It sounds like fuel vaporisation to me, back in the day the petrol line was run close to the exhaust to keep the fuel warm, you don't need that today so I would re route that away, also check the carb bowl when it stops, if empty prob is vaporisation so cool it down and try again , I had this problem years ago, if you PM me i'll send some pics of my set up. Good luck, don't give up.
Fuel vaporisation on Ford sidevalves occurs in the fuel pump. First item: the exhaust clamp. Rotate it 90 degrees. There can be a slight blow through the gap going straight on to the pump and heating the fuel inside. If the problem persists, owners have had a lot of success by fabricating a heat shield to go above and behind the exhaust manifold / down pipe. The pump is very close to these and can be a heat sink from them.
The immediate answer is to pour or spray cold water on to the pump, being careful to keep it away from the exhaust manifold. This takes the heat out of the pump and the fuel inside, causing it to condense again allowing the pump to deliver the fuel to the carburettor.@@Daves_classics
@@LMS2968 better would be to use a damp chamois leather, the cold water could shock the casing and cause it to crack. I had fuel vapourisation problems on my Austin 7 - even when it was not that hot - my problem was as a result of a silicone gasket between the crankcase and the block - crankcase was at the tipping point of getting too hot - think about it, in cooking, baking sheets are made from silicone - reverted back to paper gasket problem resolved. It only needs a fraction of a degree for the fuel to vapourise. Pumping the priming lever would indicate if vapourisation was an issue. I wondered if there was a vacuum leak, when it stops, have you tried re-starting with choke - if it fired up, then the mixture is too weak and there is a vacuum leak somewhere. How infuriating, but you will get there, or will have sold the car! Good luck!
@@austinswallow The casing doesn't get that hot, it's near the manifold but not in contact and the temperature fall doesn't need to be much. Personally, I would be very careful if your going to shove your hand down there that close to the very hot exhaust manifold, but hundreds of Ford sidevalve owners have been pouring cold water on the pump over many years without any problems.
Sorry to see/hear your problems. My parents bought a new Ford Popular in 1958/59 and though it was gutless, we did travel the 12 hour journey up to Aberdeen and back again without a muff, so there must be a correct set up that someone is aware of?. I'm surprised that yours is a 1954 Popular as I thought that, in 1954, they were Anglias and then rebadged as a Popular in the late 50s?. Have you found any of the Ford Pop car clubs any use in helping you? Best regards.
Someone has previously cut that petrol pipe short perhaps to fix a leak then wrapped it up in something to stop vapor lock . Take the wrapping off and check damage for air leak . Ultimately replace it
It sounds like fuel vaporisation to me, back in the day the petrol line was run close to the exhaust to keep the fuel warm, you don't need that today so I would re route that away, also check the carb bowl when it stops, if empty prob is vaporisation so cool it down and try again , I had this problem years ago, if you PM me i'll send some pics of my set up. Good luck, don't give up.
Thank you. My email address is
Fewbob4firbob@gmail.com
If you could email the setup that would be great
Fuel vaporisation on Ford sidevalves occurs in the fuel pump. First item: the exhaust clamp. Rotate it 90 degrees. There can be a slight blow through the gap going straight on to the pump and heating the fuel inside. If the problem persists, owners have had a lot of success by fabricating a heat shield to go above and behind the exhaust manifold / down pipe. The pump is very close to these and can be a heat sink from them.
Thank you, I,ll give it a try.
The immediate answer is to pour or spray cold water on to the pump, being careful to keep it away from the exhaust manifold. This takes the heat out of the pump and the fuel inside, causing it to condense again allowing the pump to deliver the fuel to the carburettor.@@Daves_classics
@@LMS2968 better would be to use a damp chamois leather, the cold water could shock the casing and cause it to crack. I had fuel vapourisation problems on my Austin 7 - even when it was not that hot - my problem was as a result of a silicone gasket between the crankcase and the block - crankcase was at the tipping point of getting too hot - think about it, in cooking, baking sheets are made from silicone - reverted back to paper gasket problem resolved. It only needs a fraction of a degree for the fuel to vapourise. Pumping the priming lever would indicate if vapourisation was an issue.
I wondered if there was a vacuum leak, when it stops, have you tried re-starting with choke - if it fired up, then the mixture is too weak and there is a vacuum leak somewhere.
How infuriating, but you will get there, or will have sold the car! Good luck!
@@austinswallow The casing doesn't get that hot, it's near the manifold but not in contact and the temperature fall doesn't need to be much. Personally, I would be very careful if your going to shove your hand down there that close to the very hot exhaust manifold, but hundreds of Ford sidevalve owners have been pouring cold water on the pump over many years without any problems.
Sorry to see/hear your problems. My parents bought a new Ford Popular in 1958/59 and though it was gutless, we did travel the 12 hour journey up to Aberdeen and back again without a muff, so there must be a correct set up that someone is aware of?. I'm surprised that yours is a 1954 Popular as I thought that, in 1954, they were Anglias and then rebadged as a Popular in the late 50s?. Have you found any of the Ford Pop car clubs any use in helping you? Best regards.
Thank you for your reply.
Someone has previously cut that petrol pipe short perhaps to fix a leak then wrapped it up in something to stop vapor lock . Take the wrapping off and check damage for air leak . Ultimately replace it
Good luck
Thanks 😊