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Corsair CX500 PSU Repair
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- Опубліковано 18 бер 2016
- Investigation & Repair of my Corsair CX500 (aka CWT). There appears to be a design flaw?
Power Monitor IC PS229:
www.techpowerup...
EDIT: PG on the ATX connector == PGO on the chip
Hello! Thank you so much for your work and video. Replaced SMD resistor and now my CX500 works like a charm again. I owe you a good whiskey!
Hey man, thank you so much for your investigation and video. Took me just 15 minutes to repair my CX500M power supply - 10 minutes to watch the video and 5 minutes to disassemble PSU, locate SMD resistor and replace it with 10KOHM one. Thanks A LOT!
Just had this EXACT issue. 0.111v on PSU_OK. After some frustration I tried just wiring PSU_OK to 5V, which obviously didn't work because it is timing based. This video is fantastic and I am going to retrofit mine immediately.
Update
Of course it worked!
I reckon there are enough examples in the comments here to confirm the design fault - I wish companies would disclose this kind of stuff but competition is not conducive to admitting flaws I guess.
I had this exact issue on my corsair VS550. PSU is working now, pc boots normally. Paralled 24k to the 20k making it 1.8v before it was 1.1v. I think corsair should give you compensation for solving this issue and sharing to the world.
cool story to tell on first date
Ladies love the techno-babble :)
Thank youuu, my cx600 had the same issue, replaced the 22k resistor with a 10k and problem solved
can you explain your cx600 problem? because I also use it, when the green pin is connected to the black pin the problem is the fan just rotates for a while, and turns off.
Thank you for the video. I was able to repair my CX600M that was in my trash pile by soldering a 22K SMD resistor in parallel with the existing one. 😁👍
What do you mean by existing one?
@@dogodogo5891 Watch around minute 7:30. I watched this video long time ago. He did a great analysis of the power supply. To reduce the value of the existing resistor you solder another one in parallel to det to the desired value.
Was just about to order a new psu when I thought I'll just give youtube a try. And here we are - identical problem! It does take a certain mindset to want to try & repair this sort of fault as all too easy to junk it and buy another - so well done! Particularly impressed you managed to locate the point on the board between the 2 resistors. Vey small.... In the end I just added the parallel resistor as per your pics (2 X 10K in series as that was all I had). Didnt touch the capacitor. Seems to have done the trick - so thanks.
thank you brother, I have the exact same source and the same problem, tomorrow I have the same thing that you have done and I hope that it will be solved, really I and others are very fortunate that you have decided to invest time in this in case someone serves you, a Good video title makes it easy to get to. thank you.
thanks
Ya Thank you! luckily I found you, I was working the same problem for 2 months and changed almost all the components. : )
hello can you help me to solve my cx500w problem please
i have a littel bit of experience
Hai great video.. Going through same issue for my cosair VC550 smps..
Couldn't find any 22k resistor in my smps
Can i supply 5v directly to power good out grey wire
Will i able to fix this issue
Yes you can, but you will loose over/under voltage protection. Especially during the power on phase.
@@Matt47247523457 Thanks for your valuable reply
It seems to be a common issue plaguing all of the CX series power supplies. I was looking on the bay and there is a person selling dozens of these various units ranging from 500 to 850 watts, all dead of course. I am tempted to purchase one and see if I can take a crack at it. In regard to power supplies in general, there is typically a group of transistors that are tied to the pwm controller and if they become unstable can cause the power supply to not function. Also there are some low value (typically 2.2k ohm) resistors near the voltage regulators that can cause a breakdown in voltage. As you said, it's just a poor design, probably designed to make poor people go out and purchase a new unit, make them even poorer!
the problem is the junk capacitors. I re-capped them right out the box and they are still going strong after 5 years of daily use
you should,, the problems are usually very simple to solve but you need to analyse every single inch of it ... I repair them all the time, but the problem isn't always about bad caps..
@@PhuckHue2 all of them? Including ceramic one?
@@dogodogo5891 Its the electrolytics. The ceramics are fine. Sometimes crappy engineering is at fault too. I only buy Seasonic and gave up on the cheap junk
@@TeacherBrunoOneil also cheap manufacturing practices. They only care about volume. Something as simple as as a hipot test can fry something partially and when the consumer gets it its either DOA or dies in a month
So I have this old corsair cx650m showing the same exact symptoms. I know this a really old video. I was looking around if it is/was a common issue. Looks like it is. I’ll watch this video a few times and understand it better and maybe do the repair attempt.
I will also give my cx600 to a chance. It is disassembled right now. I am salvaging a resistor for it from scrap. My native language is not english so i did not understand whether the capacitor is necessary or not between PGI and ground.
My CX 750 worked fine for 3 and half years and then the pc restarting problem started.
Recently i replaced it with an unbranded 800watts smps unit, its build quality was very bad but my system is running correctly with no issues.
It has no 80+ certification written on it. And the cost of it is very cheap.
My corsair cx430 is dead. can you repair it?
Thank you
i just have the same problem with my smps. its a small and simple one ..for dvb-tv
but i am having the same problem of voltage drop on the optocoupler prtoection component (and tl431 zenner voltage reference)
when i tested with+5v output with dummy load - the protection take place at only 40ma consumption
when i connected external linear 5v PS to my DVB-TV it works just fine - with 800ma consumption
so the problem is at the smps(PS) side for sure
so i think your video just gave me the idea to play around with the voltage reference -resistors
and maybe to try to bypass the faulty current protection components
maybe the TL431 voltage reference that cause the voltage reference drop to early is the faulty component.
untill i get my new TL431 i will make some test with the voltage refernece current protection
as you did with changing the voltage Ref with resistors...
thanks . very nice work with the tutorial .
Hmmm this is a very different issue. Only adjust the optocoupler if you want to adjust the voltage output.
Here is an Laptop SMPS I was playing with. postimg.org/image/bdphc8pbt/
I would recommend looking for the op-amps first and looking at the voltages going into the 'plus / minus' pins. For this laptop 1 half of the op-amp controls the voltage. And the other half controls the current. (If I am remembering correctly)
Addon: if the output has a steady +5v output, I'm "assuming" the TL431 is working corrrectly. This smps laptop uses a AP4310. Which has the voltage reference & op-amps together. You could try to pull-down one minus side of one of the op-amps (just a little bit at first) and see if the voltage changes. If the voltage does change. Then its the wrong one. And the other op-amp probably controls the current limit.
hi..thanks for your quick replay..
i didnt notice any opamp on my SMPS board
i put here my section of the board photo
postimg.org/image/71kca0kqz/
so you can only see the tl431 zenner and the EL817 that cause my +5v output to go down to 2.5v
after connecting to any load above 40ma
(i tested all capacitors and even replaced 1 crazy 1000uF ,which wont read by any meter, by a new one near the +5v output )
how can i adjust the optocoupler in this board?
i dont have my board schematic - but i found general schematic with same components i have
and looks very simmilar to my board design with SD4841 switching IC
www.silan.com.cn/UploadPic/20090909143349157.jpg
i allready ordered dual smps module 12v 5v - for some $4 .. to replace my smps board.
but my goal is just to learn with tis simple board how to deal with SMPS in general.
so now i wonder if and how i can disable the current protection.
and just get steady +5v at the output?
then i would like to know if the TL431 causing the voltage drop
one thing i didnt understand with all the smps tutorials....:
does the voltage reference block responsible for the output +5v regulation ? or does it responsible to the current protection too ?
and who contols the PWM duty level to get the wanted output voltage(like +5v)
is this done with the help of the output monitoring -loop feedback? from the tl431 ?
or does it configured with the 4841 with some resistors?
i will sure keep watching more videos of SMSPS to get more deeper with this issue .
or maybe anyone here has any link or explanation for this .
thanks for your advise.
ELI
ahh i see. This is a simple design. This design has no current limitation at all. So you could try to pull many many amps from this board untill it does bang. (or the voltage is near 0v)
It checks the voltage level only. So it will feed more power (voltage and current) until the voltage is back to 5v again.
I can see why you want to change the TL431. because thats the only component on the secondary side.
Are you able to check the voltage on the phototransistor side of the opto-coupler. To check that the voltage it changing when the PSU in on-load and off-load.
P.S. thats the high voltage side, so becareful.
If the voltage changes (when its on/off load). Then I will assume the TL431 & the opto-coupler are working correctly.
Another test you can try.... When the PSU of off-load. Put a resistor (E.G. 10K) across the photo-diode side of the EL817. And that should increase the +5V output to something higher. Because you are creating a fake-load.
If you do not see a voltage change using a 10K resistor, try some thing smaller.
If output voltage does change, then (again) I'm assuming the secondary side is OK. And the EL817 & TL431 is working. And the SD4841 is not getting the feedback correctly.
www.datasheet4u.com/download_new.php?id=660477 (SD4841)
Also are you able to check the voltage on Pin 4 of SD4841. Because that should be the same as the phototransistor side of the opto-coupler.
"does the voltage reference block responsible for the output +5v regulation":
Yes (sort-of).
"who contols the PWM duty level to get the wanted output voltage":
Pin 4 (FB) input controls the PWM Pin 6/7/8 (Drain) output.
You can see I have answered yes to both questions. Because its trying to keep a balance between it all.
If you have a look at page 9 of the PDF. I hope it explains it a bit.
I know I have not answered all your questions. But I'm sure there will more after checking the voltage values of the pins.
Hi Techy Bits-n-Bobs, did you consider that it maybe the Cpgi cap that has decreased in value at it is close to the heatsink? 50V 1uF in my CX430M. This capacitor stores the noisy voltage peaks you found on the output of the transformer, prior to L-C filter. If this capacitor reduces in value, then the "emptying" time constant through the resistor chain make the PGI input voltage likely to trigger. The point I make here is because my PSU worked for 5 years, something has aged. So while the resistor fix will work it is compensating for the 1uF failing. Many thanks for your informative video, a great help. Please reply with your thoughts :)
Excellent find but there's one problem: The root cause is still unknown. Why should the PSU work initially and then start failing later? Something must have changed... I see you did not replace the high voltage side capacitor which could be bad as well. If it is going bad, the waveforms could change at the transformer, causing the problem. However, I do believe that the original resistor values may be a bit too tight, leaving too little headroom between the startup threshold and normal run situation.
Thanks anyway, my daughters PC keeps freezing and this could be a possible reason. I think if PG goes off, the PC should actually power down totally but you never know...
The root cause is bad ceramic caps of unknown value. So I added a resistor compensate.
High voltage side capacitor never fail, when they do its normally obvious. + they were smart and used a good brand.
Great video. Got a 5/6 year old CX600M and it has just started having the same exact symptoms. I really wonder what it is that loses accuracy so that this starts triggerring? Been perfect for so long... I was going to chuck it out but now I'll hit it up with a soldering iron and see if it can't go to a worthy home instead, thanks!
i have a cx600 that when i turn it on fan of the power supply tries to spin a micro second and then stops and nothing happens. could this be the same problem that you fixed>? im not very expert on electronics as you but im experienced at sodering.
That sounds like the same problem.
My CX600M just died, I'll give this a try.
excelent job , i have similiar psu corsair tx850w i checked all capacitors is ok, also replaced for test, all shotky diode is ok also replaced for test also, but when i short green wire with ground fan try to spin then stop i short optocupler and i saw 5v is ok ( 5.1v) 3.3v is ok (3.37) but 12 is too low 9.86v so psu shut down because pin 7 of ps229 detect low out voltage and shutdown but can find failure part i hope you give any hint to solve thanks in advance..
I have a CX 750. The PSU works fine, until I turn the PC off, then it will not turn on unless I either tug/twist on the wires coming from the PSU or tap/bang on the side of the PC/PSU case. I did some testing, but I think now I may have not properly understood how a PSU works. I checked for 5v on the green wire at the mobo 24 pin, and got 0v, but I'm now learning that is the PS on circuit. Perhaps I am supposed to be looking for 5v on the Purple 5v standby? I've had the PSU open and everything looked fine. I got this PSU from a friend who built a PC in 2015 and wound up not using this PSU for unknown reasons, she didn't even realize she had it. It appeared to be brand new in the box, I'm thinking it was doing exactly this and she just bought a new one and never RMAed it. Any help would be appreciated. Id like to be able to turn my PC off at times. Another weird thing that your symptoms made me think of, if I restart my PC the PSU never turns off, and the PC will restart, but it stays on the restarting screen for a long time, maybe like 10 minutes, before finally restarting. Thanks for any help anyone has top offer, I just don't have the money right now for a new PSU, I also need a new mobo, my Ethernet adapter got fried in a storm, but I'm pretty sure these are unrelated, I was having the problem with restarting the PC long before the Ethernet problem came along.
Eeeerm, this sound like a different problem.
If you say that moving the cable/hitting the PSU fixes the problem, then it sounds like a dry solder joint. You will need a look at the pcb with a magnifying glass.
If you completely remove the psu, you can short the green and back together. ( ua-cam.com/video/5FWXgQSokF4/v-deo.html ) That should power it on, so you can poke-and-prod the circuit board to narrow down the issue.
@@Matt47247523457 I will have to pull it apart and take it to work to look at it under a microscope. Inside it is a large PCB and a smaller PCB. I suppose I can just trace the purple and green wires and see where they go. Thanks for the tip, Ill have to try this one day. Is it the green wire that gives 5v to the mobo at all times?? Or the purple?? I'm pretty sure this is the circuit I'm having trouble with.
The purple is the 5v standby - always on.
The green is a very weak 5v - always on but designed to be shorted to ground/black for power on.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ATX#Power_supply
@@Matt47247523457 I should be able to see 5v on that green wire with a voltmeter, right?? I do know that when it wouldn't start it had 0 volts on the green wire with the PSU plugged in and switched on. I didn't ck the purple wire, but can.
yes you should see 5v - when it is disconnected from the motherboard.
thanks for this video, not much people the time to troubleshoot a PC psu.
very good!
You got another subscriber off the merit of this video. Well played.
thanks !! i have that problem on my cx600 !!
Bro, I want to ask, PSU Seasonic, if the switch on turns on immediately (without connecting the green and black wire), what should be checked? (PSU has been removed from the casing)
oh, I would follow the path back into the PSU to see check if there any damaged components / dry joints.
if there is ~5v on the green, that maybe a sign of a bad IC/transistor.
If its ~0v then its probably a passive component (like the pull up resistor) or a dry joint.
But it could be a 100 things without looking. I'm just guessing.
I got some NOX psu from a friend that said it fried his motherboard. I checked all voltages and it seemed fine, tryied it on a motherboard and damaged it somehow, now it doesnt boot because an error message appears while on POST.. As well as some crazy temperatures and voltage readings on BIOS....
Cpu over voltage!
Cpu fan error!
Chassis intrusion!
Fatal error!
System halted!
What could it be?
sorry for the late reply, but that could be anything... sorry
Good job! thanks for sharing
Quick question regarding your tutorial,you said you removed a capacitor between #1 PGI and #2 GND of the IC.
Now lets Suppose you did NOT remove that component and left it intact.
you then replace the 22K with 10K OR parallel a 21K resistor to the existing 22K
And thats all right that should fix it? by the way that is a 10K5 resistor? 5 is the percent? meaning 4 bands ? didn´t understand the number 5.
can you give me your email just in case my PCB is different than yours when i open it up?
I would ignore that capacitor... oh 10K5 = 10.5K
please can you help me I have a corsair cx600 source i do not turn on anymore the green cable with the black one and it does not turn on the fuse this good there is no short in the mosfet if there is voltage in the big capacitor there is no short in the diode bridge in the purple cable with the black cable if there is 5v voltage in the yellow there is not in the orange either and in the red the fan does not do anything either please help me
Your PSU sounds like the same problem as Giovane Sobrinho.
I did not have this issue with my psu.
Can you check if the main PWM IC is switching correctly?. I do not know what the chip is. But it is located on the left side of the board.
mine is different, 600W the chip is a
sitronix ST9S429-PG14, i wonder if the pins are the same as your IC
I just had a look online...
The ST9S429-PG14 maybe a rebrand of the Unisonic S3515.
www.unisonic.com.tw/english/datasheet/S3515.pdf
And they appear to be the same pinout/function.
But you will need to check the pinouts/volts, to be sure.
Thanks you for the video. I want to modify my Corsair CX500M in order to give 14 VDC - I need the electronic circuit diagram - or - Can you help me?
sorry, the circuit diagram does not exist
My quickest response is to adjust the opto-coupler feed back, e.g. add a resister to the LED side so it is not as bright.
Exact same problem with my CX600, Already ordered VS450, should have tried different PSU brand instead of Corsair
does it take motherboards and other hardware with it when it fails like the Bestec PSUs in HP and eMachines PCs.
For this particular problem is does not cause a Mobo failure., this problem is because its too sensitive to the voltage changes.
However I dont know the state of other peoples capactitors in there PSU (or other components).
Power supplyer only 4.90 volts on purple wire..what could be...????
Wish I knew anything about this explanation and how to fix mine sorry.
I have this psu, a corsair cx500. When I play a videogame wich require much PC resources, the Pc restarts at 5 or less minutes, depending the pc game. I set the speedfan tester and the voltages appear low. Its possible to repair the PSU ? Thanks in advance
idk, that could be the psu, or the cpu thermal contact, or the mother board caps, or ... anything.
i has checked caps, cpu, changed the cpu and gpu thermal paste, but those are normal...
@mitos meios ouch !
einherjer1ify if its anything like mitos meios problems. You'll need to check the voltages when its idle and when the cpu is @ 100%. Also monitor the output ripple on the power rails. If its over E.G. ~200mv than something in the PSU is going bad. And thats probably the caps?. But if they are OK? then "try" to see what the voltage is on chip's Pin1/PGI because if that fluctuates too much it will turn off the PSU * But it should not cause any lasting problems (I'm assuming)
But anyway... checks the voltages on the main power connector first.
Someone has warned me to NOT open the CPU to blow away the dust. Let it rest for a couple of hours. As there can be electricity in there? Is it dangerous? How would you go about it? I've seen people hit the power button when it's turned off to discharge.
If you really mean the CPU on the motherboard, there will be no power there when its switched off. However if you mean the PSU, then it might be best to wait a couple of hours. The big capacitors might give you a little shock.
Thanks. I meant the PSU :P Good to know. Hope it's ok to blow dust from there, when it's turned off.
Hit the power button on the computer while the psu is unplugged first. If you are going open a psu you should have a multimeter to measure any voltages before you touch anything
Hi there. A few years ago I start to repair this PSU and now I have time to finish the job, everything is OK now, voltages, etc. but few years ago I was removed the transistor FQ3 right in front of fan connector see this image -> imgur.com/p23k5Gt and now i can't remember where he is and what he is. Can someone help me with this? PSU is OK now but the fan didn't spin.
great tutorial ....
Hi, I need help on my PSU repair.
I have Cooler Master GX Bronze PSU that are no longer working on my PC no1... But its working on my old PC no2.
I did check the power flow with multimeter (pin test) and all the voltage is in right value.. its just when I installed it on my PC no1 its not even power up (ON).
my PC no1 is running smoothly with other power supply and its not my PC problem.
my Cooler Master was the power supply for PC no1 before it's shut off by itself.
so I'm reckon there's something wrong with it and I cant figure it out.
I really need expert help to locate the problem part of this PSU, any help will be much appreciated.
Thanks.
hmmm... whats the voltages when it is connected to both computers? including the "power on" and "power good" signals. Because 1 of them might be high enough for old PC no2 to work. But not enough for PC no1 to work.
If old PC no2 is really really old, it might be ignoring the "power good" pin completely.
thanks for your reply, I did not check what is the voltages when its connected to my old pentium 4 PC. I will check on both soon as I have time to do so. actually this Cooler Master has a symptom of sometime cant be turn on before its totally out as now. Thanks again.
by the way, the power good voltages (pin test) is about 5.3v.
So I have checked the power good again and record it on video, also have read about Power good values are often considered abnormal if detected lower than 100ms .. I dont have any timer to count the values but Im reckon this is lower than 100ms. www.dropbox.com/s/wx8zpl0nqwlr7ah/Power%20Good%20Pin%20Test.mp4?dl=0
Now.. I really got no idea where to start if that lower values is the problem.
I see what you mean.... this could be tricky...
At a glance, if that signal is high. then it should be all good. A
computer will turn on.
One method to test the 100ms detect could be..... add a resistor like
1K between the main +5v rail and the the power good pin, so you can fake
the power good signal. It would be best to completly remove the 'power
good' pin. But that would be hard.
Generaly what I'm saying it use a process of elimination....
However, i think you might need to check the +5v standy voltage too.
One question. When ever you power on the computer, does the fan &
light in the psu always come on? - because if that so... then I think
the PSU is OK and it might be a main atx conecctor problem?
Thanks great instructions, I soldered today 22k top of original smd. Future shows if this fix it or not. Curious why psu worked many years without problem and suddenly start fail. Or maybe it failed here and there, bud lately it was daily basis. :)
Yeah, I was wondering why it failed after X years. My best guess (based on the data-sheet) is the resistor divider was designed toooo close to the edge.
And after years of wearing out.. it was enough to tip the balance in the wrong direction.
Dude, is it still working properly? I am asking because i will do the same thing to my cx600.
It worked few months, then it got again unstable, bought new power supply year ago. :(@@coderhex1675
Hi, i have the same problem with my CX500, and i figured out that when you switch quickly on and off the power switch of the PSU, the PC turn on, but when i start to play a game that need a good amount of power, my pc shutdown, i don't know if your trick will fix that?
and also where can i find theses resistor? Thank You!
unfortunately not, my fix corrects the 'underpower' problem, not the 'overpower' one. They are similar but I dont know what the all the chip pin voltages are.
Techy Bits-n-Bobs okey thank you very much atleast i know that i need a new PSU !
to TWZ Zak and einherjer1ify . If you are going to replace your PSU's it would not hert to try change the resistor. Because it sounds like you have nothing to loose?
However is anyone able to check voltges, resistances and capacitance with a DMM?
You added a 22pF and a 140K resistor which i really don't know where to buy them, there's only lots, but tomorrow, i will check voltage of "Power Good" (already checked others 3.3v, 12v etc and capacitors)
edit : the "underpower" problem is not a big problem for me, because the little trick of switching quickly on and off work perfectly, but the "overpower" is very problematic
very good video!
When i try to start the PSU the fan starts and stop quickly, and pass no power, i try but i can't find the problem.
Sounds similar? to the issue I had. Did you check all the voltages on the IC ?
i try but i thing with poor accuracy only combnation that i find some voltages was pin 2 and 13 with 5.11v, sound similiar to you? talk me about your experience.
Well, at least the standy volts is working :)
at 07:30, all the voltages I measured was to Ground (pin 2). But pin 1 voltage is misleading. Because it only worked sometimes.
It would be a best to measure the voltages with the PSU disconnected from the PC, and connect Green & Black on the ATX connector (fake power on).
If the PSU does not stay on during this test. Then the problem is very different to this one and I can not help in the youtube comments :(
well, i connect Green & black on the atx connector and I measured the voltages at the connector and the only cable that has voltage is the purple with 5.11v.
In CI i measured pin 3 = 4,32v, pin 4 = 0,04v, pin 6 = 1,21v and pin 13 = 5,11v.
any nother pin have 0,0v.
oh dear... Pin 3 looks bad (because you do not have the 3.3v, 5v, 12v).
It looks like it is not switching anything (standby volts does not count), maybe the main PWM IC is damaged? (just guessing). I did not mention that in the video.
The opto-coupler might be damaged, but it has never happened to me.
unfortunately you will need to start from the Mains 230v side and work you way towards the transformer.
I did not examine that side of the PSU, so I do not know.
I think you will need to start checking the capacitors.
You have the warranty... Why open the psu.. You can change it
whats the fun in that :) ... sometimes (not this time) its quicker to repair it then wait to get it replaced.
Okey, I assemble my PC a year ago and its perfectly working but I realize something from few months and I take it lightly but least I decided to solve the problem, here it is , when I start my PC in morning its start well everything is well but if i shutdown my PC or if the electricity is goes for some reason and if I start it again it won't start it remain on but won't both up. I can hear the noise and everything is running but won't both up , and also I can see that my Hdd Led is not blinking, and then I shut down the PC by holding power button for 4 sec and I left it for like 15-20 min and again if I try then it will start but not everytime . in that case if I try again and again continuously it won't work. then i change the corcair cx 500 power supply to my old atx power supply 450 w and its working fine on that . the thing is I can't run my graphics card on it. MY Mobo is Gigabyte B75-hd3. so what to do now I'm totally confused with my power Supply :(
That is the exact same problem with my PSU. Then it got worse and worse.
+Techy Bits-n-Bobs, so what you did??
Yes, adding the resistor (red coloured) at 08:45 fixed it.
bro can you tell me if i continue useing that psu like that is that going to harm my motherboard or Graphics card? i'm not that big engineer + i broke warranty ..
If that is the "only" problem with the PSU. Then that fix will absolutely fine.
But if you do take it apart. I recommend you look at the all capacitors to see if they are damaged in any way:
www.google.co.uk/search?q=damaged+capacitors+motherboard&tbm=isch
Corsair design is much faulty .
Mate i 've been f*king with this all day and watched the first 2 minutes of the video and i just know it s the same problem... corsair cx400m ... gonna guess ... temp. sensor!
Where is 22k resistor ¿?
09:13
The problem is those cheap junk Chinese capacitors. They are designed to only work until the warranty expires. Those junk capacitors causes other components to fail as well as your motherboard
Hello. I have Power Supply Thermaltake 650W. All voltages are normal, but PG is no. Supervisor on chip PS229 datasheet www.techpowerup.com/articles/160/images/ps229.pdf
I have pin 1PGI - 1.17V, pin 14 PGO - 119mV. All other voltages correspond to the datasheet. Please help me. Where is PG?
"+Дмитрий Ляйком" I do not know the circuit diagram of the Thermaltake, so this will be a guess:
The PG on the ATX connector, should be the PGO on the chip.
Add another resistor in parallel - to resistor mentioned at 07:30. I mentioned a 140K resistor, but try a much smaller one. Until the voltage rises to about 2.5V+. Example 20K or 40K.
After the change, it should make the PGO output 5v (after the next power on)
+Techy Bits-n-Bobs I have module c2n.me/3y2eOyw.jpg
c2n.me/3y2jo7B.jpg
What resistance must be put in parallel? For R58?
'+Дмитрий Ляйком' If the top left pin is pin 1 of the chip. Unfortunately that is the wrong resistor. This 2K2 goes to Ground.
You will need to follow the 'though hole' which is also connected to pin 1. This will be connected to another resistor then diode then something else.
If you have found a circuit diagram that would be helpful.
+Techy Bits-n-Bobs with the back of the module to look for?
+Дмитрий Ляйком Follow the light green dot:
postimg.org/image/lcxaffofl/
daFuq, you have Ask in your menubar? O.o Did not know people used this crap voluntarily.
yep, my 10 year old pdf viewer is nice n quick
@@Matt47247523457 I remember back when I used windows, every time they tried to force this ask menubar on you with a download, sneakily hiding the opt out button after which it was a real pain to deinstall that malware. Well, guess they do legal stuff too then. Who knew.
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