Great content and nice work. Here is something that may help. In V Carve, draw in some circles the size if screw heads and drop them in your drawing where you would like hold down screws. Using the screw head diameter allows you to make sure that your cutter will not hit them. I did this yesterday on some walnut boards. I have a vacuum table and threw down some plywood waste board and vacuumed it down. Layed down the walnut on top and held it temporarily with two clamps. I had V Carve take the 1/4" cutter that was set up and go around and SPOT each of those circles. Then I drilled a through hole by hand and screwed down to the waste board. Quick and easy. That allowed the board to sit much flatter than just some end clamps. I have other CAM Clamps and hold down clamps but sometimes this works best for me when cutting odd shapes. If I have small text or some kind of detail design I will surface the material and hit it with 120 in the machine and then do my carving. that way i know its flat and dont have to rerun shallow cuts. Anyway I hope that helps in certain situations. Keep up the great work and excellent information. Kelly
Absolutely agree with the i2R choice, I bought mine after close to 2 years of research. After talking to Sonny on the phone I knew this was the company to give my $$ too. The ease of setup was also a plus. Going on my 2nd year of ownership and have zero regrets.
When I'm vcarving, I do a surfacing toolpath first with 1/4 downcut bit to get the surface completely uniform. Just like 0.01 or 0.02 off the top, some times I run it a couple times if it misses some sections. But then you have a perfectly uniform surface that's parallel with your machine to vcarve on. Great video!
So thank you for your content. After about 6 months of research, I chose the I2R because of your videos. Should be here this week. They have been great so far.
I’ve been enjoying your videos and learning a lot. I do have a question though. I seem to not get a clean cut through oramask when trying cut a sign. I get fuzzy leftovers in the letters. What am I missing? Keep up the good work.
Hi Nick, I was given some madrone wood and was wondering if it can be used for cutting boards. I believe it's from the Santa Cruz, CA area. Thx, Harrington
What version of Vcarve are you using? I am using Desktop 11.5 for my Next Wave HD500 and I cannot do nesting. When I called tech support, they said it was only available with V Carve Pro. I am considering updating my machine to a large one. Maybe I2R is the answer.
Varathane are excellent stains for wood. I love them very much. I also like minvax. Oil-based stains are the best. I like the color that water stains give but they need to be further processed. From hardwoods, I have only oak and beech. But I'm in Russia, and hardwood products are harder to sell here. And I'm not that good at selling. Therefore, I am looking for more affordable products that I could make from pine or plywood. In fact, many people do not care what it is made of, so why not make it from pine.
What is the trick to getting the masking film on? When I tried it, the CNC tore it to shreds and it wasn't anywhere near as clean as yours in this video.
Great content and nice work.
Here is something that may help. In V Carve, draw in some circles the size if screw heads and drop them in your drawing where you would like hold down screws. Using the screw head diameter allows you to make sure that your cutter will not hit them. I did this yesterday on some walnut boards. I have a vacuum table and threw down some plywood waste board and vacuumed it down. Layed down the walnut on top and held it temporarily with two clamps. I had V Carve take the 1/4" cutter that was set up and go around and SPOT each of those circles. Then I drilled a through hole by hand and screwed down to the waste board. Quick and easy. That allowed the board to sit much flatter than just some end clamps. I have other CAM Clamps and hold down clamps but sometimes this works best for me when cutting odd shapes.
If I have small text or some kind of detail design I will surface the material and hit it with 120 in the machine and then do my carving. that way i know its flat and dont have to rerun shallow cuts. Anyway I hope that helps in certain situations. Keep up the great work and excellent information.
Kelly
Absolutely agree with the i2R choice, I bought mine after close to 2 years of research. After talking to Sonny on the phone I knew this was the company to give my $$ too. The ease of setup was also a plus. Going on my 2nd year of ownership and have zero regrets.
Love love it! Such an amazing unit and great company!
When I'm vcarving, I do a surfacing toolpath first with 1/4 downcut bit to get the surface completely uniform. Just like 0.01 or 0.02 off the top, some times I run it a couple times if it misses some sections. But then you have a perfectly uniform surface that's parallel with your machine to vcarve on. Great video!
So thank you for your content. After about 6 months of research, I chose the I2R because of your videos. Should be here this week. They have been great so far.
Fantastic! I’ve been so happy working with them.
I guess because you're a teacher you're used to explaining things so well. Great video.
Thank you so much!
wish i could afford a cnc with laser, these look great
I’ve been enjoying your videos and learning a lot. I do have a question though. I seem to not get a clean cut through oramask when trying cut a sign. I get fuzzy leftovers in the letters. What am I missing? Keep up the good work.
It’s definitely finicky. Some materials it just doesn’t adhere to as well. I usually stick with materials I’ve had success with.
Hi Nick, I was given some madrone wood and was wondering if it can be used for cutting boards. I believe it's from the Santa Cruz, CA area.
Thx,
Harrington
What version of Vcarve are you using? I am using Desktop 11.5 for my Next Wave HD500 and I cannot do nesting. When I called tech support, they said it was only available with V Carve Pro. I am considering updating my machine to a large one. Maybe I2R is the answer.
Varathane are excellent stains for wood. I love them very much. I also like minvax. Oil-based stains are the best. I like the color that water stains give but they need to be further processed. From hardwoods, I have only oak and beech. But I'm in Russia, and hardwood products are harder to sell here. And I'm not that good at selling. Therefore, I am looking for more affordable products that I could make from pine or plywood. In fact, many people do not care what it is made of, so why not make it from pine.
The Beach calls too!
😁 True true
Are there any particular shows you have setup for in the past, or any upcoming shows?
I’ve did a holiday craft show twice a few years ago. Hope to get back to one this year. But mostly sales online.
@@SixEightWoodworks I have done a couple small shows with my wood carvings. I live in Mount Vernon.
Nice 👍
Thank you
@@SixEightWoodworks hi sir
Brown paper bag or cardboard will pollish sprayed lacquer . I do this on all my signs
What is the trick to getting the masking film on? When I tried it, the CNC tore it to shreds and it wasn't anywhere near as clean as yours in this video.
Sometimes I use a roller. It depends on the material. Some finishes make it hard to adhere.
come on, get a lav mic
R'
I'm very intimidated by getting started. Do you have a Facebook page? I'd like to message you.