I wouldn’t recommend it for anything structural. But this is not structural, the fiberglass is not holding anything on it’s only for smooth water flow.
Good stuff, John ... New subscriber and learning a lot from your videos. Appreciate your effort in having such an informative channel. Best of luck on the boat search.
These boats are like commuter cars: they're built to a price and their design life is determined by the market. Here's how it works: Buyer 1 buys a new boat on a marine mortgage, typically 10 years. At the end of this (or before) the factory wants him to buy a new boat. But that requires him being able to sell, in order to release equity. So the factory wants the boat still to be good after 10 years, so Buyer 1 can flog it and buy a new one. Buyer 2 will probably be on finance too, so he needs to show the boat is good for another 10 years, to get his mortgage. That way Buyer 1 gets a good price and the factory sells a new boat. But - and this is a big but - Buyer 2 doesn't buy new. So he is of zero interest to the factory, except as a way to release equity so Buyer 1 can get a new one. So if the boat is a basket case after Buyer 2's mortgage is up, tant pis. The result of this is that these boats have a 1 a design life of 20-25 years and 2 are as cheaply built as possible consistent with that. In turn, what that means today is firstly that any production boat built before 2000 is only worth the part-out value and secondly ownership is likely to be a costly exercise. These are not built to be repaired easily.
How did you decide on the type of glass you used? It looked like mat and cloth. How did you decide on the weight (oz) on the glass? Did you match what was there? Did you rotate the cloth between layups for added strength?
I used west system epoxy and fairing because I already had it and used it for the fiberglass work But I think total boat fairing would be easier to use.
Interesting, what weight was the mat you were using on the keel to hull joint, please, and how many layers did you use? My observation is the thicker the mat, the harder it is to go round bends. And I have to do just this job :) Also do you think that the keel is connected to the hull in other ways (eg internal bolts) than just the fb keel to hull joint. Thanks
I’m using 3 layers of 6oz cloth which is easy to work around the edges. This keel is bolted on and the fiberglass cloth and fairing is just for aesthetics and proper waterflow. None of this work is structural.
Thanks @@finditfixitsailit9322 for the mat weight and confirmation on bolts: I was guessing that there were bolts in there, the fibreglass didnt look structural.
I would take EVERYTHING off the entire lead keel and even a foot up onto the hull, to bare structure. It would be a lot of work but if they were less than optimal with that front loose portion, chances are they were just as irresponsible with the rest of the keel covering. This is the time to do thoroughly since it’s on bunks and available. You don’t want to have to repeat this!
I just noticed that You said....what I would do....NOT. ..What I did.... Just wondering how much of this kind of repair have you darted ur hands n lungs with ? JUST.....wondering....
What a mess. There's too much lead in that keel and it's way too high in the structure. Why not unbolt that keel, melt it down, build or cast a fiberglass or aluminum keel, and use 1/2 or 1/3 of that lead for the very bottom of the keel? That's one heavy boat.
Very helpful! We just denied a boat with MAJOR keel problems.. this video gives us hope! 🙏🏼
Beautiful work❤
Great video, very informative.
Excellent job
I was advised that fairing compound between layers of fiberglass was not recommended.
I wouldn’t recommend it for anything structural. But this is not structural, the fiberglass is not holding anything on it’s only for smooth water flow.
Paldies par informaciju…..
I have another video coming soon
@@finditfixitsailit9322 thanks
Good stuff, John ... New subscriber and learning a lot from your videos. Appreciate your effort in having such an informative channel. Best of luck on the boat search.
Thank you Alfred! Im glad your liking the videos. I’m trying to put more videos out but it’s really hot! Lol
These boats are like commuter cars: they're built to a price and their design life is determined by the market. Here's how it works: Buyer 1 buys a new boat on a marine mortgage, typically 10 years. At the end of this (or before) the factory wants him to buy a new boat. But that requires him being able to sell, in order to release equity. So the factory wants the boat still to be good after 10 years, so Buyer 1 can flog it and buy a new one. Buyer 2 will probably be on finance too, so he needs to show the boat is good for another 10 years, to get his mortgage. That way Buyer 1 gets a good price and the factory sells a new boat. But - and this is a big but - Buyer 2 doesn't buy new. So he is of zero interest to the factory, except as a way to release equity so Buyer 1 can get a new one. So if the boat is a basket case after Buyer 2's mortgage is up, tant pis.
The result of this is that these boats have a 1 a design life of 20-25 years and 2 are as cheaply built as possible consistent with that.
In turn, what that means today is firstly that any production boat built before 2000 is only worth the part-out value and secondly ownership is likely to be a costly exercise. These are not built to be repaired easily.
Looks like the issue was that someone glassed over the gel coat just above the keel/hull joint?
I think it was the factory glass work.
One question! how did you get that sailboat in that narrow bay!
The bay door is 12’ and the boat is only 8, so not to hard
How did you decide on the type of glass you used? It looked like mat and cloth. How did you decide on the weight (oz) on the glass? Did you match what was there? Did you rotate the cloth between layups for added strength?
Also, thanks for the video. I enjoyed it.
Would there be any difference in approach for this type of damage for a boat with an iron ballast showing rust underneath?
I would remove the loose fiberglass and lightly sand the iron area then go back the same way I did. If the iron is sealed it will not rust.
Thanks for the quick reply. My little Tanzer 22 thanks you too.
what kind of barrier cote did you put on?
West systems
what fairing compound do you recomend
I used west system epoxy and fairing because I already had it and used it for the fiberglass work But I think total boat fairing would be easier to use.
@@finditfixitsailit9322 do you have facebook
@@Sailing.Artemis yes. @finditfixitsailit. Or facebook.com/profile.php?id=100004820202751
Interesting, what weight was the mat you were using on the keel to hull joint, please, and how many layers did you use? My observation is the thicker the mat, the harder it is to go round bends. And I have to do just this job :)
Also do you think that the keel is connected to the hull in other ways (eg internal bolts) than just the fb keel to hull joint.
Thanks
I’m using 3 layers of 6oz cloth which is easy to work around the edges. This keel is bolted on and the fiberglass cloth and fairing is just for aesthetics and proper waterflow. None of this work is structural.
Thanks @@finditfixitsailit9322 for the mat weight and confirmation on bolts: I was guessing that there were bolts in there, the fibreglass didnt look structural.
What size are you looking for?
30 to 38 foot
I think I found one in Florida but I’ll have to sail it across the Gulf of Mexico to get it back to Houston
@@finditfixitsailit9322 Before or after you sail it to the Caribbean? Cause i think the Caribbean is closer?
First I’m going to get it back to Texas to fit it out and plan the trip.
@@finditfixitsailit9322 Well, best of luck, I'll be watching :D
I would take EVERYTHING off the entire lead keel and even a foot up onto the hull, to bare structure. It would be a lot of work but if they were less than optimal with that front loose portion, chances are they were just as irresponsible with the rest of the keel covering. This is the time to do thoroughly since it’s on bunks and available. You don’t want to have to repeat this!
I just noticed that You said....what I would do....NOT. ..What I did....
Just wondering how much of this kind of repair have you darted ur hands n lungs with ?
JUST.....wondering....
@@s.simsmamasboy None at all. I am a woodcraftsman, though, and have an eye for thorough structural integrity.
What a mess. There's too much lead in that keel and it's way too high in the structure. Why not unbolt that keel, melt it down, build or cast a fiberglass or aluminum keel, and use 1/2 or 1/3 of that lead for the very bottom of the keel? That's one heavy boat.
I was able to get it fixed back to the intended factory design