The comment below is exactly why I decided to do this myself. I found your video first thing, like a divine appointment. I was looking for the type of compression clamp that you used, to find out which end spun out first. I paid a plumber $1,000.00 to run a new feed line to my house, and add a shut off valve at my lawn, because the water meter is about seventy-five yards down the street. I dug the hole at the leaking valve, and now, because of your video, I know which end to twist off to remove it. Very simple. Thank you so much.
Thanks so very much" a plumber wanted to charge me $300 to make a similar repair" I'm headed to the hardware store in the AM" to buy the parts" thanks again sir. May the BLESSING return to you 10 fold.
I have the same abs, pvc black supply line that’s a compression. House was built in 79 first time I’ve seen older homes not utilizing a copper supply I believe they heat up the brass valve and press it into the plastic to make that flare at the end but I could be wrong. My father in law just used the sharkbite black plastic water pipe connectors that twist lock and it works. This is a good repair for the outside for sure.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make the video. I was a "plumbers helper" in my youth, I've done many repairs, but the fitting at the meter, I didn't know what that was. Your video was very helpful!
Wow, this looks EXACTLY like my problem. I was going to use the barbs and clamps but think this looks way more secure. Stainless clamps, well, they are still steel. Brass is heavy duty and a wrench will do it, no heating and shoving the barbs in. My line came up from a foot deeper and probably got its kink at the wall when they backhoes the big piles of dirt in. Thank you very much for the video, really appreciated.
Those fittings are called pack joint fittings. As someone previously mentioned, these were made by A.Y. McDonald, Ford and Legend also make these type of fittings. They are the proper water service fittings to use with this type of pipe and when installed properly, are more durable than any other fitting.
Hi Chris, am I able to use those fittings on lead? Older home, copper after my meter but up through floor is lead. Any help would be appreciated. I have a leak at base of floor and was able to get the key on the street valve to shut it off, but I have a slight water flow still and before I open my floor to remove the bad section, I want to be sure that fitting will work on lead at my leak point, then I can go copper 3/4 to my meter fittings.
At 9:31 when you recommend using teflon tape on the Ford Pack Joint fitting threads, this was incorrect. Those are compression fittings, and the joint does not use the threads to seal. Using the tape makes a compression fitting seal worse, not better.
Many many Tanks for this excellent and informative video. I need to close off a plastic pipe and your vital tips have provided me with the answer. My problem is I did not use a metal insert to go into the plastic pipe in order to stabilise it when clamping it off. I feel such an idiot not having worked it out,on the other hand I'm not such an idiot anymore because your video has helped me fir which I am sincerely grateful and thankful to you. Best Wishes to you kind man.
Flughafenkaiser I didn’t use a metal insert!!! Dammit. I asked so many people. Even my trusted guy at Home Depot. It’s not leaking. Been 6 months. Any opinions on what I should do? I just shoved the poly pipe into the fitting. I guess it’s too late now.
FYI-The water pipe that serves the home is the service line, not the main line which is the pipe that distributes the water to the individual service lines.
In the old days they used to put the meter inside the dwelling. You only paid for water you used. If there was a leak on the outside you didn't pay. Now the meter is at the curb for this reason any water leakage on your property underground you'll paying for it as in your situation. BTW, people hear about poly or pex pricing versus copper and they think it's a no brainer why use copper it's extremely expensive. Well as you saw first hand, tubing is cheap but you're paying huge money on these special fittings. What's the point then use copper it's king. I always use copper. Thanks for the video.
So the piece that they said they dont sale is called a flare fitting . You will have to buy the fairing tool. But the ones you got are code aproved. Its called a CTS fitting. For me i would have cut the pipe back far as possible away from the house. I would have used a cts fitting, to 3/4k copper. Before running that i would have coredrilled a hole 1 inch ir 1.5 inches to insert a sleve by using pvc. Then uses hydralic cement and tar or some type of water repellent from out side ground water .Once you do that i would have soildered in a new 90. Installed a ball valve with a bleeder then instaled a PRV, with pressure gauge, then an additonal shut off valve to isolate prv for service or replacments . Then i would have bonded it to the electric panel box, Grounding your line for no electric shock. But for you not doing this for a living i would say job well done
good video...i have a broken water mains pipe too..it was caused by a failed connector joining a 15mm pipe to a 20mm pipe..i had to cut into my drive to remove a slab to trace the water main..
Nice video. Well done buddy. One thing that I notice though is that you need to make sure that you flush the pipe before connecting. This way no rocks or other debris gets in the house pipes.
You can buy a copper and a plastic flaring tool at most plumbing supply stores. The plastic flaring tool is much more expensive. I paid $30.00 for my 3/4”copper flaring tool and $120.00 for my plastic flaring tool.
I was took by a plumber for $500.00 to do this exact fix and we dug the hole and found the leak, all the plumber had to do was cut line and reconnect! Wish we could have seen this video and done it ourself! We would have Saved $450.00!
You did the right thing, you save $2000 dollars doing the hard work, it's best if a professional make the right connections using the rights tools rather than do the connections yourself and then don't have the piece of mind or wondering if you did it the proper or right way or maybe not.
Thanks for a great video. I'm having almost exactly the same problem, and your video give me a very good idea what parts to buy, now I just need to figure out where to buy those stuff.
barbed fittings work fine good for well over city water pressure long as you use the good stainless clamps once the plastic gets mashed into the barbs it will never come off
(3:14). You can reuse that fitting so easy. Get something a little bigger then the pipe. Warm the end of the plastic pipe, and push it against the end. It will make a flange.
My 20 year old fitting in the house let lose. What a mess. Mine didnt have the extra little clamp. The new one i bought had the little clamp. I shouldn't ever have to worry about mine slipping off again. If you have the old style i would replace it before its too late.
unions with the lock nuts aren’t desirable as they have been known to fail with that set up the little white washer and rubber flanged O-RING tend to not stand up they break apart and cause the fitting to leak by
No it won't prevent the problem. It's Poly pipe Not Plastic and installed over 30 years ago. Today the use of Poly is illegal in all States due to their known leakage problems. If you look closely the leak is outside the house, so that means the house is over 42 years old.
......Good Job... might have been a good time to have lost that 90 degree Elbow a.. and replaced same for a slow bend... as this would have given a greater and smoother flow through your system.... that just me i hate elbows....... [but then there would have been soldering and all sorts involved....] so maybe as the say... if it isn't broke why fix it.....
It did look like he used Teflon tape on the nuts of the union but that does nothing. Teflon tape is only effective on pipe (tapered) threads where is fills tiny gaps as the threads wedge together. Any fitting with straight threads such as a compression fitting does not rely on the fit of the threads to seal at all.
That l"little cheap" roll of teflon tape is a pain. I get more leaks using that than solder or glue combined. Please spend a couple bucks and get the Oaty or at least the yellow gas tape. You bought the best of everything else, why scrimp there? Nice job though, just hurting from my last cheap tape thread leak.
Wow, they used a torch or hot air gun to soften a Polyethylene pipe and they they flared the pipe, and then use a flare fitting and flare nut to connect that to the copper pipe. I didn't even know that was allowed. For polyethylene pipes you can use an insert fitting and 2 or 3 simple all-stainless steel hose clamps on the outside to fasten the PE to the insert fitting. That's what they use in cottage country. The problem with insert fittings is that they reduce the inside diameter of the pipe. So what the experts do is this: take a hot air gun, use it to heat up the PE pipe so it is nice and soft, then use some type of tool to EXPAND the soft PE pipe so a larger insert fitting can be inserted into the pipe. Then let the pipe cool down and once cool you add the hose clamps and tighten down. That works perfectly, and is a lot less likely to slip off than those compression fittings you bought at True Value. I use that technique to connect 1/2" PEX pipe to 3/4" PEX fittings when I don't want a reduction in flow at the fittings.
+Willilly Bab I ran into a problem with my water main. the shut off valve has one of those barb inserts in the hose and its rusting because someone used a metal to brass fitting. A warning to anyone who does this. Use brass on brass fittings and use the clamps with the barb insert into the plastic hose and put a metal clamp to hold. I will be filming this repair this week and also will show you how to shut off the water with a special tool up here in Ontario Canada.I would be concerned with that metal insert as it may react with the brass threads and rust then burst a leak.
I didn’t use a metal insert!!! Dammit. I asked so many people. Even my trusted guy at Home Depot. It’s not leaking. Been 6 months. Any opinions on what I should do? I just shoved the poly pipe into the fitting. I guess it’s too late now.
You'll be fine bud as long as you didnt crush the set screws down like this guy did in the video. They only need to be a little tight not crushed down.
A high percentage of the sales people at the orange and the blue box stores don't know jack s**t about what they are selling. They will tell you anything to get rid of you.
The liability has expired. There was Class Action suit a good 30 years ago, if weren't included then you're out of luck. And since then it's illegal to use for homes, other than irrigation.
If you have this cursed black poly pipe, use a *PVC Compression Coupling*. It's SIMPLE to use and very effective. However if you have this damn pipe, I'd look into replacing it. It's horrible.
If you have the insert you can tighten down all you want. Without the insert just really snug. The pipe won't bust on you, the whole point is to keep the pipe from going out of round. I fixed pipes 25 years ago with simple SS clamps and an inner tube and still holding today. That's also was a fast fix which we needed at that time, but never went back to reinstall another way because there was no need to.
You follow the water, the same as a slab leak within the house or pay a Leak Detector guy 250 to 350 bucks. When you find the exact location you will see the bubbles. That's how leak detector's work, running gas through the lines and watch for bubbles.
Navy apparently uses them but I assume more advance push-to-connects - Might have been originated by them. I just recently got rid of an old pipe that was under my crawlspace that then went under the foundation to the service line outside. There was a push-to-connect fitting that I'm guessing is over 10-15 years old. It wasn't leaking. I replaced the old leaky pipe and push-to-connect fitting with PEX-B pipe and a new push-to-connect fitting (Sharkbite). BUT this time the fitting was wrapped in silicone wrap (required) unlike the old one.
The comment below is exactly why I decided to do this myself. I found your video first thing, like a divine appointment. I was looking for the type of compression clamp that you used, to find out which end spun out first. I paid a plumber $1,000.00 to run a new feed line to my house, and add a shut off valve at my lawn, because the water meter is about seventy-five yards down the street. I dug the hole at the leaking valve, and now, because of your video, I know which end to twist off to remove it. Very simple. Thank you so much.
Thanks so very much" a plumber wanted to charge me $300 to make a similar repair" I'm headed to the hardware store in the AM" to buy the parts" thanks again sir. May the BLESSING return to you 10 fold.
I have the same abs, pvc black supply line that’s a compression. House was built in 79 first time I’ve seen older homes not utilizing a copper supply I believe they heat up the brass valve and press it into the plastic to make that flare at the end but I could be wrong. My father in law just used the sharkbite black plastic water pipe connectors that twist lock and it works. This is a good repair for the outside for sure.
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make the video. I was a "plumbers helper" in my youth, I've done many repairs, but the fitting at the meter, I didn't know what that was. Your video was very helpful!
Wow, this looks EXACTLY like my problem. I was going to use the barbs and clamps but think this looks way more secure. Stainless clamps, well, they are still steel. Brass is heavy duty and a wrench will do it, no heating and shoving the barbs in. My line came up from a foot deeper and probably got its kink at the wall when they backhoes the big piles of dirt in. Thank you very much for the video, really appreciated.
Thanks brother, this was very helpful....it's great that you put those verses at the end ....Praise God
Those fittings are called pack joint fittings. As someone previously mentioned, these were made by A.Y. McDonald, Ford and Legend also make these type of fittings. They are the proper water service fittings to use with this type of pipe and when installed properly, are more durable than any other fitting.
Sharkbite---- 20 bucks.... for 2 !!!! it works...
sharkbite relies on a seal that wears with time, it will then leak.
Hello, what determines if you use pack joint or just a quick joint ... ?
@@mariomarionetas4445 Pak Joints are used by water utilities, shark bites and couplers are not.
Hi Chris, am I able to use those fittings on lead? Older home, copper after my meter but up through floor is lead. Any help would be appreciated. I have a leak at base of floor and was able to get the key on the street valve to shut it off, but I have a slight water flow still and before I open my floor to remove the bad section, I want to be sure that fitting will work on lead at my leak point, then I can go copper 3/4 to my meter fittings.
At 9:31 when you recommend using teflon tape on the Ford Pack Joint fitting threads, this was incorrect. Those are compression fittings, and the joint does not use the threads to seal. Using the tape makes a compression fitting seal worse, not better.
Many many Tanks for this excellent and informative video. I need to close off a plastic pipe and your vital tips have provided me with the answer. My problem is I did not use a metal insert to go into the plastic pipe in order to stabilise it when clamping it off. I feel such an idiot not having worked it out,on the other hand I'm not such an idiot anymore because your video has helped me fir which I am sincerely grateful and thankful to you. Best Wishes to you kind man.
Flughafenkaiser I didn’t use a metal insert!!! Dammit. I asked so many people. Even my trusted guy at Home Depot. It’s not leaking. Been 6 months. Any opinions on what I should do? I just shoved the poly pipe into the fitting. I guess it’s too late now.
FYI-The water pipe that serves the home is the service line, not the main line which is the pipe that distributes the water to the individual service lines.
In the old days they used to put the meter inside the dwelling. You only paid for water you used. If there was a leak on the outside you didn't pay. Now the meter is at the curb for this reason any water leakage on your property underground you'll paying for it as in your situation. BTW, people hear about poly or pex pricing versus copper and they think it's a no brainer why use copper it's extremely expensive. Well as you saw first hand, tubing is cheap but you're paying huge money on these special fittings. What's the point then use copper it's king. I always use copper. Thanks for the video.
These fittings are used on copper too lol.
for someone muddling through. you did a good job..
So the piece that they said they dont sale is called a flare fitting . You will have to buy the fairing tool. But the ones you got are code aproved. Its called a CTS fitting. For me i would have cut the pipe back far as possible away from the house. I would have used a cts fitting, to 3/4k copper. Before running that i would have coredrilled a hole 1 inch ir 1.5 inches to insert a sleve by using pvc. Then uses hydralic cement and tar or some type of water repellent from out side ground water .Once you do that i would have soildered in a new 90. Installed a ball valve with a bleeder then instaled a PRV, with pressure gauge, then an additonal shut off valve to isolate prv for service or replacments . Then i would have bonded it to the electric panel box, Grounding your line for no electric shock. But for you not doing this for a living i would say job well done
Pack joint couplings are what we always used.
good video...i have a broken water mains pipe too..it was caused by a failed connector joining a 15mm pipe to a 20mm pipe..i had to cut into my drive to remove a slab to trace the water main..
Nice video. Well done buddy. One thing that I notice though is that you need to make sure that you flush the pipe before connecting. This way no rocks or other debris gets in the house pipes.
You flush the exterior Bib/Hose connection outside the house before using house water.
The barb fittings do work very good when connecting poly to poly. But I used this same things when connecting from copper to poly at the main.
You can buy a copper and a plastic flaring tool at most plumbing supply stores. The plastic flaring tool is much more expensive. I paid $30.00 for my 3/4”copper flaring tool and $120.00 for my plastic flaring tool.
I was took by a plumber for $500.00 to do this exact fix and we dug the hole and found the leak, all the plumber had to do was cut line and reconnect! Wish we could have seen this video and done it ourself! We would have Saved $450.00!
no , u would save 200$ and you would WORK for 8 hrs,, so relaxs,,,
You did the right thing, you save $2000 dollars doing the hard work, it's best if a professional make the right connections using the rights tools rather than do the connections yourself and then don't have the piece of mind or wondering if you did it the proper or right way or maybe not.
Thanks for a great video. I'm having almost exactly the same problem, and your video give me a very good idea what parts to buy, now I just need to figure out where to buy those stuff.
Hayes pipe supply
We aà as àaq
barbed fittings work fine good for well over city water pressure long as you use the good stainless clamps once the plastic gets mashed into the barbs it will never come off
(3:14). You can reuse that fitting so easy. Get something a little bigger then the pipe. Warm the end of the plastic pipe, and push it against the end. It will make a flange.
Awesome video! Thanks for posting as it helped out tremendously!
Thanks for sharing. You did a great job on this video. It really did help.
My 20 year old fitting in the house let lose. What a mess. Mine didnt have the extra little clamp. The new one i bought had the little clamp. I shouldn't ever have to worry about mine slipping off again. If you have the old style i would replace it before its too late.
I have the copper flare tool that they said wasn't used anymore
Internal couplers work well. The hose may be rated for 200psi but that's not operating psi for a well.
unions with the lock nuts aren’t desirable as they have been known to fail with that set up the little white washer and rubber flanged O-RING tend to not stand up they break apart and cause the fitting to leak by
I think you mean polyethylene, not polyurethane
A.Y. McDonald is the manufacturer of those fittings.
Mcplumbing ? Lol
So much better than paying $1000
Looks like what I need thank you!
Will that fitting work on lead main coming into house before meter?
Some states require copper pipe thru the foundation to 10' outside and then connect to the plastic. This will prevent the issue you had.
No it won't prevent the problem. It's Poly pipe Not Plastic and installed over 30 years ago. Today the use of Poly is illegal in all States due to their known leakage problems. If you look closely the leak is outside the house, so that means the house is over 42 years old.
If on well water like me, hard water is an assassin to copper. Just saying for benefit of well water users.
......Good Job... might have been a good time to have lost that 90 degree Elbow a.. and replaced same for a slow bend... as this would have given a greater and smoother flow through your system.... that just me i hate elbows....... [but then there would have been soldering and all sorts involved....] so maybe as the say... if it isn't broke why fix it.....
At least 4 wraps of the Teflon tape should be sufficient. Great video!
It did look like he used Teflon tape on the nuts of the union but that does nothing. Teflon tape is only effective on pipe (tapered) threads where is fills tiny gaps as the threads wedge together. Any fitting with straight threads such as a compression fitting does not rely on the fit of the threads to seal at all.
That l"little cheap" roll of teflon tape is a pain. I get more leaks using that than solder or glue combined. Please spend a couple bucks and get the Oaty or at least the yellow gas tape. You bought the best of everything else, why scrimp there?
Nice job though, just hurting from my last cheap tape thread leak.
Can't use solder or glue on this.
What type of concrete powder did you use to seal up the foundation hole?
Wow, they used a torch or hot air gun to soften a Polyethylene pipe and they they flared the pipe, and then use a flare fitting and flare nut to connect that to the copper pipe. I didn't even know that was allowed. For polyethylene pipes you can use an insert fitting and 2 or 3 simple all-stainless steel hose clamps on the outside to fasten the PE to the insert fitting. That's what they use in cottage country. The problem with insert fittings is that they reduce the inside diameter of the pipe. So what the experts do is this: take a hot air gun, use it to heat up the PE pipe so it is nice and soft, then use some type of tool to EXPAND the soft PE pipe so a larger insert fitting can be inserted into the pipe. Then let the pipe cool down and once cool you add the hose clamps and tighten down. That works perfectly, and is a lot less likely to slip off than those compression fittings you bought at True Value. I use that technique to connect 1/2" PEX pipe to 3/4" PEX fittings when I don't want a reduction in flow at the fittings.
+Willilly Bab I ran into a problem with my water main. the shut off valve has one of those barb inserts in the hose and its rusting because someone used a metal to brass fitting. A warning to anyone who does this. Use brass on brass fittings and use the clamps with the barb insert into the plastic hose and put a metal clamp to hold. I will be filming this repair this week and also will show you how to shut off the water with a special tool up here in Ontario Canada.I would be concerned with that metal insert as it may react with the brass threads and rust then burst a leak.
Good job
Did Home Depot have the fittings?
Thank you
Excellent, thanks!
I didn’t use a metal insert!!! Dammit. I asked so many people. Even my trusted guy at Home Depot. It’s not leaking. Been 6 months. Any opinions on what I should do? I just shoved the poly pipe into the fitting. I guess it’s too late now.
You'll be fine bud as long as you didnt crush the set screws down like this guy did in the video. They only need to be a little tight not crushed down.
A high percentage of the sales people at the orange and the blue box stores don't know jack s**t about what they are selling. They will tell you anything to get rid of you.
what that black pipe calls and what size is thx
Just curious if anybody can give the name of those fittings....Brand and style????
Agree, thatd be helpfull when i go to true value local.
Look like Ford Meter fittings. Also made by others.
Were you able to hold the builder or previous owner liable for the bill overages?
The liability has expired. There was Class Action suit a good 30 years ago, if weren't included then you're out of luck. And since then it's illegal to use for homes, other than irrigation.
Guess you can’t use the line as an electric ground anymore
If you have this cursed black poly pipe, use a *PVC Compression Coupling*. It's SIMPLE to use and very effective. However if you have this damn pipe, I'd look into replacing it. It's horrible.
Will it last buried? Is it approved to be exposed to dirt n etc. Thanks
On poly pipe How tight did you tighten screw on a fitting sitting over poly pipe and also main nut on a coupling between pipes? Thanks.
If you have the insert you can tighten down all you want. Without the insert just really snug. The pipe won't bust on you, the whole point is to keep the pipe from going out of round. I fixed pipes 25 years ago with simple SS clamps and an inner tube and still holding today. That's also was a fast fix which we needed at that time, but never went back to reinstall another way because there was no need to.
you sound like The Duke sir!
Hate to tell you this but everything on your side of the meter belongs to you, not the city.
Thanks
David Termini boo
How deep did you digged
Kitchen clean up pipe line
What’s the fitting called?
Mac-Pak
Thanks man!
What are the fittings called?
Pack-Joint Fittings with Stiffener
@@sigbn Very helpful! Thanks!
I have the same problem, but how can I know where the location of the leakage is ? with excavating my whole front yard .
You follow the water, the same as a slab leak within the house or pay a Leak Detector guy 250 to 350 bucks. When you find the exact location you will see the bubbles. That's how leak detector's work, running gas through the lines and watch for bubbles.
couldnt you have just used the snappon or shark fit joints
click411 i dont trust them for preasure personally
The Shark fittings may blow on you. Don't trust them.
No recommended for direct burial and don't trust it.
Navy apparently uses them but I assume more advance push-to-connects - Might have been originated by them. I just recently got rid of an old pipe that was under my crawlspace that then went under the foundation to the service line outside. There was a push-to-connect fitting that I'm guessing is over 10-15 years old. It wasn't leaking. I replaced the old leaky pipe and push-to-connect fitting with PEX-B pipe and a new push-to-connect fitting (Sharkbite). BUT this time the fitting was wrapped in silicone wrap (required) unlike the old one.
How much coffee did you drink before making this video?
What is the point of this comment?
Can I use sharkbite
Not on black pipe
Outer diameter of black pipe to large. You cannot insert the black pipe into the shark bite. Been there tried that ! Lol
Why did we need to know the cost of all the parts? Your going to get them if they cost two or three times that.
like
Please shout out me
Just my opinion, but, I think your vid. was a little long winded for me. But at least you tried. Thanks anyway.