I would use some decorative molding around the door jam, and set the molding to align with the 'closed' bookcase. Using the square 'door-stop' framing sort of gives it away ... It still looks nice, and it is a matter of personal choice. But, especially if it is in a more formal room -- such as a dining room or library -- the decorative molding will really give it the look of 'just a bookshelf'. I saw a nice home, recently, that had a 2-section bookshelf in the front office. {The Owner worked from home, but would sometimes have clients come to his home office, that had a 'business door' directly on the front porch.} The middle section of the bookcase opened into the Master Bedroom walk-in closet! So he could go directly to and from his office to the bedroom... rather than walk thru several other rooms to 'go around' to the Master. BTW -- the closet also had a false wall that provided a Safe Room and his Firearm Storage, behind a Dressing Mirror.
Very nice kit! I really like your design and finish over the other similar concepts I’ve seen. I do have a couple of suggestions that you might try, a few things I may do if I order the kit. I would suggest cutting a bevel along the edge of the face trim on the hinged side. This would eliminate the corner of the door binding on the door stop while closing, as there would be no sharp comer after cutting the bevel. Secondly, I’m not a fan of the bottom bracket that secures to the floor as shown here. The threshold style looks better to me, but not the best application for every instance. I would use a similar bottom plate, but it would be only a few inches under the door, just enough to hold the base hardware and it would 45 from that corner toward the wall/baseboard. Once closed, the only exposed portion would be a 45 degree triangle base from the doors corner to the wall (about the same size as your). That base could slide along the wall for side to side adjustment during installation and I would have a groove cut into the base a few inches for in and out adjustment during installation. The bottom bracket would be secured after adjustments. The base would be beveled along the exposed edge and caulked at the baseboard for a nice finished look. Your kit is great, these suggestions are just my opinion according to my thoughts after watching your videos. Great job!
the bottom needs a threshold or something to make it look more hidden. the bottom of the bookshelf is a give-a-way. Real built in bookshelves don't go all the way to the ground, typically. Otherwise, very cool.
It looks like there’s not much room to store much in that closet as the bookcase needs most of the space to swing in. I’d have gone with one that swings out.
I'm also installing a hidden bookcase door. Except it opens out on hinges. It's definitely more complicated to do with trimming in the way but doable. Will be posting it when I complete it in the next 2 weeks. Just heading back from a trip and all my parts I ordered to finish it should be there.
@@tjstrain280 I actually did finish mine a few years ago. I got it on my channel. It was a small under stairs one but plan on doing a grander one in the future.
As a reformed carpet installer, I can tell you that a future carpet installer is going to curse you for screwing that over the carpet. One of the biggest pains were when people would build a wall right on existing carpet. The rip out is murder when that happens.
It looks like the screws to mount the deadbolt are accessible even when you're locked on the outside of the door? 10 seconds with a cordless drill and the deadbolt is removed?
Great job! Thanks for the information on building one!
I would use some decorative molding around the door jam, and set the molding to align with the 'closed' bookcase. Using the square 'door-stop' framing sort of gives it away ...
It still looks nice, and it is a matter of personal choice. But, especially if it is in a more formal room -- such as a dining room or library -- the decorative molding will really give it the look of 'just a bookshelf'. I saw a nice home, recently, that had a 2-section bookshelf in the front office. {The Owner worked from home, but would sometimes have clients come to his home office, that had a 'business door' directly on the front porch.} The middle section of the bookcase opened into the Master Bedroom walk-in closet! So he could go directly to and from his office to the bedroom... rather than walk thru several other rooms to 'go around' to the Master. BTW -- the closet also had a false wall that provided a Safe Room and his Firearm Storage, behind a Dressing Mirror.
Very nice kit! I really like your design and finish over the other similar concepts I’ve seen. I do have a couple of suggestions that you might try, a few things I may do if I order the kit. I would suggest cutting a bevel along the edge of the face trim on the hinged side. This would eliminate the corner of the door binding on the door stop while closing, as there would be no sharp comer after cutting the bevel. Secondly, I’m not a fan of the bottom bracket that secures to the floor as shown here. The threshold style looks better to me, but not the best application for every instance. I would use a similar bottom plate, but it would be only a few inches under the door, just enough to hold the base hardware and it would 45 from that corner toward the wall/baseboard. Once closed, the only exposed portion would be a 45 degree triangle base from the doors corner to the wall (about the same size as your). That base could slide along the wall for side to side adjustment during installation and I would have a groove cut into the base a few inches for in and out adjustment during installation. The bottom bracket would be secured after adjustments. The base would be beveled along the exposed edge and caulked at the baseboard for a nice finished look. Your kit is great, these suggestions are just my opinion according to my thoughts after watching your videos. Great job!
the bottom needs a threshold or something to make it look more hidden. the bottom of the bookshelf is a give-a-way. Real built in bookshelves don't go all the way to the ground, typically. Otherwise, very cool.
On your book latch installation video, where can I get the book and latch kit with the wire?
Nice work. Was wondering what kind of dead bolt you used?
"The hardest part is getting it into the hole".....that's what she said. Great video. Looks like good wood material as well.
That's what she said....LOL only when Im drunk me!
awesome
Great job
Beautiful!
Thank you!
It looks like there’s not much room to store much in that closet as the bookcase needs most of the space to swing in. I’d have gone with one that swings out.
I'm also installing a hidden bookcase door. Except it opens out on hinges. It's definitely more complicated to do with trimming in the way but doable. Will be posting it when I complete it in the next 2 weeks. Just heading back from a trip and all my parts I ordered to finish it should be there.
Awesome - can't wait to see it!
I’m planning on doing what you mentioned, out swing door. How can i follow your build? Thanks
@@tjstrain280 I actually did finish mine a few years ago. I got it on my channel. It was a small under stairs one but plan on doing a grander one in the future.
Can you install one in Maryland I will hire u
where did you get the door from?
As a reformed carpet installer, I can tell you that a future carpet installer is going to curse you for screwing that over the carpet. One of the biggest pains were when people would build a wall right on existing carpet. The rip out is murder when that happens.
Very nice, now that you have had it installed for a couple years is there any sagging?
Good question. I've had some installed for over 16 years with little or no sagging.
And now show us how to make the shelves for the RPGs.
Hey Lee, Is the info in here still relevant... the latest and greatest
What I don’t like is the molding at the bottom you can clearly tell it is framed as a door.
can i do the same thing but the door open to the outside
Hi great job man! What clearance do you need between the bookcase and jamb?
I leave 3/8" on either side, a total of 3/4" play.
could you tell me which hinge kit you have used here? Thanks
That is the Single Panel Recessed kit.
Where do i find that hinge setup?
@@leespangenberg48 sorry to bother you but can I ask where you got that hinge kit?
It looks like the screws to mount the deadbolt are accessible even when you're locked on the outside of the door? 10 seconds with a cordless drill and the deadbolt is removed?
Not at all. You have to unlock the door with the key before you can get access to the mounting screws.
Any one know information on where to buy that door?
The spinning transitions are really irritating.
Whats the ballpark price for something like this?
The hardware kit for that door is $99. www.secretdoorways.com/pricing.html
wow you can literally lock someone in there, no safety escape latch... thats a little troubling...
I imagine you could pull the pin at the top and make an escape if need be
any way to escape if you get locked inside?
Depends on the lock set-up. In this case, it is only designed to be locked and unlocked from the outside.
The hinge screws are inside. Keep a screwdriver inside the room just in case.
3/8 of an inch?! What even is that?!
can i do the same thing but the door open to the outside
Yes you can! Check out this video: ua-cam.com/video/rmBkWFeZ_xc/v-deo.html
+Lee S thanks