Its people like you who are truly appreciated. I recently had my all sensor go out on me, so I got on UA-cam to see what would be the best way to fix the problem. Most of the videos I watched there was mechanics and mechanically inclined people who was showing videos where you had to remove the top cover in order to get to the sensor but then I ran across a gentleman like you, it wasn’t your video. This particular guy explained and actually showed. How to tackle the problem step-by-step I’m so grateful for guys like you.
I really take your comment to heart. I do the best I can and I always look for a shortcut if possible. I am just glad that my experience can help others. Thank you.
One should know that I watched quite a few UA-cam videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender. Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one). So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on. I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!! So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me. Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....
Yes it can be done all you need is patients and a strong will and you will succeed every time! I am glad you figured out that you could use a 27mm deep, I'll have to try that sometime. I am glad you got your Yukon up and going and that you did it yourself.
Nice video! I have a 2012 Yukon SLT (5.3l, 210k miles) with the "low oil pressure" problem. Wasn't generating any codes about the pressure switch but after extended driving (half hour to an hour) the needle would start bouncing low and to zero for a few seconds, then go back up. The engine had plenty of oil and wasn't making any noise that would surely happen if there were no oil pressure. I replaced the switch (just like you did here!) but still had the problem, albeit less frequently. At my next oil change, I used Motor Medic Motor Flush after seeing a few videos on it related to this matter. Since then the oil pressure is noticeably higher (10 lbs or so more than it had been) and it hasn't had the problem since (about 3 months and ~5k miles now). It has full synthetic oil now and I check it regularly - fortunately I never have to add any as it's not burning oil at all. I'll probably do the Motor Flush every time I change it from now on, just for good measure.
Thanks! Did you replace the screen? If you replaced the sensor and the screen you need to verify whether or not that you have actual oil pressure. You need to tee in a gauge and watch the sensor data on the scan tool and compare.
On my 2012 1500 5.3. There is a funny shaped piece of steel bolted to the block behind the drivers side fuel rail. The way that thing is made it really blocks access to the sensor. I don't know why it is there or what purpose it serves other than to block your hand.
Some of the other shops in my area charge an arm and a leg to fix your car. I am stuck back in the 90's and when I fix your car I make sure to put every effort into making sure everything is the best I can make it at a very reasonable rate. Thanks.
I got a new one for mu 04 6.0 and the screen was to tall to be able to put sencer in. So left it out. But now I've got low oil pressure, New cam bearings installed properly. I was very careful with pickup O-ring. Guess I gotta take it back apart. Bummer.
@@kevinwest3689 Sometimes you need to twist the screen as you push it in because of the o-ring also you need to be sure that part of the old screen is not left down in there. I just did a 2006 with the 4.8 and it did not have a screen and was not machined for one.
Try to use a pick from the bottom to release the lock or something similar. Sometimes I have even gone from the top side with a stiff piece you wire to release the lock. Keep trying you will get it.
I understand the screens are problematic and it's best to leave the screen out, as in, do not install it after removing the old one (if there is one to begin with).
I have not heard anything back from my customer, I will ask him the next time I talk to him and will follow up with you but I can only assume it is working as it should or he would have gotten back to me. I would also say that every time I worked on a Chevy pickup with this code it has been the sensor or the screen is plugged and if your screen is plugged you have other problems that cause it to get plugged. One more thing to note that it is way cheaper to throw a sensor in it than for me to spend time diagnosing it. I would rather have the customer drive it and then if it didn't work then do the diag. The main purpose for my video was to show that the sensor can easily be changed without removing the intake.
I replaced the oil psi gauge 3 times on my 5.3l engine. 27 mm socket don't fit because there is a metal plate that is in the way. Must loosen or remove the plate. First time was a gauge in 150,000 miles. Second time was a new gauge failed at less that 50 miles on replaced gauge. Replaced again due to failure of replacement GM gauge.
Its people like you who are truly appreciated. I recently had my all sensor go out on me, so I got on UA-cam to see what would be the best way to fix the problem. Most of the videos I watched there was mechanics and mechanically inclined people who was showing videos where you had to remove the top cover in order to get to the sensor but then I ran across a gentleman like you, it wasn’t your video. This particular guy explained and actually showed. How to tackle the problem step-by-step I’m so grateful for guys like you.
I really take your comment to heart. I do the best I can and I always look for a shortcut if possible. I am just glad that my experience can help others. Thank you.
Book you a good honest man and if I had a major mechanical problem, I pray that I bring my vehicle to a person like you
Thank you.
One should know that I watched quite a few UA-cam videos before starting, but still had to lay towels over the engine, use a stool, and do some of the work left-handed. I was able to remove one end of a plastic tube at the rear of the engine for more clearance. I did not remove a second tube or the fuel line at its connection. I broke off the gray "protector" on the oil sender harness connector with a screwdriver, and with left hand pushing a long screwdriver against the connector tab and right hand on the connector, I was finally able to release the connector from the oil sender. The special 1 1/16" oil sender socket I bought like 25 years ago did not fit over the sender, I used a 27mm deep socket. Then I used a 1/2" wobble extension, about 5" long, and that was not easy to push into the 27mm deep socket, but the socket had to go on first. Then I used a stubby 1/2" drive flex ratchet to unscrew the oil sender.
Of course once that was unthreaded it fell somewhere so that took 15 minutes or more to find & remove. So I went to O'Reilly and bought PS508 oil sender, which actually did fit my special socket (but I still used the 27mm deep one).
So with the new sender (I did not even try to find if the engine had a filter screen, I didn't feel one) purchased, I tied a piece of twine around it it case I dropped that, and screwed that in a few turns with my left hand. Then I put the 27mm deep socket over that, then the wobble extension, then the stubby flex ratchet. 15 minutes later I had that screwed in, and actually in similar orientation as the factory one. So 10 minutes more to remove those tools without dropping them. So 15 minutes later I was able to blindly turn the connector to correct orientation to snap that on.
I re-connected the one plastic pipe I had removed, and started the Yukon: no oil pressure displayed, and check engine light was still on. So I disconnected the battery, touched cables together to erase all codes/clear computer, reconnected the battery, and started it up: all was working - SUCCESS !!!
So even though The Cuss cannot fix everything, I was successful today. Yes, this took me several hours, but since I'd just ordered Mrs. Cusser 4 new tires (as the 5-year-old ones were quite dry-rotted), felt why not save $300 to $500 by doing this myself. Some mechanics apparently remove the entire intake manifold for easy access, but that's labor hours. For me, trouble with the special oil sender socket I had threw me for a loop, but the 27mm deep socket I had did save me.
Realize that 4 different times I packed up stuff and quit, saying the mechanic could try his luck Tuesday, but The Cuss is a persistent little cuss, for sure. Mrs. Cusser is ecstatic, and promised to take care of me tonight....
Yes it can be done all you need is patients and a strong will and you will succeed every time! I am glad you figured out that you could use a 27mm deep, I'll have to try that sometime. I am glad you got your Yukon up and going and that you did it yourself.
So the big question here is, did you get taken care of, like promised?!?
Absolutely !!!
Welcome to our world
@@thecuss6817 nice!
Nice video! I have a 2012 Yukon SLT (5.3l, 210k miles) with the "low oil pressure" problem. Wasn't generating any codes about the pressure switch but after extended driving (half hour to an hour) the needle would start bouncing low and to zero for a few seconds, then go back up. The engine had plenty of oil and wasn't making any noise that would surely happen if there were no oil pressure. I replaced the switch (just like you did here!) but still had the problem, albeit less frequently. At my next oil change, I used Motor Medic Motor Flush after seeing a few videos on it related to this matter. Since then the oil pressure is noticeably higher (10 lbs or so more than it had been) and it hasn't had the problem since (about 3 months and ~5k miles now). It has full synthetic oil now and I check it regularly - fortunately I never have to add any as it's not burning oil at all. I'll probably do the Motor Flush every time I change it from now on, just for good measure.
Thanks! Did you replace the screen? If you replaced the sensor and the screen you need to verify whether or not that you have actual oil pressure. You need to tee in a gauge and watch the sensor data on the scan tool and compare.
On my 2012 1500 5.3. There is a funny shaped piece of steel bolted to the block behind the drivers side fuel rail. The way that thing is made it really blocks access to the sensor. I don't know why it is there or what purpose it serves other than to block your hand.
Were you able to replace your sensor? Sometimes I have to use a wobble extension and come in from a angle.
The one you pulled out is a ACDelco part number
Ok I thought it was. Thanks
That says to me is, there’s a lot of mechanical shops out there that take advantage of the public.
Some of the other shops in my area charge an arm and a leg to fix your car. I am stuck back in the 90's and when I fix your car I make sure to put every effort into making sure everything is the best I can make it at a very reasonable rate. Thanks.
do you have to put the filter back in I've heard of people leaving at all it out ????
You mean the screen? If so, no you don't need to but always will put it back in. Thanks for watching.
I got a new one for mu 04 6.0 and the screen was to tall to be able to put sencer in. So left it out. But now I've got low oil pressure, New cam bearings installed properly. I was very careful with pickup O-ring. Guess I gotta take it back apart. Bummer.
@@kevinwest3689 Sometimes you need to twist the screen as you push it in because of the o-ring also you need to be sure that part of the old screen is not left down in there. I just did a 2006 with the 4.8 and it did not have a screen and was not machined for one.
I can’t get my connector unplugged to save my life. Any tips? The whitish grey clip is completely removed
Try to use a pick from the bottom to release the lock or something similar. Sometimes I have even gone from the top side with a stiff piece you wire to release the lock. Keep trying you will get it.
There are little picks turned at 45 and.90 degrees at the end, Just be gentle.
Yes, my little homemade 90 degree screwdriver works the best. Thanks
I've had such sender go bad on 4 of 5 GMs we've had, so I decided to give aftermarket sender a chance, as the GM ones all went bad.
Yes they seem to go bad quite often. What brand did you use?
I used Standard from O'Reilly store, $40; part PS508
Keep me updated if it ever fails again.
Why not cut that plastic cover/shield? What does it do?
I don't think cutting it or removing it would help much. The sensor is still way down in there.
I understand the screens are problematic and it's best to leave the screen out, as in, do not install it after removing the old one (if there is one to begin with).
I don't know a lot about the internal workings of an LS engines but what does the screen actually do? Thanks
SO DID IT WORK??? show us that it now works,
I have not heard anything back from my customer, I will ask him the next time I talk to him and will follow up with you but I can only assume it is working as it should or he would have gotten back to me. I would also say that every time I worked on a Chevy pickup with this code it has been the sensor or the screen is plugged and if your screen is plugged you have other problems that cause it to get plugged. One more thing to note that it is way cheaper to throw a sensor in it than for me to spend time diagnosing it. I would rather have the customer drive it and then if it didn't work then do the diag. The main purpose for my video was to show that the sensor can easily be changed without removing the intake.
I replaced the oil psi gauge 3 times on my 5.3l engine. 27 mm socket don't fit because there is a metal plate that is in the way. Must loosen or remove the plate. First time was a gauge in 150,000 miles. Second time was a new gauge failed at less that 50 miles on replaced gauge. Replaced again due to failure of replacement GM gauge.
Try a Standard Motor Products sending unit.