Hobby Cheating 246 - Attaching Minis to a Base
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- Опубліковано 19 чер 2020
- In this Hobby Cheating Tutorial, I take you through some simple methods of attaching models to a base, whether they have pins in their feet or not. The best glue for getting them attached and how to solve the dreaded floating foot problem.
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The most over packaged tube of glue I have ever seen. Who knew we needed something to squeeze the tube for us.
It's fantastically poorly designed packaging.
More likely it's intentionally designed to "run out" prematurely so you buy more of it than you need to.
@@Bobamelius sadly it is a pretty common tactic for most manufacturing.
the timing on this couldnt have been more perfect, thank you Vince.
Happy to help as always.
Vince is nailing it. I am designing my bases for my new Slaves to Darkness army. Perfect timing. As with all my armies I like to keep the bases themed and tell a story of where they are.
Nice, I hate those loctite containers! never thought about taking it apart. Also shows how much is just packaging to make it look like you're gettting a ton of glue sheesh
Yep and Yep. :)
This right here is the real pro tip.
The trick with the glue I leaned from another of your videos and it has made such a difference. I cry about all the glue I have wasted in the past!
Glad it helped! and we all wasted that glue. (I did the same for a while before I got curious and breaking things apart is my natural state).
Spooky good timing on this as I'm about to attach minis with pins in their feet to textured up bases & wasn't 100% sure on how to proceed or deal with the floating foot syndrome!
That tip about the loctite is golden, and I'm so glad you covered it again. Thanks again, Vince!
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
I literally just finished attaching figs to bases hours before this posted - but all great info. Thanks for including the bit on how you tore down the stupid squeeze bottle for the glue as mine was just about to run out (you'd mentioned it in a previous video, but having a visual demonstration really shows just how easy it is).
Glad it was helpful! :)
For the lady at 9:00 , naive me has to ask: why not take your pliers out and bend the pin a bit before gluing?
Oh, I have a simple answer for this, because I am dumb. :) - You are correct, I didn't realize she was that far off in the test and then had glue on there and had to recover, in the end, it's fine, she hasn't had any issue sticking since you saw her here and she has gotten a few games in, so she should be good. :)
@@VinceVenturella Glad to hear she's already seen the field of battle several times!
Props, I bought that exact glue a few weeks ago not remembering where I got the tube rescue technique from, never the less I remembered how to do it and now I rediscover the source, most excellent thx : )
Awesome. :)
Another great tutorial! I’m working on my jungle bases now, and will hopefully be gluing my army in a couple days!
Awesome, can't wait to see everything and hope this helps.
as I was gluing my figs, this pops up. Thanks as always Vsquared
Happy to help! :)
Amazing video. Very helpful, and stunning paint jobs.
Thank you very much!
I hope that all your days are filled with joy!!
Thank you!
Just in time for planning my resin base toppers from Seasons of War. Thanks Vince!
Always happy to help :)
Cheers Vince, always appreciate your content 👍
My pleasure!
Oh wow, never thought to look at those glue bottles construction, thanks for that lesson
Happy to help :)
Vince: I don't like the spray bottle because it goes everywhere.
Also Vince: *drenches figure in accelerant*
Well, it was only a drop or two, but yes, it does go running. :)
Wow that super glue trick is amazing. I've gone through so many of these glue bottles thinking they were empty.
On a side note it's funny how so many of us are blown away by the superglue revelation. Bonus hobby cheating lol
I won't lie, it was about 50% of the reason I anted to do this video.
Dude..... you're awesome I love you! answered so many different things to me in this video as well as what the hell up in glasses actually called so much harder to find one when nobody knows that you're trying to describe to them LOL.
Thank you, happy to help as always. :)
Great super glue trick! I use the same stuff, and now will have it last twice as long, thanks! A little trick you can do to have your bits snap less, is to place it further into the chuck so its a bit more rigid. Typically I only have the bit come out as far as the pin hole would be deep. Thanks for the great vids!
Great idea!!
One tip for when you don't have alot of contact area between foot and base, like in your foot on skull example, is to glue it like normal. Instead of accelerator sprinkle the exposed glue with baking soda. It will combine with the superglue and make a rock hard join. Same thing for where you gap filled the next foot with putty. Way stronger than putty and less work to touch up.
It's a good point, what I would normally do is actually scrape the skull a little at the point of contact, but as I was setting up for the video, I forgot that step. Woops. :)
This is a big help, thanks Vince!
Thank you for watching. :)
I had no idea that is what zap-a-gap was used for lol!
Great video as always! A tip for you who accidentally make a hole in your glue tubes: Cover the hole with a bit of greenstuff and it'll be useable longer. That way you don't waste an entire tube when being clumsy.
Thank you and great tup, thanks for sharing. :)
On the loctite glue THANK YOU. ive used like 10 of these bottles and never knew that there was more inside
Nice Video, thank you.
But for the pinned mini, wouldn't it be easier to slightly bend the pin to have less tension on the glue?
I was going to suggest the same thing
Definitely.
That was my first thought.
You are all correct, this is what we call a dumb mistake while filming. Normally, I would actually bend the pin, but I misjudged on my test fit and then we got here. But yes, you would bend the pin. :)
I like the little watch gear-like structures on the base of that figure.
Yeah, you can buy big bags of cool gears and other decorative watch parts from ebay for cheap and they make great basing material.
Holy moly, I've been wasting glue! Thanks for the tip!
Happy to help!
I wish I knew about the thing about the Loctite bottle 4 weeks ago. But now I know to cut open the case. Only a bit in one bottle wasted. Thanks for the trick! Mini basing part was nice too, but sorry to say that the glue bottle thing stole the spotlight for me :-)
I don't mind, if I'm honest, this whole video was almost an excuse just to share that tip. ;)
Great stuff as always
Glad you enjoyed it
Usefull video! I always thought I need to pin both feet. I did it for marine sized minis, guess I should only do that for bigger models. Also: I should get some CA glue accelerator.
Glad it was helpful! Yeah, I glue both feet, but I only do 2 pins for REALLY big or heavy minis, never had an issue.
Great tip on the glue! Thanks!
Happy to help! :)
And thank you for pointing outthe obviousness of not giving a s*** about Minor imperfections, like it's so simple but its until now to hit me how much of my enjoyment I was taking for myself. I've got my work time down to 6 hours for two infantry units so like I could do 2 infiltrators, incursors, or intercessors in six hours.... And I was proud of that time! Lol but I was doing every single model every single little piece like it was being prepared for a golden demon competition or something like that and I'm doing this on 3000 points worth of space Marines. And you're right unless it's going to competition it doesn't matter!!
Glad to help as always and it's reallyy a key, enjoy the 99.9% of your work thats great, don't focus on the .1% problem. :)
Whoa thanks Vince for the glue hack!!!👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👍👍👍👍
No issue, always happy to help. :)
Great glue tip!
Thank you!
Great tutorial, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
When I pin my model to the base, I’ll dip the tip of the metal pin in paint, dab it when I plan to pin, and it gives me the precise spot to drill.
A good tip. That's a good plan or sure, I do the same when pinning two parts together.
But not the angle.
What I do is drill one hole, put a ball of tack on the other part, then push them together gently. Some of the tack will go up in the first hole and hopefully the whole thing will stay on the undrilled part. When you separate them, you have a little tack nub that shows you both placement and angle of the other hole. Push the pin vise right through it and drill.
Hi Vince. Thanks a lot for that tip on the gel superglue. I definitely have wasted my fair share of glue in those...never thought to try to rip apart the bottle, I just assumed it was empty like a good brainless consumer, hehe. Think I'll start buying gel glue again because of this. Thanks!
Awesome, I feel like I'm sharing state secrets on this one. :)
In my experience the type of super glue doesnt really matter. Especially when you glue something to a painted surface. The bond between the glue and the paint is stronger then the bond between the model and the paint. So your connection never gets stronger then the bond between the paint and the model.
So when possible never glue painted surfaces together the bond is just too weak. Definitely use pins in that circumstance.
You are correct, if I was thinking, I should've scraped the top of the skull (as the bottom of the foot was already paint free), but that's the problem with setting something up to record, you always forget something. :)
@@VinceVenturella Recording blindness is a very real event. You're thinking about what you're immediately doing and what you'll say next, and sometimes the most ridiculously obvious stuff just goes right on by without your brain even registering it. Used to happen to me all the time.
Thank you so much for the super glue hack!
Any time! Happy to help. :)
Thanks Vince, I learned a couple of new things and had many more reaffirmed. Something that I have heard many times down the years is not to glue to paint, as the bond is only as strong as the bond between the paint and the surface it was applied to. Is it something that you ever concern yourself with?
Yes, in this case, I should have scraped the top of the skull first, that was me moving too fast. :) (I should have also bent the pin). :)
Thank you for the video!!!
Welcome!
In my country we have a different Loctite superglue plastic package, it is shaped more like a pen (it is called Perfect Pen). But the principle is the same, some plastic to squeeze the glue. Thanks for the idea of opening the plastic to see if there is glue inside, I just can't squeeze my anymore while it is in the plastic container.
Awesome, happy to help as always. :)
My mind is blown by the loctite tube trick
Amazing right. :)
your minis is so pretty!
Thanks!
great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Am going to be working on a Death BlitzBowl team. They come with Bloodbowl bases (slot/hole), however the models don't use the slot. So am going to fill the gap with dry wall and glue. Then try to pin tiny feet skeletons/zombie/ghouls. I don't use plastic putty. For gaps I use "Green Stuff World Matt Surface Primer" it's thick. Or I mix flower/paint/glue for floating foots... I might try that putty out.
It's actually a really nice quick easy putty and water soluable, so it's easy to shape and clean up.
Hi Vince. Thanks for the video. Does the glue stick to painted surfaces? I am trying to attach minis to pre-painted, flat (indoor setting) bases. Do I need to pin?
So the glue (unless it's something like plastic glue which eats paint) but with super glue, it will sometimes pull apart because the paint isn't as strongly bonded. What I should have done (and normally do, but forgot to in advance of the video) is scrape a small area of the connection area apart.
That being said, I almost always use a pin when I can.
As always your timing for releasing videos covering incredibly specific speedbumps that im facing is surreal lol; Do you find that using accelorant reduces the risk of frosting once the superglue sets? i've been having issues with it lately no matter how carefully i apply the glue or how well i ventilate it, cheers!
The answer is it will still fog, but that's okay. After I attach the mini, I always come back in with a little wash or pigment on both the ground and the feet. It helps to both cover up the fog and tie the mini into it's environment.
Thanks for the video, Sir! I have thrown away innumerable bottles of half-empty glue bottles apparently, but no more! Also, when using accelerant, I've developed the habit of unscrewing the top and letting it drip off of the tube onto the glue. Not really a good idea, as it is very easily tipped over, spilling accelerant everywhere! Man, that stuff stinks!!! Love the idea of using it in a dropper bottle! Got any more simple but stupidly overlooked tips?? Thanks!
Hmmmm...I have lots of more tips, I would say about 245 videos worth. ;) - In all seriousness, its hard to think of them individually they come up when I am doing the thing, but I will certainly always go out of my way to mention them.
Ok I'll be cracking open those glue dispensers now :o
It's the worst packaging.
Thanks another fine video.
I have a question. Using 30mm GW style base I added pinning as well as small weights to stabilize the minis. However as a result the underside of the bases looks a bit messy. As this is for a boardgame and the minis may occasionaly lay on the side. I wonder what is a good way to fill the underside of the base, to make a "clean underside"?
I was thinking of filler or coating stuff, but I'd rather want something slick and not to chalky, and eventually lay down a coat or two of black primer for finishing?
I don't think I've ever had that question. That being said, I would use something like miliput. Put it in there, smooth down with wet fingers. then let it partially cure for a few hours. Then just slice off the extra, let it fully dry, Then sand a little if necessary and paint it black.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks. Unusual for sure, I never faced this situation before. However Chess players even appreciate a felt layer under their pieces.
I DIDNT KNOW ABOUT THE SUPERGLUE. IVE BEEN USING IT FOR 3 YEARS LIKE A DAMN FOOL
It's okay, I wasted plenty too, but then my need to destroy things took over and I got to the truth of the matter. :)
For the stormcast how did you do that base? Like what is that big grey, building block.?
Ahh, so this is fun, it's actually the ruins set from the Azyrite Temple, instead of the whole temple, you can buy just ruin bits. I take those and cut them apart into size for the individual bases. :)
I will watch any video on the subject of bases that you can possibly make.
Well, more are coming. :)
Vince what size paper clip / drill bits are you using? I always get these wrong and end up with a hole thats too big/small
So I have a ton of drill bits, I ordered them in bulk from ebay (they are a few bucks for dozens) and then I just found the ones the match the two sizes of paper clips. Specifically I am using 50mm and 25mm. But I prefer the bigger ones.
A DIY alternative to superglue accelerator is spit. The moisture and amino acids in it speed up the reaction, although not as much.
Same kind of reason the stuff will glue your fingertips together so damn fast.
Interesting, good to know, not sure I want to spit on my minis, but nice to know it's an option.
Hey, Vince, is Loctite better than other super glues? I've got (I wanna say) Kraft super glue, and I've found some mini parts just snap off sometimes. The other issue I've had is fogging when I use it to attach two parts that I've painted separately. Any advice?
I can't speak for every super glue, but I will say the ultra gel control has worked better than most of the things I have tried from the hardware store. I mention the fogging at the end of the video, the key is you just through a wash over it, or hit it with some pigment or a little paint or whatever (both the foot area and the group), that actually makes the piece look better (I do it with or without fogging) as it ties the mini to the world it's in.
Vince, do you ever do commissions, and if so, where can I find information on your rates, rules, etc? I'm a huge fan, and am trying to (slowly) start collecting one figure from each painter I admire.
Sadly I do not at this time, though I appreciate you reaching out. I barely keep up with all my own painting and the videos, so commision projects would break the time bank as it were. :)
Does the accelerator make it stronger or just quicker? I use the zap a gap glue itself but have not tried the accelerant.
Just quicker, doesn't change the durability.
the second model is very cool, can you share the bits you used for the conversion?
The base body is the LE Stormcast character, the wings are St. Celestine, the sword is a random power sword I found in the bits box and the lantern is from a terrain kit, though I couldn't tell you which one honestly.
And how do you pin smaller things? Like for example termagants or daemonettes with those thin non-straight legs.
I want to pin them for tabletop, because if i glue them like the first example - the connection will only be as strong as the adherence of the acryllic paint in that spot (because you are essentially gluing it to paint). Correct me if im wrong and that is a solid connection.
But all the videos i find are about pinning space marines (thick legs) or much larger models. I found 1 video wherea guy melts a hole with a hot needle, but that looks even scarier than drilling to me.
Maybe you could make a video about punning thin/fragile parts?
My honest answer is I don't pin them. I don't prime/paint the bottom of the feet so the glue has purchase on the plastic and the base. :)
13:20 Do you remember if you made a video where you wash tufts or integrate them in another naturalistic way? Would love to here your thoughts.
I do it as part of several different projects, but I couldn't tell you which videos. My honest answer is a little bit of wash like agrax and then once that's dry, a light drybrush over the top with a light color.
I have a nice-looking mini somewhere that has leeettle tiny feet-in fact, maybe only one foot is on the ground-attached to a horking great slot-style tab. The tab could be cut off, but then I'm not at all sure the foot could be drilled successfully. Any thoughts?
Cut your slotta base until you h ave pegs under the feet, and then drill a hole for those pegs in your base - it'll be a lot easier than messing with the feet. It's like a built in peg anyway :D
Leave some of the “Slotta-tab” attached to the foot, and clip off the rest. Then hopefully the basing you plan to use can be adapted to accept the remaining tab. If you can, check out Jimmy the Brush on Twitch TV sometime, you’ll see him using this method for old metal minis with customized clay bases. It works very well!
These two have exactly nailed it. The slotta base (if metal) can be an automatic pin and really save you time while keeping the mini stable.
Do you recommend doing bases separate? I seem to see a lot of people attach bases before starting the paint job.
In general for me, yes, always, I always do bases seprately. I just don't like the idea of having to paint around either part while working on the other. It's a question of your goals and time limitations, what I will certainly say is if you are going to do paste and grit and stuff like that, do all that first, attach the mini and then prime it all (if you need to do everything at once for some reason). Never try to paste AFTER you've painted.
This is perfect timing :) I'm in the market for some new Super Glue for exactly this reason. I'm fairly new and i been using Citadels texture paints to do my bases and i'm using superglue to fix the models to them.
Loctite is just a brand of superglue but the gel type featured here is excellent & crazy strong. Plus easy to control!
How about a 4 pack of super glue for only $1.88??? www.walmart.com/ip/Duro-All-Purpose-Super-Glue-0-42-Oz-4-Pack/724232189
@@jasont5427 I'm in england :( we don't have a wallmart
@@samprastherabbit Oh i know :) I meant the techniques and how he does it.
@@GothicKittyMadness You may still find it there by searching for the DURO brand 4 pack
"...a little dab of this stuff will do ya. It's very potent..." B-)
Just a little dab.
Does the accelerant help with super glue fogging?
No it will still fog, but the same things you saw me do at the end here is what I always recommend for every figure, some wash or pigment on the ground and the foot, because it will tie the two pieces together,.
Personally, I prefer to bend the pin in the appropriate angle before gluing it, I don't like the idea of having the model in a constant tension when all it's glued on is ultimately in fine layer of paint. I also don't use accelerant, so it makes life easier, I'd have to keep it in place a lot longer :p
Pins are also great if you plan on switching bases, by just giving it a slight S shape, it'll force when inserted and the mechanical tension will keep it in place, no glue needed.
Yes, this was a case of the test being not quite lined up correctly. I had intended to have it at the right angle, and in my test it looked fine, but then, of course, when live, it didn't line up correctly.
What kind of accelerant you use?
Zap kicker
For some reason I have particular issues with that specific loktite tube getting blocked :/
Mine dries in the spout all the time. I keep a pin handy to shove down to clear the blockage.
Get yourself Vasoline, or petroleum jelly and smear it on the plastic spout- try and avoid the hole on top- the superglue can't work on the jelly! Had that exact problem and drove me bananas.
Yeah, I always keep a paper clip near by, a couple of swipes and it's generally clear without issue.
Did you mention that you wash your tuft??? I'm sure you mentionned that in another video that I probably missed... which one was it??
Yep, always, I've done it in most videos where I apply tufts, so various basing videos. I will likely do a whole video dedicated to it in the future, but the key is to take some wash (something like Agrax) and force it down into the heart o the tuft and around the base of the tuft on the groud. Then a little dry brushing across the top when that is dry and you are good to go.
@@VinceVenturella thanks!! I'll try that soon!
Do you ever feel the need to pin both feet or is 1 generally enough?
I generally only pin 1 foot unless we are talking about a BIG model or a heavy model (think like something that is 7-10" tall or made of resin).
that was one overpackaged glue. I usually have problem with glue dried near the top of the applicator which needs some vigorous manual encouragement and a pin to get it running. Really one of the most unfun part of miniature painting.
Yeah, I keep a good 50mm Paper clip that I use solely for this purpose.
Unsure if this comment will be seen but I'm a beginner and want to make really nice bases. I usually paint my minis on a base so I can hold them on my GW mini-holder. How do I transfer from the basic base to a custom base? Do I clip around the feet with clippers or something? Thanks!
So my best advice is very lightly glue, just a small drop of super glue, then when ready, use thr tip of your clippers to slide under and just pop it off lightly.
@@VinceVenturella I've just used plastic glue so far for the feet
@@Glatius Yeah, you want to avoid that as that will actually bond them to the base. You'll have to cut them loose and you have a higher chance of damaging the figures.
@@VinceVenturella Thanks Vince, I'll be sure to keep this in mind as I continue on my miniature painting adventure. Still starting out so it's a better time than ever to be learning :D
I think I've trashed dozens of those same glue bottles without ever knowing!
We all have, I threw away so many before I got the urge to figure out what was happening.
Bob Smith Industries is the daddy of super glues, their Insta Cure+ is always nice and liquid and glues plastic and metal like a champ good for pins and minis or magnets and plastic minis (I imported loads of that glue into my place in Europe). Now back to the video, you're using super glue (and some accelerator) to glue instead of plastic glue, kinda makes sense if the base and underside of the feet are not both plain exposed plastic (in which case I would use plastic glue instead if it was plain unpainted plastic to plastic). This week I had and ork boy with paint on the soles of his boots and a plain unpainted base, I put plastic glue (Tamiya extra cement ) and it would not easily stick down to the base, the points under his boot on the actual base were melting yet it still was not sticking down and being stable after gently holding it down for 40 seconds, it was almost a disaster. There is almost an art to getting minis placed onto bases securely and neatly without creating a mess.
I'll have to give that glue a try, never tried it. As to the plastic glue, I just tend to avoid it for minis because I often have pins in the feet most of the time, one of the reasons I actually did this was the rare non-pinned foot. :)
I wasted so much glue with those bottles. Thank you!
Never again will I be tricked by Big glue’s lies!
Why don't you just by a tube of Loctite 454? It's the same adhesive, and would save a lot of mucking around.
I'll have to look into the 454, I was not aware of the product, I tried several at my hardware store and this one came out best :)
Vince I love your video's, but when you put pressure to glue the winged figure to the skull I was really scratching my head. I don't think putting such stress on the pin is good advice for longeivity. Perhaps it holds up, but we spend so much time painting our figures it really hurt my eyes you doing that.
Instead, re-drill the hole and put in a little bit of green stuff. Superglue tends to work a bit like an accelerant for green stuff (atleast that's my experience). I use this to glue heavier pieces or wrong holes like in instances like this.
On another note, those powerswords look incredible :)
THank you for the kind words, the really simple answer here should have been to bend the pin beforehand with a set of pliers. the issue came from my test fit, which I thought was solid (I shouldn't have used a more standard figure rather than this very unusual stance), but either way, I tested it and got the wrong bend beforehand, then didn't notice until it was too late.
I'm surprised you glued to a painted surface I usually make sure both surfaces are unpainted.
Usually I would scrap the very top of the skull (for the same reason), but I forgot to scrape it before the video and then we were off to the races.
Honestly guessing part of the reason for the package is to get people to buy more glue...
It just seems fantastically poorly designed.
Sorta noob question from someone that should know better. Is the Loctite actually better than all other brands when it comes to its viscosity or is there a measure of control required to make sure gel based super glue doesn't go everywhere? I mean, I know you shouldn't take a death grip to the tube. Yet whenever I use Gorilla Glue's equivalent of what you use, no matter how slowly I try to squeeze it, I always get more that comes out than what it should. And the thing is, I don't have this problem with paint bottles. It doesn't matter whether I'm trying to squeeze a drop out of something that's stiffer like a Warcolours bottle or a little more flexible like a Vallejo bottle. But with the Gorilla Glue, I always have this sequence of "Squeeze, nothing, squeeze a little harder, still nothing, squeeze a little harder than that, tiny movement of glue WITHIN the tube but still nothing comes out of the tube, squeeze with the same level of force as the last squeeze, glue comes spurting out all over the place". It's so frustrating because it's not like I have fine motor control issues. I can do some other miniature painting techniques that require a bit of control with fairly decent results without completely screwing everything up, but God help me if I can't do something as simple as getting glue out of the tube without it going everywhere. Really makes me think it's the glue and not me as often as it happens. I'm thinking it's the material the tube is made out of. I swear Gorilla Glue's tube is made out of some kind of alloy whereas the Loctite tube looks like it's made out of plastic only. I'm thinking the slight buckling that happens when you squeeze anything out of a metal tube is what causes this issue. If it was something larger like an oil paint tube it probably wouldn't be an issue, but when one is applying that much force to such a small area, any overshoot is greatly exaggerated.
I absolutely love the gorilla Super Glue that has the brush applicator. It has a yellow cap, it makes applying the perfect amount of glue foolproof
I suspect that what could have happened is the nozzle is getting blocked. I'd shove a thin pin down before trying to to get glue out. Sounds like a pain in the butt of a glue tube to use lol I put vaseline on the spout to stop it gluing the cap to itself
@@samprastherabbit
Yeah the nozzle is fine, it just comes all out at once when it finally does come out if I get to the end of a blob and need to squeeze some glue at the back of the tube towards the front. That said, I have had issues in the past with the cap getting stuck to the spout. I have vaseline that I use to keep epoxy putty from sticking to sculpting tools, and I haven't ever had that problem with Gorilla Glue specifically, but I'll keep that in mind if I ever switch brands and have that problem again. Thanks for the tip.
Sounds like you've gotten some good answers here, I will say I occasionally have a blcoked tip with the loc-tite, but I clear with a paper clip and it comes right out.
it makes me sad ALL THAT UNNECESSARY PLASTIC around what is just a tube of glue, and that you will discard it anyway
Well, on the bright side, the piece inside is awesome for terrain and the other part can be recycled. :)
Definitely just wasted glue
?
@@VinceVenturella I threw away two bottles of super glue with the squeeze thing. How do I make my airbrush paint last longer. Mine is getting older and clogs or tip dries really quick