well, apparently you're like the one stop place for all LED lighting!. thank you for making these videos. watched the whole video wealth of LED knowledge.
Very detailed and in depth video the internet really needed this, I really needed this with so many different types of leds, this was very helpful, could you also please make a video on power supplies how to choose an ultra slim power supply that suits your project and how to calculate amps required...
For sure, more content around that is coming but meanwhile take a look at this video, it'll teach you everything you need to know how to calculate your own setup: quinled.info/2020/09/26/power-injection-livestream/
I normally don't like AND subscribe, but this had all the information I needed in one video. I'm making a cyberpunk jacket and needed to know what i was ordering. Thanks!
Man, i was looking at led strips online for Halloween. Little did i know it could be so complex. A big thank you for your expert explanation. This video is a huge help. Great setup for the vid too, very nice. You must be the Led Guru ;). Top job !!
Thank you very much. A very comprehensive guide that explains the differences and where each strip is more suitable to an application. Today I learned. Thank you. Cheers 😊
Brilliant overview, so much useful info packed into this video, can’t thank you enough for putting the time and effort into this. For those of us who make videos, 45 mins of a video can easily be 5 hours of planning, setting up scripting etc..
Yap! Thanks a lot! Really great! I would like to trigger the pixels with my edrums through MIDI DMX bouncing the light to a white wall. No, I got a 4 LED PAR and I need a view effects when hitting the cymbals. :-) Today morning I ordered a 5m 60LED/m WS2811 and I think that was the right choice. Together with the a SP201E DMX Decoder and a 12V 100W PS. It doesn't need to be that granular because I have only 512 DMX adresses available. I tried a 1m LED bar stage light with 8 segments and even that looked great already. Thanks a lot for your content, dude!
I think the word you are forgetting to use a lot more when trying to explain how the effects look at different diatances is "resolution." Using a COB strip with many leds is going to completely alter your desired effect towards a negative result if you were to be viewing from a far distance (house eves..etc) simply because of that high resolution being produced. But at a distance we cant see to that detail to enjoy the effect being produced, so once the lesser number of led is used, the lower resolution accommodates our vision with the larger display..or to be said correctly...the lower resolution. The concept clicks much quicker with those that have dealt with diff size & number of pc monitors & the distances they are being viewed from. Luv your channel man, & have aquired a pile of knowledge in such a short time from your videos. Def support worthy. Just in time for my first real large-scale (but simple) outdoor led project. 196ft x 2 runs. A 3rd run would be the bomb..but mannnn...we be talking some serious ⚡️ Pi's⚡️ !!! Thanks for your time & knowledge.🐐
Many thanks, I found this very interesting - sorry it took me 8 Months to find this video. Keep up the good work - just ordered a dig2go to play with. I'm also a big fan of LEDS for many many years - ever since I saw my first blue one to buy at £40.00 for a very dim pale blue 3mm LED.
Thank you for reliably throwing cold water on my most fevered LED project dreams. Something you don't really state but perhaps it's obvious to most people: wiring, especially silicone, gets RIDICLOUSLY expensive at thick gauges when the lengths add up. It may not actually be the case, but my intuition tells me (from having recently bought a medium-sized spool of the stuff) that it _may_ be cheaper to segment a longer strip and drive the second half of the data with another microcontroller rather than run data and power out to the middle? Not with a quin-led, obviously, but just the bare $4 controller? At 5v? Just an idea I can't shake.
So much to take in on this video. Your whole channel has been a great help. I'm deciding to try and tackle my outdoor patio / deck lighting with led's and its been such a daunting task. I'm gonna start with the DIG-OCTA system to try and tackle it all. I'm slightly confused on what to be using in longer runs either the 5m 96LEDs/m, 12v, ws2811 RGB vs. 5m, 720LEDs/m, 24v, ws2811, COB My question being, is the COB strip coated enough for outdoor use?
What is the best led strip to produce video or even still pictures in a 24"x 24" or less space located outdoors? Your videos are awesome and there is soo much information to digest! Thanks, Jeff
@IntermitTech actually use to display video as in making a video wall, not for atmosphere lighting to help with recording a video. I'm wanting to make a small 2' diameter LED screen to display video and/or videos at an outdoor event. My apologies for not being clear! I've subscribed and have watched most of you videos...but man is there a lot to consider when it comes down to it! I'll be buying my parts from you to support your channel. You do an awesome job!
Aah, well some generic ws2812b can do fine for that. Make sure to lay it out on a board so you can do lots of power injection and then running 5v is no issue really. Resolution will be mega low or it had to be big, but yeah.
@IntermitTech in addition to your above recommendation...can you grade me on what I think I've learned from your videos? This is what I came up with bad off?: 1. Digihud quad 12v 2. Ws2815 rgbw 12v ip65 144p/m 3 Eps 35...not sure if it will allow me to show pictures though? 4 possibly a data booster 5. Run data separately.
Happy New Year! I have purchased two reels of ws2815 4 pin 5050 and duel signal ip67 RGB's from Amazon. Each reel length is 16.4 ft. I have fabricated both reels into four separate wheel lights for a vehicle. I purchased a Dc to DC 12V 10A converter regulator and a SP630E all in one controller. My Question: Will I need anything else to run these 33' of lights???
Great explanation, I want to add the THX blue light behind the tv 📺…… I want a deep blue….. from your video 🤔 I’m gathering RGB Because the white will make it bland 🤔🤔🤔🤔
And then there are fairy lights.... I am working on a project that cant use strips but fairy lights would be perfect excpet there is not a lot of variety as far as I know.. The ones I bught from Dr. Zss's are not very dense. Is there a source of addressable fairy lights that are an inch or less apart? Would be great to do a program on fairy lights abd their issues. Enjoy your work and I am learning a lot fom you.
I'm definitely interested in a high CRI addressable white led strip if someone ever makes one, so I hope you'll make an update on the site or here if you find one you recommend. Thanks!
How do we deal with an individual LED that goes out? Or do we? Thanks. A short video on what to do with a non-working LED or short strip - especially with the addressable ones.
Generally you'd have to cut them out and the splice it together or replace the section you cut out, but it can be a real bother if it's mounted somewhere or there is weatherproofing...
@@IntermitTech The WS2815 has two data lines for that reason. Only if two leds next to each other die, the whole strip won't work, otherwise it's fine expect for the broken led
as a car guy i thought 144LED/M was the way to go because more leds means less hot/cold spots and smooth animations, but half way through the video i see 60LED/M looks ok but 96LED/M looks best. as a car guy i would like to avoid a bunch of 1M strips so 2-3 meters is perfect to do under glow and grill lights and can be cut shorter if needed no I'm sure you'll address this in the same video if not another video on your channel which I just subscribed to, but after learning this I'm curious about power injection so that I can get the same brightness across all lights at the same time
Can the digquad be used for things other than LED control? If so, have you made any video discussing other possible uses? I'm going on my second season using the dig-quad and it's been rock solid. Thank you.
The board is pretty purpose built to control digital LEDs, but in theory the hardware is an ESP32 with power management (5v-24v), power distribution and fusing, level-shifters and some other features all on a single board, combined with Ethernet if you want, etc. So if you have any application for any of those features maybe? Glad to hear it's been going strong for you!
@@IntermitTech Thanks for the prompt reply. I didnt really have any thing in mind, just curious. Are you familiar with Proffie boards? They are used to build/ run the sound and LEDs for high end, neopixel light sabers.
Really looking forward to your analog controller. Also why have all of my rgbw strips started flickering? It’s almost like the data is bad even though they worked for a few months with no problems.
This would be great. I'd be interested in an high CRI warm white strip too. Also i'd love to know your thoughts on the narrow strips the 4mm and 5mm strips that are available. I'm considering using one for ambilight on my TV as I only have a 15mm gap behind it as it's flush mount and some of that is venting I shouldn't really block.
What an awesome informative video. What would you recommend to use for under cabinet light in a kitchen? We have had the contract supply LED lights there before but I have replaced them twice now...crazy expensive. I know you mentioned that the SK6812 would not be a good option in a living area as a primary lighting. When ours did work we had them on all the time and mostly turning off everything else. With WLED I would use them 85% of the time in just white while the other 15% used for the holiday & birthday effects. I've only started researching the WLED stuff over the past couple of days but I'm not gone down the rabbit hole. Originally I was researching how to do outdoor permanent holiday lighting. I'll get to that later. The inside will be my training point. Any advise here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Yeah so it's mostly about the CRI value of sk6812 RGBW it's just not great quality white light at about CRI70, it'll be horrible for food and such under that light too since it's missing a bunch of spectrum and it has a bad spectrum balance. Currently the best way to go with analog LED strip for those things, but I currently don't have a pre-assembled board for that, only DIY.
Do you have any info related to product selection for cold weather climates? Strings Vs Strips? I'm located near Ottawa Canada and we see big temperature swings. In the winter as cold as -35 and in summer as hit as +35 celsius???? Thanks in advance 😁
Do you know if it's possible to control an RGB-IC strip and a White (warm/cool) strip from a single WLED controller please? Having watched your video, I'm thinking about using 5V in a custom light for my kitchen that has RGB for uplighting and White for downlighting. Or maybe this is false economy and I should just opt for an RGBW strip and use WLED's features to control the relevant individual lights as required.
I’m building a poker table with a raised arm rest/rail. Under that rail will be a 1.5 inch tall acrylic diffuser. I’m probably going to go with an rgbic strip even tho we will mainly use white(easiest to peek at hole cards). The poker table is going to be 84”x42”, should I go with a smd style strip a COB strip? I’m leaning COB but I am a little concerned that it’ll be over diffused since they’re already diffused right on the strip. I guess I could always crank the brightness? They will be sitting very close to the diffuser, maybe half inch away at most.
Hmm, few things to digest here. If white is a goal, don't use anyrhing RGB only, that's a horrible "white" (it's not actually white light, it's white colored light, which isn't the same thing). Get something at least RGBW and while a lot better it still isn't great (still low CRI). In regards to diffusion, you either want diffusion or not, I don't feel like the COB will make the real difference there since it's zones they light up, they just blend better. I guess there is such a thing as too much diffusion because then everything will blend together too much and always become washed out, but no clue when that happens, I feel it's more dependant on spacing then amount of LEDs though.
The only reason I use WS2815 is the backup channel, but recently I've started to question how worried we should be about an IC dying? It's never really happened to me. Is it a real concern when doing installs that you can't repair?
I just recently started looking at these. I'd figured out the voltage differences, but not how all the IP ratings affected the diffusion of the light. I know I'll look it up, but on the 12 volt models, does the data line need to be @ 12 volts also, can you just use a common ground? (edit:) Subscribed, I like you no BS approach!
Yes if you want anything near decent white RGBW is best. Generally it's still not great for primary lighting because of low CRI quality, but for under stair lighting something like ws2814 or sk6812 RGBW would be fine I'd think.
Bookmarks: controllers 1:04; voltage drop Calculator for cable thickness 10:00; 12V LED 5V esp circuit required, Driver requirements mention 11:37; addressable Led power sheet ( pw actually used ) 13:13; ways around 5v vs 12V 20:48; mentioning better LED options 31:30; mentioning number of data channels/nr of LEDs/meter 33:05; mention&explanation of better LEDs on bright variant 35:35; controller used in this video 39:28;
I might be missing something but I cant see a link on the comparison page for the 322/m strip? How would you rate the whites produces on this strip? Im looking for a COB strip for under-counter (kitchen) lighting. Thanks!
Depends, if it's for a bit of accent lighting and fun, digital RGB or RGBW. If it has any primary lighting function whatsoever, especially in the kitchen, CRI90 or CRI95 analog white LED strip. Otherwise you're really going to have a bad time. Sadly digital sk6812 RGBW even with it's dedicated white is still only around CRI70 so not suited as the primary lighting source.
Hello, i question about power injection. If i use a led strip ws2815 12v, 10m 60w/m connection in serie , i need to inject power on second led strip? Thanks
7x 10m is quite long, I'd look at 24v COB RGBW for instance, otherwise you are going to have a hell of wiring such setups. Take a look at some of my more recent LED strip test videos. :)
@@dansantoso48 Sure ws2815 can be a good choice too if you can have a one or two power runs! And individually addressable 60LEDs/m can look great for sure!
@@dansantoso48 Yes although you will have to spread them over multiple data connections, as long as those are coming from the same board and you stay under about 2000 LEDs in total they can act as one giant LED strip.
Is there a way I could email an in depth question to you? I have a project in my head and I’m brand new to addressable LEDs and I have questions before I spend my hard earned money.
Nearly completed wiring up my under bed and desk 12v addressable leds and now realise they're going to be 3 leds per pixel. Also great to know they can be in sync with WLED. No overheating issues with coated white leds as garage lights that may be on for hours?
Depends how much wattage they are if high watts per meter make sure to put them in a profile to keep them a bit cooler otherwise lifetime goes down quickly.
What's the best way to find out what IC a particular strip is using? For instance, I picked up a strip with a Gledopto Zigbee controller, but considering switching to DIY/Quinled. How can I reverse engineer the chip being used (if there is indeed an addressable chip being used at all.)
Well that would be the first step, determining if it's an analog or digital LED strip. If digital and using external chips you can try to look up which type. If not, things get a lot more difficult and it comes down to just trying if it works
Always recommend *GS8208* over WS2815! It's the better than WS2815, WS2811, etc! It has Gamma Correction and the others do not. GS8208 dimming effects are much better and more gradual than WS2815. Each LED is addressable. However GS8208 is the same as WS2815 in regards to power consumption, as full intensity blue, red, or green will consume the same power as going full intensity white.
I have a question?, I have a LED strip ws 2812 B 100 meters, a strip of two meters is attached to the wall, total 50 strips are attached, total LED is 6000, which controller will be used for this? That works with audio
Got the sk6812 332/ per meter at 5m being impossible , I tore my car apart installed and now they’re all off and wonky. Looks great here but It uses to much injection for me to even try to fix it. Thinking of redoing with 12v because it’s an insane amount of light for the price practically unusable. Not sure if they have an arrow to follow like the other pair of ws2812 same issue.
I'm in the same boat, I used sk6812 5v on my slingshot. I agree too much power injection is needed. I'm gonna rip it all out and go with 12v. I really want the white channel. I see there's 12v sk6812 a little pricey, but it's probably worth it.
Sk6812 seems to be pretty dim in this example, is that just how it’s configured or does having the extra white led decrease the usual output of the rub leds?
The individual diodes are slightly smaller and a little less reflection area inside the package. But also it wasn't in IP65 which some others where which would spread out the glow a bit more. If you take the power sheet and compare power used that would give slightly less light also (in theory, if both are the same lm/w). So yes, I'd say for pure colors and such sk6812 is slightly less bright.
Hi, i love LED strips, been working with them for years in my house now. Unfortunately they need to replaced and im thinking about adressable lightstrips. One question keeps buzzing my mind; when you extend a strip, how does the controller know the adresses of the extended part? (eg: i need 6 meters, buy many 5m strips, and cut one meter to extend a 5M to 6M. How will it react as one large strip?
Every LED strips off one LED worth of data and passes the rest on to the next one, this way they don't really need to be aware of the others and how many. In the controller you just enter the correct amount, done!
What an epic comparison Quindor! I've never seen such a broad and accurate comparion of led strips, well done. Perhaps another interesting thing to check in one of your future videos: ambilight, and more specifically: 12 volt ws2811 RGB Bright versus 5 volt SK6812 RGBW. That would be interesting because of two competing thoughts: ws2811 has super bright colors while SK6812 has the white subpixel for awesome nuances in color reproduction. I'm really curious how those two unique features would compete to each other for ambilight.
Interesting idea, also compared to APA102 because of how it works differently on protocol level and has less limitations on total amount of LEDs and color mixing and such. I'll try to do more about that in the future too!
Thanks for the video. Super informative. Wondering, with the comments about the SK6812 (relatively) bad CRI, did anyone consider running two strips next to each other for indirect light (e.g. recessed ceiling)? One for effects (either RGB or RGBW) and one for high(er) quality scene light (SK6812 WWA). If the environment allows to run both next to each other, wouldnt that give the best of two worlds?
Actually... That triggered an interesting thought: 1. SK6812 for effects 2. Analog WCW (or WW/CW combined) with high CRI Thanks. Will test that out :-)
Sure I think the 12v ws2811 bright would be ideal for that, because of the layout and diffusion per 3 addressable is no issue and then you get really bright vibrant colors and 12v which makes voltage drop a bit less!
Oh no, certainly not do that. It's great for colors and such but that's it. Get at least RGBW but even that isn't suited for primary lighting you'll need high CRI analog for that.
Constant current analog strips actually do exist, digitally per 3 for 12v and per 6 for 24v kind of does that, but each color LED needs a certain vokgage so in series with changing colors and intensities it becomes very very tricky and basically not possible. Also ws2815 kind of uses a constant current sort of construction, but that's also what makes it much less efficient (100%red burns of 200% other power basically).
@@IntermitTech thanks for the reply. I guess that makes sense what you are saying about the addressable LED strips being harder to do constant current operation.
This guy is incredible. We must protect him at all costs
Lol I hope that includes me with my channel ♥️ But yeah I agree 100%
well, apparently you're like the one stop place for all LED lighting!. thank you for making these videos. watched the whole video wealth of LED knowledge.
The most useful information online about DIY RGB projects 👍
Dude, your awesome. I was pretty confused till i watched this
You still are
Found comparing the differences between the strips very helpful, nice to see a comparison and gives me options for projects
Always a pleasure learning details like this..and my 7 year old daughter likes you voice..Thank you
Very detailed and in depth video the internet really needed this, I really needed this with so many different types of leds, this was very helpful, could you also please make a video on power supplies how to choose an ultra slim power supply that suits your project and how to calculate amps required...
For sure, more content around that is coming but meanwhile take a look at this video, it'll teach you everything you need to know how to calculate your own setup: quinled.info/2020/09/26/power-injection-livestream/
I normally don't like AND subscribe, but this had all the information I needed in one video. I'm making a cyberpunk jacket and needed to know what i was ordering. Thanks!
Man, i was looking at led strips online for Halloween. Little did i know it could be so complex. A big thank you for your expert explanation. This video is a huge help. Great setup for the vid too, very nice. You must be the Led Guru ;). Top job !!
incredibly dense and informative! Much appreciation!!
Thank you very much. A very comprehensive guide that explains the differences and where each strip is more suitable to an application. Today I learned. Thank you. Cheers 😊
Thanks for the really in depth explanation.
Thank you so much for an incredibly comprehensive and clear video on these strips! Really appreciate this!
Brilliant overview, so much useful info packed into this video, can’t thank you enough for putting the time and effort into this. For those of us who make videos, 45 mins of a video can easily be 5 hours of planning, setting up scripting etc..
Yap! Thanks a lot! Really great! I would like to trigger the pixels with my edrums through MIDI DMX bouncing the light to a white wall. No, I got a 4 LED PAR and I need a view effects when hitting the cymbals. :-) Today morning I ordered a 5m 60LED/m WS2811 and I think that was the right choice. Together with the a SP201E DMX Decoder and a 12V 100W PS. It doesn't need to be that granular because I have only 512 DMX adresses available.
I tried a 1m LED bar stage light with 8 segments and even that looked great already.
Thanks a lot for your content, dude!
"I just love blinking lights!" Oh yeah! I love colored lights... And now - with your footage - I am going crazy.
Always been interested in Smart LEDs and wanted to thank you for sharing an immense knowledge base to learn from!
I think the word you are forgetting to use a lot more when trying to explain how the effects look at different diatances is "resolution." Using a COB strip with many leds is going to completely alter your desired effect towards a negative result if you were to be viewing from a far distance (house eves..etc) simply because of that high resolution being produced. But at a distance we cant see to that detail to enjoy the effect being produced, so once the lesser number of led is used, the lower resolution accommodates our vision with the larger display..or to be said correctly...the lower resolution. The concept clicks much quicker with those that have dealt with diff size & number of pc monitors & the distances they are being viewed from. Luv your channel man, & have aquired a pile of knowledge in such a short time from your videos. Def support worthy. Just in time for my first real large-scale (but simple) outdoor led project. 196ft x 2 runs. A 3rd run would be the bomb..but mannnn...we be talking some serious
⚡️ Pi's⚡️ !!! Thanks for your time & knowledge.🐐
Many thanks, I found this very interesting - sorry it took me 8 Months to find this video. Keep up the good work - just ordered a dig2go to play with. I'm also a big fan of LEDS for many many years - ever since I saw my first blue one to buy at £40.00 for a very dim pale blue 3mm LED.
Awesome, this is a fun informational watch, I really appreciate all of the details and explanations. Thank you love you :)
Thank you so much for this video. You can now count me as better educated ref. LED lighting. Nicely done !
As someone just getting into this, this was fantastic
Really quality information on LEDs!
would like to see more discussion/videos on LEDs that have a clock signal.. ie the APA102, HD107/108 etc..
Suggestion respectively: show the viewers the diff at a distance of about 20+ft...then that will sum it up quick !
🤘😁🤘
Thank you for reliably throwing cold water on my most fevered LED project dreams. Something you don't really state but perhaps it's obvious to most people: wiring, especially silicone, gets RIDICLOUSLY expensive at thick gauges when the lengths add up. It may not actually be the case, but my intuition tells me (from having recently bought a medium-sized spool of the stuff) that it _may_ be cheaper to segment a longer strip and drive the second half of the data with another microcontroller rather than run data and power out to the middle? Not with a quin-led, obviously, but just the bare $4 controller? At 5v? Just an idea I can't shake.
WOW ! I LEARNED SOME MUCH THINGS !!! THANK YOU
Wow amazing video! Thanks for it all!
damn thats so much knowledge. thanks for sharing.
This is the reference I need!
Which one would u use for a cloudwall for a nice effect
Well done. Very nice video!
Great. Idea. What’s a good, bright 12v addressable white only (would
Like warm white and daylight options))
So much good info! Wounderful! =)
So much to take in on this video. Your whole channel has been a great help. I'm deciding to try and tackle my outdoor patio / deck lighting with led's and its been such a daunting task. I'm gonna start with the DIG-OCTA system to try and tackle it all. I'm slightly confused on what to be using in longer runs either
the 5m 96LEDs/m, 12v, ws2811 RGB vs. 5m, 720LEDs/m, 24v, ws2811, COB
My question being, is the COB strip coated enough for outdoor use?
What brand of ferrule and ferrule crimp tool do you use?
I generally use stuff from Aliexpress, I have it listed on my tools and equipment page on quinled.info
What is the best led strip to produce video or even still pictures in a 24"x 24" or less space located outdoors?
Your videos are awesome and there is soo much information to digest!
Thanks,
Jeff
Check my analog LED section for Auxmer 24v CRI95 stip, that's also most I use for my film lighting you see in all my videos!
@IntermitTech actually use to display video as in making a video wall, not for atmosphere lighting to help with recording a video. I'm wanting to make a small 2' diameter LED screen to display video and/or videos at an outdoor event.
My apologies for not being clear! I've subscribed and have watched most of you videos...but man is there a lot to consider when it comes down to it!
I'll be buying my parts from you to support your channel. You do an awesome job!
Aah, well some generic ws2812b can do fine for that. Make sure to lay it out on a board so you can do lots of power injection and then running 5v is no issue really.
Resolution will be mega low or it had to be big, but yeah.
@IntermitTech in addition to your above recommendation...can you grade me on what I think I've learned from your videos? This is what I came up with bad off?:
1. Digihud quad 12v
2. Ws2815 rgbw 12v ip65 144p/m
3 Eps 35...not sure if it will allow me to show pictures though?
4 possibly a data booster
5. Run data separately.
Happy New Year! I have purchased two reels of ws2815 4 pin 5050 and duel signal ip67 RGB's from Amazon. Each reel length is 16.4 ft. I have fabricated both reels into four separate wheel lights for a vehicle. I purchased a Dc to DC 12V 10A converter regulator and a SP630E all in one controller. My Question: Will I need anything else to run these 33' of lights???
Great explanation, I want to add the THX blue light behind the tv 📺…… I want a deep blue….. from your video 🤔 I’m gathering RGB
Because the white will make it bland 🤔🤔🤔🤔
Yes, good conclusion!
And then there are fairy lights.... I am working on a project that cant use strips but fairy lights would be perfect excpet there is not a lot of variety as far as I know.. The ones I bught from Dr. Zss's are not very dense. Is there a source of addressable fairy lights that are an inch or less apart? Would be great to do a program on fairy lights abd their issues. Enjoy your work and I am learning a lot fom you.
Awesome thanks this is really helpful information 👍
can we mix up ws2811 with ws2815 or ws2812 with sk6812 within the same led channel?
I'm definitely interested in a high CRI addressable white led strip if someone ever makes one, so I hope you'll make an update on the site or here if you find one you recommend. Thanks!
You may like the APA102 white-only strip. I an a stickler for light quality and I use the WW in my favourite projects
Een hele mooie uitleg over de ledstrips . Heel leerzaam .
How do we deal with an individual LED that goes out? Or do we? Thanks. A short video on what to do with a non-working LED or short strip - especially with the addressable ones.
Generally you'd have to cut them out and the splice it together or replace the section you cut out, but it can be a real bother if it's mounted somewhere or there is weatherproofing...
@@IntermitTech The WS2815 has two data lines for that reason. Only if two leds next to each other die, the whole strip won't work, otherwise it's fine expect for the broken led
Yes, ws2815, ws2813, etc. but things like sk6812 don't have other advantages so it's now always clear cut what to go for.
Thanks a lot for the video. Very helpful :)
as a car guy i thought 144LED/M was the way to go because more leds means less hot/cold spots and smooth animations, but half way through the video i see 60LED/M looks ok but 96LED/M looks best.
as a car guy i would like to avoid a bunch of 1M strips so 2-3 meters is perfect to do under glow and grill lights and can be cut shorter if needed
no I'm sure you'll address this in the same video if not another video on your channel which I just subscribed to, but after learning this I'm curious about power injection so that I can get the same brightness across all lights at the same time
Thnx! And I do, here is all there is to learn about doing power injection quinled.info/the-ultimate-led-strip-power-injection-guide/
would these be bright enough to use as taillights for a car?
Thanks to the real and correct explanation, 👌🏻
Can the digquad be used for things other than LED control? If so, have you made any video discussing other possible uses? I'm going on my second season using the dig-quad and it's been rock solid. Thank you.
The board is pretty purpose built to control digital LEDs, but in theory the hardware is an ESP32 with power management (5v-24v), power distribution and fusing, level-shifters and some other features all on a single board, combined with Ethernet if you want, etc.
So if you have any application for any of those features maybe?
Glad to hear it's been going strong for you!
@@IntermitTech Thanks for the prompt reply. I didnt really have any thing in mind, just curious. Are you familiar with Proffie boards? They are used to build/ run the sound and LEDs for high end, neopixel light sabers.
Really looking forward to your analog controller. Also why have all of my rgbw strips started flickering? It’s almost like the data is bad even though they worked for a few months with no problems.
This would be great. I'd be interested in an high CRI warm white strip too. Also i'd love to know your thoughts on the narrow strips the 4mm and 5mm strips that are available. I'm considering using one for ambilight on my TV as I only have a 15mm gap behind it as it's flush mount and some of that is venting I shouldn't really block.
What an awesome informative video. What would you recommend to use for under cabinet light in a kitchen? We have had the contract supply LED lights there before but I have replaced them twice now...crazy expensive. I know you mentioned that the SK6812 would not be a good option in a living area as a primary lighting. When ours did work we had them on all the time and mostly turning off everything else. With WLED I would use them 85% of the time in just white while the other 15% used for the holiday & birthday effects. I've only started researching the WLED stuff over the past couple of days but I'm not gone down the rabbit hole. Originally I was researching how to do outdoor permanent holiday lighting. I'll get to that later. The inside will be my training point. Any advise here would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
Yeah so it's mostly about the CRI value of sk6812 RGBW it's just not great quality white light at about CRI70, it'll be horrible for food and such under that light too since it's missing a bunch of spectrum and it has a bad spectrum balance.
Currently the best way to go with analog LED strip for those things, but I currently don't have a pre-assembled board for that, only DIY.
You are a God.
Do you have any info related to product selection for cold weather climates? Strings Vs Strips? I'm located near Ottawa Canada and we see big temperature swings. In the winter as cold as -35 and in summer as hit as +35 celsius???? Thanks in advance 😁
Do you know if it's possible to control an RGB-IC strip and a White (warm/cool) strip from a single WLED controller please?
Having watched your video, I'm thinking about using 5V in a custom light for my kitchen that has RGB for uplighting and White for downlighting. Or maybe this is false economy and I should just opt for an RGBW strip and use WLED's features to control the relevant individual lights as required.
Well explained 👍
Good morning, so rgbw is not good because it changes the appearence of the materials? it is better a classic rgb one? thank you
I’m building a poker table with a raised arm rest/rail. Under that rail will be a 1.5 inch tall acrylic diffuser. I’m probably going to go with an rgbic strip even tho we will mainly use white(easiest to peek at hole cards). The poker table is going to be 84”x42”, should I go with a smd style strip a COB strip? I’m leaning COB but I am a little concerned that it’ll be over diffused since they’re already diffused right on the strip. I guess I could always crank the brightness? They will be sitting very close to the diffuser, maybe half inch away at most.
Hmm, few things to digest here. If white is a goal, don't use anyrhing RGB only, that's a horrible "white" (it's not actually white light, it's white colored light, which isn't the same thing). Get something at least RGBW and while a lot better it still isn't great (still low CRI).
In regards to diffusion, you either want diffusion or not, I don't feel like the COB will make the real difference there since it's zones they light up, they just blend better.
I guess there is such a thing as too much diffusion because then everything will blend together too much and always become washed out, but no clue when that happens, I feel it's more dependant on spacing then amount of LEDs though.
Great video.
The only reason I use WS2815 is the backup channel, but recently I've started to question how worried we should be about an IC dying? It's never really happened to me. Is it a real concern when doing installs that you can't repair?
I just recently started looking at these. I'd figured out the voltage differences, but not how all the IP ratings affected the diffusion of the light.
I know I'll look it up, but on the 12 volt models, does the data line need to be @ 12 volts also, can you just use a common ground?
(edit:) Subscribed, I like you no BS approach!
I need it for a long distance project. Question -- If only one led burns, what happens to the rest of the strip?
Hi , where are the links for those led strip? I like tge cob rgb. Can it produce amber light as well? Can u please share the link to buy it?
Could you add the WS2818 to your comparision? I'm interested especially in differences to WS2811 (bright) which I'm currently using.
Video suggestion: how to install outdoors with surge protection, lightening protection, and grounding.
I want to do under step outdoor lighting. I want color at times and just white other. Will the RGBW be the best bet?
Yes if you want anything near decent white RGBW is best. Generally it's still not great for primary lighting because of low CRI quality, but for under stair lighting something like ws2814 or sk6812 RGBW would be fine I'd think.
Why does the white turn on with the blue and not any other color ?
What is the best COB - RGB IC with WW from Amazon
Bookmarks: controllers 1:04; voltage drop Calculator for cable thickness 10:00; 12V LED 5V esp circuit required, Driver requirements mention 11:37; addressable Led power sheet ( pw actually used ) 13:13; ways around 5v vs 12V 20:48; mentioning better LED options 31:30; mentioning number of data channels/nr of LEDs/meter 33:05; mention&explanation of better LEDs on bright variant 35:35; controller used in this video 39:28;
I might be missing something but I cant see a link on the comparison page for the 322/m strip? How would you rate the whites produces on this strip? Im looking for a COB strip for under-counter (kitchen) lighting.
Thanks!
What kind of LED strips do you recommend to be used in the Kitchen? (lights to be installed under the cabinets)
Depends, if it's for a bit of accent lighting and fun, digital RGB or RGBW. If it has any primary lighting function whatsoever, especially in the kitchen, CRI90 or CRI95 analog white LED strip. Otherwise you're really going to have a bad time. Sadly digital sk6812 RGBW even with it's dedicated white is still only around CRI70 so not suited as the primary lighting source.
@@IntermitTech appreciate all your insights and prompt response. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Hello, i question about power injection. If i use a led strip ws2815 12v, 10m 60w/m connection in serie , i need to inject power on second led strip? Thanks
Hi I just learning what to buy. For home theater room 7x10m which one do u recommend? I will be using diffuse led casing.
Thanks
7x 10m is quite long, I'd look at 24v COB RGBW for instance, otherwise you are going to have a hell of wiring such setups. Take a look at some of my more recent LED strip test videos. :)
@@IntermitTech i bought 2815 12v. I will using a few run with different power in each wall.
@@dansantoso48 Sure ws2815 can be a good choice too if you can have a one or two power runs! And individually addressable 60LEDs/m can look great for sure!
@@IntermitTech thanks this is my 1st time with led strip. Can i merge them into group with wled so all function as 1 long strip?
@@dansantoso48 Yes although you will have to spread them over multiple data connections, as long as those are coming from the same board and you stay under about 2000 LEDs in total they can act as one giant LED strip.
Where can i find the code for these animations? especially that one at 34m looks amazing!
There are all built-in effects of WLED running on my boards, no coding needed! :)
Hello. Great run down of the latest available. Very valuable information. Do you do personal consultation for projects?
Thnx! But I do not, I try to provide the information so people can use it themselves.
Is there a way I could email an in depth question to you? I have a project in my head and I’m brand new to addressable LEDs and I have questions before I spend my hard earned money.
Nearly completed wiring up my under bed and desk 12v addressable leds and now realise they're going to be 3 leds per pixel. Also great to know they can be in sync with WLED. No overheating issues with coated white leds as garage lights that may be on for hours?
Depends how much wattage they are if high watts per meter make sure to put them in a profile to keep them a bit cooler otherwise lifetime goes down quickly.
Is there led pixels for the WWA? Those would be some kick-ass Christmas lights. 😊😉
Yes, some do exist, I believe Ray wu on Aliexpress sells some types.
@@IntermitTech thanks. I'll definitely take a look
What's the best way to find out what IC a particular strip is using? For instance, I picked up a strip with a Gledopto Zigbee controller, but considering switching to DIY/Quinled. How can I reverse engineer the chip being used (if there is indeed an addressable chip being used at all.)
Well that would be the first step, determining if it's an analog or digital LED strip. If digital and using external chips you can try to look up which type. If not, things get a lot more difficult and it comes down to just trying if it works
Always recommend *GS8208* over WS2815! It's the better than WS2815, WS2811, etc! It has Gamma Correction and the others do not. GS8208 dimming effects are much better and more gradual than WS2815. Each LED is addressable. However GS8208 is the same as WS2815 in regards to power consumption, as full intensity blue, red, or green will consume the same power as going full intensity white.
I have a question?, I have a LED strip ws 2812 B 100 meters, a strip of two meters is attached to the wall, total 50 strips are attached, total LED is 6000, which controller will be used for this? That works with audio
Что вы думаете о лентах "flowing water" на чипах ws2811, которые продают на алиэкспрессе? Есть ленты на 120 led/m и на 234 led/m.
Got the sk6812 332/ per meter at 5m being impossible , I tore my car apart installed and now they’re all off and wonky. Looks great here but It uses to much injection for me to even try to fix it. Thinking of redoing with 12v because it’s an insane amount of light for the price practically unusable. Not sure if they have an arrow to follow like the other pair of ws2812 same issue.
I'm in the same boat, I used sk6812 5v on my slingshot. I agree too much power injection is needed. I'm gonna rip it all out and go with 12v. I really want the white channel. I see there's 12v sk6812 a little pricey, but it's probably worth it.
Maybe also take a look at some TM1814
Sk6812 seems to be pretty dim in this example, is that just how it’s configured or does having the extra white led decrease the usual output of the rub leds?
The individual diodes are slightly smaller and a little less reflection area inside the package. But also it wasn't in IP65 which some others where which would spread out the glow a bit more. If you take the power sheet and compare power used that would give slightly less light also (in theory, if both are the same lm/w). So yes, I'd say for pure colors and such sk6812 is slightly less bright.
i need fully adjustable white like philips hue color bulbs and elgato stuido lights
Hi, i love LED strips, been working with them for years in my house now. Unfortunately they need to replaced and im thinking about adressable lightstrips. One question keeps buzzing my mind; when you extend a strip, how does the controller know the adresses of the extended part? (eg: i need 6 meters, buy many 5m strips, and cut one meter to extend a 5M to 6M. How will it react as one large strip?
Every LED strips off one LED worth of data and passes the rest on to the next one, this way they don't really need to be aware of the others and how many. In the controller you just enter the correct amount, done!
Sir, how can I contact you for a project to my truck with led.
What an epic comparison Quindor! I've never seen such a broad and accurate comparion of led strips, well done.
Perhaps another interesting thing to check in one of your future videos: ambilight, and more specifically: 12 volt ws2811 RGB Bright versus 5 volt SK6812 RGBW. That would be interesting because of two competing thoughts: ws2811 has super bright colors while SK6812 has the white subpixel for awesome nuances in color reproduction. I'm really curious how those two unique features would compete to each other for ambilight.
Interesting idea, also compared to APA102 because of how it works differently on protocol level and has less limitations on total amount of LEDs and color mixing and such. I'll try to do more about that in the future too!
Cool, if you need some pointers on the ambilight side of things, you can find me on your discord channel (Pim)
Oh, I remember your setup it was awesome!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video. Super informative. Wondering, with the comments about the SK6812 (relatively) bad CRI, did anyone consider running two strips next to each other for indirect light (e.g. recessed ceiling)? One for effects (either RGB or RGBW) and one for high(er) quality scene light (SK6812 WWA). If the environment allows to run both next to each other, wouldnt that give the best of two worlds?
Sure, but replace that WWA for some quality analog strip, the WWA variant isn't much better in regards to CRI.
Actually... That triggered an interesting thought:
1. SK6812 for effects
2. Analog WCW (or WW/CW combined) with high CRI
Thanks. Will test that out :-)
is there even more advanced white colours than WWA?
Wow, Thank you!
Nice video, TNX.
hey I want to make rgb panel like Nanoleaf can you suggest a good & bright led
Sure I think the 12v ws2811 bright would be ideal for that, because of the layout and diffusion per 3 addressable is no issue and then you get really bright vibrant colors and 12v which makes voltage drop a bit less!
would you recommend the ws2811 bright version to light a room like kitchen or living room or is it the CRI still low?
Oh no, certainly not do that. It's great for colors and such but that's it. Get at least RGBW but even that isn't suited for primary lighting you'll need high CRI analog for that.
@@IntermitTech thank you! I will check your website for high CRI analog led stripes recommendations
On the 96LED per meter, do you have a link for it?
Sure all links are in the article linked in the video description!
Hey, ist there any way of fettig ypur dig UNO without that expensive shipping im from germany and i heard you are from netherlands?
Can led #4 and #7 be cut?
why doesn't some company make strips with the LED's in series?
that seems like it would be easier to drive, current wise.
Constant current analog strips actually do exist, digitally per 3 for 12v and per 6 for 24v kind of does that, but each color LED needs a certain vokgage so in series with changing colors and intensities it becomes very very tricky and basically not possible.
Also ws2815 kind of uses a constant current sort of construction, but that's also what makes it much less efficient (100%red burns of 200% other power basically).
@@IntermitTech thanks for the reply. I guess that makes sense what you are saying about the addressable LED strips being harder to do constant current operation.
I suppose I am most interested in simpler single color at a time LED strips for lighting in my house.
Which one is the brightest strip of all?
If you want really bright and vibrant strip, get the 12v ws2811 96LEDs/m "bright" version from BTF lighting.
@@IntermitTech do you recommend these 96 over 60led/m for permanent lighting on a home exterior? Facing down under eaves
Need help. How can I sync 3 led strip SK6812 (144led/m) with 3 meters long each. Total 9 meters. It is quite challenging. Someone can help?
Hello Sir, how can i contact you for some help?