for the reply. I am concerned that putting him back in is causing stress, not necessarily the moving him back in there but, today for example after he chose to come out and being moved back in he spent 6hrs edging and glass rubbing. Will these stress behaviors go away, will he learn that only I can let him out?
T Lang That behavior is because he wants out again, ether because he finds something outside more reinforcing than being in his enclosure (freedom, smells, exercise, just curiosity, etc.), or, he doesn’t like something inside his enclosure (temperatures or substrate or it could be anything), or he might need more to keep him occupied while he is in his enclosure. Many of mine need quite a lot of exercise before they’re ready to go back and rest. Sometimes I put novel items inside once I’ve put them back to make them interested in being inside and keep them occupied for a while. I would keep his normal enclosure furnishings the same so they’re familiar but in one area you could put something new in and change it very few days. Boxes, scents, anything for him to investigate and be curious about.
this video is amazing! I’d love to put this into practice with my DeKay’s, but i’m not sure how that would work since her enclosure opens from the top.
I do this with top opening enclosures as well. Several of the videos with the young cornsnakes and with one of my current juvenile king snakes shows options for training and choice- based handling from the top.
This works with lizards too. I had a full grown iguana that came to me very aggressive. After a couple months trying to mellow him out and getting bit and tail whipped, I just decided to leave his cage open and not pay any attention to him. After a couple months he started wandering around the house. Still paid him no attention. Get up occasionally and just walk by him. He'd get all puffed up, but that subsided after a while. After about six months of that he started sunning himself on the back of my easy chair. We became buds, and he started crawling down my arm to investigate what was on my dinner plate, sometimes helping himself. I never knew how old he was, but I think he eventually passed from old age. I used to run around town in my van and he loved to hang out on the dash, became a local celebrity for awhile. Good memories. Miss my old friend, Gordo.
Lance Huglen That is awesome! Thank you for sharing that story. Very cool.
Such a lovely story 🥺
Hopefully more people start treating reptiles like true companions and not just a hobby or collection like many people unfortunately do. They may not have quite the emotional range that mammals like cats and dogs do but, they're still intelligent animals and they deserve much better than the negative stereotypes they get. My oldest snake, a 14 year-old boa, I've had since he was two weeks old. Love him to death. He'll actually crawl out of his enclosure and onto me if I open it and just let him do his thing. He likes to drape himself around my shoulders and just sniff around and explore. He pays no mind to anything I'm doing, and has never bitten or struck at anyone. He can even recognize when I'm putting him back in his enclosure and he tries to crawl back out unless he's decided he's had enough time exploring and he just wants to go back into his hide. He also learned that he can get my attention by knocking stuff around in his enclosure to make noise. I remember he once woke me up in the middle of the night and just crawled onto me and went back to sleep. I don't really care if people try to say they're emotionless animals - I don't see it that way, and I love my noodles.
I think people make a mistake with snakes. Do they need social interaction to thrive? Except for a few social species like garter snakes, no --but basic emotions of enjoyment, trust, anxiety/fear, and aggression are all emotions that snakes very much seem to have (in fact, they are useful for survival in the wild!). Even bees were shown in a study to play for fun, indicating that they do things for enjoyment. I hope more people are willing to begin seeing that just because they have different needs doesn't mean that they don't enjoy their time with humans, if they associate those humans with good times.
You're spot on!
This is exactly what I’ve been looking for! A lot of people just don’t respect their snake’s (or other reptile’s) emotions, instead taking them by ‘pushing through’ their fear. But that always rubbed me the wrong way. It’s so great to see someone actually implementing and validating these ideas!
*taming
This is perfect. This is the first time I have ever seen someone break this process down into practical steps.Your video makes the whole process understandable and approachable. Thank you so much - I'll be sharing this a lot, as I get lots of questions about it. And thank you for including my photos of a few of the wonderful snakes I have been working with based on your suggestions! The techniques you've taught me have vastly improved quality of life for my snakes, and have transformed the ways I spend time with them in very positive ways. Also, be sure to thank your husband for being such a great model/actor!
Caitwn Thank you! I’m relieved to hear it is what you (and some others) had in mind for a video on this topic.
First time snake owner and I am proud to say most of the goes in this is what I did with my boy without knowing it. It's very easy to pick up on his body language. Today he was more antsy and not in a super social mood. I know it's bc he's hungry as he gets fed every week and this was a day before feeding. So I didn't handle him too long.
This is a great video thank you. As a family we are new reptile keepers with a corn snake, royal python plus a leopard gecko and day gecko and I have always felt uncomfortable about removing them from their enclosure against their will. Our corn snake at first was very nervous and as my daughters pet I wanted her to see and and handle so would remove hides etc and disturb her from the enclosure. It was the same for our Leo, my son wants to hold him so therefore I must remove him. Of recent weeks I have started to change my behaviour in that handling happens only when the animal wants to come out of the enclosure. Our Royal seems to just come out when she wants, we open the viv door and she is out but it has been taking time for our corn and leo to adapt to this way of engagement. The video has given us some great tips and last night my daughters corn came out, on her own accord to explore the table her enclosure is on. We had to intervene as she was about to escape behind the back but when a hand offered she investigated and climbed up my daughters arm. All tips from your video. Thanks again and looking forward to seeing how you get on with your new corn snakes.
Dave Allan Thank you, I’m so happy to hear this and know it’s helping! There are ways to do more active habituation with super shy snakes to encourage them to come out without being intrusive. It’s on my lists of videos to do!
@@LoriTorrini Look forward to seeing that video Lori :-)
I cannot express how happy I am I found this video. I am a first time snake owner with a beautiful little snake that I was prepared to go almost completely hands-off on. I have been taught to always respect animals and to never force interaction on them (unless absolutely necessary). But every video on how to "tame" or get your snake used to handling just absolutely obliterates this idea. So, as a beginner, I thought that hey maybe I need to go about this different than with mammals or birds. But oh no one talked about the difference in behaviour after handling. There was no doubt that my little guy would take some time before he would be comfortable being out and about if I was visible. I once lifted a hide he was in, and he never used it again (so I never did that again. Still feel awful about it). But after just a week of hands-off, he will be back to curiously investigating what I'm fixing in the terrarium or lay and observe me while I'm walking about the room. So I had my mind set on not handling him, unless necessary. I want him to feel safe, curious and brave around me. Now I finally have an approach that actually feels good. And maybe he will never come to the handling part, I think every successful step here is wonderful. Thank you so much for your content, you have a new subscriber❤
I am really happy to read this! It sounds like you had good intuition to begin with regarding how to considerately raise your snake. Be sure to watch the gradual desensitization playlist of videos as well, they are along these same line.
Lori
Fantastic video, this will prevent unnecessary stress to the snake and bites to the human. Its the way forward!
Step by step and so easy for people to understand how the process is. Lori this was truly a wonderful video and if people follow your suggestions they will improve everything for their snakes to live a comfortable life with their human. When mine first started coming to the door by their own choice, l was over the moon, l knew l had been doing the right thing by them. Thanks for the great video Lori, very educational for people.
Thank you for this informative video! I have a very shy corn snake with whom I would like to implement this. Since she is only two and will hopefully remain in my care for many years to come, I can afford to be patient with her. I am also thinking of introducing target training. Anyway, great content- I am looking forward to future updates on this channel!
Gonna try this with a very defensive northern blue tongue skink. I’m moving her to an area with more movement.
I found your channel after listening to your talk with Dillon on The Animals at Home podcast. This video is superb! Excellent advice. Your carpets are gorgeous, as is the bredli and corn snake. I look forward too watching more!
john schlesinger Thank you so much!
Wonderful 😊💞
I hate how people put snakes in plastic boxes like being buried alive and expect the animal to be completely sane.... I believe that the poor snakes go insane in those plastic boxes and drawers ..
I think that's horrible...
I'm so glad that I found your videos because you confirmed what I have always believed...
Snakes are intelligent 🤓💯❤️
I have two ball pythons and I love them 💞💯
Thank you so much!
some of the most thoughtful snake info on youtube. love your content
Thank you.
I printed out a mini version of the behavior chart to put on my snake's tub! Also going to start training soon, once I received and put my young python into a suitable environment, he livened up and his overactive feeding response started to show.
I've got a very flighty and defensive king snake that I bought in April, who remains buried in his substrate 90% of the time. His previous owners didn't handle him much at all, and he urinates and defecates on me whenever I try to handle him. I hate how much handling stresses him out and I'm really hoping that adopting this style of handling will make the difference.
Even steps 1 and 2 are gonna take a long time, unfortunately. His enclosure is in my office, which is a generally quiet room that I'm in often, but he tends to hide once he notices that I've spotted him out of the soil. Thankfully he's in a bioactive enclosure, so I don't have to stress him out with a full scrub down and sanitization every few weeks.
That’s too bad, changing your approach now will still work over time. You’re correct it will be a longer process but we’ll worth it down the road. If you haven’t already watched the gradual desensitization videos those may help you as well.
@@LoriTorrini I'll definitely check those out, thank you! I want what's best for my boys.
10:01 lol, that was adorable how the head perks right up
Great info for a new snake owner, and love the carpet python's name - B'Elanna!
Karen M I’m a big science fiction fan, especially Star Trek.
Disappointed you don’t have more subs! This is such good information thank you so much!
What a great video. I’m a new owner to a Corn Snake. This info is valuable for me. I subbed you too. Thank you for your time.
Thank you!
Just came across your channel and I absolutely love the respect and understanding you clearly have for your animals. I'm getting my first snake since having some when I was very young. I'm getting a western/plains hognose, and many of your videos including the center stage on hognoses has helped ease my mind on many questions I've seen mixed answers on. 👍🇨🇦👍
Thank you!
such good advice !,your snakes are proof patience n kindness always wins
Love your approach I find your videos very helpful!
Very well put together video, with excellent demonstrations for each step. Thank you!
As a point of interest, I have recently purchased a Stimsons python after being a bird owner for years. It's my first reptile.
I found myself already using some of these steps, since I approached snake handling as if it were a bird; You can't grab a parrot, they must decide to be handled.
Anyhow, great content.
Hi Lori! Thanks so much for all the informative content you generously share with the public. I'm wondering if Step 3 works for snakes in top-opening enclosures and how the method may change if using something like that?
Here is a video about training and top opening enclosures. ua-cam.com/video/9LXaCsbtR8k/v-deo.html
Here is a playlist with videos using top opening enclosures. ua-cam.com/play/PLNbZzsRecQ2bzb2j3mcaCGn88mohJAugN.html
@@LoriTorrini You’re awesome! Thank you!
Hello! I recently got my first ever corn snake. She’s 6 months and I have her in a 40 gallon. I have done TONS of research, and unfortunately have been misguided by large groups of reptile keepers. I held my snake for the first time the other day. They told me to just find her and confidently scoop her up. I tried, and she ran, and I caught her. They told me to hold her until she gets relaxed, to which I did. But I believe the “relaxing” may have been flooding. I haven’t handled her again. I also made sure she wasn’t handled for a week and a half before I handled her. I think I really scared her. Most people say that she will be fine and to not anthropomorphize her by seemingly giving her human emotion. They say to do it again at least twice a week.
Im at a loss. Did I just ruin all hope for stress-free handling that one time? She runs when she sees me but I’ve had her for almost 3 weeks now. Can I simply restart, or did I just cause irreversible damage to our relationship?
I may have this snake for 25 years. What if I just ruined everything?
You can start over with choice-based interactions and no flooding! It’s a set back so it may take longer for her to trust you now but as you said, she will be with you a long time so there is no hurry. I will link some gradual desensitization videos for you.
Here is a choice-based interactions playlist for you.
ua-cam.com/play/PLNbZzsRecQ2bMde9oCRTKALG6N6IHKgn5.html
Here is the gradual desensitization playlist. ua-cam.com/play/PLNbZzsRecQ2bHcWp8-EG6O26T8lZbaQr6.html
Awesome video and very informative. This has answered many of my questions on how to get started. Thanks for sharing!
Amazing video thank you! I was wondering how to approach this with noctural snakes? (I have a Stimson's Python), as she doesn't move as much in the daytime.
I have several clients with Antaresia and have two myself. Mine are actually pretty active anytime I’m around their enclosure but that may be because they are associating me with things they like. I do work with species who are primarily only awake and active at night and so that is when I work with them. I work with all of the animals on their schedule, when it is normal for them to be awake and active. Many adapt their wake periods over time to earlier or later depending on when they start to notice we are around. That is if they associate people with something good. If they have poor associations with people they will hide more or retreat when people are around.
Thank you Lori for replying! I’ve been following your steps and Pretzel is now more active during the day which I’m hoping is a positive association! We don’t disturb her now unless she is active and we’ve had some great results with her handling. Thank you so much for your amazing videos and for responding.
Hi Lori, it's really amazing the work you do and I greatly appreciate all your help you give us newbies.. I've been following your channel and must have seen most of the videos... I have a 10mo corn snake I got 4 months back..first month and a half I've been handling him often based on the advice from other forums that more you handle they'll learn to tolerate and become more interactive eventually..I had my doubts but followed the advice..he was always flighty and defensive...when I came across your channel and FB Adv husbandry group 2 months ago.. started following the passive habituation and target training...I need some advice or even encouragement.. He has been hiding even more... Comes out after lights are out at night...I really miss interacting with him..I haven't held him for past two months now.. please help 😊
Behavior following events is telling. If a snake (or many other animals) have found prior experiences aversive they will hide more after and exhibit increased avoidance behavior in an attempt to prevent from experiencing the events of the past (in this case forced handling). Be patient and start from square one with passive habituation, gradual desensitization, and consider target training or puzzle feeding to build his confidence. Since there are prior bad experiences with you from the snake’s perspective it will take longer to work up to him remaining visible in your presence and eventually allowing contact than if things had been different from the beginning. Just relax and have no expectations. Things will change over time if you stick to least intrusive principles and work to build positive associations.
Thanks alot...I'll keep following the recommendations and will update you if we make any progress..😊. Thanks again.
Thanks for posting this, I'm certain it will be very useful for our baby Russian ratsnake.
Great video! How do you make sure your snake doesn't escape while letting it explore your space?
@@florum7227 Escape to where? Outside of the designated rooms or outdoors?
I wish there was a channel like this, but for crested geckos. Anyone have any recommendations? I love this channel all the same, since I plan on one day keeping a snake, at least one.
You can apply the same training methods and many of the enrichment ideas to your Geckos. Here is an article you might enjoy.
journal.iaabcfoundation.org/gecko-enrichment/#:~:text=Food%2DBased%20enrichment,out%2C%20leading%20to%20hunting%20behaviour.
Would this still work for smaller/faster species of snakes? I feel like many types of snakes would be able to quickly get in places you don't want them. Not all of them explore so slowly.
When working with species small and flighty, I use a safe containment area. I may place them in a large box or cloth exercise pen for dogs or a tent, something where they can be free of their enclosure or shift box but still safely contained and not loose in the entire room. If their entire enclosure (for small snakes) can be placed into a safe exercise area then you can proceed by opening the door as is shown here, if not, then I generally wait for them to be inside a hide with a bottom or something they have learned through prior association is a transport box from their habitat to the exercise space and move the box with them inside it.
@@LoriTorrini that makes a lot of sense. Thank you for the insights.
How would this work for a skittish snake that doesn't really come out much? I've been working with her and she's gotten better but I think she would greatly benefit from this process. She's just terrified of everything. She can be fast though too so I worry about her getting away from me lol
Yes and if you haven’t already, watch this video on gradually desensitizing a snake to your presence and proximity. ua-cam.com/video/GWQCO7bMN8s/v-deo.html
Great video
How would you do that if the enclosure is front opening (sliding doors) and about 1m above the ground? I would be scared that the snake gets hurt if it goes out of the enclosure...
Do you mean having them shift out or come out on their own? It is actually much easier to do with sliding doors and a front opening enclosure. I have so many videos showing snakes doing this behavior, just look through some of the videos about shifting or stationing, or about activity stations and stands. You can just put a stand, platform, ladder, or anything adjacent to the enclosure opening for them to shift out onto. I showed a video recently of a snake shifting out onto an activity station from about 1.5 m up.
I picked up my new ball python from an expo on Saturday and noticed Wednesday he's got a respiratory infection. Took him to the vet Friday morning. Now he needs another shot Monday and next Friday. His enclosure is a top opening 20G long in the upper half of my Tarantula shelf. Three sides of his terrarium are blacked out. Protected also by plexiglass doors from my dogs and cats. I wish i could practice what this video tells me to do.
It is easier in a front opening terrarium but I have playlist about how to work with your snake if they live in a top opening enclosure. Get him through this medical crisis and then let him settle and start with the choice-based interactions.
@LoriTorrini thank you! I just subscribed to you yesterday after Bob from the Green Room mentioned you several times and I'm already addicted to your videos! I'm gonna try to build my own snake target stick. Pet stores around me don't sell them
This video is cool. I have one snake that I think already enjoys handling. She acts like she wants to come out. So I get her out and then when I put her back she doesn't want to go off my hand.
If I try to put her on the floor she won't go...
I love this! I wonder if it would still work well with an already socialized snake? Ive had my ball python for 6 years but this past week he bit me pretty bad during feeding, so im being extra careful and id like to start implementing more choice handling. Any advice on starting this when hea already comfortable with touch and handling?
@@raydawson8236 I start every snake that arrives here this way whether it’s has been previously habituated to handling or not. We take in many species with different backgrounds and of different ages and we just start from scratch with them.
@@LoriTorrini good to know! I'll be moving soon, so I'm going to try to have a room suitable to start choice handling with him. I do have a tank that slides open from the top, rather than the side- have you noticed any difference in success with different tank types?
What's a good way to do this when you have cats and s small dog? Specifically the showing them to explore? Right now my girl is in quarantine in my bedroom, so I can work in the first pieces, but unsure about exploring outside until she's clear from quarantine?
Do you intend to have her explore other rooms? I don't allow cats and snakes to be free in the same room together so I will make sure they are in separate rooms with the doors closed. I would close your cats out of the room your snake is in now, if she is out free roaming or you're working on choice-based interactions or training. If you get to the point of allowing your snake to explore other rooms, I would put the cats in a separate room where you can close them in. Be sure to make this a good experience for the cats, a time when they get a special treat, toy, enrichment experience or their favorite food so the cats don't view this as aversive. As for the dogs, mine have learned to ignore the snake and leave them alone and the snakes do the same with the dogs but I am guessing this will depend on your individual animals so it may be that when your snake if free roaming your dogs are engage in another activity away from them, make sure it is something they like!
The cats don't have access to the quarantine room at all, neither dies the dog. I hadn't previously thought about allowing free roaming, but your videos have made it very appealing to ensure she can choose her time out. I'm thinking I'll get a pet play pen and a transition (shift?) box and work on that. I loved the target training video tok and her first feed day with me is tomorrow so will be trying that. Do you have a video about the shift box?
Lori, do you have the last slide (green/yellow/red zones) available somewhere as a print-out? I would love to provide it to staff as a reference.
Yes. It’s posted as a photo on my website homepage but I’m happy to send you the electronic file via email or social media messenger.
BehaviorEducation.org
Or
BehaviorEducationLLC@gmail.com
This is the video I needed! Thanks!!
You are so great! Thanks for doing this. Wish we found you before we bought our snake babies!
Off topic: you are super cute! Love your glasses 🥰
We have one naturally curious sweet snake, and one cranky boy. We would love some help with him. How do we become a client?
@@RacksandRoyals Thank you. I offer group and private training and consultations locally and remotely worldwide through www.Patreon.com/BehaviorEducation
This video helped me alot! I am just worried, cause I have cats, so I cant let my snake roam very freely. Should i try moving her to a different room where the cats can't go? There wont be that much activity though, atm her enclosure is in the living room, it would be a separate room then... I am really not sure how to do this the best way.
I have a couple of videos about managing cats and snakes. I usually put the cats in a separate room when I’m working with the snakes or once the snakes are shifting out I put them into or have them go into a safe place space like an exercise tent or room.
As much as I want this to work on my ball python, I am rather discouraged :/ .
I think I made a few handling and trust mistakea with him at the beginning and now he is a shy and reclusive snake.
When I first got him he tried to come to the glass but I didn't let him out because I thought he wanted go escape and I was afraid it would be too cold outside.
Now he almost never wants to come out anymore. And when I have to remove him he is so angsty and flighty. And when he is on my hands the slightest movement of my arm and fingers frighten him and he tries to get away from me fast.
If I sit in front of the enclosure he never comes out, only puts his head out slightly.
I feel like he is completely afraid of me and I don't deny it might be because I made mistakes.
But now I am not sure he can learn new behaviours and change. He is 7 month old now.
Can you give me hope in any way that this is worth the time and effort and if this can work on a ball python?
I understand. One of the Royals we work with here is exactly the same way. He arrived at an older age, about 8-9 months old and had aversive handling prior to arrival. He is exactly as you describe and we are working on ways to help him. He has learned the first few steps of target training and will come out of his hide with with his head and the first few inches of his neck to approach the target and earn a food reinforcer. This is as far as we’ve gotten with him so far. Please email me if you want it brainstorm further or consider joining our Patreon Community for one on one coaching or group discussions.
BehaviorEducationLLC@gmail.com
Patreon.com/BehaviorEducation
My youngest is only two months, my second is ten months, so choice based handling is not something I've tried. However I do spend plenty of time with them in their spaces so they get the opportunity to figure me out before I pick them up. I never lunge in and grab them directly. They're a little nervous when I approach the space, but when I'm in there they have time to adjust before I pick them up. They're doing very well, and have always ended on a positive note.
When they're older, I'll wait for them to come to me.
Choice -based interactions are something g you can start at any age, the younger the better. In fact young snakes are usually feel threatened more easily than older ones and demonstrating to them that you’re not going to force yourself on them is an important part of building trust. Choice-based ideally should start from the time the snakes are hatched to develop trust and clear communication with the babies which results in trusting adults.
@@LoriTorrini I do incorporate a lot of patience before handling, they have the choice to come onto my hands, and they get to come out if they do. They're doing fantastically and are nice and relaxed when held. I've never been bitten, pooped on or musked.
But leaving the tank open for them to roam around at this age gives me huge anxiety, especially as they can get under the door, and I have cats.
I have 2 cornsnakes, but they where already 7 years old when i got them half a year ago, is it possible to learn this with older snakes like mine? Or is it something that has to be done from a younger age? If possible i would like to give this a try 👌
Any age! I have started target training much older snakes, including a 10 year old cornsnake who caught on very quickly. Choice-based interactions are how we manage all of our snakes of all ages when possible.
@@LoriTorrini okay good tho know then i will definately give it a try to learn something like this 🤗🤗
My scaless corn is almost 2 years old, and all she does is hide and on the rare occasion switch hides, at this time I feed her every 10 days. So id like to get her to come out more and to do this I want to build her confidence and also want to be handled. Up until this moment Ive done everything force based. Catching her going between hides is almost impossible so there is little opportunity to engage with choice based handling, so that just leaves target training, should I feed her more often to enforce training? Ive taken her hide with a bottom out a few times and set up in a play pen and on a desk and shes never even looked out, but these are also at times when she doesn't come out anyway. Id like to do some more training but I feel like there is little opportunity to do it.
You’re going to need to start from scratch if you’ve already been doing things force based. You will need to earn her trust and confidence. Snakes don’t like or want to be handled so that’s the last thing you will work on down the road after she trusts that you’re not going to force handling on her. The more you do that the more the will hide and the less they will come out when you’re around. Training revolves around their normal feeds if you’re using food reinforcers. You don’t feed more food or more often as that would be unhealthy. You’re going to have to let you passively habituate to your presence until she learns you’re not going to intrude into her space or force handling and eventually she should remain visible more. Watch the video that I just put out that follows up with some Choice-Based Handling tips and how to proceed with Approach and Retreat work once she’s visible.
@@LoriTorrini Thanks Lori, I will work on some puzzle feeding to build confidence and wait for her to build some confidence to come out on her own. Love the channel! Live Long and Prosper!
@@waynedryden6737 Thank you. Peace and long life.
Hi.any tips for a 11 weeks boa imperator super shy.i took her out twice in 3 weeks.took her time to find the hot,like a lot of babys she stuck on the high ground I made for her (had to took it out) to « force her to use the hot spot but now she never move from it.she’s never aggressive but very scared...great job,great vid which confort me into some options I decided to take.take care.
maria callas I have run into this behavior with Boas before. I am working with one very shy individual boa now and target training has worked wonders to build his confidence. After 3 months of target training he will now target out of hiding and all the way out of his enclosure to receive his food reward. That’s a big step so that now, I can start more active habituation with him through limited, short handling and other exercises. He just drank and defecated for the first time. This species can be very shy and you have to be very careful to make experiences positive and not scary; and, take your time. She’s only 11 weeks and will hopefully be with you 20-30 years so you have plenty of time. There is no hurry. Take the time now to ensure a good relationship down the road.
maria callas I should have added that I started simply pairing the target with food inside the enclosure and then targeting him little by little within the enclosure and then to the edge, etc. over the past few months. It doesn’t happen overnight.
Thks for your time and work.take care.
can this be done with any type of snake ? I just got a 2 months year old baby white sided rat snake a month ago and hes very defensive, aggressive, hisses and bites and hides all the time. I dont know what to do :(
Yes. I responded to your other comment as well. Behavior science and the laws of learning don’t change based on species, how you apply them may be individualized for your animal. I would stick to choice-based interactions and start target training and/or puzzle feeding. We have a couple of snakes who have started out as you describe, with time and patience they learn to be more confident and less fearful.
Thank you for your response. As of now I built him a park with trees and leaves and stuff and we have recreation time. Thank you for your work, you are amazing.@@LoriTorrini
What if u have a top opening glass enclosure? That’s taller than they can reach up to to get out on their own? (With a ball Python)
They climb. Fill the vertical space with furnishings to help. I have a playlist with videos of snakes and top opening enclosures. You can find it here: ua-cam.com/play/PLNbZzsRecQ2bzb2j3mcaCGn88mohJAugN.html
Hello! I recently discovered this video and love the idea of it. I’m a new snake owner and have a plains Hognose snake. I’ve been doing the normal way of handling (I just scoop him up). Does choice based work with Hognose snakes as well?
I’ve been handling him regularly since I’ve had him but I feel bad just reaching in there. He always seems uncomfortable with it.
Yes. We worked with a Hognose snake for 5 years using only choice-based interactions and target training. She recently passed away from cancer.
ua-cam.com/video/SBpDnt_0pHY/v-deo.htmlsi=j4O3vFRMEmOEalZy
Thanks for the response. Sorry about your loss.
I’m definitely considering doing this with my Hognose.
Would you say target training is necessary? I just drop feed him now because feeding tongs terrify him.
I have a juvenile dumeril's boa who associates everything that moves with food. I tried the foot thing but as soon as moved my foot it became a prey item for him. Do you have any other recommendations because he's coming out to explore fine
I would use a cue to indicate when he IS going to be fed. I e used a specific target for this with several snake just to signal food. They never get fed unless they see the target first and so it has calmed inappropriate feeding responses at other times.
@@LoriTorrini oh my gosh thank you so much I will try this his first target feeding was last week and he struck at it like yours did in your python vs boa part 2 video. He's very eager
@@mrslapp9614 Pair the target directly with food the first few sessions and give him no opportunity to strike directly at the target, only the food in from of it. I have a troubleshooting guide I can email to you if you contact me via BehaviorEducationLLc@gmail.com
Great video! What kind of shake was that at 8:00
That is a Super Dwarf Reticulated Python. His name is TC and he is from @ReachOutReptiles
@@LoriTorrini thank you. So beautiful!
Thank you for this! We have a new baby ball python and are totally new snake owners -- this s a great blueprint for positive interactions! How do you handle things like enclosure cleaning where you *have* to handle them, sometimes against their will?
(also, hello fellow Trek fan!! B'Elanna's lovely, and I saw a Lyta and a Tilly there too.
Thank you! Enclosure cleaning is something you don’t have to handle your snake to do. Unless there is a medical emergency or exigent circumstances like a sudden evacuation, you don’t need to ever hands your snake. It’s nice to be able to but not necessary. Enclosure disturbances are stressful so it’s best to spot clean or clean part at a time so familiar scents are always present. If the snake is in a hide I just cover the entrance while I clean around it or remove the whole hide with the snake in it and then put it back when done cleaning. Once the snake is coming out on their own or trained to shift out on cue, you can ask them to come out or wait until they come out to clean. I have videos about how to manage this as well as about studies showing that it is distressing to disturb their enclosures and clean too much too often.
Yes, I’m a big Star Trek fan!
@@LoriTorrini Oh my gosh, thank you for replying! We're trying to do right by our little girl but there's so much info out there and a lot of it seems to conflict.
We're going to have to take her out of the tank in the next few days -- we got some bad advice from the breeder we bought her from and are changing substrates. It'll be the first time we've handled her since we got her a week and a half ago, we've been trying to leave her alone and give her room to settle in, but her humidity isn't staying near high enough and this is the last thing we can think of to try and bump it up. She's been chilling in her coconut hide for the last few days (I think she comes out quite late at night), so I'll try gently taking her and the hide out at once and hopefully not giving her too big a scare. We haven't done any sort of habituation so she's still kind of nervous of us.
I'm checking out some of your other videos on the topic of humidity, but I'm curious: what substrate/substrate mix do you use for your BPs in particular? We've been looking at coco coir plus a layer of coco husk or repti bark, maybe.
Is this possible with a Western Hognose?
Yes. I have a few videos of our Hognose during training sessions and activities. Her name is Hazel.
@@LoriTorrini great, thank you! I will search for the videos. I have a 6-month-old that I would love to start this with now that she has been settled in for a few months and eating great. She is not a fan of being pulled out of her egg to be socialized, but she is very sweet. Love your techniques! They are fantastic!
I stupidly thought I was chased by water snakes while kayaking and posted about it on Reddit. Ever since I've gone down a snake rabbithole and just found you lol
I'm still sooooooo icked out by them. I saw a GIGANTIC garter snake on my walk today and it freaked me out! It was brown and spotted and didnt look like a young yellowish garter (you can tell i know nothing about this 😂).
You snake enthusiasts are making me appreciate snakes and i want to try to stop being grossed out. They're really beautiful, but just so slithery- the thought of one slithering my ankles 🤮 i want to conquer this fear tho!!! Maybe my first step is to get comfortable picking up a baby garter
Anyways, sorry for my rant just wanna say you snake people are cool. And I love the nerd lanyard! Nerds are my peoples
Edit: im in MN, USA
I’m glad you’re learning from the content. Snakes are actually not slimy-feeling amphibians are as they have moist skin, but snakes and other reptiles are not. Their skin is dry.
I am at the point where he comes out when given the chance and readily explores the table where the enclosure is on. He does not mind me as long I don't do any hectic movements.
My only concerns is he may fall down from the table and I am not sure if a fall from a ordinary kitchen table would do harm so I better redirect him.
You can place soemthing adjacent to the table as another step down from the table level or if you are watching him you can place your hands a few inches below him so that he falls into your hands if he loses his balance. That can be a good way to build trust, if you catch him when he falls and then set him down in a safe spot.
@@LoriTorrini good idea, thank you very much :)
How long does this process usually take?
It depends on the individual snake. It could be a few days or weeks for a confident, well started Animal to several months or even years for an extremely shy and fearful animal or one with prior aversive experiences with humans.
Hello! 👋🏻
I consider to get myself a ball python, as I love reptiles since I was young. I love Your video, but have two questions:
1. How often should I do those sessions? Once a day, once a week? Is it the same with stages 1 and 2?
2. Do You think it would be safe to introduce to pet store snake (I want to apply to pet store and they have a snake there), of course after the acceptation of the staff? Or is it recommended only for snakes held as pets in home? (I mean introduction to handling, as letting them roam around could be seen as a hazard in the store)
Have you thoroughly researched what species of snake is best suited for your lifestyle, your expectation of it, and what you would like to do with it? Royal Pythons usually do not meet the expectations of the typical person who wants a snake for a pet. I consult on this often and when people fill out my survey they usually indicate they want a snake that is active, visible, doesn't hide a lot, and doesn't require meticulous environmental parameters. Python regius are the opposite of this. They are usually inactive, hide most of the time, and are visible usually at night and not during the day or evening. Whatever snake you decide on, please make sure you watch the Gradual Desensitization video which is a great start to choice-based handling and interactions. The snake will choose when the sessions are and how often because you should be doing this when they are naturally awake and visible. For Royal Pythons this is usually during the night. I am participating in a Royal Python behavior study now and so far the snakes have been active for a couple of hours in the middle of the night, between about 11pm and 1am, hiding all day and not visible during the day.
@@LoriTorrini thanks for responding! I've heard they are okay for beginners and I get gradually more busy with my life.
I've also seen pics of ball pythons/python regius on Reddit, interacting with their owners. Actually they recommend Your videos for learning choice-based snake care and handling.
I am aware that they are mostly nocturnal snakes.
But I am curious about the survey. Can I access it somehow? Is it paid?
Hi Lori,
I have some questions.
So last night once my 10mo male BP was awake, I took the lid off, then stepped away for a sec, then I took his hide off and he bluff struck at me. After about 4 strikes I was able to distract him with one hand and grab him with the other.
We spent a good, soothing hour together after that.
He is very cage territorial. He’s never struck at me the 5-6 months I’ve had him! It was a sudden change in behavior.
The only new thing that has changed is my girl is now in a viv next to him. Plus, last feeding I went 8 or 9 days instead of 7. I’ll stick to 7.
The husbandry is perfect!
Anyways, how can I make grabbing him out of his cage less stressful for him?
He hissed and huffed and puffed for as I removed him. His behavior changed instantly once he was in my hands!!Around the 30 minute mark he finally relaxed his entire body.
I purchased a snake hook to pet him with before grabbing, and I hope it helps. Other than that, what steps can I take to ease the process?
Thank you so much again 🙏💛🐍
Jordan, Why did you remove his hide? I don’t recommend removing snakes from their hides or removing the hide from them unless it is an emergency. It is intrusive and if they’re hiding they are choosing not to engage with the outside environment. Wait until he is out of his hide on his own, visible and alert; then, open his enclosure and give him the opportunity to come out, do not reach in and grab him. Reaching in and grabbing them is intrusive and most snakes find that aversive. Choice-based handing and cooperative care uses the Least Intrusive Minimally Aversive methods to work with animals. Everything you described was force-based and intrusive. Striking is an escalation in behavior because other attempts to communicate that he wants to be left alone or finds your interactions aversive have been ignored. Usually the more the snake’s are removed from hiding and subjected to forced-handling, the more they will hide, attempt to get away, or begin more aggressive behavior to remove the aversive stimulus/perceived threat (in this case your hands). Allow the snake to choose when he comes out, forced handling will only cause his behavior to get worse or eventually produce a state of subjective helplessness in him. Please let me know if there is something you don’t understand or if this has generated more questions.
Lori
Lori, do you have any recommendations for transitioning between passive and more active habituation? I've been working with a re-homed adult rosy boa for the past several months. When he's visible and active, I can sit on the floor about six feet from the enclosure and he will continue slowly exploring, but if I even look in his general direction he will freeze and won't move until I re-direct my attention away from him. We are also working on target training but that has been slow to start since he only eats every two or three weeks. Is it just a matter of time for him to become more confident with me in general, or is there anything I can do to help him realize that not only am I a non-threatening presence, but that looking at him, or having my attention focused on him, is non-threatening as well?
Time, patience, and then you could try foraging exercises inside the enclosure. Sometimes they will become so engaged in searching for their food and getting to it that they don’t worry about you being there and you’re able to slowly get closer while they engage in the activity.
@@LoriTorrini One additional question, if you'll indulge me. If a snake exits the enclosure and explores, but then does not choose to return to their enclosure after an extended time, then obviously the snake will need to be moved back. Even doing so with minimal handling, doesn't this form a negative association for the snake? Not only are you stopping them from exploring, but you're handling them (even if very gently/very briefly). If a snake is still fearful of the human (but willing to explore) then couldn't even that little bit of handling make the association that people = scary?
Yes. If a snake is not comfortable and relaxed with handling, then picking them up to put them away can end up being a distressing event. If a snake is on the extreme shy/fearful end of the temperament spectrum or has not habituated to at least tolerating minimal handling, I recommend exercise time be in a contained environment that the snake may be left in long term and wait for them to go into a shift box (hide with a bottom) that you can pick up and place inside their enclosure without actually handling them, or, you can pick an object up that they are on like a rock, log, perch, box, etc., and place the entire object inside the enclosure with them. You can remove shift boxes or objects from the enclosure later, once the snake has moved away from them. Once a snake is comfortable and relaxed or at least tolerant of some handling you can practice periodically putting them away but not closing the door, so that they can come right back out if they want. If they get used to that, it can minimize the aversive association when you must put them away and close the door. Unfortunately, no matter what we do, these animals are captives. We have taken away their freedom by bringing them into our homes and while we can try to minimize force and offer as much choice as possible, they are still in captivity. Sadly, they will never truly be free and will be subjected to control by humans to keep them and others in the household safe under captive management. All we can do is try to reduce aversive experiences as much as we can, allow as much choice and control as is safe, create environments that increase perceived control, and minimize force to keep distress down. It is not a force-free or stress-free world. We want to help them build resiliency to these things when they must experience them, even at low levels and keep the levels of force and stress low.
I’m not able to move my snake into a more trafficked area yet because her current enclosure is not cat proof. Is this something I can work on with her in my craft room as she is? I sit near her and do crafts most evenings and she is often out and about just a few feet away from me. (Texas rat snake)
I do plan to update her enclosure as she grows but she’s currently quite small and in a 40 gallon tank so it will be a year or so before I move her into her adult home.
You can do the choice-based interactions and gradual desensitization wherever she is located. Just spend more time in that room and take your work from other area of the house in there. It is no problem. It sounds like you're already doing that in the evenings.
I know this is a very late comment but would you still recommend doing this while the snake is still young?
I recommend doing this the second the snake is with you, the sooner the better. The younger they are when you start training them and habituating them through gradual desensitization the better they will adapt to life as a family member.
@@LoriTorrini thanks so much for the advice! I want to get a bredli python very soon so im super excited to get him and start getting to know eachother.
@@chronick3137 Bredl’s Pythons are my favorite snake species and I work with 34 of them here. They do so well with choice-based handling and target training. Where are you getting yours from and is it a normal or a variant?
@@LoriTorrini I live in NSW in Australia im planning on getting it from a very well known pet shop that has a massive range of reptiles to choose from. I wanted to get a male preferably a hypo.
@@chronick3137 Excellent. In my experience with ours here the stonewashed have the naturally best temperaments and the hypos tend to be reactive at first but with time and patience become more confident. Normals are pretty confident and some have great temperament but there are a couple of lines here in the States that tend to bite until they’re worked with.
Will my snake be more scare of me when every time I handle him and move him into the enclosure after letting him roam at my room
Bird Shen I am working on a video about choice-based handling for really shy and fearful snakes. I’ll try to work on it and get it up soon.
Bird Shen Sometimes you can just relocate them safely within the room and allow more exploration and then finally put them away. This way they don’t think every time you pick them up they’re going back. Mix it up.
Hey, what if your enclosure is too high and you cant allow them to leave on their own terms, what is the next step to take in training? I'm trying this with a blue tongue skink.
Thanks
I have many enclosures taller than me and have demonstrated various solutions for this. Ladders, rolling stands, attachments to the exterior of the enclosure for the reptile to climb out onto, etc. it’s no problem. I will link at least one here for you.
ua-cam.com/video/OJzedC8MBXU/v-deo.html
@@LoriTorriniThanks for your swift response. Would removing the whole hide and placing it in a new environment work the same or is that too intrusive.
@@catshietbud You can try that and see how the snake responds. This works really well for some snakes and it causes distress for others and so you need to assess how your particular snake handles it.
@@LoriTorrini Awesome thank you! sorry if I sound a bit repetitive, just messaged you on patron before I seen your response here.
@@catshietbud Ok, I will go and look there, Lori
My snake is pretty much always in hide, I have her about 2 weeks, I want to stay near her tank to make her used to me but she's never out, Should I wait more?
Yes. You do not want to disturb her when she’s hiding. Intruding will only cause her to hide more or find a new hiding spot. 2 weeks is nothing time wise for a snake. They can take months or years to acclimate depending on their age and how shy they are or not. Babies and juveniles hide much more than adults. What kind of snake is she? I also recommend you watch the gradual desensitization video playlist.
@@LoriTorrini she's baby corn snake
@@LoriTorrini im afraid that I will not socialize her enough when she's in that crucial age :( but I would love to have snake that's comfortable
how old does my cornsnake have to be for this activity?
Gradual desensitization and target training can start immediately, at any age. Choice-based interactions should be part of low-stress management from day one. These things are rhetorical way the snake is managed as a matter of practice not as a single activity that is done.
What if your ball python never wants to go back inside?
T Lang This was discussed in the video. When you need the snake to go back and they aren’t going on they’re own: use your hands, a hook or other similar tool, or a shift box to put them back.
@@LoriTorrini thanks for the reply. I am concerned that putting him back in is causing stress, not necessarily the moving him back in there but, today for example after he chose to come out and being moved back in he spent 6hrs edging and glass rubbing. Will these stress behaviors go away, will he learn that only I can let him out?
T Lang That behavior is because he wants out again, ether because he finds something outside more reinforcing than being in his enclosure (freedom, smells, exercise, just curiosity, etc.), or, he doesn’t like something inside his enclosure (temperatures or substrate or it could be anything), or he might need more to keep him occupied while he is in his enclosure. Many of mine need quite a lot of exercise before they’re ready to go back and rest. Sometimes I put novel items inside once I’ve put them back to make them interested in being inside and keep them occupied for a while. I would keep his normal enclosure furnishings the same so they’re familiar but in one area you could put something new in and change it very few days. Boxes, scents, anything for him to investigate and be curious about.
@@LoriTorrini ahh, great idea! Thank you so much for your help, and your channel!
What if your snake is NEVER out? I want to do this with my balls but I only have one explorer. 😢
I answered that question in this video.
ua-cam.com/video/ZHfmpaiH_7I/v-deo.html
“What if my Snake always hides?”
this video is amazing! I’d love to put this into practice with my DeKay’s, but i’m not sure how that would work since her enclosure opens from the top.
I do this with top opening enclosures as well. Several of the videos with the young cornsnakes and with one of my current juvenile king snakes shows options for training and choice- based handling from the top.