I just did the passenger side wheel bearing on my 2003 TL and your video walked me through the process (I paused it many times lol), specially with the kit and how the pieces fit together and their individual functions. Thanks so much for spending the time to put this together.
I couldn't even imagine what a shop would charge to do something like this! Definitely saving money going all DIY edit: I own an 06 Acura TL base and the original owner put 20 in rims (bigger rims in the back and thinner in the front) but he also tore up the front fenders. So Ive got new 18x8.5 for the front and 18x9.5 for the rears, he had stock suspension and I worry since he didn't know what he was doing I'm going to have to replace tie rods, put camber kits, coilovers, and I'll probably also swap out the wheel bears (I'll fork out the money for new hubs) and replace as much suspension parts as possible (upper and lower ball joints) I feel like the previous owner messed the suspension up using a stock set up (no camber kits in either front or rear) and running too big of rims with different type of tires, on the rear he has 265/30/20 on passenger rear and 275/30/20 on the rear driver side wheel. For the front driver side 235/35/20 and passenger side 245/35/20. Not sure if he got a deal or what or got confused but the alignment was way off and the shop said they wouldn't be able to align the car properly with different sized tires on both rear and front rims. I'm going down to 18's (18x8.5 for the front) and (18x9.5 for rears) the Acura has 173,000 miles. The engine and transmission are strong and in good working order. But this whole rim and tire thing has me wondering what the previous owners thought process was, so while it may not need new ball joints, shocks and struts, since I don't have to fix up the engine or transmission I'll ensure it rides smooth and without complications. I've already gotta replace the front two fenders due to the way he tried to "roll them" but at the price he sold it to me and given the fact the ac works amazing, the interior isn't a disaster, and the engine and transmission are running strong, investing in handling isn't a big deal as I already planned to put coilovers on it and Ive got buddies who have the tools and know how to help.. just gotta budget for beer after getting my parts lol. Great video though
Thank-you to showing me how to do this and I don't need a lot of the fancy and expensive tools to remove and install the bearing. It was a lot of intensive labor but I think I can work on my car. Thanks again.
nice video!, i did this with hand tools, same process, same press kit, but i used basic hand tools and a table vice. the hardest part was getting the snap ring off if its at all corroded around the hols for the tool, it may break the snap ring eyes off, it happens, just use your best hammer and flat tip to get the snap ring out, buy a replacement just in case . they are really cheap. its worth it, it took me 4 hours to find one locally without hitting up a junk yard for one. :)
I love your video very informative. I have to do this for a 2016 Honda CRV. Should be a similar process. The only thing I do different when pressing in new bearings, I put them in the freezer overnight it makes them slide in so much easier. And old-timer showed me that years ago. Again thanks for the video!!!!
you prolly dont care at all but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..? I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
Why wouldn't you have applied a grease or lubricant to the new bearing and the hud spindle to aid the installation - also a little anti-seize to all the fasteners as you reassemble the car would aid In things coming apart for future repairs - especially if the car is in a salty winter environment
The bearing and spindle went in plenty easy, no real need to lubricate it. If you wanted to use some sort of grease I’m sure you could. And I only use anti seize on things that are routinely worked on, such as the brakes.
Bro, I think you just saved me! I bought a 20 ton press to remove the bearing but I had no idea how to remove the hub from the knuckle without an insanely expensive grappler. I'm going to try this method with the two jack stands and a hammer. How big of a hammer do you need? I have a small sledgehammer but I don't know the weight. Thanks!!!!
Being that I own a 2001 TL, I just became a new subscriber to your channel. Have you had any issues with broken lug studs? I would love to see your suggestions on how to go about replacing studs. Also, if one breaks, should I replace all studs? Please advise.
I have never broken a lug. These usually only break in instances of excessive torque, which is why torquing the lug nuts is important, but they can break sometimes due to extreme rust as well. Replacing the studs are cheap and easy to do. You don't need to replace them all, but it might be recommended because even torque on the studs is important for safety. If some studs are clean and the others are rusty, dirty, or simply worn down, that will create uneven effective torque amongst the studs. You'll need to remove the wheel, brake caliper and bracket, and the rotor. Then rotate the hub to where there is clearance out the back for the stud to be removed. Sometimes the heat shield can get in the way and may need to be bent to create that clearance. Take a big sledge hammer and simply wack it out. Then to install it, you'll take an oversized nut to act as a spacer, put it over the stud, then screw your lug nut on after that, and tighten the lug nut to pull the new stud in until it's completed seated in position. Hope this helped! Good luck and thank you for watching and subscribing!
Thanks for your reply. In my case the head of the stud crashes with the hub assembly before reaching the heat shield. I was wondering if yours was the same.
It’s been a while since I did this job and I can’t say I remember exactly what I did. It’s possible I either grabbed the top portion of the knuckle and pulled down, or what it looks like you could also do is take a large pliers and squeeze the knuckle and lower control arm together to prevent the bolt from spinning. I remember it wasn’t very easy but what I do remember as mentioned in the video is using an impact helped a lot
Another trick to put bearings on easier. Put the bearings in the freezer overnight. Put the wheel hub in the oven at 150-200 degrees Fahrenheit. The difference in metal expansion makes a huge difference. The only thing is you may have to remove the wheel speed sensor so that it doesn’t melt.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimpleI didn’t mean to imply that you didn’t do a good job. You did a great job! You’re definitely a good mechanic not only do you fix it, but you diagnosed it correctly.. that’s hard to do sometimes. Nice job and great video. Thanks! I learned a lot watching it!
I have a 2004 TL and mine is making the same sound as the one you showed while you turn. I can’t tell if I need to replace the bearing or if it’s something else.
If it’s only making the scraping sound when you turn, that’s just the rotor heat shield scraping against the rotor. You can usually just bend it back slightly so it’s not touching anymore.
I have the exact same car and color. First person on UA-cam I’ve seen with the same car. Anyway I just hit 200k miles on the car. Any suggestions or maintenance I should do ahead of time?
Bailey Webb Awesome job on 200k! I would make sure you keep up on fluid maintenance! Especially the transmission fluid. Use Honda DW-1, do a 3-quart drain-and-fill every 15k miles, and change the exterior spin on ATF filter every 30k miles. I made a video on it!
I always keep the bearing i the freezer. After heating up the knuckle, there is no problem dropping the ice cold bearing in without any kind of force...
Thanks for letting me know. It appears the exact socket I used in this video (4936) has been discontinued by Tekton since making this video. I updated the link in the description which corresponds with the new part number.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Np, My bearing driver side is also bad and I'm going to follow your video as a guide. Although, I might keep the knuckle intact and use a slide hammer. Your video is awesome! Keep it up, I mean in a good way - not when cars break down of course. I would love to see a video of you doing the timing belt and water pump.
This isn’t the way to do this job with that tool. Upright stays put. Turn wheel, Remove axle, hub, snap ring, press bearing out and new one in. May need bearing splitter or dremel to remove hub from bearing. If you take the upright all off it defeats the tool just take it to a shop with a press. Use heat. Emory cloth fine, bearing in freezer. M1 synthetic grease on bearing and upright. Impact on nut not bolt from instructions.
I tried this tool and then a 20-ton press. Then I tried both with a torch, but it still wouldn't come out. I ended up cutting out the bearing to remove it.
yeah I saw I mentioned at 15:40 that was probably one of the hardest parts of this job. If you use a pickle fork, be aware that those will most likely destroy the rubber boot and you’ll need to replace the ball joint. Not a lot of information out there on how to do that other than the whole situation sounds like a PITA. Just something to look into and think about before using a pickle fork. I would just smack the f*** out of the knuckle as hard as you can as I showed in the video. Remember, the knuckle is made to support this 3500lb vehicle going 145mph, you’re not gonna hurt it.
I'm not sure which socket you're talking about, but I used a 36mm socket for the spindle nut, and I used a 1-1/4" socket for the wheel bearing tool kit. Hope that answers your question!
It depends on which seller you selected prior to purchase. Keep in mind, everyday people like you and me can sell stuff on Amazon too. If you select "Amazon.com" or the manufacturer of the product being sold, you shouldn't have a problem. But yes you can also get this bearing from RockAuto for slightly cheaper but shipping will take an extra couple days.
Well luckily for this car, NGK only makes one wheel bearing for it. So there should be no worry ordering a wrong part. But that’s good to know for other vehicles!
I guess I’m confused about there being “play” in the steering with a bad bearing. I’ve never heard of that and never experienced it either. Just doesn’t make any sense considering the bearing only controls rotation and the hub and bearing are all held in place by the axle nut…
Well, now you’ve heard of it haha if you look at 2:35, you can see the wheel is visibly moving due to the worn out bearing. This can cause a variety of vibrations, noises, and since the wheel is literally loose and has play, it can throw off the alignment causing the vehicle to pull to one side.
Very nice! 👍👍 I'm the original owner of my '02 TL-S and I'm still loving it. 😁
Thanks for the video!
CitizenPerkins you’re welcome! And that’s awesome! This is my first car and I’ve owned it for 8 years now and absolutely love it as well!
Also the original owner of a 02 TL-S, right out of college, and is my daily now. Also picked up an RDX recently.
I just did the passenger side wheel bearing on my 2003 TL and your video walked me through the process (I paused it many times lol), specially with the kit and how the pieces fit together and their individual functions. Thanks so much for spending the time to put this together.
I'm glad my video helped you! Great job on a difficult project!
Just got mine replaced on same side to!! Same year as urs 02 tl
I wanna thank you for explaining it in great detail sir. Excellent video.
you're very welcome! I'm glad it was helpful!
Excellent Video, very detailed and great for dyi. Good job!
today I'm going change my 2002 Acura cl front wheel bearing as well. thanks for posting your video helpful
You're welcome! I hope my video helps make the process go smoothly!
You are the man, man. Gonna be watching this a lot today replacing my driver side bearing in my 01 Cl-S. Fingers crossed!
Awesome! It ain’t easy but just keep going at it! You’ll do great!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I have my dad to help me along as well. 👍
Two things....snap ring pliers work better and putting the bearings in the freezer a few hours before usually helps. Good video.
Thanks for the pro tips! I never heard of snap ring pliers! The freezer is also a good idea. Luckily the bearing went in pretty easy for me!
I couldn't even imagine what a shop would charge to do something like this! Definitely saving money going all DIY edit: I own an 06 Acura TL base and the original owner put 20 in rims (bigger rims in the back and thinner in the front) but he also tore up the front fenders. So Ive got new 18x8.5 for the front and 18x9.5 for the rears, he had stock suspension and I worry since he didn't know what he was doing I'm going to have to replace tie rods, put camber kits, coilovers, and I'll probably also swap out the wheel bears (I'll fork out the money for new hubs) and replace as much suspension parts as possible (upper and lower ball joints) I feel like the previous owner messed the suspension up using a stock set up (no camber kits in either front or rear) and running too big of rims with different type of tires, on the rear he has 265/30/20 on passenger rear and 275/30/20 on the rear driver side wheel. For the front driver side 235/35/20 and passenger side 245/35/20. Not sure if he got a deal or what or got confused but the alignment was way off and the shop said they wouldn't be able to align the car properly with different sized tires on both rear and front rims. I'm going down to 18's (18x8.5 for the front) and (18x9.5 for rears) the Acura has 173,000 miles. The engine and transmission are strong and in good working order. But this whole rim and tire thing has me wondering what the previous owners thought process was, so while it may not need new ball joints, shocks and struts, since I don't have to fix up the engine or transmission I'll ensure it rides smooth and without complications. I've already gotta replace the front two fenders due to the way he tried to "roll them" but at the price he sold it to me and given the fact the ac works amazing, the interior isn't a disaster, and the engine and transmission are running strong, investing in handling isn't a big deal as I already planned to put coilovers on it and Ive got buddies who have the tools and know how to help.. just gotta budget for beer after getting my parts lol. Great video though
At least a few hundred dollars per wheel bearing I bet! $40 sounds much better 👍 thanks for watching!
Thank-you to showing me how to do this and I don't need a lot of the fancy and expensive tools to remove and install the bearing. It was a lot of intensive labor but I think I can work on my car. Thanks again.
You're welcome! yah this was definitely one of the more challenging jobs I've done on a car, and hopefully my video eased the process for you!
Outstanding video and details. Tackling my son's 2000 TL when the bearings arrive from Amazon. Thank you!
Thank you! Hope everything goes smoothly!
nice video!, i did this with hand tools, same process, same press kit, but i used basic hand tools and a table vice. the hardest part was getting the snap ring off if its at all corroded around the hols for the tool, it may break the snap ring eyes off, it happens, just use your best hammer and flat tip to get the snap ring out, buy a replacement just in case . they are really cheap. its worth it, it took me 4 hours to find one locally without hitting up a junk yard for one. :)
Nice work! Yes, the snap ring was also difficult to remove, I'm glad I didn't run into the issue of it breaking!
Excellent procedure and OUTSTANDING video taping... BRAVO !
Thank you! I’m glad my video could be helpful!
Good for you man. If you can do bearings you can do just about anything.
Thank you! This one a difficult one, and I continue to learn more every day! Thanks for watching :)
Outstanding video. Used video and bought sockets and kit recommended to replace 2003 non-S Acura TL left front wheel bearing.
Thank you! Glad my video was helpful!
Chaysis that’s a new one. 😂 good video!
Great job mate !! A work Bench would helped a lot but you made it look easy
Yah a bench definitely would have been nice in some instances! Thanks for watching and glad you found my video helpful!
I love your video very informative. I have to do this for a 2016 Honda CRV. Should be a similar process. The only thing I do different when pressing in new bearings, I put them in the freezer overnight it makes them slide in so much easier. And old-timer showed me that years ago. Again thanks for the video!!!!
you prolly dont care at all but does anybody know a trick to get back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot my account password. I would love any tricks you can offer me.
@Kylan Ali Instablaster :)
Why wouldn't you have applied a grease or lubricant to the new bearing and the hud spindle to aid the installation - also a little anti-seize to all the fasteners as you reassemble the car would aid In things coming apart for future repairs - especially if the car is in a salty winter environment
The bearing and spindle went in plenty easy, no real need to lubricate it. If you wanted to use some sort of grease I’m sure you could. And I only use anti seize on things that are routinely worked on, such as the brakes.
I tried the motor tech 23pieces didn't work for me but I'm going to try this one cuz I see a lot of people using it and it works hope for the best
Thanks for the video it really helped a lot keep up the good work. Walking through the process really helped a lot thanks again
I'm glad my video was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Bro, I think you just saved me! I bought a 20 ton press to remove the bearing but I had no idea how to remove the hub from the knuckle without an insanely expensive grappler. I'm going to try this method with the two jack stands and a hammer. How big of a hammer do you need? I have a small sledgehammer but I don't know the weight. Thanks!!!!
Being that I own a 2001 TL, I just became a new subscriber to your channel. Have you had any issues with broken lug studs? I would love to see your suggestions on how to go about replacing studs. Also, if one breaks, should I replace all studs? Please advise.
I have never broken a lug. These usually only break in instances of excessive torque, which is why torquing the lug nuts is important, but they can break sometimes due to extreme rust as well. Replacing the studs are cheap and easy to do. You don't need to replace them all, but it might be recommended because even torque on the studs is important for safety. If some studs are clean and the others are rusty, dirty, or simply worn down, that will create uneven effective torque amongst the studs.
You'll need to remove the wheel, brake caliper and bracket, and the rotor. Then rotate the hub to where there is clearance out the back for the stud to be removed. Sometimes the heat shield can get in the way and may need to be bent to create that clearance. Take a big sledge hammer and simply wack it out. Then to install it, you'll take an oversized nut to act as a spacer, put it over the stud, then screw your lug nut on after that, and tighten the lug nut to pull the new stud in until it's completed seated in position.
Hope this helped! Good luck and thank you for watching and subscribing!
Thanks for your reply. In my case the head of the stud crashes with the hub assembly before reaching the heat shield. I was wondering if yours was the same.
When you added downward pressure to the knuckle to get the bolt to stop spinning for the lower control arm, did you use your hand for the pressure?
It’s been a while since I did this job and I can’t say I remember exactly what I did. It’s possible I either grabbed the top portion of the knuckle and pulled down, or what it looks like you could also do is take a large pliers and squeeze the knuckle and lower control arm together to prevent the bolt from spinning. I remember it wasn’t very easy but what I do remember as mentioned in the video is using an impact helped a lot
How was the transmission holding up for that car?
314,000 miles all original and still running good!
Just replaced mine at 226K. 08 TL no type s ( I wish) but need to do the front wheel bearing. Will get this one for sure !!
Great informative video. Keep up the great work brother!!👍🏻
Thank you!!!
Another trick to put bearings on easier. Put the bearings in the freezer overnight. Put the wheel hub in the oven at 150-200 degrees Fahrenheit. The difference in metal expansion makes a huge difference. The only thing is you may have to remove the wheel speed sensor so that it doesn’t melt.
yup if I could have done one thing differently, I would have put the bearing in the freezer. But everything worked out perfectly!
@@CarRepairsMadeSimpleI didn’t mean to imply that you didn’t do a good job. You did a great job! You’re definitely a good mechanic not only do you fix it, but you diagnosed it correctly.. that’s hard to do sometimes. Nice job and great video. Thanks! I learned a lot watching it!
Very nice detail, thank you and subbed.
Thank you! I’m glad my videos have been helpful!
Very good video ✌️
Jose Argueta Thank you!!!
I have a 2004 TL and mine is making the same sound as the one you showed while you turn. I can’t tell if I need to replace the bearing or if it’s something else.
If it’s only making the scraping sound when you turn, that’s just the rotor heat shield scraping against the rotor. You can usually just bend it back slightly so it’s not touching anymore.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple I’ll give that a try today! Thanks
Put the bearing in the freezer overnight and it will go in much easier. If its warm outside you can also put the other part in the sun
Thank you for the video.
you're welcome! thanks for watching!
I have the exact same car and color. First person on UA-cam I’ve seen with the same car. Anyway I just hit 200k miles on the car. Any suggestions or maintenance I should do ahead of time?
Bailey Webb Awesome job on 200k! I would make sure you keep up on fluid maintenance! Especially the transmission fluid. Use Honda DW-1, do a 3-quart drain-and-fill every 15k miles, and change the exterior spin on ATF filter every 30k miles. I made a video on it!
Is this standard on most old acuras? I have a 03 Rex
It should be! Most old vehicles in general for that matter, not just Honda’s and Acura’s.
I always keep the bearing i the freezer. After heating up the knuckle, there is no problem dropping the ice cold bearing in without any kind of force...
I’ll give that a try next time!
What’s the reason for the black side to face the outside?
The metal side is magnetized and is detected by the ABS sensor, the black side is the pack seal which keeps the bearing lubricated and keeps dirt out.
Very nice video thank you
B Ramdass you’re welcome! I’m glad it was helpful!
THANK YOU SO MUCH
You’re very welcome! Glad this was helpful!
Did you get any codes for the abs after removing and putting them back .
Machine GunSony No codes! All is good!
Do you know how to fix the Vsa light ? It stays on
Machine GunSony did you accidentally turn it off? There’s a VSA button by the fog light and cruise control buttons. Otherwise are there any CEL codes?
Amazon link to the Tekton 36 mm Socket is incorrect.
Thanks for letting me know. It appears the exact socket I used in this video (4936) has been discontinued by Tekton since making this video. I updated the link in the description which corresponds with the new part number.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple Np, My bearing driver side is also bad and I'm going to follow your video as a guide. Although, I might keep the knuckle intact and use a slide hammer. Your video is awesome! Keep it up, I mean in a good way - not when cars break down of course. I would love to see a video of you doing the timing belt and water pump.
@@mrhoangvo we’ll see! I will probably be due for a timing belt and water pump either this fall or next spring. I’ll look into it!
This isn’t the way to do this job with that tool. Upright stays put. Turn wheel, Remove axle, hub, snap ring, press bearing out and new one in.
May need bearing splitter or dremel to remove hub from bearing.
If you take the upright all off it defeats the tool just take it to a shop with a press.
Use heat. Emory cloth fine, bearing in freezer. M1 synthetic grease on bearing and upright.
Impact on nut not bolt from instructions.
I tried this tool and then a 20-ton press. Then I tried both with a torch, but it still wouldn't come out. I ended up cutting out the bearing to remove it.
Dang, I’ve never heard of that needing to be done before! I hope my video was helpful otherwise!
Are the nsk bearings pre greased?
Yes they are, all you have to do is put it in the knuckle
I can't get the lower ball joint loose. I'm going to try a pickle fork tomorrow.
yeah I saw I mentioned at 15:40 that was probably one of the hardest parts of this job. If you use a pickle fork, be aware that those will most likely destroy the rubber boot and you’ll need to replace the ball joint. Not a lot of information out there on how to do that other than the whole situation sounds like a PITA. Just something to look into and think about before using a pickle fork. I would just smack the f*** out of the knuckle as hard as you can as I showed in the video. Remember, the knuckle is made to support this 3500lb vehicle going 145mph, you’re not gonna hurt it.
@@CarRepairsMadeSimple The ball joint is shot anyways. I'll get a bigger hammer and try that too. Thanks
Damn that knuckle is so rusted. Did you consider replacing the knuckle with a new one?
Ehh just a little surface rust, does its job just fine otherwise!
What size socket
I'm not sure which socket you're talking about, but I used a 36mm socket for the spindle nut, and I used a 1-1/4" socket for the wheel bearing tool kit. Hope that answers your question!
Too many counterfeit parts on Amazon and EBay. I would only buy my parts from a reputable online dealer like Rock Auto.
It depends on which seller you selected prior to purchase. Keep in mind, everyday people like you and me can sell stuff on Amazon too. If you select "Amazon.com" or the manufacturer of the product being sold, you shouldn't have a problem. But yes you can also get this bearing from RockAuto for slightly cheaper but shipping will take an extra couple days.
You have to be carful when buying the wheel bearings cause there is a non abs model and an abs model.
Well luckily for this car, NGK only makes one wheel bearing for it. So there should be no worry ordering a wrong part. But that’s good to know for other vehicles!
You're using the driver backwards. Drive in and out with the nut not the bolt head.
Hello,how can i contact you?
right here in the comment section in any of my videos is fine!
Don’t shit ur pants bro 🤣🤣😂
Ok
I guess I’m confused about there being “play” in the steering with a bad bearing. I’ve never heard of that and never experienced it either. Just doesn’t make any sense considering the bearing only controls rotation and the hub and bearing are all held in place by the axle nut…
Well, now you’ve heard of it haha if you look at 2:35, you can see the wheel is visibly moving due to the worn out bearing. This can cause a variety of vibrations, noises, and since the wheel is literally loose and has play, it can throw off the alignment causing the vehicle to pull to one side.