Thanks very much! I'm really, really surprised at how well they've been received. At around 25 hours each to produce, I was initially skeptical they'd be worth the effort so I'm glad to see people are finding them useful. I'm planning on a followup for the Rossi addressing the loading gate and mag tube spring, as well as possibly a slick-up of the Ruger Wrangler and New Vaquero revolvers.
What you've done is akin to silk pursing a sow's ear. Cannot believe all those rough casting burrs left on the internal workings. As a 78 yr old retired machinist with over 55 years of experience; just a couple nits picked here: 1/ the raw ends of your U shaped hammer spring are going to gouge grooves in the contact point of the hammer assy. and create some drag. Rounding those a bit would be good. 2/ instead of cutting 4 coils off a spring, instead cut 3 and lightly face grind the remaining coil on the side of a grinding wheel to heat it and flatten it to the next coil thereby presenting a flat entire circumference of spring contact surface so the spring is not forced into a crooked slide deflection as it compresses.
Thanks so much for your insights, that's high praise coming from an experienced machinist. It's not shown in the video but I did end up rounding the trimmed edge. I am planning on a future video devoted entirely to methods of reducing spring tension on both coil and leaf springs, and will try to remember to include this step. I've often wondered what options there were to flatten a spring face for the DIY-er, so I really appreciate the tip on that. I'm going to be purchasing some generic coil springs one of these days so I can try this and a few other ideas.
This is one of, if not, the best gunsmithing tutorial on UA-cam, very professional - Congratulations 👍👍👍 Just my two cents: miroir polishing the hammer front face reduce again the effort when you load the rifle.
Great video. I'm on my 3rd rossi lever gun. Already completed some of the slicking during my last cleaning. Works much better even without the spring kit. Don't let the tang spring get away from you, it's a two man job getting that thing back on there....lol
I've got an upcoming video all about the different methods of lightening different types of springs. You may find it more useful as one of the options is to thin the existing trigger leaf VS replace it with the wire version.
Nice vid. I've been doing this since i had my first gun at 15. I've always been intuitive about these things. Evey one of my guns get completely reworked. Now i own a 4m dollar machine shop and build my own for fun.
I bought a Rossi 92 Blued model and was expecting the worst after your video. To my surprise it was actually very smooth and finished internally much better than your stainless model. I bought the spring kit but decided not to use it just yet, I'll wait to see how it performs. Putting it back together was a bit of a challenge, getting the bolt pin back in required using the punch in the off side to lever a bit of downward pressure on the bolt to line everything up. Taking your time and working through it is important in reassembly.
I'm pleased to hear you found yours in better shape. Having only ever worked on my own, it can be often to tell if something is a one-off, or more large spread.
So I picked up my new R92 357 triple black the other week and got out and shot it. It’s been 5 months coming. They sent me a new one after not being able to repair the original I bought in December. Anyway I ordered a spring kit after the first day of shooting and installed them all tonight. The ejector spring took me some time to seat and to realize the spent cartridge with finger pressure was needed to keep it all in place. The video made it look like just putting the cartridge in the bolt would hold it all together. lol. I have to say my bolt machining is way nicer than the one on this video. Every surface is smooth. No burs. The spring kit definitely lightened everything up. The action feels like there is very little resistance. Very loose in the action, like gun is older and big time broken in. Trigger is super light as well. A full round of 357 ejects and just clears gun due to weight. So a casing will be perfect. The lever spring is just strong enough to hold the lever in place. Not sure I like it that loose. A little shake and it falls open a bit. I may put the original lever spring back in. Time will tell. 😂 Anyway it really is a drastic change.
Glad to hear you got it all back together again ok. You're right about the bolt/cartridge case; it's a delicate reassembly that's unfortunately somewhat difficult to film and articulate well on camera. Took me more than a few tries to get it right too, believe me.
It’s a great video. Was perfect for disassembly and spring replacement. One other thing I noticed is the trigger spring placement makes all the difference when wanting a higher poundage pull or a lower poundage pull. So people wanting more can make the adjustment by moving the spring further forward up the ramp.
Great disassembly/assembly video. I would caution anyone going inside a rifle for the first time to take it slowly and in multiple steps. Figure out where parts move against each other and only concentrate on smoothing those surfaces. Think in terms of polishing, NOT removing material. (I learned that the hard way 😖). Operating the action a bunch of times before going inside will leave marks to show you what needs to be polished. If there is a rough surface that makes assembly very difficult, go ahead and touch it up just enough to facilitate assembly. It doesn’t need to look perfect - it just needs to run well.
@@TATVCanadayou didn’t mention smoothing the locking lugs at all. Was that because of the potential to increase headspace? IOW there are some surfaces there that are OK to touch while others *MUST* be left alone to avoid BAD THINGS happening when you pull the trigger.
Well shoot. Now I guess I have to buy one to try all of these processes...as the first one I bought several years back just got shot thousands of rounds until it smoothed out. Looking forward to the the loading gate & tube video. That's probably my only minor remaining issue with my current one, I feel like the gate could be better.
Absolutely worth the money. It's got issues, but they're cheap and easy to resolve. I say go for it. I'll be addressing the loading port and mag spring in a future video.
Machinist of 35 years here and yes that bolt etc was some kind of ugly. I have a 92 carbine in 45 colt and I will be doing this to mine, thanks for the upload!👍
Thanks for the video. I purchased one 2 months ago. 20" 357 stainless - My seems to be real smooth acting. The only issue I have is the gate is hard to push in all the way and there was a burr right under where the bullet goes in. Simple file removed the burr. Have not shot it yet as the waeather went south here. Hoping for 1 more warm enough day to test it out.
Trouble with the loading port is a fairly common complaint with these. Mine isn't actually too bad, but I am still planning a future video on addressing loading issues including the port and mag tube spring. Glad to hear yours is working well. They are nice guns for the money and I'm sure there's some variation in them from one to the next.
Seeing how rough the inside of this Rossi is makes me glad I paid an few hundred more for a Chiappa 1892. The latter is also a faithful copy of the Winchester so parts are interchangeable with the original.
Thanks for the video! The only issue I had, aside from the ejector, was the pin for the bolt and lever. I thought i did something wrong, but i just hadn't pushed the pin far enough in.
It's funny too because you'll work on one gun and the pin seems so loose it will fall through if it's not under tension, then on another you'll swear somethings out of place because of how difficult it is to seat. Firearms can be very finicky!
I just subbed to your channel because this article had some of the information I was looking for. Very good article and I am REALLY looking forward to theVideo about How and where to remove Metal from the Loading gate and How much Magazine spring I can remove and still get reliable functioning. I use mine with 38 Special as well,low recoil and mild report. Mine is the Stainless 16 inch barrel ,although I am in my sixties I was Like a kid in a candy store while I was looking at the different models. I like to do my own work on my gun's ,have always enjoyed doing this. I am not a competitor just an occasional Plinker. Thank's for the good video
That's for your comment, glad you found the video helpful. It's definitely impressive how many choices they have; you would almost think the retooling costs would limit them but clearly the manufacturer found a way to make it work. The mag tube and loading gate video is in the works but will likely be a while yet as it's a few places back in line.
Just bought a r92 triple black in 44 mag for hunting that struggles to cycle anything but flat nosed rounds (chews up hornady ftx rounds and cycles them properly every 1 in 10 times) really hoping a good "slicking up" will help. Thanks for the video!
Some tubular magazine firearms do have a habit of struggling with certain types of Ammo. A couple suggestions if I may: 1. If you have a vernier caliper, check your cartridge lengths. The hornady Ammo you're using may be outside (or at least at the high end) of spec. I've found shorter Ammo tends to work better in situations like these. Being you've got a 44m, try some 44s just for comparison. If you're a reloader, you can also try seating your bullets deeper or trying a different style of bullet (which it sounds like you already have/are). 2. Take a look at part 2 of this series, specifically the section on docking the mag spring. An overly powerful magazine tube spring can interfere with proper cycling of longer cartridges. If you live in the US, you can actually buy 3rd party mag springs very cheaply ($20-$25). They're a solid investment if you want to try docking the mag spring without risking your stock one.
You missed several areas, the hammer spring strut on mine was rough, I smoothed it. I polished the inside faces of my locking blocks, to front and back to make them sloppy and change headspace but inside faces. Also my ejector and its spring colar were rough as a cob.
My magazine tube had heavy burrs on the inside where they drilled into it for the rear barrel band. It would occasionally bind up and prevent feeding as rims hooked on the burr. Coarse sandpaper on a flap rod inside the tube fixed that problem.
I want to make it clear that the R92 I picked up last week (May 2024) has a smooth bolt and smooth finish internally. No milling marks or burs. So maybe newer firearms being delivered are finished better.
It's gratifying to hear that; Rossi has some really great products and I definitely want to see them succeed. Hopefully your rifle is a better example of what they are capable of than mine.
If you shorten (I prefer replace with similar, but shorter length) ejector spring collar you can address "ejecting cases to the neighbor county" problem for free.
Excellent video in terms of content and video quality. I have the .454 Casull model and will do some of the work you've shown but not sure about a 1.5 pound trigger on that much power.
I’ll be taking possession of a Rossi r92 soon and am debating between doing this and simply spending a weekend cycling the action. Though I won’t get the lighter trigger, which I’m not really interested in anyway, I suspect that Rossi and others cut corners on machining because they know the action will smooth out over time. On the hammer spring, I don’t see much value in lightening it. I’ve done it for double action revolvers but this doesn’t make as much sense to me.
THANK YOU! I've watched this twice already and will be watching it again when I "slick up" my R92. I'm hoping to get this video stored elsewhere before the censors stumble onto it.
I have watched several of these videos (assembly/disassembly) and I have noticed that no one seems to use gun grease even though there is tons of metal to metal contact. I use 130-Aa on my M1 and it makes a world of difference on the smoothness of the action. Wondering if the service manual only calls for oil on lever actions? Fantastically shot video btw, that bolt was so rough, I would have probably returned the rifle for exchange.
I agonize over what type of oil to use as on the one hand you want something thick enough to not immediately wear off, but on the other hand you don't want it drying out and caking on. I tend to use thinner oil or even aerosol oils on guns I use frequently as I can always reapply. Firearms I'm going to use infrequently or plan to store for a long period typically get grease. You are correct that was a rough bolt, but in my case I can afford time to improve it more than money to replace it.
Lucas gun oil and Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner Dry Lube are all I ever need for cowboy action guns. I hate grease on cowboy guns, the only exception being black powder shooters. There's sometimes no choice for them.
Brian Enos slide guide is what I lubed the bolt with and other moving parts. I love the stuff. Make the action so nice on the R92 and all the other firearms I put it on. It’s a semi thick gel like lube and stays were you put it. I have only ever used the lite lube, White and green tube. They make a standard that is thicker, comes in the white and red tube. Stuff is awesome.
I agonized over whether or not to include it in this video and finally decided not to. This one was already 11 minutes long, and if I included the loading port, I'd have wanted to add the magazine spring, too. The plan is to cover both in a future video specifically aimed at the magazine/loading elements of the rifle.
@@TATVCanada- A whole 11 minutes huh lol nothing wrong with longer videos, I regularly watch videos that are 20 min - 1.5hr+ long and anywhere in between.. different strokes for different folks I guess
@@TATVCanada that’s the beauty of an R92. You can slick it up to your liking. Henrys and other are nice but you wouldnt want to mess em up after paying a ton for em. R92’s allow you that customization
The ejector spring won't affect the trigger pull. The actual trigger pull weight is controlled primarily by the trigger spring, and to some extent the finish of the trigger and related pin.
awesome video, appreciate the effort and information. i am a pretty new gun owner, just got my r92 in 357 mag and took it out to the range one time. i love it but i have basically no standards as its only my second gun. i do enjoy the zen of dismantling and cleaning my guns, but would you recommend doing this if i am purely a recreational shooter? or is this mostly for competition?
I'm not exactly a master marksman myself, but one thing that's definitely helped me improve is working on my own guns. It not only allows you to tailor things to your personal preferences, but also gives you a much better understanding of how they work, which has a greater impact on performance than you'd think. Even if you don't opt to tear it completely apart as shown in the video, I definitely would encourage you to at least open it up and have a look. There are a lot of things you can do with this firearm that require very little in the way of tools or training.
Great job! I will definitely be doing this once I get my hands on the 454 I'm wanting. And yes as a machinest the finish on those parts makes me cringe!
If we keep making excuses for horrible quality control, companys will continue to provide us with crap. I've owned several genuine Winchester model 92 carbines and one Rossi. One Rossi told me all I need to know.
I sympathize a lot with that statement. I used to have an economics professor who would say we vote with our dollars more than our ballots. In my case there aren't a lot of options here, the price difference was substantial, and to some extent I knew what I was getting into. Given the choice between a Rossi or a Henry for example, I'd certainly take the Henry; but I'm in a Rossi tax bracket ;)
Great video and I'm sure you've covered it, but you should put in a quick warning to use purpose built hollow ground screwdrivers that are designed for work on objects like this. They have a hollow ground bit and bite into the screw head cutting down on the possibility of an OOPS and scratching the living crap out of your pretty item...
Awesome video. I have a question, do you think I can get the action to be more smooth just by racking it over and over many times without doing this slicking process?
Question. I followed these instructions in their entirety. including installing the Lee's Gunsmithing spring kit. Essentially, step by step to the video. NOW, the bolt/lever is EXTREMELY difficult to cycle. Trigger pull weight is 1lb 12oz on average. Its just the dang bolt or lever. Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance! 🤙
Hmmm... Do you see any signs of overly tight fit around the locking lugs? It sounds like there's some serious friction somewhere. Does the stiffness persist through the entire action opening, or just part of it; like it's 'clearing' at a certain point?
If you have any machinists blue or even a sharpie I would mark the various mating surfaces and then cycle the action a few times. If there's a lot of friction anywhere it will quickly wear through and you should be able to recognize it pretty easily. That might at least give you an idea where things are binding.
Great video, thank you. Couple questions. First, did you clean off all the existing oil before smoothing the edges with something like mineral spirits? Could one use sand paper instead of the India stones, and if so what grit? What type lubricating oil do you favor when reassembling the gun?
I wiped the surfaces of any packing grease more for convenience than practicality; the honing oil is pretty slick anyways so I didn't see much reason in cleaning it further. You can definitely use sandpaper (600 grit is a good starter). I like India stones because they're perfectly straight, which helps preserve any crisp lines or angles present. Once you're done smoothing things with the 600 just switch it to 1,000-2,000 to remove any score marks and polish. For oil I like hoppes or butches for moving parts. They're both fairly standard gun oils. If something is a particularly tight fit and relatively stationary you may want to consider a thinner aerosol oil; they provide good corrosion resistance without drying/hardening which is great if you don't frequently disassemble the firearm.
The gate/dust shield and spring tension will be the next thing I do. My gate looks to be a tad too long because it catches on the frame and doesn’t come up all the way. I will need to take a little material off the end.
Hello, I wanted a lever action rifle for some time and after looking around, and your great vid, I am planning to buy one 16" R92 in 45LC. But is there someone on Amazon or Ebay selling the reduced tension kits and stainless followers? Need them imported to EU. Also is it possible to fit 9 rounds of 45LC in the tube mag by reducing spring and maintain proper feeding? Thank you for answers.
I can't really comment on the capacity in 45lc as I don't own one to compare. Regarding the parts kits; I've never seen them for sale on Amazon, but I feel your pain as a non-us resident. I've had friends in the states order and then ship me things before, not sure if you know anyone there but it's my preferred method.
Thank you for reply. Sadly no, I don't have a friend in US that could ship it to me. I saw a stainless follower on ebay, though sold out. Well, I have to wait anyway. They only have blued ones here, stainless are on the way, still tempted by the blued 16" thou. Since Marlins are gone, Henries are rare and way overpriced here. I was choosing between this Rossi and Pedersoni 1886 in 45-70 gov. But later cost 40% more and ammo is 2,5x more/round. So Rossi won.
Thank you for the video! But wow, the bolt rails were somehow cut off before where the mortises are cut into the bolt... the ends of those rails are supposed to be part of the locking surfaces on the bolt where it pushes against the locking bars. I know Rossis have been hit or miss but this might be the biggest QC blunder I've seen on one.
I'm about to buy this spring kit but am wondering, have you had any issues of the reduced tension spring causing failures to fire.. as in "light primer strike"? I don't know there's a dedicated fp spring or where it is but I have to wonder about that. Great video, btw!
I haven't had any issues with light primer strikes on this particular firearm, but I have experienced that issue in some other guns, mostly revolvers. I'm going to be addressing it in a later video but for some firearms you can buy an extended firing pin. It's maybe only 0.005" longer, but it's enough to compensate.
I have a genuine question. I plan to get one of these rifle in 454 casull as a do-all go anywhere in North America and protect me and mine from everything rifle. I absolutely HATE the safety up on top of the action. Is there ANY way whatsoever to eliminate that and replace it with a tang safety like a mossberg has? I still want to have a safety present on the rifle, and tang safeties are great. Thank you much.
Not to plug a competitor, but Steve's Gunz sells a rear peep that replaces that ill-conceived safety very simply. It saved me from buying a Williams as I have for all my other leverguns.
For all of you wanting a higher trigger pull weight than 1.5 with the new spring provided. There’s an easy solution. The spring provided is actually longer and allows for movement forward or rearward. The more you move the spring forward, the further up the trigger ramp the spring goes, increasing trigger pull. The further rearward on the ramp, the lighter the pull. So anyone can use the new spring provided and obtain a higher trigger pull/weight by where you place the two prongs of the spring on the trigger ramp. When you dive into replacement you will see what I’m describing.
Without access to the original manufacturer's diagrams, it's going to be difficult to make an exact measurement. However, much of how a firearm operates is relative to the preferences of the user. In my case, I wanted a smoother, lighter action that is easier to fire. The best advice I can give you is to to start by smoothing out areas that are obviously rough, or burred, and then reassemble/test. Work slowly, remove as little material as possible, and stop when you've reached what you feel is the ideal operation.
I'm sure it can be done, but we're removing only a few thousands of an inch of material. I would be concerned about either removing too much, or accidentally messing up the angle.
My R92 was at least 10 times rougher than yours inside and couldn't eject until I replaced the ejector spring. One of the guide rail plates had a burr on it that was 1.5" long and wide enough to cover a quarter. It was folded back over the rail and squished in place. And by 1.5", I don't mean 1.5" of burred edge, I mean it stuck out 1.5". I mean it was like two of the original trigger springs side by side, but much thinner. A huge piece of metal.
How soon before you drop a video on the loading gate, and anything else to slick up a Rossi. BTW your video's always have great content. Thanks' keep up the great work
Thanks for your question! I am planning to release a part two addressing both the loading gate and mag screw. I'm just way, way behind. This one was filmed back in August if you can believe it.
Wouldn't it also be necessary to polish the inside edges on the receiver so that the machining marks on the inside don't just gouge new marks in the bolt?
That would be ideal yes, however as both surfaces are made from the same material, the amount of deformation imparted on one from the other will be somewhat mitigated. The original surface imperfections were caused primarily by the machining process which uses much harder cutting tools (usually carbide). In a more practical sense it's also just a lot harder to polish the channels on the receiver than the external surfaces of the bolt and lower tang.
Sometimes that's just a 'safety/display' thing. Sometimes it's because the store owners get sick of listening to customers opening and closing the actions a hundred times, ha ha.
Just did all this the 1.5lb trigger is super light ill have to get used to it and the casings don't go flying anymore so I might be able to find them all lol
I’d like something a little heavier. Not much. Maybe 2.5 or 3 pound. 1.5 is really light. I had a couple of unintentional discharges while working the lever at the range in my drills. Who’s the 3rd party you mentioned?
hi, to you ‼️ i would ask to you a simple question, that your carbine has it not the safety lever to avoid to firing out battery ... ❓ i don't see any safety under the lever on the bottom of handle stock rear the trigger ... 🤔🙁
@@TATVCanada, hi, to you ‼️ thankyou for your answer, i think that your carbine without the safety lever, there was in every original 92 winchester carbine, it is very dangerous because it can fires out battery when the bolt is unlocked, you can t imagine what's happen If it happens, i think it is a bad work by rossi gun maker, bye bye
There's a few other parts like the trigger pin, the locking bolts etc that probably would make some difference. The main reason I didn't do much with those was the machining on them was far, far better than that of the bolt and lower tang. At 11 minutes for this video, I wanted to focus on the low hanging fruit, but you could definitely still address some other parts.
@@TATVCanada thank you. This video great and thorough. You could possibly break the different areas down into different videos as well. Like you've mentioned, doing the magazine in another. Great work!
@@spikex41 Apologies I usually include this stuff in details, but clearly I missed that here. It's show at 0:39 in; Lee Gunsmithing Gunslinger Kit for Rossi 92
Just for a few seconds at 10min 20 second he had a left side loading door . I know this is no where the same rifle as mine , I would like to tear my Western Auto 30-30 apart to see how well it was machined in I think it was 1974 .
I didn't even notice it until you pointed it out but yes, I inverted the camera angle vertically so that viewers could see it 'right side up' when I was holding it 'down' due to my positioning relative to the camera. I should have also mirrored the image horizontally to account for that, but clearly missed it. Wish I'd caught that!
The machine work gave me anxiety. There's no way you can possibly remove enough to smooth this mechanism out without absolutely destroying the tolerances.. Now I'm absolutely terrified to disassembly my marlin. Maybe I'll just leave it in the safe and buy a higher quality rifle..
… I’ve owned both and the Chiappa 92 is a lot slicker out of the box albeit more expensive than the Rossi 92 … and the Chiappa doesn’t have that stupid pigtail safety on top of the bolt
@@TATVCanada … but to my knowledge Henry doesn’t make a Win 92 clone to date … they just make Marlin clones … Henry grabbed a lot of Marlins market share during the Remlin garbage gun years
great video, it is a shame that this amount of work is needed to get a gun to where jt should have been out kf the factory but I guess a benefit is that they left you plenty of fat to trim.
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't disappointed at how rough the internals were. I have some machining background and even to a novice like myself it was obvious how poor the manufacturing standards were for some of these parts. The good news is that the only parts that require replacement (the springs) are cheap; everything else is just labour. Youre not wrong about the loading port; I will be covering work on that and the mag tube spring in a future video as this one was just getting too long.
My new R92 picked up a few weeks ago (May 2024) has smooth milling. No rough milling cuts or burrs. It’s a really nice finish. I left it as is and just did the spring kit. Maybe newer builds are being finished nicer.
You will be pleased to know I just finished recording for part 2 (which includes the gate, mag spring and mag follower). Should be posted in about a week.
Maybe don’t showcase cutting the springs…. This video is great but normal people that don’t understand exactly what they’re doing will try that and will screw it up
You gotta keep this “slicking up”series going
Thanks very much! I'm really, really surprised at how well they've been received. At around 25 hours each to produce, I was initially skeptical they'd be worth the effort so I'm glad to see people are finding them useful. I'm planning on a followup for the Rossi addressing the loading gate and mag tube spring, as well as possibly a slick-up of the Ruger Wrangler and New Vaquero revolvers.
That's one I would really like to see. @@TATVCanada
@@OhioCruffler I just finished recording the audio about 15 minutes ago; I hope to have part 2 published Monday or Tuesday.
What you've done is akin to silk pursing a sow's ear. Cannot believe all those rough casting burrs left on the internal workings. As a 78 yr old retired machinist with over 55 years of experience; just a couple nits picked here: 1/ the raw ends of your U shaped hammer spring are going to gouge grooves in the contact point of the hammer assy. and create some drag. Rounding those a bit would be good. 2/ instead of cutting 4 coils off a spring, instead cut 3 and lightly face grind the remaining coil on the side of a grinding wheel to heat it and flatten it to the next coil thereby presenting a flat entire circumference of spring contact surface so the spring is not forced into a crooked slide deflection as it compresses.
Thanks so much for your insights, that's high praise coming from an experienced machinist. It's not shown in the video but I did end up rounding the trimmed edge. I am planning on a future video devoted entirely to methods of reducing spring tension on both coil and leaf springs, and will try to remember to include this step.
I've often wondered what options there were to flatten a spring face for the DIY-er, so I really appreciate the tip on that. I'm going to be purchasing some generic coil springs one of these days so I can try this and a few other ideas.
This is one of, if not, the best gunsmithing tutorial on UA-cam, very professional - Congratulations 👍👍👍
Just my two cents: miroir polishing the hammer front face reduce again the effort when you load the rifle.
Thanks very much, I appreciate the feedback!
Great video. I'm on my 3rd rossi lever gun. Already completed some of the slicking during my last cleaning. Works much better even without the spring kit. Don't let the tang spring get away from you, it's a two man job getting that thing back on there....lol
If you think that springs bad, try working with the stock one on a Ruger wrangler! I think I can skip the gym for a week.
Best damn tutorial I've seen in the rossi 92. Liked and subscribed. Thank you for taking time to film, edit and post this video.
Thank you very much, sir. I appreciate it.
Nice job explaining this procedure. Im not a rifle guy but have done this with my pistols. Makes a very nice difference
I've done many revolvers but never a pistol. I should probably try I suppose.
You just got 3 QA inspectors fired...
Excellent tutorial. Trigger pull is lighter than I would want, but I am not in the comp shooting game.
I've got an upcoming video all about the different methods of lightening different types of springs. You may find it more useful as one of the options is to thin the existing trigger leaf VS replace it with the wire version.
My older 92 has no safety and is slick enough for my needs from the factory. Nice to know how to dis-assemble it if I ever need to. Nice video.
Nice vid. I've been doing this since i had my first gun at 15. I've always been intuitive about these things. Evey one of my guns get completely reworked. Now i own a 4m dollar machine shop and build my own for fun.
I bought a Rossi 92 Blued model and was expecting the worst after your video. To my surprise it was actually very smooth and finished internally much better than your stainless model. I bought the spring kit but decided not to use it just yet, I'll wait to see how it performs. Putting it back together was a bit of a challenge, getting the bolt pin back in required using the punch in the off side to lever a bit of downward pressure on the bolt to line everything up. Taking your time and working through it is important in reassembly.
I'm pleased to hear you found yours in better shape. Having only ever worked on my own, it can be often to tell if something is a one-off, or more large spread.
Thank you for the time and effort that you have put into making this video. Very well done and very useful.
I really appreciate that; I often wonder what people will or won't find useful so it's great to hear back.
So I picked up my new R92 357 triple black the other week and got out and shot it. It’s been 5 months coming. They sent me a new one after not being able to repair the original I bought in December. Anyway I ordered a spring kit after the first day of shooting and installed them all tonight. The ejector spring took me some time to seat and to realize the spent cartridge with finger pressure was needed to keep it all in place. The video made it look like just putting the cartridge in the bolt would hold it all together. lol. I have to say my bolt machining is way nicer than the one on this video. Every surface is smooth. No burs. The spring kit definitely lightened everything up. The action feels like there is very little resistance. Very loose in the action, like gun is older and big time broken in. Trigger is super light as well. A full round of 357 ejects and just clears gun due to weight. So a casing will be perfect. The lever spring is just strong enough to hold the lever in place. Not sure I like it that loose. A little shake and it falls open a bit. I may put the original lever spring back in. Time will tell. 😂 Anyway it really is a drastic change.
Glad to hear you got it all back together again ok. You're right about the bolt/cartridge case; it's a delicate reassembly that's unfortunately somewhat difficult to film and articulate well on camera. Took me more than a few tries to get it right too, believe me.
It’s a great video. Was perfect for disassembly and spring replacement. One other thing I noticed is the trigger spring placement makes all the difference when wanting a higher poundage pull or a lower poundage pull. So people wanting more can make the adjustment by moving the spring further forward up the ramp.
Great disassembly/assembly video. I would caution anyone going inside a rifle for the first time to take it slowly and in multiple steps. Figure out where parts move against each other and only concentrate on smoothing those surfaces. Think in terms of polishing, NOT removing material. (I learned that the hard way 😖). Operating the action a bunch of times before going inside will leave marks to show you what needs to be polished. If there is a rough surface that makes assembly very difficult, go ahead and touch it up just enough to facilitate assembly.
It doesn’t need to look perfect - it just needs to run well.
Sage advice.
@@TATVCanadayou didn’t mention smoothing the locking lugs at all. Was that because of the potential to increase headspace? IOW there are some surfaces there that are OK to touch while others *MUST* be left alone to avoid BAD THINGS happening when you pull the trigger.
Thanks. This changed my mind about buying this.
Glad to hear you found it useful.
Well shoot. Now I guess I have to buy one to try all of these processes...as the first one I bought several years back just got shot thousands of rounds until it smoothed out.
Looking forward to the the loading gate & tube video. That's probably my only minor remaining issue with my current one, I feel like the gate could be better.
Absolutely worth the money. It's got issues, but they're cheap and easy to resolve. I say go for it.
I'll be addressing the loading port and mag spring in a future video.
Machinist of 35 years here and yes that bolt etc was some kind of ugly. I have a 92 carbine in 45 colt and I will be doing this to mine, thanks for the upload!👍
Thanks for the video. I purchased one 2 months ago. 20" 357 stainless - My seems to be real smooth acting. The only issue I have is the gate is hard to push in all the way and there was a burr right under where the bullet goes in. Simple file removed the burr. Have not shot it yet as the waeather went south here. Hoping for 1 more warm enough day to test it out.
Trouble with the loading port is a fairly common complaint with these. Mine isn't actually too bad, but I am still planning a future video on addressing loading issues including the port and mag tube spring.
Glad to hear yours is working well. They are nice guns for the money and I'm sure there's some variation in them from one to the next.
I bought my 44 mag 16in about 2 months ago. The machining is perfect. Rossi has really improved the quality of their firearms in recent years.
Boy you make that new ejector spring install look so easy. Mine just wont stay in while sliding in even with an empty case.
For what it's worth, it wasn't easy for me either. The magic of editing!
Looks like a nice winter project!
Seeing how rough the inside of this Rossi is makes me glad I paid an few hundred more for a Chiappa 1892. The latter is also a faithful copy of the Winchester so parts are interchangeable with the original.
Never owned one, but heard good things. I know Henry's are quite well regarded.
Thanks for the video! The only issue I had, aside from the ejector, was the pin for the bolt and lever. I thought i did something wrong, but i just hadn't pushed the pin far enough in.
It's funny too because you'll work on one gun and the pin seems so loose it will fall through if it's not under tension, then on another you'll swear somethings out of place because of how difficult it is to seat. Firearms can be very finicky!
I just subbed to your channel because this article had some of the information I was looking for.
Very good article and I am REALLY looking forward to theVideo about How and where to remove Metal from the Loading gate and How much Magazine spring I can remove and still get reliable functioning.
I use mine with 38 Special as well,low recoil and mild report.
Mine is the Stainless 16 inch barrel ,although I am in my sixties I was Like a kid in a candy store while I was looking at the different models.
I like to do my own work on my gun's ,have always enjoyed doing this.
I am not a competitor just an occasional Plinker.
Thank's for the good video
That's for your comment, glad you found the video helpful. It's definitely impressive how many choices they have; you would almost think the retooling costs would limit them but clearly the manufacturer found a way to make it work. The mag tube and loading gate video is in the works but will likely be a while yet as it's a few places back in line.
Thanks,looking forward to them@@TATVCanada
Just bought a r92 triple black in 44 mag for hunting that struggles to cycle anything but flat nosed rounds (chews up hornady ftx rounds and cycles them properly every 1 in 10 times) really hoping a good "slicking up" will help. Thanks for the video!
Some tubular magazine firearms do have a habit of struggling with certain types of Ammo. A couple suggestions if I may: 1. If you have a vernier caliper, check your cartridge lengths. The hornady Ammo you're using may be outside (or at least at the high end) of spec. I've found shorter Ammo tends to work better in situations like these. Being you've got a 44m, try some 44s just for comparison. If you're a reloader, you can also try seating your bullets deeper or trying a different style of bullet (which it sounds like you already have/are).
2. Take a look at part 2 of this series, specifically the section on docking the mag spring. An overly powerful magazine tube spring can interfere with proper cycling of longer cartridges. If you live in the US, you can actually buy 3rd party mag springs very cheaply ($20-$25). They're a solid investment if you want to try docking the mag spring without risking your stock one.
You missed several areas, the hammer spring strut on mine was rough, I smoothed it. I polished the inside faces of my locking blocks, to front and back to make them sloppy and change headspace but inside faces. Also my ejector and its spring colar were rough as a cob.
Excellent video! It is very detailed and easy to understand. Congrats👍👍
Thank you so much.
My magazine tube had heavy burrs on the inside where they drilled into it for the rear barrel band. It would occasionally bind up and prevent feeding as rims hooked on the burr.
Coarse sandpaper on a flap rod inside the tube fixed that problem.
I'm glad you brought that up as I'm planning on a part two specifically to address the loading gate and mag tube.
I own 3 Rossi rifles and love them ! Great video
Thanks very much, friend.
I want to make it clear that the R92 I picked up last week (May 2024) has a smooth bolt and smooth finish internally. No milling marks or burs. So maybe newer firearms being delivered are finished better.
It's gratifying to hear that; Rossi has some really great products and I definitely want to see them succeed. Hopefully your rifle is a better example of what they are capable of than mine.
If you shorten (I prefer replace with similar, but shorter length) ejector spring collar you can address "ejecting cases to the neighbor county" problem for free.
very very good video. Thank you for publishing this.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Excellent video in terms of content and video quality.
I have the .454 Casull model and will do some of the work you've shown but not sure about a 1.5 pound trigger on that much power.
There at either spring kits out there with varying levels of tension. I'm sure you'll be able to find one that suits your preferences.
I’ll be taking possession of a Rossi r92 soon and am debating between doing this and simply spending a weekend cycling the action. Though I won’t get the lighter trigger, which I’m not really interested in anyway, I suspect that Rossi and others cut corners on machining because they know the action will smooth out over time.
On the hammer spring, I don’t see much value in lightening it. I’ve done it for double action revolvers but this doesn’t make as much sense to me.
I'd say try it first and if it breaks in, fantastic, if not, you can work on it any time.
Carabina Rossi/CBC, calibre 44 Magnum, de 16 polegadas!
Muito boa sensacional.
THANK YOU! I've watched this twice already and will be watching it again when I "slick up" my R92. I'm hoping to get this video stored elsewhere before the censors stumble onto it.
Glad it was helpful. I just finished recording the audio for part this evening. It will be releasing some time this week.
@@TATVCanada I have my notification bell on and look forward to it.
I have watched several of these videos (assembly/disassembly) and I have noticed that no one seems to use gun grease even though there is tons of metal to metal contact. I use 130-Aa on my M1 and it makes a world of difference on the smoothness of the action. Wondering if the service manual only calls for oil on lever actions? Fantastically shot video btw, that bolt was so rough, I would have probably returned the rifle for exchange.
I agonize over what type of oil to use as on the one hand you want something thick enough to not immediately wear off, but on the other hand you don't want it drying out and caking on. I tend to use thinner oil or even aerosol oils on guns I use frequently as I can always reapply. Firearms I'm going to use infrequently or plan to store for a long period typically get grease.
You are correct that was a rough bolt, but in my case I can afford time to improve it more than money to replace it.
Lucas gun oil and Hornady One Shot Gun Cleaner Dry Lube are all I ever need for cowboy action guns. I hate grease on cowboy guns, the only exception being black powder shooters. There's sometimes no choice for them.
Brian Enos slide guide is what I lubed the bolt with and other moving parts. I love the stuff. Make the action so nice on the R92 and all the other firearms I put it on. It’s a semi thick gel like lube and stays were you put it. I have only ever used the lite lube, White and green tube. They make a standard that is thicker, comes in the white and red tube. Stuff is awesome.
👍 I was hoping you would have addressed The loading port they are typically pretty rough
I agonized over whether or not to include it in this video and finally decided not to. This one was already 11 minutes long, and if I included the loading port, I'd have wanted to add the magazine spring, too. The plan is to cover both in a future video specifically aimed at the magazine/loading elements of the rifle.
@@TATVCanada- A whole 11 minutes huh lol nothing wrong with longer videos, I regularly watch videos that are 20 min - 1.5hr+ long and anywhere in between.. different strokes for different folks I guess
Great Presentation. I have the same gun, someday soon I will gather up the nerve to do this.
I think you'll be pleased with the results.
Thank you sir. Helped us out a lot!
Glad to hear it. It's a solid rifle but it's got potential to be so much more.
@@TATVCanada that’s the beauty of an R92. You can slick it up to your liking. Henrys and other are nice but you wouldnt want to mess em up after paying a ton for em. R92’s allow you that customization
Mine feeds 38spl really well but 357mag rounds don’t get lifted easily by the lifter and often jam when feeding.
Now that's interesting... I've not had any issues with mine yet.
Mine also shots only .38 special. .357 jams every time.
Nicely done video. How does the ejector spring affect trigger pull? I fail to see the relationship.
The ejector spring won't affect the trigger pull. The actual trigger pull weight is controlled primarily by the trigger spring, and to some extent the finish of the trigger and related pin.
Yea I think he mis spoke and meant to say lighter ejection. Not lighter trigger pull. Even I said Huh? When I heard it.
awesome video, appreciate the effort and information. i am a pretty new gun owner, just got my r92 in 357 mag and took it out to the range one time. i love it but i have basically no standards as its only my second gun. i do enjoy the zen of dismantling and cleaning my guns, but would you recommend doing this if i am purely a recreational shooter? or is this mostly for competition?
I'm not exactly a master marksman myself, but one thing that's definitely helped me improve is working on my own guns. It not only allows you to tailor things to your personal preferences, but also gives you a much better understanding of how they work, which has a greater impact on performance than you'd think. Even if you don't opt to tear it completely apart as shown in the video, I definitely would encourage you to at least open it up and have a look. There are a lot of things you can do with this firearm that require very little in the way of tools or training.
Great job! I will definitely be doing this once I get my hands on the 454 I'm wanting. And yes as a machinest the finish on those parts makes me cringe!
My God I can only imagine. It horrified me, and I'm no machinist.
If we keep making excuses for horrible quality control, companys will continue to provide us with crap. I've owned several genuine Winchester model 92 carbines and one Rossi. One Rossi told me all I need to know.
I sympathize a lot with that statement. I used to have an economics professor who would say we vote with our dollars more than our ballots. In my case there aren't a lot of options here, the price difference was substantial, and to some extent I knew what I was getting into. Given the choice between a Rossi or a Henry for example, I'd certainly take the Henry; but I'm in a Rossi tax bracket ;)
Great video and I'm sure you've covered it, but you should put in a quick warning to use purpose built hollow ground screwdrivers that are designed for work on objects like this. They have a hollow ground bit and bite into the screw head cutting down on the possibility of an OOPS and scratching the living crap out of your pretty item...
Awesome video. I have a question, do you think I can get the action to be more smooth just by racking it over and over many times without doing this slicking process?
Yes that will definitely help over time. It's not going to be as smooth, but breaking it in will still make a positive difference.
Question. I followed these instructions in their entirety. including installing the Lee's Gunsmithing spring kit. Essentially, step by step to the video. NOW, the bolt/lever is EXTREMELY difficult to cycle. Trigger pull weight is 1lb 12oz on average. Its just the dang bolt or lever. Any thoughts?? Thanks in advance! 🤙
Hmmm... Do you see any signs of overly tight fit around the locking lugs? It sounds like there's some serious friction somewhere. Does the stiffness persist through the entire action opening, or just part of it; like it's 'clearing' at a certain point?
If you have any machinists blue or even a sharpie I would mark the various mating surfaces and then cycle the action a few times. If there's a lot of friction anywhere it will quickly wear through and you should be able to recognize it pretty easily. That might at least give you an idea where things are binding.
Great video, thank you. Couple questions.
First, did you clean off all the existing oil before smoothing the edges with something like mineral spirits? Could one use sand paper instead of the India stones, and if so what grit? What type lubricating oil do you favor when reassembling the gun?
I wiped the surfaces of any packing grease more for convenience than practicality; the honing oil is pretty slick anyways so I didn't see much reason in cleaning it further.
You can definitely use sandpaper (600 grit is a good starter). I like India stones because they're perfectly straight, which helps preserve any crisp lines or angles present. Once you're done smoothing things with the 600 just switch it to 1,000-2,000 to remove any score marks and polish.
For oil I like hoppes or butches for moving parts. They're both fairly standard gun oils. If something is a particularly tight fit and relatively stationary you may want to consider a thinner aerosol oil; they provide good corrosion resistance without drying/hardening which is great if you don't frequently disassemble the firearm.
I think I will probably also use the dremmel to clean up the loading gate port. They say it has sharp edges too.
That's coming up in a future video but you're quite right.
The gate/dust shield and spring tension will be the next thing I do. My gate looks to be a tad too long because it catches on the frame and doesn’t come up all the way. I will need to take a little material off the end.
Great video. Is that OK to dry fire through?
I don't know that I'd want to do it hundreds of times, but for the purposes of what we're testing here it's fine.
Hello, I wanted a lever action rifle for some time and after looking around, and your great vid, I am planning to buy one 16" R92 in 45LC. But is there someone on Amazon or Ebay selling the reduced tension kits and stainless followers? Need them imported to EU. Also is it possible to fit 9 rounds of 45LC in the tube mag by reducing spring and maintain proper feeding? Thank you for answers.
I can't really comment on the capacity in 45lc as I don't own one to compare. Regarding the parts kits; I've never seen them for sale on Amazon, but I feel your pain as a non-us resident. I've had friends in the states order and then ship me things before, not sure if you know anyone there but it's my preferred method.
Thank you for reply. Sadly no, I don't have a friend in US that could ship it to me. I saw a stainless follower on ebay, though sold out. Well, I have to wait anyway. They only have blued ones here, stainless are on the way, still tempted by the blued 16" thou. Since Marlins are gone, Henries are rare and way overpriced here. I was choosing between this Rossi and Pedersoni 1886 in 45-70 gov. But later cost 40% more and ammo is 2,5x more/round. So Rossi won.
I'm thinking the spring kit may be enough without cutting any springs...maybe polishing the rough edges.
Where/what spring kit is that? Just brought home my first Rossi, feels great, but im aleays interested in improvements. Thanks
I believe it's by Lee Gun Works. There's a shot of it in the video you can refer to.
@@TATVCanada where did you pick it up? Thanks
Thank you for the video! But wow, the bolt rails were somehow cut off before where the mortises are cut into the bolt... the ends of those rails are supposed to be part of the locking surfaces on the bolt where it pushes against the locking bars. I know Rossis have been hit or miss but this might be the biggest QC blunder I've seen on one.
Potentially useful. (I'm contemplating one of these as an "Illinois friendly" PCC, while waiting for our Supreme court to do the right thing.)
As I understand it they've got quite the waiting list at SCOTUS!
I'm about to buy this spring kit but am wondering, have you had any issues of the reduced tension spring causing failures to fire.. as in "light primer strike"? I don't know there's a dedicated fp spring or where it is but I have to wonder about that. Great video, btw!
I haven't had any issues with light primer strikes on this particular firearm, but I have experienced that issue in some other guns, mostly revolvers. I'm going to be addressing it in a later video but for some firearms you can buy an extended firing pin. It's maybe only 0.005" longer, but it's enough to compensate.
Great info thx for posting. Where do you order the parts from?
Lee Gunsmithing is the manufacturer; their website should show your closest dealer depending on what country you're in.
@@TATVCanada thank you
Great video. Thanks!
Thank you very much.
I have a genuine question. I plan to get one of these rifle in 454 casull as a do-all go anywhere in North America and protect me and mine from everything rifle. I absolutely HATE the safety up on top of the action. Is there ANY way whatsoever to eliminate that and replace it with a tang safety like a mossberg has? I still want to have a safety present on the rifle, and tang safeties are great. Thank you much.
You can remove the existing one but I am not aware of any replacement.
@@TATVCanada I don't think it would count as a replacement, more like a full customization.
Not to plug a competitor, but Steve's Gunz sells a rear peep that replaces that ill-conceived safety very simply. It saved me from buying a Williams as I have for all my other leverguns.
Where did you obtain the stones you used to polish the components?
I forget now; but I think it was Brownells.
For all of you wanting a higher trigger pull weight than 1.5 with the new spring provided. There’s an easy solution. The spring provided is actually longer and allows for movement forward or rearward. The more you move the spring forward, the further up the trigger ramp the spring goes, increasing trigger pull. The further rearward on the ramp, the lighter the pull. So anyone can use the new spring provided and obtain a higher trigger pull/weight by where you place the two prongs of the spring on the trigger ramp. When you dive into replacement you will see what I’m describing.
Absolutely correct; may want to add a touch of blue loctite to secure
Without measuring how do you know if there is excess material that can be removed without increasing tolerances.
Without access to the original manufacturer's diagrams, it's going to be difficult to make an exact measurement. However, much of how a firearm operates is relative to the preferences of the user. In my case, I wanted a smoother, lighter action that is easier to fire. The best advice I can give you is to to start by smoothing out areas that are obviously rough, or burred, and then reassemble/test. Work slowly, remove as little material as possible, and stop when you've reached what you feel is the ideal operation.
This will be my next rifle.
Can you polish the surfaces of the inside receiver where the lower tang goes in?
Wouldn't that help a bit as well?
Yes you can, and yes it would, but it's pretty challenging to do. Bang for buck, the exterior is much less work for a greater return.
Very good and Like from Germany, I want to buy this too, will you ship it to Germany? If so, how can I order the parts?
I don't sell firearms, just tools mostly.
Where can i buy the upgrade kit here in Canada?
I think I bought it from Rusty Wood Trading out west.
Wow! Re-ins erting that bolt pin is a helluva lot easier said than done! Eventually...
Yeah it's a tricky step sometimes to be sure. If it's any consolation it's even harder when you're trying to film it at the same time.
@@TATVCanada I believe it but no, no consolation at all...
Good to walk women through basic principles of logic. Her question was fair & the answer was direct.
Think i could do this on a bench grinder with buffing wheels or would you still stone the flats?
I'm sure it can be done, but we're removing only a few thousands of an inch of material. I would be concerned about either removing too much, or accidentally messing up the angle.
My R92 was at least 10 times rougher than yours inside and couldn't eject until I replaced the ejector spring.
One of the guide rail plates had a burr on it that was 1.5" long and wide enough to cover a quarter. It was folded back over the rail and squished in place. And by 1.5", I don't mean 1.5" of burred edge, I mean it stuck out 1.5". I mean it was like two of the original trigger springs side by side, but much thinner. A huge piece of metal.
Holy crap mate, you are a better man than I for even attempting to fix that. If that were mine it'd be going straight back to the store.
Great jon, thank's a lot 👍
My pleasure!
Any suggestions as to where I can get a new set of bullet guides for a 44mag?
Sorry no idea.
How soon before you drop a video on the loading gate, and anything else to slick up a Rossi. BTW your video's always have great content. Thanks' keep up the great work
Thanks for your question! I am planning to release a part two addressing both the loading gate and mag screw. I'm just way, way behind. This one was filmed back in August if you can believe it.
Thank you@@TATVCanada
Wouldn't it also be necessary to polish the inside edges on the receiver so that the machining marks on the inside don't just gouge new marks in the bolt?
That would be ideal yes, however as both surfaces are made from the same material, the amount of deformation imparted on one from the other will be somewhat mitigated. The original surface imperfections were caused primarily by the machining process which uses much harder cutting tools (usually carbide). In a more practical sense it's also just a lot harder to polish the channels on the receiver than the external surfaces of the bolt and lower tang.
Just picked one up...cycles like butter and they had it locked shut at the store so nobody could manipulate it.
Sometimes that's just a 'safety/display' thing. Sometimes it's because the store owners get sick of listening to customers opening and closing the actions a hundred times, ha ha.
What size India stone are you using and where can I get one like it?
Medium and fine.
@@TATVCanada What are the stone dimensions?
Just did all this the 1.5lb trigger is super light ill have to get used to it and the casings don't go flying anymore so I might be able to find them all lol
I'll definitely keep the safety with this light of trigger
There are spring kits available from third part manufacturers you may want to try as well if you're looking for something heavier.
I’d like something a little heavier. Not much. Maybe 2.5 or 3 pound. 1.5 is really light. I had a couple of unintentional discharges while working the lever at the range in my drills. Who’s the 3rd party you mentioned?
hi, to you ‼️
i would ask to you a simple question, that your carbine has it not the safety lever to avoid to firing out battery ... ❓ i don't see any safety under the lever on the bottom of handle stock rear the trigger ... 🤔🙁
This rifle has a half-cock safety on the hammer, and a secondary safety on the rear of the receiver (top).
@@TATVCanada, hi, to you ‼️
thankyou for your answer, i think that your carbine without the safety lever, there was in every original 92 winchester carbine, it is very dangerous because it can fires out battery when the bolt is unlocked, you can t imagine what's happen If it happens, i think it is a bad work by rossi gun maker,
bye bye
Would it be worth touching up the vertical locking lugs a little?
There's a few other parts like the trigger pin, the locking bolts etc that probably would make some difference. The main reason I didn't do much with those was the machining on them was far, far better than that of the bolt and lower tang. At 11 minutes for this video, I wanted to focus on the low hanging fruit, but you could definitely still address some other parts.
@@TATVCanada thank you. This video great and thorough. You could possibly break the different areas down into different videos as well. Like you've mentioned, doing the magazine in another. Great work!
Cutting coils off a spring actually increases its tension.
Nice job 😊
Thank you very much.
This should be identical to the rossi ranch hand, correct?
I've never owned a ranch hand so I couldn't say for sure, but they do seem to share a number of parts.
Where did you get the lighter springs?
Please see the description for details.
I don’t see anything in the description mentioning where you got the springs?
@@spikex41 Apologies I usually include this stuff in details, but clearly I missed that here. It's show at 0:39 in; Lee Gunsmithing Gunslinger Kit for Rossi 92
Right on thank you I missed that.
Lap the bolt into the receiver, lap the locking bolts into the receiver, to smooth the action.
Nice video, eh, Hoser...JK. Please make versions for the 94 and Ruger single actions.
I don't own a model 94 but I have done one on a single action ruger wrangler, and will be doing one on a new vaquero.
Top! 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Thank you very much.
Marlin!
That gun was a nightmare to put back together
It wasn't my favorite but I've come across worse.
I wouldn't go less than a 3lb trigger. That thing will go off if its dropped or bumped.
So far so good, but I'm usually pretty gentle with it and it's still got the safety.
Just for a few seconds at 10min 20 second he had a left side loading door . I know this is no where the same rifle as mine , I would like to tear my Western Auto 30-30 apart to see how well it was machined in I think it was 1974 .
I didn't even notice it until you pointed it out but yes, I inverted the camera angle vertically so that viewers could see it 'right side up' when I was holding it 'down' due to my positioning relative to the camera. I should have also mirrored the image horizontally to account for that, but clearly missed it. Wish I'd caught that!
Crazy the amount of profesionals think tension springs are used in compression.
I'm just flattered you think I'm a professional.
@@TATVCanada nothing wrong with being polite.
The machine work gave me anxiety. There's no way you can possibly remove enough to smooth this mechanism out without absolutely destroying the tolerances.. Now I'm absolutely terrified to disassembly my marlin. Maybe I'll just leave it in the safe and buy a higher quality rifle..
This is basically a tutorial on how to skip over a Rossi 92 and just buy a Henry!
… I’ve owned both and the Chiappa 92 is a lot slicker out of the box albeit more expensive than the Rossi 92 … and the Chiappa doesn’t have that stupid pigtail safety on top of the bolt
I don't mind the safety but I can certainly appreciate higher quality machine work. I've heard Henry is sort of the 'gold standard'.
@@TATVCanada … but to my knowledge Henry doesn’t make a Win 92 clone to date … they just make Marlin clones … Henry grabbed a lot of Marlins market share during the Remlin garbage gun years
great video, it is a shame that this amount of work is needed to get a gun to where jt should have been out kf the factory but I guess a benefit is that they left you plenty of fat to trim.
I'd be lying if I said I wasn't disappointed at how rough the internals were. I have some machining background and even to a novice like myself it was obvious how poor the manufacturing standards were for some of these parts. The good news is that the only parts that require replacement (the springs) are cheap; everything else is just labour.
Youre not wrong about the loading port; I will be covering work on that and the mag tube spring in a future video as this one was just getting too long.
My new R92 picked up a few weeks ago (May 2024) has smooth milling. No rough milling cuts or burrs. It’s a really nice finish. I left it as is and just did the spring kit. Maybe newer builds are being finished nicer.
50 dollars for a few springs ??
Welcome to Canada. Take whatever the US pays, double it, convert it to CAD, then add $20 shipping.
Rookie mistake: shortening a spring increases its rate.
For me, just a bit too detailed. I'm a bit more curious about just the gate, which is a bit too stiff.
You will be pleased to know I just finished recording for part 2 (which includes the gate, mag spring and mag follower). Should be posted in about a week.
Nice. Looking forward to it.@@TATVCanada
Eu não entendi foi nada😅
Sorry to hear that, friend.
… that’s pretty rough machining for sure
Maybe don’t showcase cutting the springs…. This video is great but normal people that don’t understand exactly what they’re doing will try that and will screw it up
Trimming the springs is essential to softening up smoothing operation of this firearm.
Oooh djjj81 the nanny police.