93 suburban k1500 wont idle~~~read description~~~~
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- Опубліковано 5 лис 2024
- ive replaced my IAC, TPS, Rotor button, plugs and wires, coolant temp sensor fuel pump and fuel filter. obd1 is throwing a code 45 heated o2 sensor lean and a map sensor low VAC and she wont idle until it reaches operating temp
Fuel delivery problem...
Sounds like timming n check return fuel lines. Turn timming up n change tbi gasket-s
Did you reset it after you put all them new parts on and I didn't hear anything about a new map sensor and a fuel filter and then check timing and see what it is doing but disengage their computer from advancing it before you check it
Then check intake manifold for any leaks
I cleaned out my iac valve and after cleaning it, it strted to do the same thing, only diffrence is that after the 3rd crank it Will stay on.
N valve adjustment is real good fore no idle n what ever
If it was a bent fuel line why would it run ok after it warms up . Don’t make since
Do a compression test and if it's too high.. yes high, then it is carboned up and will run like crap until it warms up. Don't waste your time & money on quick fixes. The only cure is to pull the heads and clean them up, piston tops too. Same thing on my 94 tbi 350.
Hell yea that's smart bro 💯
I am having the same predicament with my 94 suburban I researched a The ECM will have the symptoms of stalling and not wanting to run. What did you learn about what the problem was? Did you ever solve the issue???
And the tbi can be bad the rod that runs the butter flys. Mine was
Throttle position sensor
Metalhealth12 was u able to rev it without it falling on its face
Hay there got a question for y'all I have a 93 Chevy c 1500 4.3 v6 that is doing that same thing I'd replaced everything that's bad and check my fuel lines and fuel pump there good but still doing same thing any thoughts
Check fuel pressure at the fuel filter, temperature sensor on the side of the block(driver-side). Oil sending unit on the rear under the distributor, crankshaft sensor,knock sensor, ignition control module, coil, egr/egr selonoid. Wires for corrosion, line's (tubes for breakage or air leaks....so many things....
ecm getting bad tack input
Just get a new throttle body RockAuto I did the same thing I searched and that's where the less expensive throttle bodies are I . Think they are reconditioned with all internal parts are new I paid for V6 GMC that's the cheapest I seen out there good luck.
Did u fix?
It actually was crinkled up right at the fuel sending unit. A fuel psi test revealed 8psi at the tb, so i dropped the tank thinking my Pump was bad. It infact, was not. somehow the sending line got bent.
Throw all the parts lmao
Did you ever get it figured out? I'm having the same problem
It turned out that the fuel sending line had a small kink in it, only allowing a small amount of fuel to actually get to the engine, enough to make it run, but not enough to sustain any power.
@@metalhealth12 hey, real late comment here, same issue as well, almost considered switching to carb, where exactly was it kinked at? under the belly or just behind the motor or do you mean the line on the fuel pump in the tank?
@@emperorlust7590 It actually was crinkled up right at the fuel sending unit. A fuel psi test revealed 8psi at the tb, so i dropped the tank thinking my Pump was bad. It infact, was not. somehow the sending line got bent.
@@metalhealth12 thanks man i'll have to check mine out now, yeah I've replaced just about everything imaginable until finally I decided to do some youtubing, all the chevy forums and nearby shadetree mechanics had never seen or heard of my problem before, good to finally know it's not just me
@@emperorlust7590 did you fix your truck? I got a 94 suburban Silverado edition TBI and a very low idle changed everything except the EGR O2 sensor and fuel pump and distributed rod I'm getting a rebuilt TBI so I hope it fixes the problem