So there are many kits that give you 4 intake gaskets with the steel valley cover and I usually use them by putting a set on first put the steel valley cover pan on and then the other set of gaskets on top. Now I have seen some do that and seen people like you not do it and I got to say why would they send gaskets along with the pan if you did not need to use them?
Great engines, they really respond well to bolt on upgrades. Plus, a cam and some head work along with your bolt on headers, intake, and 750 carb will put you well into the 450+hp range.
This is a long shot but, I have a stock 383 which intake which headers and which carb do you recommend? I want it to be between 400-450hp I’ll be very happy
I always use the furnished paper gaskets directly under the aluminum intake when cast iron heads are used in order to maintain a good seal. Of course the manufacturer recommends doing so.
This is a good video….very similar to the Buick 455 with a few differences. I think I’ll do one on my channel to show the 455 valley pan install, I have it coming up soon. Interesting how these old blocks are so similar but also have their own unique things.
I use Copper Spray Gasket on the steel intake and head gaskets and little dabs of sealant in the corners of the block and heads. I have found pieces of silicone gasket sealer in oil pick-up screens from somebody applying too much, that's bad at high rpms.
Just FYI, Dupli-color ceramic cast coat aluminum #1650, makes an aluminum intake look like it just came out of the box. also, the background audio is distracting.
Great Chrysler engines. What are the size of the valley pan studs you used for aligning the pan? BTW- Can you make a video on ho to prime an engine with oil? From start to finish, finding TDC, inserting a priming tool (tricks if any), the whole job. Thanks
I have sort of a question; I used the same method for the install of the valley pan, RTV the corners of the steel gasket rails. I started the motor after installing the intake aswell and there is a HUGE vacuum leak from the mating surface from the Valley pan to the intake runner ports. Re-torque after reaching operating temperature I'm guessing? Or use somthing like Good/great stuff from permatex to lightly coat the intake mating surface? I used a differing torque sequence due to the manifold not being Edelbrocks manifold, Should i follow suit on the same torque sequence as the Edelbrock manifold also? Appreciate the answers Thanks.
Have you ever shown a video on doing some home porting & or unshrouding the valves?? I would like to watch that. Im a big block ford guy & have ported my smog D3VE-A2A 460 heads. I had them flow tested & I got improvment on all the lift heights on both intake & Exhoust all the way up to .700 lift. So I would be very interested in seeing how you might do such a head or a FE head. I know you work with FE's. Im putting together a 360 right now for my 71 f100 short box 4x4. Its getting the block decked for alil more compression & im using C6TE heads.
Have you ever put a good build parts list together for the 383 Chrysler? Assuming it’s for a 60s classic street cruiser. You said go with a roller cam and valve train. What specs would you have done on this 383?
Great video, I will be doing this for the first time within the next month, my new BB 383 motor came with the intake gaskets, I noticed you didn’t use them, are they not needed? I have a Holley Street Dominator intake with a new valley pan. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks
Does the factory install the steel type gaskets on intake manifolds with heads only snug on torque value. Install and tighten manifold then final torque cylinder heads?
Why would you bother putting a torque wrench on those idiot bolts at all? People are insane for pedantry on ridiculous shit. Next we'll be torquing the bell housing bolts, the engine mount bolts and torquing the radiator to the support panel lol. Better not forget to torque the hood to the hinges and torque the window winder handle screw to the window reg. I'll get the inch pound torque wrench out the fasten the dash pad screws .. Really! I wonder if there's a Chrysler tool for torquing the spare tire wingnut?
@@ThePaulv12 I understand what you say, me myself I never used a torque wrench for this, the point is I believe, the items like these, Chrysler had a recommended range for them. I was lucky, I never used one for the intake [followed the pattern though], never for the exhaust, carb etc. Some peole used Fel Pro blue gaskets with the metal pan, I tried it once, couldn't get the intake bolts to go in correctly
I like to block those heat holes that are in the center of the head since they are useless with a aftermarket Intake and if you get aftermarket heads they don't have those holes to heat the intake that was only good for cars ran in cold climate the heat would heat the manifold and make it run better in the winter but most people don't run their cars in the winter now days anyway and even if you do it really don't efect it that bad
On my 70 roadrunner I got the valley pan that blocks off the exhaust crossover so the intake isn’t 999999 degrees and there are no exhaust leaks from the intake and the fuel doesn’t boil as easy if you have an edelbrock
Does the valley pan you have also block the outer U-shape passage that isolates the head from the exhaust gases, or the U-shape passage is exposed just like in this video? Thx in advance
Ive rebuilt many 383's..Im surprised you didnt measure the lifter preload...I would not trust any thing to chance...I liked to have as little preload as possible..I got lifter pump up and ended up bending pushrods untill I went with crane antipump up lifters and that fixed the issue of incorrect lifter preload. Very stout motors, with the skirted block, Forged steel crank and connecting rods..all over kill for the stock HP ratings. When replacing the cast pistons (which would tend to seize the pins ) to forged units, these motors could handle 600 HP no problem as long as you didnt spin it over 6500 RPM.
you do need some heat to atomize the fuel when you have a cold engine getting the hot coolant out of the intake helps a ton also you can block off the EX crossover when building a higher performance engine
@@Myvintageiron7512 Fel Pro intake gasket #1214 has the carb heat blocked off, no hole. Doesn’t come in a gasket kit though, have to buy separately, about $30. Great video. 383s are under appreciated.
So would you say aluminum intake manifolds get less torque than the factory iron, or it just depends on the manufacturer's recommendation? I noticed my Holley Street Dominator (440) says to torque to 15 ft. lbs. and to progress to 30 ft. lbs. in 5 lb. increments. Also, always noticed with every aluminum intake I've used, there are washer scoring marks in it. I guess not a big deal, but I just use Grade 8 washers or greater so at least it scores the intake flatly and evenly.
Aluminum intakes do take less bolt torque than cast iron intakes. Steel flat washers have a rough edge side and a smooth edge side. The smooth edge side should go down towards the intake manifold.
Good morning from the 206. I’m new to the Mopar RB Big blocks and was just curious what are those exposed parabolic openings on the center intake ports of both heads for? They look like they would either cause a vacuum leak or spit fuel back out?
I'm watching videos as much as I can about doing the same intake manifold install on my 440. Everyone says not to use the paper gaskets that come with the pan, got it. But the Edelbrock instructions do say to use (their) gaskets for the intake to pan. Is there a reason not to?
I use the gaskets and that's because the Aluminum is going to move differently on the the gasket with hot and cold cycles then the factory cast iron intake plus the gaskets will give you a for sure seal where just the pan may give you or may not give you a for sure seal depending if there is no warpage or anything but I personally use them when using a aftermarket intake
Good post bro. I know you had budget to meet. Just FYI, Felpro makes a heat crossover delete valley pan gasket, that's much better when your stuck with an EGR intake like that one. Horrible design from Edelbrock. The delete gasket isn't any more expensive than the one you used here. And it makes a huge difference in acceleration on hot days or if the motor just runs hot.
383's are great engines that is what they turned into the 400 in the 70's all they did was bore it out and everything else was the same and the 400 big block has the biggest bore out of all the big block mopars including the 440
Your torqueing to steel intake spec. It's too high for aluminum. Edelbrock says use 25'lbs intake bolts. Other than that, Thanks. I just installed one and got some pointers from you.
Great work! have you ever used the composite/paper gaskets on the intake openings with aluminum intakes for big block mopar. love the mack shirt!, love the 383 got 3 of them ones in my 77 Cordoba.
@@grantdavidson3539 Yes that's what it came with but I took the 400 out cause it was smoking it had cracked pistons rings. I took a 71 383 and put it in place of the 400 since it was easy to do.
B block versus RB block. B block 3.375" stroke = 350, 361, 383, 400. RB block 3.75" stroke = 383, 413, 426, 440. Yes, there were both B and RB 383's - different bore/strokes. And yes, Chrysler made 350CID B blocks. B's had a 9.98" deck height, 6.358" rods, and the 2.625" mains. RB's had 10.75" deck, 6.768" rods and 2.75" mains. The distributor shaft was shorter on the B blocks than the RB's.
I was wondering the same thing. But I think it is an exhaust crossover to warm up the manifold. So on a stock engine it is filled with exhaust fumes, not antifreeze.
That's the heat riser passage to warm the intake on cold start. (The "inside", smaller hole... the outer U-shape is just to isolate the passage from the head.) There's a heat riser valve on the right factory exhaust manifold which is closed when cold; it forces and redirects exhaust gasses through the intake and on out the left exhaust manifold. When the riser valve heats up and opens, that hot exhaust simply stops flowing through the intake. Many aftermarket manifolds ignore that provision and don't use that open passage in the head; usually guys abandon the factory exhaust manifolds and use headers with no riser valve. This intake, however, has the heat riser passage - they have the thermostat well on the right side (for the choke thermostat) that measures the temperature of the intake riser passage as it's heated by exhaust gasses.
So Kerry, you do not use paper gaskets with an aluminum intake? Lots of strong opinions, and heated discussion on that topic. I personally do not either.
Great video, but that black manifold has got to go. I would have painted it engine color. My bone stock 69 RR manifold is engine color. But as long as your customer is happy with it is really all that matters. Looks like a Halloween to engine.
More Mopar big block! Yes! I have a .030 413 8.8.1 compression and a 230° @.050" cam runs 12.90s, these big blocks are an awesome engine.
Great vid ! Would love to see more vids on the 383 as I’m restoring a 69 RR. Love this channel and is the most detailed and informative I’ve seen .
Thanks! Will do!
ua-cam.com/video/GU4ba-KzRiI/v-deo.html
AWESOME video…. I’m actually doing this next week on my 413 from my 1964 Imperial Crown Coupe! This video helped a lot! 👍👍👍 Staten Island, New York.
That's gonna be raw power right there🔥
Sweet video! Very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to put this together.
Glad it was helpful!
So there are many kits that give you 4 intake gaskets with the steel valley cover and I usually use them by putting a set on first put the steel valley cover pan on and then the other set of gaskets on top. Now I have seen some do that and seen people like you not do it and I got to say why would they send gaskets along with the pan if you did not need to use them?
Great engines, they really respond well to bolt on upgrades.
Plus, a cam and some head work along with your bolt on headers, intake, and 750 carb will put you well into the 450+hp range.
This is a long shot but, I have a stock 383 which intake which headers and which carb do you recommend? I want it to be between 400-450hp I’ll be very happy
Great video, it provided all of the info. I needed.
Great video as always. Thanks 👍
I always use the furnished paper gaskets directly under the aluminum intake when cast iron heads are used in order to maintain a good seal. Of course the manufacturer recommends doing so.
This is a good video….very similar to the Buick 455 with a few differences. I think I’ll do one on my channel to show the 455 valley pan install, I have it coming up soon. Interesting how these old blocks are so similar but also have their own unique things.
How about an in-depth discussion of internal vs external balancing on the Mopar big block?
Big thanks to you. 👍
Great video Thank you
I use Copper Spray Gasket on the steel intake and head gaskets and little dabs of sealant in the corners of the block and heads.
I have found pieces of silicone gasket sealer in oil pick-up screens from somebody applying too much, that's bad at high rpms.
Just FYI, Dupli-color ceramic cast coat aluminum #1650, makes an aluminum intake look like it just came out of the box. also, the background audio is distracting.
Great Chrysler engines. What are the size of the valley pan studs you used for aligning the pan? BTW- Can you make a video on ho to prime an engine with oil? From start to finish, finding TDC, inserting a priming tool (tricks if any), the whole job. Thanks
I have sort of a question; I used the same method for the install of the valley pan, RTV the corners of the steel gasket rails.
I started the motor after installing the intake aswell and there is a HUGE vacuum leak from the mating surface from the Valley pan to the intake runner ports.
Re-torque after reaching operating temperature I'm guessing?
Or use somthing like Good/great stuff from permatex to lightly coat the intake mating surface?
I used a differing torque sequence due to the manifold not being Edelbrocks manifold, Should i follow suit on the same torque sequence as the Edelbrock manifold also?
Appreciate the answers Thanks.
Love your Mopar videos. Have you ever set up W-2 valve train on a small block Mopar?
Have you ever shown a video on doing some home porting & or unshrouding the valves?? I would like to watch that. Im a big block ford guy & have ported my smog D3VE-A2A 460 heads. I had them flow tested & I got improvment on all the lift heights on both intake & Exhoust all the way up to .700 lift. So I would be very interested in seeing how you might do such a head or a FE head. I know you work with FE's. Im putting together a 360 right now for my 71 f100 short box 4x4. Its getting the block decked for alil more compression & im using C6TE heads.
Have you ever put a good build parts list together for the 383 Chrysler? Assuming it’s for a 60s classic street cruiser. You said go with a roller cam and valve train. What specs would you have done on this 383?
My valley pan installation kit came with gaskets? How come we don’t use those?
Is it important to sonic test a block as well as magnafluxing it?
Great video, I will be doing this for the first time within the next month, my new BB 383 motor came with the intake gaskets, I noticed you didn’t use them, are they not needed? I have a Holley Street Dominator intake with a new valley pan. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks
Keep up the vids, want to see it installed & dynoed
It's simple mighty mopar period since the 60's
Does the factory install the steel type gaskets on intake manifolds with heads only snug on torque value. Install and tighten manifold then final torque cylinder heads?
I would like to know what intake is recommended for street /strip On a 383 challenger....and a good cam too...
No gaskets? Just the valley pan?
Hi , would a 1968 440 intake install be the same as the 383? Thank you , nicely done video.👍👍
What about the pan cover that was on my original, never been in, 1969 440?
What is the purpose of the middle port on the intake ? There are 4 intake ports what are the middle or fifth ones?
I wouldn't go more than 10 foot pounds of torque on those 1/4-20 bolts. You'll snap them off at 20
Yea, I wonder if he meant inch pounds...but I agree, not 20 foot pounds
Why would you bother putting a torque wrench on those idiot bolts at all? People are insane for pedantry on ridiculous shit.
Next we'll be torquing the bell housing bolts, the engine mount bolts and torquing the radiator to the support panel lol. Better not forget to torque the hood to the hinges and torque the window winder handle screw to the window reg.
I'll get the inch pound torque wrench out the fasten the dash pad screws .. Really!
I wonder if there's a Chrysler tool for torquing the spare tire wingnut?
@@ThePaulv12 I understand what you say, me myself I never used a torque wrench for this, the point is I believe, the items like these, Chrysler had a recommended range for them. I was lucky, I never used one for the intake [followed the pattern though], never for the exhaust, carb etc. Some peole used Fel Pro blue gaskets with the metal pan, I tried it once, couldn't get the intake bolts to go in correctly
@@ThePaulv12 man go take your prozac it aint that bad
@@JohnLittle-ze7sp I don't need a prozac but I see you could use a colonic herbal infusion!
I like to block those heat holes that are in the center of the head since they are useless with a aftermarket Intake and if you get aftermarket heads they don't have those holes to heat the intake that was only good for cars ran in cold climate the heat would heat the manifold and make it run better in the winter but most people don't run their cars in the winter now days anyway and even if you do it really don't efect it that bad
On my 70 roadrunner I got the valley pan that blocks off the exhaust crossover so the intake isn’t 999999 degrees and there are no exhaust leaks from the intake and the fuel doesn’t boil as easy if you have an edelbrock
Does the valley pan you have also block the outer U-shape passage that isolates the head from the exhaust gases, or the U-shape passage is exposed just like in this video? Thx in advance
@@iacceptcash9258 it’s like every other pan except the exhaust opening is closed
Ive rebuilt many 383's..Im surprised you didnt measure the lifter preload...I would not trust any thing to chance...I liked to have as little preload as possible..I got lifter pump up and ended up bending pushrods untill I went with crane antipump up lifters and that fixed the issue of incorrect lifter preload. Very stout motors, with the skirted block, Forged steel crank and connecting rods..all over kill for the stock HP ratings. When replacing the cast pistons (which would tend to seize the pins ) to forged units, these motors could handle 600 HP no problem as long as you didnt spin it over 6500 RPM.
No intake gaskets?
Chrysler have been getting the heat away from there intakes...
meanwhile the camera is starring right at the exhaust intake manifold heater...
you do need some heat to atomize the fuel when you have a cold engine getting the hot coolant out of the intake helps a ton also you can block off the EX crossover when building a higher performance engine
@@Myvintageiron7512 I know ;). just couldn't resist ;)
@@Myvintageiron7512 Fel Pro intake gasket #1214 has the carb heat blocked off, no hole. Doesn’t come in a gasket kit though, have to buy separately, about $30. Great video. 383s are under appreciated.
@fpeletz Oh that’s right, I remember those.
So would you say aluminum intake manifolds get less torque than the factory iron, or it just depends on the manufacturer's recommendation? I noticed my Holley Street Dominator (440) says to torque to 15 ft. lbs. and to progress to 30 ft. lbs. in 5 lb. increments. Also, always noticed with every aluminum intake I've used, there are washer scoring marks in it. I guess not a big deal, but I just use Grade 8 washers or greater so at least it scores the intake flatly and evenly.
Aluminum intakes do take less bolt torque than cast iron intakes. Steel flat washers have a rough edge side and a smooth edge side. The smooth edge side should go down towards the intake manifold.
Good morning from the 206. I’m new to the Mopar RB Big blocks and was just curious what are those exposed parabolic openings on the center intake ports of both heads for? They look like they would either cause a vacuum leak or spit fuel back out?
nope just a heat sink they go no where
When do we get to hear that 383 run ?
Is there a way to fit a 440/413 intake onto a low deck 383/400 engine? There's a port injection system I want, but it only comes for the RB engines.
Sorry, no, vice versa, B intake on a RB, yes but not RB intake on a B.
I'm watching videos as much as I can about doing the same intake manifold install on my 440. Everyone says not to use the paper gaskets that come with the pan, got it. But the Edelbrock instructions do say to use (their) gaskets for the intake to pan. Is there a reason not to?
I use the gaskets and that's because the Aluminum is going to move differently on the the gasket with hot and cold cycles then the factory cast iron intake plus the gaskets will give you a for sure seal where just the pan may give you or may not give you a for sure seal depending if there is no warpage or anything but I personally use them when using a aftermarket intake
Yeah, like these short little instructive vids too. As well as the in-depth ones. Sans talk show radio in the background next time eh? 😎
Yes by all means use heat treated WASHERS . GUYS 🤠 .
Good post bro. I know you had budget to meet. Just FYI, Felpro makes a heat crossover delete valley pan gasket, that's much better when your stuck with an EGR intake like that one. Horrible design from Edelbrock. The delete gasket isn't any more expensive than the one you used here. And it makes a huge difference in acceleration on hot days or if the motor just runs hot.
Cool, thanks
383's are great engines that is what they turned into the 400 in the 70's all they did was bore it out and everything else was the same and the 400 big block has the biggest bore out of all the big block mopars including the 440
Your torqueing to steel intake spec. It's too high for aluminum. Edelbrock says use 25'lbs intake bolts. Other than that, Thanks. I just installed one and got some pointers from you.
Great work! have you ever used the composite/paper gaskets on the intake openings with aluminum intakes for big block mopar. love the mack shirt!, love the 383 got 3 of them ones in my 77 Cordoba.
I have, a couple of times. For me, it messed up the bolt alignment for bolting the intake down
Didn't make the 383in 77 the 400
Was
@@grantdavidson3539 Yes that's what it came with but I took the 400 out cause it was smoking it had cracked pistons rings. I took a 71 383 and put it in place of the 400 since it was easy to do.
Neat
Do you have any videos on checking piston to valve clearance
ua-cam.com/video/-LNy1y9Ooqs/v-deo.html
The instructions say 25 ft lbs. Why are you going to 40? Is 40 for the factory cast iron intake?
I often wondered if there was any difference between a 383 and a 440, always learning , oi oi oi
B block versus RB block. B block 3.375" stroke = 350, 361, 383, 400. RB block 3.75" stroke = 383, 413, 426, 440. Yes, there were both B and RB 383's - different bore/strokes. And yes, Chrysler made 350CID B blocks. B's had a 9.98" deck height, 6.358" rods, and the 2.625" mains. RB's had 10.75" deck, 6.768" rods and 2.75" mains.
The distributor shaft was shorter on the B blocks than the RB's.
yes Good info this 383 is a B
The port in middle of heads between intake holes. Its not for antifreeze?
I was wondering the same thing. But I think it is an exhaust crossover to warm up the manifold. So on a stock engine it is filled with exhaust fumes, not antifreeze.
What is the deal with the open gap in the heads between the intakes? Idk much about mopar engines
That's the heat riser passage to warm the intake on cold start. (The "inside", smaller hole... the outer U-shape is just to isolate the passage from the head.) There's a heat riser valve on the right factory exhaust manifold which is closed when cold; it forces and redirects exhaust gasses through the intake and on out the left exhaust manifold. When the riser valve heats up and opens, that hot exhaust simply stops flowing through the intake. Many aftermarket manifolds ignore that provision and don't use that open passage in the head; usually guys abandon the factory exhaust manifolds and use headers with no riser valve. This intake, however, has the heat riser passage - they have the thermostat well on the right side (for the choke thermostat) that measures the temperature of the intake riser passage as it's heated by exhaust gasses.
@@easygoing2479 ooo ok. My old qjet i had on my sbc had one built in for cold starts
Are shaft mounted rockers worth the extra cost?
YES
So Kerry, you do not use paper gaskets with an aluminum intake? Lots of strong opinions, and heated discussion on that topic. I personally do not either.
Its all about "the budget" until you gotta do it twice...
Great video, but that black manifold has got to go. I would have painted it engine color. My bone stock 69 RR manifold is engine color. But as long as your customer is happy with it is really all that matters. Looks like a Halloween to engine.
It is very easy to make a 383 unhappy on the street with too much duration.
PLEASE ! I WANT TO SEE A MOPAR 383 STROKER KIT INSTALLATION TO 496 CUBES !
ALSO A SIMILAR VIDEO ON A PONTIAC !!!