I believe after you soldered that controller it's still telling you to check trailer because you're trying to activate the trailer Brakes when there is no trailer attached to the truck. Awesome fix. You save a lot of us backyard mechanics a lot of time and money. Thank you very very much for sharing your knowledge.👍
The only thing is you want a really good iron for soldering circuit boards. One with really tight temp control. Because if the temp is allowed to swing to high it will actually destroy the board. So again spending a little more money on a good soldering station is to your benefit.
I highly recommend a small bottle of liquid soldering flux. One drop on that joint would have made a big difference when trying to melt the old joint. Solder flux paste would work too, but it leaves a mess. Great repair - you saved the customer a lot of money!
Great vid, shows not all parts need replaced, many can be repaired. Also, I have found most manufactures, not just auto, are using lead free solder, which is far more brittle and requires higher heat to melt. most repairs involve adding leaded solder to help wick away the old solder so normal solder can be re-applied for a more permanent fix. Also, using flux helps in this process, I use the paste in a syringe. Just ensure to clean used flux off with isopropyl alcohol before reassembly. I also do some musical instrument gear and tube amplifier repair, this is a common problem, especially with PC mounted controls or jacks. Thanks Ivan.
The normal useful life of most OEM auto parts withstand a lot of abuse. You just need someone who is willing to dissect, diagnose and repair "surgically adjust" overlooked manufacturing defects. Thank you Ivan for showing how its done.
My same era F 150 instrument cluster became intermittent some time back. Found it was common due to faulty solder on the cluster. Removed and hit every joint - it's been fine for years now. I suspect that may have been the era when factories were switching to no-lead solder which didn't hold up. No dealer would have done what you did. Great work. Thanks.
Another interesting post. To add to the comment below, He is correct that there was a time all PCB mfg were switching to lead free in the late 90ies to early 2Ks but the mill spec mfg had cold solder problems so they went back to leaded solder. Commercial mfg stayed with lead free and no clean flux. I ran shops for two companies and we also went back to lead. We sold to aerospace and the military. My son had been running SMT machines for 10 years now and its all lead solder. Also you can not always see cold solder with the naked eye. You need a good hoop or better yet a microscope. Any graining must be reflowed. The surface should be smooth and have a shine to it. Thanks and keep them coming.
I'm pretty sure the Ford dealership would have just replaced the box for $150 labor and $250 for the box. It's good to see a true repairman rather than a parts swapper.
FYI, all manufactured circuit boards have lead free solder that is brittle and has a high melting temperature. Mix with a bit of flux core leaded solder to lower melting point when repairing cracked joints or when replacing parts. New joint won’t be as crack sensitive.
Ivan, also in the T100 you can purchase different types of solder tips that are more useful for larger solder joints. That fine tip is OK for PCB's, but this big lead you just did was struggling to flow correctly. There are a lot of options for other tips. You need a small chisel tip and a medium slant tip. Use the hex wrench to change tips out.
I love the "wedge" shaped tips. they are a good universal tip. I've never liked pointy round tips unless I have to solder fine traces on a PCB, just tougher to get heat through the small tip.
I agree Ivan, the internet is an invaluable resource, and that includes you. Yesterday I took a Honda Civic in for yearly inspection. It passed inspection and I drove it home, handed it off to the wife and she went off to work. A few minutes later I get a phone call, "Brake lights will not turn off". It just passed inspection 2 hrs earlier. I go to her work and verify the problem. I google it, there is a plastic button on the brake pedal that actuates the brake switch. Pieces of that plastic button are lying on the drivers floorboard. I run over to ACE, get a pan head 8 x 1/2 sheet screw, glue that into the hole left by the plastic button and off we go.... edit for spelling..
Well done Ivan! We're all learning these techniques as we go along, at least until epoxy coated microboards make even that impossible. Having watched many board repairs on the 'net, flux applied before makes a huge difference even when reflowing. Then wipe the flux off off with isopropyl alcohol. After watching a few, I bought flux that comes in a syringe to more carefully apply it.
Ivan. I really enjoy watching your video's I have learned quite a bit from your diagnostic skills and test equipment. I just wish that All Data wasn't so expensive for us DIY repair mechanics.
Great job! I don't think many diagnosticians would even try a repair like that. The Interscreen can certainly be an important tool for info and for parts....
Sure gave that customer a lucky brake (break)! Ba-Dum-Bum... Seems like just about anything with a pcb is prone to these types of failures thanks to lead free solder. Great repair, Ivan!
As an electronics tech one tip to find intermittent solder joints that can't be seen, heat/cold to localize. Possibly heat gun to begin, cold spray. Then a more local form of heat, possibly solder iron tip applied safely to suspect area, cold spray, should bring you to the bad solder joint.
I've always wanted to know the answer to this. I worked at an excavating company years ago and all the trucks did this it was super annoying. It would randomly send full power to the trailer brakes unexpectedly and lock the tires up if unloaded or about end you through the windshield if it was loaded. Thanks for the closure.
Hey Ivan the reason it says check trailer, as there's nothing attached to the tow truck that's why it is showing that. But great video! NPR FIXES is great. I need to do mine. Couple bad joints i think. Awesome video Ivan!
You did say you were going to start doing some component repair, Ivan. I have a 2005 F-350 and Excursion both with those trailer brake controllers. I know now where to get them repaired. I was told at one time that those controllers were made by Teckonsha; I don't know if that is true or not. If that is an F-550, it has that 6.0 liter diesel engine. Your neighbor loves them? I have had EVERY problem known to man with mine. Great video!
I had a 2005 F-250 SuperCrew 6.0, with the factory TBC failed. A new unit was almost $500 from the dealer and several weeks out. I installed an aftermarket unit externally with adapter cabling to the OEM harness, about $120 total but got it fixed same day on the trip. Just had to live with the permanent TBC message on the dash cluster.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I have no doubt ... the gain adjustment had also failed in my case. Using the manual control or brake pedal, the trailer brakes were super grabby (felt like the trailer was trying to hard stop the truck - glad the trailer was a 5th wheel). I wish the truck was still around to check, but I replaced it several years ago.
Hard disc drives have those very small torx screws. And they are frequently jammed in tight. The bit is so small that any significant torque twists the bit and it's ruined. I was puzzling over a couple of stuck screws when it occurred to me what does EricO and Ivan do with stuck bolts. Heat! So I got out my fireplace butane lighter(cigarette lighter with a long stem) and I put that little flame on the screws. Of course they didn't get cherry red like Eric's torch does. But they definitely got very warm. Then I applied my torx driver again and darn if those bits didn't just come right out and my torx bit was saved.
Skred driver bits ha ha , you hit my funny bone resonance, hard to stop the chuckles :-D Well done on the dust box repair. It needs it's own air filter lol.
Did you check the trailer plug? Corrosion and debris inside them is common in these plugs to give these issues and codes. Just letting you know for when the fault comes back.
you need a test plug with incadescent bulbs (led's wont work right not enough load) or just a working trailer. i made one for cheap with just 194 bulbs. trailer plugs going green will kill those and the trailer lighting module module.
Great vid as usual, maybe you can do short video on using that soldering pen, I bought one a few weeks ago and I can't get it to heat up, I don't know if I'm doing something wrong. Thanks.
Great fix Ivan, you must have got some tips from Super Mario like I did for circuit repair, he has a sweet set up for circuit board and key repair. You were bettervof fixing the trailer box as it is probably on intergalactic back order from ford.
Hello. I have TBC Fault light and the Trailer Break Controller has no lights. Nothing is illuminated on the controller. I took the the controller out and looked at the solder joints. They look good to me. Any recommendation? thanks!
As some mentioned , if you had a trailer there to test with, that would have been good. Wondering if there's a way to get rid of the OEM and put a redarc or teconsha in there instead?
Being a work vehicle aftermarket would probably fail like oem just because of the constant use.On recreational vehicles if the oem broke then aftermarket would most likely be cheaper.
I got a 2010 Ford focus withe same code B1342-20 I get it scan at two different repair shop first one say the ABS Module need to be replaced cost $1400 second one say the ECU need to be replaced $1500 they both saying two different things what to do?
They aren't using enough component staking, the pc boards are too thin and the switches and rheostats aren't " heavy duty". Everything the manufacturers do to save money and speed up production hurts these modules..the lower lead content solder isn't bad..50 years ago we had bad solder joints too
Thanks. But that check trailer means that it’s not plugged into a trailer. If you don’t have a trailer connected you will get that message when you push the gain slider. You could have said that and I missed it.
Ivan. Howdo youstore all your data on the thinktool pros. I bought oneafter watching your videos. thanks Mark. Still going to get with you on my 06 410k MILE VW TDI
Great fix! I don't want to be "that guy" and nitpick you, but I would've used a shop vac instead of sandblasting the outside and pcb inside with a blow gun.
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Not Bad! I think it is more like National Poop-aganda Radio the last few years. Keep the dad jokes coming. BTW your soldering job was super quick, and better coverage than the original manufacturing! I bet this part now would outlast a new replacement. Maybe NPR should stand for Nicer Parts Russian!
If I had Ivan as a neighbor I would be driving the crustiest old beaters I could buy.. Toyota pickup with a zillion miles for $1200 SOLD. I am not worried I have Ivan :)
This is an example of the 'cheapness' of manufacturers that use the lowest skilled labor in the manual assembly process, as they are paid the least, all to save maybe 5 cents per item. (I am a certified NASA, JAN level solderer). Today's Lead free solder (mostly only Tin) does not 'wet' the joints without the proper flux.
I would have thought this board would be wave soldered? The joints look very consistent. I think it's just leadfree rot. I blame the EU for forcing the entire industry to move to a less reliable technology, this board doesn't look like a cheapo slave labor soldering job. Whenever I see those, half the joints look like a starving cow and the other half have 3x as much solder as required.
It's never something simple. Can't be. Only the firing of the parts cannon can fix it. Tire low on air? Can't be. Has to ve something wrong with the tire, wheel, valve stem, valve stem core, valve stem cap, lug nuts, hub cap, center cap, wheel cover, wheel weights, tpms sensor, tpms sensor battery but definitely not air. Adding air will not fix a tire that lost .5 psi after the ambient temperature dropped. Gonna need all four new tires, wheels, bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, hardware, spindle, knuckle, ball joints, control arms, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, sway bars, load sensing proportioning valves, brake lines, master cylinder, vacuum booster and a little tree air freshener. If you add air you're fired and you will never work in this town again for insulting the intelligence of the typical dealership fan boy lackie with $40,000 in tool truck debt.
You're one of the very few who are not only willing but able to take something apart find the fault and repair it, great fix
I believe after you soldered that controller it's still telling you to check trailer because you're trying to activate the trailer Brakes when there is no trailer attached to the truck. Awesome fix. You save a lot of us backyard mechanics a lot of time and money. Thank you very very much for sharing your knowledge.👍
You are correct. The company I work for has one and if you don’t have a trailer hooked up, it will chime and say no trailer connected.
The only thing is you want a really good iron for soldering circuit boards. One with really tight temp control. Because if the temp is allowed to swing to high it will actually destroy the board. So again spending a little more money on a good soldering station is to your benefit.
I highly recommend a small bottle of liquid soldering flux. One drop on that joint would have made a big difference when trying to melt the old joint. Solder flux paste would work too, but it leaves a mess. Great repair - you saved the customer a lot of money!
Thanks. I didn't think of that refinement.
Yes, this! Will make it easier and more effective
2006? Truck looks great! Testament to the care shown by the owner
Great vid, shows not all parts need replaced, many can be repaired. Also, I have found most manufactures, not just auto, are using lead free solder, which is far more brittle and requires higher heat to melt. most repairs involve adding leaded solder to help wick away the old solder so normal solder can be re-applied for a more permanent fix. Also, using flux helps in this process, I use the paste in a syringe. Just ensure to clean used flux off with isopropyl alcohol before reassembly. I also do some musical instrument gear and tube amplifier repair, this is a common problem, especially with PC mounted controls or jacks. Thanks Ivan.
Good advice, R.Weaver!
Thanks for the advice. Your idea of cleaning with rubbing alcohol is also a good idea for repair. Do you put it on a dry rag then clean the area?
@@dogsplantscarsneatstuff176 No, I just dip a cotton swab in alcohol sparingly, not enough of it to run off everywhere.
@@r.weaver3769 thanks
@@namvet-l8m Just use electrical parts cleaner dries quickly & cleans the whole board (spray can about $15).
The normal useful life of most OEM auto parts withstand a lot of abuse. You just need someone who is willing to dissect, diagnose and repair "surgically adjust" overlooked manufacturing defects. Thank you Ivan for showing how its done.
My same era F 150 instrument cluster became intermittent some time back. Found it was common due to faulty solder on the cluster. Removed and hit every joint - it's been fine for years now. I suspect that may have been the era when factories were switching to no-lead solder which didn't hold up.
No dealer would have done what you did. Great work. Thanks.
Another good NPR repair. My only suggestion would be reflow all of the solder joints associated with that switch.
Another interesting post. To add to the comment below, He is correct that there was a time all PCB mfg were switching to lead free in the late 90ies to early 2Ks but the mill spec mfg had cold solder problems so they went back to leaded solder. Commercial mfg stayed with lead free and no clean flux. I ran shops for two companies and we also went back to lead. We sold to aerospace and the military. My son had been running SMT machines for 10 years now and its all lead solder.
Also you can not always see cold solder with the naked eye. You need a good hoop or better yet a microscope. Any graining must be reflowed. The surface should be smooth and have a shine to it.
Thanks and keep them coming.
Good job Thumbs up from Finland as well (from all over 5,5 million people who lives here).
I'm pretty sure the Ford dealership would have just replaced the box for $150 labor and $250 for the box. It's good to see a true repairman rather than a parts swapper.
FYI, all manufactured circuit boards have lead free solder that is brittle and has a high melting temperature. Mix with a bit of flux core leaded solder to lower melting point when repairing cracked joints or when replacing parts. New joint won’t be as crack sensitive.
Ivan, also in the T100 you can purchase different types of solder tips that are more useful for larger solder joints. That fine tip is OK for PCB's, but this big lead you just did was struggling to flow correctly. There are a lot of options for other tips. You need a small chisel tip and a medium slant tip. Use the hex wrench to change tips out.
Thanks. I just have a digital Weller. You prompted me to get a few more tips for different applications.
I love the "wedge" shaped tips. they are a good universal tip. I've never liked pointy round tips unless I have to solder fine traces on a PCB, just tougher to get heat through the small tip.
I agree Ivan, the internet is an invaluable resource, and that includes you.
Yesterday I took a Honda Civic in for yearly inspection. It passed inspection and I drove it home, handed it off to the wife and she went off to work. A few minutes later I get a phone call, "Brake lights will not turn off". It just passed inspection 2 hrs earlier. I go to her work and verify the problem. I google it, there is a plastic button on the brake pedal that actuates the brake switch. Pieces of that plastic button are lying on the drivers floorboard. I run over to ACE, get a pan head 8 x 1/2 sheet screw, glue that into the hole left by the plastic button and off we go....
edit for spelling..
Well done Ivan! We're all learning these techniques as we go along, at least until epoxy coated microboards make even that impossible. Having watched many board repairs on the 'net, flux applied before makes a huge difference even when reflowing. Then wipe the flux off off with isopropyl alcohol. After watching a few, I bought flux that comes in a syringe to more carefully apply it.
Ivan. I really enjoy watching your video's I have learned quite a bit from your diagnostic skills and test equipment. I just wish that All Data wasn't so expensive for us DIY repair mechanics.
Nice repair Ivan. FIxing the old part is probably better than buying a new, potentially problematic part.
Great job! I don't think many diagnosticians would even try a repair like that. The Interscreen can certainly be an important tool for info and for parts....
Sure gave that customer a lucky brake (break)! Ba-Dum-Bum... Seems like just about anything with a pcb is prone to these types of failures thanks to lead free solder. Great repair, Ivan!
Nice video and fix. It didn’t even require bonus footage. 😂😂
Great quickie! Always good when a module can be easily repaired. I guess you need a trailer attached to take that message away. Good Job!
Planned obsolescence foiled again by Ivan! Most excellent!
As an electronics tech one tip to find intermittent solder joints that can't be seen, heat/cold to localize. Possibly heat gun to begin, cold spray. Then a more local form of heat, possibly solder iron tip applied safely to suspect area, cold spray, should bring you to the bad solder joint.
I've always wanted to know the answer to this. I worked at an excavating company years ago and all the trucks did this it was super annoying. It would randomly send full power to the trailer brakes unexpectedly and lock the tires up if unloaded or about end you through the windshield if it was loaded. Thanks for the closure.
Lucky customer to have Ivan reside close by. Good as money in the bank !!
#6 ....
Holy cow ! That's a lot of driver bits !
Nice work Ivan, and I’m sure another happy client.👍👍🇺🇸
Great fix Ivan. A lot of vibrations in that truck since 2006.
i like these kind of repairs.... and yes knowledge is power!!
Hey Ivan the reason it says check trailer, as there's nothing attached to the tow truck that's why it is showing that. But great video! NPR FIXES is great. I need to do mine. Couple bad joints i think. Awesome video Ivan!
You did say you were going to start doing some component repair, Ivan. I have a 2005 F-350 and Excursion both with those trailer brake controllers. I know now where to get them repaired. I was told at one time that those controllers were made by Teckonsha; I don't know if that is true or not. If that is an F-550, it has that 6.0 liter diesel engine. Your neighbor loves them? I have had EVERY problem known to man with mine. Great video!
Nice job, great repair, keep it up man.
I had a 2005 F-250 SuperCrew 6.0, with the factory TBC failed. A new unit was almost $500 from the dealer and several weeks out. I installed an aftermarket unit externally with adapter cabling to the OEM harness, about $120 total but got it fixed same day on the trip. Just had to live with the permanent TBC message on the dash cluster.
I bet it was the same issue as this one 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I have no doubt ... the gain adjustment had also failed in my case. Using the manual control or brake pedal, the trailer brakes were super grabby (felt like the trailer was trying to hard stop the truck - glad the trailer was a 5th wheel). I wish the truck was still around to check, but I replaced it several years ago.
Got a similar box of tiny bits & driver handle also has plastic guitar pic shaped plastic case openers was $ 20 aud. great for computers.Cheers.
World's best neighbor
Can't complain about that diag & repair - an easy job for a change!
Love NPR fixes. I will email you my Kentucky Derby picks. I am interested in what Amanda and her Mom thinks. Stay well my friend.
Hard disc drives have those very small torx screws. And they are frequently jammed in tight. The bit is so small that any significant torque twists the bit and it's ruined. I was puzzling over a couple of stuck screws when it occurred to me what does EricO and Ivan do with stuck bolts. Heat! So I got out my fireplace butane lighter(cigarette lighter with a long stem) and I put that little flame on the screws. Of course they didn't get cherry red like Eric's torch does. But they definitely got very warm. Then I applied my torx driver again and darn if those bits didn't just come right out and my torx bit was saved.
Skred driver bits ha ha , you hit my funny bone resonance, hard to stop the chuckles :-D
Well done on the dust box repair.
It needs it's own air filter lol.
Did you check the trailer plug? Corrosion and debris inside them is common in these plugs to give these issues and codes. Just letting you know for when the fault comes back.
Happy customers
Equals tons of cash 😁
Great video 👍👍👍👍
Lotsa bits in that scredriver set.😊
you need a test plug with incadescent bulbs (led's wont work right not enough load) or just a working trailer. i made one for cheap with just 194 bulbs. trailer plugs going green will kill those and the trailer lighting module module.
NICE FIX, YOU'RE NOT KIDDING " KNOWLEDGE IS POWER ".
for best results you need to replace the OEM lead free solder with leaded solder.
Great vid as usual, maybe you can do short video on using that soldering pen, I bought one a few weeks ago and I can't get it to heat up, I don't know if I'm doing something wrong. Thanks.
Great find and fix Ivan
When equipment is placed near a heat source that get hot and cold will play with solder joints overtime and going down rough dirt roads
Thanks Ivan!
Great fix Ivan, you must have got some tips from Super Mario like I did for circuit repair, he has a sweet set up for circuit board and key repair. You were bettervof fixing the trailer box as it is probably on intergalactic back order from ford.
Hello. I have TBC Fault light and the Trailer Break Controller has no lights. Nothing is illuminated on the controller. I took the the controller out and looked at the solder joints. They look good to me. Any recommendation? thanks!
It never hurts to have at least a basic electronics background.
As some mentioned , if you had a trailer there to test with, that would have been good.
Wondering if there's a way to get rid of the OEM and put a redarc or teconsha in there instead?
Being a work vehicle aftermarket would probably fail like oem just because of the constant use.On recreational vehicles if the oem broke then aftermarket would most likely be cheaper.
Would you please post what the red diagnostic scanner is that we see you using all the time in your videos?
I post the link in EVERY description 😅👍
Ivan the ck engine light was on? Thxs nice repair......
The check engine light will be on if the truck isn’t running
Can a faulty TBC cause fuses to blow when connecting a trailer.
I got a 2010 Ford focus withe same code B1342-20 I get it scan at two different repair shop first one say the ABS Module need to be replaced cost $1400 second one say the ECU need to be replaced $1500 they both saying two different things what to do?
What's with Fords and cracked solder joints is it because of the use of lead free solder? Anyone know. T.I.A.
They aren't using enough component staking, the pc boards are too thin and the switches and rheostats aren't " heavy duty". Everything the manufacturers do to save money and speed up production hurts these modules..the lower lead content solder isn't bad..50 years ago we had bad solder joints too
Had one of those capacitors vented out? looked like a hole in the top of one.
No bulging. Given the amount of dirt in there, it is probably just dirt?
Ivan fires the silver bullet!
Bullseye lol!
Thanks. But that check trailer means that it’s not plugged into a trailer. If you don’t have a trailer connected you will get that message when you push the gain slider. You could have said that and I missed it.
You need a full up dual soldering station with a stereo microscope. Two irons so you can lift an 0603 SMT resistor.
Ivan. Howdo youstore all your data on the thinktool pros. I bought oneafter watching your videos. thanks Mark. Still going to get with you on my 06 410k MILE VW TDI
Awwwwww ... No bonus footage 😢
What scan tool is the best bang for the buck for Chrysler vehicles ?
The same red one that I use in ALL of my videos 😉
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics So Thinkcar ? I have seen you use many scanners over the years so I didn't know which you would recommend. Thank you !
Our pin didn't look disconnected, but soldered anyway. Alarm gone!
Does Tekonsha make thise OEM brake controllers?
Where can I buy that box that came with all different torque bits
See description 👍
What scanner is that?
"No parts fix"
Ford: But It's more profitable to just sell you another truck. 😌
That fix is worth at least two hundred if not more ..
Knowledge is potential power.
Billionaire college dropouts, not teachers, prove it.
I want a truck like that just to drive around and look boss.
It sounds manly 😎
Awesome thanks
Great fix!
I don't want to be "that guy" and nitpick you, but I would've used a shop vac instead of sandblasting the outside and pcb inside with a blow gun.
Shop Vac would be absolutely useless for this application 😅
I think there's a ghost in the box. It even has a data PID called BOO.
nice easy job
By the amount of dust you blew out , the buttons are probably dirty... de-oxite
I was about to suggest that. Should be the first thing to try ..clean the buttons, sliders and connecting tabs.
owner owes you a 12 pack
Genius.
ivan your are up so early! Have a nice morning!
Can you repair National Public Radio (NPR)? I think it is beyond repair. Pardon the dad joke.
LOL it's National Propaganda Radio these days 🤣
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics Not Bad! I think it is more like National Poop-aganda Radio the last few years. Keep the dad jokes coming. BTW your soldering job was super quick, and better coverage than the original manufacturing! I bet this part now would outlast a new replacement. Maybe NPR should stand for Nicer Parts Russian!
If I had Ivan as a neighbor I would be driving the crustiest old beaters I could buy.. Toyota pickup with a zillion miles for $1200 SOLD. I am not worried I have Ivan :)
454 Chet Forge
That's the brakes 😂😂😂
626 German Shoals
👍
My screws didn't come out that nice one even snapped( sad face and that's where I sit now)
My truck was fine when I parked it... Go to start it today and it starts then stalls with this same error... lol.
884 Frami Skyway
So, he runs a construction business and wants the cheapest fix possible..huh? Not sure i would want to hire him :)
Solder fix likely takes care of it until the truck dies. The $800 new one (parts&labor) will crack a solder joint again.
478 Pat Passage
Other Techs trail behind Ivan because he’s the NPR King…..but he’s always willing to assist and give others a brake when needed…..😂😂😂
55735 MacGyver Squares
Dust in the controller is better than saltwater. Just ask Freddy and Sam.
9967 Abshire Points
Please use flux, pls.
This is an example of the 'cheapness' of manufacturers that use the lowest skilled labor in the manual assembly process, as they are paid the least, all to save maybe 5 cents per item. (I am a certified NASA, JAN level solderer). Today's Lead free solder (mostly only Tin) does not 'wet' the joints without the proper flux.
I would have thought this board would be wave soldered? The joints look very consistent. I think it's just leadfree rot. I blame the EU for forcing the entire industry to move to a less reliable technology, this board doesn't look like a cheapo slave labor soldering job. Whenever I see those, half the joints look like a starving cow and the other half have 3x as much solder as required.
Great repair Ivan
#2
It's never something simple. Can't be. Only the firing of the parts cannon can fix it. Tire low on air? Can't be. Has to ve something wrong with the tire, wheel, valve stem, valve stem core, valve stem cap, lug nuts, hub cap, center cap, wheel cover, wheel weights, tpms sensor, tpms sensor battery but definitely not air. Adding air will not fix a tire that lost .5 psi after the ambient temperature dropped. Gonna need all four new tires, wheels, bearings, rotors, pads, calipers, hoses, hardware, spindle, knuckle, ball joints, control arms, sway bar links, sway bar bushings, sway bars, load sensing proportioning valves, brake lines, master cylinder, vacuum booster and a little tree air freshener. If you add air you're fired and you will never work in this town again for insulting the intelligence of the typical dealership fan boy lackie with $40,000 in tool truck debt.