I last slicked up one of these a year or so ago and it as MUCH less rough than this one. The chambers were a bit below par but an automative brake hone soon fixed that.... makes a lovely job. Most of the opening stiffness is in the fore end fit on most of them.... They come out really well and for the money are hard to beat.
i cant believe that thing is that rough off the line. nice job on the slick up. my uplander supreme is smooth as shit through a goose, right out the box! i may take the spring down like you did for a little ease but it has a very positive feel to it when it opens and closes. no wiggle side to side.
Raising the bar here for content, editing, no annoying music, and being easy to follow without CC. btw, I like the spring mod/trim. Slamming shut when one is stiff can't be good for ease of use (HD, skeet, clays, vermin) or longevity of fit & function. Sadly, I've seen too many family relics broken from just playing around vs firing.
I use a brake master cylinder hone with ultra fine stones for cleaning up the chambers. Final polish with a felt wheel and jewellers rouge. Very fast and cleans up beautifully.
@@TATVCanada Agreed, the high brass 3" used to stick in the chamber of the one I just picked up and required a rod to knock them out. Cleaned up the extractor rods and polish the chamber and now the spent husks fall out. I got it for $150 due to this problem.
@@holleyman1970 Congrats on the acquisition 👍 and thanks for the reminder of what a bk-cyl hone can fit diameter-wise. btw, I use various gauge SG 'mops' on a drill with red or white auto polishing compound to smooth up bottle-necked rifle chambers. Rapid plunge action with the coarse red,slow and steady with the 'softer' white. Keeps it wet with drops of odorless mineral spirits vs water. Cheers. 🙂
Glad to hear it. I've never seen one of the blued models in person; what's the finish like on the friction surfaces? Are you finding it wears at all, or is it pretty resilient?
@@TATVCanada The finish on mine was really good. It doesn't have any of the cast look or poor reaming. All I had to do was smooth up the ejector rod, cut a couple of coils off the spring, and take a shotgun shell with emory paper wrapped around it to smooth the chambers. They already looked fairly smooth but I wanted a mirror finish. I only messed with it to get the thing to drop open and drop shells out.
I got one of the coach guns on sale years ago and it was ridiculous how gritty everything was out of the box and the fitment of the parts such as the extractor took a lot for work to get working correctly without hanging up . Used a brake hone on the cylinders in steps until I could break open the action and turn over so the spent shells would fall right out . When I started you had to hit the tang lever and literally pry the gun open and same for closing . When I was done you could press the tang lever and the weight of the barrels will open the action and an upward flick of the wrist will close and lock the action up . Nice little gun now after a little "Sweat Equity"
The sad part is if you compare a new coach gun to an old one you will quickly see how much better the fit and finish is on the older one. The new ones are atrocious and aren’t worth the price but if you find an old one without the weld, buy it. Great gun and significantly under priced. Thanks for the video, now I need to go through all my newer coach guns that barely open.
I haven't come across many old ones but what you're saying is definitely reflective of the trends in the firearms industry as a whole. The pressure on manufacturers to produce something at a price people are willing (or these days just plain able) to pay is definitely having an effect on quality and production standards.
@TATVcanada, that is very true. Not just for coach guns either. Like my Ithaca Model 37 16 gauge from 1949, it's so perfect outside of hard to replace a barrel. Which can be done at a cost of sacrificing your old one, getting a new adapter in your shotgun and accept a modern barrel from serial number 855,000 on. But when you feel such a shotgun, shoot it, operate it, or just take it apart, you see the craftsmanship where it counts most. It's butter smooth, accurate, rifle like trigger, everything was made by hand or as a solid piece, NO WELDING OR HEAT added to parts, and even dirty from never being cleaned for 70 years, it still ran perfectly. Better than any Mossberg or Remington I have ever handled. Those guns have rough actions, cheap parts and they all feel different because they are machine made not hand made. By feel different, seriously, stocks over the generations have changed and often feel bulky, especially on 16 gauge and smaller guns. But you are correct on it all being due to making something affordable. An Ithaca Model 37 Featherlight today, is over $1300 USD, so probably around $1500-$1800 Canadian now. Used, $400 or under minus 20 and 28 gauge models usually, or something rare about them like mint condition or furniture. Or buy a Maverick 88, for still $320 Canadian. Super reliable and great shotguns, but nowhere near the quality of yesteryear.
It would be interesting to find out what casting process is used in the production of these parts. I would have guessed Lost wax, but the rough surface looks more like lost foam ?
I definitely don't have the expertise to say, but those both sound possible. I was kind of under the impression most cast parts were rough casts that were hand/machine finished. Many of these appear to have had little finishing work done if any.
@@TATVCanada I was just curious. I've seen other videos of the same model gun that had much better looking components. Maybe they changed sources and finish requirements ?
@@bill3641 It's entirely possible. Likewise different staff/machines at the factory will make a difference, too. I had a friend who worked in an automotive factory for decades, and he told me first-hand you could tell who was working that day based on what came out the assembly line.
The only part I found odd was the boresnake from the muzzle. Maybe not wanting to spread compound down the rest of the barrel, but disconcerting to see for me.
I remember 20 years ago you could buy these things for $169 all day long. They were super fun to shoot it, but didn’t come with screw and choke tube so I didn’t have any interest in them since I was mainly using shotguns for predator and turkey hunting. I won a few of the ducks unlimited banquet and just traded them off. I wish I would’ve kept one to leave by the front door for home security.
@@TATVCanada I think it’s been the late 90s since I’ve been to Canada. Went bear hunting a couple times and sure like to get back soon! I just remember the candy bars were 2 to 3 bucks…just about swallowed my 😜 ouch!!! I still have probably 14 bucks Canadian burning a hole in my pocket with a bunch of Looners!
The amount of material removed was extremely small, maybe 0.001" or 2. Also the areas I worked on were mostly mated parts that already undergo a fair bit of wear during normal use, and are designed for this as well as regularly lubricated to resist corrosion.
It's been a long time since I purchased them, but I believe they are made by Norton. I bought them from either midway or brownells... Can't recall now.
Wow it left the factory looking that rough unbelievable. please try to show the rest of the bore if it looked like the Chambers that would be awful, so many nooks for powder residue to hide.
I'll try to in a future video. It's really hard to accurately depict the barrels from the muzzle-end as they're threaded for chokes, which on camera gives the false impression it's rougher than it really is. I'm not sure how to capture a shot below the threading but I'll see what I can come up with.
Thought this channel had been dead for about 3 years, and it looks like you did have a bit of hiatus, but YT must've unsubscribed me in that time (wasn't that so kind of them). I was very treated to see recent stuff on here. Resubscribed (I'll keep checking I am) and excited to see what comes next. Btw, great job on slicking it up. What kind of Competition will you be using it in? Seeing that you've also done a video on a Rossi 92, I'd assume SASS, but I thought that only external hammer SXS were allowed in that, so I'm not sure. Nvm, just watched the Rossi video and heard you say you're doing SASS.
Yeah my job was crazy for years starting with covid, and just kept getting worse after that. Got a new job about a year and a half ago and started prioritizing life VS work. Infinitely better management and work-life balance, so I was able to start making videos again.
A new cocking rod from Gun Parts Co. is $3.52 so I bought a spare and cut mine. Your way gives NO safety at all. My way gives a normal safety, just not automatic.
It's the same/no safety the original coach guns had, but obviously you're welcome to do as you please of course. The reason I showed both methods and explained them was so people can choose whichever one suits them.
@@TATVCanadabut while obvious to most, you neglected to state that there us no longer a functioning safety, pretty important. And yes I get it if someone can't figure that our they shouldn't be modifying a gun but also it's UA-cam
Compressing that spring is by far the most challenging part of this operation. If you're able to get a pin through the hole in the impeller, you should be able to use a pair of soft jaw pliers to slowly (and carefully) rotate the spring, which will compress it for you. I would strongly recommend you wrap the plier Jaws in something like electrical tape to further cushion them and avoid marring the spring.
@@TATVCanada after a few attempts I finally got it. Took an old flathead screwdriver and cut a small notch just wide enough to go around the pin and grab the spring. Had to mount the receiver in my vice to hold it since it required so much force to move the spring. Good video!
Very, very hard to get parts where I live. I literally bought a small cnc mill to make parts for myself and friends because it was easier and cheaper in the long run if you can believe it.
what dremel coarse paste do you use for the polishing? I just used wenol on the action just to loosen it a bit but it , still breaks hard but I can do a one hand flick with some effort , but I was afraid to go into this much detail.. there is a little bar on the triggers that fell off when I took the stock off to cut the spring down. scared me as I didn't see how it was situated and took forever to get it back in (without that part , both hammers drop at the same time)
The first compound is Black Emery; then that gets followed up with a milder jewelers rouge. Sorry to hear about your luck with that part; these things can be intimidating at first. I once took apart the trigger group on a very complicated rifle and spent hours trying to figure out how it went back together again. Now I take pictures of everything when I start so I have something to refer back to!
@@TATVCanada TY .. almost finished my Diemaco series of builds , waiting on the last bit for my L119A1 then they are all done (Sorry you can't have them up North anymore 😪)
Thanks for doing this video. Nicely done. Have you tried firing the gun since you did this? I did the mod to the spring, but only cut off one coil. Now I get light strikes on the second barrel every time. Some online research indicates the gun may be jarring itself open ever so slightly on the first shot, causing light strikes on the second shot. Curious what your experience is with this mod.
@@terryhodgson2357 so far, so good. Although several people have warned/recommended replacing the firing pins with custom longer ones made from harder material.
@TATVCanada it may have just been my gun but the chamber edge was really sharp and and i found if the shells weren't perfectly straight the edge would grab the plastic so i deburred them made a difference imo
The surfaces we addressed were already milled/ground so I don't believe it should have much effect. With that said, I apply a generous amount of oil to them regardless; partly for smooth operation, and partly for protection from corrosion.
@@TATVCanada thanks for the reply, it is a tight fit, might loosen up over time, I have to push it from the top while holding the lever down with significant pressure. A tight fit might not be a bad thing, just annoying to take apart for storage.
@@MrNiceKnife Something you can try if you like; get a bit of emery paste (it's like a polishing compound) and put just a very thin little coating on the parts that are stiff. Remove/reinstall it a few times, and wash/remove the paste. It will allow you polish the surfaces a bit even if you can't necessary see/determine which ones are at fault. Should help loose things up without removing any metal.
@@sempertard It's been a while since I purchased them, but I believe they were from Brownells or Midway USA. If you search either site for 'India Stones' you will find several. Amazon has a number as well.
Unless you really need to remove material, Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish will do magic and can save some time. With that said, man that gun has some ROUGH cast pieces!!!😮
@@jdsolberg7613 Ah I see what you mean. It's not something I show in the video, but I do actually 'wash' them a few times a year in a wet tumbler (no media) with detergent.
@@TATVCanada I hope you didn't take my comment the wrong way. I forget where I saw the reference to the snake, but when they gave their reason for disliking it, it sort of made sense.
Great shotgun by the way. I've got the blued version in 20 gauge and it's definitely a nice gun. Might take your advice on some of the things you did to your's.
If I was using it for recreation, absolutely. In this case though, the firearm in question is specifically employed for competition, and every second counts. As with all things firearms; I'm not necessarily advocating for one method or another, just showing folks what works for me. People can make their own decisions from there.
I AM IMPRESSED. I am not normally impressed. I will only mention that you have two options on the big heavy spring. You clipped the spring. The other option is to make the wire thinner. Chuck it in a drill. Spin and sand/file. In this case, I think I would have clipped one and then thinned the wire.
Thanks very much for your comment, I really appreciate it. I agonized over whether or not to trim or thin it but in this case opted to trim for a couple of reasons. I will absolutely be demonstrating how to thin a spring in an upcoming video specifically addressing the various ways to light leaf and coil springs.
0:38 wow its almost like its NOT MADE for competition. Shocking I know. Then goes on to "I dont want to cut this off because its non reversible"... then cuts a spring non reversible... lol what
Por más que quieran los AMERICANOS NUNCA PODRAN IGUALAR LAS ARMAS EUROPEAS. tendríamos que hablar durante un largo periodo, y no quiero hacerlo. Simplemente tres cosas primero porque tiene los caños tan cortos? Esgundo no está nada bien ajustado el extractor con respecto a la báscula tiene mucho juego y tercero el ángulo de los telones de cierre es distinto tiene mucho más ángulo el primer telón que apoya en la cara de báscula de cierre que la otra que engancha. ERROR FATAL.
I'm actually Canadian VS American. Regarding the short barrels, I wanted something easy to maneuver in short distance competitions. I don't think your third question translated properly as I'm not following?
I impulse bought one this summer and have only used it a few times. I already "fixed"the safety but this gives me all kinds of ideas
Spring is in the air; get er' done.
I last slicked up one of these a year or so ago and it as MUCH less rough than this one. The chambers were a bit below par but an automative brake hone soon fixed that.... makes a lovely job. Most of the opening stiffness is in the fore end fit on most of them.... They come out really well and for the money are hard to beat.
Glad to hear you did well with yours. I've wondered more than a few times whether mine was 'normal' for this gun, or an exceptionally poor example.
I have one as well , blued .410 made in 2013 after I watched this video I took mine apart yours was much rougher .
i cant believe that thing is that rough off the line. nice job on the slick up. my uplander supreme is smooth as shit through a goose, right out the box! i may take the spring down like you did for a little ease but it has a very positive feel to it when it opens and closes. no wiggle side to side.
It's hard to say because I've never worked on another one, but I wondered a few times whether mine was just a particularly rough one.
Well made video and good articulation!
Thank you very much.
Raising the bar here for content, editing, no annoying music, and being easy to follow without CC. btw, I like the spring mod/trim. Slamming shut when one is stiff can't be good for ease of use (HD, skeet, clays, vermin) or longevity of fit & function. Sadly, I've seen too many family relics broken from just playing around vs firing.
Thanks for your feedback; greatly appreciated.
Very informative video. Thank you from the bottom of my heart!
I'm really glad to hear you found it useful. Thanks for the feedback.
Try using a honing brush for the inside fo the barrels gives a nice finish along with smooth barrel function
I was looking at one online a few weeks back, but I so rarely need to perform this function I'm not sure it would get mused much.
Thank you for a good, helpful and educational video. Several valuable and helpful tips.
My pleasure!
Looks nice after the polishing.
Thanks very much!
I use a brake master cylinder hone with ultra fine stones for cleaning up the chambers. Final polish with a felt wheel and jewellers rouge. Very fast and cleans up beautifully.
It's incredible what a difference there is with a bit more finishing work.
@@TATVCanada Agreed, the high brass 3" used to stick in the chamber of the one I just picked up and required a rod to knock them out. Cleaned up the extractor rods and polish the chamber and now the spent husks fall out. I got it for $150 due to this problem.
@@holleyman1970 Congrats on the acquisition 👍 and thanks for the reminder of what a bk-cyl hone can fit diameter-wise. btw, I use various gauge SG 'mops' on a drill with red or white auto polishing compound to smooth up bottle-necked rifle chambers. Rapid plunge action with the coarse red,slow and steady with the 'softer' white. Keeps it wet with drops of odorless mineral spirits vs water. Cheers. 🙂
Great instructional video. I have a blued on and luckily it didn't need as much fixing as yours.
Glad to hear it. I've never seen one of the blued models in person; what's the finish like on the friction surfaces? Are you finding it wears at all, or is it pretty resilient?
@@TATVCanada The finish on mine was really good. It doesn't have any of the cast look or poor reaming. All I had to do was smooth up the ejector rod, cut a couple of coils off the spring, and take a shotgun shell with emory paper wrapped around it to smooth the chambers. They already looked fairly smooth but I wanted a mirror finish. I only messed with it to get the thing to drop open and drop shells out.
I got one of the coach guns on sale years ago and it was ridiculous how gritty everything was out of the box and the fitment of the parts such as the extractor took a lot for work to get working correctly without hanging up . Used a brake hone on the cylinders in steps until I could break open the action and turn over so the spent shells would fall right out . When I started you had to hit the tang lever and literally pry the gun open and same for closing .
When I was done you could press the tang lever and the weight of the barrels will open the action and an upward flick of the wrist will close and lock the action up . Nice little gun now after a little "Sweat Equity"
That's been my experience as well.
The sad part is if you compare a new coach gun to an old one you will quickly see how much better the fit and finish is on the older one. The new ones are atrocious and aren’t worth the price but if you find an old one without the weld, buy it. Great gun and significantly under priced. Thanks for the video, now I need to go through all my newer coach guns that barely open.
I haven't come across many old ones but what you're saying is definitely reflective of the trends in the firearms industry as a whole. The pressure on manufacturers to produce something at a price people are willing (or these days just plain able) to pay is definitely having an effect on quality and production standards.
@TATVcanada, that is very true. Not just for coach guns either. Like my Ithaca Model 37 16 gauge from 1949, it's so perfect outside of hard to replace a barrel. Which can be done at a cost of sacrificing your old one, getting a new adapter in your shotgun and accept a modern barrel from serial number 855,000 on.
But when you feel such a shotgun, shoot it, operate it, or just take it apart, you see the craftsmanship where it counts most. It's butter smooth, accurate, rifle like trigger, everything was made by hand or as a solid piece, NO WELDING OR HEAT added to parts, and even dirty from never being cleaned for 70 years, it still ran perfectly. Better than any Mossberg or Remington I have ever handled. Those guns have rough actions, cheap parts and they all feel different because they are machine made not hand made. By feel different, seriously, stocks over the generations have changed and often feel bulky, especially on 16 gauge and smaller guns.
But you are correct on it all being due to making something affordable. An Ithaca Model 37 Featherlight today, is over $1300 USD, so probably around $1500-$1800 Canadian now. Used, $400 or under minus 20 and 28 gauge models usually, or something rare about them like mint condition or furniture. Or buy a Maverick 88, for still $320 Canadian. Super reliable and great shotguns, but nowhere near the quality of yesteryear.
Sad but oh so true!
I ordered a new spring and parts from Midwestgunworks and the new spring was already less strong as the original and works great for CAS.
Ah beautiful. There are some fantastic third party solutions out there.
Thank you for making this simple to follow video.
My pleasure; glad you found it useful!
Thanks for uploading this video. greetings from germany
My pleasure, and thank you for your comment.
I have one and it's an everyday carry ....city , country, back country....long highway drives
Makes sense as it's a pretty compact yet durable gun.
is there a conversion between a stoeger coach gun and a 2 bore rifle?
What length extension did you need for removal of the stock bolt?
For curves i wrap the sandpaper around a dowel of the appropriate size. Makes it way more even.
A few folks have suggested that and I'll definitely be using it next time.
really enjoyed this series, I have a few turkish made shotguns (mossberg and silver eagle brand) and similar issues / complaints
Glad to see you back you have been one of my favorite channels. I have missed your content brother.
Thanks very much, NYCR. Greatly appreciated as always.
Great Video, Sir...
Thank you kindly
Cheers for the tutorial!
Glad you found it useful.
It would be interesting to find out what casting process is used in
the production of these parts. I would have guessed Lost wax, but
the rough surface looks more like lost foam ?
I definitely don't have the expertise to say, but those both sound possible. I was kind of under the impression most cast parts were rough casts that were hand/machine finished. Many of these appear to have had little finishing work done if any.
@@TATVCanada I was just curious. I've seen other videos of the same model gun that had much better looking components.
Maybe they changed sources and finish requirements ?
@@bill3641 It's entirely possible. Likewise different staff/machines at the factory will make a difference, too. I had a friend who worked in an automotive factory for decades, and he told me first-hand you could tell who was working that day based on what came out the assembly line.
The only part I found odd was the boresnake from the muzzle. Maybe not wanting to spread compound down the rest of the barrel, but disconcerting to see for me.
That’s probably the reason why. And it was also done before the extractor was reinstalled.
Fantastic video!
Thanks a lot, mate.
Love mine just the way it is
Nothing wrong with that, friend. Power to you.
Stoeger imports weapons from all over the world, for example selling Brazilian Boito shotguns like Stoeger in America
I remember 20 years ago you could buy these things for $169 all day long. They were super fun to shoot it, but didn’t come with screw and choke tube so I didn’t have any interest in them since I was mainly using shotguns for predator and turkey hunting. I won a few of the ducks unlimited banquet and just traded them off. I wish I would’ve kept one to leave by the front door for home security.
I was in Canadian tire yesterday looking at a box of 500 rounds of 22lr bulk ammo; $90! I was thinking the same thing "10 years ago that was $40"
@@TATVCanada Ten years ago it was $20 here
@@tripplebeards3427 "Let the good times roll..."
@@TATVCanada I think it’s been the late 90s since I’ve been to Canada. Went bear hunting a couple times and sure like to get back soon! I just remember the candy bars were 2 to 3 bucks…just about swallowed my 😜 ouch!!! I still have probably 14 bucks Canadian burning a hole in my pocket with a bunch of Looners!
You can put metal back, it's called welding, brazing or soldering.
There is zero chance of me welding any of my guns.
Well worth the wait.
Thanks mate I really appreciate it.
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Really like these videos. Could you do a video on the rock island m206?
Unfortunately I don't have access to one.
Cool video how’s it holding up so far? I am thinking of getting one.. they look cool !!😎
No complaints! Plenty of elbow grease getting it set up but I really like it.
They NEED To Do This,
BEFORE It Gets Shipped
Out...
My God, if only.
They would probably tack on at least another 100-150
What about the plating you removed from all the worked areas???
The amount of material removed was extremely small, maybe 0.001" or 2. Also the areas I worked on were mostly mated parts that already undergo a fair bit of wear during normal use, and are designed for this as well as regularly lubricated to resist corrosion.
Mine came out of the box with a loose forestock
Ironically I think that's the only problem mine didn't have.
What brand of stones do you use and where did you purchase them?
It's been a long time since I purchased them, but I believe they are made by Norton. I bought them from either midway or brownells... Can't recall now.
Wow it left the factory looking that rough unbelievable. please try to show the rest of the bore if it looked like the Chambers that would be awful, so many nooks for powder residue to hide.
I'll try to in a future video. It's really hard to accurately depict the barrels from the muzzle-end as they're threaded for chokes, which on camera gives the false impression it's rougher than it really is. I'm not sure how to capture a shot below the threading but I'll see what I can come up with.
great info, thanks
No problem!
i have the standard in 12ga... my fore end release is on so tight i cant get it off lol
Oh wow, that's a problem! All I can suggest there is to try and actuate it a few hundred times to try and wear a bit of material.
Thought this channel had been dead for about 3 years, and it looks like you did have a bit of hiatus, but YT must've unsubscribed me in that time (wasn't that so kind of them). I was very treated to see recent stuff on here. Resubscribed (I'll keep checking I am) and excited to see what comes next.
Btw, great job on slicking it up. What kind of Competition will you be using it in? Seeing that you've also done a video on a Rossi 92, I'd assume SASS, but I thought that only external hammer SXS were allowed in that, so I'm not sure.
Nvm, just watched the Rossi video and heard you say you're doing SASS.
Yeah my job was crazy for years starting with covid, and just kept getting worse after that. Got a new job about a year and a half ago and started prioritizing life VS work. Infinitely better management and work-life balance, so I was able to start making videos again.
How much of the spring did you remove?
3 coils.
A new cocking rod from Gun Parts Co. is $3.52 so I bought a spare and cut mine. Your way gives NO safety at all. My way gives a normal safety, just not automatic.
It's the same/no safety the original coach guns had, but obviously you're welcome to do as you please of course. The reason I showed both methods and explained them was so people can choose whichever one suits them.
Thing is, those old coach guns had rebounding external hammers. The Stoeger uses internal ones where if you forget the safety ...
@@TATVCanadabut while obvious to most, you neglected to state that there us no longer a functioning safety, pretty important. And yes I get it if someone can't figure that our they shouldn't be modifying a gun but also it's UA-cam
Outside hammars will outlast the "cocking rod" by far
You need to replace the factory firing pins with hardened stainless steel ones. The factory ones are soft and will mushroom on you, trust me on this
Interesting; do you have a recommendation for 3rd party pins?
Someone else just brought this up again this evening.
Will this stop the light primer strikes
What brand? Got a link??
@@tamiyatim1389Long Hunter Shooting Supply they have the spanner wrench also to remove firing pins.
No shooting test?
My lock spring absolutely will not budge.
Compressing that spring is by far the most challenging part of this operation. If you're able to get a pin through the hole in the impeller, you should be able to use a pair of soft jaw pliers to slowly (and carefully) rotate the spring, which will compress it for you. I would strongly recommend you wrap the plier Jaws in something like electrical tape to further cushion them and avoid marring the spring.
@@TATVCanada after a few attempts I finally got it. Took an old flathead screwdriver and cut a small notch just wide enough to go around the pin and grab the spring. Had to mount the receiver in my vice to hold it since it required so much force to move the spring.
Good video!
Cut the safety rod and just get a replacement for when you want to restore it back, that way you still have a safety you can use.
Very, very hard to get parts where I live. I literally bought a small cnc mill to make parts for myself and friends because it was easier and cheaper in the long run if you can believe it.
what dremel coarse paste do you use for the polishing? I just used wenol on the action just to loosen it a bit but it , still breaks hard but I can do a one hand flick with some effort , but I was afraid to go into this much detail.. there is a little bar on the triggers that fell off when I took the stock off to cut the spring down. scared me as I didn't see how it was situated and took forever to get it back in (without that part , both hammers drop at the same time)
The first compound is Black Emery; then that gets followed up with a milder jewelers rouge. Sorry to hear about your luck with that part; these things can be intimidating at first. I once took apart the trigger group on a very complicated rifle and spent hours trying to figure out how it went back together again. Now I take pictures of everything when I start so I have something to refer back to!
@@TATVCanada TY .. almost finished my Diemaco series of builds , waiting on the last bit for my L119A1 then they are all done (Sorry you can't have them up North anymore 😪)
Thanks for doing this video. Nicely done. Have you tried firing the gun since you did this? I did the mod to the spring, but only cut off one coil. Now I get light strikes on the second barrel every time. Some online research indicates the gun may be jarring itself open ever so slightly on the first shot, causing light strikes on the second shot. Curious what your experience is with this mod.
@@Droodog127 yeah it was nice while it lasted. Here's hoping the next PM spends more time reviewing gun stats and less time painting his face.
@@terryhodgson2357 so far, so good. Although several people have warned/recommended replacing the firing pins with custom longer ones made from harder material.
I also broke the sharp edge on the chambers
I've talked to a few folks who funneled the chamber mouths. Do you find it makes a substantial difference?
@TATVCanada it may have just been my gun but the chamber edge was really sharp and and i found if the shells weren't perfectly straight the edge would grab the plastic so i deburred them made a difference imo
once the surfaces have been polished, there is no risk of oxidation?
The surfaces we addressed were already milled/ground so I don't believe it should have much effect. With that said, I apply a generous amount of oil to them regardless; partly for smooth operation, and partly for protection from corrosion.
@@TATVCanada What kind of oil do you use?
@@VAPrepper757 Generally Hoppes.
@@TATVCanada Thanks!
Taking the forend off mine is extremely difficult, is this normal on a new one?
Could be the outside diameter on the mating surfaces is too large, making it a tight fit.
@@TATVCanada thanks for the reply, it is a tight fit, might loosen up over time, I have to push it from the top while holding the lever down with significant pressure. A tight fit might not be a bad thing, just annoying to take apart for storage.
@@MrNiceKnife Something you can try if you like; get a bit of emery paste (it's like a polishing compound) and put just a very thin little coating on the parts that are stiff. Remove/reinstall it a few times, and wash/remove the paste. It will allow you polish the surfaces a bit even if you can't necessary see/determine which ones are at fault. Should help loose things up without removing any metal.
Is there a spring in the extractor???? Thought the shells would pop out!!! Come fleung out of the chambers!!!?
🎉flying out!
Nope, no spring assist.
Anybody have any recommendations on the stones?
What specifically? Like manufacturer or where to buy?
@@TATVCanada Manufacturer & Model/Type. Thank you..
@@sempertard It's been a while since I purchased them, but I believe they were from Brownells or Midway USA. If you search either site for 'India Stones' you will find several. Amazon has a number as well.
@@TATVCanada Thanks
Espingarda Boito ( Eramantino ) Brasil 🇧🇷
Who makes stoeger side by side??? Boito??
I believe so.
Unless you really need to remove material, Mothers Mag and Aluminum polish will do magic and can save some time.
With that said, man that gun has some ROUGH cast pieces!!!😮
Mothers is fantastic stuff to be sure, but in this case you'd have been polishing until judgement day ha ha.
After this, there will be no safety, correct?
Correct.
Why did you not show us the rest of the barrels ?
I'm not sure I understand; there are only two?
faltou o alivio do gatilho ...
I'd heard the worst thing for any gun was the use of a Bore Snake, unless you throw it away after each initial use.
I'm not sure why that would be. Can you provide some background?
@@TATVCanada The dirt and whatnot carries over from gun to gun. Maybe if you could wash it, it might help. Maybe soak it in Dawn, and dry it out?
@@jdsolberg7613 Ah I see what you mean. It's not something I show in the video, but I do actually 'wash' them a few times a year in a wet tumbler (no media) with detergent.
@@TATVCanada I hope you didn't take my comment the wrong way. I forget where I saw the reference to the snake, but when they gave their reason for disliking it, it sort of made sense.
Great shotgun by the way. I've got the blued version in 20 gauge and it's definitely a nice gun. Might take your advice on some of the things you did to your's.
An external hammer shotgun has a safety. The hammer(s)
An internal hammer shotgun 100% needs a functioning safety.
If I was using it for recreation, absolutely. In this case though, the firearm in question is specifically employed for competition, and every second counts. As with all things firearms; I'm not necessarily advocating for one method or another, just showing folks what works for me. People can make their own decisions from there.
My cz coach is the same way...tight asf...
Have you found it's loosened up at all with use?
Believe this or not. If you can't find honing oil which i couldn't cuz of my location i've been using olive oil for all my honing projects.
Really? Where do you live? I've bought it from amazon before.
So you took away the guns safety am I following correctly?
Correct.
The stainless IS worse than the blued guns..
bromide bubby, bromide it will help you arrive at the finer finish faster.
Mine didn't look that bad inside.
I think it varies from gun to gun. Mine is probably one of the rougher examples.
Too bad no one makes a shotgun with ejectors anymore.
I think some companies do, but they aren't permitted in most cowboy action competitions.
Ejectors are for field use. Trap, skeet, sporting clays, and cowboy action are all better served by, or require, extractor only.
My collection of old German 100+ year old shotguns, look brand new compared to this unfinished piece of iron😮😮😮
It was definitely disappointing. I can't complain about the materials or even engineering, but it definitely feels 'unfinished'.
I AM IMPRESSED. I am not normally impressed. I will only mention that you have two options on the big heavy spring. You clipped the spring. The other option is to make the wire thinner. Chuck it in a drill. Spin and sand/file. In this case, I think I would have clipped one and then thinned the wire.
Thanks very much for your comment, I really appreciate it. I agonized over whether or not to trim or thin it but in this case opted to trim for a couple of reasons. I will absolutely be demonstrating how to thin a spring in an upcoming video specifically addressing the various ways to light leaf and coil springs.
Actually, a better option on the stuff spring is to use a Ruger Vaquero factory spring cut to the Stoger length. Very smooth.
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
👍👍
cool video. but its lever and Leaver. lol
0:38 wow its almost like its NOT MADE for competition. Shocking I know.
Then goes on to "I dont want to cut this off because its non reversible"... then cuts a spring non reversible... lol what
Bending pins? Bending cast iron pins?
Flushly 😂
If the Prime Minister can say "Moistly", I can say "Flushly".
You Canadians are still allowed to own guns? I thought Castro Jr. would have taken them all by now.
Oh he's trying; don't you worry there.
Khyber Pass quality...Rough edges, poor fitting and finishing, cruel machining...Is ''mother'' Beretta listening?
That is where the corners are cut.
Trimming springs with side cutters? Yikes 😬 sounds like bye bye side cutters
Качество сборки ужасное . 5:28 . 👎
Making Rossi look german, this thing looks like crap
Por más que quieran los AMERICANOS NUNCA PODRAN IGUALAR LAS ARMAS EUROPEAS. tendríamos que hablar durante un largo periodo, y no quiero hacerlo. Simplemente tres cosas primero porque tiene los caños tan cortos? Esgundo no está nada bien ajustado el extractor con respecto a la báscula tiene mucho juego y tercero el ángulo de los telones de cierre es distinto tiene mucho más ángulo el primer telón que apoya en la cara de báscula de cierre que la otra que engancha. ERROR FATAL.
I'm actually Canadian VS American. Regarding the short barrels, I wanted something easy to maneuver in short distance competitions. I don't think your third question translated properly as I'm not following?
Guess that's why yall needed help in ww2?..😂😂😂😂😂😂
Why anyone would buy one of these pieces of junk is anyone's guess.
У меня в деревне зазоры в заборе меньше.