Page 16 - Assembly Manual: "Slip the length of flat braid through the probe end and bend over as shown." The braid was not intended to be in contact with the aluminum tube. It exits through the black plastic cap - where the coax enters the probe. For more, please see Pictorial 6.
Really Nice Job Chris First Class Work !! Used To Repair Laminators Back in The Day Among Other Things Like Big Rexel Shredders For The Police Looking Forwaed To Your Next Adventure ..Regards mike.
I think I had saw a date code on the cap can of 1965 in your previous video. I've done several of these Chris and usually the can is still good. I agree with you that you should replace them anyway especially if you intend to use it on a regular basis. What I do with them is simply cut the can off at the base rim with an Xacto saw. Heat the can and pull out the guts with a cork screw. Your base and connections underneath are still in place. Drill some holes through the base and install new caps being careful of the markings for the values underneath. Reinstall the empty can above using supper glue.
Doug McArtin I was looking for the date well spotted. I am getting a little mains hum but I think it’s probably normal. If you get chance would you take a AC reading from the front B+ socket to the probe shield . I’m getting 2 volt AC ripple on top of 140 DCv. Not sure on the mains capacitor I think I will see how I get on with using it and see how it goes. I’m already on to the next electrical distraction. Thanks for watching Regards chris
Defpom's Electronics & Repair I tried that but couldn’t get it tight enough. I think one of those cable tie guns may have done a good job. I will make a mechanical cable clamp in the next 30 year or more likely just not bother etc.
Great job restoring this Heathkit IT-12! The magic eye tube should be set where it opens and closes at the 6 o'clock position. Very informative repair techniques by the way!
Thanks for watching and comments. I have purposely turned the tube around slightly now as the eye opening is not visible with the eye opening at the 6 o’clock position, that’s as I look down on the unit from is position below me on the bench. Don’t get me wrong I do not dislike magic eyes I have just never witnessed one that is useful I think it’s always been form above functions but that could be a good enough reason etc. Thanks for watching band comments regards Chris.
I have one of these Heathkit IT-12. Your ground braid is supposed to exit out of the back black cap on your probe- not next to the aluminum case. check owners/building manual.
Just looking at some pictures online I see you are correct. The one I have must have been wrongly assembled by the previous owner as I just put it back together as I found it. Thanks for the information.
I have an older EICO brand signal tracer from the 1950s, it has a larger front panel, and correspondingly larger cabinet, and chassis, so it's easier to work on then that IT-12. I don't know if you could go by the date of that twist lock electrolytic can to date the unit, some of those kit companies would use surplus parts in their kits. However the style of the RCA logo on two of the tubes would place those around 1968/69 or newer since that was when those "machine/computer" style letters replaced the old lightning bolt logo that they had been using since the mid 1920s. I don't really like those plastic strain relief glans, they have a habit of injuring the power cord as they clamp it down with some sharp bends inside, I've even seen cords that broke right outside the glans. When I have to replace a cord where one of those is used I normally take it out and replace it with a rubber grommet. The way I get them out is by pressing the two section together with a pair of pliers from the rear, and popping it out the front. I was thinking that if one stripped one of those three conductor cables back far enough you could knot the wires together to stop it from pulling out if the sleeve is too stiff. There used to be a knot known as an "Underwriters" knot, where you make a pair of loops with the wires, and slip one wire through the loop formed in the other wire, and if you pulled on the cord the knot would get tighter. Something like that on the other side of a fiber, fish paper, or plastic washer would work.
OlegKostoglatov I intend to fit a mechanical clamp or stuffing gland and also an internal fuse but want to try it out a bit first. It’s fused via the circuit breakers in the transformer power supply at the moment and I have a loop and cable tie securing the cable. I want to compare it with my velleman kit signal tracer. A lot to be said for battery operated gear in the workshop etc.
Sorry I forgot to tell you that is a lot easier to work on if you unscrew the output transformer from the bracket. The eye tube should be oriented so that the eye is on the bottom.
Doug McArtin that’s a good idea on the transformer I will have to do that if I install an internal fuse. I think I have put the window at the top as I cannot see it the other way around from it’s position on the bench and height of my chair etc. The metal enclosure runs quite warm bat the top I think my mains supply is a bit high. Thanks for watching Regards chris
Defpom's Electronics & Repair yes I think I will put a fuse between the tag strip and mains switch. Be interesting to see you signal tracer maybe you could use it on one of the CB repair videos.
ojnoj. Irish Vintage TV and Radio Do you think that you can buy quality croc clips anymore. I kins of doubt it these days! Thanks for watching regards. Chris
It's the weirdest thing, the only fused plugs I've seen in the states are on (drumroll) Christmas lights. And once, a fan? There are plenty of built-in fuses in devices, but if everything's unfused, they're usually plugged into 15A 120V circuits, so eh... the breaker'll trip!
Jarrett Does Stuff, very occasionally. It is very odd i think. The original mains cable had a surprisingly large CSA I assume to take a 15 amp fault current. But the internal wiring and transformer is very thin wire and no fuse. I will install a fuse probably.
They used to have fused plugs available for TV sets, two fuses actually. There is some company whom sells electric fence parts that markets a copy of such plugs. As for the 125 volt 15 amp breakers it doesn't take much to make them trip, I've seen them go just by plugging a heater and a tea kettle in at the same time.
Having EFI grounded power outlets wheneversensitive or hazardous operating conditions (near water such as sinks or outdoor outlets) and effective circuit breakers in the power supply (fuse) box serves us quite well as far as overload protection. A fuse in the equipment, itself is fairly limited something like this device would be more likely today. 😉 There are one and two part strain reliefs readily available on line as well as in our service centers and home supply stores, I'm not sure of how it is there. You acquired a grommet, was a proper strain relief not offered from whomever you acquired the power cable? (Just curious, not judging 😉). I do actually like your idea of a clamp or restrictive piece inside to create a strain relief, could save you from having to enlarge the cable hole to facilitate the extra size of a single piece relief. You can add a mounting for a fuse with just a little epoxy compound like JB weld, etc. and not have any protrusions interfering with cases, drilling holes, etc.. Just a thought.
thanks for the part 2. like how you mcgvyered the ground strap for the probe. also learned how you spray de oxit on a lot on connections, like that habit. did you do a follow up on using this tracer? john
Hello John . No sadly I didn’t do a follow up. I have a little battery signal tracer a mainly use I think it’s a bit easier than messing with all the plugs and wires on the mains unit and because it’s all plastic less chances of grounding loop issues. The heathkit is a lot more sensitive than my modern battery tracer. For any valve radio I always give the potentiometers and switches a clean. It’s just easier to start the repair with clean switches etc. Thanks for watching and nice comments regards Chris
The first thing I did after getting one of these (apart fro earthing it) was to buy spare valves for it..I have had my unit for about 10 years and haven't used the spare valves yet, although I probably should do what you did in this video and replace some caps.
Defpom's Electronics & Repair you probably know this but valves are incredibly robust out of perhaps a hundred valve sets I have repaired over the years I have replaced 2 or 3 valves in total. Check the voltage across the cathode bypass resistors that will give you an idea if the plate correct is excessive. Thanks for watching and comments best regards Chris.
David Roberts Thanks David not had chance to play with it yet. I will make a video on using it but thing of matching it against a modern kit signal tracer. Regards Chris
Boa tarde, muito bom trabalho! Não seria melhor também isolar a sonda metálica com uma manga termorectatil? Eu tenho um aparelho destes mas para 220v vou fazer o mesmo mudar o cabo com fio terra e aplicar um porta fusível e talvez isolar com manga termorectatil a sonda
thats nice I got one of those sheets too and I laminated mine too I think I do the same with capacitors I tend to buy them and forget what I bought them for then they get left in the jiffy bags they came in
that tool might work better on the inside of the panel as used to use my wire stripper pliers to remove those glands I have a little drawer full of them that I have removed from equipment
@@allthegearnoidea6752 I think the tool is more for fitting them than taking them off they are a bit of a pain I must have at least 50 of the little blighters in that drawer !
yes Chris makes good videos, I am surprised his channel isn't growing faster, it seems our electronics repair channels are not favoured by youtube... mine was doing well until earlier this year, now its stagnating.
Hugo B. Thanks for watching Hugo and nice comments. It is strange how the subscription rates work. There is however a lot of people out there making great and polished content. I know I could make videos on certain subjects that would get better ratings but at the end of the day I’m doing this for my own entertainment. However having said that I enjoy engaging with my subscribers band have made some great and interesting friends here. It’s also surprising give the number of subscribers only a tiny minority leave comments and its normal the same subscribers I have had from day one etc. Anyway thanks for watching and great comments regards Chris
Defpom's Electronics & Repair I wonder. There such a lot of interesting content out there I struggle to get through it all myself. Also some people set the bar very high I just switched the camera on a talk. I think people want more polished content these days. I would of course want more subscribers as it nice to get positive feedback etc but it’s still manageable right now.
Your videos, and especially these signal tracer vids are a blast! I've been playing elcecric guitar through an Eico 147A, stock except for the 4" 30 watt Eminence speaker replacement for the original 1.5 watt speaker. Works like a champ, and the schematic looks similar to a Fender 5f1. This video is awesome! BTW the "test speaker" jack's run a 12" Alnico for some base notes.
Full Wave Recked I have a few electric guitars but no longer have a amplifier so I will have to give that a try good idea. Thanks for watching band comments regards Chris
Excellent work, Chris. Your attention to detail is inspiring. I'm looking forward to the test of this unit - it looks to me as if the magic eye circuit may have a problem, I would think the eye would be "open" with no signal and "close" depending on signal strength. Or is it the other way 'round? Here in the states residential branch circuits are either 15 or 20 amps, depending on wire size (14 or 12 AWG respectively) Installed wiring follows one set of sizing rules, portable cords have another set and appliance internal wiring a third set. You would be amazed (or shocked) to see the inside of one of our electric clothes dryers which typically operate on 220 VAC and are supplied by a 30 amp (two pole) circuit breaker. Regards, David
David V Hello David thanks for watching and comments. The magic eye is very disappointing but it appear to be the same on other people UA-cam restorations. It appears to open about a quarter then closes up as the signal level is increased. I think it’s pointless really but probably a feature back in the day. Regards Chris
I was wondering how you were going to stop the mains cable pulling out, my evil mind said to use a cable tie on the inside, or hot glue is your frend :-D Taking the plastic bar from a uk mains plug and drilling two holes in the chassis for the screws would also be an option. My old mate had a valve t.v and it had a problem with the audio output valve, yep it was a leaking grid capacitor, dam evil caps. Dam crock clip cables, the wire is far too thin and yes crap crimping, i solder them like you do. Nice earth lead on the probe, fancy clear tube and clip, fancy bugger :-D Ooops waffle mode. Smashing video chris, thankyou :-D
Oh no don't die, i would mis leaving daft comments to torture you with my silly ideas :-) 30 years seems about right for my speed of getting things done ;-D
Très bonne restauration ! Cet appareil , est mieux que le K 7000 de Velleman ? Ou moins bien ? Merci de votre réponse . Very good restoration ! Is this device better than the Velleman K 7000 ? Or worse ? Thank you for your reply .
Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse . J'en connais un d'occasion . Je crois que je vais l'acheter ! Thank you very much for your answer . I know a used one. I think I will buy it !
Fantastic job Chris! I'm like you, would have touched the tip without realizing it was hot...good warning...I wont if I ever get one of these! :) Looking forward to P3, use your best American accent. ~Jack, VEG
I dont think i can do an American accent LOL. I see you have been working on your signal tracer kit. You should pick one of thease heathkits up it will be a good restoration project for you and they work well and are cheap available etc. Thanks for watching best regards Chris
Sounds like you've moved on to other things by now but if you need it you need it send me an email at k2jj@arrl.net and I'll send you a pic of how I did the did the filter caps, fuse, safety caps across the line etc. Good I opened it up because I forgot to put the can back on the the old base. Now where is it?
Really Nice Job Chris First Class Work !! Used To Repair Laminators Back in The Day Among Other Things Like Big Rexel Shredders For The Police Looking Forwaed To Your Next Adventure ..Regards mike.
Page 16 - Assembly Manual: "Slip the length of flat braid through the probe end and bend over as shown." The braid was not intended to be in contact with the aluminum tube. It exits through the black plastic cap - where the coax enters the probe. For more, please see Pictorial 6.
Really Nice Job Chris First Class Work !! Used To Repair Laminators Back in The Day Among Other Things Like Big Rexel Shredders For The Police Looking Forwaed To Your Next Adventure ..Regards mike.
Looks like all your comments are being hidden Mike sorry. Best regards Chris
great video .
I think I had saw a date code on the cap can of 1965 in your previous video. I've done several of these Chris and usually the can is still good. I agree with you that you should replace them anyway especially if you intend to use it on a regular basis. What I do with them is simply cut the can off at the base rim with an Xacto saw. Heat the can and pull out the guts with a cork screw. Your base and connections underneath are still in place. Drill some holes through the base and install new caps being careful of the markings for the values underneath. Reinstall the empty can above using supper glue.
Doug McArtin I was looking for the date well spotted. I am getting a little mains hum but I think it’s probably normal. If you get chance would you take a AC reading from the front B+ socket to the probe shield . I’m getting 2 volt AC ripple on top of 140 DCv. Not sure on the mains capacitor I think I will see how I get on with using it and see how it goes. I’m already on to the next electrical distraction. Thanks for watching Regards chris
A small amount of hum is normal for these. I'.m seeing about 1.4 VAC between the probe shield and B+ socket.
@@dougmcartin3881 Thanks Doug I am at 2 volts but close enough. I will keep an eye on it see if starts to increase. So it is probabaly OK for now.
The manual is dated 1962.
Defpom's Electronics & Repair Thanks Scott that sounds about right.
I stick a cable tie around the cables to stop them pulling out from the glands.
Defpom's Electronics & Repair I tried that but couldn’t get it tight enough. I think one of those cable tie guns may have done a good job. I will make a mechanical cable clamp in the next 30 year or more likely just not bother etc.
I put a cable tie around my glans, now what?.
Average Joe That’s doesn’t surprise me !
Desoldering braid can be used to replace the original.
Defpom's Electronics & Repair I bid consider that but wasn’t sure about the flux they are loaded with. I used the screen of a old bit of coax cable.
At 24:45, if you have any, you could use a sturdy zip tie on the inside as a stop-gap measure until you find a permanent one. Cheers.
A very satisfying tinkering sorta job, Nice.
Average Joe It help pass a few wet days here. Thanks for watching and comments regards Chris
Great job restoring this Heathkit IT-12! The magic eye tube should be set where it opens and closes at the 6 o'clock position. Very informative repair techniques by the way!
Thanks for watching and comments. I have purposely turned the tube around slightly now as the eye opening is not visible with the eye opening at the 6 o’clock position, that’s as I look down on the unit from is position below me on the bench. Don’t get me wrong I do not dislike magic eyes I have just never witnessed one that is useful I think it’s always been form above functions but that could be a good enough reason etc. Thanks for watching band comments regards Chris.
Another good video Chris. And it isn't just you that has take an idiot to work days either... I have done it too many times myself!
George Christofi It was disproportionately annoying for its Size LOL. Thanks regards chris.
I have one of these Heathkit IT-12. Your ground braid is supposed to exit out of the back black cap on your probe- not next to the aluminum case. check owners/building manual.
Just looking at some pictures online I see you are correct. The one I have must have been wrongly assembled by the previous owner as I just put it back together as I found it. Thanks for the information.
I have an older EICO brand signal tracer from the 1950s, it has a larger front panel, and correspondingly larger cabinet, and chassis, so it's easier to work on then that IT-12. I don't know if you could go by the date of that twist lock electrolytic can to date the unit, some of those kit companies would use surplus parts in their kits. However the style of the RCA logo on two of the tubes would place those around 1968/69 or newer since that was when those "machine/computer" style letters replaced the old lightning bolt logo that they had been using since the mid 1920s.
I don't really like those plastic strain relief glans, they have a habit of injuring the power cord as they clamp it down with some sharp bends inside, I've even seen cords that broke right outside the glans. When I have to replace a cord where one of those is used I normally take it out and replace it with a rubber grommet. The way I get them out is by pressing the two section together with a pair of pliers from the rear, and popping it out the front.
I was thinking that if one stripped one of those three conductor cables back far enough you could knot the wires together to stop it from pulling out if the sleeve is too stiff. There used to be a knot known as an "Underwriters" knot, where you make a pair of loops with the wires, and slip one wire through the loop formed in the other wire, and if you pulled on the cord the knot would get tighter. Something like that on the other side of a fiber, fish paper, or plastic washer would work.
OlegKostoglatov I intend to fit a mechanical clamp or stuffing gland and also an internal fuse but want to try it out a bit first. It’s fused via the circuit breakers in the transformer power supply at the moment and I have a loop and cable tie securing the cable. I want to compare it with my velleman kit signal tracer. A lot to be said for battery operated gear in the workshop etc.
Oh I will look for a fused plug that would make things easier Thanks
Sorry I forgot to tell you that is a lot easier to work on if you unscrew the output transformer from the bracket. The eye tube should be oriented so that the eye is on the bottom.
Doug McArtin that’s a good idea on the transformer I will have to do that if I install an internal fuse. I think I have put the window at the top as I cannot see it the other way around from it’s position on the bench and height of my chair etc. The metal enclosure runs quite warm bat the top I think my mains supply is a bit high. Thanks for watching Regards chris
Fuses? We don't need no stinking fuses. (Nudge nudge wink wink)
Danish Native quite right they are just an annoying point of failure!
You could put an inline fuse holder, wire lead attachment.
Defpom's Electronics & Repair yes I think I will put a fuse between the tag strip and mains switch. Be interesting to see you signal tracer maybe you could use it on one of the CB repair videos.
I got a set of those croc leads from Maplins years ago, nothing but trouble with them till like you discovered they weren't soldered.
ojnoj. Irish Vintage TV and Radio Do you think that you can buy quality croc clips anymore. I kins of doubt it these days! Thanks for watching regards. Chris
It's the weirdest thing, the only fused plugs I've seen in the states are on (drumroll) Christmas lights. And once, a fan?
There are plenty of built-in fuses in devices, but if everything's unfused, they're usually plugged into 15A 120V circuits, so eh... the breaker'll trip!
Jarrett Does Stuff, very occasionally. It is very odd i think. The original mains cable had a surprisingly large CSA I assume to take a 15 amp fault current. But the internal wiring and transformer is very thin wire and no fuse. I will install a fuse probably.
They used to have fused plugs available for TV sets, two fuses actually. There is some company whom sells electric fence parts that markets a copy of such plugs. As for the 125 volt 15 amp breakers it doesn't take much to make them trip, I've seen them go just by plugging a heater and a tea kettle in at the same time.
Having EFI grounded power outlets wheneversensitive or hazardous operating conditions (near water such as sinks or outdoor outlets) and effective circuit breakers in the power supply (fuse) box serves us quite well as far as overload protection. A fuse in the equipment, itself is fairly limited something like this device would be more likely today. 😉 There are one and two part strain reliefs readily available on line as well as in our service centers and home supply stores, I'm not sure of how it is there. You acquired a grommet, was a proper strain relief not offered from whomever you acquired the power cable? (Just curious, not judging 😉). I do actually like your idea of a clamp or restrictive piece inside to create a strain relief, could save you from having to enlarge the cable hole to facilitate the extra size of a single piece relief.
You can add a mounting for a fuse with just a little epoxy compound like JB weld, etc. and not have any protrusions interfering with cases, drilling holes, etc.. Just a thought.
thanks for the part 2.
like how you mcgvyered the ground strap for the probe.
also learned how you spray de oxit on a lot on connections, like that habit.
did you do a follow up on using this tracer?
john
Hello John . No sadly I didn’t do a follow up. I have a little battery signal tracer a mainly use I think it’s a bit easier than messing with all the plugs and wires on the mains unit and because it’s all plastic less chances of grounding loop issues. The heathkit is a lot more sensitive than my modern battery tracer. For any valve radio I always give the potentiometers and switches a clean. It’s just easier to start the repair with clean switches etc. Thanks for watching and nice comments regards Chris
The first thing I did after getting one of these (apart fro earthing it) was to buy spare valves for it..I have had my unit for about 10 years and haven't used the spare valves yet, although I probably should do what you did in this video and replace some caps.
Defpom's Electronics & Repair you probably know this but valves are incredibly robust out of perhaps a hundred valve sets I have repaired over the years I have replaced 2 or 3 valves in total. Check the voltage across the cathode bypass resistors that will give you an idea if the plate correct is excessive. Thanks for watching and comments best regards Chris.
...and now for the testing.....
Lovely Job Chris just waiting for the testing now
David Roberts Thanks David not had chance to play with it yet. I will make a video on using it but thing of matching it against a modern kit signal tracer. Regards Chris
Boa tarde, muito bom trabalho! Não seria melhor também isolar a sonda metálica com uma manga termorectatil?
Eu tenho um aparelho destes mas para 220v vou fazer o mesmo mudar o cabo com fio terra e aplicar um porta fusível e talvez isolar com manga termorectatil a sonda
thats nice I got one of those sheets too and I laminated mine too I think I do the same with capacitors I tend to buy them and forget what I bought them for then they get left in the jiffy bags they came in
thehappylittlefox aka benji I have drawers full of components some must have been there 30 years I really need to sort them out one winter’s evening.
@@allthegearnoidea6752 same here Chris !
that tool might work better on the inside of the panel as used to use my wire stripper pliers to remove those glands I have a little drawer full of them that I have removed from equipment
thehappylittlefox aka benji yes that may be correct they definitely weren’t coming off the way I tried it.
@@allthegearnoidea6752 I think the tool is more for fitting them than taking them off they are a bit of a pain I must have at least 50 of the little blighters in that drawer !
what a shame. so few subscribers and views yet great content, makes me not want to upload anything anymore into this platform
I agree Hugo, but we have to keep going. Keep uploading Hugo. 👍
yes Chris makes good videos, I am surprised his channel isn't growing faster, it seems our electronics repair channels are not favoured by youtube... mine was doing well until earlier this year, now its stagnating.
Relax chaps, I gave you all a subscription. 🙂
Hugo B. Thanks for watching Hugo and nice comments. It is strange how the subscription rates work. There is however a lot of people out there making great and polished content. I know I could make videos on certain subjects that would get better ratings but at the end of the day I’m doing this for my own entertainment. However having said that I enjoy engaging with my subscribers band have made some great and interesting friends here. It’s also surprising give the number of subscribers only a tiny minority leave comments and its normal the same subscribers I have had from day one etc. Anyway thanks for watching and great comments regards Chris
Defpom's Electronics & Repair I wonder. There such a lot of interesting content out there I struggle to get through it all myself. Also some people set the bar very high I just switched the camera on a talk. I think people want more polished content these days. I would of course want more subscribers as it nice to get positive feedback etc but it’s still manageable right now.
Your videos, and especially these signal tracer vids are a blast! I've been playing elcecric guitar through an Eico 147A, stock except for the 4" 30 watt Eminence speaker replacement for the original 1.5 watt speaker. Works like a champ, and the schematic looks similar to a Fender 5f1. This video is awesome! BTW the "test speaker" jack's run a 12" Alnico for some base notes.
Full Wave Recked I have a few electric guitars but no longer have a amplifier so I will have to give that a try good idea. Thanks for watching band comments regards Chris
Excellent work, Chris. Your attention to detail is inspiring. I'm looking forward to the test of this unit - it looks to me as if the magic eye circuit may have a problem, I would think the eye would be "open" with no signal and "close" depending on signal strength. Or is it the other way 'round? Here in the states residential branch circuits are either 15 or 20 amps, depending on wire size (14 or 12 AWG respectively) Installed wiring follows one set of sizing rules, portable cords have another set and appliance internal wiring a third set. You would be amazed (or shocked) to see the inside of one of our electric clothes dryers which typically operate on 220 VAC and are supplied by a 30 amp (two pole) circuit breaker. Regards, David
David V Hello David thanks for watching and comments. The magic eye is very disappointing but it appear to be the same on other people UA-cam restorations. It appears to open about a quarter then closes up as the signal level is increased. I think it’s pointless really but probably a feature back in the day. Regards Chris
I was wondering how you were going to stop the mains cable pulling out, my evil mind said to use a cable tie on the inside, or hot glue is your frend :-D
Taking the plastic bar from a uk mains plug and drilling two holes in the chassis for the screws would also be an option.
My old mate had a valve t.v and it had a problem with the audio output valve, yep it was a leaking grid capacitor, dam evil caps.
Dam crock clip cables, the wire is far too thin and yes crap crimping, i solder them like you do.
Nice earth lead on the probe, fancy clear tube and clip, fancy bugger :-D
Ooops waffle mode.
Smashing video chris, thankyou :-D
zx8401ztv I will make a mechanical clamp bar in the next 30 years probably, but I may just die before getting around to a job like that etc etc.
Oh no don't die, i would mis leaving daft comments to torture you with my silly ideas :-)
30 years seems about right for my speed of getting things done ;-D
zx8401ztv onwards and upwards. I’m like a magpie looking for the nest shiny think too restore. Get bored with my old toys Very quickly.
Très bonne restauration !
Cet appareil , est mieux que le K 7000 de Velleman ?
Ou moins bien ? Merci de votre réponse .
Very good restoration !
Is this device better than the Velleman K 7000 ?
Or worse ? Thank you for your reply .
Georges MILLION Yes it is much higher Impedance than the Velleman so it is much better for fault findings in RF circuits.
Merci beaucoup pour votre réponse .
J'en connais un d'occasion .
Je crois que je vais l'acheter !
Thank you very much for your answer .
I know a used one.
I think I will buy it !
Fantastic job Chris! I'm like you, would have touched the tip without realizing it was hot...good warning...I wont if I ever get one of these! :) Looking forward to P3, use your best American accent. ~Jack, VEG
I dont think i can do an American accent LOL. I see you have been working on your signal tracer kit. You should pick one of thease heathkits up it will be a good restoration project for you and they work well and are cheap available etc. Thanks for watching best regards Chris
Sounds like you've moved on to other things by now but if you need it you need it send me an email at k2jj@arrl.net and I'll send you a pic of how I did the did the filter caps, fuse, safety caps across the line etc. Good I opened it up because I forgot to put the can back on the the old base. Now where is it?
Really Nice Job Chris First Class Work !! Used To Repair Laminators Back in The Day Among Other Things Like Big Rexel Shredders For The Police Looking Forwaed To Your Next Adventure ..Regards mike.
raceingdemon6464 Thanks Mike I do enjoy laminated stuff it always looks more official somehow? Thanks for watching regards Chris