Mine wasn't just the o ring the entire flange was wobbling around, you could rock the tube around while it was still bolted, i chenged the whole thing and it fixed the problem
Very good video Boss.. I looked at many videos trying to find out what my problem was. Your video gave me good info & details about what I needed to know & answers. Very informative!! I appreciate this video & will be checking out more of your videos. Thank you 🤙🏼
I second the safety glasses suggestion. I've had dirt fall in my eyes working on stuff and it's hell. You increased the life of this truck quite a bit.
The video quality, lighting and amount of detail you put into this video is excellent. You simplified something that could easily turn into several days worth of work. Well done, and thank you.
I don’t remember the torque specs at the moment. I might have included them in my 416 stroker motor build for the CTSV if you would like to look back in that video.
As a backyard mechanic you are as thorough as any full time mechanic . You,ve included all the little secrets ,like rivets ,pickup tube screen ,o ring etc. Excelent job ,bravo on you .Thanks so much from another longtime backyard mechanic . Recently purchased a 2006 Avalanche with the same mileage ,this,ll help me a lot ,thanks a ton , a full time pro couldn,t have done a better job.
Thank you so much for the kind words and for noticing the attention to detail that I try to put into my content. Congratulations on your recent purchase. I hope that you will check out other videos here on the channel and enjoy them as well.
Thanks for the great video!, the oil will get sludge if a shop gets lazy and doesn't change the oil filter!!, had that problem, did a couple of engine oil flush, and it helped, been changing the oil more frequently, but going to replace the red O ring on the oil pickup tube as well!
Great video. I have a 2001 Silverado 1500 with 227K miles, original engine and transmission. I will be looking at my oil pressure more closely now. Thanks for sharing.
Best video on changing the pickup tube O-ring I've seen...doing it this weekend on our 05 Tahoe. Watched several videos and I think you're the first to prime the oil system (or mention doing so) before starting it up.👍
Thanks Scott! I appreciate your comment very much and I try to give lots of details in all of my videos. I am glad that you were able to find it helpful. Priming the oil pump is an important step so that you don’t have a very very long dry start. Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
Hey Scott, I have an 05 Tahoe and need to do this also. Prior to replacing yours did you experience a knocking noise? If so, did the O-ring replacement solve the knocking issue?
I did not have a knocking noise. If your oil pressure is so low that it is knocking and then you do the oil pickup tube o ring and it restores your oil pressure, then yes it may get rid of the noise.
Excellent video sir, I just completed this job on my 07 Silverado at 205,000 miles. Im pretty religious about oil changes and thankfully my oil pan was pretty clean, but the O Ring was flat.
My trans is out for a rebuild. I'm taking the opportunity to change the rear main seal, barbell, and lift engine a few inches and pulling the oil pan for this o-ring/cleanup. hoping to lift enine and not drop front axle since trans is out:) Excellent video! Thanks. PS Thanks for the hint by a professional below to floor gas pedal upon startup as computer forces it to NOT start..and you can prime the pump!
Man, great video! Very detailed! You should've seen the Lm7 i tore apart that I swapped in my 83 Camaro. The oil wouldn't even come out of the drain plug! I had to poke it around with a screwdriver. Inside the pan there was handfuls of black oil jelly. It was horrible! It runs great, cammed with some other goodies and has almost 60psi cold and about 42-46 hot. Its horrible to see ppl don't ever change their oil at the proper intervals. These are great engines, possibly the best made of all time and if taken care of they will reward you for a long long time! Also, I always use the tall WIX filter as well. On my swapped 83 Camaro & on my 04 Tahoe & the part # is 51522. Cool to see that there's another tall WIX part # that also fits.....you used the 51045 right? Anyways great content!
Dropped the pan per your instructions and replaced the O-ring on the oil pick-up tube. Have great oil pressure again and my lifter ticking is gone! (2006 Silverado, 2 wheel drive} Thanks for the great video!
You did an awesome job. Your was video very helpful and very through! It took the job 4 hours to complete. My oil pressure was from 39# to 79# when it was completed. Thanks a bunch
I've always changed all of my vehicles oil at 3600 miles. A couple of years ago, i found out what happens when someone hasn't changed the oil for 2 years. I helped clean out the oil pan and engine that was just bad with all that sludge. Now for sure I'm going to continue to change my oil every 3600 miles. Once that oil becomes sludge and really thickens the engine is toast. Great info and Awesome, video.
Thanks For the Video! Just Changed the O-ring in my 2007 Silverado 4.8 liter (322000 Mile) Back to 40 PSI on cold start 1500 RPM Running temp 40 PSI / 26psi @ idle 800 rpm. But all lifter ticks and rattles are gone.. Would have changed the engine if I had not saw your video!
Yep. Same on my 02 Tahoe 5.3, 274k mikes. Now 45psi idle and 55 psi, hot, 1500 rpm. Be sure to upgrade the pcv system (replace drivers side valve cover with new version w/better baffling and orifice). Oil consumption now down to~ 3k/qt.....
I always enjoy hearing how much my videos have helped others. Thanks for sharing that and subscribing! Hopefully you enjoy the other videos on the channel. Please share the channels and videos with your friends!
Gonna be doing the same soon. Central Wisconsin I have a 2005 Trailblazer 5.3L with 228k. Still runs butter smooth however when it's freezing and below freezing the oil pressure drops. I've replaced the oil pressure screen and sensor however it drops quick when the oil is cold. Soon as it warms up in that cold it slowly drops if I don't have a rev up to 1k or higher. But when it's 40°F or above it's fine. Being that the fresh oil that is in the truck as I replace my oil every 3k. The pickup tube has to be the issue. The colder it is the harder it is for that oil to go up and if that o ring is broke or in the way obstructing it when the oil is cold that being the problem is the most logical issue since it runs and holds pressure fine when it's above fridge temp outside at idle
You can buy the aftermarket oil pans with the oil filter relocation kit. I did this over a weekend and my pan had sludge all on the inside and full of coolant. Yes i did a full engine rebuild.
Been fighting this tick/tap for a while. Glad I came across this video. This made the job easy. Pretty surprised how one o-ring can make a huge difference. Also went to an AC Delco PF61 oil filter for my 05. Taller than the original. I have better oil pressure and the truck seems to run smoother. Happy truck, happy owner. 300k and still going 👍🏾
I've got the same truck except I have the crew cab. I installed a manual gauge on my truck and I have 25 psi cold. And hot is super low. I'm going to change the o ring and shim the spring slightly for my channel and see how that helps
Thanks for this video! Just decided to replace mine and it was nice knowing exactly what tools were needed so I didn’t have to keep climbing out from under the truck. Also bumped my pressure back up to 45ish.
Great video!! Was a little intimidated by the job, but not now. Question about disconnecting the coil packs. The mechanical action of the engine is the same when the pistons fire as when the don’t, correct? Are you doing this to limit the rpm’s at start up to prime the pump? Do you do this every time you change your oil? Just curious.
If the vehicle fires up and has no oil pressure then it will make many many more rotations with 0 oil pressure than if you prime it with no fire. No I don’t prime after every oil change because I don’t change that o ring every oil change. When you change the o ring, there is the chance that it gets caught, ripped, or doesn’t seat just right so you are not just building oil pressure, you are also verifying the fact that you will actually make oil pressure when you crank it.
Just picked up a really clean 2005 Z71 4x4. Oil pressure isn't terrible by any means (these 5.3L engines will run forever especially if taken care of), but it's a bit low at hot idle. Thanks for all the information and attention to detail in this video! I'll be doing this some time in the near future. Liked and subscribed to the channel!
@whiplashtv2022 yeah for sure! I just got all the parts together to do the o-ring job, plus oil cooler block gasket and oil level sensor + gasket. Going to degrease the entire engine afterwards because I suspect valve cover gaskets are also leaking.
@@whiplashtv2022 Thank you my truck use to have Awesome pressure until 2 years ago It runs like a champ and I always use Synthetic oil I guess with time that little Damn Seal would dry up
Were you loosing any antifreeze from your reservoir? My 2000 Silverado 5.3 was and I found out the heads were cracked letting antifreeze mix with the oil. I kept adding it but never saw any sign of a leak. my oil pressure went down like that because the filter would stop up with sludge. I replaced the heads and pulled the pan and there was enough of that goop in the pan that my truck would only hold 5 quarts to fill it to the upper mark on the dipstick. just curious.
I’m working on a Gen V L83 and suspect the same thing, except it doesn’t have an o-ring, it’s just the metal pickup tube into an aluminum housing. I suppose it’s supposed to be a tight fit but it’s got a couple thou wiggle room to it. I am curious if it’s the cause of my low oil pressure also. If an aging o-ring can cause aeration I am wondering just how little air is necessary to ineffectualize the oil pump ratio producing the target oil pressure.
The newer Gen V trucks run a much thinner oil. They run 0w-20 instead of 5w-30/10w-30. Y’all can call me crazy, but in the Gen V L86 that we had, I ran thicker oil. I am not sure how low of oil pressure you are seeing, but if it was mine, thicker oil would be a consideration of mine. Disclaimer, I in no way will be held responsible for that, and do it at your own risk and research. I had no problems with it though. I have yet to hear about Gen V oil pickup tube Oring issues. Maybe the oil pump is going out or you are seeing some bearing wear causing your oil pressure to go down…just a couple thoughts.
I have an 06 with 412,000 miles. Repair shop wont do it because of the fear of the rear main seal blowing out with all that new pressure. I have been running lately @ 38 psi driving and 20 idleing. Use to be at or near 40 psi all the time. Looks like i will be doing this job myself. Thanks,
Yeah I would say that you having the extra oil pressure is a good thing and if the rear main blows then just do the right thing and replace it. That is strange that they don’t want to do the job.
The best stuff for cleaning those old engines is "LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner" and it really is totally awesome. Soak parts in it for a few hours and u can spray thay old crud off. Or spray it in and scrub and it will come off quick.
Not a bad idea because WOT is setup as the “flood clear” in the tune from stock, but it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle won’t start or try to start up briefly. So it could potentially keep it from firing up and you might be ok, but isn’t a guarantee like cutting the spark altogether.
I just did my 2005 Z71 5.3L Tahoe with 330,000 miles on her, exact same problem but I also replaced my oil pump while I was there, four wheel drive is a much bigger pain and I did not want to do it twice just incase, now I get 45 psi on cold starts and over 55 with a light engine rev. I am hoping for at least another 100,000 from the old girl.
Awesome! Definitely harder on a 4x4 and definitely smart to go ahead and do an oil pump with that kind of mileage. I bet you do get another 100,000 out of her.
I just did this job on 4x4 YukonXL. It’s a nightmare. You’re lucky it’s not a 4x4 like mine. I had to drop the diff to drop my pan. Replaced oil pump as well using a Melling high volume oil pump. Cleaning up the sludge was just as much a nightmare as the job . My pan was full of it as well as my timing cover, and valve covers. I used gasoline and brake cleaner to clean it all. After the job was done I I removed the sludge from the rest of my engine using a quart of diesel fuel in the oil. After I installed everything I ran diesel fuel in engine at idle fir 10 min then changed my oil.
Yeah the 4x4 trucks are definitely harder to do. I am very glad that I was doing it on a 2wd. I am using some Rotella T-6 oil which has very good detergents in it as well as some transmission fluid to help clean things up.
@@whiplashtv2022 was just gonna tell you about the trans fluid it worked wonders on mine, plus I pulled the screen that blocks the sending unit/pressure sensor, a notorious problem with these engines.
@@jelenekoutdoors9023 So far I did a little transmission fluid and ran a little Seafoam for about 500 miles and dumped the oil. The Seafoam seems to have flushed a little more out than the transmission fluid did.
Thank you very much! My work schedule keeps getting moved around due to what is currently going on in the world…so I can’t plan on it yet. I have not ruled it out though. Thanks for watching!
@@whiplashtv2022 yeah I understand about work schedules. I have already registered and reserved my hotel room. I will be out there and hope that you get to make it and see your V. Keep up the great content. 👍
Just did this to my 05 Tahoe. I had around 25psi at idle and 40 max and lifter chatter almost constantly. Now it’s quiet as a mouse and idles at 50psi and up to 80psi under load.
You don't need to disconnect the coil pack harnesses if you don't want the vehicle to start. Just floor the gas pedal while cranking, and the ECM will shut off the injectors. No fuel, no start.
Not a bad idea because WOT is setup as the “flood clear” in the tune, but it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle won’t start or try to start up briefly. So it could potentially keep it from firing up and you might be ok, but isn’t a guarantee like cutting the spark altogether.
Done a lot of these.. never had any try to start when holding gas pedal to floor... gm...ford...chrysler...are same... it will not start or even 'try' to start.
Great video. Lots of gratification seeing that pressure go up. I have an 03 5.3 an thought i had a bad rear seal but I’m guessing the bigger leak is the oil pan. Getting psyched for the job- you have some good tips. One question I got, a while back I snapped one of the long bolts trying to tighten up the pan. 🤦♂️ I’m not planning on extracting if it’s buried. hoping a new gasket will suffice 😬.
Thank you! Getting the old bolt out and using a new bolt would be best if you can make that happen, otherwise I would use black rtv silicone gasket maker in that corner and a little ways in both directions away from it to help it seal up.
Including the filter how many quarts of oil do you think you put in? I did this to my Silverado today and I got 40psi at first but then it dropped back down to 33/35ish when it warmed up. It got above 40 at driving and highway speeds but nowhere near 65 like you said ok your video when you were reving it up
For all the sludge use gasoline and rags. Let the gas soak and it will wipe clean. And before i pulled the pan i used marvel mystery oil in the oil for a few hundread miles.
nice video..i have a question , you said @ 23:29 to disconnect coil pack before start the car..can i know the reason..? also is it important to disconnect it ..
I disconnected it to be sure that the engine would not fire while I primed the oil pump. There are different ways to keep it from firing, but that is the method that I chose.
Hey, I appreciate your help, I couldn't have replaced this without you. I think I screwed something up though, my truck now is telling me to service the 4wd. Any ideas as to what I could have done to the differential when I let it down? Thank you.
@@whiplashtv2022 I just see a connection for a mator that goes to the differential. Idk if that's called an actuator. I did screw up and somehow messed both of my CV axles up to where I couldn't get them back in so I ended up replacing them. I'll look for any more connector. Thank you so much for your help!
@@whiplashtv2022 being under stress was my 2nd though. I probably shouldn't have done this job in 106 degree weather 😰 I'll let you know when I figure it out.
I got a question hopefully you see this. Got a 2011 Silverado 5.3 with the DOD. I replaced timing chain and oil pump year or so ago. And now out of no where when I start the engine it goes to roughly 20psi, then starts to go down till 0 and the display says shut engine off low oil pressure. You can turn off and start right back up and it goes back to 20 then slowly goes down. The truck never knocks at all making me think that it does in fact have oil pressure. Would this be the oil pressure sensor/switch? The screen under it? Or is this a bigger problem
Like he said replace oil pressure sending unit and the screen you must replace the screen or else it will not fix anything trust me I have multiple 5.3's and 3 6.2 denalis very common problem
Thanks! Although it may seem like the oil pump was right there to be changed out, it wasn’t. The whole front of the engine has to come apart to access the oil pump and change it out. If I was going to tear the front end of the motor apart to change out the oil pump, then I would’ve been shoving in a new cam and many other parts. A cam swap was going to be a future upgrade, but the truck ended up being bought off of me by a friend that wanted it badly!
@@whiplashtv2022 that makes sense, I'm not familiar with that engine, I guess - the earlier generation the oil pump is right there and easy to change (well, AFTER you get the oil pan off...). Great video and channel! Thank you!
Yes there will be a little fuel that will still spray. It is no big deal as shown in the video. Pulling the fuel pump fuel won’t keep it from firing due to residual fuel in the fuel rail and line. It won’t run for long obviously but it will try to run for a brief time off of the residual fuel.
And something to avoid is overheating it because it can cause the o-ring to fail and along with other gaskets like in my case bunch of gaskets leaking now and o-ring not making a good seal now have same issue low oil pressure 23-26psi all because I didn’t see it running hot in timely manner , had the plastic rat crack and caused a bunch of problems so replaced with aluminum rat with e-fans
I changed mine, while replacing leaking pan gasket. at 272k, the inside looked really good for mileage. Cleaned every thing including pickup tube and screen. Put every thing back together, waited 24 hrs for gasket sealer as per recommendations. Filled with oil . unplugged coils and no oil pressure at all. BRIEFLY started to a noisy engine which confirmed no oil pressure. Any ideas other than pulling it apart to confirm o-ring wasn't damaged ? I am an autobody tech , with mechanical training. I followed GM service procedures and did not use screw to force the tube in ect. I am surprised and confused. Could the oil pump lose enough oil in those 24 hrs to hinder pump from priming?
It should get prime back and show 3-5 psi on a scan tool while turning it over with coils unplugged. Since it had prime and some oil pressure before, I would be pulling it back apart and inspecting the oil pickup and o ring just to be sure that the o ring isn’t damaged or crooked.
Nice video, I just swapped my camshaft and a lifter and now at idle it fluctuates from 20 to 40, could it be the o ring? It got moved around during the install. Any help appreciated
If “moved around” means that the oil pickup tube was removed from the oil pump and then reinstalled and the o ring was not replaced or the new one got pinched then yes it can cause issues.
I just bought a 2001 chevy tahoe 5.3 rwd and oh man i like the truck but it's been giving me a bunch of codes B2722, C0265 and P0332. The first two goes away by it self sometimes I erased the codes. The 3rd one is new. Is it worth replacing the body control module and EBCM?
P0332 is saying that the Knock Sensor 2 Bank 2 is sending a low reading to the pcm. The B2722 is set when the when the signal circuit of the Tow/Haul switch is shorted to ground for approximately 3 minutes. For the C0265 code, I would check the EBCM Ground.
The LQ4 and the 5.3 engine oil pans, pick up tube, and oil pump will be similar. The oring that you need for yours may be a different part number so look it up for your motor.
I only had jack stands and a jack for mine. 4wd definitely sucks compared to doing this job on a 2wd. Your idle rpm should be around 525rpm if you have a stock tune.
Hey did this solve ur issue it’s been a year since u did this. I believe I have same issue I replace few things n the end of the stick I replaced screen n sensor n o ring is broke
5⭐, amigo,,,My problem is with the oil pressure marking in the gauge when i start it, the gauge needdle don't move most of the time untill i press gas pedal it moves up but needdle keeps up n down, so i deside not move it, untill gett an honest diagnóstic...what can You do to guide me to know what to do with My old backupfríend in the outthere Chevy taho 2005, 4.8L, and Big thanks for the help
The issue could be what I covered in this video, or it could be an issue with the oil pressure sending unit. You can hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and try checking it that way before you tear into it.
I drove it few days like that, changing to neutral n acelerating when i stop or when i SEE the gauge needdle goes down, after few days decide take it to somebody but i feel that this guy is not been honest. So, decide not move it, n take My poor friend back Home.😟
Crazy how that little o-ring causes all these problems. Thanks for the idea to check it out! Back up to 40 lbs at idle.
Yes, a little o ring could cast catastrophic failure of your engine. It is pretty crazy. I’m happy to hear that you have good oil pressure now.
Mine wasn't just the o ring the entire flange was wobbling around, you could rock the tube around while it was still bolted, i chenged the whole thing and it fixed the problem
@dawsondetrana5496 wow, that’s crazy!
It Just happened to me 😢😢😢 It caused my pump to fail our of the Blue????😢😢
@ruwithlee1970 that sucks
One of the BEST videos out there!! Very professionally done!👍👍Need to make more videos on other situations 🙂
Thank you!
Hands down the BEST tutorial/ "how to" on the o ring replacement!!
Thank you!
Very good video Boss.. I looked at many videos trying to find out what my problem was. Your video gave me good info & details about what I needed to know & answers. Very informative!! I appreciate this video & will be checking out more of your videos. Thank you 🤙🏼
Thanks for the kind words and for supporting the channel!
I second the safety glasses suggestion. I've had dirt fall in my eyes working on stuff and it's hell. You increased the life of this truck quite a bit.
Dirt falling all the time!
The video quality, lighting and amount of detail you put into this video is excellent. You simplified something that could easily turn into several days worth of work. Well done, and thank you.
Thanks for noticing and for the incredibly nice comment!
I agree!! Thank you sir!! It was fun too, thanks again!!
You’re welcome
What was the torque specs for everything?
I don’t remember the torque specs at the moment. I might have included them in my 416 stroker motor build for the CTSV if you would like to look back in that video.
Great video ! Awesomely explained and very clear viewings. You explained every detail very well. One of the best mechanical videos I've seen. Thanks
Thanks a lot
Thanks bud ! Best video I found on this, will be doing this on my truck this weekend ! 👍🏽
You’re welcome! Thanks for the kind comment. Good luck on your project this weekend! Hopefully it will go smoothly for you.
As a backyard mechanic you are as thorough as any full time mechanic . You,ve included all the little secrets ,like rivets ,pickup tube screen ,o ring etc. Excelent job ,bravo on you .Thanks so much from another longtime backyard mechanic . Recently purchased a 2006 Avalanche with the same mileage ,this,ll help me a lot ,thanks a ton , a full time pro couldn,t have done a better job.
Thank you so much for the kind words and for noticing the attention to detail that I try to put into my content. Congratulations on your recent purchase. I hope that you will check out other videos here on the channel and enjoy them as well.
You my friend did a great video. You really were thorough with every step and the detail of the process in your video was 2nd to none. Kudos!
Thank you very much! I hope that you enjoy the other videos on the channel as well!
Thanks for the great video!, the oil will get sludge if a shop gets lazy and doesn't change the oil filter!!, had that problem, did a couple of engine oil flush, and it helped, been changing the oil more frequently, but going to replace the red O ring on the oil pickup tube as well!
Thanks and that is a great idea to do the oil pickup tube o ring as well.
Great video. I have a 2001 Silverado 1500 with 227K miles, original engine and transmission. I will be looking at my oil pressure more closely now. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, you’re welcome.
You put a lot of work into explaining and editing. You’re awesome buddy
Yes I did. Thanks for noticing and watching!
I woud of just started the truck , im glad you did that oil prime ima do mine tomorrow just like that. Im changing the oring too
I got a 05 Silverado single cab short bed that's black, love the truck definitely subscribed! Keep it up
Thank you very much! Appreciate the sub!
Best video on changing the pickup tube O-ring I've seen...doing it this weekend on our 05 Tahoe. Watched several videos and I think you're the first to prime the oil system (or mention doing so) before starting it up.👍
Thanks Scott! I appreciate your comment very much and I try to give lots of details in all of my videos. I am glad that you were able to find it helpful. Priming the oil pump is an important step so that you don’t have a very very long dry start. Let me know if you have any questions along the way.
Hey Scott, I have an 05 Tahoe and need to do this also. Prior to replacing yours did you experience a knocking noise? If so, did the O-ring replacement solve the knocking issue?
I did not have a knocking noise. If your oil pressure is so low that it is knocking and then you do the oil pickup tube o ring and it restores your oil pressure, then yes it may get rid of the noise.
Awesome video. Great step by step directions.
Thank you
Excellent video sir, I just completed this job on my 07 Silverado at 205,000 miles. Im pretty religious about oil changes and thankfully my oil pan was pretty clean, but the O Ring was flat.
Thank you
Wow great video, I like how you mentioned even the smallest details, I definitely feel more comfortable doing it on my truck, thank you
Thank you, happy to hear that.
Just got an 01 6.0L, this is the first thing I’m doing to it as it’s going to be a highway truck. Take care of them and they’ll take care of you!
100% right!
My trans is out for a rebuild. I'm taking the opportunity to change the rear main seal, barbell, and lift engine a few inches and pulling the oil pan for this o-ring/cleanup. hoping to lift enine and not drop front axle since trans is out:) Excellent video! Thanks. PS Thanks for the hint by a professional below to floor gas pedal upon startup as computer forces it to NOT start..and you can prime the pump!
Good luck with your job.
Man, great video! Very detailed! You should've seen the Lm7 i tore apart that I swapped in my 83 Camaro. The oil wouldn't even come out of the drain plug! I had to poke it around with a screwdriver. Inside the pan there was handfuls of black oil jelly. It was horrible! It runs great, cammed with some other goodies and has almost 60psi cold and about 42-46 hot. Its horrible to see ppl don't ever change their oil at the proper intervals. These are great engines, possibly the best made of all time and if taken care of they will reward you for a long long time! Also, I always use the tall WIX filter as well. On my swapped 83 Camaro & on my 04 Tahoe & the part # is 51522. Cool to see that there's another tall WIX part # that also fits.....you used the 51045 right? Anyways great content!
Thanks! Yeah it is crazy how some don’t change their oil and take care of their engines. Very sad
Dropped the pan per your instructions and replaced the O-ring on the oil pick-up tube. Have great oil pressure again and my lifter ticking is gone! (2006 Silverado, 2 wheel drive} Thanks for the great video!
You’re very welcome! Happy to hear about your great outcome.
You did an awesome job. Your was video very helpful and very through! It took the job 4 hours to complete. My oil pressure was from 39# to 79# when it was completed. Thanks a bunch
Thanks! I’m glad that it turned out good for you and that the video was helpful!
I've always changed all of my vehicles oil at 3600 miles. A couple of years ago, i found out what happens when someone hasn't changed the oil for 2 years. I helped clean out the oil pan and engine that was just bad with all that sludge. Now for sure I'm going to continue to change my oil every 3600 miles. Once that oil becomes sludge and really thickens the engine is toast. Great info and Awesome, video.
Thank you!
Great video. that pick-up tube screen was a job for Brake-Kleen if I ever saw one.
Thanks! Yeah it took a LOT of cleanup on this job!
Very good video my brother! I did this to my 2001and it gave me another 150,000 miles before tranny went out
Thank you!
Thanks For the Video! Just Changed the O-ring in my 2007 Silverado 4.8 liter (322000 Mile) Back to 40 PSI on cold start 1500 RPM Running temp 40 PSI / 26psi @ idle 800 rpm. But all lifter ticks and rattles are gone.. Would have changed the engine if I had not saw your video!
You’re welcome! I’m glad that it has extended the life of your engine.
Video quality and your discussion were excellent:-)
Thanks!
Yep. Same on my 02 Tahoe 5.3, 274k mikes. Now 45psi idle and 55 psi, hot, 1500 rpm. Be sure to upgrade the pcv system (replace drivers side valve cover with new version w/better baffling and orifice). Oil consumption now down to~ 3k/qt.....
Happy to hear it turned out well. Yes pcv fix is helpful as you mentioned.
Brother you don't know how much you help me thank you so much I just subscribed
I always enjoy hearing how much my videos have helped others. Thanks for sharing that and subscribing! Hopefully you enjoy the other videos on the channel. Please share the channels and videos with your friends!
Hey Man, Nice Job. Keep up the great videos, Just subscribed.
Thank you very much! I really appreciate that.
Gonna be doing the same soon. Central Wisconsin I have a 2005 Trailblazer 5.3L with 228k. Still runs butter smooth however when it's freezing and below freezing the oil pressure drops. I've replaced the oil pressure screen and sensor however it drops quick when the oil is cold. Soon as it warms up in that cold it slowly drops if I don't have a rev up to 1k or higher. But when it's 40°F or above it's fine. Being that the fresh oil that is in the truck as I replace my oil every 3k. The pickup tube has to be the issue. The colder it is the harder it is for that oil to go up and if that o ring is broke or in the way obstructing it when the oil is cold that being the problem is the most logical issue since it runs and holds pressure fine when it's above fridge temp outside at idle
Yes, that could be your issue. The part is cheap so it is definitely worth trying.
Big dawg thkz for tha knowledge 💯 well explained and video viewing of wha 👌🏾 waz done ✔️ you learn sumtin new evryday 👍🏾🤟🏾
You’re welcome
Wow! Looks like a well seasoned skillet! Must change oil!
For sure 😂😂😂
best instructional ,video, lighting. speed and detail was awsome. best gm video out there.
Thank you very much!
You can buy the aftermarket oil pans with the oil filter relocation kit. I did this over a weekend and my pan had sludge all on the inside and full of coolant. Yes i did a full engine rebuild.
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Awesome video! Great info! Thank you!
Thanks, you’re welcome!
Really good video. Very helpful. Thanks.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching!
Just replaced the one on my 05 Z71 worked like a charm. Idles at 40psi and runs around 45-50
Very nice! It makes a huge difference and is definitely worth doing. Job well done sir.
Couldn’t agree more with all the comments, thanks!
You’re welcome
Been fighting this tick/tap for a while. Glad I came across this video. This made the job easy. Pretty surprised how one o-ring can make a huge difference. Also went to an AC Delco PF61 oil filter for my 05. Taller than the original. I have better oil pressure and the truck seems to run smoother. Happy truck, happy owner. 300k and still going 👍🏾
I’m glad the video was helpful and that you got your truck running better.
That was very Helpful...
I’m glad the video was helpful!
I've got the same truck except I have the crew cab. I installed a manual gauge on my truck and I have 25 psi cold. And hot is super low. I'm going to change the o ring and shim the spring slightly for my channel and see how that helps
Sounds like a great place to start.
Awesome video 👍
Thanks
Thanks for this video! Just decided to replace mine and it was nice knowing exactly what tools were needed so I didn’t have to keep climbing out from under the truck. Also bumped my pressure back up to 45ish.
You’re welcome! Thanks for watching.
Great video!! Was a little intimidated by the job, but not now. Question about disconnecting the coil packs. The mechanical action of the engine is the same when the pistons fire as when the don’t, correct? Are you doing this to limit the rpm’s at start up to prime the pump? Do you do this every time you change your oil? Just curious.
If the vehicle fires up and has no oil pressure then it will make many many more rotations with 0 oil pressure than if you prime it with no fire. No I don’t prime after every oil change because I don’t change that o ring every oil change. When you change the o ring, there is the chance that it gets caught, ripped, or doesn’t seat just right so you are not just building oil pressure, you are also verifying the fact that you will actually make oil pressure when you crank it.
Great video!
Thanks!
Just picked up a really clean 2005 Z71 4x4. Oil pressure isn't terrible by any means (these 5.3L engines will run forever especially if taken care of), but it's a bit low at hot idle. Thanks for all the information and attention to detail in this video! I'll be doing this some time in the near future. Liked and subscribed to the channel!
You’re very welcome. Thanks for watching, subscribing, liking, and commenting!
How low?
@@TheSavage3.6 20-25 at fully warmed idle. Goes up to 40-45 when I get on it
@@whodatSean that isn’t too terrible but it could probably be better.
@whiplashtv2022 yeah for sure! I just got all the parts together to do the o-ring job, plus oil cooler block gasket and oil level sensor + gasket. Going to degrease the entire engine afterwards because I suspect valve cover gaskets are also leaking.
Awesome now I know what I need to do for my 2000 Silverado Z71
Look up the part number for your year model o-ring. That will let you kbow which one you need.
@@whiplashtv2022 Thank you my truck use to have Awesome pressure until 2 years ago It runs like a champ and I always use Synthetic oil I guess with time that little Damn Seal would dry up
@@7105chuy yes, over time the seal can crack, brittle, and not seal as good.
Great video
Thank you!
That was a proper oil prime you did there.
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Nice work
Thanks
Great work
Thanks
Thanks 🙏
You’re welcome
Were you loosing any antifreeze from your reservoir? My 2000 Silverado 5.3 was and I found out the heads were cracked letting antifreeze mix with the oil. I kept adding it but never saw any sign of a leak. my oil pressure went down like that because the filter would stop up with sludge. I replaced the heads and pulled the pan and there was enough of that goop in the pan that my truck would only hold 5 quarts to fill it to the upper mark on the dipstick. just curious.
No I have not had any antifreeze missing.
ty for the video!
You’re welcome
I’m working on a Gen V L83 and suspect the same thing, except it doesn’t have an o-ring, it’s just the metal pickup tube into an aluminum housing. I suppose it’s supposed to be a tight fit but it’s got a couple thou wiggle room to it. I am curious if it’s the cause of my low oil pressure also. If an aging o-ring can cause aeration I am wondering just how little air is necessary to ineffectualize the oil pump ratio producing the target oil pressure.
The newer Gen V trucks run a much thinner oil. They run 0w-20 instead of 5w-30/10w-30. Y’all can call me crazy, but in the Gen V L86 that we had, I ran thicker oil. I am not sure how low of oil pressure you are seeing, but if it was mine, thicker oil would be a consideration of mine. Disclaimer, I in no way will be held responsible for that, and do it at your own risk and research. I had no problems with it though. I have yet to hear about Gen V oil pickup tube Oring issues. Maybe the oil pump is going out or you are seeing some bearing wear causing your oil pressure to go down…just a couple thoughts.
I have an 06 with 412,000 miles. Repair shop wont do it because of the fear of the rear main seal blowing out with all that new pressure. I have been running lately @ 38 psi driving and 20 idleing.
Use to be at or near 40 psi all the time.
Looks like i will be doing this job myself.
Thanks,
Yeah I would say that you having the extra oil pressure is a good thing and if the rear main blows then just do the right thing and replace it. That is strange that they don’t want to do the job.
I just fixed my 5.3 on monday morning just fell off tube oil pressure back to normal was not a bad job .
I am happy to hear that it went well for you! Hopefully the video helped out.
The best stuff for cleaning those old engines is "LA's Totally Awesome Cleaner" and it really is totally awesome. Soak parts in it for a few hours and u can spray thay old crud off. Or spray it in and scrub and it will come off quick.
Interesting, I’ll have to take a look at that stuff.
Very informative!
Our has 221 and doing same thing
Will fix it this next summer so I parked it and start it every 3 weeks
Good
Next time when you go to prime just hold the gas pedal at WOT it’ll kill the fuel if I’m not mistaken to help prime with out unplugging anything.
Not a bad idea because WOT is setup as the “flood clear” in the tune from stock, but it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle won’t start or try to start up briefly. So it could potentially keep it from firing up and you might be ok, but isn’t a guarantee like cutting the spark altogether.
I just did my 2005 Z71 5.3L Tahoe with 330,000 miles on her, exact same problem but I also replaced my oil pump while I was there, four wheel drive is a much bigger pain and I did not want to do it twice just incase, now I get 45 psi on cold starts and over 55 with a light engine rev. I am hoping for at least another 100,000 from the old girl.
Awesome! Definitely harder on a 4x4 and definitely smart to go ahead and do an oil pump with that kind of mileage. I bet you do get another 100,000 out of her.
Did you use any type of silicone on the oil pan gasket when you went to mount back the oil pan
Yes, I used some black rtv silicone in the corners on both ends.
Nice video I'm about to do it to my 07 sierra classic just one question wouldn't it be able to be using water to clean those parts ?
I did use hot soapy water to clean some parts in the video.
I just did this job on 4x4 YukonXL. It’s a nightmare. You’re lucky it’s not a 4x4 like mine. I had to drop the diff to drop my pan. Replaced oil pump as well using a Melling high volume oil pump. Cleaning up the sludge was just as much a nightmare as the job . My pan was full of it as well as my timing cover, and valve covers. I used gasoline and brake cleaner to clean it all. After the job was done I
I removed the sludge from the rest of my engine using a quart of diesel fuel in the oil. After I installed everything I ran diesel fuel in engine at idle fir 10 min then changed my oil.
Think it would be hard on an 05 Chevy ? Cold start it has zero pressure but then quickly comes up to 40
Yeah the 4x4 trucks are definitely harder to do. I am very glad that I was doing it on a 2wd. I am using some Rotella T-6 oil which has very good detergents in it as well as some transmission fluid to help clean things up.
It is not hard unless it is a 4x4. How long does it read 0 psi for???
@@whiplashtv2022 was just gonna tell you about the trans fluid it worked wonders on mine, plus I pulled the screen that blocks the sending unit/pressure sensor, a notorious problem with these engines.
@@jelenekoutdoors9023 So far I did a little transmission fluid and ran a little Seafoam for about 500 miles and dumped the oil. The Seafoam seems to have flushed a little more out than the transmission fluid did.
Good job and love watching your videos.
Are you going to the V Club Invitational at Ennis on the 26th of Feb?
Thank you very much! My work schedule keeps getting moved around due to what is currently going on in the world…so I can’t plan on it yet. I have not ruled it out though. Thanks for watching!
@@whiplashtv2022 yeah I understand about work schedules. I have already registered and reserved my hotel room. I will be out there and hope that you get to make it and see your V. Keep up the great content. 👍
@@cliff10682001 I would love to meet some of those that are watching my content. I will see what I can do. Good luck to you at the event.
@@whiplashtv2022 thank you sir.
thanks
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thanks
You’re welcome
Just did this to my 05 Tahoe. I had around 25psi at idle and 40 max and lifter chatter almost constantly. Now it’s quiet as a mouse and idles at 50psi and up to 80psi under load.
Awesome!!!
You don't need to disconnect the coil pack harnesses if you don't want the vehicle to start. Just floor the gas pedal while cranking, and the ECM will shut off the injectors. No fuel, no start.
Not a bad idea because WOT is setup as the “flood clear” in the tune, but it doesn’t guarantee that the vehicle won’t start or try to start up briefly. So it could potentially keep it from firing up and you might be ok, but isn’t a guarantee like cutting the spark altogether.
Done a lot of these.. never had any try to start when holding gas pedal to floor...
gm...ford...chrysler...are same... it will not start or even 'try' to start.
@user-cp5vl9ot9x 👍🏻
Great video. Lots of gratification seeing that pressure go up. I have an 03 5.3 an thought i had a bad rear seal but I’m guessing the bigger leak is the oil pan. Getting psyched for the job- you have some good tips. One question I got, a while back I snapped one of the long bolts trying to tighten up the pan. 🤦♂️ I’m not planning on extracting if it’s buried. hoping a new gasket will suffice 😬.
Thank you! Getting the old bolt out and using a new bolt would be best if you can make that happen, otherwise I would use black rtv silicone gasket maker in that corner and a little ways in both directions away from it to help it seal up.
Including the filter how many quarts of oil do you think you put in? I did this to my Silverado today and I got 40psi at first but then it dropped back down to 33/35ish when it warmed up. It got above 40 at driving and highway speeds but nowhere near 65 like you said ok your video when you were reving it up
6 quarts
i’d always like to replace the oil pump with a 10296 aswell
That is what I am running on my CTS-V and it has done well. When/If I cam this truck, then I would definitely replace the oil pump.
For all the sludge use gasoline and rags. Let the gas soak and it will wipe clean. And before i pulled the pan i used marvel mystery oil in the oil for a few hundread miles.
Gasoline is a good idea
Worked for me - back to 40lbs at 415000
Awesome!
Did the truck make a ticking sound prior to and after changing out the the Big Fat Oring on the pick up tube?
No it didn’t.
nice video..i have a question , you said @ 23:29 to disconnect coil pack before start the car..can i know the reason..? also is it important to disconnect it ..
I disconnected it to be sure that the engine would not fire while I primed the oil pump. There are different ways to keep it from firing, but that is the method that I chose.
I get a ticking sound @ cold start,then goes away about 30 seconds later. my oil pressure is at 40psi any aideas,thanks.
You might have a lifter getting partially stuck or taking a little while to get pumped up. Just some ideas.
Hey, I appreciate your help, I couldn't have replaced this without you.
I think I screwed something up though, my truck now is telling me to service the 4wd. Any ideas as to what I could have done to the differential when I let it down?
Thank you.
You’re welcome! Did you have to disconnect an electrical hookup for the 4wd actuator?
@@whiplashtv2022 I just see a connection for a mator that goes to the differential. Idk if that's called an actuator. I did screw up and somehow messed both of my CV axles up to where I couldn't get them back in so I ended up replacing them. I'll look for any more connector.
Thank you so much for your help!
@@chrislmcnair yeah it sounds like something is unplugged, or maybe some wires were put under stress and pulled on.
@@whiplashtv2022 being under stress was my 2nd though. I probably shouldn't have done this job in 106 degree weather 😰
I'll let you know when I figure it out.
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I got a question hopefully you see this. Got a 2011 Silverado 5.3 with the DOD. I replaced timing chain and oil pump year or so ago. And now out of no where when I start the engine it goes to roughly 20psi, then starts to go down till 0 and the display says shut engine off low oil pressure. You can turn off and start right back up and it goes back to 20 then slowly goes down. The truck never knocks at all making me think that it does in fact have oil pressure. Would this be the oil pressure sensor/switch? The screen under it? Or is this a bigger problem
I would check the oil pressure sensor and screen as well first.
Like he said replace oil pressure sending unit and the screen you must replace the screen or else it will not fix anything trust me I have multiple 5.3's and 3 6.2 denalis very common problem
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Great video! I have to ask, you had the oil pump right in your mitts, why didn't you change it out?
Thanks! Although it may seem like the oil pump was right there to be changed out, it wasn’t. The whole front of the engine has to come apart to access the oil pump and change it out. If I was going to tear the front end of the motor apart to change out the oil pump, then I would’ve been shoving in a new cam and many other parts. A cam swap was going to be a future upgrade, but the truck ended up being bought off of me by a friend that wanted it badly!
@@whiplashtv2022 that makes sense, I'm not familiar with that engine, I guess - the earlier generation the oil pump is right there and easy to change (well, AFTER you get the oil pan off...). Great video and channel! Thank you!
@@chuntzinger677 Thank you
Wont disconnecting the spark allow fuel to spray still? Wouldnt just pulling the fuse to the fuel pump work?
Yes there will be a little fuel that will still spray. It is no big deal as shown in the video. Pulling the fuel pump fuel won’t keep it from firing due to residual fuel in the fuel rail and line. It won’t run for long obviously but it will try to run for a brief time off of the residual fuel.
If you are in there later I'd also shim the oil pump bypass spring with a .100 shim
The plan was to cam it and then do a brand new oil pump. But, that wouldn’t have been a bad idea.
And something to avoid is overheating it because it can cause the o-ring to fail and along with other gaskets like in my case bunch of gaskets leaking now and o-ring not making a good seal now have same issue low oil pressure 23-26psi all because I didn’t see it running hot in timely manner , had the plastic rat crack and caused a bunch of problems so replaced with aluminum rat with e-fans
That is true. Overheating will definitely cause several issues.
I changed mine, while replacing leaking pan gasket. at 272k, the inside looked really good for mileage. Cleaned every thing including pickup tube and screen. Put every thing back together, waited 24 hrs for gasket sealer as per recommendations. Filled with oil . unplugged coils and no oil pressure at all. BRIEFLY started to a noisy engine which confirmed no oil pressure. Any ideas other than pulling it apart to confirm o-ring wasn't damaged ? I am an autobody tech , with mechanical training. I followed GM service procedures and did not use screw to force the tube in ect. I am surprised and confused. Could the oil pump lose enough oil in those 24 hrs to hinder pump from priming?
It should get prime back and show 3-5 psi on a scan tool while turning it over with coils unplugged. Since it had prime and some oil pressure before, I would be pulling it back apart and inspecting the oil pickup and o ring just to be sure that the o ring isn’t damaged or crooked.
Do you think doing the oring could quiet down noisey lifters?
Yes it could if low oil pressure and flow is making them noisy.
Nice video, I just swapped my camshaft and a lifter and now at idle it fluctuates from 20 to 40, could it be the o ring? It got moved around during the install. Any help appreciated
If “moved around” means that the oil pickup tube was removed from the oil pump and then reinstalled and the o ring was not replaced or the new one got pinched then yes it can cause issues.
I just bought a 2001 chevy tahoe 5.3 rwd and oh man i like the truck but it's been giving me a bunch of codes B2722, C0265 and P0332. The first two goes away by it self sometimes I erased the codes. The 3rd one is new. Is it worth replacing the body control module and EBCM?
P0332 is saying that the Knock Sensor 2 Bank 2 is sending a low reading to the pcm.
The B2722 is set when the when the signal circuit of the Tow/Haul switch is shorted to ground for approximately 3 minutes.
For the C0265 code, I would check the EBCM Ground.
@@whiplashtv2022 thanks i will try check the ground wires 👍
@@lanzonests you’re welcome
are these the same as a lq4 or any differences in procedure
The LQ4 and the 5.3 engine oil pans, pick up tube, and oil pump will be similar. The oring that you need for yours may be a different part number so look it up for your motor.
I got a 4WD and really want to do this but no lifts only ramps and Jack also my idle rpm is under 1k lol what would cause that ?
I only had jack stands and a jack for mine. 4wd definitely sucks compared to doing this job on a 2wd. Your idle rpm should be around 525rpm if you have a stock tune.
Hey did this solve ur issue it’s been a year since u did this.
I believe I have same issue I replace few things n the end of the stick I replaced screen n sensor n o ring is broke
Yes, the improvement that I showed in the video has continued through the year.
Don't have to pull the pan off. Just the timing cover and get to it there. Done it on my 03 zo6
On a truck, you have to pull the pan.
Mines on cold start is at 50 once it warms drops to 24 can it be the o ring aswell?
Possibly, but that sounds somewhat normal to be honest for most. It might improve with a new o ring.
5⭐, amigo,,,My problem is with the oil pressure marking in the gauge when i start it, the gauge needdle don't move most of the time untill i press gas pedal it moves up but needdle keeps up n down, so i deside not move it, untill gett an honest diagnóstic...what can You do to guide me to know what to do with My old backupfríend in the outthere Chevy taho 2005, 4.8L, and Big thanks for the help
The issue could be what I covered in this video, or it could be an issue with the oil pressure sending unit. You can hook up a manual oil pressure gauge and try checking it that way before you tear into it.
I drove it few days like that, changing to neutral n acelerating when i stop or when i SEE the gauge needdle goes down, after few days decide take it to somebody but i feel that this guy is not been honest. So, decide not move it, n take My poor friend back Home.😟
@@lorenzoguevara837 sorry to hear that
Ok, i Will do that,,,let You know after that check, thanks a Lot👍
@@lorenzoguevara837 you’re welcome
What's the difference of dry start from oil pan off vs oil change?
The o ring change
Have you had any problems with head cracking losing antifreeze
No, not at all
did I miss something, did you not install the aftermarket second bolt holding the pickup tube on?
The factory only has 1 bolt holding the pick up tube. That is all that is needed.
super cheap and easy to install the second bolt while you have it apart
@@whiplashtv2022