Hey man, I really appreciate your honesty and transparency about the difficulty of this project.. I took mine to the mechanic and when i picked it up they looked like they didnt want to look at it anymore either.. lol
Nicely done and realism to boot. I admire that at least on camera you take it all in stride where as I would be cussing up a storm. I went ahead and took mine (2011) to the Ford dealership just a few weeks ago. Total price $3100. They did replace all coolant oil lines/tubes gaskets and seals with the updated Ford exhaust manifolds with the extra stud hole.
I just had the Dealer replace BOTh of my manifolds to the tune of $5200.. ouch! It hurt but after watching this video I’m glad I did!🤣 I still say this should be covered under a recall due to the poor design.
Great job on removing the studs (wow), but when you have those turbos off you need to replace all of the fittings, block and heads and turbo, even replace the lines as well, Dorman sells replacements for like $60.
The orings inside of those nuts for the coolant feed and return on the turbos NEED replaced every time this job is done, use some marine grease to re install soo it doesn’t tear them when you reinstall
A company called "Full Race" now makes a complete replacement set of braided lines and flare fittings. I have a set on order for my 2013 F-150 3.5 (SKU A0145A). The kit seems to have favorable reviews on the forums. Fingers crossed.
Ford has a new part number for the 3.5 manifolds, they have a similar design to the BD diesel ones. I had both of mine done, pass. side was before the new part number unfortunately. I was planning on doing them myself but got too busy with other things, this one is 100% worth having the shop do.
After talking with a service technician AND a Parts counter rep (in idaho), I learned the updated manifolds actually only go from the 8 stud setup to a 9 stud setup, and he specifically mentioned that the material used for the studs is the same as the non-updated heads. He oddly specifically mentioned that "its not like they're stainless steel or anything, the extra stud does help but the material is still a weaker material by comparison" which I chuckled at cause BD Diesel advertises stainless steel studs and bolts for their manifold design, and they also utilize 11 studs per manifold rather than the 8 for stock and 9 for updated. You can also get the BD kit which includes studs, bolts, gaskets and manifolds for both sides for about the cost of just the manifold from Ford. So, purely parts cost for backyard warriors like I imagine the other guys and gals watching this video are, i'm definitely leaning towards the BD option right now.
@Mrnarutofan28 No doubt! I’d buy that BD kit again in a heartbeat. They bought to sell new coolant lines to go with it; it would score them more profit and “force” us to make the repairs while in there. I can certainly vouch for 11 studs because I installed every last one of them - haha!
@@williamtunnell unfortunately, as much as a ford guy as I am, their cost-cutting/saving measures seem to take it too far. It happened 6-7 years ago with my '08 3V 5.4 with me doing a cam phaser swap and lockout kit 2 months after I bought it. She was a great truck till I ran her dry on the freeway 2 months ago (rookie mistake, still horribly embarrassed about it), and at the price I got this '14 platinum 3.5l 2 weeks ago, I knew it would be something. Regardless, shortcomings aside, i'm extremely impressed with this truck, always wanted an ecoboost, and I'm going to do my best to ensure she runs as long as my old truck did, perhaps even more. Super appreciated the video by the way. It was only over the last few days I decided that noise on acceleration wasn't actually the sleek cold air kit the truck came with. It really helped me narrow down what to look for and what to shop for!
@@Mrnarutofan28from everything I've read, it's the casting material vs hole count that's causing the issue... it's warps and breaks that back bolt which supports the turbos, thus why most newer revamps models add that extra stud, to support the turbo. Cr performance makes a mean one capable of being pushed from stock to 650hp... it's bored better giving better flow with a heavier casting different material... only added the 1 bolt
I just put these on my truck. Youre wise to replace all oil and water lines with the fittings that have the clips when doing this job because you will get leaks and constantly fight it. Also those manifolds have slightly bigger ports so youd be smart to do the driver side also. I replaced all of those items and put new turbos on too and while my ford mechanic buddy had the engine out i went ahead and did the timing chains and high volumn oil pump along with new calve covers. Total of $5400.
Yes but im not playing around with it. My ford tech said it was faster and easier to just pull the engine and do everytbing on his engine table rather than fight everything through the fender wells and laying over the front end. Saved me time and labor cost. He had the engine out in a lil over an hour. So while it was out for the manifolds turbos and oil/water lines i said might as well do the chains oil pump water pump belts etc anything and everything he took off might as well replace with new. So i should be good for another 150k + 👍 still cheaper than a new truck and a high car payment.
I hope you do get many more years from it. I love my F150! Nowadays they’re taking the cab off in 45 minutes and get engine access. Lots of steps to remember though to put it all back together. Haha!
The longer studs allow them to stretch when the manifold expands. That's why the old bolts snap. GM and Ram have the same issue. Diesels have used the longer studs for years.
Hi! I’m wondering if you could please post a parts and tool list that you’d recommend for the project. Including the oil and coolant line pieces. Thanks!
Hard job that’s why I’m doing this while I have a new engine with this faulty part put as well as new water pump water hose and thermostat and the long block lol
On the broken stud…. Either drill it and use an easy out, or weld a nut onto it. Welding a pile and using vise-grips was painful to watch. Also, always use a socket when possible. Open end or box end wrench only when a socket won’t work.
I wanted to drill it but the way it broke, I couldn’t keep it in the straight. I tried welding a nut on there and couldn’t make one stick. Eventually I knew that nub would work so I just went with it. No excuse, that’s just what happened! 😂
We are all one broken bolt away from a mental breakdown. How did the fix hold up? I have a 2014 that I need to replace the manifolds on. I just need to find a peaceful few days to do the work.
Haha! Right! The new manifold has worked just fine. I’m still running the stock one on the driver’s side and I’m suspecting it to fail sometime, so I may get to enjoy this project again. It’s definitely an “upgrade” that Ford should have made for us from the beginning. It’s interesting how the stud locations are in the block but the manifold design just didn’t use them.
That same exact coolant leak happened to me as well except I was working with a Transit van, I left the turbo In and was able to change the line and fitting but it was a bear. I’m a tech and that job ranks high up there on the difficulty level.
Hey there, great video! Thanks for making it. I've got the dreaded coolant leak on my '16 Expy. Comin right out of the driver side turbo. So thinking of doing the manifolds at the same time. Curious about the new studs. Seems like the extra 3 stud holes are already threaded up in the block? Ford just didn't use those thread holes? Or am I missing something?
I'm doing this same job on my 2016 Ford Transit 250 and man it is such a different job. I'm doing the left side. I removed the turbo today and tomorrow I'm working on the manifold. I'm soaked it with some pb blaster a few times so hopefully that helps tomorrow
@@williamtunnell oh yeah it definitely is. That job is like 2600 down here plus I had a warranty but they denied the claim 🤦🏾♂️ but I made some good progress, and I have my dad there for back up so that definitely helps. I'm about to go get started on day 2. In a minute. Wish my luck
So I was able to get them off earlier. 2 is mine were broken but it still had some of the stud left. So we took a 1/4 socket with like 8 points on it and tapped it on the stud when small hammer until it went down on the stud They both came right out. Yeah we sacrificed 2 sockets but who cares lol
Thank you Much for the wonder detailed video, I would love to buy an F150 but it scares me when i read about all the problems and desgine flaws hey have. Ford such a great prouct that's there top seller for more then 30 plus years but they haven't fiured out a way to make a quality product
I know what you mean - but if you watch enough videos on vehicles, they ALL have scary problems. My Ford has required some maintenance over the years, but I’m currently rolling more than 205K miles on her and she’s holding strong. Thanks for writing and watching!
Would it be worth it to remove the control arms and suspension? Would that give you more room and make it easier? Would it also be worth it to simply get new bolts all the way around to avoid breakage?
Removing the suspension would definitely give you more room but no, probably not worth the extra effort. As for new bolts, the kit comes with new bolts and the problem is getting out the broken bolts/studs so yes, everything has to come off to replace the stud. Good question but unless you’re very familiar with removing and replacing suspension components, I wouldn’t attempt it. The space gained wouldn’t be worth it in my opinion.
I was goingvto ask you if you replaced the coolant lines and fittings. These things leak most of the time when you disturb them. I'm getting ready to do the manifolds, oil lines, filters coolant lines all at once
I did not and definitely should have while I was in there. I will when I replace the driver’s side but it’s been fine. Thanks for the comment! You have a wise plan! LOL
@@williamtunnell I've been monitoring my 13 F150 Eco for the broken studs.. I had a 97 F150 with the 5.4 in it and it too had broken manifold studs.. I elected to have it done, but that was over 13 years ago and it only cost me $400 to have an exhaust shop do it on the passenger side of that 97.. The driver side was okay at that time. I've watched a ton of vids on this and the common theme is to also replace the hard lines and the oil line as well.. There is a small filter on the oil supply line and if that gets clogged... Well, you know.. Not looking forward to this job when the time comes.. I've got 120k on it, but it's not a daily driver anymore, so I'll nurse it along as long as I need to when it does go (so far that end stud is still in place!!).. Good job none the less on your part. 😎
Thanks for writing Mitch! I would definitely change the coolant lines out if I were to do this again. I didn’t know about the filter in that oil feed - good to know - thanks!
Hi, I have a 2013 F150 3.5 liter engine One question Did your truck was making some problems Like losing power or trying to shutdown because of that leaks on that turbo? Did you figure it out what cause it to start leaking? and it was just leaking coolant or was leaking oil as well? Mine it started leaking yesterday and it’s overheating on bank 1 passenger side and having oil pressure problem and it seems like it’s starving for oil Not sure why because it was fine and working good days ago
Mario, on this particular video, the exhaust manifold was leaking and pushing air out around the block. It made a rattling, almost chirping noise due to the air coming around the thin metal gasket. When I replaced it with the upgraded design of manifolds, I did end up with a coolant leak, no oil leaks. It leaked coolant because I had to move around these cooling lines that feed coolant to the turbos. There’s a rubber O-ring in them and I guess I may have damaged one. It is advisable to change all these while the turbo is out. I would do that if I had to do this job again. I did not notice any real loss of power, just the chirping sound that was noticeable on acceleration and cold start-up. I hope this helps!
Make sure to order the turbo install kit too, this kit only includes the gaskets and hardware for the manifold itself, none of the turbo gaskets, coolant fittings, studs, or nuts.
Maybe Marcus, but they don’t break when you’re trying to remove them - at least mine didn’t. They break when they get hot and over time the weight on the back most stud causes it to snap. Once it breaks, you get an exhaust leak that “chirps” when accelerating. Very annoying and loss of power.
@@williamtunnell Gotcha, I missed that. Also, love the fact you prayed over the repair! I need to pray to find a reasonable repair shop. Timing cover and rear main seal are leaking on my 2016 F150 EB. I'm in North Georgia but repair facilities want over $5K for these repairs and that seems overpriced.
If I were you, I'd replace that drivers side before that stud pops, because when it pops you will have to extract another broken stud. If you do it before it pops, the stud "should" come out in one piece.
Actually I didn’t even use a jack. Honestly, I can see where it could be easier on a lift but some work is done from the top side (removing all the tubing) and the rest is in the fender well. The difference would be being able to stand instead of down on your knees.
Once the clip is off they do pop out straight. You may need to hit yours with a little lube. I did break the seal on one of mine - hence the trip to the mechanic shop after all! Most guys recommend changing those coolant lines or at least the fittings while doing this job. After doing what I did, I’d recommend it as well.
The coolant running out onto the ground. 😁. In all seriousness, it was obvious. It leaked pretty good. Finding the source was a little more difficult but I did find it.
Excellent job! I have never seen that weld to the broken stud trick before. I have also had to pray in Jesus name on many mechanical projects. It would be nice if automotive manufacturers would stand by their products more instead of making hard working customers fix their engineering mistakes. I could see where carbon monoxide could get into the cab from that leak.
Thanks - my only problem was at the end when I realized that I’d sprung a coolant leak from somewhere else. I just couldn’t wrench on it any longer and took that in - I did feel good that my local shop said that everything I had done looked good!
@@williamtunnell how easy would it have been to change out that coolant line fitting on the engine side when the turbo was out? I think the BD kit comes with new fittings for both the turbo and engine.
So Brandon, I can’t say for sure…the fitting goes in behind the AC compressor, but I don’t believe my local shop has to move it, so likely very easy. I certainly would have done it too while I had it all apart if I knew it was going to leak. Definitely not a bad idea to change it while you’re in there.
Yes sir, you are correct! I had to go back to work the next day and was tired of fooling with it. Once I went back to work, I wouldn’t have much time to come back until the next weekend - so I took the easy way out for sure. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I’d have loved to use one but the stud is harder than the aluminum block and a drill bit (on another project not recorded) kept slipping off and getting on the aluminum.
You sir are showing us what real backyard mechanics are all about. This is absolutely how things really go.
You know it!
Hey man, I really appreciate your honesty and transparency about the difficulty of this project.. I took mine to the mechanic and when i picked it up they looked like they didnt want to look at it anymore either.. lol
Indeed! I like your channel name. I’m a born again believer myself.
Nicely done and realism to boot. I admire that at least on camera you take it all in stride where as I would be cussing up a storm. I went ahead and took mine (2011) to the Ford dealership just a few weeks ago. Total price $3100. They did replace all coolant oil lines/tubes gaskets and seals with the updated Ford exhaust manifolds with the extra stud hole.
@@johnsteele8382 thanks sir! Pretty much the same off camera. No wait , there may have been tears Off camera. LOL. Thanks for watching.
I remember all the same sights when I was working on the F150. Working on it was bad enough, I can’t believe you taped it too. 👏🏻
Great attempt brother!!! You showed more ❤️ than i would of.. great motors just gotta keep them running right👍🏽
Great video - the detail you include makes it real. Very helpful
@@jimd374 thanks for watching. Seems like yesterday. That’s probably the PTSD. 😄
I love the help at 10:53 😂 - Good look’n little fella!
Best damn manifolds on the market, period. And now they’re port matched!
Great job on the video, laughed a lot and learned and thing or two!
Thank you Sir! I may or may not have cried a little off camera. LOL! 😂
Wow! Incredible job on that broken stud removal!!
I just had the Dealer replace BOTh of my manifolds to the tune of $5200.. ouch! It hurt but after watching this video I’m glad I did!🤣 I still say this should be covered under a recall due to the poor design.
Great job on removing the studs (wow), but when you have those turbos off you need to replace all of the fittings, block and heads and turbo, even replace the lines as well, Dorman sells replacements for like $60.
Yes, I really should have, Brandon. Hindsight…ya know?
The orings inside of those nuts for the coolant feed and return on the turbos NEED replaced every time this job is done, use some marine grease to re install soo it doesn’t tear them when you reinstall
A company called "Full Race" now makes a complete replacement set of braided lines and flare fittings. I have a set on order for my 2013 F-150 3.5 (SKU A0145A). The kit seems to have favorable reviews on the forums. Fingers crossed.
Ford has a new part number for the 3.5 manifolds, they have a similar design to the BD diesel ones. I had both of mine done, pass. side was before the new part number unfortunately. I was planning on doing them myself but got too busy with other things, this one is 100% worth having the shop do.
After talking with a service technician AND a Parts counter rep (in idaho), I learned the updated manifolds actually only go from the 8 stud setup to a 9 stud setup, and he specifically mentioned that the material used for the studs is the same as the non-updated heads. He oddly specifically mentioned that "its not like they're stainless steel or anything, the extra stud does help but the material is still a weaker material by comparison" which I chuckled at cause BD Diesel advertises stainless steel studs and bolts for their manifold design, and they also utilize 11 studs per manifold rather than the 8 for stock and 9 for updated. You can also get the BD kit which includes studs, bolts, gaskets and manifolds for both sides for about the cost of just the manifold from Ford. So, purely parts cost for backyard warriors like I imagine the other guys and gals watching this video are, i'm definitely leaning towards the BD option right now.
*about the cost of one side one manifold from ford
@Mrnarutofan28 No doubt! I’d buy that BD kit again in a heartbeat. They bought to sell new coolant lines to go with it; it would score them more profit and “force” us to make the repairs while in there. I can certainly vouch for 11 studs because I installed every last one of them - haha!
@@williamtunnell unfortunately, as much as a ford guy as I am, their cost-cutting/saving measures seem to take it too far. It happened 6-7 years ago with my '08 3V 5.4 with me doing a cam phaser swap and lockout kit 2 months after I bought it. She was a great truck till I ran her dry on the freeway 2 months ago (rookie mistake, still horribly embarrassed about it), and at the price I got this '14 platinum 3.5l 2 weeks ago, I knew it would be something. Regardless, shortcomings aside, i'm extremely impressed with this truck, always wanted an ecoboost, and I'm going to do my best to ensure she runs as long as my old truck did, perhaps even more.
Super appreciated the video by the way. It was only over the last few days I decided that noise on acceleration wasn't actually the sleek cold air kit the truck came with. It really helped me narrow down what to look for and what to shop for!
@@Mrnarutofan28from everything I've read, it's the casting material vs hole count that's causing the issue... it's warps and breaks that back bolt which supports the turbos, thus why most newer revamps models add that extra stud, to support the turbo. Cr performance makes a mean one capable of being pushed from stock to 650hp... it's bored better giving better flow with a heavier casting different material... only added the 1 bolt
I appreciate the video. Im definitely taking this to my mechanic to have this job done .
Probably not the worst idea you’ve had, sir. 😁
I just put these on my truck. Youre wise to replace all oil and water lines with the fittings that have the clips when doing this job because you will get leaks and constantly fight it. Also those manifolds have slightly bigger ports so youd be smart to do the driver side also. I replaced all of those items and put new turbos on too and while my ford mechanic buddy had the engine out i went ahead and did the timing chains and high volumn oil pump along with new calve covers. Total of $5400.
Wow! Big job!
Yes but im not playing around with it. My ford tech said it was faster and easier to just pull the engine and do everytbing on his engine table rather than fight everything through the fender wells and laying over the front end. Saved me time and labor cost. He had the engine out in a lil over an hour. So while it was out for the manifolds turbos and oil/water lines i said might as well do the chains oil pump water pump belts etc anything and everything he took off might as well replace with new. So i should be good for another 150k + 👍 still cheaper than a new truck and a high car payment.
I hope you do get many more years from it. I love my F150! Nowadays they’re taking the cab off in 45 minutes and get engine access. Lots of steps to remember though to put it all back together. Haha!
Thank you and same for you. Yes as long as you have a lift its the easiest and fastest way.
The longer studs allow them to stretch when the manifold expands. That's why the old bolts snap. GM and Ram have the same issue. Diesels have used the longer studs for years.
You did good work. Always something just laying to get ya. You know Murphys law.. now you know what to watch out for.
Thank you Bubba - and you are so right!
Thank you for a great video. I will take your advice and let my mechanic do this job.
It’s definitely an undertaking!
Nice work,thank you
Hi! I’m wondering if you could please post a parts and tool list that you’d recommend for the project. Including the oil and coolant line pieces. Thanks!
Hard job that’s why I’m doing this while I have a new engine with this faulty part put as well as new water pump water hose and thermostat and the long block lol
On the broken stud…. Either drill it and use an easy out, or weld a nut onto it. Welding a pile and using vise-grips was painful to watch. Also, always use a socket when possible. Open end or box end wrench only when a socket won’t work.
I wanted to drill it but the way it broke, I couldn’t keep it in the straight. I tried welding a nut on there and couldn’t make one stick. Eventually I knew that nub would work so I just went with it. No excuse, that’s just what happened! 😂
@ You got it, so that’s a win for sure.
We are all one broken bolt away from a mental breakdown. How did the fix hold up? I have a 2014 that I need to replace the manifolds on. I just need to find a peaceful few days to do the work.
Haha! Right! The new manifold has worked just fine. I’m still running the stock one on the driver’s side and I’m suspecting it to fail sometime, so I may get to enjoy this project again. It’s definitely an “upgrade” that Ford should have made for us from the beginning. It’s interesting how the stud locations are in the block but the manifold design just didn’t use them.
That same exact coolant leak happened to me as well except I was working with a Transit van, I left the turbo In and was able to change the line and fitting but it was a bear. I’m a tech and that job ranks high up there on the difficulty level.
Thanks Brandon - at least you’re making me feel better. LOL!
The shop I took it to, the guys groaned and said we hate doing this. 😂
Seems you did it I’ve heard you gotta put those lines new when you work with them
@@osvalditochirino3428 absolutely. If I did it again, I’d change those coolant lines while in there.
Hey there, great video! Thanks for making it. I've got the dreaded coolant leak on my '16 Expy. Comin right out of the driver side turbo. So thinking of doing the manifolds at the same time. Curious about the new studs. Seems like the extra 3 stud holes are already threaded up in the block? Ford just didn't use those thread holes? Or am I missing something?
You are 100% correct. Stud locations are already there and threaded. No idea why Ford decided not to use them on the manifolds.
I'm doing this same job on my 2016 Ford Transit 250 and man it is such a different job. I'm doing the left side. I removed the turbo today and tomorrow I'm working on the manifold. I'm soaked it with some pb blaster a few times so hopefully that helps tomorrow
Good luck sir! It’s definitely a job, but can save you a ton of money by doing it yourself!
@@williamtunnell oh yeah it definitely is. That job is like 2600 down here plus I had a warranty but they denied the claim 🤦🏾♂️ but I made some good progress, and I have my dad there for back up so that definitely helps. I'm about to go get started on day 2. In a minute. Wish my luck
So I was able to get them off earlier. 2 is mine were broken but it still had some of the stud left. So we took a 1/4 socket with like 8 points on it and tapped it on the stud when small hammer until it went down on the stud They both came right out. Yeah we sacrificed 2 sockets but who cares lol
Great job! Small price to pay for a successful stud removal! Not sure I’d have thought to do that with a small socket - thanks for the tip!
Thank you Much for the wonder detailed video, I would love to buy an F150 but it scares me when i read about all the problems and desgine flaws hey have.
Ford such a great prouct that's there top seller for more then 30 plus years but they haven't fiured out a way to make a quality product
I know what you mean - but if you watch enough videos on vehicles, they ALL have scary problems. My Ford has required some maintenance over the years, but I’m currently rolling more than 205K miles on her and she’s holding strong. Thanks for writing and watching!
Are the holes already in the head for the added bolts on the manifold?
Yes - it’s like Ford planned for this! Strange, really, that they’d have the holes and just not make the matching manifold.
Seriously it’s so they can make money by selling you new manifolds to correct the issue
Would it be worth it to remove the control arms and suspension? Would that give you more room and make it easier? Would it also be worth it to simply get new bolts all the way around to avoid breakage?
Removing the suspension would definitely give you more room but no, probably not worth the extra effort. As for new bolts, the kit comes with new bolts and the problem is getting out the broken bolts/studs so yes, everything has to come off to replace the stud. Good question but unless you’re very familiar with removing and replacing suspension components, I wouldn’t attempt it. The space gained wouldn’t be worth it in my opinion.
I was goingvto ask you if you replaced the coolant lines and fittings. These things leak most of the time when you disturb them. I'm getting ready to do the manifolds, oil lines, filters coolant lines all at once
I did not and definitely should have while I was in there. I will when I replace the driver’s side but it’s been fine. Thanks for the comment! You have a wise plan! LOL
@@williamtunnell I've been monitoring my 13 F150 Eco for the broken studs.. I had a 97 F150 with the 5.4 in it and it too had broken manifold studs.. I elected to have it done, but that was over 13 years ago and it only cost me $400 to have an exhaust shop do it on the passenger side of that 97.. The driver side was okay at that time.
I've watched a ton of vids on this and the common theme is to also replace the hard lines and the oil line as well.. There is a small filter on the oil supply line and if that gets clogged... Well, you know..
Not looking forward to this job when the time comes.. I've got 120k on it, but it's not a daily driver anymore, so I'll nurse it along as long as I need to when it does go (so far that end stud is still in place!!).. Good job none the less on your part. 😎
Thanks for writing Mitch! I would definitely change the coolant lines out if I were to do this again. I didn’t know about the filter in that oil feed - good to know - thanks!
Hi, I have a 2013 F150 3.5 liter engine
One question
Did your truck was making some problems
Like losing power or trying to shutdown because of that leaks on that turbo?
Did you figure it out what cause it to start leaking?
and it was just leaking coolant or was leaking oil as well?
Mine it started leaking yesterday and it’s overheating on bank 1 passenger side and having oil pressure problem and it seems like it’s starving for oil
Not sure why because it was fine and working good days ago
Mario, on this particular video, the exhaust manifold was leaking and pushing air out around the block. It made a rattling, almost chirping noise due to the air coming around the thin metal gasket. When I replaced it with the upgraded design of manifolds, I did end up with a coolant leak, no oil leaks. It leaked coolant because I had to move around these cooling lines that feed coolant to the turbos. There’s a rubber O-ring in them and I guess I may have damaged one. It is advisable to change all these while the turbo is out. I would do that if I had to do this job again. I did not notice any real loss of power, just the chirping sound that was noticeable on acceleration and cold start-up. I hope this helps!
Gracias por tu ayuda.muy buen video y trabajo . saludos desde chile .
@@mauriciobriceno5114 chile! Excelente! De nada. Gracias para tu mensaje
Make sure to order the turbo install kit too, this kit only includes the gaskets and hardware for the manifold itself, none of the turbo gaskets, coolant fittings, studs, or nuts.
Just got the parts in to do this job. The stud tool came with a ball bearing. What is the function for that?
Maybe to act as a “roller” or “cushion” between the stud tool and the end of the stud itself? My kit didn’t come with that as I recall. 🤷♂️
Great video sir
Thank you!
I willbe doing this when my adapters come in....thank you for the video
It was great talking to you Rich! I hope you have better luck with the ending! Ha!
Would an induction gun bust those exhaust studs and nuts lose so they will not break?
Maybe Marcus, but they don’t break when you’re trying to remove them - at least mine didn’t. They break when they get hot and over time the weight on the back most stud causes it to snap. Once it breaks, you get an exhaust leak that “chirps” when accelerating. Very annoying and loss of power.
@@williamtunnell Gotcha, I missed that. Also, love the fact you prayed over the repair! I need to pray to find a reasonable repair shop. Timing cover and rear main seal are leaking on my 2016 F150 EB. I'm in North Georgia but repair facilities want over $5K for these repairs and that seems overpriced.
Indeed. I pray over a lot of things!
That was a lot of work I don’t blame you I’d took it to somebody too. But still a good job
Thank you! Thanks for watching too!
Thought that was Gail hollering at you for a minute! Ha
That would have been about right, too.
If I were you, I'd replace that drivers side before that stud pops, because when it pops you will have to extract another broken stud. If you do it before it pops, the stud "should" come out in one piece.
Not a bad idea - but it’s just such a horrible job! LOL!
Stupid question, from what you went through would this have been any easier using a lift? Vs a Jack and stands? Just curious.
Actually I didn’t even use a jack. Honestly, I can see where it could be easier on a lift but some work is done from the top side (removing all the tubing) and the rest is in the fender well. The difference would be being able to stand instead of down on your knees.
Because we all have a lift...
I'm glad I'm the only one
All the credit to you on the mechanical and video editing as well. Now to work on the next project: Cam Phasers 😅
Please, No! LOL!
How did you get your coolant lines off turbo? I got the clip out but the line doesn’t wanna come out, I’m worried I’m gonna break the other end
Once the clip is off they do pop out straight. You may need to hit yours with a little lube. I did break the seal on one of mine - hence the trip to the mechanic shop after all! Most guys recommend changing those coolant lines or at least the fittings while doing this job. After doing what I did, I’d recommend it as well.
Would have been a good time to replace those coolant fittings on the turbo. They will eventually start leaking there.
Yeah BD devised had an installation hardware kit you have to buy separately also
You’re right!
Why Ford just didn't use all the pre-existing stud locations i have no idea. Really bad manifold design. Thank u BD Diesel for fixing their mistake.
How many miles are on this truck?
At the time, I think it was around 150k
how did you know it was leaking?
The coolant running out onto the ground. 😁. In all seriousness, it was obvious. It leaked pretty good. Finding the source was a little more difficult but I did find it.
I broke the same oil line bolts on my install. They are fragile!
An amazing 6 foot-pounds!
@@williamtunnell maybe I shouldn’t have used that 1/2” drive ratchet 🤷
Haha!! Right. I’d never have guessed those were on there with such little torque. Oh well - we live and learn!
Wish someone would show a transit...
What yr is your truck?
2013
Wow 8.8 ftlbs for the studs seems a bit loose
I agree? Steel into aluminum, I guess. Haven’t had a problem though.
Excellent job! I have never seen that weld to the broken stud trick before. I have also had to pray in Jesus name on many mechanical projects. It would be nice if automotive manufacturers would stand by their products more instead of making hard working customers fix their engineering mistakes. I could see where carbon monoxide could get into the cab from that leak.
Thank you sir! I was smelling exhaust in the cab so I couldn’t leave it like that. Thanks for watching!
Lol, dude, use an easy out. Get the snap-on kit. Those threads weren’t even corroded. 😂.
I'm worried about doing this I just had to order turbos and manifolds for my 16 today
Totally understand. I was dreading this project for a while!
@@williamtunnell besides the broke stud didn't look to bad tho
Thanks - my only problem was at the end when I realized that I’d sprung a coolant leak from somewhere else. I just couldn’t wrench on it any longer and took that in - I did feel good that my local shop said that everything I had done looked good!
@@williamtunnell how easy would it have been to change out that coolant line fitting on the engine side when the turbo was out? I think the BD kit comes with new fittings for both the turbo and engine.
So Brandon, I can’t say for sure…the fitting goes in behind the AC compressor, but I don’t believe my local shop has to move it, so likely very easy. I certainly would have done it too while I had it all apart if I knew it was going to leak. Definitely not a bad idea to change it while you’re in there.
You could have easily done it yourself. Just need to take a break and come back sometimes. 33:39
Yes sir, you are correct! I had to go back to work the next day and was tired of fooling with it. Once I went back to work, I wouldn’t have much time to come back until the next weekend - so I took the easy way out for sure. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I need this done on my 2013 and it makes me stomach turn after watching this this video. 😣
Not for the faint of heart, that’s for sure!
Throw those Pittsburgh locking pliers away
LOL! They’re in the bottom of my toolbox and haven’t been out since.
My guy.... Bolt extractor
I’d have loved to use one but the stud is harder than the aluminum block and a drill bit (on another project not recorded) kept slipping off and getting on the aluminum.
I see some trucks on the road with nuts hanging out i understand now why
LOL! For real!
You’re funny but if you can do this you can do almost any job on you’re truck
@@osvalditochirino3428 thanks! I appreciate the comment
Nice job