Thanks for a great video. I came across some sticks that were going to be thrown away from a cabinet shop and I’ve made 30 cutting boards. I have a 10 inch planer and a lot of glue. So far they’ve came out looking very nice, there are a mix of black, walnut, cherry maple oak, and even some purple heart.this video has given me the information I need to complete the transformation from sticks to beautiful cutting boards. Thanks again. You do nice work.
❤I put tape on the face of both ends of board and mark width of groove on the tape. I mark left and right edges of the bit on the router insert. Then I make the cut starting and stopping when the marks align with bit edges. No measuring and no stop blocks needed. I also have the half finder jig to align bit center to fence distance. This method is simple especially when doing multiple boards that vary in width.
Thanks Ken - do you cut the full depth in on pass? I usually take 3-4 passes so I wouldn't rely on myself hitting the same stopping point each time. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I’m currently in the process of trying out your method for routing finger groove handles on the sides of my board. What size and type did you use (specifically the one pictured)?
@@tomcarpenter1153 Sure - that works fine. The only difference is the flat bottom if you flip the board over and cut both sides to ensure it's centered.
Hi Jack - I cut them in the vertical position (6:38) since the bit is facing up. You can get a ball bit (amzn.to/3ULJvcq) to cut horizontal, but then your depth is limited to the width of your bit.
I find keeping the board vertical and not tilting it towards you is the challenge. I’ve wondered if two sided taping a right angled triangle(s) to the board would help keeping it vertical.
I brace mind against the fence and slowly lower it down. Sometimes I accidentally tip it one way or another, but it usually works. Having something that extends the fence up would be best, like you can do for a tenon jig or cross cutting on a table saw. Alternatively, there are jigs that seems to work well. I'm going to check some of them out and see if they are easer to use. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for a great video. I came across some sticks that were going to be thrown away from a cabinet shop and I’ve made 30 cutting boards. I have a 10 inch planer and a lot of glue. So far they’ve came out looking very nice, there are a mix of black, walnut, cherry maple oak, and even some purple heart.this video has given me the information I need to complete the transformation from sticks to beautiful cutting boards. Thanks again. You do nice work.
Thanks David -- sounds like you have a great project. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. Thanks!
Thanks and thanks for watching!
Used the same process for years! Works well
Thanks Chris! And thanks for watching.
Great instructions, I will be saving your video for future cutting boards.
Thanks Brian - thanks for watching!
❤I put tape on the face of both ends of board and mark width of groove on the tape. I mark left and right edges of the bit on the router insert. Then I make the cut starting and stopping when the marks align with bit edges. No measuring and no stop blocks needed. I also have the half finder jig to align bit center to fence distance. This method is simple especially when doing multiple boards that vary in width.
Thanks Ken - do you cut the full depth in on pass? I usually take 3-4 passes so I wouldn't rely on myself hitting the same stopping point each time. Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru I do 3/16 deep groove in 1 pass.
One suggestion would be to run both flat sides against the fence - this would guarantee a perfectly centered handle.
I used to do that but stopped simply to save some time. Perhaps I will start again - thanks for watching!
Nice technique
Thanks and thanks for watching!
what type of router bit did you use?
Hi John - I used a 3/4" Bowl Bit - amzn.to/3GmfEBq. Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. I’m currently in the process of trying out your method for routing finger groove handles on the sides of my board. What size and type did you use (specifically the one pictured)?
Thanks -- I'm using a white side 3/4" bowl bit in the description and here -> amzn.to/3GmfEBq. Thanks for watching!
@@cyberreefguru The 3/4 " core box bit is used if we don't have the bowl bit?
@@tomcarpenter1153 Sure - that works fine. The only difference is the flat bottom if you flip the board over and cut both sides to ensure it's centered.
Do you cut board in vertical or horizontal position , thank you ? Jack in Idaho
Hi Jack - I cut them in the vertical position (6:38) since the bit is facing up. You can get a ball bit (amzn.to/3ULJvcq) to cut horizontal, but then your depth is limited to the width of your bit.
I find keeping the board vertical and not tilting it towards you is the challenge. I’ve wondered if two sided taping a right angled triangle(s) to the board would help keeping it vertical.
I brace mind against the fence and slowly lower it down. Sometimes I accidentally tip it one way or another, but it usually works. Having something that extends the fence up would be best, like you can do for a tenon jig or cross cutting on a table saw. Alternatively, there are jigs that seems to work well. I'm going to check some of them out and see if they are easer to use. Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Do you round over the board edges with a router before or after you router the handholds?