Congrats on the house! New, clean, dry shed to take it to the next level. I don't know what your winter racing season looks like, but it must be fishing season here again. All my YT ads have switched to boats... reminding me there are worse money pits out there to be had. Once you get over that 500# tq, only straight cut gears seem to do for most imports. It's painful to buy those gear sets, but you're clearly there. Hearing that thing shred that gear is the testament to how much power you're making. I went through $9,000 worth of transmissions in my GSX before I found the right combo. Each one was at least $3k. If it's any consolation, my Hyundai hates me, too. It spent the past 2 weekends pissing all over me, rejecting all of my fixes despite all the money, time and attention I give it. Sometimes just getting the car to accept its own greatness is the hardest part of mentoring it.
Cheers Jafro. Been loving your latest vids. Yeah multiply your 3k ish x 3 and that's probably the minimum spend for something suitable. At least I know the surprisingly high torque numbers on the dyno weren't am anomaly. I'm thinking CD009.
Good to see you back, congrats on the house. gutted about the box :( what diff are you running? could you change the ratio to get taller forth and use only four gears?
Certainly isn't. Not with 2.5L and a narrow, high rpm power band. Not for most race or sport/street applications anyway. Hard enough finding the balance with the OEM 5speed when making any more than 20-30% above factory power levels. Just listen to the fueling in Tangles rig... If you need to be in the 3500-4300 rpm range, and in less than optimal conditions, you're in for a looong, stressful day at the office... The new G-series range from Garrett are interesting though... We might finally see some development in the sport street & occasional circuit racing RB build scene. Currently it seems you be content with 400-450hp (and even that seems a compromise) or commit to just the one application and make a biiig step up with the car and chase the 650-800hp range. Most 500hp builds I've seen are pretty much average at everything. Good for doing skids or just playing around for giggles, but not very street able and working at its limits on most National/International level circuits. Plus the chassis development required for effectively harnessing 500hp is more towards the 'race' end of the spectrum, which ultimately makes your car a ticking defect-notice time bomb, and trying to get away with anything less is simply wasting the $$ spent on achieving that additional 50-100hp.... So 350-450hp is the ideal target it seems if you plan to retain any street use with the car and avoid the massive step up if committing to higher power goals. And 400-450 HP in a 2wd RB puts you in a slightly difficult pocket, gearing wise. Ya have to have it dialled in even with a 5 speed otherwise your just going to run into big lag issues most of the time.
Cheers on the house mate, hard work paid off those 9 months. It's a really nicely sized shed. Can't believe it was a rebuild box too. You also reminded me that 3rd is fragile which I need to keep in mind. Been too excited getting the car back together and running last month so I think I've been careless. Best of luck on the search, either another 25det trans or another. Sucks the US market is starting to suck up your local cheaper parts :(
You should enter the Motorsports Australia Targa Championship. The GBR round in Cairns FNQ has a stage that is held on the Gillies Range. 260odd corners in a 19km stretch of road that has an 800m climb in elevation. Epic. The only draw back is the open class is really the only one worth entering and has 'qualifier' events which must be entered/completed beforehand. *Edit: the championship consists of only 3 rounds, one of which is the infamous Tassie Targa. And there aren't that many serious championship contenders from what I saw from the Cairns round.
@@tangles01 Even just experiencing the Gillies Range on any normal day is a treat. Hire yourself an MX5 or something agile for a few days, organise a set of rims that will suit the OEM cars stance and invest in a set of sticky tyres. If you've driven it before you'll know what I'm talking about but if you haven't, it's definitely a road that should be on any serious motoring enthusiasts bucket list... Just gotta try catch it when the conditions are right. 👍 And what was the deal with your tyres? They didn't really seem up to the task. Was the track temp off the richter or something? Or just limited for choice in the class you were in? Or just using what you had at your disposal at the time...
@@muntee33 they tyres were fine, just over pressured started 26psi cold and were 40psi after the 1st session when up to temp. They were dropped to 28 hot the 2nd session was going to be the test. The grip was there the gearbox wasn't.
@@tangles01 But they just radial sport tyres for the street? They weren't semi or full slick no? And it much of a hassle to run Nitrogen? I do on bikes, but obviously a bike is much easier/cheaper to do, and maintain. Edit: cause yea, they seemed hard/hot/old. Or roll centre/suspension geometry/alignment not overly concentrated on outright grip and more so for stability and/or longevity. What sort of wear were U getting, ball, hot/cold tears, feathers, etc etc. I could be wrong (and likely am) but just seemed to break traction slightly easily when car is bit unsettled and they take their sweet arse time to regain traction. But as you said, they obviously running hot and over inflating... Shame about the breakage but ay, it's all part of the journey... Build it, punish it, break it, make it stronger. And repeat haha. But yea, it gets expensive and frustrating when you're not racing as a means to alleviate a degree of your businesses tax problems... I've tried to find a 'cheap' way to enter racing through karts and road racing bikes, none are cheap, and/or hassle free. Tits n wheels my friend....
So where to from here? PPG? OSG? T56? C009? I'm only asking cause my 33GTSt needs some love an I was considering the PPG gearset. But it's exxy and I don't know anyone who has run it. Congrats on the house👍
What about a 350z box with a hybrid adaptor then you can still retain your rb clutch and fly wheel just have to get 12 mm milled off the face of the box and it’s not to dear for the adapter plate about 600 and hybrid is from nz so shouldn’t be long of a wait
@@tangles01 would definitely go cd009 or t56 or tr6060. rb boxes are usually fairly strong ours has lasted a solid 5 years of drifting abuse at 430hp If you have the money and wanna upgrade you might as well just do it now that it's rooted otherwise there's a rb25det gearbox up on facebook for like $2500 at the gold coast that would be way cheaper. My t56 conversion on my jzx100 will cost me 4k plus the 2.5k I spent on the gearbox and that's still not including a tailshaft.
@@cuntustheshitposterthethir8310 the idea was to abuse this box for a bit and when suitable go to a getrag 6 speed dog. But this sudden failure means I need to rethink. I'm not in a position to drop 25k to keep going right away. But if im swapping boxes 6 speed is preferred which is where the cd009 come in.
@@tangles01 Plus adapted, plus new clutch/flywheel, plus new mounts, plus new tailshaft (?), plus balancing new tail shaft, plus rejigging uni angle on diff, plus, shifter adaptor/possibly cutting tunnel, plus reconfiguring and signal outputs from transmission, plus engineering inspection/compliance costs..... Cd009 seems to be the better long term, one time route. But short term cost wise... If the box isn't rooted, just make whatever broke stronger... Still expensive as eventually the cost of a cd009 swap is additional to repairs now, but the $$ is only one factor. The time and hassle of such a task has to be considered too. If the time is not right for that sorta project, it isn't going to be a fun n enjoyable experience whatsoever.
@@skylinethings it's really loose there because the tyre starting pressure is too high. I like to set the pressures hot so 26psi cold they end up around 40 then I chase around 28. Each tyre gets a different temp load and therefore pressure as the day goes on. Also I didn't have a chance to set the damper properly just set it even front to rear. Been a while since I was at qr so just set it neutral was planning to adjust after 2 or 3 sessions.
@@skylinethings watch the hillclimb vid. I prefer a slightly tail car but you will see when driven properly with correct pressures and damper set up its way more stable than this session.
Congrats on the new house bro good to see you back
Appreciate it
Congrats on the house! New, clean, dry shed to take it to the next level. I don't know what your winter racing season looks like, but it must be fishing season here again. All my YT ads have switched to boats... reminding me there are worse money pits out there to be had. Once you get over that 500# tq, only straight cut gears seem to do for most imports. It's painful to buy those gear sets, but you're clearly there. Hearing that thing shred that gear is the testament to how much power you're making. I went through $9,000 worth of transmissions in my GSX before I found the right combo. Each one was at least $3k. If it's any consolation, my Hyundai hates me, too. It spent the past 2 weekends pissing all over me, rejecting all of my fixes despite all the money, time and attention I give it. Sometimes just getting the car to accept its own greatness is the hardest part of mentoring it.
Cheers Jafro. Been loving your latest vids. Yeah multiply your 3k ish x 3 and that's probably the minimum spend for something suitable. At least I know the surprisingly high torque numbers on the dyno weren't am anomaly. I'm thinking CD009.
Love you Jafro, your videos are a fantastic guide for all of us. keep them up!
Good to see you back, congrats on the house. gutted about the box :( what diff are you running? could you change the ratio to get taller forth and use only four gears?
Nah 4 speed is not the way
Certainly isn't.
Not with 2.5L and a narrow, high rpm power band. Not for most race or sport/street applications anyway. Hard enough finding the balance with the OEM 5speed when making any more than 20-30% above factory power levels. Just listen to the fueling in Tangles rig...
If you need to be in the 3500-4300 rpm range, and in less than optimal conditions, you're in for a looong, stressful day at the office...
The new G-series range from Garrett are interesting though...
We might finally see some development in the sport street & occasional circuit racing RB build scene. Currently it seems you be content with 400-450hp (and even that seems a compromise) or commit to just the one application and make a biiig step up with the car and chase the 650-800hp range.
Most 500hp builds I've seen are pretty much average at everything. Good for doing skids or just playing around for giggles, but not very street able and working at its limits on most National/International level circuits.
Plus the chassis development required for effectively harnessing 500hp is more towards the 'race' end of the spectrum, which ultimately makes your car a ticking defect-notice time bomb, and trying to get away with anything less is simply wasting the $$ spent on achieving that additional 50-100hp....
So 350-450hp is the ideal target it seems if you plan to retain any street use with the car and avoid the massive step up if committing to higher power goals.
And 400-450 HP in a 2wd RB puts you in a slightly difficult pocket, gearing wise. Ya have to have it dialled in even with a 5 speed otherwise your just going to run into big lag issues most of the time.
Cheers on the house mate, hard work paid off those 9 months. It's a really nicely sized shed. Can't believe it was a rebuild box too. You also reminded me that 3rd is fragile which I need to keep in mind. Been too excited getting the car back together and running last month so I think I've been careless. Best of luck on the search, either another 25det trans or another. Sucks the US market is starting to suck up your local cheaper parts :(
Yeah no real cheap options any more. Will see what ends up being the best option.
Nice Work tangles.
Well.... not really lol
You should enter the Motorsports Australia Targa Championship. The GBR round in Cairns FNQ has a stage that is held on the Gillies Range. 260odd corners in a 19km stretch of road that has an 800m climb in elevation. Epic.
The only draw back is the open class is really the only one worth entering and has 'qualifier' events which must be entered/completed beforehand.
*Edit: the championship consists of only 3 rounds, one of which is the infamous Tassie Targa. And there aren't that many serious championship contenders from what I saw from the Cairns round.
Yeah but targa is lot of effort, work people and money. Be great to do. But need a co driver and a crew.
@@tangles01 Even just experiencing the Gillies Range on any normal day is a treat.
Hire yourself an MX5 or something agile for a few days, organise a set of rims that will suit the OEM cars stance and invest in a set of sticky tyres.
If you've driven it before you'll know what I'm talking about but if you haven't, it's definitely a road that should be on any serious motoring enthusiasts bucket list...
Just gotta try catch it when the conditions are right. 👍
And what was the deal with your tyres? They didn't really seem up to the task. Was the track temp off the richter or something?
Or just limited for choice in the class you were in?
Or just using what you had at your disposal at the time...
@@muntee33 they tyres were fine, just over pressured started 26psi cold and were 40psi after the 1st session when up to temp. They were dropped to 28 hot the 2nd session was going to be the test. The grip was there the gearbox wasn't.
@@tangles01
But they just radial sport tyres for the street? They weren't semi or full slick no?
And it much of a hassle to run Nitrogen? I do on bikes, but obviously a bike is much easier/cheaper to do, and maintain.
Edit: cause yea, they seemed hard/hot/old. Or roll centre/suspension geometry/alignment not overly concentrated on outright grip and more so for stability and/or longevity. What sort of wear were U getting, ball, hot/cold tears, feathers, etc etc. I could be wrong (and likely am) but just seemed to break traction slightly easily when car is bit unsettled and they take their sweet arse time to regain traction. But as you said, they obviously running hot and over inflating...
Shame about the breakage but ay, it's all part of the journey... Build it, punish it, break it, make it stronger. And repeat haha. But yea, it gets expensive and frustrating when you're not racing as a means to alleviate a degree of your businesses tax problems...
I've tried to find a 'cheap' way to enter racing through karts and road racing bikes, none are cheap, and/or hassle free.
Tits n wheels my friend....
Maybe an only fans will fund a new gearbox
1st session is 3:19
I doubt it mate I've got more shit on than I can handle.
So where to from here?
PPG?
OSG?
T56?
C009?
I'm only asking cause my 33GTSt needs some love an I was considering the PPG gearset. But it's exxy and I don't know anyone who has run it.
Congrats on the house👍
Probably cd009 or OSG both the cheaper options. I'm not in the place to drop 20k plus on a box right now.
@@tangles01 the six speed sequential internals is $20K but you can also get a strengthened 5spd replacement gearset for around the $5K mark....
Dog/Synchro engagement, heli/straight cut gears, all available options...
I like the 33GTSt box and the ease of keeping things factory, but the OEM gearset, not so much.
And the current prices for rebuilt exchange boxes are absolutely fu©|
@@muntee33 6500 gets me a gearset shaft and plate. Of I do it myself.
Allan will that be a modified gearbox? I saw the video when you broke that gearbox.
Not sure yet Joe
What about a 350z box with a hybrid adaptor then you can still retain your rb clutch and fly wheel just have to get 12 mm milled off the face of the box and it’s not to dear for the adapter plate about 600 and hybrid is from nz so shouldn’t be long of a wait
A cd009 is one of the options
@@tangles01 would definitely go cd009 or t56 or tr6060. rb boxes are usually fairly strong ours has lasted a solid 5 years of drifting abuse at 430hp If you have the money and wanna upgrade you might as well just do it now that it's rooted otherwise there's a rb25det gearbox up on facebook for like $2500 at the gold coast that would be way cheaper. My t56 conversion on my jzx100 will cost me 4k plus the 2.5k I spent on the gearbox and that's still not including a tailshaft.
@@cuntustheshitposterthethir8310 the idea was to abuse this box for a bit and when suitable go to a getrag 6 speed dog. But this sudden failure means I need to rethink. I'm not in a position to drop 25k to keep going right away. But if im swapping boxes 6 speed is preferred which is where the cd009 come in.
@@tangles01
Plus adapted, plus new clutch/flywheel, plus new mounts, plus new tailshaft (?), plus balancing new tail shaft, plus rejigging uni angle on diff, plus, shifter adaptor/possibly cutting tunnel, plus reconfiguring and signal outputs from transmission, plus engineering inspection/compliance costs.....
Cd009 seems to be the better long term, one time route. But short term cost wise... If the box isn't rooted, just make whatever broke stronger... Still expensive as eventually the cost of a cd009 swap is additional to repairs now, but the $$ is only one factor. The time and hassle of such a task has to be considered too. If the time is not right for that sorta project, it isn't going to be a fun n enjoyable experience whatsoever.
Set up looks real loose. What suspension and tires?
BC racing coilovers. Yokahama a050 medium comp semi slicks
@@tangles01 what kind of spring rates? What’s the car weigh? Does it feel as loose as it looks?
@@skylinethings it's really loose there because the tyre starting pressure is too high. I like to set the pressures hot so 26psi cold they end up around 40 then I chase around 28. Each tyre gets a different temp load and therefore pressure as the day goes on. Also I didn't have a chance to set the damper properly just set it even front to rear. Been a while since I was at qr so just set it neutral was planning to adjust after 2 or 3 sessions.
@@skylinethings rates are like 8 and 10kg
@@skylinethings watch the hillclimb vid. I prefer a slightly tail car but you will see when driven properly with correct pressures and damper set up its way more stable than this session.
Speetek gearset, maybe?
Few options TBA on final answer