1776 VW Engine (Air Cooling Tips)
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- Опубліковано 16 кві 2019
- If your Air Cooled VW engine runs hot here are a few Idea's to help. I'm waiting on a generator for my 1776 Engine project and cover all sorts of things getting ready for the first Start up. • Volkswagen Cooling Fan...
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Really good point on the heat riser tube needing a pressure differential, flowing from a high pressure point to a low pressure point. So many times vw engines with center mount carb set ups are having the carb and it's jetting chased after, trying to get a flat spot out when its not the issue...it's a cold manifold. When we vaporize fuel in the carb, we refrigerate the mixture as it leaves the carb, chilling the manifold. Fuel will condense out of mixture and cling to the cold walls of the manifold, causing the mixture to go lean, making drivability poor, especially at lower rpm.
We often get so focused on the fact that cold air is denser and produces more HP, but a cold, center mounted carb/manifold can not be tuned correctly. Dual carbs with the manifold bolted directly to the hot cylinder head. The factory used a intake air preheater to try and warm up the carb a bit, in effort to keep the fuel in suspension in route the cylinder. Water cooled car engines use manifold heat to heat the area directly beneath the carb for the same reason.
I'd like to try using a plate mounted under the carb with oil circulated through it...heating the base of the center mounted carb and the manifold and cooling the engine oil...both needed on the performance air cooled VW engine.
Great Comment. You win a virtual Burrito
@@TheEZGZ now that is a prize! Mmmm burrito
Terrific insight. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge!
There is another issue with the intake system. The centre mount comes down and then has to make a 90 turn to either side. The velocity of the fuel droplets would tend to cause them to hit the wall directly at the bottom of the downtube resulting in "puddling" at that point in the intake tract. The heated manifold would help re-vapourize that fuel. It is a common issue in high-performance engines (V-8s) with high velocity into the intake plenum, especially at higher RPMs, or any engine with sharp turns in the intake, as well.
Once the fuel is in the air stream after the turn, the rough surface of the casting actually helps to re-atomize the fuel through turbulence in the boundary layer. This is why you don't polish the intake ports or manifold like the exhaust side in racing or performance porting, you smooth it but leave a slightly rough finish to promote this turbulence.
The preheated air helps another issue, carburettor icing. As the air moves through the venturi it "refrigerates", as you said, with the air temperature dropping dramatically. The air can drop below freezing, even on extremely hot days, causing any humidity to freeze on the metal and can actually build up to the point of choking off the airflow. (I had this issue with a Datsun on hot, humid days until I put a pre-heat tube on it.) The more a carb increases velocity through the venturi, the worse the problem. The pre-heated air eliminates this issue by raising the incoming air temperature since manifold heat doesn't normally heat the carb itself enough, especially with a gasket or phenolic spacer insulating the carb from the intake manifold.
I don't really understand the cooling mechanism in an air cooled VW, but the explanation given here is worthwhile reading. Bravo!!!
“ Chrome won’t get you home, baby”
Great line
From back in my Harley day's :-)
That's how aircooled engine suppose to look like, Ferdinand is looking from above and is giving🤘.
I hope your right. Seems like he has been shaking his fist lately. LOL
Dr. Porsche, indeed, should always be thanked and fondly remembered by all VW devotees.
Most under rated saying, but oh so true, ' CHROME DONT GET YOU HOME". I say it all the time. Thanks as always for your great VW tips. You are a huge asset to the community.
A huge asset, indeed. Thank you so much for so many helpful tips.
As Always Buddy, another Awesome Video. Way to stay cool in the VW engine department. Parts are here time to go. Thanks again for letting us in the EZGZ Garage. BigW:-)
I'm tired of wrenching I need to drive to the therapist in my VW
I LOVE THESE VIDEOS.. Im currently building 2 rail buggys in the garage. and usually watch your videos per what we are working on. keep up the good work sir!!!!
Sounds like twice as much fun. I would still be in the sand if I lived closer and had a buddy to run with.
Another great video, thanks for all your hard work to share your wealth of knowledge. Keep them coming, cheers up my day when I get an EZGZ notification in the email.
Your very kind Graham. Thank you for your comment and support!
Great video once again. Really appreciate all of the little tips that help us stay on the road longer. Can’t wait to hear it fire up!!
Coming right up :-)
Can’t wait to hear it run!!
Good stuff Greg looking forward to the running engine.
It's sounds sooooooo sweeeeeet !
Very COOL explanation of a bad fan setup, love the xmas time package opening, you look like me when ups and FedEx were bringing boxes nearly everyday during the build, very COOL buddy!
I can hear those UPS trucks a block down the street and come running to see if it's stops again at my house. Always disappointing when it goes on by. LOL
EZ, your excitement about life is uplifting. Your love for air cooled Volkswagens is so heartfelt and motivating. I appreciate your awesome attitude very much as we all do, I'm sure. John.
Your having fun. Glad for you. Great info your sharing.
Thanks for coming along. :-)
G'day Kevin from Australia this series is coming along nicely I'm looking forward to the break in. 👍
It was the break in from Hell......
my mom told me a story, that in the 70s they drug a buggy around the block until the fly wheel had clearance, her husband at the time was a parts manager at a vw dealership
Getting close. Man, you had a full day!!
You got that right, hehehe come back for the test run :-) good to see you here.
Thanks for all your videos. Very helpful. Just dropped the motor out of my bug.
Let the mess Begin !!!!!! Welcome to my world. hehehe
Great info!! Love your own style on life! Thx for the video, makes my day much better. :)
Just having you say that made my day better. Thanks
That engine is looking good👍😊
Thanks buddy :-)
EzGz your getting close I can almost hear the sweet sound only a boxer engine can make:) how exciting I'm sure you cant wait to fire it up and take it out on the road!
I've been listening to it all morning. hehehe It's coming to you on Sat :-)
@@TheEZGZawesome! hows it purring?
Your videos are so good!
Glad you like them!
Nice to see someone using the specifically engineered flaps and thermostat system!! It seems everyone takes them out and pretends they know better! I have had a hard time trying to find the complete system to put back on my engine, but no one seems to keep them after they remove them. Thanks for the tips!
I here ya. Many times the parts are worn out when I do find them. If you lived in a warm year around climate and drove occasionally it''s probably not that big a deal. If it were there just wouldn't be so many around. Running engines I mean. Seams like even with today's anaerobic sealers these engines leak sooner or later. The lack of temperature control just makes things weep sooner. Good Luck with your projects
Looking good! Seems like 90% of rebuilding these motors is cleaning parts. End result is worth every hour spent. Looking forward to hearing it run. Have a great day!
Rebuilding the very old and very used stuff is a lot of work for sure.Thanks for joining me on the journey
@@TheEZGZ Learned a lot from you! Got a virgin AK case last year that I'm making into an 1835 for my 60 Kombi. I have 2 sets of 92s and I like your philosophy of using what you got 😉😁
If they are the old style thin wall 92's I wouldn't consider it for a Kombi. Go with the AA (90.5 A) pistons for longer life and cooler running unless your just putting around town easy most of the time. IMHO
@@TheEZGZ they are the thin walls. I only drive it locally less then 500 miles a year. I have 2 sets. One Mahle and one AA. When the first set goes, I'll use the second set. When they go I'll fix it properly. Thanks again and have a great day!
Engine looks nice. I need to finish my sandrail build. Wish I had as many parts you got.
Swap meet is coming up. VW on the Green in Denver next month
Very good
With any parts, you can take them to the local engine shop and have them hot-tanked and bead blasted (don't bead-blast blocks). It costs a few bucks, but gives a great looking, clean part, and actually improves ports a small amount.
Good idea. I just don't know of any close by. I really don't trust most shops with my VW stuff. They act like it's just junk and throw it around like its cast iron. grrrrrrr Oh well, clean projects are more fun to work on for sure.
i was thinking of a putting on singleport a 1679 (thickwalled) or a 1776 singleport on a friends camper,i showede my buddy your videos and it looks like its a go,its original 1600 dualport does'nt give good mileage and runs very hot
GREAT IDEA ON THE ENGINE STARTER ! i HAVE BENT A PIECE OF TUBING ON MY OFF ROAD TRI MIL BROUGHT IT IN THE ELBOW OF THE BEND WHERE IT GOES UP TO THE COLLECTOR SO HEAT RISER PASSENGER SIDE DOWN 90 UNDER RUN PARALLEL TOWARD DRIVER SIDE 90 INTO THE 180 BEND THAT GOES TO THE COLLECTER WORKS WELL, YOU HAVE THAT RUSH OF EXHUAST THAT IS PULLING AIR
What kind of metal or tubing did you use? I have been looking at 1/2 in. electrical conduit because I can bend it but that stuff is junk
@@TheEZGZI used a stock DP manifold to mach it up solid block off plates drilled them out the put my single 40 manifold on so I knew it would fit any thing ,5/8" .049 mild steel electric weld if i did it again i would use 3/4" i had the 5/8, and i had a die for 5/8" for my bender! I have a stainless one i want to do before my Colorado trip.i wish you could post pictures on here ! i made a UA-cam video on buggy wiring stuff but haven't had time to figure out editing
The one thing that air-cooled VW enthusiasts do is to remove the air flaps, linkage and thermostat from the fan shroud and engine. It is believed by many that the air flaps restrict cooling air from the engine, this is un-true. The cooling flaps control and direct airflow over the engine cylinders as needed to maintain the proper operating temperature of the engine and to redirect airflow through the exhaust heat exchangers to provide heat for the driver an passengers. When the flaps are fully opened there is no restriction of cooling airflow. Removing the air flaps can prevent the engine from reaching proper operating temperature and possibly reduce overall engine performance and longevity.
your singing to the choir
You can cool it you can cool it cool it (insert catchy tune) :)
LOL!
We're waiting......
Great video thanks for all the knowledge that you have your very thorough thank you
Thanks Mike. I appreciate your support
Hi EZ, could you solve the problem with the type3 tins in combination with the lower tins? By the way, they also collide with the two little vertical left and right end tins. I simply took a tin scissors (is that the correct word? I´m sorry...) and cut material of. Do you know how stock tin on a type3 looks like? Don´t they have the lower tins? Thanx for another great video. oh...did I understand you right? You ordered parts from csp in Germany? I use their black bolt on valve covers on my 68 notch. You will be very happy with quality and results, believe me. Bjoern from Germany
ALWAYS time for a burrito
One question, what carb are you planing to run on the 1776 single port, and what cam are you running?
¡Gracias!
Mucho Gracias Amigo!
Rust, dust and grease is life !
indeed
Great topic, if you can't keep it cool it won't last long.
You got that right. Thanks Loyd Have a great day my friend!
Sand blasting of course works best but a golf brush like this might do the trick to clean the fan and maybe some carb cleaner
Sorry link didn't post in the main comment
Get that man a burrito 🌯
I'm having one for breakfast right now! LOL
For all the great work ya do sir, you deserve ALL the burritos 👍
Where did you see that big crankshaft pulley for more cooling ?
Good question, I forgot now. A friend of mine had a flyer in the mail and showed it to me. I will look around for it.
when the wife goes out, I use the dishwasher....shhhhh :)
Our dirty little secret cleans up well.
Not the breast tin, it is called the front tin. The breast tin is behind the crank pulley.
Another great video. regarding the porsche 356 pulley, does that mean if you fit a power pulley on the crank shaft and the porsche pulley to the alternator/generator then the fan will run at the proper speed for engine cooling? but you'll still get the horsepower increase (however small) from the power pulley?
Or did I completely miss understand.
You have the right idea but you will have to have a external oil cooler to drive on the road. Most guys did the power pulley or took the belt off for drag racing. Every little bit helps. A high AMP alternator with your lights on and big amp stero takes power away from your engine just like a AC pump.
Things like power pulley, lightened flywheel, higher cylinder compression, dual carbs, ratio rocker arms can really wake up a 1600 engine. Makes if feel like a mild 1776.It all depends on what you want and how you use it.
So, something like 1.25 or 1.40 rocker arms should be on my list for future upgrades. How about a central two barrel carb instead of twin carbs? would that work just as well? I just prefer the look of a central carb.
1.25 with dual carbs. If you try a single center mount your troubles will be worse trying to get heat into that center manifold
Arrrr that makes sense, and checking on them, duel carbs are about the same price as a decent twin throat central carb.
Plus the carb I really fancy trying (Holley bugspray) are as rare as rocking horse poo here in the UK.
Where did you get your exhaust?
I have had mine for years. www2.cip1.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=717
What could I do to boost up my 1600c engine? Is bying a 2L engine my best option, or is 1600cc possible to upgrade that it will have enough power for daily use?
If your 1600cc engine is worn out then you should rebuild it or look for a better one. VW made 1200 and 1300 and 1500 and 1600. All were good for daily use and they sold them by the millions!
@@TheEZGZ My engine (in a buggy) is actually brand new, with electronic ignition, and double carbs from Weber but I feel, the motor should have more punch specially in the high end. My question was more like that, what is your opinion: is upgrading 1600cc with porting, a new cam and modifying compression ratio worth doing (how much power is it able to get from 1600c) or would it make sense to just buy 2L and continue with that?..
You might try adding 1.25 ratio rockers if your engine is otherwise stock engine. If you want higher RPM you will need to add at least heavy duty valve springs to go with that. Anything you do to increase high end will take away from low end. You can get 80 to 90 HP from 1600 but it just won't have the torque of 2L . When you say 2L do you mean type . 1 engine or T4? There is no replacement for displacement. It depends on how much you want to spend. Bigger is usually better. If your Webers are IDF they will work on bigger engine. If that are single 34's not so much better on 1600. In my buggy (sandrail) I run 2276 and sometimes want more power. In my (street buggy) 2L is more than enough and I am boing to put this 1776 build in it to test for better mileage and low end power. Watch more of my other video's to get a better idea of what will work best for you. Have Fun and Good Luck!
👍 You forgot to put on your apron.
Thanks for checking in Romeo
Um, please don't cut the cyl. tin edges if you are putting the motor in a stock beetle/bus(not Baja). Those square edges fit into the engine compartment seal "V" and are an important part of keeping heat out of the engine compartment and critical to cooling.
You are correct but I have 3 cars with no engine compartment. Baja, Dune buggy and lastly a sandrail.
Zinc additive at a minimum!!!!
I don't bother with it on break in. Maybe I should. When break in is done then I go for the Z
1776 on a single port engine , clueless , absolutely clueless
Your ignorance is so obvious. You have never built and driven one so your just speculating and your wrong. Post a video of what you run and teach us.
@@TheEZGZ my first car was a 67 bug , dual port 1776 and i've had numerous bugs all my life , you are one of the wanna-be's shade tree mechanics who buy one and totally screw up the wiring , along with most everything else in a pathetic attempt to do something mechanical and fulfil some stupid vision in your head . i've forgotten more about ' da bug ' and probley most of life than you'll ever know . it's disrespectful cretins like you that think you know something , when you know just enough to be dangerous . i'm installing my 1600 dual port engine back in my 70 bug today , ....i'd have to watch all your videos but i'm pretty sure i would learn little . go pay for therapy instead of making worthless videos and subjecting the rest of us to your ' assumed ' knowledge .