My dad introduced me to the world of watches when I was a youngster. We often played a little game after dinner, where I would try to guess which of his unique watches he had worn that day. He had a Longines, a Whitnauer, an Elgin, a Bulova, and several others. One of his favorites was a Gruen Automatic that I also loved. The rest were all hand-wound and the time checked each morning according to a prominent clock somewhere in New York City. Great memories.
I remember looking at Longines-Wittenauer watches with my father in Medina, Ohio in the early 60s. Sadly the town square began a decline in the late 60s until the 80s. The Medina town square began a revival in the mid 80s that is still going. Retail and restaurants are the mainstay of a thriving small town economy. The Longines-Wittenauer watches available then were in the 90s to 200s. Easily about ten to fifteen times that price today. Elegant and out of reach for us. But still something cool to see. Too bad Longines-Wittenauer did not follow in Medina's footsteps. Nice work. Fond memories.
Hi Teddy. I’ve been busy the last few weeks so couldn’t really check your reviews and what a great topic to start again with! 😁 These brands really made handsome watches! I thought SMITHS disappeared completely. Great to know they are still around! I wish these companies spent a little more on advertising! 😉 Thanks for this great video!
@@TeddyBaldassarre New intros look classy and smooth though. Keep up the good work, I'm just developing watch collecting hobby and you + TGV have been very helpful. xx Thanku. *keep eating popcorn and binge watching further* 🌈✨
Jimit Vaidya watch out for the tgv vids.. Theres nothing the guy doesnt like and wont try to sell.. Just dont buy every seiko you can get your hands on. Ill be glad to follow up this convo if you want.
Another new intro! Recently found your channel and have sort of witnessed your huge jump in quality/quantity of videos in the past 3 months or so. Keep it up!
What about Elgin? I had a piece a while ago but sold it. Not sure if they were a great brand, but I know they had a good footprint during the mid-century.
They made excellent pocket watches in Europe the late 19th century and at the beginning of the 19th and were involved in the development of the electromechanical wrist watch, together with Laco (?).
@@TeddyBaldassarre Would be nice. Congratulations! You're not just talking about watches nobody can buy and seem to have no prejudices, which is rare among watch lovers. The excellent Elgin pocket watches are sold for almost nothing, like chf 80.- (same in Dollars).
I just picked up a Vintage early 60's to late 50's Wittenauer diver a Steel watch and bracelet with a dive time bezel. The crown isn't screw down. I paid $50.00 dollars at a Pawn shop. The watch is a 8.75 of 10. And would be better if not for the lume degrading off the hands. But still looks and runs good.The Bracelet has a Nice Tapper and the style reminds of of an early AP Bracelet I put this old beauty on my right arms and so far so good. It does have a day date function as well. I have not yet removed the case back to read the movement. I live in florida and have a feeling this was in a retirees box for a lot of years and has not seen much wrist time. As the bracelet looks better than my one year old steinhart as far as scratches go
Great stuff 👍🏼 a couple brands there I really wanted to learn about despite their demise 🤔 How about Gruen or Waltham? Actually I think Waltham is trying to make a comeback?! How about a video on brands that are trying to resurrect themselves too 😁
Invicta. It is one of the oldest brands in the marked and their vintage pieces are beautiful. Now they are the manufacturers of large fugly watches, that are large enough to have their own gravitational pull in outter space.
eduardo diez invicta has nothing to do with the original brand. not the name, not the production country, not even the family. so there is no history of the brand.
Thank you so much for the video. There are a few remarks about Swiss brands which died for several reasons, were re-born several times and died again. The late 1970s, early 1980s quartz revolution does neither excuse nor justify their fatal decline. A 4 full days seminar could be held in a hotel to analyze every brands' roots of decline. Let's try to summarize that: 1. The Swiss (I am one of them) always have led the path of modern watchmaking (the time machine) that you could buy without being a member of THE aristocracy. I say that without any arrogance, it is a fact. 2. The Swiss production facilities were neither damaged nor destroyed by WWII in Europe. 3. Everybody needed timekeepers after WWII. Not only individuals but also industries (aircraft, cars etc...) and armies during the Cold War. 4. Watches were not sold but bought by hungry customers IN CASH. Then, no idea about the final geographical destination, personality, character, mood, "desiderata", wishes from customers, distributors and end-users. They just wanted a timekeeper. No further question. 5. Most watch brands were small production units and competition was not an issue worldwide, because their competition was across the street, the other manufacture(s), not the markets. Salesmen were a from a special breed, tolerated, but not needed, because everything was sold, if not pre-sold, anyway. So salesmen had only business cards when travelling (and there was no fax, no Internet to display "your models", for the rest, no idea. Still now the location of real watchmakers is very limited. Therefore, very often, a small village was for them THE Universe. 6. Since many of them bear family names like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier and many others cheaper in prices & notoriety (or no notoriety at all), they were family businesses (apart from Rolex, Omega, Universal and a few others) sons and daughters of the founder would inherit from Dad's or Uncle's business along with sisters in law, nephews, blabalabla and families issues and disputes with a huge payroll in a circle where many of them were simply neither gifted nor interested for business and especially watchmaking.... There was a time in the early part of the second part of the 20th century during which e.g. Movado had 13 Vice Presidents and it was no exception And it was a very small company.. The Breitling's family and most others were in the same situation. They did not have any contact with reality since they were struggling to deliver anything. Moreover, to save & protect financially the "heritage" family members were marrying the competitor's or ally's bride. So that decision making circles were more limited, but KEPT BETWEEN THEMSELVES. 7. There was no brand consciousness. It has started really with tradition, emotion, history in the 1980s. 8. At that time, watches were not sold as a brand but as a commodity. 9. Depending on emotional, factual, "by chance" opportunities, world markets were approached. 10. Brands had no specific design. Travelling all over the world, brands' salesmen were asking distributors about their market's needs, desires and wishes and were then producing what was asked. There was NO DESIGNER. Look at the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s models. Whatever brand you might consider they all were producing the same design. Earlier in the century, most of the times, there was no brand on the dial, maybe engraved on the case back....Maybe. 11. The Quartz revolution happened. The first quartz watch was developed by the Swiss but in an engineering lab. Swiss brands could not have taken care less.... at that time. 12. Then the Japanese (Seiko, Citizen etc...) were invading the world with affordable and high quality quartz models. We said in Switzerland, "electronic models"...... and customers & distributors demanded for an alternative to mechanical watches. Quartz became a fashion. After all, it was reliable, precise and not that expensive. 13. Soon, mechanical watches became obsolete, only to be kept by a Happy Few, such as traditional but so pricey brands of the e.g. "Holy Trinity" (PP, VC, AP) and ROLEX. But even PP, VC and ROLEX developed some Quartz models, maybe to show the world that, in case, they could do it. 14. It is now commonly accepted that Quartz watches are really convenient, precise, but desperately lack emotion. It is a "chip" in a watch. Not a so well called "movement" 15. When the Japanese main brands (SEIKO, CITIZEN and CASIO) realized that the war against the Swiss was lost, they realized that mastering the technology, the functionality, the quality (not the least of parameters) but no prestige..... was not a finality. 16. Feeling their lack of "emotions' supply", they started to shop bankrupted Swiss brands (JEAN LASSALLE, CREDOR etc....) 17. The Chinese did so in the 1970s, 1980s, 1990s with JEAN D'EVE, BULER, UNIVERSAL, SOLVIL & TITUS, CYMA, ROAMER, CORUM and tons of others but with no culture, no feeling for the watch industry and only disappointment because of a lack of brand feeling. For them, it is just a financial bottom line. They bought the brands'name and machinery tools but even genuine watchmakers were not needed anymore .. 18. To the big despair of watch lovers, many watch brands have lost their mind, personality & soul when forced integration to large financial groups occurred. Because watches are not washing powder or toothpaste companies. It is a "consumer good" but not a merchandise. 19. Genuine Watch companies have been integrating their own corporate identities and cultures through lifetime commitments and devotion. The "Holy Trinity" brands (PP, VC, AP) and ROLEX are among the only few ones which are credible and steady. But it is never "in the pocket". It is a everyday's challenge. "To protect & serve" such brands, there is no rest. 20. In the last 30 years then came to the market many private labels brands (related to fashion, lifestyle etc...) I would not comment on them because they are not watchmakers. Many of them are dead or discounted beyond imagination. And they have nothing to do with watchmaking's art. 21. Same as (point 20) for many crowdfunded new brands on Internet with their perverse attitude that they have all learnt everything overnight.....(when it has taken decades to others without any guarantee of success) and that they want to share their expertise with you, exceptionally, below costs, "screwing" sales channels and that they are the next PATEK PHILIPPE within 3 years!!!! They want to teach you. "Watch aficionados" hate to have their behaviour dictated by FB geeks, among others..... I have been very long, most probably too long. But it is sometimes required. Shortcuts would be then an insult to those who really love and respect watchmaking.
Jean Lassale was the importer of Seiko for Switzerland. The owner, Jean Lassale, owed over 20 million francs to the swiss authorities and then committed suicide. He kept the money he owed to swiss retiring system. The money he should have paid on account of his employees, he waisted it for his own brand, Jean Lassale, wanting to make the worlds flattest mechanical watches. There are a lot of assholes in Switzerland -more than in the US even.
@@jmand63 Another factor for the decline of swiss watch industry in the late 70s was the abolishment of fixed change rates called Breton Woods. Suddenly, the Pound was far less than its prior 12 francs and the Dollar was no longer 4 Swiss francs. So the swiss watches suddenly gave far less dollars per watch or had to be sold for more dollars and pounds than before! A very unconformable situation for the swiss watch industry!
Right. Ending August 15th, 1971, I was only 8 years old but as an economist (you know economists, those guys pretending to know things even when they have no idea.... :D and the opposite happens.... ) this August 15, 1971 is a day every one remembers (gold parity with the USD; USD 1 was worth CHF 4.35 and the following day a big plunge for the USD and a few years later nearly the value of today. It was a big shock for the world's economy then even more depending on the US currency than nowadays. Even if that privileged link between the USD and Gold was something of the past, it shocked people all over the world, because parity between paper and sound precious material was broken. All of a sudden. The Swiss economy depends on added value exports since we have no natural resources. At best, those are sophisticated manufactured goods & services (banking, insurance companies etc...). When the USD lost a lot of its value, the traditional base of North & South American customers nearly collapsed. Then from 1968, 1970 to nowadays, Asia, North East, Japan, then Korea and then South East Asia with Hong Kong and Singapore have emerged as very profitable potentials. But customers had different tastes, not the same as North Americans and Europeans. Hong Kong and Singapore were easy and comfortable locations to do business. Platforms to other markets, sure, but then when doing business there it was the "Western way", since as former British colonies, Commercial Laws were easy to understand and respect as a foreigner with a Western education. Nowadays, Commercial Laws enforced in Hong Kong, for instance are supposed to be the same as before, maybe, hopefully, but not 100% sure since the take over from China is effective and patent. Traditionally still strong brands in the USA were and still are quite unknown in Asia and the opposite is also true. For instance Concord and Movado are unknown in Asia, so is Raymond Weil and even Breitling so far. Vacheron Constantin has been traditionally nr.1 in Japan for generations and China more recently before AP and PP but VC has been weak in the US in comparison with PP and AP. So is the watch world..... The only GLOBAL SWISS WATCH BRANDS which are famous everywhere are ROLEX and far behind, OMEGA. OMEGA used to be worldwide famous for a very long time before ROLEX. But ROLEX has emerged constantly and strongly since the late 1970s to the mid 1980s and until now at a rocket's pace. It is a fact. We might like or dislike the brand, it has nothing to do with that. But they have achieved it. And every wise and honest people recognize it in the watch insiders' circles.
Hey teddy, I really enjoy your stuff and have gained new interest in watch collecting. It would be cool if you make an episode on watches for big wrists ..something above 45 mm? Thanks
Really informative video, Teddy! I appreciate the research you put into these. Although I knew about all these brands, I might not have gone ahead and done that research myself.
You should do some research on Favre Leauba. One of the oldest watch brands which is still out there. Probably the 2nd oldest swiss watch co. I have one which was owned by my great grandfather. Its almost a 100 years old, still works like a charm and also looks great.
Smiths are still being made. A company called Timefactors owns the brand now, and still makes pieces similar to their vintage ones, for those that like the aesthetic but not the risk of older pieces.
Indeed a chap by the name of Eddie Platts (He is ex-military) produces some lovely pieces with ETA movements. I also have a couple of vintage Smiths pieces.
👍 Bless you Lee Penney! I just took a look at the Timefactors website. I had no idea anyone was making affordable watches like that. They're a much safer investment than pre-owned or new-old-stock vintage pieces. And Christmas is coming!
A quotation from the Timefactors main page: The "Smiths" watches produced by Time Factors are not in any way connected with the "Smiths" watches produced by Smiths Group plc until 1979.
Great video Teddy! Maybe you could do some entire videos dedicated to some of these brands specifically. Another great brand from the past is Titus. Supposedly they're still big in Asia nowadays, though.
Well longines and zenith are also far from their best shape. All great brands to pick up a first vintage piece given everyone focuses on Rolex & co. Great video
Teddy, Who was the watchmaker who was incorporating vintage Elgin pocket watch movements and incorporating them into large wrist pieces? The were very Art Deco and looked quite cool and got a lot of mention about 5 years ago.
Hi Teddy, I love the video in the two intros that you are trying out but don't care for the audio in either one. For me, the audio in your original intro makes me think, "It is Teddy time!" I recommend keeping the original audio and adding new watch-related video to accompany it.
Hi Teddy, great channel... Really enjoy your content. A manufacturer which I think deserves more airtime is Ball watch co. How about doing a review and telling us what you think... Not sure if they really lost their way, but definitely not mainstream.
Another fine, interesting and informative video. Any possibility that Disco also played a role in their demise? Disco, quartz, velvet suits and platform shoes...talk about style.
Nice work on the history of these great Marques. I would add that Invicta and Movado were once great watch companies that are culturally lost (mostly) today.
Yet somehow, I'm still in love with my Longines Master Collection after a full year. Maybe their entire collection isn't what it used to be, but they still make incredibly beautiful and nice watches (e.g. Master Collection, Hydroconquest).
How about Enicar. They had a great history involving Everest climbs with the Sherpa line but also fell victim to the Quartz crisis. They made great watches and also have a website that is lacking. Sadly, indicative of their modern offerings.
Might be off-topic, but what do you think about Junkers? I'm looking at purchasing one one of their ETA Bauhaus watches as an alternative to a Junghans (out of my price range) in terms of a German-made automatic watch.
Junkers is probably made by what we call "private label" in the business. It's an assembler that makes watches for anybody from a certain number of ordered watches. A private label would make f.ex. 50 Teddy Baldassare watches in any quality he would like. What happened to Junghans escapes my knowledge. Junghans once was the third biggest watch- and clockmaker in the world and went into total bankruptcy lately. They sold their solar radio controlled ceramic watches much to expensive and were bought by the same Hong Kong investment group called Chromachron as Bulova was. What then happend to them, I ignore it completely. Watch business is a dirty business and you should never believe what they are teliing to you in all these magazines! 99.99% are fake stories, since the watch industry died in 1983.
Good stuff Teddy. I'm a a Brit and although not into vintage, if I see a Smiths I will be looking more closely. Had a few cars with Smiths instruments (erm yes I'm THAT old!), and was unaware they made watches until now. Many thanks.
I had no idea about the Smiths brand and will be looking to buy one, as I found a vintage one at around 40$. What do you think of starting a new videos series related to brands from certain countries? For example, up until recently I had no idea that Romania produced watches in the '80s and '90s (brands like Orex, Optimef, Cromef). Optimef has been recently resurrected and has quite some interesting designs with Miyota Quartz movement. Cheers from Romania!
The first time I came across a Universal Geneve Tri Compax it was love at first sight. But I wince at what the servicing costs would be. Brands that have fallen off: Benrus, Gallet, Wakmann, and Revue Thommen.
Great video.. Very informative! Learned quite a bit from this one.. And the universal geneve website is going the way of the dinosaurs once flash disappears.. Kind of sad
Hey teddy. I am a 15 year old boy and am about 5' 9''. I have about a 8 inch wrist. I am trying to get into watches but am not going to wear a watch that is super expensive (over $1000). My best watch at the moment is the citizen sailhawk. As a present from my grandfather (watch collector with 2 pateks). What would you recommend that is simple and elegant around 40 mm and between $100-$200?
I know the guy who made the service for Universal. He told me they were totally chaotic and very money waisting. Some of the parts, he took them where he repaired the watches: At home. Universal didn't even know which parts they had and which not. They had the parts under another reference and didn't know it. To a customer who wanted to repair his cherished watch, they told him not being able to do this because of lack of parts -in fact, they had the parts without knowing it. My friend made good money working for them, like over 7'000$ per month, a free appartement in Geneva etc., but he got crazy with the management. They moved parts from Biel to Geneva and back again! It's mainly the fault of an incapable management that they failed.
Armstrong wore a Wittanauer All Sport during Gemini 8? I've never heard this before. I don't doubt you, but can you reveal the source of this information?
I'm a huge fan of UG, the Polerouter has to be one of the most beautifully balanced watches, well, in my opinion at least. To add to the "forgotten brands", I'd add Benrus and Gruen. The Skychief from Benrus and the 24 hour jump dial Airflight from Gruen are my favourites. Benrus now does a remake of the SkyChief, advertising a "swiss chrono movement", but the caseback of the watch says it's a Japanese automatic
Smith’s is interesting, in the 80s they were heavily involved with Formula One (in fact most iconic F1cars from the dawn of the competition till the early 0s had Smiths Instruments) yet didn’t use that platform to market watches, unlike Heuer who were bought in by McLaren to replace Smiths and did, also fostering a relationship with TAG resulting in the company we know today.
Love the Universal Geneve Chronograph, Sadly prices have jumped hugely over the last two years, I just can't afford, a watch that may be difficult or impossible to repair,
The Universal Genève bit reminded me of something we must always remember: "Investment" companies (like Stelux, BlackRock etc) are basically gamblers who either purchase stock and companies to make a VERY quick buck, cartels (or wannabe cartels), or patent trolls who scoop up intellectual property so that they'll blackmail real innovators through abusive lawsuits.
I was wondering what you know about the watch company, Austin. Does it fall in this group of watch brands that lost its way? also I purchased an Austin Skindiver from the 1960s. How would I find out about this watch? Thanks
Thought of reaching out to companies like Nomos? Could be a stretch, but if you could get hands-on reviews with the brand, you'd be taking advantage of an untapped market
There are literally hundreds of brands that collapsed in the period after the quartz crisis but have limped through and now survive a kind of half life as fashion brands these would include: invicta, charmex, ebel, ernst and borel, rotary, roamer, movado etc.
Hi Teddy, thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us. But if I could please pick your brain & ask if you have heard any good &/or bad regarding the Tissot Powermatic 80 COSC Lady? I am currently not working, but would like to get one for the partners 40th “if you think they’re ok” (& worth $1200 - $1300 AUD) Any advise would be greatly appreciated 👍🍻
Thank for watching Simon! And what a great gift. So I actually did a video about women’s watches and I mentioned that exact watch. If you want my thoughts, I think they are great looking watches. One thing I would say is that you are paying a premium for that COSC rating. Generally I don’t think it is work the price increase, especially if your partner is not someone to care about that sort of thing. The regular automatic version can be had for quite a bit less. Just my thoughts!
Teddy Baldassarre, Thank you very much very much for your opinion (& reply). With regards to the price difference (about $300 AUD) I thought it would be worth it (also get an extra years warranty)🤔 My partner does like mechanical watches (she loves her Seiko Sportura with open heart & exhibition case back), so I was trying to improve on that. I will definitely look back on your videos to find the one you mentioned (any idea on time frame🤔👍) Thanks again & best regards, Simon
I just purchased the mens version as my first "real" watch and I love it. Really beautiful work. If you want to find a bit of a lower price point but want that Swiss quality, you could check out Mathey-Tissot.
Universal, that was a bit tragic if you consider what they used to produce. Here's another one: Minerva, who was still producing until early 2000, then got sold a couple of times before ending in the Richemont stable, producing some of the movements for Montblanc. Very sad.
Can someone help me out with some information on a watch brand called GERALDY ? I found one the other day and had never heard of it. I have looked literally EVERYWHERE on the net to find any information on the watch or the company that made the watch to no avail. The only thing I saw was a couple of listings on eBay only and one site that had an online auction that had sold one back in 2008 for alittle north of $2,600 USD. This watch was sitting at a flea market for two dollars. Any information on the brand would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
I remember seeing wittnauer commercials as a kid. I think one had a lady that kept saying I WANT A WITTENAUR or I WANTED A WITTENAUR. Made me really want one for myself lol
After WWII until the early 1970s, there was a brand in Switzerland which was more famous than OMEGA and ROLEX (by far!) had not even reached the elite of watchmaking. That brand was ROAMER from Solothurn and Grenchen. On one production site, there were more than 1,200 people producing everything from dials to cases, bracelets and of course manufactured mechanical Roskopf movements (please see below for its meaning). They were crushed by the Quartz revolution of the early 1970s and went nearly or totally bankrupt several times then. It is now owned by a Chinese Group from Hong Kong, perhaps with 20 or so workers and everything is subcontracted. It is a pale shadow of itself. And it will never be coming back because those who still remember those glorious days are more than 70 years old and are a dying breed now. Sad.
What a great video, Teddy. I learn something every time. Thanks for that!
And love the new intro! Much more fitting to the subject matter. 👍
Thanks brother! Appreciate you tuning in as always!
My dad introduced me to the world of watches when I was a youngster. We often played a little game after dinner, where I would try to guess which of his unique watches he had worn that day. He had a Longines, a Whitnauer, an Elgin, a Bulova, and several others. One of his favorites was a Gruen Automatic that I also loved. The rest were all hand-wound and the time checked each morning according to a prominent clock somewhere in New York City. Great memories.
I remember looking at Longines-Wittenauer watches with my father in Medina, Ohio in the early 60s. Sadly the town square began a decline in the late 60s until the 80s. The Medina town square began a revival in the mid 80s that is still going. Retail and restaurants are the mainstay of a thriving small town economy. The Longines-Wittenauer watches available then were in the 90s to 200s. Easily about ten to fifteen times that price today. Elegant and out of reach for us. But still something cool to see. Too bad Longines-Wittenauer did not follow in Medina's footsteps.
Nice work. Fond memories.
Hi Teddy.
I’ve been busy the last few weeks so couldn’t really check your reviews and what a great topic to start again with! 😁
These brands really made handsome watches! I thought SMITHS disappeared completely. Great to know they are still around! I wish these companies spent a little more on advertising! 😉
Thanks for this great video!
Great video, great channel!
I miss that awesome intro with groovy cool music. ~
P.S I'm a new sub and binge watched videos yesterday. lel
Hahaha welcome to the channel man 😂 keep binging
Theres a lot of great videos man! Keep on binging!
@@flippinzippo9670 Thanks man, yeah I'm on it. ✨
@@TeddyBaldassarre New intros look classy and smooth though. Keep up the good work, I'm just developing watch collecting hobby and you + TGV have been very helpful. xx Thanku.
*keep eating popcorn and binge watching further* 🌈✨
Jimit Vaidya watch out for the tgv vids.. Theres nothing the guy doesnt like and wont try to sell.. Just dont buy every seiko you can get your hands on. Ill be glad to follow up this convo if you want.
Another new intro! Recently found your channel and have sort of witnessed your huge jump in quality/quantity of videos in the past 3 months or so. Keep it up!
What about Elgin? I had a piece a while ago but sold it. Not sure if they were a great brand, but I know they had a good footprint during the mid-century.
They made excellent pocket watches in Europe the late 19th century and at the beginning of the 19th and were involved in the development of the electromechanical wrist watch, together with Laco (?).
Great mention. I think a part two is in order.
@@TeddyBaldassarre Would be nice. Congratulations! You're not just talking about watches nobody can buy and seem to have no prejudices, which is rare among watch lovers. The excellent Elgin pocket watches are sold for almost nothing, like chf 80.- (same in Dollars).
My question as well. I’m age 63, and recall Elgin as commonplace brand from my childhood.
It's all Greek to me@Kwenz Landah
This is what a watch channel should be. Excellent channel. Thanks, man.
I just picked up a Vintage early 60's to late 50's Wittenauer diver a Steel watch and bracelet with a dive time bezel. The crown isn't screw down. I paid $50.00 dollars at a Pawn shop. The watch is a 8.75 of 10. And would be better if not for the lume degrading off the hands. But still looks and runs good.The Bracelet has a Nice Tapper and the style reminds of of an early AP Bracelet I put this old beauty on my right arms and so far so good. It does have a day date function as well. I have not yet removed the case back to read the movement. I live in florida and have a feeling this was in a retirees box for a lot of years and has not seen much wrist time. As the bracelet looks better than my one year old steinhart as far as scratches go
Great job! I have a restored 1950's era Wittenauer. Looks and runs great.
Elgin is another great brand, if you do another video like this.
As usual another great informative video introducing us to history and beautiful vintage watches.
Your video quality and production is very good.
Your content just keeps getting better and better!
Great stuff 👍🏼 a couple brands there I really wanted to learn about despite their demise 🤔 How about Gruen or Waltham? Actually I think Waltham is trying to make a comeback?! How about a video on brands that are trying to resurrect themselves too 😁
Another well thought out, informative video, Teddy. Oh, and love the new intro, man.
Invicta. It is one of the oldest brands in the marked and their vintage pieces are beautiful. Now they are the manufacturers of large fugly watches, that are large enough to have their own gravitational pull in outter space.
The same as Bulova.
Valentin Pavlov yeah I love the look of the bulova moon watch but I'm not putting a 45 mm watch on my wrist.
@@Ash12428 Although 45mm Bulova Moon Watch's still one of the best watches in this price range
Valentin Pavlov it's a great watch but I'm not a big guy so it'd look ridiculous on me.
eduardo diez invicta has nothing to do with the original brand. not the name, not the production country, not even the family. so there is no history of the brand.
Nicely done Teddy! Enjoyed the video very much!
Appreciate you tuning in, Jeff.
Great video Teddy. Nice and informative.
Thank you so much for the video. There are a few remarks about Swiss brands which died for several reasons, were re-born several times and died again. The late 1970s, early 1980s quartz revolution does neither excuse nor justify their fatal decline. A 4 full days seminar could be held in a hotel to analyze every brands' roots of decline. Let's try to summarize that:
1. The Swiss (I am one of them) always have led the path of modern watchmaking (the time machine) that you could buy without being a member of THE aristocracy. I say that without any arrogance, it is a fact.
2. The Swiss production facilities were neither damaged nor destroyed by WWII in Europe.
3. Everybody needed timekeepers after WWII. Not only individuals but also industries (aircraft, cars etc...) and armies during the Cold War.
4. Watches were not sold but bought by hungry customers IN CASH. Then, no idea about the final geographical destination, personality, character, mood, "desiderata", wishes from customers, distributors and end-users. They just wanted a timekeeper. No further question.
5. Most watch brands were small production units and competition was not an issue worldwide, because their competition was across the street, the other manufacture(s), not the markets. Salesmen were a from a special breed, tolerated, but not needed, because everything was sold, if not pre-sold, anyway. So salesmen had only business cards when travelling (and there was no fax, no Internet to display "your models", for the rest, no idea. Still now the location of real watchmakers is very limited. Therefore, very often, a small village was for them THE Universe.
6. Since many of them bear family names like Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet, Baume & Mercier and many
others cheaper in prices & notoriety (or no notoriety at all), they were family businesses (apart from Rolex, Omega, Universal and a few others) sons and daughters of the founder would inherit from Dad's or Uncle's business along with sisters in law, nephews, blabalabla and families issues and disputes with a huge payroll in a circle where many of them were simply neither gifted nor interested for business and especially watchmaking.... There was a time in the early part of the second part of the 20th century during which e.g. Movado had 13 Vice Presidents and it was no exception And it was a very small company.. The Breitling's family and most others were in the same situation. They did not have any contact with reality since they were struggling to deliver anything. Moreover, to save & protect financially the "heritage" family members were marrying the competitor's or ally's bride. So that decision making circles were more limited, but KEPT BETWEEN THEMSELVES.
7. There was no brand consciousness. It has started really with tradition, emotion, history in the 1980s.
8. At that time, watches were not sold as a brand but as a commodity.
9. Depending on emotional, factual, "by chance" opportunities, world markets were approached.
10. Brands had no specific design. Travelling all over the world, brands' salesmen were asking distributors about their market's needs, desires and wishes and were then producing what was asked. There was NO DESIGNER. Look at the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s models. Whatever brand you might consider they all were producing the same design. Earlier in the century, most of the times, there was no brand on the dial, maybe engraved on the case back....Maybe.
11. The Quartz revolution happened. The first quartz watch was developed by the Swiss but in an engineering lab. Swiss brands could not have taken care less.... at that time.
12. Then the Japanese (Seiko, Citizen etc...) were invading the world with affordable and high quality quartz models. We said in Switzerland, "electronic models"...... and customers & distributors demanded for an alternative to mechanical watches. Quartz became a fashion. After all, it was reliable, precise and not that expensive.
13. Soon, mechanical watches became obsolete, only to be kept by a Happy Few, such as traditional but so pricey brands of the e.g. "Holy Trinity" (PP, VC, AP) and ROLEX. But even PP, VC and ROLEX developed some Quartz models, maybe to show the world that, in case, they could do it.
14. It is now commonly accepted that Quartz watches are really convenient, precise, but desperately lack emotion. It is a "chip" in a watch. Not a so well called "movement"
15. When the Japanese main brands (SEIKO, CITIZEN and CASIO) realized that the war against the Swiss was lost, they realized that mastering the technology, the functionality, the quality (not the least of parameters) but no prestige..... was not a finality.
16. Feeling their lack of "emotions' supply", they started to shop bankrupted Swiss brands (JEAN LASSALLE, CREDOR etc....)
17. The Chinese did so in the 1970s, 1980s, 1990s with JEAN D'EVE, BULER, UNIVERSAL, SOLVIL & TITUS, CYMA, ROAMER, CORUM and tons of others but with no culture, no feeling for the watch industry and only disappointment because of a lack of brand feeling. For them, it is just a financial bottom line. They bought the brands'name and machinery tools but even genuine watchmakers were not needed anymore ..
18. To the big despair of watch lovers, many watch brands have lost their mind, personality & soul when forced integration to large financial groups occurred. Because watches are not washing powder or toothpaste companies. It is a "consumer good" but not a merchandise.
19. Genuine Watch companies have been integrating their own corporate identities and cultures through lifetime commitments and devotion. The "Holy Trinity" brands (PP, VC, AP) and ROLEX are among the only few ones which are credible and steady. But it is never "in the pocket". It is a everyday's challenge. "To protect & serve" such brands, there is no rest.
20. In the last 30 years then came to the market many private labels brands (related to fashion, lifestyle etc...) I would not comment on them because they are not watchmakers. Many of them are dead or discounted beyond imagination. And they have nothing to do with watchmaking's art.
21. Same as (point 20) for many crowdfunded new brands on Internet with their perverse attitude that they have all learnt everything overnight.....(when it has taken decades to others without any guarantee of success) and that they want to share their expertise with you, exceptionally, below costs, "screwing" sales channels and that they are the next PATEK PHILIPPE within 3 years!!!! They want to teach you. "Watch aficionados" hate to have their behaviour dictated by FB geeks, among others.....
I have been very long, most probably too long. But it is sometimes required. Shortcuts would be then an insult to those who really love and respect watchmaking.
Jean Lassale was the importer of Seiko for Switzerland. The owner, Jean Lassale, owed over 20 million francs to the swiss authorities and then committed suicide. He kept the money he owed to swiss retiring system. The money he should have paid on account of his employees, he waisted it for his own brand, Jean Lassale, wanting to make the worlds flattest mechanical watches. There are a lot of assholes in Switzerland -more than in the US even.
I agree with you.
@@jmand63 Another factor for the decline of swiss watch industry in the late 70s was the abolishment of fixed change rates called Breton Woods. Suddenly, the Pound was far less than its prior 12 francs and the Dollar was no longer 4 Swiss francs. So the swiss watches suddenly gave far less dollars per watch or had to be sold for more dollars and pounds than before! A very unconformable situation for the swiss watch industry!
Right. Ending August 15th, 1971, I was only 8 years old but as an economist (you know economists, those guys pretending to know things even when they have no idea.... :D and the opposite happens.... ) this August 15, 1971 is a day every one remembers (gold parity with the USD; USD 1 was worth CHF 4.35 and the following day a big plunge for the USD and a few years later nearly the value of today. It was a big shock for the world's economy then even more depending on the US currency than nowadays. Even if that privileged link between the USD and Gold was something of the past, it shocked people all over the world, because parity between paper and sound precious material was broken. All of a sudden. The Swiss economy depends on added value exports since we have no natural resources. At best, those are sophisticated manufactured goods & services (banking, insurance companies etc...). When the USD lost a lot of its value, the traditional base of North & South American customers nearly collapsed. Then from 1968, 1970 to nowadays, Asia, North East, Japan, then Korea and then South East Asia with Hong Kong and Singapore have emerged as very profitable potentials. But customers had different tastes, not the same as North Americans and Europeans. Hong Kong and Singapore were easy and comfortable locations to do business. Platforms to other markets, sure, but then when doing business there it was the "Western way", since as former British colonies, Commercial Laws were easy to understand and respect as a foreigner with a Western education. Nowadays, Commercial Laws enforced in Hong Kong, for instance are supposed to be the same as before, maybe, hopefully, but not 100% sure since the take over from China is effective and patent. Traditionally still strong brands in the USA were and still are quite unknown in Asia and the opposite is also true. For instance Concord and Movado are unknown in Asia, so is Raymond Weil and even Breitling so far. Vacheron Constantin has been traditionally nr.1 in Japan for generations and China more recently before AP and PP but VC has been weak in the US in comparison with PP and AP. So is the watch world..... The only GLOBAL SWISS WATCH BRANDS which are famous everywhere are ROLEX and far behind, OMEGA. OMEGA used to be worldwide famous for a very long time before ROLEX. But ROLEX has emerged constantly and strongly since the late 1970s to the mid 1980s and until now at a rocket's pace. It is a fact. We might like or dislike the brand, it has nothing to do with that. But they have achieved it. And every wise and honest people recognize it in the watch insiders' circles.
Your videos are so great!
Hey teddy, I really enjoy your stuff and have gained new interest in watch collecting. It would be cool if you make an episode on watches for big wrists
..something above 45 mm? Thanks
Really informative video, Teddy! I appreciate the research you put into these. Although I knew about all these brands, I might not have gone ahead and done that research myself.
You should do some research on Favre Leauba. One of the oldest watch brands which is still out there. Probably the 2nd oldest swiss watch co.
I have one which was owned by my great grandfather. Its almost a 100 years old, still works like a charm and also looks great.
thank you very much for the video. I really like it. can you give me information about the Aroma brand?
Great research!
Content is great as usual!
Smiths are still being made. A company called Timefactors owns the brand now, and still makes pieces similar to their vintage ones, for those that like the aesthetic but not the risk of older pieces.
Indeed a chap by the name of Eddie Platts (He is ex-military) produces some lovely pieces with ETA movements. I also have a couple of vintage Smiths pieces.
👍 Bless you Lee Penney! I just took a look at the Timefactors website. I had no idea anyone was making affordable watches like that. They're a much safer investment than pre-owned or new-old-stock vintage pieces. And Christmas is coming!
A quotation from the Timefactors main page: The "Smiths" watches produced by Time Factors are not in any way connected with the "Smiths" watches produced by Smiths Group plc until 1979.
Just started the video but before I continue watching I've got to say congrats on that new intro man! Suits the channel much better, cheers! :-)
Great video Teddy! Maybe you could do some entire videos dedicated to some of these brands specifically. Another great brand from the past is Titus. Supposedly they're still big in Asia nowadays, though.
Very interesting and informative!
Umm its *Sir* Edmund Hillary mate....a New Zealand icon. Haha great video man keep it up.
Great video, I know about another brand that once was the biggest of the market, CYMA! It’s sad what happened with this amazing brands...
absolutely fantastic review! so sad to see the demise of these great names...
Well longines and zenith are also far from their best shape. All great brands to pick up a first vintage piece given everyone focuses on Rolex & co.
Great video
Teddy, Who was the watchmaker who was incorporating vintage Elgin pocket watch movements and incorporating them into large wrist pieces? The were very Art Deco and looked quite cool and got a lot of mention about 5 years ago.
I absolutely loved this video and especially the information on Neil Armstrong's relationship with the Wittnauer, which seemed oddly moving.
Hi Teddy, I love the video in the two intros that you are trying out but don't care for the audio in either one. For me, the audio in your original intro makes me think, "It is Teddy time!" I recommend keeping the original audio and adding new watch-related video to accompany it.
Hi Teddy, great channel... Really enjoy your content. A manufacturer which I think deserves more airtime is Ball watch co. How about doing a review and telling us what you think... Not sure if they really lost their way, but definitely not mainstream.
Thank you Teddy, awesome informative video as always. Love Wittnauer (old ones) 👍👍👀
thought for sure Vulcain would be on the list
Rotary and Timex
Another fine, interesting and informative video. Any possibility that Disco also played a role in their demise? Disco, quartz, velvet suits and platform shoes...talk about style.
Certainly worth another video .
Nice work on the history of these great Marques. I would add that Invicta and Movado were once great watch companies that are culturally lost (mostly) today.
Longines is also a shadow of what it used to be
Yet somehow, I'm still in love with my Longines Master Collection after a full year. Maybe their entire collection isn't what it used to be, but they still make incredibly beautiful and nice watches (e.g. Master Collection, Hydroconquest).
Sorry still love the Evidenza range,
With stupid name like long jeans no wonder its dying
How about Enicar. They had a great history involving Everest climbs with the Sherpa line but also fell victim to the Quartz crisis. They made great watches and also have a website that is lacking. Sadly, indicative of their modern offerings.
Great video Teddy. My parents gave me a Wittanauer when I was kid. I wish I still had it!
Thanks for yet another very interesting video, Teddy. I enjoy learning about the history of horology and particularly about American brands.👏
Might be off-topic, but what do you think about Junkers? I'm looking at purchasing one one of their ETA Bauhaus watches as an alternative to a Junghans (out of my price range) in terms of a German-made automatic watch.
Jonathan Morse Check out one of his last videos on German watches
ua-cam.com/video/DDzf-C-tRHY/v-deo.html
Junkers is probably made by what we call "private label" in the business. It's an assembler that makes watches for anybody from a certain number of ordered watches. A private label would make f.ex. 50 Teddy Baldassare watches in any quality he would like. What happened to Junghans escapes my knowledge. Junghans once was the third biggest watch- and clockmaker in the world and went into total bankruptcy lately. They sold their solar radio controlled ceramic watches much to expensive and were bought by the same Hong Kong investment group called Chromachron as Bulova was. What then happend to them, I ignore it completely.
Watch business is a dirty business and you should never believe what they are teliing to you in all these magazines! 99.99% are fake stories, since the watch industry died in 1983.
Thanks, I didn't realize he had talked about them in a video.
Thanks for the assist Maris!
Good stuff Teddy. I'm a a Brit and although not into vintage, if I see a Smiths I will be looking more closely. Had a few cars with Smiths instruments (erm yes I'm THAT old!), and was unaware they made watches until now. Many thanks.
Great informative video man.Would love to own an Universal Genive someday..
That intro...INSANELY beautiful shots and editing style. Damn, I gotta step it up!
True content....TRINIDAD tuned in bro
🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻🙌🏻
very informative. i certainly enjoy the history lesson
Thank you for watching, my friend!
Couldn’t agree more on your comments and wishes on the Universal Genève.
Thanks for The Smiths reference.Cheers Len.
I had no idea about the Smiths brand and will be looking to buy one, as I found a vintage one at around 40$.
What do you think of starting a new videos series related to brands from certain countries? For example, up until recently I had no idea that Romania produced watches in the '80s and '90s (brands like Orex, Optimef, Cromef). Optimef has been recently resurrected and has quite some interesting designs with Miyota Quartz movement.
Cheers from Romania!
The first time I came across a Universal Geneve Tri Compax it was love at first sight. But I wince at what the servicing costs would be.
Brands that have fallen off: Benrus, Gallet, Wakmann, and Revue Thommen.
Nice video history of watches ,have you ever heard of a watch brand Kaltron
Gruen is the ultimate "lost their way" brand.
Incredible - thx!
Thank you for tuning in as always Perry!
Great video.. Very informative! Learned quite a bit from this one.. And the universal geneve website is going the way of the dinosaurs once flash disappears.. Kind of sad
Seeing UG fall off is such a shame. They have some of my favorite wristwatches ever made. I am so surprised I don’t own one yet.
Would love for you to do a similar video about Cuervo Y Sobrinos. Very popular watch from Cuba.
Hey teddy. I am a 15 year old boy and am about 5' 9''. I have about a 8 inch wrist. I am trying to get into watches but am not going to wear a watch that is super expensive (over $1000). My best watch at the moment is the citizen sailhawk. As a present from my grandfather (watch collector with 2 pateks). What would you recommend that is simple and elegant around 40 mm and between $100-$200?
I have a Wittnauer. In fact I am wearing it right now. Never had a problem with the watch. I have had it for about 15 years
I know the guy who made the service for Universal. He told me they were totally chaotic and very money waisting. Some of the parts, he took them where he repaired the watches: At home. Universal didn't even know which parts they had and which not. They had the parts under another reference and didn't know it. To a customer who wanted to repair his cherished watch, they told him not being able to do this because of lack of parts -in fact, they had the parts without knowing it. My friend made good money working for them, like over 7'000$ per month, a free appartement in Geneva etc., but he got crazy with the management. They moved parts from Biel to Geneva and back again! It's mainly the fault of an incapable management that they failed.
Armstrong wore a Wittanauer All Sport during Gemini 8? I've never heard this before. I don't doubt you, but can you reveal the source of this information?
Nice informative video :-)
I'm a huge fan of UG, the Polerouter has to be one of the most beautifully balanced watches, well, in my opinion at least. To add to the "forgotten brands", I'd add Benrus and Gruen. The Skychief from Benrus and the 24 hour jump dial Airflight from Gruen are my favourites. Benrus now does a remake of the SkyChief, advertising a "swiss chrono movement", but the caseback of the watch says it's a Japanese automatic
Nice video,
I like the new intros
Sound the alarm, that intro is flames!!
Smith’s is interesting, in the 80s they were heavily involved with Formula One (in fact most iconic F1cars from the dawn of the competition till the early 0s had Smiths Instruments) yet didn’t use that platform to market watches, unlike Heuer who were bought in by McLaren to replace Smiths and did, also fostering a relationship with TAG resulting in the company we know today.
Elgin, Wyler, Waltham, Doxa
Favre leuba, Enicar
Any chance on a video about the best or most unknown Italian watch brands?
I LIKE THIS INTRO!!! *clapclapclap also any news about those watch straps?
Your intro and editing skill never disappoint, but to be honest I miss your old intro, It's super groovy.
New intro is great
im digging the new intro!
Love the Universal Geneve Chronograph, Sadly prices have jumped hugely over the last two years, I just can't afford, a watch that may be difficult or impossible to repair,
The Universal Genève bit reminded me of something we must always remember: "Investment" companies (like Stelux, BlackRock etc) are basically gamblers who either purchase stock and companies to make a VERY quick buck, cartels (or wannabe cartels), or patent trolls who scoop up intellectual property so that they'll blackmail real innovators through abusive lawsuits.
I love Wittnauer and the story behind it! I’ve also been trying to pick up the other two on eBay. Love the video Teddy
Well done
I was wondering what you know about the watch company, Austin. Does it fall in this group of watch brands that lost its way? also I
purchased an Austin Skindiver from the 1960s. How would I find out about this watch?
Thanks
The Eterna brand probably disappeared as well. They used to make a nice-looking chronograph with the 7750 movement.
Thought of reaching out to companies like Nomos? Could be a stretch, but if you could get hands-on reviews with the brand, you'd be taking advantage of an untapped market
There are literally hundreds of brands that collapsed in the period after the quartz crisis but have limped through and now survive a kind of half life as fashion brands these would include: invicta, charmex, ebel, ernst and borel, rotary, roamer, movado etc.
Hi Teddy, thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us.
But if I could please pick your brain & ask if you have heard any good &/or bad regarding the Tissot Powermatic 80 COSC Lady?
I am currently not working, but would like to get one for the partners 40th “if you think they’re ok” (& worth $1200 - $1300 AUD)
Any advise would be greatly appreciated 👍🍻
Thank for watching Simon! And what a great gift. So I actually did a video about women’s watches and I mentioned that exact watch. If you want my thoughts, I think they are great looking watches. One thing I would say is that you are paying a premium for that COSC rating. Generally I don’t think it is work the price increase, especially if your partner is not someone to care about that sort of thing. The regular automatic version can be had for quite a bit less. Just my thoughts!
Teddy Baldassarre, Thank you very much very much for your opinion (& reply).
With regards to the price difference (about $300 AUD) I thought it would be worth it (also get an extra years warranty)🤔
My partner does like mechanical watches (she loves her Seiko Sportura with open heart & exhibition case back), so I was trying to improve on that.
I will definitely look back on your videos to find the one you mentioned (any idea on time frame🤔👍)
Thanks again & best regards, Simon
I just purchased the mens version as my first "real" watch and I love it. Really beautiful work. If you want to find a bit of a lower price point but want that Swiss quality, you could check out Mathey-Tissot.
Bob Dole thanks Bob, glad you’re happy with yours.
Also, I will check that out!, thanks again 👍🍻
Universal, that was a bit tragic if you consider what they used to produce. Here's another one: Minerva, who was still producing until early 2000, then got sold a couple of times before ending in the Richemont stable, producing some of the movements for Montblanc. Very sad.
Hello, great video, are one interesting brand known as Sorna that had some nice pieces, the same with Cuervo y Sobrinos a brand from my country, Cuba
Can someone help me out with some information on a watch brand called GERALDY ? I found one the other day and had never heard of it. I have looked literally EVERYWHERE on the net to find any information on the watch or the company that made the watch to no avail. The only thing I saw was a couple of listings on eBay only and one site that had an online auction that had sold one back in 2008 for alittle north of $2,600 USD. This watch was sitting at a flea market for two dollars. Any information on the brand would be appreciated. Thank you in advance.
Kolbold sure went down in flames🔥
Wow. That was actually really sad.
What do you think of Fossil watches?
Crap. Bought one once. Never again.
I would add: Lucien Piccard. What do you think?
I remember seeing wittnauer commercials as a kid. I think one had a lady that kept saying I WANT A WITTENAUR or I WANTED A WITTENAUR. Made me really want one for myself lol
I am surprised you have yet to review the new timex automatic
It truly is about innovation & marketing
After WWII until the early 1970s, there was a brand in Switzerland which was more famous than OMEGA and ROLEX (by far!) had not even reached the elite of watchmaking. That brand was ROAMER from Solothurn and Grenchen. On one production site, there were more than 1,200 people producing everything from dials to cases, bracelets and of course manufactured mechanical Roskopf movements (please see below for its meaning). They were crushed by the Quartz revolution of the early 1970s and went nearly or totally bankrupt several times then. It is now owned by a Chinese Group from Hong Kong, perhaps with 20 or so workers and everything is subcontracted. It is a pale shadow of itself. And it will never be coming back because those who still remember those glorious days are more than 70 years old and are a dying breed now. Sad.
Fun fact. The rolex Explorer was not the first rolex on the mount. The explorer 1 came put 1 year after the climb
Movado also comes to mind.
New intro is cool as f*ck !!!