I actually just bought one of these myself for my RV. I noticed that they sold two different parts one with the Anderson extension cable to lugs and one without. Strangely, in my case, the one with the extension cable was cheaper so I bought it. Now I can just connect that to my bus bars and keep the Anderson connector
can someone please do a head to head comparison of all the new 460ah lifepo4 batteries that are coming out? redodo bird, roamer, litime, epoch, basen, VATRER, power drag queen, etc.. thanks in advance! @@madetoexplore
Yes, it probably does. I would recommend using the Anderson transition cable. I think that was the goal for the CORE series since those are the only Renogy batteries that can be installed in series. Although they aren’t heated and they don’t have Bluetooth.
It’s completely up to you but I don’t think it’s required. Fuses are meant to protect the wire first and the electrical component second. If you have a long run of wire, it would be a good idea. The BMS should also protect the battery from over current and automatically shut down.
You can expand as you can afford more would be one benefit. Some people think more components increase the possibility of something going wrong. Some people think having more is a good because you’ll have a backup if one breaks. Personally, I like to keep things as simple as possible. I’d prefer to have this 400ah battery rather than 2 or 4 smaller ones.
@@madetoexplore do you think that it would be good enough to run a 12 V AC roof unit such as the Dometic RTX 2000 if you are energy conscious and would be mindful of not running your AC with your water heater and your induction stove?
Hey, great review. I have one of these REGO 400ah batteries too. I'm curious why you're using a shunt if you have battery monitoring built into the battery itself?
@@madetoexplore ahhhh I see! Makes sense. I have a Victron bmv712 that I am planning on removing once the renogy gear is installed. The renogy m1 will go in its place
Thanks for the review. Do you get a yellow flashing warning light when the battery gets to full charge? I have two REGO's in my system and the warning light comes on every time it gets to %100 charge. Just wondering if that is normal.
I don’t think that happens for me but I do get a yellow light when there isn’t enough solar power for the internal heater to turn on when the battery’s cold.
What about just swapping my 2 lead acid batteries with the regu? I have a Rockwood with 200 built in solar. I can change the charger to lithium setting. This seems like an easy swap. Would I need anything else?
I really need your help. I bought the Rego battery and the Rego MPPT charger, 3 200 W solar panels and I am waiting for the inverter but there’s a missing part and it’s the combiner box that puts everything together, but unfortunately renogy is out of stock and the company has said that they have stopped the productions I’m currently living in the Sierra Nevada in California with record snowfall and it gets pretty cold in here, what alternatives can I use to bond it all together, I really appreciate any help. Thanks
@@madetoexplore Degradation. I'm about to replace the batteries. Less than 3 years old. The system worked perfectly when it was new. Not any more. Nothing was changed in that time. These aren't the first components to fail either.
@@madetoexplore 2 200 AH, a 50A Dc to Dc and a 2000 inverter, I'm on the 2nd DC charger, the inverter still works fine, though it has be be shut off when not in use for any length of time or it's a parasite. Some people have had no trouble with their stuff, just not me.
Thank you guys for watching! What do you think of Renogy's new REGO lineup?
will let you know in a bit, ordered the 400ah battery at 4am today (Amazon Black Friday deal)
Dude, just wanted to say thanks for the renogy discount code. Saved us $165 on a $2500 order. Thanks for the content, just subscribed. ✌️🇨🇦
Welcome! Really appreciate the support man
I actually just bought one of these myself for my RV. I noticed that they sold two different parts one with the Anderson extension cable to lugs and one without. Strangely, in my case, the one with the extension cable was cheaper so I bought it. Now I can just connect that to my bus bars and keep the Anderson connector
That’s perfect 👍
can someone please do a head to head comparison of all the new 460ah lifepo4 batteries that are coming out? redodo bird, roamer, litime, epoch, basen, VATRER, power drag queen, etc.. thanks in advance! @@madetoexplore
nice video. we just bought the other side of the Anderson and connected that to our sytem. now we have a quick way to disconnect.
I would definitely recommend doing this! Much easier than my way 😂
Thanks for the review and the coupon - what a great savings!!!
Your welcome! Good luck with the install 👍
I'd be concerned that drilling out the Anderson connectors would void the warranty. Hopefully they make something similar in 48 V for the off griders.
Yes, it probably does. I would recommend using the Anderson transition cable. I think that was the goal for the CORE series since those are the only Renogy batteries that can be installed in series. Although they aren’t heated and they don’t have Bluetooth.
Great video .. was wondering if anl fuse should be added between battery and bus bar for added protection? Thoughts?
It’s completely up to you but I don’t think it’s required. Fuses are meant to protect the wire first and the electrical component second. If you have a long run of wire, it would be a good idea. The BMS should also protect the battery from over current and automatically shut down.
Thanks for the feedback.. in your current setup are you using the 600a blue sea bus bar?
5:27 was you not tempted to like that connector
I have read that it can be more beneficial to have 2x 200 Ah batteries than one 400 Ah battery, or 4x100 Wh batteries. Is there any truth to this?
You can expand as you can afford more would be one benefit. Some people think more components increase the possibility of something going wrong. Some people think having more is a good because you’ll have a backup if one breaks. Personally, I like to keep things as simple as possible. I’d prefer to have this 400ah battery rather than 2 or 4 smaller ones.
@@madetoexplore do you think that it would be good enough to run a 12 V AC roof unit such as the Dometic RTX 2000 if you are energy conscious and would be mindful of not running your AC with your water heater and your induction stove?
Hey, great review. I have one of these REGO 400ah batteries too. I'm curious why you're using a shunt if you have battery monitoring built into the battery itself?
Thanks! I had the monitor installed prior to getting this new Rego battery. I also use to test out other batteries that don’t have Bluetooth.
@@madetoexplore ahhhh I see! Makes sense. I have a Victron bmv712 that I am planning on removing once the renogy gear is installed. The renogy m1 will go in its place
@@chrisluehmann3094 nice! Sounds like a good system 👍
Thanks for the review. Do you get a yellow flashing warning light when the battery gets to full charge? I have two REGO's in my system and the warning light comes on every time it gets to %100 charge. Just wondering if that is normal.
I don’t think that happens for me but I do get a yellow light when there isn’t enough solar power for the internal heater to turn on when the battery’s cold.
What about just swapping my 2 lead acid batteries with the regu? I have a Rockwood with 200 built in solar. I can change the charger to lithium setting. This seems like an easy swap. Would I need anything else?
Yeah as long as your chargers are compatible with lithium it should be pretty easy!
I really need your help. I bought the Rego battery and the Rego MPPT charger, 3 200 W solar panels and I am waiting for the inverter but there’s a missing part and it’s the combiner box that puts everything together, but unfortunately renogy is out of stock and the company has said that they have stopped the productions I’m currently living in the Sierra Nevada in California with record snowfall and it gets pretty cold in here, what alternatives can I use to bond it all together, I really appreciate any help. Thanks
Wow that’s unfortunate! If the combiner box isn’t available then you’ll have to cut and crimp each wire and install a positive and negative busbar
two questions; do you still need a battery switch since this battery has a power button? And can it be mounted on it's side?
No I don’t think you need one and yes you can mount it on its side
Nice setup ✌
Thanks!
If I ever win the Lottery, I'll buy the system for our home, LOL!
Great idea haha
Any issues with buying two for a 24v system?
They can only be installed in parallel for a 12v system. Only the Renogy core batteries can be installed in series.
@@madetoexplore thank you very much, sadly if need 24v loved everything else about them. Thanks for the video was super helpful
@@LiamG903 welcome!
Did you find a way to put this into a normal system
sorry. I see you answered that in the rest of the video
@@sakocat no problem! Battery is still working great 👍
Honestly, i would think about going 24 or 48v - That's huuuge!!
I have but it doesn’t really make since with my build and I wouldn’t save that much battery storage space
No more Renogy stuff ever.
Why’s that?
@@madetoexplore
Degradation. I'm about to replace the batteries. Less than 3 years old. The system worked perfectly when it was new. Not any more. Nothing was changed in that time. These aren't the first components to fail either.
@@cabracove which components and what batteries did you have?
@@madetoexplore
2 200 AH, a 50A Dc to Dc and a 2000 inverter, I'm on the 2nd DC charger, the inverter still works fine, though it has be be shut off when not in use for any length of time or it's a parasite.
Some people have had no trouble with their stuff, just not me.
@@cabracoveinteresting, I have the same components and they’ve been working great for 4 years now. No issues at all!