You may have discovered by now those fuel pressure regulators leak (even without mods), they're very common to be put on old classic Volkswagens so I remove them often, always leaking but before they start fires. I'm not even sure if they regulate properly because when they're on seems that the carburetor is still being over-pressured. I usually just opt for a proper fuel pump which is regulated to the correct PSI, or if the punp is a little too high, then put a T before the carb thet routes fuel back to tank... currently running that of my 1968 Volkswagen Fastback with dual carbs... which are not unlike our go karts LOL! For what its worth, in the hot Volkswagen engine compartment the T also bleeds off the excess pressure when its shut off, helps to reduce carburetor boil over from heat soaking. But that issue doesn't apply to go-karts though! Thanks for the videos, my dude!
@@WhatIsTheWheel Yup, it psuedo-simulates a gravity feed. There will be just a little back pressure on account of the line being so short and narrow, which is just about perfect!
And as far as the mounts that I found for those, typically it's just a C shaped bracket that wraps around the regulator with a hole on each end where the brass nipple screw in to support the regulator. Seems to work well enough... when the thing isn't leaking LOL! 😁👍🏻🦆💩
It's coming together and sounds awesome! That Torkzilla should be awesome too. I've seen FatBuddyCat use one of those and it makes me want one! You're right on about the Mikuni carbs and their clones not having the correct float level out of the box. First adjustment. I used a similar pressure regulator with a Mikuni on a pulling engine before. Best I remember it came with a little Z shaped metal mount that used two of the screws on the top, then I put a couple of sheet metal screws thru the blower housing for the bottom of the Z shaped mount. Great video!
Thanks, Once I get rid of all the rattles it should really sound good. Right now everything is tacked on because it will get stripped for paint. I ended up getting another pressure regulator, my mount idea may end up being to much of a hassle to stop leaking. Build Break Fix was saying these little carbs really only want about 1psi so the new regulator goes much lower.
To bleed off pressure from the fuel pump, Tee the output to the input but use a smaller ID line to make a restriction. The more restriction, the higher pump pressure at your chosen RPM. The poor man's regulator :)
Or.. you just remove 2 screws that hold it together. Get two long screws. Determine length for application. Put them in and tighten with a lock washer and a nut. Now you have two extended studs. Drill some holes and mount it. Or if you want it to "float"... Double nut it. Just a suggestion.
Believe it or not the stock driver will handle more power and rpms than the jug/torque zilla but it requires some mods first as the torque converters out of the box are setup for a stock governed engine and just changing the garter springs isn't enough to turn high rpms it requires changing from the zinc to aluminum weights using even heavier springs and a lockout bushing
Examining the aftermath, I figured it would need a spacer to stop the moveable sheave. I had switched to a heavier driven spring. and I had two sets of heavier/higher rpm garter springs to use, but had not switched to the weights. I would probably have continued to mess with it if the shell had not gotten so bent up. It was easier to just go with the Torq-Zilla, and it gives me a chance to try one out.
Comprimising the pressure chamber of the regulator is a bad idea. I would instead make a mount that used the existing seal/flange bolts and just use longer bolts.
That's good werk~ Did the pressure reg stand up to it's job of 3 lbs or what you set pressure to; ? MaX without R & R of main-jeT and it so what jet size ____? Thank you for the 411; in advance..Sincerely> °H°∆°R°D™ FLaTLaNDs oF KaNSaS
I ended up ditching the pressure regulator and using a return line to the tank in a T fitting at the carb. So the carb always has fuel at zero pressure. I would have to go through my notes for the jet size.
SMaRT MaN~ I ran into that same issue when I super Mod`ed the Honda GX390 Over fueled float went to a reg- figured out Return line back to fuel cell was the right answer to the problem.. YoU just might say I over THUNK -iT.. GriN:) GreaT Vids and >with On ToPiC 411 yes SiR~ °H°∆°R°D™ FLaTLanDs oF KaNSaS
I didn't watch the whole video, but just a word of caution: The numbers on the regulator are NOT PSI. They are just numbers from low to hi. So don't think that number 3 means it is regulating the fuel to 3 PSI. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and you'll see what I mean.
Some of it was for looks, both to have a clean look on the engine and to use a remote alloy tank. The tach is correct. It inducts the signal from the spark plug wire and is set to read every other signal(the coil fires on scavenge cycle too). I used them on commercial mowing equipment for years.
no no no.... the carb your using is not designed for a pump. float valve is made for 1psi fuel pressure. your pump is around 4psi. either need fuel flow regulator or a bypass. has zero to do with rpm. this is like a 20 year old issues that most don't ever seem to know. plus your using a pump for a 422cc engine lol. just drill a hole in a angle bracket so one fitting going into regulator through the hole.
These little carbs may have a lower pressure limit, but the bigger Mikunis are around 3psi for the float valve(Most carbs are 3-6psi). The tank is lower than the carb and this pump is used on karts with the tank mounted on the seat pan in front of the driver so I figured it would work. The rpms do make some difference as the pump pressure at 8000 rpm is higher than it is at 3000. I decided to try a different regulator with a gauge, that has a mount.
@@WhatIsTheWheel lol no such thing as a 6psi round slide carb for small engine. Smallest 4psi carb is a 32mm mikuni flat slide. What would I know though! Only raced and built gokart for last 20 years lol but hey! Come to longs sc! You can ride my 8 tracks all day on me!
Btw! Legit mikuni vm28 carb I just opened up. Page 2 3rd line"Do not use this carburetor with a pressurized fuel system. This carb is not to exceed a 21 inch down hill grade from fuel tank" pretty clear in mikuni papers come with the carb lol hey look this! 34mm one says it as well rofl...
@@BuildBreakFix I based the psi on the bigger carbs on motorcycles and the Holleys and Eldebrocks I have run. This carb came with no paperwork, although it does appear to be a real Mikuni South Carolina? Do you know a Donnie Stevens from NC? He used to race karts and grind custom cams in the late 80s
@@BuildBreakFix Part of this series is just trying stuff out. I show my failures because that is part of learning how to do things. A lot of UA-cam channels edit out the mistakes(like skateboard videos where they never miss a trick) but I want the people that watch to see the mistakes or when something doesn't work, watch me work through it, and know that is part of the process.
Wooohooo, listen to those revs!
You may have discovered by now those fuel pressure regulators leak (even without mods), they're very common to be put on old classic Volkswagens so I remove them often, always leaking but before they start fires. I'm not even sure if they regulate properly because when they're on seems that the carburetor is still being over-pressured. I usually just opt for a proper fuel pump which is regulated to the correct PSI, or if the punp is a little too high, then put a T before the carb thet routes fuel back to tank... currently running that of my 1968 Volkswagen Fastback with dual carbs... which are not unlike our go karts LOL! For what its worth, in the hot Volkswagen engine compartment the T also bleeds off the excess pressure when its shut off, helps to reduce carburetor boil over from heat soaking. But that issue doesn't apply to go-karts though! Thanks for the videos, my dude!
That is what I ended up doing, the T fitting with return was perfect, there is plenty of fuel at, basically, zero pressure.
@@WhatIsTheWheel Yup, it psuedo-simulates a gravity feed. There will be just a little back pressure on account of the line being so short and narrow, which is just about perfect!
And as far as the mounts that I found for those, typically it's just a C shaped bracket that wraps around the regulator with a hole on each end where the brass nipple screw in to support the regulator. Seems to work well enough... when the thing isn't leaking LOL! 😁👍🏻🦆💩
It's coming together and sounds awesome! That Torkzilla should be awesome too. I've seen FatBuddyCat use one of those and it makes me want one! You're right on about the Mikuni carbs and their clones not having the correct float level out of the box. First adjustment. I used a similar pressure regulator with a Mikuni on a pulling engine before. Best I remember it came with a little Z shaped metal mount that used two of the screws on the top, then I put a couple of sheet metal screws thru the blower housing for the bottom of the Z shaped mount. Great video!
Thanks, Once I get rid of all the rattles it should really sound good. Right now everything is tacked on because it will get stripped for paint. I ended up getting another pressure regulator, my mount idea may end up being to much of a hassle to stop leaking. Build Break Fix was saying these little carbs really only want about 1psi so the new regulator goes much lower.
To bleed off pressure from the fuel pump, Tee the output to the input but use a smaller ID line to make a restriction. The more restriction, the higher pump pressure at your chosen RPM. The poor man's regulator :)
Just get rid of the pulse pump and put a gas tank above engine a little with a fuel filter and shut of valve it would be alot easer ..
No where to put the tank higher (without making the kart look silly). I would have put a mount over the top of the seat to get it high enough.
Or.. you just remove 2 screws that hold it together. Get two long screws. Determine length for application. Put them in and tighten with a lock washer and a nut. Now you have two extended studs. Drill some holes and mount it. Or if you want it to "float"... Double nut it. Just a suggestion.
Cool video I really like messing with these engines yours sounds really good extremely responsive 👍🏻
Believe it or not the stock driver will handle more power and rpms than the jug/torque zilla but it requires some mods first as the torque converters out of the box are setup for a stock governed engine and just changing the garter springs isn't enough to turn high rpms it requires changing from the zinc to aluminum weights using even heavier springs and a lockout bushing
Examining the aftermath, I figured it would need a spacer to stop the moveable sheave. I had switched to a heavier driven spring. and I had two sets of heavier/higher rpm garter springs to use, but had not switched to the weights. I would probably have continued to mess with it if the shell had not gotten so bent up. It was easier to just go with the Torq-Zilla, and it gives me a chance to try one out.
Comprimising the pressure chamber of the regulator is a bad idea. I would instead make a mount that used the existing seal/flange bolts and just use longer bolts.
It's called a transfer punch that's what you need to do that job to get it center punched in the correct place for the bolts
Sounds pretty mean!
That fuel cap looked like it was going to come off! 23:07
The whole time I was editing this I was thinking I need to go back out there and tighten that cap up
That's good werk~
Did the pressure reg stand up to it's job of
3 lbs or what you set pressure to; ? MaX without R & R of main-jeT and it so what jet size ____?
Thank you for the 411; in advance..Sincerely> °H°∆°R°D™
FLaTLaNDs oF KaNSaS
I ended up ditching the pressure regulator and using a return line to the tank in a T fitting at the carb. So the carb always has fuel at zero pressure.
I would have to go through my notes for the jet size.
SMaRT MaN~ I ran into that same issue when I super Mod`ed the Honda GX390 Over fueled float went to a reg- figured out Return line back to fuel cell was the right answer to the problem.. YoU just might say I over
THUNK -iT.. GriN:) GreaT Vids and >with On ToPiC 411 yes SiR~ °H°∆°R°D™ FLaTLanDs oF KaNSaS
I didn't watch the whole video, but just a word of caution: The numbers on the regulator are NOT PSI. They are just numbers from low to hi. So don't think that number 3 means it is regulating the fuel to 3 PSI. Put a fuel pressure gauge on it and you'll see what I mean.
Ultra copper not recommended for use with gasoline
That certainly appears to be true :-)
Make a body for it please there is a UA-camr that sells designs for paper crafted cars that you can use then fiberglass it
This one won't get a body, but I am collecting parts for a cyclekart that will either end up with a single seat cooper or track T body.
Use genuine mikuni needle and seat
Can you link the belt you bought?
Here you go, this is the 30 series asymmetric
www.ombwarehouse.com/-9-7-belt-asymmetric.html
All that $ and effort to use a fuel pump! Why not use stock tank with risers and bigger fittings? I don't think tach is right
Some of it was for looks, both to have a clean look on the engine and to use a remote alloy tank. The tach is correct. It inducts the signal from the spark plug wire and is set to read every other signal(the coil fires on scavenge cycle too). I used them on commercial mowing equipment for years.
no no no.... the carb your using is not designed for a pump. float valve is made for 1psi fuel pressure. your pump is around 4psi. either need fuel flow regulator or a bypass. has zero to do with rpm. this is like a 20 year old issues that most don't ever seem to know. plus your using a pump for a 422cc engine lol. just drill a hole in a angle bracket so one fitting going into regulator through the hole.
These little carbs may have a lower pressure limit, but the bigger Mikunis are around 3psi for the float valve(Most carbs are 3-6psi). The tank is lower than the carb and this pump is used on karts with the tank mounted on the seat pan in front of the driver so I figured it would work. The rpms do make some difference as the pump pressure at 8000 rpm is higher than it is at 3000.
I decided to try a different regulator with a gauge, that has a mount.
@@WhatIsTheWheel lol no such thing as a 6psi round slide carb for small engine. Smallest 4psi carb is a 32mm mikuni flat slide. What would I know though! Only raced and built gokart for last 20 years lol but hey! Come to longs sc! You can ride my 8 tracks all day on me!
Btw! Legit mikuni vm28 carb I just opened up. Page 2 3rd line"Do not use this carburetor with a pressurized fuel system. This carb is not to exceed a 21 inch down hill grade from fuel tank" pretty clear in mikuni papers come with the carb lol hey look this! 34mm one says it as well rofl...
@@BuildBreakFix I based the psi on the bigger carbs on motorcycles and the Holleys and Eldebrocks I have run.
This carb came with no paperwork, although it does appear to be a real Mikuni
South Carolina? Do you know a Donnie Stevens from NC? He used to race karts and grind custom cams in the late 80s
@@BuildBreakFix Part of this series is just trying stuff out. I show my failures because that is part of learning how to do things. A lot of UA-cam channels edit out the mistakes(like skateboard videos where they never miss a trick) but I want the people that watch to see the mistakes or when something doesn't work, watch me work through it, and know that is part of the process.