Corsair H100i V2 Teardown | Pump Failure Shown
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- Опубліковано 22 вер 2024
- My Corsair H100i V2 Died a while back so today I figure out why.
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Doing this now. Having some luck with the screws. I got some ice cubes and pressed them into the copper immediately before attempting to unscrew. The things hasn't been that cold before (which helps) and the thermal contraction from cooling the plate down I think might have loosened the grip on the screws to make it manageable. Love me some hot/cold for getting tight bits looser.
did have trouble with 1 screw. I used a dremel to turn it into a flat head with minimal dmg to the plate. That gave me the torque to get the sucker out.
Another tip, if the intention is to repair, would be to have a soldering iron to detach the top pcb from the bottom. Trying to remove them together will invariably rip the tiny copper wires from the stator windings to the control board/bottom PCB.
Which is a little tricky to fix. I managed by carefully uncoiling one length on either side of the relevant coils to get enough slack to play with and resolder the smaller pcb. Likely all for naught. My copper plate and fins are as messed as above. The fins were grindy when I first got to rotate them but after cleaning out the grit, they turn smoothly.
you can take out the pump by removing the top cover and pcb!
Its 99% the pcb that fails.
Unsolder the pump coils, ad a fan connector to it, plug it in a fan header and set it to voltage control (NOT PWM!)
Good to go! now you just need to connect the fans straight to the motherboard....
Epic suggestion. Thank you!
Bro, you good...😂
The way you were drilling the radiator
Haha!! I had to show all my other hardware what's gonna happen if they act up on me. Keeps the overclock more stable 😆
But how old was the cooler - how long had you been running it before the pump failed?
I belive that one was part of a used computer I bought, so hard to say on an exact age. I know the antimicrobial fluids they use don't last forever.
All of these Asetek-made H100V2's are doomed to fail. Some will get more lucky than others. I have several that were in use in workstations that failed, and the common culprit is self clogging from the radiator corroding and clogging up the skived fin 'coldplate'. In some cases the corrosion is so bad that it blocks the radiator flow fins and limits flow rate to zero. If that's not bad enough, the plate to housing seals are made of mostly rubber and not silicone, and they degrade significantly, and their debris gets in the mix which furthers the clogging. If you're able to service the fluid I would recommend doing so. If you get a unused NOS one in box before putting it into service and replacing the water in there every 6 months to a year. Use a proper liquid cooling system not anti-freeze, premix of choice. I use a solution of Red Line Water Wetter and distilled water. If you service one and it still doesn't seem to be cooling well, and you have an IR camera, look at the radiator pump-out side hose, you'll see that side of the radiator get warm up to a point then a sharp gradient to cool - that's how you know the rad passages are likely clogged. I suppose you could try to remove the pump to rad tubing and try cleaning the rad. Just stay away from these damned things. The 1st Gen ones Corsair supposedly 'designed' in house (when they got away from using Asetek) are terrible too, IMO. Parting shot - Corsair is a marketing company, they brand and sell product. They don't really make anything in house. If they did I'm sure they'd probably have more success and lower failure rates.
The issue is the screwdriver your using. The longer the screwdriver shaft the more torque you will have. Also you can use a wrench for more leverage around the metal shaft of the screw driver. Shorter drivers are convenient 99 percent of the time for small electronics because it makes it less likely to over torque the screw threads.
I see how the diameter of the handle of the screwdriver affects torque but not sure what the length of the shaft has to do with torque, can you explain please?
@Sofian375 It has to do with the angle of the screwdriver on longer shafts, grip force, and some people believe the added unwinding force of the metal as it is strained.
Screws are called pozidriv, you need a pozidriv screw driver.
great vid, thanks for taking the time to make
I ended up stripping the screws as well. To fix it, I ended up getting an angle grinder and grinded the screws off because they were half sticking out and wouldn't move.
Mine failed after more then 12 years, I have older model corsair, still have my original cooler that came with i72600k
Excellent vid...Has anyone found an alternate/better method of removing the copper plate without drilling through the damn thing?
I'm not sure, it was a blind teardown. You would think it was serviceable but jeeze it's like they glued the screws in with locktite
I just posted a comment. I used ice cubes hoping the thermal contraction of the copper plate will be enough to make the screws workable. And it seems to have worked.
Not that they came off easy but I didnt strip them
I'm glad you had success, I wasn't trying to save I obviously, I just wanted to know why it failed. But if you can save it you clean it out with alcohol and refill with distilled water.
Had 2 in 2 different machines and both failed after 5-6 years, I'm sticking to good fan coolers from now on
that’s a long time though
Thanks for the video, mate can you write the name of the brand "Esotech" is it like that?? I want to find those small screws.
Thanks for this
Bro you cut electronic wires so you can trow away that pump :D
I have the same pump. and i was cleaning out dust today. 28/1-22 and i got new thermal paste on to. and now my computer is hot as hell.
LoL
Mine broke in middle
5 year warranty. Send it back to Corsair.
Haha, I don't thing their warranty covers drill holes
How to fail as a human 🙄