Thanks, this video was the motivation i needed to open my pump and clean it out. Cpu Temps were capping around 100C prior to cleaning. After cleaning it dropped down to 45-50C. Fans now run quiet and happy, performance is back to normal. Pump is working again. Lots of debris inside. I flushed it out a few times and refilled it. If I need to open it again I will fill with either glycol or deionized/demineralized water. But this time I used standard tap water. Better then nothing and saved me from spending $$$. Cheers!
i have the same problem now, with my 8 yo corsair H80, mind telling how u do the backflush, did you detach the piping?, or you do it like this video, from the pump assembly? i cleaned external fins, resit with new thermal paste and run it back, but i don't feel the pump moving, or any heat in the piping... i shake it a bit to see if there is coolant in there.. but cant hear anything - the next action is just to unassemble and clean the pump - i'll be my corsair tech support now.. been finding parts for H80 but cannot find it online...
My Corsair H45 was jammed bad. It was around 2.5 years old or so, was worked very hard like the pc often had to run for 3 days continuously. CPU temp was reaching 91-93c under load. Thinking that it might be time for a new AIO set, I took the radiator apart. Thing was so dusty you couldn't tell it was a radiator. Cleaned it up the best I could. Worked on the fan too. And voila! The temps are 45-50c on idle and do not cross 65c under cpu heavy games.
Amazing video, had the same seized pump, held it upright and recycled the fluid 3-4 times to get all the particles out. Was a ton of sand like particles and a couple big hard ones. Great video!
so, a big thing here, is to take that coldplate directional flow gasket off, and clean the microfins underneath. That debris had to get trapped somewhere, and if its like my Asetek CLC in my EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid, the microfins picked up a ton of the debris, and are clogged, leading to lower flow.
Have taken apart the GPU pump for maintenance/cleaning? if so, did it work? I have a hybrid card as well and I'm having trouble with it's pump. the thing overheats at any kind of load and sits at idle at about 60C. Radiator and tubes are completely cold. I know the pump is not completely dead because when I turn the system off and back on I can feel one of the tubes heat up a bit for a few minutes as if the pump is struggling to move the fluid upon startup before it shuts down again. So I've been thinking about taking it apart and cleaning, before considering spending hundredths of dollars in other solution. would you suggest to do so?
Thanks for the video. The little screws use a pz1 screwdriver. If you use a regular phillips head screwdriver, be very careful not to strip the #2 x 5/16" sheet metal screws as I did. You can refill the cooler without taking the brass heat plate off. Between the two hoses are two screws that secure the hoses to the top cover via a bottom cover. Undo those two screws after first removing the led cover, and the hoses will pop right out. They have two rubber o-rings on them as well. I'm going to use a 60/40 mix of distlled water and propylene glycol/hoat to fill after flushing with distilled water a few times.
I done this today and my copperplate on the inside was really dirty , mostly in the center full with some white hard substance , i scraped it gently with some toothpicks until most of it was gone . After that i used a very fine knife to go in every cooling fin . Cleaning with water and dishwasing soap for about 10 minutes . go with the fins to outside not opposite , that was not realy working . After this i used coppercleaner also for 10 minutes until mostly clean , this works a bit better i think . After that was done i cleaned again with dishwascher soap to get the coppercleaner out everywhere , rinse and clean serval times over . Next i tried to clean the radiator with deminerlised water until no more white flakes came out . Refill and put everything correctly togheter . waterleak tested by shaking the radiator and no leaks found . Now i have setup my pc again and i do not need to hit the tubes anymore to get the pump going anymore and i also did a PRIME 95 torture small FFT s max heat test and i see the results . Normaly i get fast to 100 Celcius , but now i only reaching 60 maximun Celcius at 140 watt core i7 8700K processor . Even the idle temps are half of wwhat it used to be , before 40 Celcius now 20 Celcius . THANK YOU John Soupir , i do not need to go and by a new watercooler now :) .
Thanks for the video. I was just experiencing high idle temps on my 8700k setup with a v2- Mid to-high 40c with fans and pump set to extreme using icue. I was getting so frustrated that I slammed my fist down onto the top of the case. Well, it must have done something within the pump or radiator because 2min later I was idling at 30c. When all else fails, get violent!
Wow thanks LMAO. I tried everything for the past few days to fix my high temps spike with the corsair h110i pump. I was so convinced it was the voltage thingy. But after reading your comment, i thought "what the hell" and slammed the shit out of the top of my case and the temps went from 100C to 70C during stress test lmao. Thanks man
Yeah I noticed high temps with mine after applying some new thermal paste, I couldn't figure out what was wrong so I thought to tap the water pipes and there must of been some blockage because the temp dropped by 15c and it still happens now and again for me.
@@eXTreemator I'm aware of that but it's an aio and my dad got it 2nd hand. So worst case scenario is replacing it with a new one when it finally fails.
@@xomegaxz5799 it already failed... It's clogged. Same happened to me. Shit corsair engineering. You can already buy an air radiator and put it on direct die (this is likely too much for you but this is what i gonna do), will be better than crapair with no warranty whatsoever. I took it apart, without watching any videos (too annoyed for those petty puml, and usually there wouldn't be a problem if not for incredible corsair cheapness, shit materials and design) those cheap chinese quality pumps are hardly serviceable, very hard to take it apart first time without damaging, pump fan can't be disassembabled at all (how the fuck it could be cleaned then?). I will be writing everywhere now how terrible corsair is, just imagine how they make powersupplies, don't trust them. And as you noticed no warranty! Old school maric business that needs to die
Under the circuit board is a drainplug i think you could use it to refill the pump. And you can lose the stuck motor without draining the cooling fluid, by turning it from behind the motor. Also under the circuit board is a small plastic piece attached to the motor axle.
Yes but there is no way to let the air escape. So the water does not go in. I ended up taking the tubes off from the water block, and just filling them with water, then reattaching them.
Had two of these h100i's, both started going at around 3-years, found that tapping/jiggling the tubing, and laying the case flat seemed to buy me a few weeks+ when it started acting up.
Hydro series comes with a 5 year warranty, so I wouldn't bother fixing it at 3 years when you could RMA. Personally, I'm here to research for a clogged pump on an 8 year old unit.
You can take the top electrical board up and dont remove the bottom circut board cause its wired to the pump. unscrew the two black screws near the tubes so the plastic cover that holds the pipes in the pump will come loose and then you can separate the pump from the tubes.
Okay friend. Your video was the defining moment where I knew my 10 year old or so h80i had a non-spinning pump. Just have to tell ya this little story. Mine must be the first version because the copper plate is rectangular rather than round, and once that plate comes off there is no way to get to the impeller/propeller - it's a fully sealed chunk of plastic with the motor and prop inside. Here's the weird thing - once I took off the copper plate fluid started gurgling out, just like you said it would. Thankfully I had a deep plastic dish to catch the fluid because DAMN did it stink - thin molasses brown in color. Tell you what - ever see and smell rotten Vermouth (like you make Martini's with)? Vermouth is only good for a short time after opening the bottle - no more than 30 days. Let it sit around in the cabinet for a couple years and it's the most horrible thing. The stuff that came out of my cooler looked and smelled EXACTLY like that. Makes me wonder if they used some sort of alcohol/water substance in there originally? The copper plate was very gunky & corroded. Overall the whole thing just looked and smelled to far gone to try and save it. Mounted up the regular old original Intel cooler and everything is just fine for the time being. Might go with another liquid cooler, but not the Chinese Corsair junk - don't care to have to replace the whole damn thing every 5 years or so. Thanks for your vid.
Hi All! I have a success story that might help this situation. It is super sketchy and I caution you to do it at your own risk. My H100i is from 2013 and is old. After watching this video and knowing that the H100i (a closed system) has a potential for internal blockages I wondered if vibrations or percussion could loosen the blockages enough to make the pump start working again on its own. I have a percussion massage gun similar to a HyperVolt. I put on a foam ball attachment and set the massage gun to its highest intensity and massaged the CPU block while the computer was running. Within 30 seconds of the "massage" my CPU temps dropped from 105C to 30-40C. My temps have been in that normal range ever since. I wouldn't have believed it and knew the risk that vibrations could bend a pin or screw with an HDD platter but I tried it anyway and it worked. It may work for you, but again try it at your own risk.
I just had the same issue and took off the pump, gave it some taps and and shakes. Back to how it was before. Only a temporary fix until it gets clogged up again. Still better than draining the thing.
My pump failed after 18 consecutive months of use. About 5% time the pump was under high rpm's. I am curious if my unit has same problem with the mechanical failure / debris. I already bought another unit, but it is worth a shot in fixing and using it for another build.
All corsair AIO's have a 5 year warrenty if you still have the receipt. You can contact them and they'll replace or if you bought another corsair they may just give you a refund like they're doing for me and let you keep the old one.
Antassium did you have the receipt I’m buying another cause I unfortunately not longer have the receipt when it’s clogged is that what cause the pump to flash red?
i took the aluminum radiator out and replace it with a 360mm copper magicool radiator + 1 alphacool dc lt 120l/h pump into it, work like a champ keep my 2600x 4.35ghz 1.45volt maximum gaming temp 72 degree ( 80-100% cpu load ) and 85 degree prime95 at ambient temp around 32-35 degree in celcius
This may come in handy since my friend gave this unit for free saying it won't work but he doesn't remember why so if it's a pumping problem I will try this.
Did you know the pump was clogged before you took it apart? My pump just stopped working and I’m thinking about trying to fix it before I buy a new one
I connected it to power (while out of the PC) and put my ear to the pump. When I connected power, I could hear a short humming sound that would stop after a second. I suspected this was the pump trying to spin up, failing, and then shutting down. Turns out that's exactly what was happening. So just check for the noise I described. If you hear it, it's probably just clogged!
I just cracked my H100iv2 open after it sat for 2 years not working. Mine has the same crystalized chunks that you're talking about. Must be the shitty coolant they were putting in these things. What a shame.
I have the same Corsair model and the pump is JAMMED. I don't have time to go through all that. Hey Corsair, why is there debris In the first place? CORSAIR = CRA_! COMPLETE JUNK. ONLY ONE YEAR AND IN TO THE GARBAGE.
Well fuck Corsair, hopefully I don’t regret it but I purchased me one of those infamous, Z73 NZXT Kraken CPU Coolers with the fancy displays, it gets here tomorrow lol. Just going to sell my H100i for parts for around $30 after eBay takes the fees and all that.
pozidrive #2. I used a small butane torch to gently heat the copper plate around the screw, but not the screw itself, to help loosen them. You also need to apply a LOT of downward force as you unscrew. I got 7/8 out no problem and the last one got stripped so I just ripped the copper plate off. It bent where the screw hole is, I tried my best to unbend the plate with some pliers. When I put it back together I will only use 7 screws update- i put it all back together with a mix of about 80% water and 20% automotive coolant. 7 screws went in fine but the plate is a little bent around the 8th screw, there's no leaks so far
Got mine used, didn't work. Took it apart and the crud was keeping the pump from spinning. However the screws were all stripped so someone had been in there before, possibly? not sure cause the original coolant was still there. Anyway its missing the white pin that holds the impeller stable. Not sure if it was lost, or got eaten by the impeller. Does anyone know where to get a replacement shaft pin? I know its a long shot.. Got it working with a metal nail, but it rattles nasty. Thanks for posting!
if you cut the hose to remove it from the radiator what is the best way to reattach it? do you have to heat the hose up and push it on the nipple? when you took the 4 screws out of top cover to expose the circuit board is there a temp sensor there that we have to watch out for when lifting the board away from the pump housing?
The USB port just plugs into one of the USB headers on the motherboard to provide information to the accompanying software, the pump plugs into one of the fan headers, most normally the cpu fan or pump header, and fans to the other CPU fan header.
wtf is wrong with corsair?, this is an expensive item compared to other brands but are they putting semen along with water in those AIOs?? Mine did the same thing H80i V2. Repaired it once, now it's failing again.
Your Khool John I have an H75 it just dies on me but bios says the pump is still pulling rpms so hmmm I'm curious about changing the water they say it's sealed unit do u know about changing the water please? thanks tons 100 out of 10 one like and sub and comment boss o7.
did you manage to refill it and get it to work again? and if so how did you do it? and did you empty and then refill or just top it up and what did you use? thanks in advance sorry for the many questions lol just want to see if mine is salvageable before i go out and buy a new one :) I have owned mine for around 3 years and every so often i hear noises come from the pump like small particles or air bubbles and the temps have risen from 35c idle to around 45c idle and under load the temps are now reaching around 80/85c all this is on a 6700k 4.5ghz oc at 1.32v about a year ago at full load i was only around the 65/70c.
Yes, I did get it refilled, in fact it's cooling my CPU as I type this. I did drain it completely. To refill I just poured in distilled water from the bottom, tilting the radiator and hoses to get all the air out. Then I let it run for a few minutes (I didn't put the screws back in just held the plate on) and emptied it again to rinse out anything that was left. Then I refilled it, put the plate back on (with screws this time} and that was it. It's been working great ever since! Ideally you should mix a little antifreeze with the distilled water to help prevent corrosion. From what you describe though it sounds like it might just be low on coolant. And if there are particles they haven't jammed the pump yet and can hopefully be flushed out. You might be able to just disconnect the hose to flush and refill it. I haven't removed the hosing from the h100i v2 but on the NXZT Krakens they just pull free with a little wiggle. Disconnect from the radiator side since that's made from aluminum instead of plastic like the pump. If you decide to take off the cold plate it's quick and easy with a short #1 Philips screwdriver. I have found them to be best. If you don't have one, go buy one. They are only a few dollars. Better to spend a few bucks on a screwdriver than to destroy your cooler. Here's what happens without the right tools: ua-cam.com/video/BtrZBcgutkg/v-deo.html I hope I helped. If you've got any more questions feel free to ask. :)
@@johnsoupir8209 hey so as an update, i thought i would re paste my cpu and see if that helped at all but the temps went even higher i re pasted twice just to make sure i didn't mess it up the first time i think when i removed the pump the air bubbles moved or the blockage moved i really do not know, all i know is that its worse and i had to go back to default clocks and i even used the advanced battery saver to limit my gpu to 80% speed (max) so just over a 3ghz all clocks rather than 4ghz and i also under volted the vcore by -0.150v that got my temps back to a good level at around 35c idle and no more than 60c while stressing this is only a temporary measure. I also found out that this product has 5 years warranty so i have emailed corsair for a RMA but ill have to wait a few days for a response probably longer because of new years... thanks for your reply and if the RMA doesn't work out i will go with plan b of taking it apart and trying the things you suggested :)
@@johnsoupir8209 Hi, I found your video very informative and I think I'm gonna do that too with my H80i V2 which I think is clogged or has a dead pump. And yes its hard to remove the screws on the copper plate if don't have the proper tools thats why I decided to buy a new set of screwdrivers to avoid it from loosing. Might as well replace the screws with new ones just in case I need to open it again. :) I have a question. How did you power up the pump without connecting it with a computer? I want to know that so I can test what is the real problem whether its clogging or dead pump. Thanks! :)
@@hondaguy1844 I plugged some breadboard pin wires into the 12v and ground of the pump plug. Then connected those to my 12v battery with some alligator clip wires. Anything that provides 12v will work. A 12v wall wart (adapter) would do the trick too. Just Google "PC fan header pinout" and you'll find diagrams showing what pins of the pump header to connect 12v and ground to.
Ya I’m about to recondition mine, also going to clean the microfins to make sure it’s clean. Any advice on what to refill it with? Still need to research that, lol
im planning on disassemble my h115i next week, i've read somewhere that you can disconnect the tubes from the radiator, and refill the system by submerging the rad in the coolant, and reconnect the pipes there.
I would recommend using a premix coolant like EK cryofuel clear. It has the necessary anti-microbial stuff, plus the necessary anti-corrosion stuff to prevent issues with mixed metal systems. Its what I used to refill my EVGA GTX 1080 FTW's hybrid cooler.
The whole grey plastic part with the logo pops right off. You don't even have to take anything else off first. However the logo is part of the grey plastic, so to make a custom logo you would probably have to replace that entire piece.
You could attempt to refill it like he said but you're definitly going to have air bubbles in the loop, best way is to remove the hosing and replace it and fill it from there.
You will have air bubbles in the system no matter what you do. Some are normal. What I did, was submerge the pump (avoiding the electronics) in a bowl of distilled water, with the radiator underneath the bowl and pump. Thus, it would push out the air, while taking in water. I let it run for about 10 minutes while being sure to shake the radiator every now and then to release more bubbles. Once I was satisfied, I sealed the system. I also made the mix 20% propylene glycol, 80% distilled water. The propylene glycol acts as an anti-freeze so the water will not freeze in low temps (even though the computer would be indoors), but it also helps prevent high temps by not only raising the boiling point of the mixture, but also the conductive characteristics of the mixture. This allows heat to be exhausted through the radiator faster and thus, lowers temperatures.
@@bestleesinna7702 If you submerge the pump without the copper bottom plate tightly connected (if I understood correctly Your description), the pump would run in local loop taking fluid into input directly from it's output, without sending any fluid to the radiator via connected hoses.
para el q no sepa usar liquido colorate tapa la lamina de cobre q tiene unas mini canaletas y se tapa esa canaletas como si fuera cristal de duros y es por eso q la bomba llega un punto q el motro se funde y pierde potencia por ello se daña 2 cosas la lamina de cobre tapada y bomba q se daño por esto mismo ya intente ponerle una nueva igual y el problema es q se jode la bomba para ser mas claro la bobina se funde y pierde potencia por q los mini imanes se rompen conclucion no se puede rescatar la bomba el resto si como radiador,coolers,tubos todo menos la bomba y lamina de cobre q es la tapa por q se calcome el cobre tambien eso por el colorante
NO PARA NADA liquido de fabirca es igual ya desarme 5 radiadores diferentes con mucho uso y liquido de fabrica y todos estan iguales no solo tapa el liquido verde la tapa de bronce sino tambien el radiador para q te des una idea ese liquido con eltiempo se pega al tapa de bronce y aluminio bien firme como pegamento yla unica forma q encontre para despepegarlo fue con un cuter con cuidado cada aleta de la tapa de bronce una por una y saque muchisimo de eso pegado lo recomendable es comprar una taoa igual nuevo para evitar este gran trabajo de limpieza luego limpiar eso me bajo 8 grados y mejor flujo tenia ya cargado con aguademineralizada ahora el problema es el radiador ya q vi con lupa y luz q su interior tiene eso pegado y eso nose bien como limpiarlo y destaparlo para q corra mejor flujo engo q buscar agun liquido q pueda disolver eso verde pegado dentro del radiador conclucion la bomba falla por q se tapa por el liquido de fabirca verde o usar algo como colorantes y al tener mas reudcido el flujo de agua por q se tapa radiador y tapa de bronce y no tiene potencia la bomba para trabajar asi por obtrucion ya q le falta mas potencia de precion a la bomba para poder trabajar en ese estado tapado nadie aclara eso q encontre de por q falla la bomba y encontre q es por eso y para calararme la duda use un radiador nuevo y sin limpiar la tapa
y seuia trabajando mal le puse la misma tapa nueva con ese radiador nuevo y magia mente la bomba revivio sin ningun problema conclucion falla la bomba por q se tapan las 2 cosas y tiene flujo reudcido por taparse para q te des una idea es como tener un caño de agua de hierro tapadopor la corrocion interna del caño o de barro y pasa agua aun pero con poco potencia a diferencia de un caño destapado q cuando abris la canilla sale fuerte y mucha cantidad lo mismo pasa aca el fallo es el liquido refijerante q tapa el radiador y tapa de bronce sus canaletas es lo q nadie aclaro q pasa eso y nadie parese q se dio cuenta de eso por no tener lupa de gran aumento la mayroia piensan q es la bomba la q se daña y no lo es ya q es muy simple la bomba tiene una placa con integrados y una bobina asi de simple es y es por ello q algunas se queman por los tan tapados q estan te diria q un 90% de bombas la puedes revivir si la limpias como yo o le cabias esas partes la revives
conclucion para mi no es recomendado usar esos liquidos lo mejor si lo compras nuevo de pirmera cortar las mangeras y cambiarlas por trasparentes sacarle ese liquido q le ponen y ponerle aguademineralizada ya q eso al ser pura y sin sales ni nada no tapa nada al no tener color y con un mini tanque llamado reservoiro cuando ves pasan unos meses y bajo la cantidad de agua lo unico q tenes q hacer es cargarlo de nuevo y nada mas ya q con el tiempo se evapora por los meses de uso de apoco y asi una bomba te durara mas de 5 años mi amigo no savia eso pero hiso esto con su bomba y aun no a fallado la bomba ni se quemo y eso q no savia de esos liquidos con color hay esta la verdad de los liquidos q nadie te dijo o dice por q falla la bomba depues de meses uso o años se cristalysa y pega ese mismo liquido
conclucion final se tapa por usar esos liquidos de fabrica o coloridos las mini laminas de bornce q trae la tapa de bronce como te das uenta de eso facil en corsair una mangera esta fria y la otra caliente por q esta caliente es simple por q se tapo los canales por esos liquidos y enves de pasar flujo 100 pasa 30 por eso la mangera esta caliente tengo q buscar un liquido q pueda remober eso asi dejo tambien el radiador destapado y limpio de esos residuos q se pegan a el bronce y cobre repuesta final no es la bomba sino estas 2 cosas q la bomba falla y un mal liquido q no aclaran la fabrica q pasa eso y para aclarar rescate 5 watercooling q funcionan de 10 la bomba con este mismo problema limpiandolo bien q lleva mucho tiempo y herramientas adecuadas
Fill it up as much as you can, ideally there should be zero air bubbles. I didn't measure exactly but when I was rinsing it out it took around 200mL to fill
@@anx.1606 Pull down the black "fittings" at the radiator with a flat screwdriver, then pull the hoses while turning them around. You can put them back easily. Pics: ibb.co/mq6C8R5
I would use Corsair HydroXSeries XL8, It's 20 for 1000ML bottle otherwise all it is if you wanna make it yourself is the following: Propanediol Glycol, Pure Water and Germicide. There is also a bunch of guides to make your own, Just note that if you use just water you will get corrosion which will cause issues; hence why there a anti corrosion added.
How the fuck did you unscrew the copper plate, at first I used screwdriver with a plastic handle, but the handle turned around the metal core(I've used this screwdriver with some tight screws). Then one with a metal handle, but that mistly starting slipping even with all my force
The temperature sensor on mine is doing this thing where it flashes from warning color to static color in the boot menu the temperature is 23°c/85°F but when I get to Windows and check the software it's fluctuates 100-138°f re-added thermal paste does the same thing
Refilled successfully by slowly pouring water in from the bottom. Fill it, run it for a minute and repeat until all the air is gone. I only had to do that maybe three times. I've been using it since without a problem.
@@johnsoupir8209 Cool thanks. I ended up contact Corsair support and to my surprise they replaced it with the latest model. Not bad for being 4+ yrs old!
@@turbobricksofficial Wow, that's great! Did you still have your original receipt? I've heard they won't do any warranty repairs/replacements if you don't.
How did you know the pump was blocked? My cpu temps often go over 90 and I don't know how to find out what the issue is... Icue seems to think everything is fine...
When I plugged it in and put my ear to the pump I couldn't hear the pump running. What I did hear was a short whining noise right when it powered up that stopped after a second. That was the sound of the motor trying to spin up but not being able to move and shutting down. If iCue is reading the pump RPM and is showing good speed then you've got another problem. It could be mounted loosely or the liquid in the loop could be low. It's not supposed to need refilling but it's possible. Shake the whole thing, does it sound like there's a lot of air in there? Is it possible that you forgot thermal paste? Edit: Was it running cool before? Or has it always gotten that hot?
@@johnsoupir8209 it's always been so hot, it's a 4700k which does run hot by nature, and also my ave ambient temp where I live is 30 to 35 degrees celcius, but the slightest bit of strain the cpu rockets to over 90.
Sounds like you have bad contact between the cooler and the CPU. Clean the cooler with ethanol, do the same with the backplate of the CPU, apply new quality thermal paste and attach the cooler again. Make sure to use cross pattern and torque evenly.
It would help to know how you had the AIO installed? Plus i would not listen to you because you never showed if the pump worked after tinkering. If you installed the AIO vertically with the hoses at the top you deserved what you got. I have a h80i v2 with just under 4 years of use if you use the corsair link software you can set the pump to performance of quiet, i had mine set to quiet.
Well, I picked it up off eBay for $20. So I don't know how it was installed previously. It's been working great since I refilled it. I threw this video up in a few minutes in hopes it might help someone understand how these pumps work. That's it. I have no desire to prove anything.
@@johnsoupir8209 It's not a point of proving anything, if you want to help people you should show them them the whole job. from start to finish. it would take a lot of guess work out of it. Question how did you fill it, and if you encountered any problems what were they. By answering this you will be helping people just by replying.
I think I answered in another comment, which I should probably pin. I refilled it with distilled water. Poured water into bottom of the pump while tilting the radiator around to release bubbles. Then I screwed the copper plate back on and installed it. I have since discovered that the hoses can be disconnected from the radiator, so you can submerge the radiator and the end of the tube while running the pump to ensure there is no air in the system. Most important tip is to use a #1 Phillips screwdriver to prevent stripping the screws. Also, the top doesn't need to be removed for accessing the pump. I should probably make a follow-up video at some point.
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Thanks, this video was the motivation i needed to open my pump and clean it out. Cpu Temps were capping around 100C prior to cleaning. After cleaning it dropped down to 45-50C. Fans now run quiet and happy, performance is back to normal. Pump is working again. Lots of debris inside. I flushed it out a few times and refilled it. If I need to open it again I will fill with either glycol or deionized/demineralized water. But this time I used standard tap water. Better then nothing and saved me from spending $$$. Cheers!
i have the same problem now, with my 8 yo corsair H80, mind telling how u do the backflush, did you detach the piping?, or you do it like this video, from the pump assembly?
i cleaned external fins, resit with new thermal paste and run it back, but i don't feel the pump moving, or any heat in the piping... i shake it a bit to see if there is coolant in there.. but cant hear anything - the next action is just to unassemble and clean the pump - i'll be my corsair tech support now.. been finding parts for H80 but cannot find it online...
My Corsair H45 was jammed bad. It was around 2.5 years old or so, was worked very hard like the pc often had to run for 3 days continuously. CPU temp was reaching 91-93c under load. Thinking that it might be time for a new AIO set, I took the radiator apart. Thing was so dusty you couldn't tell it was a radiator. Cleaned it up the best I could. Worked on the fan too. And voila! The temps are 45-50c on idle and do not cross 65c under cpu heavy games.
Amazing video, had the same seized pump, held it upright and recycled the fluid 3-4 times to get all the particles out. Was a ton of sand like particles and a couple big hard ones. Great video!
A suction cup of the same type used in removing a phone screen is perfect for removing the copper heat plate
so, a big thing here, is to take that coldplate directional flow gasket off, and clean the microfins underneath. That debris had to get trapped somewhere, and if its like my Asetek CLC in my EVGA GTX 1080 FTW Hybrid, the microfins picked up a ton of the debris, and are clogged, leading to lower flow.
Have taken apart the GPU pump for maintenance/cleaning? if so, did it work?
I have a hybrid card as well and I'm having trouble with it's pump. the thing overheats at any kind of load and sits at idle at about 60C. Radiator and tubes are completely cold. I know the pump is not completely dead because when I turn the system off and back on I can feel one of the tubes heat up a bit for a few minutes as if the pump is struggling to move the fluid upon startup before it shuts down again. So I've been thinking about taking it apart and cleaning, before considering spending hundredths of dollars in other solution. would you suggest to do so?
Thanks for the video. The little screws use a pz1 screwdriver. If you use a regular phillips head screwdriver, be very careful not to strip the #2 x 5/16" sheet metal screws as I did. You can refill the cooler without taking the brass heat plate off. Between the two hoses are two screws that secure the hoses to the top cover via a bottom cover. Undo those two screws after first removing the led cover, and the hoses will pop right out. They have two rubber o-rings on them as well. I'm going to use a 60/40 mix of distlled water and propylene glycol/hoat to fill after flushing with distilled water a few times.
I done this today and my copperplate on the inside was really dirty , mostly in the center full with some white hard substance , i scraped it gently with some toothpicks until most of it was gone .
After that i used a very fine knife to go in every cooling fin .
Cleaning with water and dishwasing soap for about 10 minutes . go with the fins to outside not opposite , that was not realy working .
After this i used coppercleaner also for 10 minutes until mostly clean , this works a bit better i think .
After that was done i cleaned again with dishwascher soap to get the coppercleaner out everywhere , rinse and clean serval times over .
Next i tried to clean the radiator with deminerlised water until no more white flakes came out .
Refill and put everything correctly togheter . waterleak tested by shaking the radiator and no leaks found .
Now i have setup my pc again and i do not need to hit the tubes anymore to get the pump going anymore and i also did a PRIME 95 torture small FFT s max heat test and i see the results .
Normaly i get fast to 100 Celcius , but now i only reaching 60 maximun Celcius at 140 watt core i7 8700K processor .
Even the idle temps are half of wwhat it used to be , before 40 Celcius now 20 Celcius .
THANK YOU John Soupir , i do not need to go and by a new watercooler now :) .
Thanks for the video. I was just experiencing high idle temps on my 8700k setup with a v2- Mid to-high 40c with fans and pump set to extreme using icue.
I was getting so frustrated that I slammed my fist down onto the top of the case. Well, it must have done something within the pump or radiator because 2min later I was idling at 30c. When all else fails, get violent!
Wow thanks LMAO. I tried everything for the past few days to fix my high temps spike with the corsair h110i pump. I was so convinced it was the voltage thingy. But after reading your comment, i thought "what the hell" and slammed the shit out of the top of my case and the temps went from 100C to 70C during stress test lmao. Thanks man
@@xomegaxz5799 thanks man for what you fucking dumps. Pumped is clogged probably. Get out it beofre hitting it up, and this is not a solution.
Yeah I noticed high temps with mine after applying some new thermal paste, I couldn't figure out what was wrong so I thought to tap the water pipes and there must of been some blockage because the temp dropped by 15c and it still happens now and again for me.
@@eXTreemator I'm aware of that but it's an aio and my dad got it 2nd hand. So worst case scenario is replacing it with a new one when it finally fails.
@@xomegaxz5799 it already failed... It's clogged. Same happened to me. Shit corsair engineering. You can already buy an air radiator and put it on direct die (this is likely too much for you but this is what i gonna do), will be better than crapair with no warranty whatsoever. I took it apart, without watching any videos (too annoyed for those petty puml, and usually there wouldn't be a problem if not for incredible corsair cheapness, shit materials and design) those cheap chinese quality pumps are hardly serviceable, very hard to take it apart first time without damaging, pump fan can't be disassembabled at all (how the fuck it could be cleaned then?). I will be writing everywhere now how terrible corsair is, just imagine how they make powersupplies, don't trust them. And as you noticed no warranty! Old school maric business that needs to die
Under the circuit board is a drainplug i think you could use it to refill the pump. And you can lose the stuck motor without draining the cooling fluid, by turning it from behind the motor. Also under the circuit board is a small plastic piece attached to the motor axle.
Yes but there is no way to let the air escape. So the water does not go in. I ended up taking the tubes off from the water block, and just filling them with water, then reattaching them.
Had two of these h100i's, both started going at around 3-years, found that tapping/jiggling the tubing, and laying the case flat seemed to buy me a few weeks+ when it started acting up.
Hydro series comes with a 5 year warranty, so I wouldn't bother fixing it at 3 years when you could RMA. Personally, I'm here to research for a clogged pump on an 8 year old unit.
@@Farren246 Yeah, I RMA'd the first one @ 3 years, but they don't extend the 5 years when the replacement one goes... :/
You can take the top electrical board up and dont remove the bottom circut board cause its wired to the pump. unscrew the two black screws near the tubes so the plastic cover that holds the pipes in the pump will come loose and then you can separate the pump from the tubes.
Okay friend. Your video was the defining moment where I knew my 10 year old or so h80i had a non-spinning pump.
Just have to tell ya this little story. Mine must be the first version because the copper plate is rectangular rather than round, and once that plate comes off there is no way to get to the impeller/propeller - it's a fully sealed chunk of plastic with the motor and prop inside. Here's the weird thing - once I took off the copper plate fluid started gurgling out, just like you said it would. Thankfully I had a deep plastic dish to catch the fluid because DAMN did it stink - thin molasses brown in color. Tell you what - ever see and smell rotten Vermouth (like you make Martini's with)? Vermouth is only good for a short time after opening the bottle - no more than 30 days. Let it sit around in the cabinet for a couple years and it's the most horrible thing. The stuff that came out of my cooler looked and smelled EXACTLY like that. Makes me wonder if they used some sort of alcohol/water substance in there originally? The copper plate was very gunky & corroded. Overall the whole thing just looked and smelled to far gone to try and save it.
Mounted up the regular old original Intel cooler and everything is just fine for the time being. Might go with another liquid cooler, but not the Chinese Corsair junk - don't care to have to replace the whole damn thing every 5 years or so.
Thanks for your vid.
Hi All! I have a success story that might help this situation. It is super sketchy and I caution you to do it at your own risk. My H100i is from 2013 and is old.
After watching this video and knowing that the H100i (a closed system) has a potential for internal blockages I wondered if vibrations or percussion could loosen the blockages enough to make the pump start working again on its own.
I have a percussion massage gun similar to a HyperVolt. I put on a foam ball attachment and set the massage gun to its highest intensity and massaged the CPU block while the computer was running.
Within 30 seconds of the "massage" my CPU temps dropped from 105C to 30-40C. My temps have been in that normal range ever since.
I wouldn't have believed it and knew the risk that vibrations could bend a pin or screw with an HDD platter but I tried it anyway and it worked. It may work for you, but again try it at your own risk.
I just had the same issue and took off the pump, gave it some taps and and shakes. Back to how it was before. Only a temporary fix until it gets clogged up again. Still better than draining the thing.
My pump failed after 18 consecutive months of use. About 5% time the pump was under high rpm's. I am curious if my unit has same problem with the mechanical failure / debris. I already bought another unit, but it is worth a shot in fixing and using it for another build.
All corsair AIO's have a 5 year warrenty if you still have the receipt. You can contact them and they'll replace or if you bought another corsair they may just give you a refund like they're doing for me and let you keep the old one.
Antassium did you have the receipt I’m buying another cause I unfortunately not longer have the receipt when it’s clogged is that what cause the pump to flash red?
i took the aluminum radiator out and replace it with a 360mm copper magicool radiator + 1 alphacool dc lt 120l/h pump into it, work like a champ keep my 2600x 4.35ghz 1.45volt maximum gaming temp 72 degree ( 80-100% cpu load ) and 85 degree prime95 at ambient temp around 32-35 degree in celcius
You ran both pumps? Didn’t interfere with each other? Also thinking of replacing the alum rad with a good copper
Thanks for the clear and thorough video. Did you get it working in the end? How did you end up filling it?
exactly what i'm wondering, i'm happy to pull mine apart but refilling seems a bit of a mystery right now
I've just ordered a new one, I snapped one of the pipes off trying to undo the screws 😂😂😂
This may come in handy since my friend gave this unit for free saying it won't work but he doesn't remember why so if it's a pumping problem I will try this.
you dind't check the coldplate fins ? What if they are clogged too ?
should have shown the debris
How did you connect external power to it?
Did you know the pump was clogged before you took it apart? My pump just stopped working and I’m thinking about trying to fix it before I buy a new one
I connected it to power (while out of the PC) and put my ear to the pump. When I connected power, I could hear a short humming sound that would stop after a second. I suspected this was the pump trying to spin up, failing, and then shutting down. Turns out that's exactly what was happening. So just check for the noise I described. If you hear it, it's probably just clogged!
I just cracked my H100iv2 open after it sat for 2 years not working. Mine has the same crystalized chunks that you're talking about. Must be the shitty coolant they were putting in these things. What a shame.
What screwdriver do we need for the copper plate? I almost made all screws blunt now.. please help!
Men you could remove it?
I have the same Corsair model and the pump is JAMMED. I don't have time to go through all that. Hey Corsair, why is there debris In the first place? CORSAIR = CRA_! COMPLETE JUNK. ONLY ONE YEAR AND IN TO THE GARBAGE.
Hey bro, how did you removed the copper plate screws, can you share what tools you used?
Well fuck Corsair, hopefully I don’t regret it but I purchased me one of those infamous, Z73 NZXT Kraken CPU Coolers with the fancy displays, it gets here tomorrow lol. Just going to sell my H100i for parts for around $30 after eBay takes the fees and all that.
I found it difficult to remove this copper plate... besides the rotor filament broke... L2. I don't know where is the part that needs to be soldered
What screwdriver did you use to unscrew the copper plate? I tried every screw i have it just doesn’t budge for some reason
same i finished by drilling into them cause i destroyed them. No idk how i can mount it back. Was probably a bad idea
pozidrive #2. I used a small butane torch to gently heat the copper plate around the screw, but not the screw itself, to help loosen them. You also need to apply a LOT of downward force as you unscrew. I got 7/8 out no problem and the last one got stripped so I just ripped the copper plate off. It bent where the screw hole is, I tried my best to unbend the plate with some pliers. When I put it back together I will only use 7 screws
update- i put it all back together with a mix of about 80% water and 20% automotive coolant. 7 screws went in fine but the plate is a little bent around the 8th screw, there's no leaks so far
Got mine used, didn't work. Took it apart and the crud was keeping the pump from spinning. However the screws were all stripped so someone had been in there before, possibly? not sure cause the original coolant was still there. Anyway its missing the white pin that holds the impeller stable. Not sure if it was lost, or got eaten by the impeller.
Does anyone know where to get a replacement shaft pin? I know its a long shot.. Got it working with a metal nail, but it rattles nasty.
Thanks for posting!
I want to take one apart to expand the hoses.
its easy, i did on mine one. i can help.....
Do you know what are the size of those small screws on copper plate?
thanks, mine is also misbehaving.
if you cut the hose to remove it from the radiator what is the best way to reattach it? do you have to heat the hose up and push it on the nipple? when you took the 4 screws out of top cover to expose the circuit board is there a temp sensor there that we have to watch out for when lifting the board away from the pump housing?
What connector/cable powers the pump ? Is it one of the two fan connectors or the usb cord?
The USB port just plugs into one of the USB headers on the motherboard to provide information to the accompanying software, the pump plugs into one of the fan headers, most normally the cpu fan or pump header, and fans to the other CPU fan header.
wtf is wrong with corsair?, this is an expensive item compared to other brands but are they putting semen along with water in those AIOs?? Mine did the same thing H80i V2. Repaired it once, now it's failing again.
Your Khool John I have an H75 it just dies on me but bios says the pump is still pulling rpms so hmmm I'm curious about changing the water they say it's sealed unit do u know about changing the water please? thanks tons 100 out of 10 one like and sub and comment boss o7.
did you manage to refill it and get it to work again? and if so how did you do it? and did you empty and then refill or just top it up and what did you use? thanks in advance sorry for the many questions lol just want to see if mine is salvageable before i go out and buy a new one :)
I have owned mine for around 3 years and every so often i hear noises come from the pump like small particles or air bubbles and the temps have risen from 35c idle to around 45c idle and under load the temps are now reaching around 80/85c all this is on a 6700k 4.5ghz oc at 1.32v about a year ago at full load i was only around the 65/70c.
Yes, I did get it refilled, in fact it's cooling my CPU as I type this. I did drain it completely. To refill I just poured in distilled water from the bottom, tilting the radiator and hoses to get all the air out. Then I let it run for a few minutes (I didn't put the screws back in just held the plate on) and emptied it again to rinse out anything that was left. Then I refilled it, put the plate back on (with screws this time} and that was it. It's been working great ever since! Ideally you should mix a little antifreeze with the distilled water to help prevent corrosion.
From what you describe though it sounds like it might just be low on coolant. And if there are particles they haven't jammed the pump yet and can hopefully be flushed out. You might be able to just disconnect the hose to flush and refill it. I haven't removed the hosing from the h100i v2 but on the NXZT Krakens they just pull free with a little wiggle. Disconnect from the radiator side since that's made from aluminum instead of plastic like the pump. If you decide to take off the cold plate it's quick and easy with a short #1 Philips screwdriver. I have found them to be best. If you don't have one, go buy one. They are only a few dollars. Better to spend a few bucks on a screwdriver than to destroy your cooler. Here's what happens without the right tools: ua-cam.com/video/BtrZBcgutkg/v-deo.html
I hope I helped. If you've got any more questions feel free to ask. :)
@@johnsoupir8209 hey so as an update, i thought i would re paste my cpu and see if that helped at all but the temps went even higher i re pasted twice just to make sure i didn't mess it up the first time i think when i removed the pump the air bubbles moved or the blockage moved i really do not know, all i know is that its worse and i had to go back to default clocks and i even used the advanced battery saver to limit my gpu to 80% speed (max) so just over a 3ghz all clocks rather than 4ghz and i also under volted the vcore by -0.150v that got my temps back to a good level at around 35c idle and no more than 60c while stressing this is only a temporary measure.
I also found out that this product has 5 years warranty so i have emailed corsair for a RMA but ill have to wait a few days for a response probably longer because of new years...
thanks for your reply and if the RMA doesn't work out i will go with plan b of taking it apart and trying the things you suggested :)
@@johnsoupir8209 Hi, I found your video very informative and I think I'm gonna do that too with my H80i V2 which I think is clogged or has a dead pump. And yes its hard to remove the screws on the copper plate if don't have the proper tools thats why I decided to buy a new set of screwdrivers to avoid it from loosing. Might as well replace the screws with new ones just in case I need to open it again. :) I have a question. How did you power up the pump without connecting it with a computer? I want to know that so I can test what is the real problem whether its clogging or dead pump. Thanks! :)
@@hondaguy1844 I plugged some breadboard pin wires into the 12v and ground of the pump plug. Then connected those to my 12v battery with some alligator clip wires. Anything that provides 12v will work. A 12v wall wart (adapter) would do the trick too. Just Google "PC fan header pinout" and you'll find diagrams showing what pins of the pump header to connect 12v and ground to.
@@johnsoupir8209 i want to remove the entire block to add it to a hardline system do you know if the pipes attach to a g1/4 thread?
Ya I’m about to recondition mine, also going to clean the microfins to make sure it’s clean. Any advice on what to refill it with? Still need to research that, lol
im planning on disassemble my h115i next week, i've read somewhere that you can disconnect the tubes from the radiator, and refill the system by submerging the rad in the coolant, and reconnect the pipes there.
I would recommend using a premix coolant like EK cryofuel clear. It has the necessary anti-microbial stuff, plus the necessary anti-corrosion stuff to prevent issues with mixed metal systems. Its what I used to refill my EVGA GTX 1080 FTW's hybrid cooler.
Chubbysumo I plan on replacing my alum rad with a copper rad, still I bet EK is the way to go, ty
put the butter back in the fridge bro
My cpu under the load gets super hot and cooler is cold. Is it pump? I got the same pump. Thanks
How likely is leakage with these AIO's?
I cant speak to leakage after its been opened. But if you dont open it up, corsair, and thermaltake are very reliable and rarely leak.
Pravvus Corsiar and thermaltake don’t make their own coolers pretty much all the coolers they make are made by asetek
did you notice if you would be able to change the logo i.e. put your own logo ? thanks for great video
The whole grey plastic part with the logo pops right off. You don't even have to take anything else off first. However the logo is part of the grey plastic, so to make a custom logo you would probably have to replace that entire piece.
@@johnsoupir8209 Thanks for the info John
can anybody tell me please, corsair water system, there liquid inside conduct electric current or no????
I would assume so, since it is a *_water_* cooler.
how did you refill it? I want to do the same.
You could attempt to refill it like he said but you're definitly going to have air bubbles in the loop, best way is to remove the hosing and replace it and fill it from there.
You will have air bubbles in the system no matter what you do. Some are normal. What I did, was submerge the pump (avoiding the electronics) in a bowl of distilled water, with the radiator underneath the bowl and pump. Thus, it would push out the air, while taking in water. I let it run for about 10 minutes while being sure to shake the radiator every now and then to release more bubbles. Once I was satisfied, I sealed the system. I also made the mix 20% propylene glycol, 80% distilled water. The propylene glycol acts as an anti-freeze so the water will not freeze in low temps (even though the computer would be indoors), but it also helps prevent high temps by not only raising the boiling point of the mixture, but also the conductive characteristics of the mixture. This allows heat to be exhausted through the radiator faster and thus, lowers temperatures.
Listen to “Best Lee Sin NA”, that is the best fail safe method to refill this water cooled pump system.
@@bestleesinna7702 If you submerge the pump without the copper bottom plate tightly connected (if I understood correctly Your description), the pump would run in local loop taking fluid into input directly from it's output, without sending any fluid to the radiator via connected hoses.
Sounds like a young Christian Slater talking...LOL.
What's the material of the impeller in this? Looks like its a newer "metal" type? but can you confirm :)
I'm pretty sure the impeller was plastic. This was a while ago though, so I can't be certain.
para el q no sepa usar liquido colorate tapa la lamina de cobre q tiene unas mini canaletas y se tapa esa canaletas como si fuera cristal de duros y es por eso q la bomba llega un punto q el motro se funde y pierde potencia por ello se daña 2 cosas la lamina de cobre tapada y bomba q se daño por esto mismo ya intente ponerle una nueva igual y el problema es q se jode la bomba para ser mas claro la bobina se funde y pierde potencia por q los mini imanes se rompen conclucion no se puede rescatar la bomba el resto si como radiador,coolers,tubos todo menos la bomba y lamina de cobre q es la tapa por q se calcome el cobre tambien eso por el colorante
si usas liquido colorante chino pues si te la tapa jajaja.
NO PARA NADA liquido de fabirca es igual ya desarme 5 radiadores diferentes con mucho uso y liquido de fabrica y todos estan iguales no solo tapa el liquido verde la tapa de bronce sino tambien el radiador para q te des una idea ese liquido con eltiempo se pega al tapa de bronce y aluminio bien firme como pegamento yla unica forma q encontre para despepegarlo fue con un cuter con cuidado cada aleta de la tapa de bronce una por una y saque muchisimo de eso pegado lo recomendable es comprar una taoa igual nuevo para evitar este gran trabajo de limpieza luego limpiar eso me bajo 8 grados y mejor flujo tenia ya cargado con aguademineralizada ahora el problema es el radiador ya q vi con lupa y luz q su interior tiene eso pegado y eso nose bien como limpiarlo y destaparlo para q corra mejor flujo engo q buscar agun liquido q pueda disolver eso verde pegado dentro del radiador conclucion la bomba falla por q se tapa por el liquido de fabirca verde o usar algo como colorantes y al tener mas reudcido el flujo de agua por q se tapa radiador y tapa de bronce y no tiene potencia la bomba para trabajar asi por obtrucion ya q le falta mas potencia de precion a la bomba para poder trabajar en ese estado tapado nadie aclara eso q encontre de por q falla la bomba y encontre q es por eso y para calararme la duda use un radiador nuevo y sin limpiar la tapa
y seuia trabajando mal le puse la misma tapa nueva con ese radiador nuevo y magia mente la bomba revivio sin ningun problema conclucion falla la bomba por q se tapan las 2 cosas y tiene flujo reudcido por taparse para q te des una idea es como tener un caño de agua de hierro tapadopor la corrocion interna del caño o de barro y pasa agua aun pero con poco potencia a diferencia de un caño destapado q cuando abris la canilla sale fuerte y mucha cantidad lo mismo pasa aca el fallo es el liquido refijerante q tapa el radiador y tapa de bronce sus canaletas es lo q nadie aclaro q pasa eso y nadie parese q se dio cuenta de eso por no tener lupa de gran aumento la mayroia piensan q es la bomba la q se daña y no lo es ya q es muy simple la bomba tiene una placa con integrados y una bobina asi de simple es y es por ello q algunas se queman por los tan tapados q estan te diria q un 90% de bombas la puedes revivir si la limpias como yo o le cabias esas partes la revives
conclucion para mi no es recomendado usar esos liquidos lo mejor si lo compras nuevo de pirmera cortar las mangeras y cambiarlas por trasparentes sacarle ese liquido q le ponen y ponerle aguademineralizada ya q eso al ser pura y sin sales ni nada no tapa nada al no tener color y con un mini tanque llamado reservoiro cuando ves pasan unos meses y bajo la cantidad de agua lo unico q tenes q hacer es cargarlo de nuevo y nada mas ya q con el tiempo se evapora por los meses de uso de apoco y asi una bomba te durara mas de 5 años mi amigo no savia eso pero hiso esto con su bomba y aun no a fallado la bomba ni se quemo y eso q no savia de esos liquidos con color hay esta la verdad de los liquidos q nadie te dijo o dice por q falla la bomba depues de meses uso o años se cristalysa y pega ese mismo liquido
conclucion final se tapa por usar esos liquidos de fabrica o coloridos las mini laminas de bornce q trae la tapa de bronce como te das uenta de eso facil en corsair una mangera esta fria y la otra caliente por q esta caliente es simple por q se tapo los canales por esos liquidos y enves de pasar flujo 100 pasa 30 por eso la mangera esta caliente tengo q buscar un liquido q pueda remober eso asi dejo tambien el radiador destapado y limpio de esos residuos q se pegan a el bronce y cobre repuesta final no es la bomba sino estas 2 cosas q la bomba falla y un mal liquido q no aclaran la fabrica q pasa eso y para aclarar rescate 5 watercooling q funcionan de 10 la bomba con este mismo problema limpiandolo bien q lleva mucho tiempo y herramientas adecuadas
I got the same model how much too fill it in again would it be like half cup??
Fill it up as much as you can, ideally there should be zero air bubbles. I didn't measure exactly but when I was rinsing it out it took around 200mL to fill
@@MrMagichobo21 thanks
Nice
Does anyone know how to safely disconnect the hoses?
At the radiator you can get the tubes off, i just disassembled mine. Pm me if you wanna know how.
@@attilalipcsei3163 yeah I would love go I'm trying to attach a new coolant tube system and tank.
Attila Lipcsei i would like to know how u did that. Did u just unplugged the hoses?
@@anx.1606 Pull down the black "fittings" at the radiator with a flat screwdriver, then pull the hoses while turning them around. You can put them back easily.
Pics: ibb.co/mq6C8R5
@@attilalipcsei3163 legend mate
did you refill it with water or mineral oil?
I would use Corsair HydroXSeries XL8, It's 20 for 1000ML bottle otherwise all it is if you wanna make it yourself is the following: Propanediol Glycol, Pure Water and Germicide. There is also a bunch of guides to make your own, Just note that if you use just water you will get corrosion which will cause issues; hence why there a anti corrosion added.
Mine is i think its dead and donno how to fix it
How to refill water
How the fuck did you unscrew the copper plate, at first I used screwdriver with a plastic handle, but the handle turned around the metal core(I've used this screwdriver with some tight screws).
Then one with a metal handle, but that mistly starting slipping even with all my force
Running the pump dry is a bad idea. Try not to do that again. They are designed to run under fluids.
The bearings are supposed to be lubricated by the water, but I'm not too worried about running it dry for a few seconds.
how to remove the pump ??
Which version of H100i is that exactly?
H100i V2
The temperature sensor on mine is doing this thing where it flashes from warning color to static color in the boot menu the temperature is 23°c/85°F but when I get to Windows and check the software it's fluctuates 100-138°f re-added thermal paste does the same thing
Any update on refilling w/o creating an air lock and also how well it has performed since?
Refilled successfully by slowly pouring water in from the bottom. Fill it, run it for a minute and repeat until all the air is gone. I only had to do that maybe three times. I've been using it since without a problem.
@@johnsoupir8209 Cool thanks. I ended up contact Corsair support and to my surprise they replaced it with the latest model. Not bad for being 4+ yrs old!
@@turbobricksofficial Wow, that's great! Did you still have your original receipt? I've heard they won't do any warranty repairs/replacements if you don't.
without receipt you won't get your unit replaced or serviced, it's mandatory @@johnsoupir8209
Please tell me you added bacterialcide? Or whatever it's called.
i want to remove the entire block to add it to a hardline system do you know if the pipes attach to a g1/4 thread?
How did you know the pump was blocked?
My cpu temps often go over 90 and I don't know how to find out what the issue is...
Icue seems to think everything is fine...
When I plugged it in and put my ear to the pump I couldn't hear the pump running. What I did hear was a short whining noise right when it powered up that stopped after a second. That was the sound of the motor trying to spin up but not being able to move and shutting down. If iCue is reading the pump RPM and is showing good speed then you've got another problem. It could be mounted loosely or the liquid in the loop could be low. It's not supposed to need refilling but it's possible. Shake the whole thing, does it sound like there's a lot of air in there? Is it possible that you forgot thermal paste?
Edit: Was it running cool before? Or has it always gotten that hot?
@@johnsoupir8209 it's always been so hot, it's a 4700k which does run hot by nature, and also my ave ambient temp where I live is 30 to 35 degrees celcius, but the slightest bit of strain the cpu rockets to over 90.
Sounds like you have bad contact between the cooler and the CPU. Clean the cooler with ethanol, do the same with the backplate of the CPU, apply new quality thermal paste and attach the cooler again. Make sure to use cross pattern and torque evenly.
if it goes over 90c I think its blocked or did you overclocking your cpu ?
It would help to know how you had the AIO installed? Plus i would not listen to you because you never showed if the pump worked after tinkering.
If you installed the AIO vertically with the hoses at the top you deserved what you got. I have a h80i v2 with just under 4 years of use if you use the corsair link software you can set the pump to performance of quiet, i had mine set to quiet.
Well, I picked it up off eBay for $20. So I don't know how it was installed previously. It's been working great since I refilled it. I threw this video up in a few minutes in hopes it might help someone understand how these pumps work. That's it. I have no desire to prove anything.
@@johnsoupir8209 It's not a point of proving anything, if you want to help people you should show them them the whole job. from start to finish. it would take a lot of guess work out of it. Question how did you fill it, and if you encountered any problems what were they. By answering this you will be helping people just by replying.
I think I answered in another comment, which I should probably pin. I refilled it with distilled water. Poured water into bottom of the pump while tilting the radiator around to release bubbles. Then I screwed the copper plate back on and installed it. I have since discovered that the hoses can be disconnected from the radiator, so you can submerge the radiator and the end of the tube while running the pump to ensure there is no air in the system. Most important tip is to use a #1 Phillips screwdriver to prevent stripping the screws. Also, the top doesn't need to be removed for accessing the pump. I should probably make a follow-up video at some point.
Curious why you did this instead of just RMAing it?
Maybe it is out of warranty?