I like how you gave the customer options and didn't judge him on what he chose. I need to find an independent contractor because these company guys are driven to force service contracts and high end equipment down your throat at every given opportunity. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a guy like you.
Thank you yeah I just want my customer to be happy. I offer my advice and it's always just what I would do if I had their situation. I agree with you A lot of companies are just driven to make a sale and they don't care about the customer
Hey Dale, I hear ya brother. I work for a company in the Hudson valley in NY. A lot of competition but countless number of times I'm servicing equipment with the competition's sticker on it. I always try to be as transparent as possible. I've learned that once you lose a customers trust, you've lost their business.
@@TaddyDigest I have the same issue, lost about a pound in a year. Have had 3 companies come out only to not pinpoint the leak, guessing it's probably on the back of the evaporator coil like this one. What did you recommend replacing, the coil or the whole handler?
BEST COMMMENT. This describes my situation. Every person I've had out is trying to get me to buy an entire new system when my system is only 8 years old. hard to find good honest work.
I use Fieldpiece's DR82 Infrared Leak Detector. It's freakin awesome! I do a 3-hits-it's-a-leak check, but I really don't have to; if it goes off, there's a leak (or I accidentally bumped the tip on something). Probably the greatest feature about this particular leak detector is the fact that it gives you three signs to let you know that there is a leak: there's the audible sound, the flashing of the tip, and a vibration throughout the leak detector itself. That's awesome! So it doesn't matter if you're blind, deaf, or dumb, you will find a leak if there is one!
Good video ! But Here’s some tips from a Guy doing it for 42 Years. 1) if System has at least 1lb of liquid refrigerant in it. ( 410a systems ) Just pull the disconnect. Wait 5 min for system to equalize. Equalized pressures on 410a system at 60 degrees outside with liquid in it will be 170Psig. Higher if its hotter out. See pt chart. 170 is plenty to find a leak with a H10-leak detector or any decent leak detector. 2) Most Leaks are in evaps. 75% of the time. Start there first. 3) Rarely have i needed to pressure test over 150 psi to find a Leak with a Ge H10 leak detector.
I have been doing refrigeration and air conditioning for over 45 years. I am partial to my Inficon select. I spent 30 of those years behind a desk as a service manager. I diagnosed techs problems over the phone. Always look for a leak if the unit is low. To just add gas is not performing your job.
That rare time is that dang ice machine that passes the pressure test twice and has a fan switch that doesn't leak until it hits 275 psi high side....ugh
Many techs don't bother to actually find/fix the leak.. My friend Matt is the best at finding leaks.. even w/o dye,, feel for oil is a very good start.
BINGO. In our area, they immediately try to upsell you and get you to replace the entire system. The gentlemen has integrity and gave the customer all the options ranging from the quick fix to huge overhaul. It didn't feel like a rip off, UNLIKE many of the guys in our area.
CPS leak detector is the best. We had a leak on the R114 plant and it was like chasing a ghost. We put soap on the area and it took about five minutes and the bubbles were so small it looked like shaving cream. That's how small the leak was.
Heated diode testo 316-3, dr82 for infrared and accutrak for ultrasonic is my loadout, mainly used the testo until i got the other 2, very excited for the accutrak
You are the best teacher on here! I’ve been thinking about going to school for my H-Vac license. Texas is so hot during the summers! I liked & subscribed!
If I can't find a residential leak with an electronic & sonic leak detector within 30-40 minutes , I like to add fluorescent dye while I add refrigerant. This provides comfort cooling until we can reschedule the leak inspection, and let the dye have time to show up After 35 yrs in residential, if I can't find the leak in a half hour or so on most units, then I know it is going to be a tricky one. The uv dye really helps to pinpoint the problem. Owner operators.. Remember, dye is a tool to help you. You dont need to make a fortune on the dye. Be fair to your customers. You will earn a fair profit during the repair or replacement of the coil.
I wish I could get y’all’s service in NW Georgia. I was told you can’t fix a leak. You have to have a new unit. I get refrigerant added twice a season or use window units.
I was told leaks could t be fixed period! Dye was added no leak found I was told it must be the unit leaking and that can’t be fixed. The Heil United is 2 years old.
@@GApawpawandnana that is false. In car ac systems, refrigerant leaks are diagnosed with fluorescent dye, electronic leak detector, soapy water, and other methods. All these methods can be used for residential systems as well
The common census for leak checking is to raise the pressure no higher than the highest rating on the low side. Its to avoid damaging the internals of the system.
@@g-lato9791 incorrect. This is a lack of understanding right here. In a heat pump, the high side just alternates between the evaporator and condenser but is still same high side pressure reading to go off and you should not exceed that number.
H10Pro by Bacharach for leak detectors. Always check the service port caps with electronic before getting the gauges out of the truck and before touching the caps.
I feel for the home owner... but the best thing to do is have some window units ready... 3 units are more than enough to keep you comfortable enough when SHTF with the main AC. they cost $150 each. Then with an older system, especially one approaching 20 years... just get the full install. else with and older system you may find yourself spending more money over the long term vs a new system plus the inconvenience (they always break on a Friday afternoon ) constantly fixing issues as its dies. At least you can get a warranty on installation and equipment that will cover you for a year or more. I also recommend insisting they inject UV dye into the system upon installation or even service. that way its easier to find the leak should one creep up at any point due to installation errors or aging.
Question from a non-pro: are the leaks always at the coils and not on the run of copper somewhere else (like that one going through a brick wall)? I've got a no-cool situation and I'm thinking a leak somewhere. Great vid and awesome to see an honest tech!
@@projectguyprojectguy9019 it is a possibility but unlikely. I've seen leaks in the line set from ppl hanging pictures on an outside wall. Line set leaks will show an oil spot on the wall.
Thanks for the reply! You were right - my leak was at the evap coil on my old R22 system. . According to the tech it looks like a slow seep - hopefully the stop leak stuff will fix it as a new coil is $4k so may need to get a new system. Other than this leak the compressor is running strong and the system has been well maintained.
I would not recommend to anyone to go 500psi on a leak test. I, like Oc have been doing it a long time. Never pressure tested that high, even on the commercial side of things. Can get dangerous. Usually there are operating max pressures listed, I would not exceed those. There is a leak detector that works via sound. I had one of those as well, no matter how small the leak, it would sound like a hurricane in your ears. Nice vid.
AC guy found our 2008 out of warranty system was out of old type refrigerant. Checked outside unit, no leaks. Plans to check for leaks on inside unit, weld leak if doable, install "stop leak", and new type refrigerant. If systems loses refrigerant, he will deduct charges from total price for new inside unit (or replacement coil) . I was told that old type refrigerant is very expensive, new type is about 95% effective in cooling.
If it's a large leak in an air conditioning system it's usually on the high side of the system To check the condenser hook up your high side and low tide gauges turn off the power remove the condenser fan motor from the top of the unit Turn the unit power back on checking the high side pressure with condenser fan motor not working the high side pressure will increase to a point where you might be able to locate the week much easier Do not exceed momentarily 400 PSI Turn off the power check With an electronic leak detector You can also use an UltraViolet leak detector After injecting and allowing the fluid to circulate throughout the system One other method is using nitrogen to build up the pressure to see if we could find a slow leak using a Ultra Violet leak detector after injected fluid All these methods MUST only be performed by specially trained air conditioning service technicians with years of experience Absolutely no homeowners should ever attempt these leak detection procedures which could cause permanent bodily injury or possible death Leave it to the professionals
wow infocon ive had one but long since replaced by H 10 & cant remember the other brand but its called the leak seeker & 500 max nitro id guess ....i usually do 350 max 145 on old R 22 coils w/ trace Refrigerant with bird dog 1 st then bubbles to pin point ..Thanks as always
Most refrigerant leak detectors are incredibly sensitive. If you add any refrigerant you should always do a leak search. A basic leak search only takes 10-15 minutes to make sure you don’t have a good size leak. You don’t have to reclaim the gas and add nitrogen, the refrigerant is the gas you are looking for, and soap bubbles will also blow bubbles regardless if there is nitrogen, as long as there is pressure, don’t complicate it. You can’t give the customer the choice you are supposed to make as a trained technician when it’s such a simple move and avoids callbacks
I was never offered the opportunity to do a leak test quite frankly, wasn’t even aware of that possibility. Pumped 5 pounds of gas Into the unit and the unit failed within six months
Without keeping this too long. Unless you don't mind you can respond and help me. Basically this is the second central heat and air system I bought in 3 years. Because I'm dealing with American home shield warranty, everybody run no one use them anyway. Brand new system. They left rags, bolts, wires, all kind of stuff in the air handler. After that it still kept freezing up about 9-10 times. Then they said it was in my ducting so they retape that and then totally lied and said we never had mastic at all. I had a second company come out. They got up into an area where the company that lied never even got before. They couldn't even fit there. He took pictures and showed your mastic is fine. I forgot to also tell you the first company that installed the brand new units already has replaced three parts on it. The t-valve, the capacitor and something else. I don't even know a brand new unit. This was all in the first 3 months. I got it put in this February and here we are still waiting with a huge electric bill in this little house every month and having to keep the air down. The last guy that came without testing anything like you just did said it's your line set. Yep that's it.. no testing at all. He just put his head up underneath Air handler and said yep it's your line set. Now I know when you get a new system they are supposed to test and make sure the line set even fits your new system. Well this house was built in '96 and like I said the first system when I bought the house 20 years old it had a 3 ton double pump system. The second when I got ripped off it was supposed to be a 3-ton. He put a 2 and 1/2 ton and didn't even change the air filter air handler. Excuse me at all. Left the old one. And with a brand new one I just got. I know already they lied because of the mastic. I have proof of all this in writing pictures. Everything now the company wants to charge me out of pocket $1,000. Which by the way I've already paid $500 out of pocket for window unit after just buying the brand new AC unit. So if it's the line set when they haven't even checked it, he said it would be a simple thing to replace. Even though it's underground. You would just have to remove the air handler. Have somebody at the other end push out the old bring in the new put in the 2 lb of refrigerant and that's it. My question is $1,000 for this all because the word access was used. The company wants me to pay and no one's even tested it. So should I have them replace the whole thing since they've already replaced three parts on it? And we know they've been lying though about stuff already with this new company. If they won't change the wording then they want me to pay $1,000 for something he didn't do any kind of testing on. What do you guys think? I need some good advice and dealing with this company. It either is I have to come out of pocket $1,000 or I keep paying extremely high $300 and something dollar a month electric bill. My house isn't even $1,500 square feet when my 20-year-old system was here. I paid $180 in the summer. That's it. So what do you think the whole thing replaced? Do you think it is the line set with it being brand new? Maybe the line set is not brand new. It's original. They probably never even tested. It changed it nothing. And I guess that's not something you have to replace when you get a new unit. So if I have to pay out of pocket this seems like quite a bit for something he has said on camera. This will be a simple fix and won't be hard to do so. Do you think definitely I should have it tested? And also he said he couldn't add refrigerant now that he knows there's a leak because that's illegal. And how does he even know that it is a leak if he didn't even test anything? I'm going crazy. I said I'd keep it short. It's not short. Sorry. I'm just hoping you guys can see this and give me some good advice cuz at this point it looks like I'm going to have to get a lawyer. I don't have another dollar to spend after just paying for two units, a window unit and high bills and for them to come out. So please tell me what your opinions are. I need some good advice from somebody not trying to rob me for once. That would be amazing. Thank you and God bless you all
I use the Testo 316-4 for R410a systems and the Testo 316-3 for R22, but the Inficon Tek Mate is also great option for r-22 systems ( I also have a Inficon tek mate). The Testo 316-4 is probably the most sensitive electronic leak detector I’ve used for r410a.. and I’ve can’t even start to tell you how many electronic leak detectors bought then sold trying to find a good model. Do a Search for NathanHVAC electronic leak detector sensitivity test. He has tested most of the leak detectors I’ve purchased. He has made spreadsheet of the leak detectors and their sensitivity for R22 and R410a refrigerants. I’m trying out Ultrasonic refrigerant leak detector this spring/summer to see if that can help pin point small leak’s faster.
I've used several ultrasonic leak detectors and found that they were useless when trying to find small leaks. See what the return policy is on the tool just in case. A good way to test it is by using a calibration vial.
I have a system from the mid 90s that hasnt run in a few years due to a leak and the refrigerant being super expensive. can a system like that be repaired and retrofitted? or would it be a wash in cost and better to just update?
I'm at 2:20 in the video. Does this hold true for vehicle A/C's? (slow leaks = low pressure side and fast leaks =high pressure side? Thanks for the video!
costs to do an full fledged leak search vary depends how far we have to go to isolate Coil from line set to outdoor unit but can get quite costly quick ...depends but its the only way to find , fix or replace the correct component
Taddy digest have you ever worked on farm equipment ac units I’m a mechanic an have been fighting with one of are equipments ac units I’ve done replaced an fixed where the leak was but it still is leaking down can you help us out
I was told dish liquids (Dawn, Joy, etc) have lye in them and are corrosive to copper. Use an approved something if you don't want to pay for Big Blue etc.. Also chlorine sterilizer in condensate drains can attack furnace parts, use vinegar. Yet in reach-ins salad dressings and tomato products seem to eat coils. Who is right?
How much do you charge for a new evap coil? Here in California it's about $4,500 to replace an evap coil. If it's under warranty, it's about $2,000. Some hvac companies don't even check to see if it's under warranty. I've done two evap coils under warranty this year as a second opinion. The first two companies diagnosed bad evap coils and never checked to see if they were under warranty and quoted the customer about $4,500.
Can u do a video on superheat and subcooling, i know everyone tells people to only check subcooling, which if the system is installed properly the txv will hold the superheat to what it is suppose to be, but alot of the time it's not and superheat is usually way low.
I'm having this same exact problem with my ac. Guy came out couple years ago and replaced the fan thing on the inside unit and said that would fix our problem. The system will not hold refrigerant. The line constantly freezes up. Definitely don't have $$ for a brand new system. Just need an honest trustworthy HVAC person to look at it and find the leak and tell me if it can be fixed. I'm in Virginia about 50 miles south of DC and 50 miles north of Richmond if you know of anyone in the area you can recommend.
@@TaddyDigest I replace fuses in the electric box to the condenser turn on the system and it start sparking, I shut it off and I had the wiring check and check the fuses again and one of them was shorted out again. I'm not sure if the shortage is because the condenser needs to be replace or if there's something else I can do before replacing the condenser.
Great video! I feel like people are scheming us and we live in Florida and our AC unit broke 3 times in the last year and we got it new last year. Weird
nice job tad, what do youcharge for a leak survey? also if a mouse works its way into the main blower squirrel cage it will sound like thunder in your duct work. simply remove and clear sailing.
Hey Taddy, here in South Florida in a New Apartment with what seems to be a pretty new Freidrich Large Size AC Wall Unit. Within past 2 or 3 years. Doesn't seem to be an older Freon unit. Moved in about 2 months ago. AC runs pretty good and cold , but periodically I smell a Paint Thinner / Vinegar smell blowing out of the Air Conditioner. I contacted my landlord. In your opinion can this be repaired fairly easily by an HVAC Professional in Comparison to the larger Central AC Units you seem to be repairing. Your advise is greatly appreciated for the best advice I should be getting from a local HVAC professional.
Hey, Tad. I use the yellow jacket sniffer. But I also use the Superior Accu Track ultrasonic leak detector. You could have heard those mice fart before they died.
I have had hit or miss with Electronics. It often goes off (all brands) if its near water in the pan , My Inficon goes off in light wind, My field piece just goes off because field piece. lol I almost always have better luck with Nitro and visual with soap bubbles.
Technician said had freon leak! On evaporator! $. Ouch! He put leak seal! Looked like a syringe. What are you thought on leak seal. After a month, failed to cool again!
is goodman heat pump GSZB404210A good for 2014 mobile home? in amarillo texas , r19 walls, r25 roof, r 30 floor, singal pan widows, 1216 sqft home. not air tight it has leaks. temps below 20 is like 8 days during heating seanson. i set termostat to 74 f and am using electric furnace 10 kwh for 108 hours a month. my electric rate is 0.097 kwh. the highest bill to have was 250 but that is from whole home usage. the goodman heat pump says it uses 2.9 kwh at 10 f with a COP of 2.08 and a 2.7 kwh with COP of 1.34 at -5 f. the price for the 5 ton a-coil and 3.5 heat pump is $4,876. i can get 30% off that price on rebate then it whould be $3,413.235 also, why whould tech go with mortex 5 ton a-coil and 3.5 heat pump. thanks for help.
With the industry going through a major shift to A2L refrigerants starting in 2025, does it make sense to install a current system based on R-410A or wait until next year for A2L systems?
My house just started smelling like cat urine and I don’t have a cat. Google says it could be a Freon leak. I put my nose up to the vent and the smell does seem to be stronger there. Have you encountered this before? I’m wondering if it’s even safe for me to be in my house if there is a leak.
there is no way to only put nitrogen in the low side unless you would disconnect the coil. But yeah, the coil clearly states design pressure and R22 is very low pressure. I thought last one I saw was 150 on the R22 coil and 450 on 410a coil.
I bought a brand new construction home and closed Jan 2022. Yesterday the A/C company who installed the central air came last night at 7pm and BAM, The tech says there is a small Freon leak but couldn’t find it. So he charged me $144 for the service call and $188.50 for 2.5lbs of Freon. He told me his office will call me back. Today they call me and she tells me it will cost me $257 for the leak check and probably more for Freon. So I’m like WTF! STRADA installed all of this and now I am on the hook for this leak and the house is only 2 years old and they installed all of this! WOW.
@@TaddyDigest Thanks for that, the tech told me that the TXV is bad and he need to install a new coil, the system is 3-year-old. I took an image of his 4 port manifold + Micron gauge where it showed the following, on the left side, a pressure of 96.3 Psig below it is 39.1 SH, and below it is 29.5 VSAT. On the right side it shows pressure of 278.8 Psig, 16.8 SC, and below it 90.7 LSAT. I would very much appreciate your thoughts on this
Yeah it looks Like there is too much liquid in The condenser And not Enough Liquid In the evaporator so definitely could be the filter dryer for the t x v
My unit froze up the lines are copper so I turned the unit off so it can thaw from the big ice block so would that problem be from having a leak in the system? Thanks in advance
You guys have so much tool to do the job i don't have a leak detector eater nitrogen no access to those when i am doing my small ac work back home i have to use air from compressor and bubble but still get my job done 👍
When using compressed air, the air contains containments and moisture depending on location, I would draw a 24 or a triple vacuum, the air is primarily nitrogen any way.DO NOT USE A TANK COMPRESSOR unless it is drained clean.I think I'll try myself , think you!
I live in an apartment and they come fill it with Freon or whatever. Works great and lasts about 3 weeks then goes back to hot. After watching how hard it is to find I guarantee the maintenance crew is not going to do all that extra work. What should I do
If you look around online you can buy 5lb cans of R-22 for $220. Of course if you have a severe leak don't bother on such an old system and get it upgraded.
Hi! Thank you for this very informative video. I’m your new subscriber. Can I ask you a question regarding our AC unit? We just bought a house and unfortunately the AC is not cooling the room. The AC Unit is manufactured in 2006 (very old). And it’s definitely leaking refrigerant. The technician that checked the unit suggested to add refrigerant and check for leaks 1 or 2 weeks after. Is that okay? Or should I insist to find the leak first? I would really appreciate your advise. Thank you on everything that you do!
I would go ahead and let him add refrigerant because you need to know exactly how low it is Sometimes, it's hard to find the leak unless the refrigerant is significantly low, so it's good to know how low the refrigerant is before you schedule a leak check
My company likes to use fluorescent trace dye for leak searches. And those require a return visit for Leah search after the dye has been circulating for a few weeks. Maybe that’s what the tech was referring to?
I’m smelling like Nail Polish type smell while my unit is on! Everyone is having headaches, nausea dizziness diarrhea all of a sudden. Could we have a leak?
The cost of these has become ridiculous. Older people on a budgeted income can not afford it. I know people that just suffer instead. It's deplorable. There should be a better and easier plug and play replacement by now.
Hay Taddy, Got an unrelated Question, sorry to post on your video. I went to a Goodman PKG HP the other day with Compressor not starting. I could hear it trying like a dead CAP. Checked the CAP (70x5 duel) it was 4.7 on fan and 311 on Herm!! 311/5 wow. Cap was 1.5 yrs old. I replaced it and system began to run. Was pulling 15.5 amps at start then 10 minutes in I noticed it had risen to 18 then ten minutes latter it was near 20. The RLA is 26. I traced the wires and found nothing mis wired to the cap so I called it the Compressor and recommended the Comp. I did not find any strange readings when I did OHM the comp tho before I restarted with the new CAP. Have you seen this before? It is a new one on me.
I like how you gave the customer options and didn't judge him on what he chose. I need to find an independent contractor because these company guys are driven to force service contracts and high end equipment down your throat at every given opportunity. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a guy like you.
Thank you yeah I just want my customer to be happy. I offer my advice and it's always just what I would do if I had their situation.
I agree with you A lot of companies are just driven to make a sale and they don't care about the customer
Hey Dale, I hear ya brother. I work for a company in the Hudson valley in NY. A lot of competition but countless number of times I'm servicing equipment with the competition's sticker on it. I always try to be as transparent as possible. I've learned that once you lose a customers trust, you've lost their business.
@@TaddyDigest I have the same issue, lost about a pound in a year. Have had 3 companies come out only to not pinpoint the leak, guessing it's probably on the back of the evaporator coil like this one. What did you recommend replacing, the coil or the whole handler?
BEST COMMMENT. This describes my situation. Every person I've had out is trying to get me to buy an entire new system when my system is only 8 years old. hard to find good honest work.
@@ronniehvac653 BINGO. HVAC techs in our area have a bad reputation for ripping people off. We've been taken advantage of too many times to count.
I use Fieldpiece's DR82 Infrared Leak Detector. It's freakin awesome!
I do a 3-hits-it's-a-leak check, but I really don't have to; if it goes off, there's a leak (or I accidentally bumped the tip on something).
Probably the greatest feature about this particular leak detector is the fact that it gives you three signs to let you know that there is a leak: there's the audible sound, the flashing of the tip, and a vibration throughout the leak detector itself.
That's awesome!
So it doesn't matter if you're blind, deaf, or dumb, you will find a leak if there is one!
Good video ! But Here’s some tips from a Guy doing it for 42 Years.
1) if System has at least 1lb of liquid refrigerant in it. ( 410a systems ) Just pull the disconnect. Wait 5 min for system to equalize. Equalized pressures on 410a system at 60 degrees outside with liquid in it will be 170Psig. Higher if its hotter out. See pt chart. 170 is plenty to find a leak with a H10-leak detector or any decent leak detector.
2) Most Leaks are in evaps. 75% of the time. Start there first.
3) Rarely have i needed to pressure test over 150 psi to find a Leak with a Ge H10 leak detector.
I have been doing refrigeration and air conditioning for over 45 years. I am partial to my Inficon select. I spent 30 of those years behind a desk as a service manager. I diagnosed techs problems over the phone. Always look for a leak if the unit is low. To just add gas is not performing your job.
The G.E. H-10 with a cord is without a doubt the best leak detector you can get your hands on.
That rare time is that dang ice machine that passes the pressure test twice and has a fan switch that doesn't leak until it hits 275 psi high side....ugh
Many techs don't bother to actually find/fix the leak.. My friend Matt is the best at finding leaks.. even w/o dye,, feel for oil is a very good start.
BINGO. In our area, they immediately try to upsell you and get you to replace the entire system. The gentlemen has integrity and gave the customer all the options ranging from the quick fix to huge overhaul. It didn't feel like a rip off, UNLIKE many of the guys in our area.
I use accu trak ultrasonic. I have used it for a little over 10 years. Works great. It is not a sniffer. Sniffer will go off with anything that burns.
CPS leak detector is the best. We had a leak on the R114 plant and it was like chasing a ghost. We put soap on the area and it took about five minutes and the bubbles were so small it looked like shaving cream. That's how small the leak was.
Heated diode testo 316-3, dr82 for infrared and accutrak for ultrasonic is my loadout, mainly used the testo until i got the other 2, very excited for the accutrak
You are the best teacher on here! I’ve been thinking about going to school for my H-Vac license. Texas is so hot during the summers! I liked & subscribed!
Thank you so much
If I can't find a residential leak with an electronic & sonic leak detector within 30-40 minutes , I like to add fluorescent dye while I add refrigerant. This provides comfort cooling until we can reschedule the leak inspection, and let the dye have time to show up After 35 yrs in residential, if I can't find the leak in a half hour or so on most units, then I know it is going to be a tricky one. The uv dye really helps to pinpoint the problem. Owner operators.. Remember, dye is a tool to help you. You dont need to make a fortune on the dye. Be fair to your customers. You will earn a fair profit during the repair or replacement of the coil.
Excellent advice 👍
I wish I could get y’all’s service in NW Georgia. I was told you can’t fix a leak. You have to have a new unit. I get refrigerant added twice a season or use window units.
I was told leaks could t be fixed period! Dye was added no leak found I was told it must be the unit leaking and that can’t be fixed. The Heil United is 2 years old.
@@GApawpawandnana that is false. In car ac systems, refrigerant leaks are diagnosed with fluorescent dye, electronic leak detector, soapy water, and other methods. All these methods can be used for residential systems as well
The common census for leak checking is to raise the pressure no higher than the highest rating on the low side. Its to avoid damaging the internals of the system.
That makes it hard to sell them those items though dont it?? 🤑 JK LOL
Does that also apply to the heat pump tho , since it is reversible and they both use the high pressure
@@g-lato9791 incorrect. This is a lack of understanding right here. In a heat pump, the high side just alternates between the evaporator and condenser but is still same high side pressure reading to go off and you should not exceed that number.
"I will keep you cool if you let me!" ..clever tag line earned my sub.
Thank you brother
Inficon ❤
I have used them for detecting vacuum leaks with heium for decades 😊
They make high quality instruments!
H10Pro by Bacharach for leak detectors. Always check the service port caps with electronic before getting the gauges out of the truck and before touching the caps.
Great information. Just ordered Webb Coil Cleaner from Lowes.
I feel for the home owner... but the best thing to do is have some window units ready... 3 units are more than enough to keep you comfortable enough when SHTF with the main AC. they cost $150 each. Then with an older system, especially one approaching 20 years... just get the full install. else with and older system you may find yourself spending more money over the long term vs a new system plus the inconvenience (they always break on a Friday afternoon ) constantly fixing issues as its dies. At least you can get a warranty on installation and equipment that will cover you for a year or more. I also recommend insisting they inject UV dye into the system upon installation or even service. that way its easier to find the leak should one creep up at any point due to installation errors or aging.
when it leaks fast condenser side. when it leaks slow evaporator side.but it all depends on the size of the hole.
Is there anyone cool and honest like you in San Diego?
not sure my friend
Question from a non-pro: are the leaks always at the coils and not on the run of copper somewhere else (like that one going through a brick wall)? I've got a no-cool situation and I'm thinking a leak somewhere. Great vid and awesome to see an honest tech!
@@projectguyprojectguy9019 it is a possibility but unlikely. I've seen leaks in the line set from ppl hanging pictures on an outside wall. Line set leaks will show an oil spot on the wall.
Thanks for the reply! You were right - my leak was at the evap coil on my old R22 system. . According to the tech it looks like a slow seep - hopefully the stop leak stuff will fix it as a new coil is $4k so may need to get a new system. Other than this leak the compressor is running strong and the system has been well maintained.
“Three dead mice…three dead mice…see how they spin around the blower motor.” 🎶 😂
Thank you for your expertise
I would not recommend to anyone to go 500psi on a leak test. I, like Oc have been doing it a long time. Never pressure tested that high, even on the commercial side of things. Can get dangerous. Usually there are operating max pressures listed, I would not exceed those. There is a leak detector that works via sound. I had one of those as well, no matter how small the leak, it would sound like a hurricane in your ears. Nice vid.
500+ psi is where a 410a system is operating during the summer.
@@MrDeviousdom where? If so, clean the coil. Maybe in AZ. Not in FL.
@@MetalDetectingwithCZkidd In hot areas. I don't understand the point of your comment.
Agreed! I have never heard of anyone EVER going to 500 psi!
@@epeterson711 well, I'm in AZ and it does all the time on rooftop units.
AC guy found our 2008 out of warranty system was out of old type refrigerant. Checked outside unit, no leaks. Plans to check for leaks on inside unit, weld leak if doable, install "stop leak", and new type refrigerant. If systems loses refrigerant, he will deduct charges from total price for new inside unit (or replacement coil) . I was told that old type refrigerant is very expensive, new type is about 95% effective in cooling.
Excellent work! Thanks for a better understanding on the process. I love learning more and more about my trade.
And that makes for a great contractor, love to hear that. Some ppl are quick to just make money vs actual saving customers a few dollars.
I have a question does refrigerant have to be in the unit to use the nitrogen?
Watching this video tells me why most are saying get a new unit. SMH! Gratitude to you sir for loving and perfect your skills. So appreciated.
If it's a large leak in an air conditioning system it's usually on the high side of the system To check the condenser hook up your high side and low tide gauges turn off the power remove the condenser fan motor from the top of the unit Turn the unit power back on checking the high side pressure with condenser fan motor not working the high side pressure will increase to a point where you might be able to locate the week much easier Do not exceed momentarily 400 PSI Turn off the power check With an electronic leak detector You can also use an UltraViolet leak detector After injecting and allowing the fluid to circulate throughout the system One other method is using nitrogen to build up the pressure to see if we could find a slow leak using a Ultra Violet leak detector after injected fluid All these methods MUST only be performed by specially trained air conditioning service technicians with years of experience Absolutely no homeowners should ever attempt these leak detection procedures which could cause permanent bodily injury or possible death Leave it to the professionals
I am just doing some research to learn more. My techs are taking 4 hours to do a leak check after putting dye in the week before :)
You can do it!
tell us about the stop leak additives.
wow infocon ive had one but long since replaced by H 10 & cant remember the other brand but its called the leak seeker & 500 max nitro id guess ....i usually do 350 max 145 on old R 22 coils w/ trace Refrigerant with bird dog 1 st then bubbles to pin point ..Thanks as always
I use the yellow jacket infrared leak detector works great
Most refrigerant leak detectors are incredibly sensitive. If you add any refrigerant you should always do a leak search. A basic leak search only takes 10-15 minutes to make sure you don’t have a good size leak. You don’t have to reclaim the gas and add nitrogen, the refrigerant is the gas you are looking for, and soap bubbles will also blow bubbles regardless if there is nitrogen, as long as there is pressure, don’t complicate it. You can’t give the customer the choice you are supposed to make as a trained technician when it’s such a simple move and avoids callbacks
I was never offered the opportunity to do a leak test quite frankly, wasn’t even aware of that possibility. Pumped 5 pounds of gas Into the unit and the unit failed within six months
Excellent information in this video! Man I appreciate that for people like me that watches UA-cam to learn for homeowner use . Subscribed
Glad to hear the information was helpful thank you so much for watching
Hi.
What are the resons if frequently happen leakage in condenser coil bends
Without keeping this too long. Unless you don't mind you can respond and help me. Basically this is the second central heat and air system I bought in 3 years. Because I'm dealing with American home shield warranty, everybody run no one use them anyway. Brand new system. They left rags, bolts, wires, all kind of stuff in the air handler. After that it still kept freezing up about 9-10 times. Then they said it was in my ducting so they retape that and then totally lied and said we never had mastic at all. I had a second company come out. They got up into an area where the company that lied never even got before. They couldn't even fit there. He took pictures and showed your mastic is fine. I forgot to also tell you the first company that installed the brand new units already has replaced three parts on it. The t-valve, the capacitor and something else. I don't even know a brand new unit. This was all in the first 3 months. I got it put in this February and here we are still waiting with a huge electric bill in this little house every month and having to keep the air down. The last guy that came without testing anything like you just did said it's your line set. Yep that's it.. no testing at all. He just put his head up underneath Air handler and said yep it's your line set. Now I know when you get a new system they are supposed to test and make sure the line set even fits your new system. Well this house was built in '96 and like I said the first system when I bought the house 20 years old it had a 3 ton double pump system. The second when I got ripped off it was supposed to be a 3-ton. He put a 2 and 1/2 ton and didn't even change the air filter air handler. Excuse me at all. Left the old one. And with a brand new one I just got. I know already they lied because of the mastic. I have proof of all this in writing pictures. Everything now the company wants to charge me out of pocket $1,000. Which by the way I've already paid $500 out of pocket for window unit after just buying the brand new AC unit. So if it's the line set when they haven't even checked it, he said it would be a simple thing to replace. Even though it's underground. You would just have to remove the air handler. Have somebody at the other end push out the old bring in the new put in the 2 lb of refrigerant and that's it. My question is $1,000 for this all because the word access was used. The company wants me to pay and no one's even tested it. So should I have them replace the whole thing since they've already replaced three parts on it? And we know they've been lying though about stuff already with this new company. If they won't change the wording then they want me to pay $1,000 for something he didn't do any kind of testing on. What do you guys think? I need some good advice and dealing with this company. It either is I have to come out of pocket $1,000 or I keep paying extremely high $300 and something dollar a month electric bill. My house isn't even $1,500 square feet when my 20-year-old system was here. I paid $180 in the summer. That's it. So what do you think the whole thing replaced? Do you think it is the line set with it being brand new? Maybe the line set is not brand new. It's original. They probably never even tested. It changed it nothing. And I guess that's not something you have to replace when you get a new unit. So if I have to pay out of pocket this seems like quite a bit for something he has said on camera. This will be a simple fix and won't be hard to do so. Do you think definitely I should have it tested? And also he said he couldn't add refrigerant now that he knows there's a leak because that's illegal. And how does he even know that it is a leak if he didn't even test anything? I'm going crazy. I said I'd keep it short. It's not short. Sorry. I'm just hoping you guys can see this and give me some good advice cuz at this point it looks like I'm going to have to get a lawyer. I don't have another dollar to spend after just paying for two units, a window unit and high bills and for them to come out. So please tell me what your opinions are. I need some good advice from somebody not trying to rob me for once. That would be amazing. Thank you and God bless you all
I use the Testo 316-4 for R410a systems and the Testo 316-3 for R22, but the Inficon Tek
Mate is also great option for r-22 systems ( I also have a Inficon tek mate). The Testo 316-4 is probably the most sensitive electronic leak detector I’ve used for r410a.. and I’ve can’t even start to tell you how many electronic leak detectors bought then sold trying to find a good model. Do a Search for NathanHVAC electronic leak detector sensitivity test. He has tested most of the leak detectors I’ve purchased. He has made spreadsheet of the leak detectors and their sensitivity for R22 and R410a refrigerants. I’m trying out Ultrasonic refrigerant leak detector this spring/summer to see if that can help pin point small leak’s faster.
I've used several ultrasonic leak detectors and found that they were useless when trying to find small leaks. See what the return policy is on the tool just in case. A good way to test it is by using a calibration vial.
I use the same detector that you have and maybe it would have found the leak if you had used it.
This was very informative
thank you for watching 👀 😀
I have a system from the mid 90s that hasnt run in a few years due to a leak and the refrigerant being super expensive. can a system like that be repaired and retrofitted? or would it be a wash in cost and better to just update?
I would probably upgrade
look for oil on the tubing
I'm at 2:20 in the video. Does this hold true for vehicle A/C's? (slow leaks = low pressure side and fast leaks =high pressure side? Thanks for the video!
It really depends on the size of the area that's leaking
costs to do an full fledged leak search vary depends how far we have to go to isolate Coil from line set to outdoor unit but can get quite costly quick ...depends but its the only way to find , fix or replace the correct component
Taddy digest have you ever worked on farm equipment ac units I’m a mechanic an have been fighting with one of are equipments ac units I’ve done replaced an fixed where the leak was but it still is leaking down can you help us out
I use dish soap water paint brushes and spray bottle, the leak detector gives me a general idea of the leak is.
I was told dish liquids (Dawn, Joy, etc) have lye in them and are corrosive to copper. Use an approved something if you don't want to pay for Big Blue etc..
Also chlorine sterilizer in condensate drains can attack furnace parts, use vinegar. Yet in reach-ins salad dressings and tomato products seem to eat coils. Who is right?
How much do you charge for a new evap coil? Here in California it's about $4,500 to replace an evap coil. If it's under warranty, it's about $2,000. Some hvac companies don't even check to see if it's under warranty. I've done two evap coils under warranty this year as a second opinion. The first two companies diagnosed bad evap coils and never checked to see if they were under warranty and quoted the customer about $4,500.
wow that is bad
That is way over priced
4500$!! That's crazy
Can you pressurized it and put the smoke that they use to troubleshoot EVAP systems in cars?
Can u do a video on superheat and subcooling, i know everyone tells people to only check subcooling, which if the system is installed properly the txv will hold the superheat to what it is suppose to be, but alot of the time it's not and superheat is usually way low.
Type in the search bar super heat and sub cooling taddy digest. I did a video
Great video!!! Thanks!!!
You're welcome thank you for watching
I'm having this same exact problem with my ac. Guy came out couple years ago and replaced the fan thing on the inside unit and said that would fix our problem. The system will not hold refrigerant. The line constantly freezes up. Definitely don't have $$ for a brand new system. Just need an honest trustworthy HVAC person to look at it and find the leak and tell me if it can be fixed. I'm in Virginia about 50 miles south of DC and 50 miles north of Richmond if you know of anyone in the area you can recommend.
You could try some leak Sealant, and u v dye define the leak.
Check out my video on leak sealant
Great video, my question is if the condenser is grounding out at start up and burning out the fuse do I need to replace the condenser
Not sure I would probably need more info
@@TaddyDigest I replace fuses in the electric box to the condenser turn on the system and it start sparking, I shut it off and I had the wiring check and check the fuses again and one of them was shorted out again. I'm not sure if the shortage is because the condenser needs to be replace or if there's something else I can do before replacing the condenser.
Great video! I feel like people are scheming us and we live in Florida and our AC unit broke 3 times in the last year and we got it new last year. Weird
It's hard to find Honest companies.
Now that's sad to hear. Sounds like a very bad install!
What does it mean when the copper tubing, the one inside by the unit is warm to the touch, even the copper outside?
nice job tad, what do youcharge for a leak survey?
also if a mouse works its way into the main blower squirrel cage it will sound like thunder in your duct work. simply remove and clear sailing.
Why did you pressurized it and put the smoke that they use to troubleshoot EVAP systems in cars?
I like you 🤝 i like the way explain..am a on hands Learner.but i really like this video thank you
Glad you liked it!
Great video. Thank for sharing your knowledge and skills. Im subscribed.
Hey Taddy, here in South Florida in a New Apartment with what seems to be a pretty new Freidrich Large Size AC Wall Unit. Within past 2 or 3 years. Doesn't seem to be an older Freon unit. Moved in about 2 months ago. AC runs pretty good and cold , but periodically I smell a Paint Thinner / Vinegar smell blowing out of the Air Conditioner. I contacted my landlord. In your opinion can this be repaired fairly easily by an HVAC Professional in Comparison to the larger Central AC Units you seem to be repairing. Your advise is greatly appreciated for the best advice I should be getting from a local HVAC professional.
Hey, Tad. I use the yellow jacket sniffer. But I also use the Superior Accu Track ultrasonic leak detector. You could have heard those mice fart before they died.
Very cool ronnie
I being hearing good things about the inferred leak detector
Dye is Best! Hands Down.
I have had hit or miss with Electronics. It often goes off (all brands) if its near water in the pan , My Inficon goes off in light wind, My field piece just goes off because field piece. lol I almost always have better luck with Nitro and visual with soap bubbles.
500 PSI! The most I ever use is 300 psi for R410A and 150 psi for R22.
why does it leak? why does the metal tube rupture? what is the cause? was it built with a leak?
It was not built with a leak. It's due to wear and tear corrosion.The elements
About to get the popcorn.
Wondering where this leak is!
500psiig...bro it will not break the system?
Very informative! Thanks!
That’s a good price compared to the estimate I got for a whole system!
Technician said had freon leak! On evaporator! $. Ouch! He put leak seal! Looked like a syringe. What are you thought on leak seal. After a month, failed to cool again!
Find the leak and fix it
What about the charred wires ?
is goodman heat pump GSZB404210A good for 2014 mobile home? in amarillo texas , r19 walls, r25 roof, r 30 floor, singal pan widows, 1216 sqft home. not air tight it has leaks. temps below 20 is like 8 days during heating seanson. i set termostat to 74 f and am using electric furnace 10 kwh for 108 hours a month. my electric rate is 0.097 kwh. the highest bill to have was 250 but that is from whole home usage. the goodman heat pump says it uses 2.9 kwh at 10 f with a COP of 2.08 and a 2.7 kwh with COP of 1.34 at -5 f. the price for the 5 ton a-coil and 3.5 heat pump is $4,876. i can get 30% off that price on rebate then it whould be $3,413.235 also, why whould tech go with mortex 5 ton a-coil and 3.5 heat pump. thanks for help.
Hey Tad. What's the 1 to 98 countdown when the wind free units shut off after cooling?
With the industry going through a major shift to A2L refrigerants starting in 2025, does it make sense to install a current system based on R-410A or wait until next year for A2L systems?
If you don't have to replace your system, now I would wait
I will figure it out and get back to you
how come you didn't use the leak detector device you showed?, you just went by the "sound" you hear?.
Three dead mice would be a great name for rock band.
My house just started smelling like cat urine and I don’t have a cat. Google says it could be a Freon leak. I put my nose up to the vent and the smell does seem to be stronger there. Have you encountered this before? I’m wondering if it’s even safe for me to be in my house if there is a leak.
Can I use shampoo as well? Thanks for sharing.
I'm not sure
At what point do you recommend replacing the condenser and evap coil vs just the evap?
Great info. Its a shame when you have guys add more freon and try to sell it to the customer knowing there is a leak. Smh
You only put the max on what the system tells you #tag . Especially if you putting nitro on the low side if low side says max250psi you put 250psi
there is no way to only put nitrogen in the low side unless you would disconnect the coil.
But yeah, the coil clearly states design pressure and R22 is very low pressure. I thought last one I saw was 150 on the R22 coil and 450 on 410a coil.
Great video very Informative And very easy for Me the weekend warrior to follow
Great to hear!
I bought a brand new construction home and closed Jan 2022. Yesterday the A/C company who installed the central air came last night at 7pm and BAM, The tech says there is a small Freon leak but couldn’t find it. So he charged me $144 for the service call and $188.50 for 2.5lbs of Freon. He told me his office will call me back.
Today they call me and she tells me it will cost me $257 for the leak check and probably more for Freon. So I’m like WTF!
STRADA installed all of this and now I am on the hook for this leak and the house is only 2 years old and they installed all of this! WOW.
that's a bummer 😕
Can an overcharging the system cause the TXV to get stuck closed?
Overcharging will definitely to stay closed
@@TaddyDigest Thanks for that, the tech told me that the TXV is bad and he need to install a new coil, the system is 3-year-old. I took an image of his 4 port manifold + Micron gauge where it showed the following, on the left side, a pressure of 96.3 Psig below it is 39.1 SH, and below it is 29.5 VSAT. On the right side it shows pressure of 278.8 Psig, 16.8 SC, and below it 90.7 LSAT. I would very much appreciate your thoughts on this
Yeah it looks Like there is too much liquid in The condenser And not Enough Liquid In the evaporator so definitely could be the filter dryer for the t x v
You have some good prices 😮
Just curious what your thoughts are on UV dye and leak checking that way
If its a heat pump you have high pressure on the indoor coil when its heating right?
yes
My unit froze up the lines are copper so I turned the unit off so it can thaw from the big ice block so would that problem be from having a leak in the system? Thanks in advance
Could be from leaking refrigerant.
Could be from a dirty filter.
Could be from low air flow.
Just use a process of elimination to figure out.
My man’s got a bow tie on his lip!
Great video !
Thanks!
You guys have so much tool to do the job i don't have a leak detector eater nitrogen no access to those when i am doing my small ac work back home i have to use air from compressor and bubble but still get my job done 👍
No advice 😞
When using compressed air, the air contains containments and moisture depending on location, I would draw a 24 or a triple vacuum, the air is primarily nitrogen any way.DO NOT USE A TANK COMPRESSOR unless it is drained clean.I think I'll try myself , think you!
Never use O2 (oxygen) inside refrigerant system unless you want a violent explosion and fire. O2 and refrigerant oils is a bad combination.
Ok thanks for telling me but that is the only way I check for leak with my job I don't have nitrogen
@@NytefogNJ O2 is highly corrosive to steel and iron parts if you have copper o2 leaves a petena on copper.
Where are you located? What state I guess I missed that.
I live in an apartment and they come fill it with Freon or whatever. Works great and lasts about 3 weeks then goes back to hot. After watching how hard it is to find I guarantee the maintenance crew is not going to do all that extra work. What should I do
If my condenser is 14 years old you think it’s better to just replace it?
just got a quote for r22 refrigerant at 3 lbs it was over $900 that sounds pretty steep
Dang that is so expensive
glad i held off especially when theirs apparently a severe leak
If you look around online you can buy 5lb cans of R-22 for $220. Of course if you have a severe leak don't bother on such an old system and get it upgraded.
Hi! Thank you for this very informative video. I’m your new subscriber. Can I ask you a question regarding our AC unit? We just bought a house and unfortunately the AC is not cooling the room. The AC Unit is manufactured in 2006 (very old). And it’s definitely leaking refrigerant. The technician that checked the unit suggested to add refrigerant and check for leaks 1 or 2 weeks after. Is that okay? Or should I insist to find the leak first?
I would really appreciate your advise. Thank you on everything that you do!
I would go ahead and let him add refrigerant because you need to know exactly how low it is
Sometimes, it's hard to find the leak unless the refrigerant is significantly low, so it's good to know how low the refrigerant is before you schedule a leak check
My company likes to use fluorescent trace dye for leak searches. And those require a return visit for Leah search after the dye has been circulating for a few weeks. Maybe that’s what the tech was referring to?
Great job Tadd!
Thank you my friend
I’m smelling like Nail Polish type smell while my unit is on! Everyone is having headaches, nausea dizziness diarrhea all of a sudden. Could we have a leak?
could be a leak or something on the coil definitely.Get it.Looked at maybe get it cleaned
safety first. safety meetings every 10 business days
How much does it cost to do the leak test at your home? For me they r charging 950 dollars plus tax just for the leak test with a dye.
How would you purge the nitrogen later?
not sure
@@TaddyDigest What? Didn't you complete the repair? I presume you had to evacuate the entire system, then refill.
Great quality content. Keep it coming!
More to come!
The cost of these has become ridiculous. Older people on a budgeted income can not afford it. I know people that just suffer instead. It's deplorable. There should be a better and easier plug and play replacement by now.
Hay Taddy, Got an unrelated Question, sorry to post on your video. I went to a Goodman PKG HP the other day with Compressor not starting. I could hear it trying like a dead CAP. Checked the CAP (70x5 duel) it was 4.7 on fan and 311 on Herm!! 311/5 wow. Cap was 1.5 yrs old. I replaced it and system began to run. Was pulling 15.5 amps at start then 10 minutes in I noticed it had risen to 18 then ten minutes latter it was near 20. The RLA is 26. I traced the wires and found nothing mis wired to the cap so I called it the Compressor and recommended the Comp. I did not find any strange readings when I did OHM the comp tho before I restarted with the new CAP. Have you seen this before? It is a new one on me.
Is it a 2 stage compressor was it going into high stage? And that's why it pulled more amps
Or is it just single speed
@@TaddyDigest Single speed
The capacitor can read higher but if you look at your meter its nano farads so its actually lower.
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