Great Video - i'm sure it will instill confidence in anyone thinking about such a project. One very important subject which could probably use more details is the subject of sizing. You correctly state you installed 1-1/2 inch PE tubing, which is not the same as 1-1/2 PE pipe. Both use the OD as control for sizing, however the sizes are different. PE tubing uses CTS (Copper Tube Size) whereas PE Pipe conforms to the IPS (Iron Pipe sizing) standard. The difference is enough to spoil your day. 1-1/2 inch PE Tubing has an Outside Diameter (OD) of 1.625 inches whereas PE Pipe has an OD of 1.900 inches. If you're installing a complete system it doesn't matter much as long as you match your fitting to your pipe/tubing. If you are repairing or splicing a faulty line, this is where you need to pay attention. Check the Brass for the appropriate marking CTS (as in your case) or PEP or PEP/PVC for IPS (PE Pipe). Again, thanks for a very informative video.
Best video on this stuff out there. Very detailed and informative. Nice to have help from friends and family! It's great to see your daughter learning skills and what a bonus to free you up to do other things. The brass Ford fittings seem a lot better than barbed with hose clamps. More money but probably worth it. Thanks for this. Downloaded for future reference, liked, and subbed.
Glad it was helpful. We also have a more recent 2 part video where I extended that main water line that might also be useful to you. Thanks for watching and subbing. ua-cam.com/video/rbf6QQ5EslE/v-deo.html
There is a wide metallic tape the identifies what utility you are about to hit that you should use instead of nr. 14. It tears easily. The 14 will pull from either side leaving unidentifiable ends. You should also have at least a six inch lift of dirt over the pipe before you put the tape down. The hope is that you will see that tape before you hit the pipe.
Where did you buy all of these fittings? Big stores, like Home Depot do not have them. Please send a link or company name. I can't find it anywhere, including Amazon.
No criticism here. Very helpful for the people that are interested in doing it their self. 2 things that I do are to put the ball valve where the handle is pointing towards the flow direction when open. That’s just an easy way to know which direction to turn handle to turn on. The other small thing I do is turn the spool of thread tape where it is feeding off the top of the roll and it will allow you to keep it tight and only unroll what is needed. Just things I have learned to do so it is a little easier for me. Thanks for the videos
@ 11:58 is how I dug out my trench last weekend. Where was Makayla when I needed her?....Also I noticed no tree roots in your dig spot - smart. Thanks for the well made video, good luck and good fortune to you and your family.)
I could be wrong but is the tracer wire color coded like green for sewer water an red for power an yellow for gas blue for water orange for communication purple for reclaim water just wandering
Thoughts on how that hydrant was inside a black irrigation box? I feel like that is a nice way to be able to install a shut off at the hydrant in an emergency from a cracked hydrant. Or is the black box just not practical?
Wait, if the main line coming in is already reduced to 3/4”, what is going up to 1” going to do for you? Aren’t you still limited by the 3/4”? Very helpful video for learning to make some CTS connections! I need to find those brass valves & fittings.
Actually every foot of pipe or hose that you push water through has friction loss, the water in the center moves faster than the water against the inside of the pipe which creates turbulence and friction, if he used 3/4 inch pipe for the whole run a pressure gauge at the end of the run will read the same pressure as the feed into the property when NO water is flowing, but as soon as you start flowing that pressure at gage at the other end will will drop dramatically which will be the total amount of friction loss in the line. That is why you use a larger diameter pipe for most of the run, as you increase the diameter it dramatically lowers the friction loss so you can have good pressure all the way at the end when flowing water. I learned this in my career as a Fire Captain in a major East Coast City Fire Department.
For some reason voggers feel the need to add a music track to their videos causing more work during the editing stage. It’s Anne’s they’re not aware that we viewers would rather not listen to it and actually find it quite annoying. Dude, save yourself the trouble and spare us from the torture, skip the dang noise pollution! Great video otherwise. 👍
@@chellegraham6985 Today I picked up 2 500 foot rolls of 2" HDPE from Ewing Irrigation at 7100 I-35, Georgetown, TX 78626. You can call them and ask for phil. Here is the info from their site. 2 SDR-11 4710 HDPE PIPE IPS SKU#: 82310200 MFG#: 2 SDR-11
One of the best looking videos on the subject but the noise you have added for some reason keeps me from being able to hear the explanation being offered. I sue wish it was just talking and that the stupid noise, (music or whatever it is) was left out. Thanks for trying.
I am not really sure the color matters. It is polyethylene pipe and is meant for this underground application as a water supply line and is supposed to last for 50-100 years. I am able to run hundreds of feet underground without having any fittings or joints that could potentially fail. I am not a plumber by trade, but all the materials I used were recommended by a plumber and were purchased at a professional plumbing supply store.
PVC leaches more toxic chemicals into your water. Is more brittle and has glued joints which also add toxic chemicals to your water and provide more chances for pipe failure. PVC will work, however thick walled PE pipe is the better choice. It’s more cost but you can get the pipe with foam insulation on it already on the roll and it will provide not only insulation but also abrasion resistance underground.
HDPE and PEX are better options for potable water versus CPVC. PVC is best for drains, vents, and using as a sleeve for other pipes and wires. CPVC can be used for potable water, but has a shorter lifespan than HDPE and PEX. Both PVC and CPVC are brittle and will burst if frozen, and have greater potential to leak chemicals into the water. Do some Googling, and you'll find lots of plumbers and builders are using HDPE and PEX, while CPVC is falling out of fashion. Any new install today should use HDPE or PEX. HDPE is less flexible but more durable in comparison to PEX, so best to use HDPE underground, and then switch to PEX inside the building. Commercial installations often run HDPE from underground and continue into the building, as there can be larger demands than residential applications.
Great Video - i'm sure it will instill confidence in anyone thinking about such a project. One very important subject which could probably use more details is the subject of sizing. You correctly state you installed 1-1/2 inch PE tubing, which is not the same as 1-1/2 PE pipe. Both use the OD as control for sizing, however the sizes are different. PE tubing uses CTS (Copper Tube Size) whereas PE Pipe conforms to the IPS (Iron Pipe sizing) standard. The difference is enough to spoil your day. 1-1/2 inch PE Tubing has an Outside Diameter (OD) of 1.625 inches whereas PE Pipe has an OD of 1.900 inches. If you're installing a complete system it doesn't matter much as long as you match your fitting to your pipe/tubing. If you are repairing or splicing a faulty line, this is where you need to pay attention. Check the Brass for the appropriate marking CTS (as in your case) or PEP or PEP/PVC for IPS (PE Pipe). Again, thanks for a very informative video.
Best video on this stuff out there. Very detailed and informative. Nice to have help from friends and family! It's great to see your daughter learning skills and what a bonus to free you up to do other things. The brass Ford fittings seem a lot better than barbed with hose clamps. More money but probably worth it. Thanks for this. Downloaded for future reference, liked, and subbed.
Glad it was helpful. We also have a more recent 2 part video where I extended that main water line that might also be useful to you. Thanks for watching and subbing. ua-cam.com/video/rbf6QQ5EslE/v-deo.html
There is a wide metallic tape the identifies what utility you are about to hit that you should use instead of nr. 14. It tears easily. The 14 will pull from either side leaving unidentifiable ends. You should also have at least a six inch lift of dirt over the pipe before you put the tape down. The hope is that you will see that tape before you hit the pipe.
Where did you buy all of these fittings? Big stores, like Home Depot do not have them. Please send a link or company name. I can't find it anywhere, including Amazon.
Check with a dedicated plumbing supply company like F.W. Webb. Search for "plumbing supply house."
No criticism here. Very helpful for the people that are interested in doing it their self. 2 things that I do are to put the ball valve where the handle is pointing towards the flow direction when open. That’s just an easy way to know which direction to turn handle to turn on. The other small thing I do is turn the spool of thread tape where it is feeding off the top of the roll and it will allow you to keep it tight and only unroll what is needed. Just things I have learned to do so it is a little easier for me. Thanks for the videos
@ 11:58 is how I dug out my trench last weekend. Where was Makayla when I needed her?....Also I noticed no tree roots in your dig spot - smart. Thanks for the well made video, good luck and good fortune to you and your family.)
I could be wrong but is the tracer wire color coded like green for sewer water an red for power an yellow for gas blue for water orange for communication purple for reclaim water just wandering
I don’t know why, but ford says it will void warranty if you use pipe wrench with teeth. Great choice with poly, only way to go. Overall great job.
Great info we are just starting our homestead and want to do the same for our water, where did you get your brass fittings at? Thanks
Thoughts on how that hydrant was inside a black irrigation box? I feel like that is a nice way to be able to install a shut off at the hydrant in an emergency from a cracked hydrant. Or is the black box just not practical?
Nice. Thanks bud
Great info! I have about 530 feet from the meter to the house. Is the 1' 1/2" size pipe enough? Did you wish you did 2" pipe?
Question; Could that valve handle rust, is it made from brass or aluminum, or chrome plated steel?
Wait, if the main line coming in is already reduced to 3/4”, what is going up to 1” going to do for you? Aren’t you still limited by the 3/4”? Very helpful video for learning to make some CTS connections! I need to find those brass valves & fittings.
Actually every foot of pipe or hose that you push water through has friction loss, the water in the center moves faster than the water against the inside of the pipe which creates turbulence and friction, if he used 3/4 inch pipe for the whole run a pressure gauge at the end of the run will read the same pressure as the feed into the property when NO water is flowing, but as soon as you start flowing that pressure at gage at the other end will will drop dramatically which will be the total amount of friction loss in the line. That is why you use a larger diameter pipe for most of the run, as you increase the diameter it dramatically lowers the friction loss so you can have good pressure all the way at the end when flowing water. I learned this in my career as a Fire Captain in a major East Coast City Fire Department.
Where did we buy these compression connectors like coupling or T connectors
Why did you use brass fittings as opposed to plastic fittings?
Excellent video, it will help me a lot but that music, was it really necessary? It's way too loud
For some reason voggers feel the need to add a music track to their videos causing more work during the editing stage. It’s Anne’s they’re not aware that we viewers would rather not listen to it and actually find it quite annoying. Dude, save yourself the trouble and spare us from the torture, skip the dang noise pollution! Great video otherwise. 👍
Dinosaur like!!!!
Use pennies instead of tracer wire. Much cheaper
where did you get your pipe?
Can you provide the name of the plumbing supply business you purchased your brass from. I have 2" poly pipe that I need the same setup for. Thanks
Where did you get the 2" polyethylene pipe? I'm looking for 2" x 500'...any ideas? I'm in northeast Texas and cant find a supplier that has that
@@chellegraham6985 Today I picked up 2 500 foot rolls of 2" HDPE from Ewing Irrigation at 7100 I-35, Georgetown, TX 78626. You can call them and ask for phil. Here is the info from their site. 2 SDR-11 4710 HDPE PIPE IPS
SKU#: 82310200
MFG#: 2 SDR-11
OMG..thank you so much...that is awesome...you're the best..
@@chellegraham6985 Try a company called Stuart Pipe and Hose. They have offices in most of the big cities in Texas. Great company to do business with.
Wouldn’t renting a trencher be faster and quicker?
One of the best looking videos on the subject but the noise you have added for some reason keeps me from being able to hear the explanation being offered. I sue wish it was just talking and that the stupid noise, (music or whatever it is) was left out. Thanks for trying.
burning man music does not fit the series
You people live lush and large not paying any income taxes
Music is to loud.
Not very deep i installed mine from well 5 feet deep
Why so deep? Our frost line is 1 foot, are u in a cold cold area?
Way too loud I missed a lot of the speech because of it
Why would you use that black pipe. Every ONE here use PVC.. Black will leak after a few years...
I am not really sure the color matters. It is polyethylene pipe and is meant for this underground application as a water supply line and is supposed to last for 50-100 years. I am able to run hundreds of feet underground without having any fittings or joints that could potentially fail. I am not a plumber by trade, but all the materials I used were recommended by a plumber and were purchased at a professional plumbing supply store.
PVC leaches more toxic chemicals into your water. Is more brittle and has glued joints which also add toxic chemicals to your water and provide more chances for pipe failure. PVC will work, however thick walled PE pipe is the better choice.
It’s more cost but you can get the pipe with foam insulation on it already on the roll and it will provide not only insulation but also abrasion resistance underground.
Black poly is superior to pvc. If your having leaks your installing it incorrectly
HDPE and PEX are better options for potable water versus CPVC. PVC is best for drains, vents, and using as a sleeve for other pipes and wires. CPVC can be used for potable water, but has a shorter lifespan than HDPE and PEX. Both PVC and CPVC are brittle and will burst if frozen, and have greater potential to leak chemicals into the water. Do some Googling, and you'll find lots of plumbers and builders are using HDPE and PEX, while CPVC is falling out of fashion. Any new install today should use HDPE or PEX. HDPE is less flexible but more durable in comparison to PEX, so best to use HDPE underground, and then switch to PEX inside the building. Commercial installations often run HDPE from underground and continue into the building, as there can be larger demands than residential applications.
Just did a 200ft Pex B line 1" with a rental trencher, old copper line was trashed. Cost me 1500 bucks , Plumbers wanted 30k WTF @@MadGunner